I have 2 allrounders and 1 27 liter conical. They are great! One thing I do is, when I am transferring, I move my spunding valve to the gas post on my keg. I just set my co2 regulator 2 or 3 psi greater than the spunding valve. That way the pressure is always maintained on the beer and it ensures a slow gentle transfer. Not sure if it makes all that much difference, but that's what I do.
I brew both ales and lagers with my All Rounder, and I've mothballed my other fermenters. Pressure fermenting completes in 1/3 to 1/2 the time, allowing me to brew more faster, a very nice plus. It's also clear so you it's easier to monitor your processes as well. There are other advantages as well, like porting the lid for using a Temp Twister.
Yes the lid can sometimes be hard to remove. If it's really stuck I'll just grab a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Couple of taps and the lid usually comes off easily.
I have a question about transferring through the float connection. What if you don’t have a filter and have the tube connected right to the float. How is the liquid going to go into keg?
I just received mine yesterday thanks for your great explanation on set up as the instructions that come with it are not that good all I have to do now is get it all put together and try a brew in it 🍺
Males me want to get one to naturally bulk carbonate wine in. First I’d Ferment wine in regular fermenter and after the wine clears and stabilizes rack into one of these. Add sugar and let carbonate naturally for a few weeks safely in this and then bottle. 😮
Help please! Every time I am transferring beer out when I get down to half or less all of the sudden it will nucleat all the crud on the bottom bubbles up into the beer I have tried gravity transfer and by pushing gas into it
It's also almost impossible to open it after a fermentation because the locking ring is stuck so tight and it's impossible to get a grip around the body of the fermenter
Not really a solution for everyone, but I have some wood clamps that I can use to get some extra leverage. That being said a redesign of the lid is probably a good idea.
The best way would be to weigh water into the all rounder and mark it with a sharpie. Then line up the tape with your markers. Otherwise just line the start of the volume marker with the dot on the bottom of the fermenter and try to keep it straight as you apply it. Should be accurate within a liter or so if you do that.
Hi, I’m about to get either the Allrounder or the Tri conical. What would you recommend?? Maybe I could get two Allrounders for the price of one tri conical… Might also be a good idea.
@@fokkedeboer2727 because it's arguably the easiest one to clean. All these gimmicks to do with harvesting yeast and dry hopping can easily achieved with the smallest bit of ingenuity. The nooks and crannies of the tri conical provide harbours for bacteria and complexity which can go wrong. A floating dip tub will enable you to leave the yeast and trub in the bottom for harvesting. Add some sterile water and just swill it out. For dry hopping, a hop sock with a magnet placed inside can be secured to the top of the fermenter once filled using a second magnet on the outside. Then when you wanna drop the hops in, just pull the magnet off. For me I value simplicity. And the all-rounder looks so easy to clean.
I agree with @tomar3, the all rounder does everything the tri-conical does. Unless you want to easily harvest yeast my vote would go to the all rounder. Cheers
What's your best trick for keeping the filter screen submerged during closed transfer. Mine keeps floating and causing turbulence sucking in CO2 as well as beer during transfer.
A better way to close transfer your pressure fermented beer. 1. Check the pressure in the fermenter with the spunding valve+gauge. It is probably not on the fermentation pressure after cold crash. 2. Put the spunding valve on the keg gas inlet. Regulate the pressure to the same as your fermenter. 3. Connect fermenter to the keg beer to beer. There will be no flow. 4. Put CO2 on the fermenter. A littler higher than your spunding valve on the keg. 5. Now the beer will flow slowly from the fermenter to the keg. The keg has the same counterpressure as the beer equilibrium pressure, so it will not foam. If you let your carbonated beer flow into an open keg it will start foaming. You will get alot of foam out of your safety valve or out of the lid, if you open it. With counter pressure there is minimal foam. And no air/oxygen kan ever get in to the keg. 6 Adjust the CO2 in to the fermenter or the spunding valve out frpm the keg, if you have to, but remember to always have a counter pressure in the keg.
Yes, most pressurized fermenters should be hydrotested for safety reasons. Fill it with water and hook up your co2 tank. Slowly raise the pressure to 4 bar and then leave it there for 1 minute. If you do not ferment under pressure or perform closed co2 transfers this is not necessary. Cheers
A better alternative to the webbing for the 30l is a "root nurse" brand, round, 30l fabric pot. It's cheaper, it takes zero set up, it keeps the beer in the dark, and it's just as easy if not easier to carry with the 2 study handles on the side of the pot. Cost around £4.
Couldn't you put the spunding valve on the gas post of the keg during closed transfer instead of opening the lid or PRV? All you would need is a slight difference in pressure to move the fluid, and you have a guarantee no oxygen gets in.
@@graintoglass it's a pot still for now want to convert to reflux asap need to know temperature,s maybe recommend a good place to buy supplies I do appreciate your help thank you a good way to heat it up I live on a generator
I love hot boiling water and this is not for me. I bought ss 304 milk things (50 litre and 30 litre) I'm doing my ferments with them. Later cleaning with the hottest boiling water & washing soda & lots of water & starsan. I said bye bye to my plastic fermenters because they always smells like the last batch... This fermenter is good but cleaning with 50c water is not enought. Smells like all cheap plastic buckets. Ferment under pressure is a good thing but it costs as much as a ss 304 milk bucket. Buy milk thing, drill stainless steel cap and insert corn keg posts and ferment easily at 15psi. milk buckets 1mm ss like corny kegs.
I have 2 allrounders and 1 27 liter conical. They are great! One thing I do is, when I am transferring, I move my spunding valve to the gas post on my keg. I just set my co2 regulator 2 or 3 psi greater than the spunding valve. That way the pressure is always maintained on the beer and it ensures a slow gentle transfer. Not sure if it makes all that much difference, but that's what I do.
That's a great tip! Cheers
I brew both ales and lagers with my All Rounder, and I've mothballed my other fermenters. Pressure fermenting completes in 1/3 to 1/2 the time, allowing me to brew more faster, a very nice plus. It's also clear so you it's easier to monitor your processes as well. There are other advantages as well, like porting the lid for using a Temp Twister.
It's been my go to fermenter for the last 6 months. wish I knew about these when I first started brewing.
I just got one and it's great! I learned the hard way to not tighten the lid to much but have had no problem with the unit.
Yes the lid can sometimes be hard to remove. If it's really stuck I'll just grab a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Couple of taps and the lid usually comes off easily.
Best video on the internet on how to use this thing
Really appreciate it!
I have a few of them, they are amazing. I'm so lucky I'm in Australia and KegLand orders are usually on a few days away :)
That's awesome!
Great overview!
Thank you!
I have a question about transferring through the float connection. What if you don’t have a filter and have the tube connected right to the float. How is the liquid going to go into keg?
Hi, I often times don't bother with the filter and it transfers just fine. The filter is handy if you dry hopped the beer without a muslin bag.
I just received mine yesterday thanks for your great explanation on set up as the instructions that come with it are not that good all I have to do now is get it all put together and try a brew in it 🍺
Glad to hear our video was useful. Enjoy your new toy. Cheers
Males me want to get one to naturally bulk carbonate wine in. First I’d Ferment wine in regular fermenter and after the wine clears and stabilizes rack into one of these. Add sugar and let carbonate naturally for a few weeks safely in this and then bottle. 😮
Help please! Every time I am transferring beer out when I get down to half or less all of the sudden it will nucleat all the crud on the bottom bubbles up into the beer I have tried gravity transfer and by pushing gas into it
Hi, can you explain in more detail what the problem is? Is it the floating ball getting stuck on the side of the Fermzilla?
No I'm mid transfer and all the sludge bubbles up @@graintoglass
It's also almost impossible to open it after a fermentation because the locking ring is stuck so tight and it's impossible to get a grip around the body of the fermenter
Not really a solution for everyone, but I have some wood clamps that I can use to get some extra leverage. That being said a redesign of the lid is probably a good idea.
Did you purge keg and transfer jumper of co2 before filling ?
Yes I always purge the keg with co2 before transferring in the beer. Cheers
Put your 15psi spud valve on the co2 inlet on the keg - and you will have a closed loop only Co2 transfer...
Good idea!
Any good information on how to install the gallon marker tape?
The best way would be to weigh water into the all rounder and mark it with a sharpie. Then line up the tape with your markers. Otherwise just line the start of the volume marker with the dot on the bottom of the fermenter and try to keep it straight as you apply it. Should be accurate within a liter or so if you do that.
Hi, I’m about to get either the Allrounder or the Tri conical. What would you recommend?? Maybe I could get two Allrounders for the price of one tri conical… Might also be a good idea.
Get the all rounder
@@tomar3 thanks for the hint, but could you elaborate on the why?
@@fokkedeboer2727 because it's arguably the easiest one to clean. All these gimmicks to do with harvesting yeast and dry hopping can easily achieved with the smallest bit of ingenuity. The nooks and crannies of the tri conical provide harbours for bacteria and complexity which can go wrong.
A floating dip tub will enable you to leave the yeast and trub in the bottom for harvesting. Add some sterile water and just swill it out.
For dry hopping, a hop sock with a magnet placed inside can be secured to the top of the fermenter once filled using a second magnet on the outside. Then when you wanna drop the hops in, just pull the magnet off.
For me I value simplicity. And the all-rounder looks so easy to clean.
@@tomar3 thank you, that seems like valid reasons to me!
I agree with @tomar3, the all rounder does everything the tri-conical does. Unless you want to easily harvest yeast my vote would go to the all rounder. Cheers
What's your best trick for keeping the filter screen submerged during closed transfer. Mine keeps floating and causing turbulence sucking in CO2 as well as beer during transfer.
Ever since I cut the tubing short I haven't run into that issue. Is your floating stainless ball getting caught on the sides of the fermenter?
Stainless steel nut on key ring clip
A better way to close transfer your pressure fermented beer.
1. Check the pressure in the fermenter with the spunding valve+gauge. It is probably not on the fermentation pressure after cold crash.
2. Put the spunding valve on the keg gas inlet. Regulate the pressure to the same as your fermenter.
3. Connect fermenter to the keg beer to beer. There will be no flow.
4. Put CO2 on the fermenter. A littler higher than your spunding valve on the keg.
5. Now the beer will flow slowly from the fermenter to the keg. The keg has the same counterpressure as the beer equilibrium pressure, so it will not foam. If you let your carbonated beer flow into an open keg it will start foaming. You will get alot of foam out of your safety valve or out of the lid, if you open it. With counter pressure there is minimal foam. And no air/oxygen kan ever get in to the keg.
6 Adjust the CO2 in to the fermenter or the spunding valve out frpm the keg, if you have to, but remember to always have a counter pressure in the keg.
I've meant to try this method but never got around to it. The way I do it now I never get foam though. Cheers and thanks for the tip!
@@graintoglass I pessure ferment in a stainless steel jeg. To full carbonation. So it will foam without counter pressure.
Is it true they have to be tested every 2 years? (psi)
Yes, most pressurized fermenters should be hydrotested for safety reasons. Fill it with water and hook up your co2 tank. Slowly raise the pressure to 4 bar and then leave it there for 1 minute. If you do not ferment under pressure or perform closed co2 transfers this is not necessary. Cheers
@@graintoglass thanks for the reply and info
@@davegriffin7979 Cheers!
A better alternative to the webbing for the 30l is a "root nurse" brand, round, 30l fabric pot. It's cheaper, it takes zero set up, it keeps the beer in the dark, and it's just as easy if not easier to carry with the 2 study handles on the side of the pot. Cost around £4.
That's a great idea for carrying the fermzilla and keeping it in the dark.
Couldn't you put the spunding valve on the gas post of the keg during closed transfer instead of opening the lid or PRV? All you would need is a slight difference in pressure to move the fluid, and you have a guarantee no oxygen gets in.
Yes you could definitely do that. Great tip!
I'm looking for someone to teach me how to use my still l live near Redding California any help
I'm not to familiar with distilling unfortunately. What still do you have?
@@graintoglass it's a pot still for now want to convert to reflux asap need to know temperature,s maybe recommend a good place to buy supplies I do appreciate your help thank you a good way to heat it up I live on a generator
@@garyking6423 Sorry I can't help. Have you checked out homedistiller.org ? Cheers
@@graintoglass thanks
😅
I love hot boiling water and this is not for me. I bought ss 304 milk things (50 litre and 30 litre) I'm doing my ferments with them. Later cleaning with the hottest boiling water & washing soda & lots of water & starsan. I said bye bye to my plastic fermenters because they always smells like the last batch... This fermenter is good but cleaning with 50c water is not enought. Smells like all cheap plastic buckets. Ferment under pressure is a good thing but it costs as much as a ss 304 milk bucket. Buy milk thing, drill stainless steel cap and insert corn keg posts and ferment easily at 15psi. milk buckets 1mm ss like corny kegs.
How much are you paying for these milk churns? 🤔
I bet the mailman had red hair.
Dad?
@@graintoglass Yes Son, I am your Father.