As a mechanical engineer at Rolls Royce I would suggest buying a self centering chuck as that saves a lot of time and ensures your piece is centered on the lathe, also if you’re looking for lubrication to keep your work cool and stop heat deformation Hycut is very good!
3 jaw chucks are self centering. But you can never get as good as a 4 jaw chuck using an indicator to true the stock. This is why machinist always make fun of engineers.
@@kingfro2128 true but a 3 jaw self centering chuck with a centre will be accurate enough for most projects, I work to a tolerance on average of around 0.02 so I think that’s good enough for most
The rack spacers are a great idea . You will need to fit both sides and the with your autel run a steering angle reset , where the ecu will learn the further angle you have added to its stored steering angle . Also the steering angle sensor is normally mounted in the steering column. Leave it alone
adams come up story like no other, man used to be mopping floors now hes giving out cars we love you so much big boy just such a humble guy, always hosting awsome events and meets, keeping the community together
Adam has never wanted for food and housing. His dad has a JDM collection.... One of his first cars was a BMW... He might have mopped some floors and earned some money, but he had a HUGE privilege net too land on. His girl is an Officer brat and they make 6 figures easy plus have unlimited access to slave labor and power. It's a great gig...
@@KeithZim Jdm collection is a stretch for his father😅 he had the honda and thats basically it. Adam gave him the r32 but still yes, right place and time.
I work as a tech at bm, end point need to be set into control unit when a new rack gets fitted, may be worth teaching in new end points via daignostic kit. Worth a shot.
your explanations of how ackerman, tie rod travel, bumpsteer, and just steering interactions work was INCREDIBLY well informed and well explained to the average car guy or layman!
Hey @AdamLZ I like the idea of the macheaned tie rod and i think it could work, so seeing as the supra is a freak child that Toyota and BMW created, and that most of the steering components are BMW factory parts there might be a way to reprogram the steering rack to allow itself not to lock up when you have the machined tie rod installed. Im a Bmw tec and when installing new steering racks into coustimers vehicles you tend to have to do a survice funtion/ adaptation with a diagnostic tool that carries the Bmw software. One of these adaptation tests is to calibrate the end to end lock on the rack. Now im not saying its a 100% doable thing but you could try doing a recalibration on the steering rack and see if it would bypass the binding that you get when the ignition is on. (I hope this might help you achieve your extra angle)! From Tony, viewing from the Caribbean👍
I would highly recommend using a dial indicator to determine how much throw you would need when turning the steering rack. A little too much throw could have the potential to cause problems later on in the design phase. I’m no engineer by any means but as a machinist in aviation I run into similar problems. Good luck and Godspeed Adam.
In theory, the steering rack is from bmw, so maybe just a basic adpatation with a scanner (hopefully the brand's scanner), so the ECU knows the new limits of the rack. Just a theory maybe it works.
I've worked for JTEKT which is a steering rack company: inside MCU software there usually is a "virtual rack end" line in order to stop the tie road from hitting too hard the housing and prevent destroying everything or have a jump between pinion and rack
Adam! For your lathe! Get yourself some CNMG insert bars and Sandvik CNMG inserts for cutting steel, also get a set of polished CNMG inserts (uncoated) for turning aluminum! Your machine tools look pretty old and newer tooling solutions will help you out with surface finish, speed and accuracy.
You should be able to re-teach the steering end stops for the rack with a computer or disconnect the battery and turning lock to lock and holding it on the stops for a few seconds. When you disconnect the battery you normally have to recalibrate the steering angle sensor as it will loose its positioning, like how you have to do the window stops. You should be able to make it work somehow.
I have made my own parallel steer steering and you have to have the new hole for the nuckle on both sides and then set the correct toe and the measure how much of the parallel steer is. It took me a solid week of testing before I finally hit perfect paralell stering. It is a lot more complicated then one might think when you start of. I had the same mindset. Makes you apreteate stuff like wisefab and how well don they are. The inner tire rod solution works great. I suggest the find a solution for that instead. That way people can drive in the street "normal" but still have that extra angle. But i admire your aspiration to want to create your own "angle kit". When things are hard to do you always learn a lot so go for it. I enjoy this technical videos 👍
I work for bmw and I bet the idea would work for the rack spacers but you need to re-initialise the rack and tech in end stops!!! A basic diagnostic tool should be able to do that!
Usually this problem were the car limits the lock when it's turned on can be solved easily by doing a recalibration on the electronic power steering module, I do think you will need a specialized scanner for this... but you won't need to change any sensors or bypass any modules to be able to make the system understand that the rack has a bit more angle
currently in the middle of building my VVT engine! all your videos have been so much help!! got a lot of similar parts as your last build. but got the Mazworx Main Caps right away. watching your vid definitely made me order those right away😂 love the content man!! happy to see it back!
A lot of the newer vehicle have steering angle sensor built into the clock spring. And if you had a factory scan tool then you could do a basic setting of the steering rack end stops.
When you modify the throw of the rack and pinion you need to reprogram the steer angle sensor and it should work if the factory computer allows the extra angle.
The rotating part is called a chuck. You should make a backing plate for so your parts will have a consistent point of zero. And a magnetic feeler guage to get any run out from the part spinning.
I don’t think you would need to abandon the rack spacer idea. I can guarantee that you could reprogram whatever controls that rack to allow it to have more movement
if you have the room on the rim, tie rod sleeves are an easy and easy-to-get piece that significantly increase the tie rod strength. Literally you can turn more threads on the tie rod and use longer sleeves to make for a stronger setup that isn't impossible to find or more $$ to manufacture. oddroad guys do it all the time
rule of thumb with lathe work, avoid having twice the width of the tool in length poking out of the jaws, should remove some squealing. BUT allow atleast the width of the material in length into the jaws to bite onto to be safe
I remember all these original designs, you know 8 year old me was BEGGING for some merch. Nearly got a 335 for my first car too but got something reliable (aka slow) instead. You are my biggest inspiration in life
I’m not a bmw tech but I use to be a vw tech. If you wanted to try the rack spacer idea again try disconnected the battery and doing a discharge. Connect battery and hopefully the steering rack end stops unlearn for the rack. And then turn the wheel lock to lock and relearn the end stops. That’s how it would work on vw’s
Toolmaker/machinist here. Use some sorta cutting lube when cutting aluminum, it'll go much smoother, your chips won't stick to your tool like that, and it won't make that noise if your spindle speed is correct. WD40 would work.
Adam, need to order some dial indicators to indicate the part. Would be super helpful centering the part in the jaws. Also, don’t ever wear gloves and reach your hand into the lathe. Safety 101 with them is no loose clothes, short sleeve shirts, no jewelry, and no gloves. Basically anything that can get snagged because it will rip your limbs into the machine no problem.
most likely steering angle sensor is behind steering wheel on column. It can be calibrated with obd diagnostic tools, i wonder if that would give it more angle or just freak out more.
When you replace a steering angle sensor there is a relearn procedure. I'm sure you can plug in a bidirectional scanner and relearn the full lock to lock steering angle so the car doesn't cut you off before full lock.
The supra has no "steering angle sensor", you need the Toyota ISTA or a capable scan tool to initialize it. It makes you steer left, hold it, then right, hold it, and then center. Then it finds the center point for the steering angle sensor value. I don't know if it would solve the problem though as I've only done it on stock racks and tie rods.
The thing that I can appreciate about Adam is he actually knows the mechanics of how a vehicle works to a technicality unlike 95% of other car TH-camrs/vloggers.
I'm 3 min in and I'm In love with this @adamlz love the camera quality the flow of your explanations and also the rack with the merch!!! Huge improvements and I'm so engaged I had to write this!
Those squeals aren't terrible, but without coolant you need to be careful. if you had a way to use coolant on your parts, you could machine much more in a single pass.
Adam, they make 3D scanning software that utilizes the iPhone. Maybe look into one of those as an alternative. You can work any discrepancies out when designing
Get yourself an einstar or peel 2 3D scanner, bamboo labs X1 Carbon 3D printer and you can prototype most things you might need. No need for a super fancy scanner when FDM 3D printing isn't too accurate.
whenever you start to play with htg be carefull with it,people tested this unit in eu and after doing tests with the car after tune it randomly putted reverse gear and snapped everything in the drivetrain:') there is if i remember correctly some more issues people had with it so seems like pretty garbage start for automatic transmission tune/unit
Can you not fit your milled tie rod and then recalibrate the steering angle sensor? it should allow it too freely turn until its max as it has the factory settings in its memory.
Reset the learned steering angle valve with a scanner. May be called steering angle adaption or something along those lines, once you find it the car will let u turn lock to lock and save those valves
As a machinist, you should have a less longer fixation on your cutting tool soo it won't make that horrible noise. And I recommend using cutting oil soo it won't get too hot and not deform the piece your working on (sorry for my bad english)
There is a free 2D modelling program called Linkage that might be useful to make the first test plates to relocate the tie rods and make a better guess where to place the holes
i'm so freaking bummed that Europe can't enter for this give-away. Would be so damn special to have an LZ car in the Netherlands. Safe drivings to the one who wins it tho!
I think you hit the oscillation window on the tie rod due to extreme position/range. If you didn’t hit the window then the rod wouldn’t have a bending moment and buckle. Source: I used to be an engineer at a suspension&link supplier
I’m like 98% positive that Wisefab makes the spacers for the A90? You probably have them already. Their kits should come with the spacers for the A90 and the E90?
Johan coming in after the lathe was squealing like hell reminds me so much of a dad watching his son use a tool, haha I love yall
Just about what I thought of " oh here comes Johan looking like the shop dad"!!!!
thought LZ was giving the chaser away it scared me😂
Lmao nah fr tho
You kidding lol I was so excited I was already contemplating taking a loan out...
Man I thought he was as giving it away to I’ve wanted it since my buddy Mike has had it
hell no i knew he wasnt gonna give it away insta
@@Vaginameatwings mike’s not your buddy!
That shot of the GTR at 21:11 was so sick. Well done Mike!
I was looking for this comment!
As a mechanical engineer at Rolls Royce I would suggest buying a self centering chuck as that saves a lot of time and ensures your piece is centered on the lathe, also if you’re looking for lubrication to keep your work cool and stop heat deformation Hycut is very good!
3 jaw chucks are self centering. But you can never get as good as a 4 jaw chuck using an indicator to true the stock. This is why machinist always make fun of engineers.
@@kingfro2128 engineers laugh at your pay check
@@kingfro2128 true but a 3 jaw self centering chuck with a centre will be accurate enough for most projects, I work to a tolerance on average of around 0.02 so I think that’s good enough for most
he could probably make good use of a DRO and a set of digital calipers as well lol.
It would help if the tool wasn’t sticking 75% out of the tool holder
As a machinist, I was freakin terrified watching Adam touch a lathe. 😂
as a person who has access to liveleak videos, im shitting myself
@@demarcoharris9596 as a human im shitting myself..
As a shitting , I'm human myself .
Same bruh🤦♂️ he had that tool sticking out so far and I can’t tell if he has the tool post locked down or not lol
@@ballistic02 AS A HOSS IM SHIDDIN AN FARDIN MYSELF GOBBLES
The rack spacers are a great idea . You will need to fit both sides and the with your autel run a steering angle reset , where the ecu will learn the further angle you have added to its stored steering angle .
Also the steering angle sensor is normally mounted in the steering column. Leave it alone
As far as the rack freaking out. You can just re Calibrate the dead zone and give it a new limit. With the ecu.
🔥🔥Notification squad 🔥🔥
adams come up story like no other, man used to be mopping floors now hes giving out cars we love you so much big boy just such a humble guy, always hosting awsome events and meets, keeping the community together
“Giving out cars” you do realize he makes all his money off the giveaways right? That’s why he’s always trying to build another one.
@@kevinmenard6792 yeah it's a win for everyone involved, so what
Adam has never wanted for food and housing. His dad has a JDM collection.... One of his first cars was a BMW... He might have mopped some floors and earned some money, but he had a HUGE privilege net too land on. His girl is an Officer brat and they make 6 figures easy plus have unlimited access to slave labor and power. It's a great gig...
@@KeithZim Jdm collection is a stretch for his father😅 he had the honda and thats basically it. Adam gave him the r32 but still yes, right place and time.
Percs of having rich parents.
Mikes shot of the r32 taillights in the trailer was fire!!🔥🔥
insane how smooth mike is with the cam for being handheld
Its all about the large counterweights between his legs, perfectly counters the camera weight.
Mike is a walking gimbal.
Have you seen his biceps. He's packing some guns.
You may be the channel I’ve been subscribed to for the longest to be honest, blessed to see you up and running sh* man
I work as a tech at bm, end point need to be set into control unit when a new rack gets fitted, may be worth teaching in new end points via daignostic kit. Worth a shot.
your explanations of how ackerman, tie rod travel, bumpsteer, and just steering interactions work was INCREDIBLY well informed and well explained to the average car guy or layman!
The Caster i like set at 5.5
@@Benjamin-t5l what does that have to do with anything? also it depends on the vehicle entirely lol
@@Shadow0fd3ath24 Sorry i got super high don't remember posting that might have been trolling lol
His explanation of bump steer was wrong though.
Mike you nailed the shot @21:12. Great eye like always
Hey @AdamLZ I like the idea of the macheaned tie rod and i think it could work, so seeing as the supra is a freak child that Toyota and BMW created, and that most of the steering components are BMW factory parts there might be a way to reprogram the steering rack to allow itself not to lock up when you have the machined tie rod installed. Im a Bmw tec and when installing new steering racks into coustimers vehicles you tend to have to do a survice funtion/ adaptation with a diagnostic tool that carries the Bmw software. One of these adaptation tests is to calibrate the end to end lock on the rack. Now im not saying its a 100% doable thing but you could try doing a recalibration on the steering rack and see if it would bypass the binding that you get when the ignition is on. (I hope this might help you achieve your extra angle)! From Tony, viewing from the Caribbean👍
I would highly recommend using a dial indicator to determine how much throw you would need when turning the steering rack. A little too much throw could have the potential to cause problems later on in the design phase. I’m no engineer by any means but as a machinist in aviation I run into similar problems. Good luck and Godspeed Adam.
Once again providing the best video!
Miss seeing the bike racks on top of the cars back when you were heading to the skatepark with the boys you’ve come along way keep killin it LZ ❤
Same he actually came to my town to ride at some point during his Canada tour webisode 44
In theory, the steering rack is from bmw, so maybe just a basic adpatation with a scanner (hopefully the brand's scanner), so the ECU knows the new limits of the rack. Just a theory maybe it works.
I've worked for JTEKT which is a steering rack company: inside MCU software there usually is a "virtual rack end" line in order to stop the tie road from hitting too hard the housing and prevent destroying everything or have a jump between pinion and rack
Adam! For your lathe! Get yourself some CNMG insert bars and Sandvik CNMG inserts for cutting steel, also get a set of polished CNMG inserts (uncoated) for turning aluminum! Your machine tools look pretty old and newer tooling solutions will help you out with surface finish, speed and accuracy.
If the thread is small on one end of the adapter, you could use the lathe to bore it out and cut the new thread to match.
I was thinking this too
Thanks for teaching me why I need to buy the 300$ bump steer correction kit when lowering my car on coils….knowledge is key nd free thank you 🤝🏾
You should be able to re-teach the steering end stops for the rack with a computer or disconnect the battery and turning lock to lock and holding it on the stops for a few seconds. When you disconnect the battery you normally have to recalibrate the steering angle sensor as it will loose its positioning, like how you have to do the window stops. You should be able to make it work somehow.
I have made my own parallel steer steering and you have to have the new hole for the nuckle on both sides and then set the correct toe and the measure how much of the parallel steer is. It took me a solid week of testing before I finally hit perfect paralell stering. It is a lot more complicated then one might think when you start of. I had the same mindset. Makes you apreteate stuff like wisefab and how well don they are. The inner tire rod solution works great. I suggest the find a solution for that instead. That way people can drive in the street "normal" but still have that extra angle. But i admire your aspiration to want to create your own "angle kit". When things are hard to do you always learn a lot so go for it. I enjoy this technical videos 👍
This is insane! Great research for drifting. This will yield an incredible product eventually!
Hey Adam, we are over in Tampa, quite a few high end 3D Scanners and a myriad of 3d printers. Lets talk!
I work for bmw and I bet the idea would work for the rack spacers but you need to re-initialise the rack and tech in end stops!!! A basic diagnostic tool should be able to do that!
The lathe was my favorite tool in metal shop back in high school.
Usually this problem were the car limits the lock when it's turned on can be solved easily by doing a recalibration on the electronic power steering module, I do think you will need a specialized scanner for this... but you won't need to change any sensors or bypass any modules to be able to make the system understand that the rack has a bit more angle
I just had to do this with my F30, go into the EPS module and use the start up feature and you can relearn the values
Just a casual Mike appreciation post. Thank you for making this channel so much better
Crazy to think I’ve been watching Adam for 10 years great guy gotta love it
If you have a scan tool have you tried just re setting the steering angle calibration might let you go past the factory settings
Love these educational videos about angle and Ackerman 👍🏼
currently in the middle of building my VVT engine! all your videos have been so much help!! got a lot of similar parts as your last build. but got the Mazworx Main Caps right away. watching your vid definitely made me order those right away😂 love the content man!! happy to see it back!
A lot of the newer vehicle have steering angle sensor built into the clock spring. And if you had a factory scan tool then you could do a basic setting of the steering rack end stops.
21:12 man this gives such a good vibe
When you modify the throw of the rack and pinion you need to reprogram the steer angle sensor and it should work if the factory computer allows the extra angle.
The rotating part is called a chuck. You should make a backing plate for so your parts will have a consistent point of zero. And a magnetic feeler guage to get any run out from the part spinning.
I don’t think you would need to abandon the rack spacer idea. I can guarantee that you could reprogram whatever controls that rack to allow it to have more movement
8:45 bro I thought someone was ringing my doorbell wtf Mike 😂
if you have the room on the rim, tie rod sleeves are an easy and easy-to-get piece that significantly increase the tie rod strength. Literally you can turn more threads on the tie rod and use longer sleeves to make for a stronger setup that isn't impossible to find or more $$ to manufacture. oddroad guys do it all the time
rule of thumb with lathe work, avoid having twice the width of the tool in length poking out of the jaws, should remove some squealing. BUT allow atleast the width of the material in length into the jaws to bite onto to be safe
I remember all these original designs, you know 8 year old me was BEGGING for some merch. Nearly got a 335 for my first car too but got something reliable (aka slow) instead. You are my biggest inspiration in life
I’m not a bmw tech but I use to be a vw tech. If you wanted to try the rack spacer idea again try disconnected the battery and doing a discharge. Connect battery and hopefully the steering rack end stops unlearn for the rack. And then turn the wheel lock to lock and relearn the end stops. That’s how it would work on vw’s
Use a scan tool and relearn the steering angle sensor. Usually under adaptations tab
The look of the R32 with just the rear lights visible looks so mean I love it 👍👍
Toolmaker/machinist here. Use some sorta cutting lube when cutting aluminum, it'll go much smoother, your chips won't stick to your tool like that, and it won't make that noise if your spindle speed is correct. WD40 would work.
That sound of freedom behind him when promoting the merch fireeeeeee
Adam, need to order some dial indicators to indicate the part. Would be super helpful centering the part in the jaws. Also, don’t ever wear gloves and reach your hand into the lathe. Safety 101 with them is no loose clothes, short sleeve shirts, no jewelry, and no gloves. Basically anything that can get snagged because it will rip your limbs into the machine no problem.
Amen brother !
The sent it shirt goes crazy, it’s crazy how far you’ve come!
Soo weird. I saw a dream last night of Adam giving me LZ merch with that yellow/orange color and now seeing it in the video today. Trippy.😂
The red shirt looks so crisp it almost looks fake. Great job Mike!
most likely steering angle sensor is behind steering wheel on column. It can be calibrated with obd diagnostic tools, i wonder if that would give it more angle or just freak out more.
When you replace a steering angle sensor there is a relearn procedure. I'm sure you can plug in a bidirectional scanner and relearn the full lock to lock steering angle so the car doesn't cut you off before full lock.
On the bmw f30 chassis we use M4 front lower arms for more clearance
love how we get to witness some good R&Dinng
Good luck with your D-phase Adam!
When you are driving the rack wont limit you it is only when you are stopped on a g30
The supra has no "steering angle sensor", you need the Toyota ISTA or a capable scan tool to initialize it. It makes you steer left, hold it, then right, hold it, and then center. Then it finds the center point for the steering angle sensor value. I don't know if it would solve the problem though as I've only done it on stock racks and tie rods.
Legit learned something about steering angles today, great stuff
If he is talking logistics it’s best you don’t listen
if you want to be center its beter to put it into the drill bit part on the right side and clamp in when it's still in the drill part
Seeing Adam in the sent it shirt brings back memory’s 😂
The thing that I can appreciate about Adam is he actually knows the mechanics of how a vehicle works to a technicality unlike 95% of other car TH-camrs/vloggers.
I'm 3 min in and I'm In love with this @adamlz love the camera quality the flow of your explanations and also the rack with the merch!!! Huge improvements and I'm so engaged I had to write this!
You could try to recalibrate the steering angle sensor ….. might give you the extra steering you machined into the rack ends
Those squeals aren't terrible, but without coolant you need to be careful. if you had a way to use coolant on your parts, you could machine much more in a single pass.
Adam, they make 3D scanning software that utilizes the iPhone. Maybe look into one of those as an alternative. You can work any discrepancies out when designing
That shot of the gtr in the dark was 🔥 21:12
Senior R&D Engineer here, all of your statements are spot on haha. Problems are my life.
Get yourself an einstar or peel 2 3D scanner, bamboo labs X1 Carbon 3D printer and you can prototype most things you might need. No need for a super fancy scanner when FDM 3D printing isn't too accurate.
I was laughing so damn hard at this @13:09
Adam: Dial Caliper?
24MM Socket: Nahhhhh
The eps on the car can be recalibrated to allow for the new angle.
whenever you start to play with htg be carefull with it,people tested this unit in eu and after doing tests with the car after tune it randomly putted reverse gear and snapped everything in the drivetrain:')
there is if i remember correctly some more issues people had with it so seems like pretty garbage start for automatic transmission tune/unit
That GTR shot in the trailer holy shit Mike! Amazing!
Not sure how b58 ecu’s work but if it’s anything like an N54, inpa/ bmw software should be able to code anything you want out of the car
Can you not fit your milled tie rod and then recalibrate the steering angle sensor? it should allow it too freely turn until its max as it has the factory settings in its memory.
its crazy to think about the fact that this guys has been apart of more than half my life, in april i turn 20 and i started followers on feb 3th 2013
same here about to turn 21 next month and been watching him since i was 11
Reset the learned steering angle valve with a scanner. May be called steering angle adaption or something along those lines, once you find it the car will let u turn lock to lock and save those valves
This is very educational!! Thank you
Loving the GTR rear lights shot at 21:11
You should recalibrate the steering angle sensor so you can run full lock
Finally s13 missile gets to the lz compound🔥🔥🔥
Around what price will the bundle be? I’d love to get one but I’m poor lol
Adam is pioneering alot of product and definitely will be rich forever.....constantly developing. I need a job.
As a machinist, you should have a less longer fixation on your cutting tool soo it won't make that horrible noise. And I recommend using cutting oil soo it won't get too hot and not deform the piece your working on (sorry for my bad english)
Adam: I watched a video on TH-cam I think I can do it
Me doing stuff to my car😂
There is a free 2D modelling program called Linkage that might be useful to make the first test plates to relocate the tie rods and make a better guess where to place the holes
Finally, an 8hp build.
Really enjoyed the technicality of this video 👌
i'm so freaking bummed that Europe can't enter for this give-away. Would be so damn special to have an LZ car in the Netherlands. Safe drivings to the one who wins it tho!
Love what you do adam
Learning so much lately
I think you hit the oscillation window on the tie rod due to extreme position/range. If you didn’t hit the window then the rod wouldn’t have a bending moment and buckle.
Source: I used to be an engineer at a suspension&link supplier
Yo Adam, have you seen the video of the NA 12 rotor. It’s in the shape of a literal W, or 2 V’s, and 4 rotors in each row. Sounds wicked as hell
hobopiss13 made it back to Florida 🎉
I’m like 98% positive that Wisefab makes the spacers for the A90? You probably have them already. Their kits should come with the spacers for the A90 and the E90?