I don't see how your channel only has 40,000 subscribers honda street garage is awesome I have watched almost all 80 of your videos they are very informative and have helped me building my ls vtec because I have been out of the game for about 8 years so I am kinda rusty on my honda motors.. keep up the awesome work !
No problem brother keep doing what you love and this channel will blow up.. do yall still sell honda street garage shirts? I would like to purchase some if you could hook me up with a link or something.. thanks bro
One of the favorite things I do every time I have a GSR engine in something is swap the stock manifold for a Skunk2/Type R style unit. Not only do you get more top end power with very minimal low end losses (if properly tuned) but it also makes it a ton easier every time you need to pull the head because the intake can just stay on. I'm constantly working on my builds, so ARP head studs and a smaller manifold are pretty much requirements for me lol. I like to be able to have the head off in an hour to an hour and 15 minutes typically. Having all the proper tools helps tremendously too though. My favorite combo for a basic street GSR is a Blox or Skunk2 Pro manifold, Hondata (or equivalent) thermal intake Gasket, Type R or Maxbore OEM TB, 3" diameter Intake system (SRI or CAI), a decent header with 2.5" collector (RMF Narrow style is a favorite for clearance on daily driven GSRs) and a 2.5" TruBendz B pipe to a stock DC2 Type R or RSX-S muffler. With everything else stock; fuel system, head, cams, block etc. and these few mods & a proper tune your average USDM GSR will make ~170-175whp, retain excellent mid range power, return 30+ mpg cruising, all for minimal budget/effort. JDM "GSR" engines will make 4-6 more HP typically due to the increased comp ratio. (Numbers quoted SAE corrected from our DynoJet 248H)
Can you explain the pros & cons, benefits of using a block guard, crank girdle and Arp rod bolts in your next video. And are you planning on installing any of these items to your b20vtec, if not whats the reason besides being a quick build?
Man I remember back in the day when I used to machine shop at the machine shop near my old machine shop those were the good ole days at the machine shop
note the incorrect removal procedure of the cylinder heads bolts that can potentially cause head warping. removal of head bolts is outside in, and 1/3 turn loosening of each bolt until all are loose. not my words Hondas, refer to shop manual. spreading the correct knowledge of how to for these b series engines may increase the chance of more of them being around. considering the b series engine hasn't been produced since 2001. we're 2017 now.
this is one of the best channel i have learn lots and continue to do so thanks and grate job man keep it up and i cnt wait to see this build and ? how you plug the head
Hope you get the car back right man! Great vid as always! I know how it is to have to fix your car just so you can be able to drive so I wish you good luck, and can't wait to see the next video 😁
Great informative vid man bout to do same thing but with b18&b16 head. Always wonder where da oil plug goes but also got a question, does a d series vtec solenoid work on b series?
if you run a b20vtec do you guys in your neck of the woods run the gsr girdle and oil pickup and pan? been told by a few locals it keeps the nonvtec shortblocks tighter to rev it up a lil higher
I have milled a head on a piece of glass with 3m glued sandpaper on top. The race car has competed in 4 seasons of ChumpCar World Series endurance races. When the head is complete it has a much nicer finish than the bottom of yours. I'm not sure why they would have used such an aggressive grit...
Ya they are stretched. Your supposed to get new ones but I don't think he cares that much seeing as he does no treatment to the rods on any of the previous builds. Id be more worried about those week rods breaking at high RPM's. As well as the added harmonics on the crank at high RPM's.
U have to plug it cause b18 and b20 those that not vtec block doesn't have that hole on the block!! so just block and run a oil line kit from your oil filter to where he said on the vtec seloniod screw! That's it
I has a 1998 Acura integra I take head out to replace the head gasket I want to know how set ( head bolts and valve bolts and the timing belt is to two lose) can please get back me to see if you can help me out give me some idea. Thank you
LamassuSound my buddy has built a lot of Ls vtecs and b20 vtec and he told me when you actually use ARP head bolts you will crush the ls head gasket or b20 head gasket because arp bolts have to be torqued to like 80lbs and that makes the head gasket crush and cause the notorious ls vtec oil leaks and shit
I dunno arp has their own torque specs.. I just bought oem gsr head bolts when I built my ls vtec.. I don't see how head bolts are gonna effect anything.. Rod bolts I can see but not head bolts
Would you consider replacing a head gasket to be a "one day job"? My local friend/tuner said I need to leave it with him for a few days, saying it's not a "one day job" and I can't hang out for a few hours while he does it.
Absolutely a one day job. Go watch BoostedBoiz. Even doing it right and carefully you can do it in one day before the sun goes down. It's not a Subaru, it's an inline 4. I love Subaru, BTW, but it is a much more difficult job.
Depends if the head is warped. Why chance it blowing again get the head checked to make sure its good and straight so it doesn't blow again for another 100k miles or whatever it got.
802 Garage I'm doing a b20v too just need a block right now I'm negotiating if I should get arp head studs I want it to be reliable what's your opinion on it ?
Honestly I will not claim to be an expert on head bolts and studs. I do know ARP are considered a reliable option. However, they truly are not necessary for low power builds. If you aren't going turbo or really high compression, they probably aren't necessary. I am not sure if and how many times the OEM head bolts can be reused, but if they are reusable, just look up the correct tightening procedure online and they will be fine. Again, it depends on your power level and the type of build.
why you plugging up Vtec oil drains when it runs off oil pressure. and show a close up of no.3 piston. I wana see if you fucked up the ring gap. if u put rings in it of course
jack black ha ha because a ls block or a b20 block doesn't have a spot in the block for the oil to drain back into the oil pan.. so you simply block that oil hole in the head
No it stays on the vtec sylenoid.. you ain't gotta move any of that.. hell i don't even think you have to run that vtec oil pressure switch but I might be wrong.. I believe honda street garage has a video showing how to get rid of that sensor
jack black yeah If you don't tap and plug that oil passage hole I do believe you will have a oil leak from hell when you put the head on and go to running it
I don't see why you would need a catch can, especially with a stock b20b/b20z bottom end, but people do run them. Pretty much the same is true of the PCV valve. I'm running both and all my oem emission stuff. When I boost I'll run a catch can with a drain back like Endyne does.
Jorge Reynoso I messaged honda street garage on Facebook and asked the same question because I built a Ls Vtec with a b18b1 block and it doesn't have a catch can.. honda street garage said you can run them without a crank ventilation box you just have to change the oil every 2000 miles or a little before 2000
Awesome bro ! I recently bought a 96 coupe with a b16a2 swap in it for $700.00 but it had spun rod and main bearings and Fucked the crank up :( so I pulled my b18 block out of a 99 teggy in the junk yard for $100.00 and built a ls vtec :)
Jorge Reynoso just take your time man and double check behind your self.. this was my first ls vtec build too I just took my time and did alot of research and asked alot of questions.. you know what they say knowledge is power:) FR FR
I don't see how your channel only has 40,000 subscribers honda street garage is awesome I have watched almost all 80 of your videos they are very informative and have helped me building my ls vtec because I have been out of the game for about 8 years so I am kinda rusty on my honda motors.. keep up the awesome work !
thanx man!
No problem brother keep doing what you love and this channel will blow up.. do yall still sell honda street garage shirts? I would like to purchase some if you could hook me up with a link or something.. thanks bro
Honda Street Garage the 2 dowel pins that go under the head, on my ls block they only fit on the intake side is that ok.
One of the favorite things I do every time I have a GSR engine in something is swap the stock manifold for a Skunk2/Type R style unit. Not only do you get more top end power with very minimal low end losses (if properly tuned) but it also makes it a ton easier every time you need to pull the head because the intake can just stay on. I'm constantly working on my builds, so ARP head studs and a smaller manifold are pretty much requirements for me lol. I like to be able to have the head off in an hour to an hour and 15 minutes typically. Having all the proper tools helps tremendously too though. My favorite combo for a basic street GSR is a Blox or Skunk2 Pro manifold, Hondata (or equivalent) thermal intake Gasket, Type R or Maxbore OEM TB, 3" diameter Intake system (SRI or CAI), a decent header with 2.5" collector (RMF Narrow style is a favorite for clearance on daily driven GSRs) and a 2.5" TruBendz B pipe to a stock DC2 Type R or RSX-S muffler. With everything else stock; fuel system, head, cams, block etc. and these few mods & a proper tune your average USDM GSR will make ~170-175whp, retain excellent mid range power, return 30+ mpg cruising, all for minimal budget/effort. JDM "GSR" engines will make 4-6 more HP typically due to the increased comp ratio. (Numbers quoted SAE corrected from our DynoJet 248H)
I love these very informative videos! You go through assembling and disassembling with detail, keep em coming!👌🏼
lol SORRY ABOUT SAYING "MACHINE SHOP" SO MUCH! hahaha
Can you explain the pros & cons, benefits of using a block guard, crank girdle and Arp rod bolts in your next video. And are you planning on installing any of these items to your b20vtec, if not whats the reason besides being a quick build?
Yes! There will be "theory" part on the upcoming "assembly" video!
Drink every time he says ''Machine shop''. GO!
patrick hogewoning i now have alcohol poisoning and im going to die.
patrick hogewoning sorry about that! Lol
I thought the same thing. im like fuck man thats a 20 second video at most
Honda Street Garage what's the name of the intro and outro song?
Djent Everything Machine Shop Boogie. ..
Man I remember back in the day when I used to machine shop at the machine shop near my old machine shop those were the good ole days at the machine shop
Watching you do this made my back hurt. LOL 😂
Same here
heck yeah man loving the consistency now! keep it up guys LOVE THIS CHANNEL!
note the incorrect removal procedure of the cylinder heads bolts that can potentially cause head warping. removal of head bolts is outside in, and 1/3 turn loosening of each bolt until all are loose. not my words Hondas, refer to shop manual. spreading the correct knowledge of how to for these b series engines may increase the chance of more of them being around. considering the b series engine hasn't been produced since 2001. we're 2017 now.
I was actually thinking the same thing. Also probably part of why the bolts were difficult to remove in the last video.
love this channel.....gotta do some tuning videos too bruh and chassis set up. maybe brake conversion
this is one of the best channel i have learn lots and continue to do so thanks and grate job man keep it up and i cnt wait to see this build and ? how you plug the head
Hope you get the car back right man! Great vid as always! I know how it is to have to fix your car just so you can be able to drive so I wish you good luck, and can't wait to see the next video 😁
Great informative vid man bout to do same thing but with b18&b16 head. Always wonder where da oil plug goes but also got a question, does a d series vtec solenoid work on b series?
will you be taking the integra to import alliance this year?
if you run a b20vtec do you guys in your neck of the woods run the gsr girdle and oil pickup and pan? been told by a few locals it keeps the nonvtec shortblocks tighter to rev it up a lil higher
I have milled a head on a piece of glass with 3m glued sandpaper on top. The race car has competed in 4 seasons of ChumpCar World Series endurance races. When the head is complete it has a much nicer finish than the bottom of yours. I'm not sure why they would have used such an aggressive grit...
love your channel bro, im doing the same thing on my si eg but ls v-teck, im going to film the rest of the job, keep up the good work.
How did you take the intake manifold off
good video mark u broke a record for saying machine shop lol but great video as always
You're not going to do arp head studs?
ha that irwin kit comes in clutch all the time i have two sets just incase
did you remove the valves or did the machine shop did
Plans for the GSR block? Sell? Donate to a good home?
What happen to the old shop
Does anyone know what size socket it is for the head bolts? I cant seem to find one.
You were saving the head bolts. Aren't those stretched bolts?
if hes not boosted it should be ok
Ya they are stretched. Your supposed to get new ones but I don't think he cares that much seeing as he does no treatment to the rods on any of the previous builds. Id be more worried about those week rods breaking at high RPM's. As well as the added harmonics on the crank at high RPM's.
What's the name of the song playing during the teardown.
Any issue if i delete the crank position sensor
where are you guys at in sc? I'm doing a k swap and looking for a shop in the state.
9:03 is it necessary to plug that hole? For the b20 block? Or just in General for all vtech b series heads
U have to plug it cause b18 and b20 those that not vtec block doesn't have that hole on the block!! so just block and run a oil line kit from your oil filter to where he said on the vtec seloniod screw! That's it
where you guys located
What size of socket do you use to remove the head studs
No breaker bar to remove the head bolts? Too much arm torque lol
would you sell the gsr block
I has a 1998 Acura integra I take head out to replace the head gasket I want to know how set ( head bolts and valve bolts and the timing belt is to two lose) can please get back me to see if you can help me out give me some idea. Thank you
How many ft-black on head bolts and
how many ft-bls valve
Chengsaephanh12@gmail.com
b20 motor VTEC head what kind of transmission can I use I'm on a budget
I like you music you put in it lol
Just in time for lunch !!
I got a b20v and it keeps leaking oil between the block and head on the corner under the vtec solenoid
What should I do ?
reusing head bolts? also curious as to why you didnt remove the head after removing the engine? not knocking actually curious
LamassuSound my buddy has built a lot of Ls vtecs and b20 vtec and he told me when you actually use ARP head bolts you will crush the ls head gasket or b20 head gasket because arp bolts have to be torqued to like 80lbs and that makes the head gasket crush and cause the notorious ls vtec oil leaks and shit
LamassuSound my buddy always uses new oem head bolts when building a Ls Vtec Or B20 Vtec
why not just torque to OEM specs? interesting
I dunno arp has their own torque specs.. I just bought oem gsr head bolts when I built my ls vtec.. I don't see how head bolts are gonna effect anything.. Rod bolts I can see but not head bolts
because OEM head bolts stretch and should only ever be used once. common knowledge. they distort and its risky to re-use the,
what ecu you gunna use?
Are you selling that gsr head ???
Hello from Russia!
Would you consider replacing a head gasket to be a "one day job"? My local friend/tuner said I need to leave it with him for a few days, saying it's not a "one day job" and I can't hang out for a few hours while he does it.
Road Worthy it's defiantly a one day job. I've done it. Depending on your experience though could take 4-12 hrs
Absolutely a one day job. Go watch BoostedBoiz. Even doing it right and carefully you can do it in one day before the sun goes down. It's not a Subaru, it's an inline 4. I love Subaru, BTW, but it is a much more difficult job.
Road Worty = John force? >.>
Depends if the head is warped. Why chance it blowing again get the head checked to make sure its good and straight so it doesn't blow again for another 100k miles or whatever it got.
Duane Bailey If it was never over heated to hell, chances are it's fine, but you still have a point.
how much is it to polish the head!
By polish do you mean deck? As in machine and level?
No arp head studs ?
Expensive. :P
802 Garage I'm doing a b20v too just need a block right now I'm negotiating if I should get arp head studs I want it to be reliable what's your opinion on it ?
Honestly I will not claim to be an expert on head bolts and studs. I do know ARP are considered a reliable option. However, they truly are not necessary for low power builds. If you aren't going turbo or really high compression, they probably aren't necessary. I am not sure if and how many times the OEM head bolts can be reused, but if they are reusable, just look up the correct tightening procedure online and they will be fine. Again, it depends on your power level and the type of build.
why you plugging up Vtec oil drains when it runs off oil pressure. and show a close up of no.3 piston. I wana see if you fucked up the ring gap. if u put rings in it of course
jack black ha ha because a ls block or a b20 block doesn't have a spot in the block for the oil to drain back into the oil pan.. so you simply block that oil hole in the head
rock hud ahh ok. so how does the oil pressure solenoid operate for the Vtec. do you move it?
No it stays on the vtec sylenoid.. you ain't gotta move any of that.. hell i don't even think you have to run that vtec oil pressure switch but I might be wrong.. I believe honda street garage has a video showing how to get rid of that sensor
jack black yeah If you don't tap and plug that oil passage hole I do believe you will have a oil leak from hell when you put the head on and go to running it
No power tools this time
good job! 👍
does b20 vtec need pcv valve?or oil catch can?
I don't see why you would need a catch can, especially with a stock b20b/b20z bottom end, but people do run them. Pretty much the same is true of the PCV valve. I'm running both and all my oem emission stuff.
When I boost I'll run a catch can with a drain back like Endyne does.
Jorge Reynoso I messaged honda street garage on Facebook and asked the same question because I built a Ls Vtec with a b18b1 block and it doesn't have a catch can.. honda street garage said you can run them without a crank ventilation box you just have to change the oil every 2000 miles or a little before 2000
rock hud i really appreciate that im trying to put a b20 vtec together on my 98 civic..trying to get all the info i can get thanks alot
Awesome bro ! I recently bought a 96 coupe with a b16a2 swap in it for $700.00 but it had spun rod and main bearings and Fucked the crank up :( so I pulled my b18 block out of a 99 teggy in the junk yard for $100.00 and built a ls vtec :)
Jorge Reynoso just take your time man and double check behind your self.. this was my first ls vtec build too I just took my time and did alot of research and asked alot of questions.. you know what they say knowledge is power:) FR FR
why do not you put H22A7, DOHC, VTEC, 16V, 212 KM
more fun to make it.
Do too much work, leave the intake manifold. Get a dewalt impact, easier and faster. Props for using man power.
wrong sequence on head
contact info need you to do some work for me
dam 40k
First
the *
2ND
Whats your snapchat and fb page