Sometimes grinding out a welded chip is the only option, otherwise many layers can be ripped out. Unfortunately if the FR4 is carbonized in the area, there will be a short through layers which is rarely fixable at that point, need to excavate all the carbon with keeping the signal intact. Hate those.
Grinding out?! If a chip's welded onto the PCB chances are the traces below it are beyond repair too. At which point throwing the whole thing straight into the garbage is the only option left.
@@CoolKoon nah dont throw it out, put it in the box, you know, the collection that is essentially a hoarding issue as seen by outsiders, but just about every other chip on that board should be good, meaning it can be used as a donor to repair others.
I have encountered mosfet failures like this in automotive ECU/pcm's and Also an inverter Tig welder and if you carefully grind it away you can often reclaim it without pulling traces off but you need to pick your battles because it took a significant amount of amperage to cause that kind of damage which usually has a daisy chain effect and other components usually take on damage during the initial failure so from a business aspect it's not worth the time but from a project/hobby aspect go to town and try your best. It's not like you are going to destroy it any further but you can improve it and maybe save it.
Grinding a burned chip is Cancerous, tedious, not practical, not economical and no guarantee that that's the only thing wrong with the board. You need to know when to call a device a no fix. Comes with practice.
i have never seen such a fused chip before, must have been shorting for a while to weld itself to the board that way, good thing the thing didnt catch fire. thank you for the video
The only time I attempt to repair a burned board is if it is no more than a double sided board with large traces (power supply or the like) and there is room to cut out the damage and epoxy new circuit board material into place. And then, only if the device is irreplaceable and the customer has to have it regardless of the cost. Good call, thanks for the video showing the attempt. I know you wouldn't have done it except to show us the process. Great job!
We call those 'cratered components' -- because they left a crater of unusable area within the board. Often happens with mosfets and the like. I've seen these on printers and xboxs.
Maybe that component was placed using an SMD adhesive, such as Structalit or Vitralit. We use adhesives to hold some components in place for reflow, and if we put them under a QFP or similar, no amount of heat will get it off...only the right debonding agent...and some of those will destroy the soldermask as well! That's why I prefer corner bonding...so repair people can SEE when it is there.
@@din-kin common ones are A-7, un-cure, and StarBond debonder. Another one that is useful is DeBond Marine Formula. Loctite X-NMS also lives in my kit along with a spray bottle of deionized water for rinsing solvents off after debonding is done.
Terrible design. Modern circuit boards are made to sell, work for a few months then throw away. Defensive design used to be a thing, so that boards could be fixed. Wisdom of the past...
I had this exact thing once before... maybe not that deeply burined into the layers, but similar. I said I will give it a go just for the sake of it. Spent hours and hours on this, and was somewhat hopeful. And it worked! For just a little while. The moment any significant load was put on the device and the current risen it developed another short. So yeah... these are lost cause.
Hello Guy, sory for my english... but I see and admirate you job, and wnat campart to you that one time this happens with me... I used a eletric grill tô let other side hot (200 ºc)... just use kapton tape on a plastic components... I speard to helped you, like YOU always help me, with main the knowlage!
I run into this a lot with automotive coil drivers when the ignition coils get stuck firing. Hot air + iron or 2 hot airs at different angles will usually take care of it.
Every time we learn from your videos sir. Using grinding pen may help you to remove that chip. As we know about your precision. You can easily do it . Make sure you look the legs of chips and grind it. Moreover you know the best.
"Using grinding pen may help you to remove that chip." - Even if it does and even if the PCB traces are salvageable (which in this case they didn't seem to be) I don't think it'd be worth him doing so.
Clean all with Alcohol, add flux, heat up, add Solder tin to the legs, heat further and maybe that will help. The flux and the tin will help to distribute the heat
Constructive criticism: You just jumped straight to air gun and without flux for quite some time. Considering that it may be welded to the board, this should have been cleaned with proper chemicals first, then use some other flux that doesnt evaporate like yours, something like colophony. If it doesnt want to be removed with a little bit aggressive desoldering then it should be grinded. More effort we put into repair, more enjoyable and memorable it will be. This was chance to see video from nuclear bomb to full repair.
@@Discretesignals Right call = blow away 2 components, destroy at least one near chip with heat, rip copper traces. If I am Yoda, then "The greatest teacher, failure is."
"from nuclear bomb to full repair", the layers of the PCB are full of carbon, effectively shorting them. The board needs to be escalated, and the layers replaced with wires (likely)... and then the mosfet is likely not the root issue, itself. If that was a personal laptop and just wanted to repair, it might worth the effort, doing as business doesn't feel anyhow right.
Anything can be fixed. It's just a matter of the cost. For my laptops I have found used replacement boards on Ebay. Over the years I have been spending around $150.00 for every board I purchased since 2005. I recently upgraded my old former powerhouse to a new sleek type and went for the enhanced 2 year repair anything plan hoping that by the time it expired used parts will become available somewhere. For the most part I never purchase the extended warranties due to their excessive cost. They cost up to 20% of the purchase price for items with a low failure rate. Northridge rocks!.
That is really sad. I dont think many manufacturers are adding proper short protection to these boards nowdays, like fast blow fuses and diodes on high current lines... There was probably nothing even wrong with that IC, but if there was a short after it in the circuit, that huge amount of current draw going through that chip could have fried it big time Like why did the charger not go into protection mode? Hp seems to be poor quality
In a case like this, I loop a coper wire around the chip and fill it with a low temp solder stick. It works 98% of the time when the chip is in this condition.
you are my idol when it comes to repair im also a vloggers here in the Philippines and content just like you..you are the master🙏👍🇵🇭🇵🇭 shout out to you sir☺️👍
Would that mosfet failure be due to over power fusing it to the board? Thank you for spending the time to show us the result of 500c to try and remove. Possibly the worst burn out I've seen.
Hello sir , wow like I said the other things I’ve never seen before ! Will I have done asking around with the repair shops in the same area and I ask them if they ever get something bad to please let know ! I’ve only seen other damage ic but never that bad ! Sir that one was a very sticky job you knew right from the back that’s was a no fix !!! Awesome job like always sir best of wishes till the next one
Slightly arrogant, not "user friendly", down to earth kind of man - just like me ;) I've no idea why I can't stop watching your videos ;) I know that burnt chip was the star of this video but for me "we need more" was the highlight ;)
It was the same for me. That little comment made me laugh, and also was wondering about the chocolate. It sounded interesting when he was reading the description. Whistler Dark Chocolate with sea salt. I looked it up to get a better look at it. Organic, product of Canada. Wow, a case of 18 bars is $81.00...so $4.50 per bar buying them in bulk...+shipping an the rest. That better be some damn good chocolate.
I had a similar issue when desoldering an Xbox retimer chip. It eventually came off when I held the hot air nozzle perpendicular to the board, leaving just a 1-2mm gap for the hot air to flow out. The air is hottest just inside the nozzle, so it makes sense to place the component there.
Surprising that chip got welded and fused... Too much heat, beyond the soldering temperature... Not indeed economical to revive, especially if the name of IC is not known. Some manufacturers erase names of IC so that technicians won't repair them and count as e-waste... 😢Overall, great success on using 500 degrees in removing that tough IC. Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas! Greetings from Philippines!
Many thanks north bridge. I had a hp laptop like this 12 month's ago .and i couldn't understand it .it was a capacitor . I got it off eventually . I thought it was my tools what was the issue or me . Again many thanks .and happy holidays to you all
Given how much damage there was from the chip exploding, it wouldn't surprise me if other components would have gone bad. I'm guessing that it must have been a major surge in current to have done that amount of damage
I would've tried to fix it, the traces might be easy to find if the board schematic is handy. Most, if not all of the laptops that I was fixing had schematics online, so I hardware overclocked as many of them as I could and had the time for.
8:47 same thing happened to me: i did lost some traces too when the Mosfet PWM driver has failed on my Powercolor R7-240 2GB oc, card not worth too much, but still, im using now HD5550 Igb DDR2 which is 66% weaker by the chips, and half of the memory, and slower.
that is always a bad thing when a mosfet is fused with the conductor tracks, indicates quite a high amperage when something like this happens, as there are certainly more defective chips.
I used dremel to remove chip that refuced to come off from laptop mainboard, the chip had welded it self to the copper groundplane. That chip was one of many mosfets for gpu power circuit and laptop still worked after removing it with dremel, how ever i intentionally limited power of the gpu with bios modification to 1/4th of the original power limit.
Why, why do it that way with so much heat? After a minute of chip not releasing I would have used a handheld rotary tool and ground the chip down almost to the board. Then I would have heated the leftover and removed the rest.
I think if you could have used a knife like removing the NAND or CPU maybe that could have been easier to remove this kind of crisp ic and with trace pads not getting removed.
That woulda been easier if he added a pre-heater, and that’s because the copper used on top is thicker and the big thermal pad underneath, anyway good job.
I see things like this at work. And then when you tell them "GAME OVER" they say things like... "What do ya mean you can't fix it?? I thought you were an IT guy?!?"... GRR!!!
I'm surprised normally you'd add flux before applying heat or low melt solder but that low melt wouldn't help of it was one with the board but flux if it got under the chip wouldn't it help a lil to release it?
Watching the video a few times shows that u knocked that small component up wards a few millimeters to the spot next to it that didn’t have a component. Then u grabbed a component from further up the board that blew off and put it in a different spot. Watch a few times and u will see. Not like u could have fixed it anyhow but just in case it was possible.
Alex, let us know what are the calling hours for that "Decease" motherboard, we would like to pay our respects. Sometimes you can't win them all, unfixable is unfortunate but thats what happens sometimes, I dealt with a TV motherboard like that and I just couldn't deal with it, you are right, waiste of time but "Good" video.
Currently out of stock. We're expecting a shipment soon northridgefix.com/product/microscope-camera-bundle-1080-60fps-180x-lens-ring-adapter-2-barlow-lenses-0-5x-0-75x/
Why didn’t he use SMD removal alloy? Unless I am missing something, it would have allowed this chip to be removed at 240C or so. I have used it many times.
I dont know much on the subject, but shouldn't catastrophic failures such as this be preventable? Was the manufacturer too cheap to install a fuse, or how does this work? It must've taken a lot of heat for it to get damaged like that.
Blowing 500°C for that long without damaging the layers of the board made me speechless. One day I did an ethernet chip replacement on my PC motherboard, when I reflow the new chip with hotair at 450°C for about 3-4 minutes, I managed to made the surrounding layers bulged.. 🤦🏻♂️
I felt for you. I tried to use hot air on one of my friend's unit, I targeted the CRT board and... woah, it caused burnout and also made some sort of blister on that board. It's one-sided board (usual for CRT boards and Television motherboards of old days). I started to felt scared using hot air. But thankfully NorthridgeFix is a very good encourager on how to use hot air.
I've read that older PCB's (mainly FR-4) can absorb moisture from the air and over time the moisture gets trapped in the layers. As you apply heat, the water vaporises and lifts the cladding which results in bulging and potential power plane layer separation. One trick is to pre-bake the board in a reflow oven at a low temperature for an hour to try and help it evaporate from the layering before you begin SMD re-work.
@@sophiestabilitronics the pre-heater which heats under the board also assists with maintaining an even temperature throughout the entire board which helps prevent thermal shock and thermal expansion which helps prevent BGA pads from lifting whilst reflowing.
This looks like a failed attemp to remove the chip, I experienced the exact same not long ago,. The person who worked on it didn't apply leaded solder, cranked up the heat and for sure used inappropriate liquid flux which carbonizes rock solid around the pins and the traces welding them toghether
it doesn't matter, those traces were already welded together and disintegrated long before Alex took that heat gun to it, in this particular case apply leading solder to the few remaining legs would have made no difference
its good that you can record all the process,so the client can't accuse you of damaging the board
Sometimes grinding out a welded chip is the only option, otherwise many layers can be ripped out. Unfortunately if the FR4 is carbonized in the area, there will be a short through layers which is rarely fixable at that point, need to excavate all the carbon with keeping the signal intact. Hate those.
true. at this point you should simply throw it away :)
@@paugasolina5048 maybe the board. spare the other parts. not all parts in the broken board are broken)
Grinding out?! If a chip's welded onto the PCB chances are the traces below it are beyond repair too. At which point throwing the whole thing straight into the garbage is the only option left.
@@CoolKoon nah dont throw it out, put it in the box, you know, the collection that is essentially a hoarding issue as seen by outsiders, but just about every other chip on that board should be good, meaning it can be used as a donor to repair others.
@@the_socompsp ah, my collection of broken flashlights, computers , and most things with pcbs
I have encountered mosfet failures like this in automotive ECU/pcm's and Also an inverter Tig welder and if you carefully grind it away you can often reclaim it without pulling traces off but you need to pick your battles because it took a significant amount of amperage to cause that kind of damage which usually has a daisy chain effect and other components usually take on damage during the initial failure so from a business aspect it's not worth the time but from a project/hobby aspect go to town and try your best.
It's not like you are going to destroy it any further but you can improve it and maybe save it.
Grinding a burned chip is Cancerous, tedious, not practical, not economical and no guarantee that that's the only thing wrong with the board. You need to know when to call a device a no fix. Comes with practice.
@@NorthridgeFix such extensive heat damage probability not worth putting in further time due to burnt layers?
That sounds like something you'd do on a one of a kind or no longer made board and not something that costs less than $10,000 lol.
i have never seen such a fused chip before, must have been shorting for a while to weld itself to the board that way, good thing the thing didnt catch fire.
thank you for the video
its all ready at crisp you try use your grinding pen it will be like charcoal.
The problem that I could think is that the layers will be melted anyways. However, he should give it a try
The only time I attempt to repair a burned board is if it is no more than a double sided board with large traces (power supply or the like) and there is room to cut out the damage and epoxy new circuit board material into place. And then, only if the device is irreplaceable and the customer has to have it regardless of the cost.
Good call, thanks for the video showing the attempt. I know you wouldn't have done it except to show us the process. Great job!
We call those 'cratered components' -- because they left a crater of unusable area within the board.
Often happens with mosfets and the like. I've seen these on printers and xboxs.
We call them Nagasaki bombs where I wok.
@@ReeseL4D bruh
In printers too? I usually associate them happening in high wattage applications but printers?
How common are the bleeding caps in Xbox machines? I´ve read that they tend to leak.
@@ferna2294 in original xbox its almost a guarantee except for some later revisions of the original xboxes i think?
Maybe that component was placed using an SMD adhesive, such as Structalit or Vitralit. We use adhesives to hold some components in place for reflow, and if we put them under a QFP or similar, no amount of heat will get it off...only the right debonding agent...and some of those will destroy the soldermask as well! That's why I prefer corner bonding...so repair people can SEE when it is there.
can you please tell us several examples of debonding agents so i can look them up: thank you so very much
@@din-kin common ones are A-7, un-cure, and StarBond debonder. Another one that is useful is DeBond Marine Formula. Loctite X-NMS also lives in my kit along with a spray bottle of deionized water for rinsing solvents off after debonding is done.
@@floundergutshmm ok
Terrible design. Modern circuit boards are made to sell, work for a few months then throw away. Defensive design used to be a thing, so that boards could be fixed.
Wisdom of the past...
I never see a chip melted as the one saw in the video.... it's strange ... I wondering about the root cause .... thanks for sharing !
I had this exact thing once before... maybe not that deeply burined into the layers, but similar. I said I will give it a go just for the sake of it.
Spent hours and hours on this, and was somewhat hopeful.
And it worked! For just a little while. The moment any significant load was put on the device and the current risen it developed another short.
So yeah... these are lost cause.
dude you have the clearest scope video of any other person on the entire internet.
Hello Guy, sory for my english... but I see and admirate you job, and wnat campart to you that one time this happens with me... I used a eletric grill tô let other side hot (200 ºc)... just use kapton tape on a plastic components... I speard to helped you, like YOU always help me, with main the knowlage!
I run into this a lot with automotive coil drivers when the ignition coils get stuck firing. Hot air + iron or 2 hot airs at different angles will usually take care of it.
Every time we learn from your videos sir. Using grinding pen may help you to remove that chip. As we know about your precision. You can easily do it . Make sure you look the legs of chips and grind it. Moreover you know the best.
"Using grinding pen may help you to remove that chip." - Even if it does and even if the PCB traces are salvageable (which in this case they didn't seem to be) I don't think it'd be worth him doing so.
good board for the new grinding pen extreme test... and lots of patience!!
most of the time for nothing unless you have middle boards diagrams...
Clean all with Alcohol, add flux, heat up, add Solder tin to the legs, heat further and maybe that will help. The flux and the tin will help to distribute the heat
If chips are soldered to a ground plane, you might need a hotplate or a hot air rework station to heat the underside. It always worked for me.
Not in this situation because as Alex explained the chip fused to the layers. Heating from underneath wouldn't have made any difference.
@@paulroberts3454 possible. It is always worth a try. Plus is quite good practice to preheat from underside
Constructive criticism: You just jumped straight to air gun and without flux for quite some time.
Considering that it may be welded to the board, this should have been cleaned with proper chemicals first, then use some other flux that doesnt evaporate like yours, something like colophony. If it doesnt want to be removed with a little bit aggressive desoldering then it should be grinded. More effort we put into repair, more enjoyable and memorable it will be.
This was chance to see video from nuclear bomb to full repair.
It comes down to if the laptop is worth to repair or not. And in this case it would have been cheaper just to buy another one.
He should have sent it to you since you appear to be an electronics repair master Yoda. He made the right call.
@@Discretesignals Right call = blow away 2 components, destroy at least one near chip with heat, rip copper traces. If I am Yoda, then "The greatest teacher, failure is."
@@orion310591RS Master Yoda could rip that chip off using the force.....lol
"from nuclear bomb to full repair", the layers of the PCB are full of carbon, effectively shorting them. The board needs to be escalated, and the layers replaced with wires (likely)... and then the mosfet is likely not the root issue, itself. If that was a personal laptop and just wanted to repair, it might worth the effort, doing as business doesn't feel anyhow right.
It helps also a lot if you heat the board from down while using the heat gun.
Anything can be fixed. It's just a matter of the cost. For my laptops I have found used replacement boards on Ebay. Over the years I have been spending around $150.00 for every board I purchased since 2005. I recently upgraded my old former powerhouse to a new sleek type and went for the enhanced 2 year repair anything plan hoping that by the time it expired used parts will become available somewhere. For the most part I never purchase the extended warranties due to their excessive cost. They cost up to 20% of the purchase price for items with a low failure rate. Northridge rocks!.
That is really sad. I dont think many manufacturers are adding proper short protection to these boards nowdays, like fast blow fuses and diodes on high current lines...
There was probably nothing even wrong with that IC, but if there was a short after it in the circuit, that huge amount of current draw going through that chip could have fried it big time
Like why did the charger not go into protection mode? Hp seems to be poor quality
In a case like this, I loop a coper wire around the chip and fill it with a low temp solder stick. It works 98% of the time when the chip is in this condition.
how does it help?
Love seeing even the uploads of unsuccessful repairs :) ,That board really did to go hell and back :O i wonder what happened/caused it.
you are my idol when it comes to repair im also a vloggers here in the Philippines and content just like you..you are the master🙏👍🇵🇭🇵🇭 shout out to you sir☺️👍
Hello no.1 fun from Philippines here!Thank you for the amazing video.
You are a genius, wish you were here in Canada!!👍🏅🙏
Would that mosfet failure be due to over power fusing it to the board? Thank you for spending the time to show us the result of 500c to try and remove. Possibly the worst burn out I've seen.
Hello sir , wow like I said the other things I’ve never seen before ! Will I have done asking around with the repair shops in the same area and I ask them if they ever get something bad to please let know ! I’ve only seen other damage ic but never that bad ! Sir that one was a very sticky job you knew right from the back that’s was a no fix !!! Awesome job like always sir best of wishes till the next one
I love the way you looked at the PCB, tested a few IC's and caps then came across the lava pit of an IC. lol
Slightly arrogant, not "user friendly", down to earth kind of man - just like me ;) I've no idea why I can't stop watching your videos ;)
I know that burnt chip was the star of this video but for me "we need more" was the highlight ;)
It was the same for me. That little comment made me laugh, and also was wondering about the chocolate. It sounded interesting when he was reading the description. Whistler Dark Chocolate with sea salt. I looked it up to get a better look at it. Organic, product of Canada. Wow, a case of 18 bars is $81.00...so $4.50 per bar buying them in bulk...+shipping an the rest. That better be some damn good chocolate.
I had a similar issue when desoldering an Xbox retimer chip. It eventually came off when I held the hot air nozzle perpendicular to the board, leaving just a 1-2mm gap for the hot air to flow out. The air is hottest just inside the nozzle, so it makes sense to place the component there.
Surprising that chip got welded and fused... Too much heat, beyond the soldering temperature... Not indeed economical to revive, especially if the name of IC is not known. Some manufacturers erase names of IC so that technicians won't repair them and count as e-waste... 😢Overall, great success on using 500 degrees in removing that tough IC. Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas! Greetings from Philippines!
It's like I can smell can smell this video! Love your videos btw!
Many thanks north bridge. I had a hp laptop like this 12 month's ago .and i couldn't understand it .it was a capacitor . I got it off eventually . I thought it was my tools what was the issue or me . Again many thanks .and happy holidays to you all
The chocolat clip gave me an idea… ASMR soldering videos (!).
Given how much damage there was from the chip exploding, it wouldn't surprise me if other components would have gone bad. I'm guessing that it must have been a major surge in current to have done that amount of damage
I would've tried to fix it, the traces might be easy to find if the board schematic is handy. Most, if not all of the laptops that I was fixing had schematics online, so I hardware overclocked as many of them as I could and had the time for.
The chip is baked together with the copper structure underneath it. So it's better to mill it out of the board carefully.
8:47 same thing happened to me: i did lost some traces too when the Mosfet PWM driver has failed on my Powercolor R7-240 2GB oc, card not worth too much, but still, im using now HD5550 Igb DDR2 which is 66% weaker by the chips, and half of the memory, and slower.
Well that board it toasty. Nice for people to see that sometimes things just can't be fixed. Replacement board time.
that is always a bad thing when a mosfet is fused with the conductor tracks, indicates quite a high amperage when something like this happens, as there are certainly more defective chips.
Not only high amperage, the high amperage must've flown there for quite a while too, possibly hours even.
@@CoolKoon that is correct but my post aims that this board went into nirvana and a repair is not worthwhile.
6:02 that cap? Doesn’t go there. If the board will be used for parts or as a reference in the future, this might matter to you.
I used dremel to remove chip that refuced to come off from laptop mainboard, the chip had welded it self to the copper groundplane. That chip was one of many mosfets for gpu power circuit and laptop still worked after removing it with dremel, how ever i intentionally limited power of the gpu with bios modification to 1/4th of the original power limit.
Why, why do it that way with so much heat?
After a minute of chip not releasing I would have used a handheld rotary tool and ground the chip down almost to the board.
Then I would have heated the leftover and removed the rest.
@@pinecedar180 Alex is capable of grinding the resist paint from a hair-thin copper trace.
I think if you could have used a knife like removing the NAND or CPU maybe that could have been easier to remove this kind of crisp ic and with trace pads not getting removed.
You must add a lot of flux and low melting point solder to remove the chip without applying that much meat
Holy ***! Thats a hefty one 😳 How did they do that? Thanks for showing it anyway.
Damn imagine the temperature that poor thing was at some point,
Nice video, what could be the reason that chip burned so bad?
Damn that chip is gone....like the chocolat you got😂 nice video, thank you. Greets
whoa whoa whoa, havent seen that before whoooaaa. just fun. i like your stuff.
We need more. Great ending! :D :D :D
with a little dremel you would take out the mosfet.
The same for all PS3s trying to remove the heatspreaders on the CPU lol
good job mate.
That woulda been easier if he added a pre-heater, and that’s because the copper used on top is thicker and the big thermal pad underneath, anyway good job.
I see things like this at work. And then when you tell them "GAME OVER" they say things like... "What do ya mean you can't fix it?? I thought you were an IT guy?!?"... GRR!!!
I'm surprised normally you'd add flux before applying heat or low melt solder but that low melt wouldn't help of it was one with the board but flux if it got under the chip wouldn't it help a lil to release it?
He did apply some flux...
Watching the video a few times shows that u knocked that small component up wards a few millimeters to the spot next to it that didn’t have a component. Then u grabbed a component from further up the board that blew off and put it in a different spot. Watch a few times and u will see. Not like u could have fixed it anyhow but just in case it was possible.
Great skills..
That chip was really burned badly.😳
Man you hogged that chocolate bar down... I'd of done the same thing. 😂
Alex, let us know what are the calling hours for that "Decease" motherboard, we would like to pay our respects. Sometimes you can't win them all, unfixable is unfortunate but thats what happens sometimes, I dealt with a TV motherboard like that and I just couldn't deal with it, you are right, waiste of time but "Good" video.
Sometimes a thing won't to become revived. R.I.P HP o/
Does anyone know what kind of camera he uses for viewing the circuit board in close detail?
Probably a usb microscope
Link is in the video description under microscope
Currently out of stock. We're expecting a shipment soon northridgefix.com/product/microscope-camera-bundle-1080-60fps-180x-lens-ring-adapter-2-barlow-lenses-0-5x-0-75x/
100% right, It’s game over
Why didn’t he use SMD removal alloy? Unless I am missing something, it would have allowed this chip to be removed at 240C or so. I have used it many times.
Yeah. That board is toast, I am very sceptical the CPU could survive that happening to its board... Definitely a no fix. 😣
Hey can you make playlist by brand(laptops) and console's. I would love to be able to just search through your playlist this way.
you should put a tiny chisel tip screwdriver underneath that chip and then turn it when you heated the chip it should come loose
@northridgefix Is this RTM 013 S X MS TIP?
Whats the software u use to view microscope camera?
when i see the damage of the chip, i was thinking the board didnt survive because of that damage can make board crisp
curious to know what activity could have caused that to burn ?
Which microscope you are using
It's hard to put the magic smoke back in.
F for that customer
Maybe you should have tried an oxy-acetylene torch.
When he does the diode mode checks, does he put the black lead on ground and tests the board with the red lead?
wow - that is fried! only had that happen one time with and ROG - super fried.
Nice
That was a crispy chip
That component must have stunk up the house when it blew. Maybe there is a problem. If I smell burning plastic you can bet I'll search for the cause.
What kind of microscope stand/boom arm do you use?
The easy way to remove it is to put a hot iron with solder on it while blowing hot air on.
I dont know much on the subject, but shouldn't catastrophic failures such as this be preventable? Was the manufacturer too cheap to install a fuse, or how does this work? It must've taken a lot of heat for it to get damaged like that.
What would cause a MOSFET to blow like that? Using the wrong charger for mains power?
Looks like the RX480 I tried to fix the other day. :-)
nice Vedio ☮️👍
A qué temperatura estaba trabajando ??
Duro mucho dándole calor.
Y me sorprende que no uso flux, Siempre le echa litros de flux xD
Alex :) You ate a little piece of aluminum foil :) Its a neurotoxin ... be carefull :)
Almost need a degree in Vulcanology to fix that.
Blowing 500°C for that long without damaging the layers of the board made me speechless.
One day I did an ethernet chip replacement on my PC motherboard, when I reflow the new chip with hotair at 450°C for about 3-4 minutes, I managed to made the surrounding layers bulged.. 🤦🏻♂️
I felt for you. I tried to use hot air on one of my friend's unit, I targeted the CRT board and... woah, it caused burnout and also made some sort of blister on that board. It's one-sided board (usual for CRT boards and Television motherboards of old days). I started to felt scared using hot air. But thankfully NorthridgeFix is a very good encourager on how to use hot air.
I've read that older PCB's (mainly FR-4) can absorb moisture from the air and over time the moisture gets trapped in the layers. As you apply heat, the water vaporises and lifts the cladding which results in bulging and potential power plane layer separation. One trick is to pre-bake the board in a reflow oven at a low temperature for an hour to try and help it evaporate from the layering before you begin SMD re-work.
@@t0rxe Thank you for the guide! I now see why most modern hot air stations have also heating pad under the PCB to be heated! Great idea!
@@sophiestabilitronics the pre-heater which heats under the board also assists with maintaining an even temperature throughout the entire board which helps prevent thermal shock and thermal expansion which helps prevent BGA pads from lifting whilst reflowing.
What would make a chip cook like that?
How come you aren't using your preheater to help remove the chip?
This looks like a failed attemp to remove the chip, I experienced the exact same not long ago,. The person who worked on it didn't apply leaded solder, cranked up the heat and for sure used inappropriate liquid flux which carbonizes rock solid around the pins and the traces welding them toghether
it doesn't matter, those traces were already welded together and disintegrated long before Alex took that heat gun to it, in this particular case apply leading solder to the few remaining legs would have made no difference
@@coyotex850 I'm not blaming Alex, this board has obvious signs of previous work being done
Wow never seen a hiroshima chip like this ever before... i think the customer must be lucky his laptop did not start a fire..
That’s one hell of a MOSFET
Hi just curious if you would repair a laptop and ipad that will be ship from Philippines ty