Tips & Tricks For 3D Printing Railway Models
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2024
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Today I'm sharing some tips to help you with making models on an FDM 3D printer!
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0:00 Intro
2:38 CAD Design Tips
8:09 Slicer Tips
12:28 3D Printer Tweaking & Maintenance - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Please consider doing an introductory video for motors, wiring and adding pickups to your 3D printed locos. I really want to be able to 3D print my own locos but I have not got the knowledge to wire them myself.
Sam you are a such a clever boy, everything seems so easy for you.
With such small scale parts I suggest using a 0.20 nozzle which will yield half the height layers, half the lines. Keep the great vids coming, Sam, thanks.
Thanks a lot for sharing! I never had much luck with the 0.2mm nozzle - reliability went down the drain in terms of clogging! I do need to try this on a few other machines though! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains You should start building an LNER A2 Raven class because you don't have one.
@@SamsTrains With 0.2 you have to tinker with temperature setting. They are not the same as 0.4, oh no. I use mine at around 230-210 C on MINI 3D printer.
I’m a bit of a 3d printing nerd so I have a few more tips:
1. If you use an I3 style printer (such as an Ender 3), set your layer heights to be a multiple of 0.04. This is the smallest size that the Z axis can move in, and it’ll result in much cleaner layers. If you’re using a 0.4mm nozzle, I wouldn’t go under 0.08mm or above 0.32mm to make sure that there aren’t any issues when printing.
2.) If you have a tall and skinny model, use a brim or raft to prevent it from breaking off.
3.) Dry your filament. If you don’t, you’ll start to have a lot of issues that are impossible to fix otherwise. I’d recommend getting a filament dryer, but an oven should work fine as long as you’re super careful (they don’t have very accurate temperature control, so you can melt the part pretty easily). I’ve also heard that food dehydrators also work well for this.
4.) It’s very easy to tension belts on a printer without belt tensioners. You usually just have to unscrew the pulley and move it back by hand, and you’ll never have to touch it again. A belt tensioner will only really save you 5-10 minutes.
5.) Although Sam says to oil your printer, you should grease them. Oil will very quickly wear off after an hour or so of printing. It is designed for high speed applications, not high precision. Use machine grease and only lubricate the lead screw. The wheels shouldn’t be lubricated because they shouldn’t slide on the V-Slot. If they do, you’ll lose a bit of accuracy.
6.) Have fun with your printer! The more you use it and play with it, the better quality parts you’ll be able to make. It’s good practice to print models you find online, especially torture tests or calibration objects. It’ll also help to use your printer for around the house fixes that you may need.
7.) Design your parts to not need supports. In many cases, you can make small changes to your part to avoid using them.
Overall, this was a pretty good tutorial, though there were a couple little mistakes here or there (such as the recommendation to use oil). I hope that my little guide is also helpful, and you should hopefully be able to print better and more reliably.
Did you know Sam that you can get a glow in the dark, and wood plastics for your 3d printer. Huh I wonder what that could be used for ;)
Cheers Jasper & Willow
Wow! That is incredibly useful. These are the exact tips for the point that I am at in 3D printing. I would be very excited to see another video in this series. And perhaps you could make a video about the process of priming/filling/sanding a 3d model to get a nice smooth result. I notice that your creations have benefitted from this sort of process. Thanks.
One thing I’ve been doing a lot of recently is motorising the plastic locomotive kits that Dapol produces from the old Rosebud toolings, my conversions work well but they use chassis components from Triang models, one thing I think would be fun to look into is producing motor kits for them, maybe that’s another thing for you to look into if you’re interested
Love love love that you're doing this. Thanks for doing the hard work for me!
Your knowledge is priceless! Thanks very much.
FANTASTIC! Thanks Sam
Well done Sam, some great advice. The print bed stuff is really good. Although I don’t have a 3D printer, the advice is great for knowing what to look out for. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. 🎉
Excellent video Sam. I’ve learned some very useful tips from this video.
Awesome video Sam's trains
Could not resist when I saw price via affiant link - time to upgrade from my dinky MonoPrice mini. Great vid as well - much appreciated.
Great video! I occasionally 3D-print my own rolling stock in N scale and a lot of these tips are pretty helpful to me. I ought to try that last tip of yours; I've been using masking tape for bed adhesion but gluesticks and IPA might work better for me.
So amazing tips
Good look into the 3D world. 👍👍
Very informative. 👍
Always love the vids
Some fantastic tips there Sam. Especially around layer height.
The only tip that I really disagree with is the use of the glue stick. I have seen in the past others use this technique too. I tried it a year or two back and got very mixed results. I now use nothing to promote adhesion, but I just wipe the bed clean with IPA before each print as the bed heats. I don't get much adhesion problems these days. My printer is a basic Creality Ender 3, with a glass bed though.
All clever stuff Sam :)
Nice practical tips, thanks for the video !
It's a pleasure Oliver! :D
Nice video sam
Sam that's very useful
Fun fact the way I printed your locomotives Is I basically stole the chassis off of one and built a new body Because I could not get accurate measurements to build a chassis. I made Your copperknob chassis And sits and is Modified for a HO birdie 0-4-0 loco I made
Sam when was the last time you had Lindt chocolate? 😊
Hello Sam ( I'm going to do this every upload from now on )
You can join in the chat of my new premiere video at 6:30pm this evening, if you'd like to. I'm the host for a change. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
Very interesting Sam, I watched a video somewhere that you could change the hardrive on your 3d printer to make smoother model.
Cheers Jasper & Willow
Thanks very much! I'm not sure about that - hard drive??
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@Sam'sTrains What wheels did you use for the L&MR coal wagons? I'm designing my own but haven't been able to pick a good wheelset yet
I have issues with a corner lifting during the print, squashing each layer up. Tryed leveling the bed and having the entire model build a few mm off the bed on supports which didn't work as well as planned. I just print a thick base now and just sand it flat but its more work than it should be.
Thanks for this! I’m looking at having a go at 3D printing. What do you recommend as an ideal printer for starting out with?
Yeah best to got to much smaller nozzles but you do run into issues like clogging so you do have to look at fine tuning your 3d printer to avoid those issues
Sam imagine you a uncle Fredrick incredible balancing locomotive like an 0-2-0 tender engine!
Good tips Sam 🤔🚂🚂🚂
Would you say it’s worth converting my 00 gauge layout to DCC if it’s only the standard Hornby track packs from A-F being used
Hi Sam, Nice Idea but for some of us , I can't afford one, would like to have a go, All the best Brian 😁
Nice video Sam, it's my birthday on June 1st. Hope you're doing well mate. 👍
hi sam, what would be the best fdm printer for affordability and quality that is available in canada?
Do you have any tips for modeling software? I cant get my head around how blender works and Sketchup Free is very limited
SLS nylon printed parts are far more accurate than FDM but very expensive. However if you send your designs of small parts off to be professionally printed you may find that it's cost effective. If the design of the parts are assembled in a small box it will save them the trouble and expense of post processing and you a free box!
In the slicer I use polar cloud Allows you to mash different builds together. What does new tool mean when You review a locomotive
New tool means that it has been newly designed.
Ah Like if they create a new mold in how the locomotive is built That makes sense
Fax
You really got better Sam. Maybe You can make your own company and give the other model railway companies a run for their money.
Thank you so much Sam, I have been having pain in the illegal A word problems for a while now and thanks to you Sam, I am one step closer to accomplishing good models. Thank you so much Sam!!!!❤️🥹😉👍✌️🎶😎🤩
would 3d printing be strong enough to print final drive cog for split chassis axle on 00 manors iv not seen any of these for sale new or printed
Yes I believe it would be! Might be a tricky thing to support with FDM, but it would indeed be strong enough!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video, very helpful, thanks. Bought 30 metal disk wheels yesterday for £5! And, is £35 for a mint Bachmann 64XX a good price?
Thanks very much! Oh wow that's great! A very good price indeed :O
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
"What are you struggling with with 3d printing?" - mostly finding the time and motivation to actually work on anything lately. But when I get to it I'll be sure to refer back to this video
Yeah that's very understandable - very easy to lose hours to this stuff!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great tips, Sam! I recently picked up a Mingda Magician X2 as my first 3D printer. The quick setup guide was very helpful, but it said nothing about adjusting the belt tension. The belt for the print bed was so loose from the factory that it wouldn’t run. Once I figured out that was the problem, it was easy to tighten it up just like in your video. After that, the initial results were great. I will be incorporating your tips as I dive into the software and begin designing models. Thanks!
I should get a 3D printer 😅
Very good code, here Sam, as I have said on your other 3D printing videos it is something I would like to try so if I eventually do start 3D printing myself some of these tips may come in handy.
Thanks a lot David - that sounds great, good luck if you decide to go for one! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Yesterday I got the Bachmann Class 159 3 car train pack in Network Southeast livery for just 186 pounds, and yes it's the new 2020 retooled version. Quite the bargain I must say. ;)
Maybe one day, very informative. Stop teasing with those coal wagons. My Rapido Lion is due and I’d like some stock for it. Keep up the great work
They're coming very soon!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Nice tips, thanks for sharing real experience obtained from trial and experiments. You're saving everyone a lot of time.
You don't talk much about it but do you have some warping problem with larger (coaches size) models? I don't know why but my prints sometimes distord badly, sometime are perfect.
Interesting video today Sam makes me wanna get a 3D printer more now 😊
Sam, it was very considerate of you to share this information with your viewers. These techniques separate the good from the great 3d printed models and are typically learned over several weeks of trial and error. Knowing them in advance gives a tremendous leg up on producing a quality product. Thanks and cheers to you.
I have problems with sketchup making faulty models that don't slice. I'm using the free version.
Yeah that's very common - you have to be very careful how you design things, and be sure to delete any interior faces/walls. It does take practice, but once your models have complete outer shells with nothing inside, they will slice!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
3D printing certainly has come a long way. Getting an optimum result is extremely time consuming but gladly many thoughts and experiences are being shared on YT such as by yourself. The path for us is following resin printing tbh. We've been awed by the latest Anycubic Photon Mono 2. It can swallow a wide range of file formats and will do the translation to a printable one by itself. Prints have become truly factory quality with that equipment, and tonnes of files of models are available on so many sites these days. From accessories to wagons. Some free of charge, some just a few dollars. We are following the scene with utmost interest 🙂 Cheerio.
Thanks Linda - it is very important to share - I've found tonnes of solutions to my problems online! The anycubic sounds awesome, for sure! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
What’s your fail to success ratio?
Like 3 fails per 1 success?
As someone who has both a filament and resin printer this video was quite interesting and I’ll be sure to try some of these with my older filament printer
Thanks David - hopefully these will help! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Just got an Anycubic Kobra Go. Only done a test print so far, which was actually very good. Hoping to do some low relief terraced housing, and see how it goes.
That sounds awesome Greg - good luck! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Bambu + AMS Sam, worth every penny. One machine gives same amount of printing hours as 3 enders. No tinkering, no messing around - true plug and play. Superb quality of prints and insane accuracy, 100% reliable. I ended up selling all my printers and kept p1p only - just no need. Keep in mind when you decide to upgrade.
Unless you didn't remember my comment on the last video, please try the DF4E dual diesel locomotive. It's a very well detailed model.
Thank you! I can definitely look into that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I wish I could get a 3d printer but to be honest I can’t afford one to make a decent model
Hi
Hey Sam. Thank you for uploading amazing videos. These videos have helped me through these past couple of months. Thank you so much ( can you please read this in your next video ?. ).
My top tips, use a smaller nozzle and consider using PrusaSlicer instead of Cura.
Very good video Sam.
I have considered 3d printing. But i have no experience 3d modeling on computer which is putting me off.
What types and models of 3D printers do you recommend? In particular, what build plate size allows you to create all the models you want to in OO scale?
Am i
No
Im first
Am I first lol
How dare you!
Clickbaiting us with your copperknob!
Early 391 veiws
Hi Sam,
I've got some designs of a diesel locomotive body I'd like printed, wonder if you would be willing to undertake the task for me, If you are willing to take a look at it I shall send you my email and we could take it from there. Please do let me know.
Cheers mate,
Michael.