I've noticed that dame issue over the years. I've had great luck with the cast iron carburetor. And almost always had leak's on the pot metal carburetor. In the past I've checked with a file and then used Indian Head to seal it up after rebuild just because of this same design flaw. Great advice and I always thought I must have done something wrong in the past. But seems it's not me it's just junk from the factory.
Have a 8-N and for decades that tractor was hard to start. As a last resort I tapped on the carburetor one day with a wrench before trying to start it . Holy moly it started right off . Has a sticky float I believe now.
Another quick fix is Aviation Permatex to fill in low spots. It stays tacky for a very long time, and will fill in up to .010” more or less. If they still make it…🤔 makes for a mess on the next rebuild though…😜
I have the 4 bolt version of this (Z12158 maybe). I was getting major leakage. Found a crack bottom half wall of float area. Opened it up and the floats were crushed and split. Then i mated the surfaces without the gasket and i have an 1/8 inch bend just before the 2 bolts on the float end. Not sure it i could warp it back with some heat, then fill the crack. Don't want to drop the $400 on a replacement, this is a min dozer/trencher (1970s maybe).
I have a 45-50 case sc tractor. When we pulled it after 8 years of sitting in 2020 it stated up and idled and ran fine. Now it bogs and doesn't run right. Still runs but not enough power. I'll have to check if thats the problem. Thank you for the video.
Ok! my carb leaking gas from front. Purrs like a kitten only with choke three quarter engaged. Am going to try this. Everyone tells me it is starved for fuel so must check adjustment of float. Don't know the specs for this but hopefully will figure it out. Can't be by trial and error. Am sick and tired of taking this carb off and on. 1966 IH 606 with original odd duck carb.
You may be my salvation... 1950 gardnerdenver pullbehind aircompressor ..105 cfm... whz model with a 6b230 ci buda engine ... carb is a huge zenith..OK bow that I got that out lol I had it running but carb was a mess finally I realized float was leaking .. by the way trying to resolder float can result in desolder completely.. I knew about the way carbs can warp and in my enthusiasm some how I ended up breaking the float tower loose .. it has been a few years ago and I think possibly I may have gotten the tower jury rigged back on but I can't seem to find the ventury still need a float and the round plate with the carb number on it is unreadable.. ...because it is an aircompressor and has the unloaded. Feature ..which I'm not really up on so much I am hesitant to use a different carb .... any ideas ?
Zenith company is still around...(www.zenithfuelsystems.com/) try calling here: "For more information and a free catalog, please email Mattie Bellamy or call 276-645-8619." They may have resource info on it for you.
Can you answer this question? On an International BN, Marvel Schebler made two different carburetors, one for distillate or kerosene (TSX-156) and the other for gasoline (TSX-157). All replacements resemble the TSX-165 (replaced with what was on when purchased).Could this cause the tractor to sputter and stall and not run properly? And where can I purchase the proper carb (TSX-157). Thank you for this video it explains why the old crab was leaking.
I've got an IH 656 that I have been fighting a leak somewhere in the carb. I'll have to pull it off yet again and check the housing, but theres a front end loader in the way that makes it not so easy to get to.
Can you put silicone to fill the gap like poly urethane maybe won't be good idea. I will try your method thanks i have a leak at the mouth of the carburetor
My son has an International 184 with the same problem 👍 Also are you familiar with governor issues? If so he changed his governor and the tractor wouldn’t start after that, backfiring out the intake, I pulled it, rotated the gear 180 and it’s doing the same thing. Thanks
Thank you for the Zenith carb video . Are the early cast iron carbs so similar that they use the same rebuild kit ? Its on a Wisconson AEN . A good rebuild video would be great .
Yes there are many ways to clean it. Really it depends on how severe the cancer is... there is all sorts of great working solvents out there. We sometimes use electrolysis . Even Using a handful of nuts or ball bearings and shaking the tank (use magnet to get them back out). Once its clean, we use a quality tank liner if the tank seems thin or has pin holes in places... (we use RedKote mostly) But follow the directions religiously!! (a sloooow cheap but great method is using white vinegar and water. Use half and half, fill the tank with it or submerge it in a bath. It will have to set at least 5 to 7 days for best results.!!)
Definitely check the surfaces for flatness!! And yes, it can be a high float setting. To set, hold the half with the float upside down (float should be on top when holding it) the float should be set to almost level with the surface
Having problem where I can't get to idle right(international 263 engine-updraft carb) need to have choke pulled. Also in winter at times it kills and does ice up -Help -Help
Good evening, my question is about the float spring placement? Is there a wrong way? Should it be pushing up twards the needle, or pushing down? I usually take a pic when doing these but this time I didn't. I recently rebuilt my zenith carb and now it seems pretty wet on the gasket. Thank you for any help. Dennis
Thank you for the advice, actually I had a distributor issue, so I just converted to electronic ignition , scrapped the points. I took your advice, took out the spring, Carb floats are doing the job! Possibly it was rebuilt before and they added the spring to it, it's working fine now. Have a great day! Dennis
Can you make a video on how to adjust governor on a zenith carb, I have one on a Wisconsin engine, in a bobcat m610, don’t really understand how it works
i have a 4000 ford 3cyl have never been abel to get it to open up without choke being on some had this thing apart 3 times ranall the orfices good im at wits end have never had this much trouble
@@AtlastaFarmCo no sir its a rotten zenith with no high speed adjustment got some kind of diaghphram on bottom had this thing apart so many times screwws are gonna wear out clend and reamed ever orfice in it time and again
@@charlietanner6211 you may have a zenith replacement for the Holley. Does it look like the one in this link? www.ebay.com/itm/393418516265?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wtx8sndrr8m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=1vFVgjZaRpq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If so most of those do have adjustments but for whatever reason whatever drunk designed the thing... Decided to put brass caps over the adjustments.. However there are some cheaper versions that have brass buttons like a BB instead of an adjustment. And those suck.. Those come down to issues with the diaphragm. Either it has a pinhole, or the disc/spring mechanism on the diaphragm has a problem
Hey Just came across your video. I have a zenith carburetor 12098B L63 off my Wisconsin VH4D1 engine. It pours out the mouth of carb. I’m going to try and plane it down with the block first and try rebuild kit. If not telling customer to purchase a carburetor replacement. Any good decent replacement carburetors just in case. Excellent video tutorial Thank you
Best thing to do is get a zenith replacement you can go either to Steiner tractor or the carburetorstore.com or direct to zenith out of the Tennessee plant. However zenith is one of the most expensive and expect to spend $400 plus
Sure thing. I think you left some voicemails. Sorry I have been running 4 directions at once and am more than way behind on returning calls. (No secretary for a while now)
@@AtlastaFarmCo no I haven’t left any voicemails I sent u an email couple days ago just explaining the same thing about lack of lift power since came across a valve with a wire running to it which is the same wire that goes to the control lever?
I just got a farmall A i think close to the same carb as that one and it seems to be overflowing ,the wing nut at the bottom is that just a drain valve or ? i tried to find a tuning video just on farmall A carb,But havent found yet,ill get out an find out what name brand it is,great video more to watch :)
If it is a true wing nut and has a hole in the center (looks like the nut turns a pipe) then yes that is a drain. However If it's just a standard wing nut that looks like it just turns a screw then most likely you have a later version of that carburetor and that screw is your flow adjustment.
thanks so much for the reply,i took it off today its a phillips has made in the usa right under the name ,i didnt know but tht was the main adjustment and it was shut closed,i went ahead and opened up the carb,someone has already been inside,and has all the other screws stripped including t,he needle valve body,i went ahead an ordered a after market carb,i may send this to someone to rebuild.well someone with the proper tools an knowledge,heck the kits was as much as the aftermarket carb,
i have a farmall h it floods constantly and when i do get it to finally run it gets frost on the out side where it bolts to the manifold no matter what the air temp out side is . ive set both screws and adjusted them while its running and no change the best i can get it to run is with the bottom screw all the way in tight if i choke it to kill it gas poors out of it or when im trying to start it and stop cranking the engine gas poors out of the carb in short i need your help its no good to me if it wont run
I have the newer style Zenith 68 series which has the extra screws which is nice about not deforming the main body like in this video but I have a stripped idle mixture screw in the main body, not the screw itself. Cannot seam to find much on net about this. Tap size etc. Anyone know?
yeesh.. late to reply,, but if your still in need,, Zenith is still manufactured in Tennessee... you can google the manufacturer and give them a call.. we used to call them often a few years ago.. sorry I dont have the number in front of me at the moment
Unfortunately we no longer deal with parts :-( however first on the list would be contact Steiner tractor. If they do not have it the most direct route would be to contact zenith carburetor directly. Zenith is located in Tennessee. Unfortunately I do not have their number memorized but they do have a website. This company actually owns the patents and manufacturers replacement marvel schebler carburetors
Recommend going to an online John Deere dealer and looking up your model in the parts section. This is the most definitive method to find the part number. You can then search that part number in google to find a good replacement
either your flow valve is not open enough, you have a restriction in the fuel feed to the carburetor, the float is sticking too low or adjusted too low, or the main jet is clogged and lastly air leaks either in the throttle/choke shafts etc.. or between the two haves of the carburetor itself.
@@jerryrigd4790 that's the main jet. Metering jets are normally tiny brass screws with a small hole in them. There should be at least one in the tube where your main fuel adjustment is. Normally your adjustments have a needle on the end of the screw.. those needles fit in the brass jets. Like a mini valve in a faucet
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบ 8 ทีมสุดท้าย] - ช่วงเช้า](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bXFWzzy4UJw/mqdefault.jpg)
Was pulling out what little hair I have left trying to figure out why gas was running out of the intake. Thanks a bunch!!!
No Problem
Thanks I was having that very same problem I believe you just saved me from having to buy a new one.
Great to hear!
Great video and advice! Noticed this same problem on my 66 Case backhoe
Fantastic advice... New gaskets etc on my Cub still leaked.. Be doing this check on my Cub carb tomorrow.
I've noticed that dame issue over the years. I've had great luck with the cast iron carburetor. And almost always had leak's on the pot metal carburetor. In the past I've checked with a file and then used Indian Head to seal it up after rebuild just because of this same design flaw. Great advice and I always thought I must have done something wrong in the past. But seems it's not me it's just junk from the factory.
Have a 8-N and for decades that tractor was hard to start. As a last resort I tapped on the carburetor one day with a wrench before trying to start it . Holy moly it started right off . Has a sticky float I believe now.
Thanks again from Coats, NC. have this exact problem as we speak.
Thanks mate you saved me money I don't have! Cheers from Iron Rock Nova Scotia Canada.
Glad we could help
Great tip, thanks!!
Great info. Good job
Thank you. I need to tackle a carb on a BN.
Thanks, great video
I have seen that on small engines but hadnt thought of other engines
True on all split shell carburetors
Great info!
Thanks a bunch.
You're welcome!
Another quick fix is Aviation Permatex to fill in low spots. It stays tacky for a very long time, and will fill in up to .010” more or less. If they still make it…🤔 makes for a mess on the next rebuild though…😜
Very interesting!
Awesome info
I have the 4 bolt version of this (Z12158 maybe). I was getting major leakage. Found a crack bottom half wall of float area. Opened it up and the floats were crushed and split. Then i mated the surfaces without the gasket and i have an 1/8 inch bend just before the 2 bolts on the float end. Not sure it i could warp it back with some heat, then fill the crack. Don't want to drop the $400 on a replacement, this is a min dozer/trencher (1970s maybe).
I have a 45-50 case sc tractor. When we pulled it after 8 years of sitting in 2020 it stated up and idled and ran fine. Now it bogs and doesn't run right. Still runs but not enough power. I'll have to check if thats the problem. Thank you for the video.
Thanks Y'all
Very welcome
Ok! my carb leaking gas from front. Purrs like a kitten only with choke three quarter engaged. Am going to try this. Everyone tells me it is starved for fuel so must check adjustment of float. Don't know the specs for this but hopefully will figure it out. Can't be by trial and error. Am sick and tired of taking this carb off and on. 1966 IH 606 with original odd duck carb.
You may be my salvation... 1950 gardnerdenver pullbehind aircompressor ..105 cfm... whz model with a 6b230 ci buda engine ... carb is a huge zenith..OK bow that I got that out lol I had it running but carb was a mess finally I realized float was leaking .. by the way trying to resolder float can result in desolder completely.. I knew about the way carbs can warp and in my enthusiasm some how I ended up breaking the float tower loose .. it has been a few years ago and I think possibly I may have gotten the tower jury rigged back on but I can't seem to find the ventury still need a float and the round plate with the carb number on it is unreadable.. ...because it is an aircompressor and has the unloaded. Feature ..which I'm not really up on so much I am hesitant to use a different carb .... any ideas ?
Zenith company is still around...(www.zenithfuelsystems.com/) try calling here: "For more information and a free catalog, please email Mattie Bellamy or call 276-645-8619." They may have resource info on it for you.
Can you answer this question?
On an International BN, Marvel Schebler made two different carburetors, one for distillate or kerosene (TSX-156) and the other for gasoline (TSX-157). All replacements resemble the TSX-165 (replaced with what was on when purchased).Could this cause the tractor to sputter and stall and not run properly? And where can I purchase the proper carb (TSX-157). Thank you for this video it explains why the old crab was leaking.
I've got an IH 656 that I have been fighting a leak somewhere in the carb. I'll have to pull it off yet again and check the housing, but theres a front end loader in the way that makes it not so easy to get to.
Yeesh.. yep front end loaders are absolutely awesome and great tools unfortunately the caveat is they are in the way of doing any simple servicing 😭
Have a satoh. 650g , runs on either when applied, gas goes into float but won't run by itself
I have this same carburetor on my 1930 model A and having the same issues. Can you tell me what the adjustments should be?
Thank you good job
Welcome 😊
Can you put silicone to fill the gap like poly urethane maybe won't be good idea.
I will try your method thanks i have a leak at the mouth of the carburetor
ZENITH GOING TO TRY YOUR METHOD
THANK YOU
THANK YOU......
You're welcome!
THANK YOU.
You're welcome!
My son has an International 184 with the same problem 👍 Also are you familiar with governor issues? If so he changed his governor and the tractor wouldn’t start after that, backfiring out the intake, I pulled it, rotated the gear 180 and it’s doing the same thing.
Thanks
I have a 41 case with that same car, used on many and there wonderful. Mine is acting like a jackass
Thank you for the Zenith carb video . Are the early cast iron carbs so similar that they use the same rebuild kit ? Its on a Wisconson AEN . A good rebuild video would be great .
Similar, but do use different kits
I have a Ford 9N with a rusty gas tank. Is there any way to clean it or does it just need to be replaced? Great video!
Yes there are many ways to clean it. Really it depends on how severe the cancer is... there is all sorts of great working solvents out there. We sometimes use electrolysis . Even Using a handful of nuts or ball bearings and shaking the tank (use magnet to get them back out). Once its clean, we use a quality tank liner if the tank seems thin or has pin holes in places... (we use RedKote mostly) But follow the directions religiously!! (a sloooow cheap but great method is using white vinegar and water. Use half and half, fill the tank with it or submerge it in a bath. It will have to set at least 5 to 7 days for best results.!!)
@@AtlastaFarmCo Thank you! I love the Ford 9N videos! Have a Merry Christmas Everyone!🎄
Good vid.
I have a allis CA, carb is dripping out of the mouth of the carb,, is the float the problem? Errol from Canada, thankyou
Definitely check the surfaces for flatness!! And yes, it can be a high float setting. To set, hold the half with the float upside down (float should be on top when holding it) the float should be set to almost level with the surface
Having problem where I can't get to idle right(international 263 engine-updraft carb) need to have choke pulled. Also in winter at times it kills and does ice up -Help -Help
Try this... th-cam.com/video/6tDdkx5c0TI/w-d-xo.html
Good evening, my question is about the float spring placement? Is there a wrong way? Should it be pushing up twards the needle, or pushing down? I usually take a pic when doing these but this time I didn't. I recently rebuilt my zenith carb and now it seems pretty wet on the gasket. Thank you for any help. Dennis
Unfortunately I am not sure what model carb you have. Not many have a "spring" or Clip. And most that do, do not even require it in the first place.
Thank you for the advice, actually I had a distributor issue, so I just converted to electronic ignition , scrapped the points. I took your advice, took out the spring, Carb floats are doing the job! Possibly it was rebuilt before and they added the spring to it, it's working fine now. Have a great day! Dennis
Can you make a video on how to adjust governor on a zenith carb, I have one on a Wisconsin engine, in a bobcat m610, don’t really understand how it works
Yeah // Zeniths are fun (sarcasm lol) we will eventually make one.
Hi when I start my engine my carburettor loose some gas through the mouth? Did you have an idea and the smoke are very black
i have a 4000 ford 3cyl have never been abel to get it to open up without choke being on some had this thing apart 3 times ranall the orfices good im at wits end have never had this much trouble
Which carb are you working with? Is it the Holley?
@@AtlastaFarmCo no sir its a rotten zenith with no high speed adjustment got some kind of diaghphram on bottom had this thing apart so many times screwws are gonna wear out clend and reamed ever orfice in it time and again
zenith has a diagraphnon on bottom@@AtlastaFarmCo
@@charlietanner6211 you may have a zenith replacement for the Holley. Does it look like the one in this link? www.ebay.com/itm/393418516265?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wtx8sndrr8m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=1vFVgjZaRpq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If so most of those do have adjustments but for whatever reason whatever drunk designed the thing... Decided to put brass caps over the adjustments.. However there are some cheaper versions that have brass buttons like a BB instead of an adjustment. And those suck.. Those come down to issues with the diaphragm. Either it has a pinhole, or the disc/spring mechanism on the diaphragm has a problem
Hey Just came across your video. I have a zenith carburetor 12098B L63 off my Wisconsin VH4D1 engine. It pours out the mouth of carb. I’m going to try and plane it down with the block first and try rebuild kit. If not telling customer to purchase a carburetor replacement. Any good decent replacement carburetors just in case. Excellent video tutorial Thank you
Best thing to do is get a zenith replacement you can go either to Steiner tractor or the carburetorstore.com or direct to zenith out of the Tennessee plant. However zenith is one of the most expensive and expect to spend $400 plus
Farmall 140 cam/governor timing.
If the float is properly set , the gasoline level should not reach the gasket seam .
that is only true if the tractor always stays level...better stay out of ditches and off hills
Hi Matt hope you are well and COVID not causing to much trouble I was wondering if I could ask so questions regarding the Ford 655 many thanks Richard
Sure thing. I think you left some voicemails. Sorry I have been running 4 directions at once and am more than way behind on returning calls. (No secretary for a while now)
@@AtlastaFarmCo no I haven’t left any voicemails I sent u an email couple days ago just explaining the same thing about lack of lift power since came across a valve with a wire running to it which is the same wire that goes to the control lever?
I just got a farmall A i think close to the same carb as that one and it seems to be overflowing ,the wing nut at the bottom is that just a drain valve or ? i tried to find a tuning video just on farmall A carb,But havent found yet,ill get out an find out what name brand it is,great video more to watch :)
If it is a true wing nut and has a hole in the center (looks like the nut turns a pipe) then yes that is a drain. However If it's just a standard wing nut that looks like it just turns a screw then most likely you have a later version of that carburetor and that screw is your flow adjustment.
thanks so much for the reply,i took it off today its a phillips has made in the usa right under the name ,i didnt know but tht was the main adjustment and it was shut closed,i went ahead and opened up the carb,someone has already been inside,and has all the other screws stripped including t,he needle valve body,i went ahead an ordered a after market carb,i may send this to someone to rebuild.well someone with the proper tools an knowledge,heck the kits was as much as the aftermarket carb,
i have a farmall h it floods constantly and when i do get it to finally run it gets frost on the out side where it bolts to the manifold no matter what the air temp out side is . ive set both screws and adjusted them while its running and no change the best i can get it to run is with the bottom screw all the way in tight if i choke it to kill it gas poors out of it or when im trying to start it and stop cranking the engine gas poors out of the carb in short i need your help its no good to me if it wont run
I have the newer style Zenith 68 series which has the extra screws which is nice about not deforming the main body like in this video but I have a stripped idle mixture screw in the main body, not the screw itself. Cannot seam to find much on net about this. Tap size etc. Anyone know?
yeesh.. late to reply,, but if your still in need,, Zenith is still manufactured in Tennessee... you can google the manufacturer and give them a call.. we used to call them often a few years ago.. sorry I dont have the number in front of me at the moment
Can you rebuild my vh4d carb for bobcat 610?
Sorry for the long wait. Unfortunately no, we no longer are doing repairs for the public.
Tsx713 marvel-schebler looking for this carb or a z14991 I do need one Ty Sonny Poteet
Unfortunately we no longer deal with parts :-( however first on the list would be contact Steiner tractor. If they do not have it the most direct route would be to contact zenith carburetor directly. Zenith is located in Tennessee. Unfortunately I do not have their number memorized but they do have a website. This company actually owns the patents and manufacturers replacement marvel schebler carburetors
Needs a rebuild kit
What's the carb on a 1965 JD 1010 4 cyl gas?
Recommend going to an online John Deere dealer and looking up your model in the parts section. This is the most definitive method to find the part number. You can then search that part number in google to find a good replacement
Hey man I have a IH 184 that I can’t get to fire unless I cover the carbs with my hand I can’t find much about these things online any idea?
either your flow valve is not open enough, you have a restriction in the fuel feed to the carburetor, the float is sticking too low or adjusted too low, or the main jet is clogged and lastly air leaks either in the throttle/choke shafts etc.. or between the two haves of the carburetor itself.
I rebuilt the carburetor on my Farmall H now I have major problems, there is a video on my channel, please comment any suggestions
My first guess would be a leak between the mating surfaces. Or a missing metering jet.
@@AtlastaFarmCo is the metering jet a small brass tube about 1/8" dia. and about 1" long threaded on 1 end? if so it's there , I will resurfacing
@@jerryrigd4790 that's the main jet. Metering jets are normally tiny brass screws with a small hole in them. There should be at least one in the tube where your main fuel adjustment is. Normally your adjustments have a needle on the end of the screw.. those needles fit in the brass jets. Like a mini valve in a faucet
CLEAN UP GREEN GAS PUMP IS WORKING NO GAS IN CYC RUN ON STARING FLUID HELP
I think my 1953 Jubilee came with a zenith carb