900W Crazy Powerful Gearbox With SIX 775 DC Motors - 3D Printed
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ม.ค. 2021
- This video is viewer suggested. When two months ago I build this same thing using 8 micro motors then this time it's upgraded to 775 DC motors. In design, I made a lot of improvements. For testing, I attached this new gearbox to a water pump and snow blower. This 900w gearbox has a lot of power...
Last 8 micromotor gearbox video: • Extremely Powerful 3D ...
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Links:
775 DC motor: ali.ski/D-fmz
Set screws: ali.ski/q5HE0G
Bearings: www.banggood.com/custlink/D3v...
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.stl files: thangs.com/Lets-Print/V6-GEAR...
Storage box on my table: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadge...
Name sign on my table: • 3D Printed Name Sign W...
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Breaks a metal coupler not the 3d printed part 😂🤘👍
I work at a chemical plant and we have cooling towers that circulate water with direct drive centrifugal pumps. Usually between 1700-3500 rpm. They usually have an inlet of 4”pipe and outlet of the same or smaller depends on pressure needed. They deliver about 60psi on average on outlet side. It would be cool if you encased this pump in a similar system that could build pressure and added a gauge to see how it measures up. Maybe next time include rpm tests as well on the impeller. I know it’s a lot of work but I think it would be worth it. Keep up the great work man your videos are some of my favorite. It’s awesome to see someone apply their knowledge, and conduct cool experiments.
When it gets warm enough to do water-based projects again, i think it'd be really cool use this extremely powerful pump to build a giant version of those Vortex Fountains that were getting popular around youtube a while back.
I could see a lot of practical applications in a small, portable, battery driven pump. If you’re out here in Australia 4wding and you need to fill water from a tank or stream, instead of manually filling jerry cans, you could pump it.
I would love to see flow and head tests as well as wear tests.
I wonder if anything would change if the gears were made of aluminium?
This is so cool. I'd love to combine a couple of CNC spindles.
I'm looking forward to your water jet drive project. I've been messing around with 3d printed water jets for a while and I will tell you some findings I made: With fdm printed parts, clearance is your friend. I recommend to make the OD 2-4 mm bigger then the impeller diameter (yes, this is inefficient but inevitable) And either use 2 bushings for the impeller shaft (one on each end) or make the support free distance to the impeller as short as possible, to avoid oscillation of the shaft end and impeller (can destroy the whole jet otherwise). When using the method of 2 shaft bushings, I recommend using a stator impeller with counter directed blades. This will take the vortex out of the flow ( more efficient and looks better) otherwise, a diffusor behind the impeller works fine too, but makes the system larger and heavier. If possible, try to make an impeller with overlapping blades (alternativley multiple stages) to decrease impeller slip and thus increase the thrust (but keep in mind you will also draw more power then). I also recommend a high pitch impeller. Furthermore, keep in mind that in an ideal pump, if you double the rpm, the power draw will be 8 times as big (2^3), that means when you double the voltage on the motors, that is directly proportional to the rpm, your current will quadruple. So always keep an eye on the current draw to avoid motor burnouts ;)
Wow, I lucked out here! I've been trying to build a 3d printed jet for a while. That's a lot of nice tips, thank you!
Absolutely fantastic work!
How about this community though? I scroll through these comments and I see nothing but helpful suggestions and congratulations, hell yeah
Love the videos! The combination of gears, 3d printing and rc makes one of the best channels on youtube!
Also, what cameras do you use? Editing software?
This intro is awesome!
Can't wait for that boat!!!
Next level stuff!!!!!!
Idea: Make a "Centrifugal Fan" with the whole high flow/pressure thing.
Would be for a fully diy version of this:
th-cam.com/video/7w4rg3UcsgI/w-d-xo.html
(ie not needing those 150+ USD motors, but maybe someting more reasonable)
The snow thrower design reminded me of the ones they have on the front of trains, except the blades are a bit like a jet turbine. They are commonly known as rotary snowplows.
Subbed to see where this gearbox goes! Only issue i see it having is cooling
3:02
Could you do this via the "last gear" being duel sided, and having another set of bevel gears to "lock that side in" ?
Was looking for this comment. This change would eliminate the need for an extra thrust bearing and reduce friction losses and wear. However, instead of a dual sided last gear, that would need support material, I would simply flip one of the big bevel gears 180 degree
pretty crazy when u 3d print most of it and the metal part breaks first lol
Keep up the good work! Happy new year!
Thanks mate! Happy new year! ;)
I can see your editing skills improving (Y)
if you use a wood-burning pen with some fine wire mesh over it, you can plastic weld really well, i would recommend for durability purposes to plastic weld the joint on the gear box
Ah Estonia. You should concentrate on the winter projects :) Greets from Croatia!
The end bolt should be spaced with a thrust bearing.
Hi very cool andinspiring video, to help with layer shift you should greas up the 3D printer, verify if the grub screws on the steper motors are tight, and to prevent nozzle clogh verify if your extuder gears grab the filament properly you can also increas the température to 230°C for PLA (even 235°C), or use a bigger nozzle like a 0.6mmø but keeping layer hight to 0.1 or 0.15mm to achive good quality.
Can't wait for more !!
기계기술이 대단하십니다
0.8 nozzle + 100% infill 🤘🤘🤘
You definitely need a flywheel with some weight for the snow blower application
posted this as a reply to a comment but I wanted to get more input from a wider audience. This was a reply to a comment about using a belt drive instead of a drive shaft/coupler:
I'm not sure of the torque, would love to see him calculate/test to find out. The torque problem I was specifically thinking of is what you can hear each time he threw chunks of snow into the "impeller" you could hear the sudden drop in speed and then the sudden ramp up as it cleared. If he's got a belt that can keep up with that type of inconsistent torque pull and not get blitzed at those temperatures, then by all means go for it. If not a chain drive most likely is a better option, also more easily found on an old bike.
This also makes me think that he'll need to make some sort of transmission or torque control for this snow blower project, and a chain drive cover.
Awesome.
Would love to see the waterjet engine !
I can sense the burning smell of coils by watching this.
Excellent
Put it vertical axil. Wonderful!!!
HOLY SHT THIS IS AWESOME. I just learned how to design those bevel gears in cad too. Gonna have some fun with this :)
amazing
How about a very fast blower with a hopper that lets in the snow that you shovel for more efficiency
Awesome, asombroso mi amigo 👋 from Mexico
The snow disintergrate into particles haha
you should definitely have more subscribers.
You need to build this with brushless motors.
Очень классные проекты, браво 👏
God project man! But I would make with brushless motor!
make a RC boat with it
Add double ball bearing at both ends that will increase speed last long
Do this with 8 dc 775 motors and slimmer please...
New subscriber❤
Thats lovely. 💜
Edit: liked & subscribed keep it going. 👍
did you 3D print that storage unit that contained the bearings? I like the design!
You could have built a small drop hole where you could just put the soft snow in and that would be more efficient for the video and showing how powerful it was
You need to include a small steel ball between the main shaft and the rear adjusting screw.
Try using a belt drive instead of a drive shaft. Less chance for a snapped coupler :)
Chain drive, belts snap too at this speed and torque especially when it's freezing cold. Also make a chain cover.
@@Scott_C That's an interesting point. I was thinking of the belt on my 2 stroke Toro. I wonder what the potential output is on 6 x 775's with high discharge DC current
@@partytempo Not sure, would love to see him calculate/test to find out. The torque I was specifically thinking of is what you can hear each time he threw chunks of snow into the "impeller" you could hear the sudden drop in speed and then the sudden ramp up as it cleared. If he's got a belt that can keep up with that type of inconsistent torque pull and not get blitzed at those temperatures, then by all means go for it. If not a chain drive most likely is a better option. This also makes me think that he'll need to make some sort of transmission or torque control for this snow blower project.
@@partytempo how do you like your Toro BTW? Thinking I might need to get one (a snow blower that is).
Edit: to clarify what I'm thinking of getting.
@@Scott_C - Overall I love it - cheap, effective, reliable. With all 2strokes, it's loud and gassy. I just upgraded to a Toro 824 which I look forward to testing in the next snowfall
Your background music is improving :)
and the really cringy music around 3:20 made me skip until the shower test when it stopped
Get a Turnigy Aquastar BLDC watercooled motor, drive an impeller directly from it. It takes up to 10S at ~100A so about 3kw. Just mind you, it's a weapon XD
that would be cool in a model boat
Hope you can fix your 3d printer during the winter and can't wait for that jet boat in the summer of 2021! Your under extrusion problems are very similar to what I had on my 3d printer. I recommend checking the bowden tube and the extruder gear. My bowden tube had some knife-like damages from trying to dismantle it earlier and failed, so when 3d printer was retracting the filament got stuck on those slices. The extruder arm bolt that holds the lever was too tight and the lever wasn't pushing against the filament, had to loosen the bolt. The layer shift is probably loose belt or failing stepper driver.
This + I recommend cleaning the nozzle every few prints and print hotter, especially with PETG Filament to avoid clogging. As a last resort heat the nozzle to its maximum temperatur and extrude some filament manually to clean it. A friend gave me that tip and it worked every time so far.
this is more than epic... really ... I am speechless
I'm going to chat in the comments every day Cause you're my favorite youtuber
Considering the high wattage, it should be able to lift the weight a lot faster. The absence of slowing down as the weight leaves the ground shows how much power is still untapped into. Try reducing the gear ratio.
I think a flywheel could really help that snowblower keep its inertia
Liked just for that intro
How about using it to power a flywheel which is then attached to an air raid siren or similar?
Maybe print a disc with 2 or 4 razor blade holders for the gearbox and use it as leaf/ small twig shredder or for carrots
excellent edeia dear friend I liked it and subscribed
You should use a brushless rc car motor that runs on 8s those things have like a power of 3-5kw
can you make something that match a Honda snow machine ? And what comes on my mind, what is the wear on the gearbox after long time of normal use ? and can this break easely under too much load ?
that is one horsepower. nc!
i need asnow blower why dont you aim for a snow blower :)
can you please make a video on how you design stuff like this? Like what program and stuff
Awesome
You should add freewheel this type of system which have different load conditions.
Nice job, but the end results as a snow thrower is wrong . Application should be better
6:50 I think the snow blower would work well if the blades are angled
Maybe use stainless steel and also protect the motors from water so it doesnt rust / corrode and get destroyed so fast ?
**=** Electrify the gas snow blower, the dream!
6:49 the way it just popped off lmao 🤣🤣
You found a nice way of cleaning your shower room :-) . Very interisting design and nice work
But you need to supply sufficient current at rated voltage to achieve maximum torque and power
Did you figure out the reason why your printer stopped extruding mid print. I have the same issue
i think that with some gearing this would have the torque to power a gokart or somethink similar
Ive designed somwthing similar a few months back using 4 380 sized motors for my rc truck im building
to replace the big bolt stop sticking out, just take a bit 0f springy thin copper coated steel, centre punch it or rather punch a tiny ball bearing to make a dome in it, cut to size so the dome is contacting the centre steel rod & the plate can simply slot in the sides to keep it pressed together... or plastic + hole + ball bearing + spring oc but that's fiddly & can drop out easier
You should compare it to the performance of a single 900W motor.
can you make it look like a V6 engine instead of boxer engine? It will look cool and save a lot of space!
Like this new build. Why not try to build a electric car from this new powerful motor system!
you need to add silicone seals. you can create custom ones, if you design your parts with a special channel, you can pour liquid silicone directly in the part. there is a video about this, some guys building Submarine doors, i mean heavy duty steel ones, you can see clearly how he builds the insulation, as i described. when the door is closed it presses onto the silicone seal, thats how no water can pass through. normally people use premade seals for plumbing, but since you are 3d printing everything, you also need special seals.
Can you try making is using Brushless dc motors? This should give it more speeed
Please make a RC car with this!
Could you make a small one of these to combine 4 drone motors to use as wind turbine
I would really want to make a RC Jet boat with this. But I dont have those skills.
Maybe watch the video before commenting.
Glad ve gave sort of the same idea
brother man can you do some video on how to design gears and case in 3d software... i would like to replicate your project
Once the motor get heavily-loaded, no 3D filament can stay mechanically strong with the heat from the motor. PLA is especially not heat resistant, with only 60℃ it will become soft.
Reports of getting up to 180°C if you use high-temp PLA and anneal it (but you’ll need to adjust your part for shrinkage/expansion and could try with your slicer’s horizontal expansion setting): th-cam.com/video/vLrISrkg46g/w-d-xo.html
and
th-cam.com/video/TFsTo6cDmF8/w-d-xo.html
idk if you noticed this, but it was in snow
How can you increase torque in such a project?
Whats the name of the sound effect used at the beggining of the video,sounds Badass
Could you run the gear box reverse as a generator?
My only criticism is your use of lock nuts. I would use threaded inserts. The kind made for 3d printing that you use a soldering iron to melt into the hole.
The 90W or so of heat you're going to be dissipating in those gears under load isn't going to be kind to PLA. You really need some grease in there.
Imagine having this as your pc cooling fan
Use Brushless Motors, And gear it for torque, and run the motors at 10-20 thousand RPM.
you can use this for make electricity?
Can you do a tutorial on how to make this type of gear with cad software?
What is the total cost and where it's available and what's the strength of battery needed
Dude. Make a flat 8 (or 16???:) ) powered gocart!!
Looked like the water output was about 25mm which would assuming high peak flow maximum would be around 220 liters per minute. Just increasing 5mm more would nearly double output. By restricting the output it is killing the efficiency and hardly competing with a $100 pump. I have a 18,000lph pond pump that runs a 2” (50mm) output for reference. I’m positive your setup exceeds what 25mm can allow.