bonus tip: if you want a perfectly smooth, round hole with more resistance to delamination, make the hole oversized and print an inner liner vertically that you then glue or friction fit into the oversized hole. this also helps with clearance issues because you can just adjust and reprint the liner to get the exact fit you want with minimal waste.
This can also make the part stronger at this potentially high stress area by orienting the pieces at 90 degrees like plywood. The insert could also act like a ring to keep screws from splitting the main part with layers parallel to the screw
It's also worthwhile to remind people about *PLA creep*; even if the fit is very snug and tight, and even if you use screws to clamp it, PLA will deform over time under constant loads. So a hole which was initially very snug and tight, will after a few months be loose because the PLA has permanently deformed. So any design that requires snug fits and constant stresses, should be printed in other types of plastic that don't suffer from this (really annoying) property.
I usually add about 0.5mm to the radius to allow for material expansion with any hole. Even then some are too small and use a razor, drill or deburring tool. A lot depends on the nozzle size, print orientation and detail settings of the slicing software as well.
Simpler fix: 1. Design a bit larger hole so that when you print, you get more tolerance. 2. Drill a bit smaller hole then rim it with a rimming tool to your proffered size.
Good design tips even for the more seasoned designer. On the teardrop holes, with everything ideal your slicer and printer should work together to where the "Flat spot" at the top of the hole is at the correct height. It's possible that you get a small amount of droop when printing that bridge that makes those holes too small. For the sake of proper parametric sketches, it'd be far better to define the angle of that point, then you could make it 40 to 50 degrees to the horizontal to ensure that the overhang can be printed and that also allows you to change the diameter of that hole without having to also change the dimension you had to the point. For example you had an 8.2mm hole for your rod and 5mm from the center of the circle to the point of the teardrop. If you decided later to go to 6mm rods your teardrop would have a much sharper point and a much larger amount of material removed relative to the size of the rod. If you decided to go up to 12mm rods your "Point" of the teardrop would be inside your circle. This in conjunction with your tangent mates would probably throw up an error on that sketch until you changed the dimension for that point. I'm sure you were building based off of a preset pile of parts and you knew what size was going in there and weren't going to change your mind but practicing Parametric modeling even where it's not necessary really helps keep up skills (In my opinion anyways).
All this can be eliminated if you simply constrain the angle of the spike, not the height. It will not completely be aesthetically pleasing as it will look too high for bigger holes. You can avoid that if you specify the height, but not from the center rather from the perimenter and you have to drop the tangential constraint. The phenomenon is that with smaller holes the layer hight thus the quantization effect has much bigger impact on the accuracy that with bigger holes. You can print a larger hole with proportionally smaller teardrop.
Some really cool tips Angus! In addition to the last example, at 6:32, if you needed to, you could always drive 3D printed wedges (or even just wood screws) into the "smiley face" cutouts to make the fit even tighter.
My experience, it's hard to keep deburring tool centered. I resorted to vertical stand drill. But looks aside I now would employ Angus' teardrop holes for simplicity.
Hey Angus, I know this is an old video, but I was searching around on some Fusion tips and teardrop holes are a real game changer when folks start designing. I am always happy when I see videos that are so helpful to others. I always appreciate what you do.
I like to leave the holes under size, then use a reamer in a drill press or milldrill to get the hole to size. I also use Slic3r's modifers feature to make the walls around counterbored holes thicker (or solid infill)
I also found this method to be the best if your looking for precision. Often a number drill size or fractional bit will work for most fitments. For perfect bearing fits then go with a reamer if you can afford it.
For anyone who needs to use screws, I used to make holes for nuts, exactly how this has been done here. But threaded inserts are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better! Check out CNC kitchen's episode on threaded inserts to see what I'm talking about. Due to the geometry of nuts, they often want to split the part along the layer lines, or will actually torque out and be unusable with fairly low amounts of force. Threaded inserts are incredibly strong, and will actually increase the strength of the part because they fuse the layer lines within the hole itself.
Thank you. The slot for fitting bearings is genius! Printed a CNC router bracket to accommodate a bldc motor. My bearing holes came out too small and I don’t have a drill bit big enough to expand the hole. Tried friction pressing a 10mm socket with a wrench. Expanded a bit but cracked the piece. Printed in ABS. Going to try this. Thanks again!
Someone get this man a job teaching people how to 3D print things in college!!! I showed one of my friends that have to learn to 3D print in college, and he told me he prefers him over his teacher.
Angus, I am very new to CAD design and 3D printing. However, the information contained herein is EXCELLENT. Very good tips; much appreciated. This will save time and trouble down the road as I try to master this new knowledge base. Thank you for sharing.
Thank You, I just designed 18mm x 50mm cable chain links for my CNC and the tear drop trick will really help. I was having to file the tops back into round. You most definitely help to empower.
Before i watched this i used to think that holes are accurate!! But now i know that they are inaccurate and also how to solvr it! Thanks Angus for helping me!!!
more tips: * Create a long bevel or draft of about 1 or 2 degrees at the area where you will start inserting rods. * The flat part of the circle is beneficial for providing a bit of press fit. * The 'clamp' is a nice idea to some extent. Often, you may not have room to have that feature. Again, a bit of draft on the hole will help here. I've found 1 or 2 degrees for about 5mm works great. * Rather than a teardrop, create a 'keyway' shape. Then, if you want you could put a printed wedge in the keyway. The keyway will print much nicer than the teardrop shape. * Do your best to design holes that can be printed with the axis going in the z direction.
You have a good collection of printing tips! They make people think about the process. It lacks only a section dedicated to the use of an induction furnace in the interests of 3D printing.
Always great vids Angus. TIP: Use the load/modifiermodel etc in Prusa/BBL etc to load a reinforcement area around the hole first using 100% concentric infill. A lot of time the PLA 'creep' can simiply a lack of area reinforcement. I have found no issues with PLA movement relative to any other unless temp is involved.
I find a more appropriate term for over-sizing or reducing certain dimensions in order to meet a proper fit due to the missed accuracy of printing would be 'compensation', since although we may say we have designated a "clearance" within the CAD software to do so, the actual measured value of the part will be quite different, making it not so much a clearance but a compensation amount. I hope we can adopt this.
Cool design. Another thing I do is anneal the parts. While they are hot, rods and what not fit in fine, and upon cooling parts are both annealed and grip like a mo-fo. No need for tricks that way
Cool tips! You don't need a teardrop shape if you print with fine layer resolution. Many slivers have dynamic layer heights just for accuracy in areas like this.
Good video, bit late as I finished my printer last summer with these problems solved. Instead of a teardrop hole, I usually make a tri-lobed hole, this way the rod is clamped perfectly
Thanks for the design tips! Another tip is try to use the flat side of the carpet knife to clean out holes, the sharp side will often cut into the material.
Drilling - depends on how tight tolerances you need / want to hold. The harsh truth about drills is that they skate and skew everywhere. Reamers are used for finishing a hole, drills to rough cut. Reamers can also be very expensive, though.
Im not a CAD pro but whenever I need tight holes I just print the exact size as the rod without any clearance, then use a blow dryer to make the plastic more malleable. As the plastic cools, it expands again such that the rod is stuck in the hole. Ive seen that this is an installation technique for metals as well.
Angus, awesome tips. i have already used your tips on some fixture designs and wow what a difference. usually we end up reaming the holes to get a tight fit but using these techniques really our post process down. i've shared your video to my coworks to help them design for 3D print as well. Thanks Angus
Great ideas, Angus! I like the way you think! Another way to get better holes might be to print an oversized hole then fill it with a bushing that was printed vertically. That way the circularity won't be affected by steps in the layers. This can also help two holes on opposite sides of an assembly to remain true if there is any warping of the plastic. (Let the rod hold both bushings in perfect alignment, then use adhesive between the bushing and the case to set the alignment)
I have done this on a couple models, but unless you're fastening on both sides, or you make a flanged bushing, it's hard to keep it in place. If you really need the accuracy it does work, but the added complexity is usually not worth it. I usually do it because I'm indecisive and need to start printing a part of my design to actually commit to working on it, then have to use bushings to change the holes to meet what I end up designing the rest of the parts to, though I don't need to do this often.
Wow mann . I just picked up my first printer the other day ( inventor dual ) lot to learn but u got some awsome work and explain what ur doing and it’s pretty easy to understand the way u explain stuff .👍🏻
I tend to print just a pinhole or a starter hole, if you will, and then drill it out later but that's not always a good solution. I look forward to trying these tips!
OUTSTANDING TIPS!! THANKS Angus!! I knew about and use the second one all the time, but the first and third - excellent! Will definitely use them from this day forward in lots of design work!
Nice work Angus, looks like you have enjoyed your break from things! As a retired design engineer myself I’m impressed-you will go a long way bud. As for me, I need to somehow convert from PTC Creo (used when at work) to Fusion if I’m going to keep up with the world I think lol
This is awesome. Thanks Angus. I've had this problem over and over (with the tops flattened). I try and print the holes vertically to get perfect circles.. but you cant always do that.
I love seeing what you can design in fusion 360. I've gotta sit down and really learn it, but for now I'm using Solidworks. Great tips on the different ways to create holes I've learned a lot!
@3:01: "it's gonna give us the clearance we need to shove the rod in - and to keep it nice and tight" to that I say "these are not the clearances you're looking for"
I do a lot of stuff that most people would consider a waste of time...like magnetic motors, better turbine designs...………..just be creative....design the holes slightly smaller and ream them out by hand or with a drill. Ya gonna have to do it a few times for sure, but that's what makes it so damn frustrating and fun at the same time. A little early, but Merry CHRISTmass to all from North Carolina U.S.A. Love ya all :)
In Cura there is a setting that allows compensation for under/oversized dimensions, so your part comes out with exact dimensions without the need to make changes to the dimensions of the part.
Maker's Muse I like the idea about the 'tear drop' mod however the corner you have created introduces a stress concentration point which may lead to cracking. Perhaps this is something to be mindful of.
Simple one first, design for print orientation. Much easier to make something round by moving steppers in a circle than building up layers. Next, if you have circles in multiples planes, and there is no good "this way up" to print, then consider splitting the part into two easy to print components that bolt together.
You can also use a material that gives a little like Nylon. With the teardrop if the room is tight you can also flatten it on top maybe 1 layer height above the circle to the place where the printer does ok on the overhang angle - in essence creating a D shaped thing - kinda and let the printer bridge it. If I really want a Nice hole though then nothing beats making it slightly undersized and drilling it out on a drill press. Another challenge is to account for "elephants foot" when you print laying down and pressing in rods or bolts become much easier if you put a fillet or camphor on the outside. it pays to print yourself a chart for clearance holes for your material and hole sizes as a 5mm hole in PETG might not be 5.1 in ABS and 4.9 in Nylon. But I like it you are going technical and I like it that you did a printer. Maybe after robotics season if the money is there I will do one . Just want to let you know you and a couple other channels have helped me a lot getting started and now I started a channel to share and maybe give back a bit
Big thanks for sharing those tips, I've been following the channel for a long time now and always had in mind a project that shares a lot of similarities to that one. It is good to see the things that I thought that were in line with how you did and it worked, and even cooler to discover both that drop shape hole and the hole fingers techniques! thank you!
Nice! Your timing was perfect! I needed those tips for a print design I'm currently working on at the moment. Going to implement your tips right now. Thanks so much Angus, your awesome!!
Another good trick is to not use cylindrical holes, and instead use prisms with 8-16 sides, that way the middles of the sides can deform slightly and you get a very tight fit, it has some advantages over the slot method: you have material all around the hole and it needs less material overall. I usually use prisms combined with the teardrop method and countersink the holes slightly to ease fitting in rods.
I've used slot cut hole trick, but without metal screw, plastic deforms over time and eventually the rod comes loose, especially vibration and temperature change environment. If using metal screws to clamp, print direction matters. If the hole is built in Z (as shown in 1:30), it will be very fragile compared to if it's built in X-Y plane
One of my favorite techniques is to ever so slightly chamfer the hole to allow the rod/bearing,screw a chance to guide itself in. In the example with the bearing, I could see myself getting the spacing wrong and having to beat the bearing in with a hammer. With the addition of the chamfer on the hole it will be more likely to get popped into the right spot.
Thankyou for your design tutorial, the two tips about spacing are great but I can't agree with the teardrop design. More that that, I would recommend to make the holes a little smaller (2-5%, like 0.4 for 10mm hole) and drill it with the exact drill size you need. This way you both guarantee the best diameter coincidence AND make the surface (skin) around the holes clean of the printing artifacts. I spent a lot of effort trying to make good holes playing with 0.1 mm increase/decrease but it is really possible only for horizontal circles, not for the vertical ones. However if you don't need all the stiffness that your material offers you can play with the shape of the overhang parts as well like you suggest :-)
What I'd love to see is an open source, small, 3D printable 3D transport like what you look to be developing that can be used with any type of head - milling, laser, etc.
teardrop holes will not allow the rods to be at the exact spatial location BUT this is only an issue if you have the teardrops pointing in different direction, just FYI and yeah, we are talking (less than) a fractional micron off
I wish you would've mentioned if, in the compliant holes, you change your clearances at all to alter the pressure. As in, do you continue using the slight gap you need based on your clearance test or do you use exact values and count on the plastic to take up the flex and increase the pressure on the part?
For press fit holes, it's better to design a normal hole, then use a vice or hammer and block to force the part in. You will get a much tighter fit, much higher rigidity, and less chance of misalignment.
bonus tip: if you want a perfectly smooth, round hole with more resistance to delamination, make the hole oversized and print an inner liner vertically that you then glue or friction fit into the oversized hole. this also helps with clearance issues because you can just adjust and reprint the liner to get the exact fit you want with minimal waste.
This can also make the part stronger at this potentially high stress area by orienting the pieces at 90 degrees like plywood. The insert could also act like a ring to keep screws from splitting the main part with layers parallel to the screw
This is a clever idea!
this is an amazing tip! blew my mind! thanks!!!
It's also worthwhile to remind people about *PLA creep*; even if the fit is very snug and tight, and even if you use screws to clamp it, PLA will deform over time under constant loads. So a hole which was initially very snug and tight, will after a few months be loose because the PLA has permanently deformed.
So any design that requires snug fits and constant stresses, should be printed in other types of plastic that don't suffer from this (really annoying) property.
Thank you for being the only 3D printing channel who uses the terms "tolerance" and "clearance" properly!
Pro hint: Don't print the holes - print the matter around the holes! :)
There is no spoon.
The hole truth.
I usually add about 0.5mm to the radius to allow for material expansion with any hole. Even then some are too small and use a razor, drill or deburring tool. A lot depends on the nozzle size, print orientation and detail settings of the slicing software as well.
Simpler fix:
1. Design a bit larger hole so that when you print, you get more tolerance.
2. Drill a bit smaller hole then rim it with a rimming tool to your proffered size.
@@saeed6811 *reaming tool
Good design tips even for the more seasoned designer. On the teardrop holes, with everything ideal your slicer and printer should work together to where the "Flat spot" at the top of the hole is at the correct height. It's possible that you get a small amount of droop when printing that bridge that makes those holes too small.
For the sake of proper parametric sketches, it'd be far better to define the angle of that point, then you could make it 40 to 50 degrees to the horizontal to ensure that the overhang can be printed and that also allows you to change the diameter of that hole without having to also change the dimension you had to the point.
For example you had an 8.2mm hole for your rod and 5mm from the center of the circle to the point of the teardrop. If you decided later to go to 6mm rods your teardrop would have a much sharper point and a much larger amount of material removed relative to the size of the rod. If you decided to go up to 12mm rods your "Point" of the teardrop would be inside your circle. This in conjunction with your tangent mates would probably throw up an error on that sketch until you changed the dimension for that point.
I'm sure you were building based off of a preset pile of parts and you knew what size was going in there and weren't going to change your mind but practicing Parametric modeling even where it's not necessary really helps keep up skills (In my opinion anyways).
Ben Ryherd ok I didnt need a speech but thanks
Well-stated, Ben! Thank you for your invaluable insight.
@@skibur848 you’re stupid and angry, my favorite type of person to make fun of!!
@@danzo5521 i uh. Alright thats good. uh. i mean mk. im not angry and uh the stupid part? yeah i agree in pretty stupid
All this can be eliminated if you simply constrain the angle of the spike, not the height. It will not completely be aesthetically pleasing as it will look too high for bigger holes. You can avoid that if you specify the height, but not from the center rather from the perimenter and you have to drop the tangential constraint.
The phenomenon is that with smaller holes the layer hight thus the quantization effect has much bigger impact on the accuracy that with bigger holes. You can print a larger hole with proportionally smaller teardrop.
Some really cool tips Angus!
In addition to the last example, at 6:32, if you needed to, you could always drive 3D printed wedges (or even just wood screws) into the "smiley face" cutouts to make the fit even tighter.
Very impressive design skills! I'm impressed you designed your own printer!
7:02 - You need a deburring tool to clean out those holes. Nice tips.
Thirded. C'mon, they are one of the cheapest tools out there.
My experience, it's hard to keep deburring tool centered. I resorted to vertical stand drill. But looks aside I now would employ Angus' teardrop holes for simplicity.
Hey Angus, I know this is an old video, but I was searching around on some Fusion tips and teardrop holes are a real game changer when folks start designing. I am always happy when I see videos that are so helpful to others. I always appreciate what you do.
love the compliant bearing hole design!
I like to leave the holes under size, then use a reamer in a drill press or milldrill to get the hole to size. I also use Slic3r's modifers feature to make the walls around counterbored holes thicker (or solid infill)
Yep, I also use this technique and it works well. Plus a Lathe for outside diameters.
I also found this method to be the best if your looking for precision. Often a number drill size or fractional bit will work for most fitments. For perfect bearing fits then go with a reamer if you can afford it.
Hmm didn't know there was a "modifiers feature".. I've been printing more shells to get around this. Will have to look that upl
I'm one of those who don't know a thing about engineering but I enjoy watching people making stuff and the whole process is just beautiful!
Angus, a walking, talking, 3D Printing Wiki!
He's not a person. He's a Printer Wiki.
+1 For teardrops and slots. Thanks for the tip, I've been struggling with this for a while.
For anyone who needs to use screws, I used to make holes for nuts, exactly how this has been done here. But threaded inserts are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better! Check out CNC kitchen's episode on threaded inserts to see what I'm talking about.
Due to the geometry of nuts, they often want to split the part along the layer lines, or will actually torque out and be unusable with fairly low amounts of force. Threaded inserts are incredibly strong, and will actually increase the strength of the part because they fuse the layer lines within the hole itself.
Thank you. The slot for fitting bearings is genius! Printed a CNC router bracket to accommodate a bldc motor. My bearing holes came out too small and I don’t have a drill bit big enough to expand the hole. Tried friction pressing a 10mm socket with a wrench. Expanded a bit but cracked the piece. Printed in ABS. Going to try this. Thanks again!
Another bonus tip: Print the hole small with a thick border and drill it to size. Add a reamer if you want it to be smooth and percise
This is the best 3D print/maker channel by far! Thanks a lot!
Someone get this man a job teaching people how to 3D print things in college!!! I showed one of my friends that have to learn to 3D print in college, and he told me he prefers him over his teacher.
Angus, I am very new to CAD design and 3D printing. However, the information contained herein is EXCELLENT. Very good tips; much appreciated. This will save time and trouble down the road as I try to master this new knowledge base. Thank you for sharing.
Thank You, I just designed 18mm x 50mm cable chain links for my CNC and the tear drop trick will really help. I was having to file the tops back into round. You most definitely help to empower.
Before i watched this i used to think that holes are accurate!! But now i know that they are inaccurate and also how to solvr it! Thanks Angus for helping me!!!
more tips:
* Create a long bevel or draft of about 1 or 2 degrees at the area where you will start inserting rods.
* The flat part of the circle is beneficial for providing a bit of press fit.
* The 'clamp' is a nice idea to some extent. Often, you may not have room to have that feature. Again, a bit of draft on the hole will help here. I've found 1 or 2 degrees for about 5mm works great.
* Rather than a teardrop, create a 'keyway' shape. Then, if you want you could put a printed wedge in the keyway. The keyway will print much nicer than the teardrop shape.
* Do your best to design holes that can be printed with the axis going in the z direction.
Thanks for the tips. I've always had trouble shoving my rod in a hole.
Some genius tips. What I appreciate about this particular videos is hands on approach...Thanks....
Wow. It is so good to see someone out a printer to good use.
You have a good collection of printing tips! They make people think about the process.
It lacks only a section dedicated to the use of an induction furnace in the interests of 3D printing.
Always great vids Angus.
TIP: Use the load/modifiermodel etc in Prusa/BBL etc to load a reinforcement area around the hole first using 100% concentric infill. A lot of time the PLA 'creep' can simiply a lack of area reinforcement. I have found no issues with PLA movement relative to any other unless temp is involved.
I find a more appropriate term for over-sizing or reducing certain dimensions in order to meet a proper fit due to the missed accuracy of printing would be 'compensation', since although we may say we have designated a "clearance" within the CAD software to do so, the actual measured value of the part will be quite different, making it not so much a clearance but a compensation amount. I hope we can adopt this.
Cool design. Another thing I do is anneal the parts. While they are hot, rods and what not fit in fine, and upon cooling parts are both annealed and grip like a mo-fo. No need for tricks that way
This is some top notch content.
Was this a pun or have I been on the internet for too long
Good voice, can understand. Not too slow or too fast. Helped greatly.
Cool tips! You don't need a teardrop shape if you print with fine layer resolution. Many slivers have dynamic layer heights just for accuracy in areas like this.
Good video, bit late as I finished my printer last summer with these problems solved. Instead of a teardrop hole, I usually make a tri-lobed hole, this way the rod is clamped perfectly
I *really* appreciate your sharing these design details.
Thanks for the design tips!
Another tip is try to use the flat side of the carpet knife to clean out holes, the sharp side will often cut into the material.
Nice trick with the teardrop :) I just tend to use a drill to widen the hole :D
Drilling - depends on how tight tolerances you need / want to hold. The harsh truth about drills is that they skate and skew everywhere. Reamers are used for finishing a hole, drills to rough cut. Reamers can also be very expensive, though.
@@crossthreadaeroindustries8554 An 8mm reamer on amazon is pretty cheap since you can use the cheap ones in plastic.
There is also the fact that when 3d printing you don't really have much material you can remove, unless you do really thick walls and/or 100% infill.
@@lilietto1 when I model a 3mm hole, I also use a 3mm bore. maybe the hole is 2.98mm or so when printed. so not much material to remove ...
2 out of 3 was new to me, great tips!
Im not a CAD pro but whenever I need tight holes I just print the exact size as the rod without any clearance, then use a blow dryer to make the plastic more malleable. As the plastic cools, it expands again such that the rod is stuck in the hole. Ive seen that this is an installation technique for metals as well.
Knurl Nuts are awesome! So much better than dropping or losing nuts when assembling.
Angus, awesome tips. i have already used your tips on some fixture designs and wow what a difference. usually we end up reaming the holes to get a tight fit but using these techniques really our post process down. i've shared your video to my coworks to help them design for 3D print as well. Thanks Angus
This guy is sly. One of the best channel on the topic :)
I am sure you provided lots of valuable information, but I couldn't stop looking at your shirt.
Great ideas, Angus! I like the way you think! Another way to get better holes might be to print an oversized hole then fill it with a bushing that was printed vertically. That way the circularity won't be affected by steps in the layers. This can also help two holes on opposite sides of an assembly to remain true if there is any warping of the plastic. (Let the rod hold both bushings in perfect alignment, then use adhesive between the bushing and the case to set the alignment)
I have done this on a couple models, but unless you're fastening on both sides, or you make a flanged bushing, it's hard to keep it in place. If you really need the accuracy it does work, but the added complexity is usually not worth it.
I usually do it because I'm indecisive and need to start printing a part of my design to actually commit to working on it, then have to use bushings to change the holes to meet what I end up designing the rest of the parts to, though I don't need to do this often.
Will you be releasing this design anywhere for purchase? Whether it be pre-built or 3D files?
Wow mann . I just picked up my first printer the other day ( inventor dual ) lot to learn but u got some awsome work and explain what ur doing and it’s pretty easy to understand the way u explain stuff .👍🏻
I tend to print just a pinhole or a starter hole, if you will, and then drill it out later but that's not always a good solution. I look forward to trying these tips!
OUTSTANDING TIPS!! THANKS Angus!! I knew about and use the second one all the time, but the first and third - excellent! Will definitely use them from this day forward in lots of design work!
Excellent video, always waiting with baited breath for the next one.
Your hair Angus! Love it!
Such a great design. And through great design youre using less materials. Awesome.
Nice work Angus, looks like you have enjoyed your break from things! As a retired design engineer myself I’m impressed-you will go a long way bud. As for me, I need to somehow convert from PTC Creo (used when at work) to Fusion if I’m going to keep up with the world I think lol
This is awesome. Thanks Angus. I've had this problem over and over (with the tops flattened). I try and print the holes vertically to get perfect circles.. but you cant always do that.
I love seeing what you can design in fusion 360. I've gotta sit down and really learn it, but for now I'm using Solidworks. Great tips on the different ways to create holes I've learned a lot!
Why do you want to learn fusion 360 when you have acces to Solidworks? It's much better!
@3:01: "it's gonna give us the clearance we need to shove the rod in - and to keep it nice and tight"
to that I say
"these are not the clearances you're looking for"
I do a lot of stuff that most people would consider a waste of time...like magnetic motors, better turbine designs...………..just be creative....design the holes slightly smaller and ream them out by hand or with a drill. Ya gonna have to do it a few times for sure, but that's what makes it so damn frustrating and fun at the same time. A little early, but Merry CHRISTmass to all from North Carolina U.S.A. Love ya all :)
I know it's a meme to print a new 3d pronter but youve actually gone and done it you madman
This is great Angus, awesome to see your designs!!
In Cura there is a setting that allows compensation for under/oversized dimensions, so your part comes out with exact dimensions without the need to make changes to the dimensions of the part.
No, it doesn't
Amazing !!! Your videos are going to become insane if you keep going down this path !
Keep it up man solid content as always.
Very cool stuff, thanks. Another method I have used is to undersize the hole and then drill a hole so there is a nice machined high tolerance hole.
Who are those 52 dislikes? This video is pure gold.
Maker's Muse I like the idea about the 'tear drop' mod however the corner you have created introduces a stress concentration point which may lead to cracking. Perhaps this is something to be mindful of.
Maybe, but the layer bonding strength is what will probably fail first
Halfway through this video I went to subscribe because I liked the content only to realize I’m already subscribed. ):
Simple one first, design for print orientation. Much easier to make something round by moving steppers in a circle than building up layers.
Next, if you have circles in multiples planes, and there is no good "this way up" to print, then consider splitting the part into two easy to print components that bolt together.
Dude I'm so stoked to see this! Thank you!
I, for one, would not be upset if we got more videos like this.
If a hole is too small I just use a tapered reamer. But I will surely give a try of the teardrop trick !
You can also use a material that gives a little like Nylon. With the teardrop if the room is tight you can also flatten it on top maybe 1 layer height above the circle to the place where the printer does ok on the overhang angle - in essence creating a D shaped thing - kinda and let the printer bridge it. If I really want a Nice hole though then nothing beats making it slightly undersized and drilling it out on a drill press. Another challenge is to account for "elephants foot" when you print laying down and pressing in rods or bolts become much easier if you put a fillet or camphor on the outside. it pays to print yourself a chart for clearance holes for your material and hole sizes as a 5mm hole in PETG might not be 5.1 in ABS and 4.9 in Nylon. But I like it you are going technical and I like it that you did a printer. Maybe after robotics season if the money is there I will do one . Just want to let you know you and a couple other channels have helped me a lot getting started and now I started a channel to share and maybe give back a bit
I would love to see a series for newbies where you teach us the basics of fusion360, like a design you get us to make then we can show it off :)
Somehow the youtube algorithm gods knew that I was struggling to put a hole in a spot in my design..this video saved me some hair pulling!
Great tips, thanks Angus!
Big thanks for sharing those tips, I've been following the channel for a long time now and always had in mind a project that shares a lot of similarities to that one. It is good to see the things that I thought that were in line with how you did and it worked, and even cooler to discover both that drop shape hole and the hole fingers techniques! thank you!
Great tips! I especially loved the teardrop idea. Your bridging technique instead of supports also looks interesting. Can't wait to see it in action!
Wow, these tips are awesome! I could be watching this kind of videos for hours, very useful. Please do more tips!
"MM 3DPrinter" and i want one! well done feature with explanation!
Nice! Your timing was perfect! I needed those tips for a print design I'm currently working on at the moment. Going to implement your tips right now. Thanks so much Angus, your awesome!!
Way to go again Angus! Great tips!
4:30 am for me, actually a pleasant surprise
love your tips btw!
Another good trick is to not use cylindrical holes, and instead use prisms with 8-16 sides, that way the middles of the sides can deform slightly and you get a very tight fit, it has some advantages over the slot method: you have material all around the hole and it needs less material overall. I usually use prisms combined with the teardrop method and countersink the holes slightly to ease fitting in rods.
I was hoping to get the cad files and mess with it in Fusion.
Still learning this beautiful cad software.
love the third tip... i've broken so many prints because i forced rods, screws, etc. into them, when this simple change would do the trick :)
I've used slot cut hole trick, but without metal screw, plastic deforms over time and eventually the rod comes loose, especially vibration and temperature change environment. If using metal screws to clamp, print direction matters. If the hole is built in Z (as shown in 1:30), it will be very fragile compared to if it's built in X-Y plane
Wow! These tips about holes are really great! The 3rd is just a master piece! It can be thought out but you've made this for us! :)
This is definitely the tip I urgently needed!! Lots of solutions spring up in my head. Thanks for the video!
One of my favorite techniques is to ever so slightly chamfer the hole to allow the rod/bearing,screw a chance to guide itself in. In the example with the bearing, I could see myself getting the spacing wrong and having to beat the bearing in with a hammer. With the addition of the chamfer on the hole it will be more likely to get popped into the right spot.
So good! Let's bump this up!
Thankyou for your design tutorial, the two tips about spacing are great but I can't agree with the teardrop design.
More that that, I would recommend to make the holes a little smaller (2-5%, like 0.4 for 10mm hole) and drill it with the exact drill size you need. This way you both guarantee the best diameter coincidence AND make the surface (skin) around the holes clean of the printing artifacts.
I spent a lot of effort trying to make good holes playing with 0.1 mm increase/decrease but it is really possible only for horizontal circles, not for the vertical ones. However if you don't need all the stiffness that your material offers you can play with the shape of the overhang parts as well like you suggest :-)
I just discovered you to learn Fusion 360 I like how you speak clearly.
What I'd love to see is an open source, small, 3D printable 3D transport like what you look to be developing that can be used with any type of head - milling, laser, etc.
Bloody brilliant, New to printing with my Ender3, I have learned so much from your vids, Esspecially about getting 360 for free!
Waking up, still in pyjamas, doing a video... you're the man 😂
teardrop holes will not allow the rods to be at the exact spatial location
BUT this is only an issue if you have the teardrops pointing in different direction, just FYI
and yeah, we are talking (less than) a fractional micron off
This is why the good lord gave us drill bits. I design them slightly smaller and drill them out after, 100% round and perfect size.
I wish you would've mentioned if, in the compliant holes, you change your clearances at all to alter the pressure. As in, do you continue using the slight gap you need based on your clearance test or do you use exact values and count on the plastic to take up the flex and increase the pressure on the part?
For press fit holes, it's better to design a normal hole, then use a vice or hammer and block to force the part in. You will get a much tighter fit, much higher rigidity, and less chance of misalignment.
It's videos like this that caused me to subscribe to your channel. Thanks for what you do!
Excellent content. So many useful techniques there,
Great tips Angus, love the teardrop! Keep up the great work!
Very impressive design