In this video I show how to test the crankcase pressures for N55 2012 X5 and compare a known good to a known bad, and see how they match up to manufacture spec.
Great video and sadly most of us can't afford Snap-on anything, but at least we have a idea of what happening. Like the old way testing pressure leaks and hand on oil cap showing high pressures. 😅
great video, its always nice to see some explain how this system works. but unfortunately this SNAPON tool is expensive.... can i use a regular old vacuum carburator style with a old BMW N55 oil cap with a tight fitting installed in the cap. ty
👍🏿 good video I have this problem now. This will be my third time doing this job two different valve covers two different problems. I’m just gonna go to Bmw and get the valve cover the FCP Euro Valve cover is just not working out🤦🏿
Yes , it's always best to try on going with factory unit at first if budget allows, due to the complexity of the repair. I hope you get yours running right soon, thank you for watching.
Quick question , is the intake pipe near the turbo collecting oil ? Blow by oil ? I have a 2015 BMW 435 I , I resealed the oil filter housing , oil line o ring gaskets , upper radiator hose , thermostat to cylinder head coolant hose , and when I shot a light down the intake leading to the turbo , there is a small collection of oil , I’m no expert , but no oil should be where air is getting sucked in , according to some , this could be oil being pushed back through the engine and condensing in the intake ? My guess is I have a bad PCV witch I think it’s stuck open or closed , it’s not a lot of oil maybe a teaspoon outside the port in the intake pipe ,, so instead of ordering a 700 dollar head gasket , I need to verify with certainty I have a bad head gasket , clues , oil seepage all around the front pullys , oil filter housing , alternator , covered in layers of oil ,, I’m not taking a chance on the serp belt I’m changing out everything all seals ,, my question is can a vac test using a affordable vac tester ? Also if I get crazy numbers ,, way off the mark ,.should I change the valve cover myself ? Or take it in ? I’ve done a few in the last , I have the service manual on torq procedures ,, but damn they are pricey , your thoughts ? Any thing will help .
I would start by stating that it is not unusual to see that amount of oil in the pipes. It's part of the fact that the recirculation system is a sealed system and oil vapors in the crankcase pressure recirculated will turn into oil droplets and eventually pool up. I have not seen a head gasket randomly just fail and fail to leak oil on the N55/N20's. The N52 would leak oil in that front area from the head gasket but due to backed out or broken small head bolts. If you think you are having pressure related problems, these bmw's are very good at throwing trouble codes for it. Again on the N55/N20 it is very common to leak oil from the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, oil cooler seal (bolted to the filter housing) , all of these are up high places that will leak downwards onto those items you mentioned. The other one that leaks in the front area is the front main seal. Replacing the valve cover yourself can be challenging and time consuming, you will be dealing with taking apart the high pressure fuel system components.
correct, it means that the rubber diaphragm in the crankcase vent valve has ruptured and now you are tying intake manifold vacuum to the crankcase, that is why you would feel suction when trying to lift the oil cap which means you have to replace the crankcase vent valve
@@DTEAuto thank you 🙏 I’ll replace mines this week. I recall when I when first replaced my valve cover years, I removed the oil cap while the car was idling and right away the engine start to stumble and stall out. Currently right now I lift the cap and notice suction and the rpms rev up and settle…. Doesn’t try to stall out….. based from your experience could this cause all the spark plugs to have carbon build up and bad gas mileage?
I currently went through a oil housing leak and engine gasket leak all fixed now, brand new ECU been replaced too ,but the only issue I’m having is an air leak and the garage can’t seem to find it they checked every single part did smoke test too , this happens everytime I connect the mass air flow sensor the car misfires and mixture too lean and once I disconnect it the car runs smoothly but ofc with less power and more fuel burning please help me someone as nobody knows where the air leak is coming from ! Thanks 🙏 M135i N55
@@jeremyzadeian8710 yes it turned out to be drive belt / tensioner belt was inside my oil sump because it was ripped before and crank sucked it in , took sump out cleaned it and back to normal but that was my case not sure about yours
Pedro, yes that is the transducer I used, it is able to read down close to 30inhg of vacuum. When I do this test I set the vantage on graphing meter -> then select 100 psi vacuum. Keep in mind you will need the adapter and cable to hook up the transducer.
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Great video and sadly most of us can't afford Snap-on anything, but at least we have a idea of what happening. Like the old way testing pressure leaks and hand on oil cap showing high pressures. 😅
PROFICIENT DTECH Engineering
Thanks 👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great video! like always! a lot to learn!
great video, its always nice to see some explain how this system works. but unfortunately this SNAPON tool is expensive.... can i use a regular old vacuum carburator style with a old BMW N55 oil cap with a tight fitting installed in the cap. ty
if it reads low enough vacuum, you can also use a manometer that's actually what we used to use at the dealer
@@DTEAuto ty for rsponse
Very nice demostration
Any dtc associated with vacuum leak?
usually fuel trim codes, lean mixture codes,
Nice video Sadel!
Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed
👍🏿 good video I have this problem now. This will be my third time doing this job two different valve covers two different problems. I’m just gonna go to Bmw and get the valve cover the FCP Euro Valve cover is just not working out🤦🏿
Yes , it's always best to try on going with factory unit at first if budget allows, due to the complexity of the repair. I hope you get yours running right soon, thank you for watching.
hello you fixed your problem ? i have the exact same problem
@@letopdutop5072 yeah I fix my problem
Walnut blast hope it helps you
@@jaya6454 ok thanks,what was the problème ?
Quick question , is the intake pipe near the turbo collecting oil ? Blow by oil ? I have a 2015 BMW 435 I , I resealed the oil filter housing , oil line o ring gaskets , upper radiator hose , thermostat to cylinder head coolant hose , and when I shot a light down the intake leading to the turbo , there is a small collection of oil , I’m no expert , but no oil should be where air is getting sucked in , according to some , this could be oil being pushed back through the engine and condensing in the intake ? My guess is I have a bad PCV witch I think it’s stuck open or closed , it’s not a lot of oil maybe a teaspoon outside the port in the intake pipe ,, so instead of ordering a 700 dollar head gasket , I need to verify with certainty I have a bad head gasket , clues , oil seepage all around the front pullys , oil filter housing , alternator , covered in layers of oil ,, I’m not taking a chance on the serp belt I’m changing out everything all seals ,, my question is can a vac test using a affordable vac tester ? Also if I get crazy numbers ,, way off the mark ,.should I change the valve cover myself ? Or take it in ? I’ve done a few in the last , I have the service manual on torq procedures ,, but damn they are pricey , your thoughts ? Any thing will help .
I would start by stating that it is not unusual to see that amount of oil in the pipes. It's part of the fact that the recirculation system is a sealed system and oil vapors in the crankcase pressure recirculated will turn into oil droplets and eventually pool up. I have not seen a head gasket randomly just fail and fail to leak oil on the N55/N20's. The N52 would leak oil in that front area from the head gasket but due to backed out or broken small head bolts. If you think you are having pressure related problems, these bmw's are very good at throwing trouble codes for it. Again on the N55/N20 it is very common to leak oil from the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, oil cooler seal (bolted to the filter housing) , all of these are up high places that will leak downwards onto those items you mentioned. The other one that leaks in the front area is the front main seal. Replacing the valve cover yourself can be challenging and time consuming, you will be dealing with taking apart the high pressure fuel system components.
I’m a bit confused the oil cap test, if you open and lift it and you feel suction…… means you have an issue?
correct, it means that the rubber diaphragm in the crankcase vent valve has ruptured and now you are tying intake manifold vacuum to the crankcase, that is why you would feel suction when trying to lift the oil cap which means you have to replace the crankcase vent valve
@@DTEAuto thank you 🙏 I’ll replace mines this week. I recall when I when first replaced my valve cover years, I removed the oil cap while the car was idling and right away the engine start to stumble and stall out. Currently right now I lift the cap and notice suction and the rpms rev up and settle…. Doesn’t try to stall out….. based from your experience could this cause all the spark plugs to have carbon build up and bad gas mileage?
what does the known good "oil cap lift off" test sound/feel like for vacuum?
it will have just very slight vacuum in it and you will hear a small hiss when pulling it off
I currently went through a oil housing leak and engine gasket leak all fixed now, brand new ECU been replaced too ,but the only issue I’m having is an air leak and the garage can’t seem to find it they checked every single part did smoke test too , this happens everytime I connect the mass air flow sensor the car misfires and mixture too lean and once I disconnect it the car runs smoothly but ofc with less power and more fuel burning please help me someone as nobody knows where the air leak is coming from ! Thanks 🙏
M135i N55
Hey Mate, i currently have this issue. Any fix?
@@jeremyzadeian8710 yes it turned out to be drive belt / tensioner belt was inside my oil sump because it was ripped before and crank sucked it in , took sump out cleaned it and back to normal but that was my case not sure about yours
Greetings and Blessings,buddy!
You are using the Snap On Pressure Transducer EEPV302AL or any other?
Pedro, yes that is the transducer I used, it is able to read down close to 30inhg of vacuum. When I do this test I set the vantage on graphing meter -> then select 100 psi vacuum. Keep in mind you will need the adapter and cable to hook up the transducer.
@@DTEAuto
I got the Adapter Kit, but not the 100 psi transducer.....
Thanks Buddy, Great video!
nice job!
Love ❤️ it
What does opening the oil cap create?
opening the cap creates a "leak" in the crankcase system that is supposed to be sealed.
SFT or LFT which are affected?
I would imagine that they would, short term most likely for sure
Mercury inches