I agree with him 100% on not skimping out on the concrete or depth of putting them in the ground .. I personally put up over 30 panels myself and I used at least 3-4 bags per post and damn my fence is strongg as F and perfectly level! I’m in New England and recently I’ve driven around and seen many fences destroyed from the recent storms we had.. but mine is still standing strong and showing zero signs of weakness… I had originally paid someone to do 10 panels and those “professionals” did not use any where near the amount of concrete that I used when I did it by myself n I even noticed they cut some length off some posts because they said “you don’t need to go 2’ or more deep” I know they were wrong now.. and the ones that they did w less concrete have already lost their perfect level look that they had last year.. I know it’s because they didn’t go as deep or use as much concrete as I did … concrete cost 5-6 bucks a bag, why skimp out on $20 worth of concrete when that $20 could have given you years of security on the strength of the fence Why spend all that money on panels and posts just to go cheap w the amount of concrete used… Don’t cheap out! N also make sure to use a 4x4 post or something to tamper down the dirt in the hole before putting any rocks, concrete , or posts in . Tamper it like a man n make sure your base is good Needless to say once the spring comes along I’m going to redo the 10 that they did half a s s
This guy is great. One of the most entertaining do it yourself videos I’ve ever seen. And informative. I’d subscribe more than once if I could. Thank you.
You make great videos with some great ideas...My opinion is 1 80lb bag of concrete is plenty...pour all at the bottom of the hole, tamped dirt above the concrete will hold the post in place more than enough....experience
@@fabulosobrohamdefinitely do not settle for (1) 80lb bag of concrete.. you’re securing your $160 fence n one post w just 5 dollars worth of concrete and think that’s enough then you’re in for a life lesson
Hey there, great video! I’m a beginner and I’m making a double sided gate. You mentioned there would need to be some wood inside the post for a gate too. If the post is 5”x5”, does the wood need to be the same? Also, does the wood need to be 8’ tall and go into the concrete as well? Any direction you can give would be really appreciated. Thanks 🤘🏼
Very good video and explanation, as always. I was very surprised to see only 32" as below the frost line in northern Wyoming. For whatever obviously incorrect assumptions on my part, I expected it would be deeper than here, which is 48".
Considering it’s more windy in Wyoming than not windy, I’ll take your word for it. I live near the mouth of a canyon and sometimes we’re in the wind path.
Thanks!! I’ve been watching videos on “how to” and I’m just frustrated and about to give up until I seen this! All I’m doing is a small 12 foot section with a gate. 😬
I like the idea of stabbing in the post. I have completed a 1/3 of my fence using this method. My only concern is what if water/moisture makes its way inside the post. Isn’t there a chance that the water could freeze, possibly distorting or even cracking the post? Maybe I am looking into this too much but I did take a 90° drill and put a 1/4” weep hole into the post just above where the concrete ended. Is that worth doing or wasting my time? Just never heard you talk about having these issue when using this stabbing method.
You're not hurting anything by putting a weep hole, but it's not necessary. You'd have to get a *lot* of water in that post before it could freeze and not have anywhere to go. If your post has filled up with water I would imagine your property would be washed away at that point.
@@SWiFence Ok thanks! I was thinking it would expand outward causing stress on the post walls. Instead you’re saying it should expand upward inside the post until completely frozen. Makes sense and thanks for taking the time to reply back. I’ve enjoyed the videos and it’s been really helpful.
great video I definitely learned a lot. In this video, you mentioned putting a pole or bracket inside the post if you were placing a gate. I currently have a vinyl post & fence that attaches to the side of a house, but, now I want to change it and place a vinyl gate/door next to the house. The current post is on top of asphalt. I was looking through your posts but didn't find or see anything. do you have a video or any suggestions? Thank you again for a great video explanation.
Hey mate, have you ever had any drainage issues with the concrete being set in the core of the post as well? Im getting mixed information on what to do. The argument is, if the post isn't hollow down to drainage gravel, the water will build up inside, causing mould etc. Thanks for the great video mate.
Yes, it does retain water--that's a fair argument. You might even get some mold inside the post from standing water--it's possible. But we believe you are getting are far stronger and better end result by stabbing than you would if you left the middle hollow.
I put concrete in my posts and it truly does make it way stronger,, what I did was stop the concrete at the rectangle cut out for the bottom rung, that way if rain gets in the post it gets a chance to drain at the rectangle cut out for the bottom rung
Quick question related to end posts that will have gates attached. The stabbing method makes sense to me but will it work with a post that has an aluminum insert? I have two double gates in my plan which means four posts with aluminum inserts and I am worried about the insert not seating properly. Any tips?
If you're talking about vinyl we usually screw them together and set them as one post. Put the screw at the very top or bottom that goes into the concrete. 👍🏻
You forgot squaring your area...i always square my post especially those with pree holes...but irregardless...you want to make sure all faces are flush to direction intended. But away from that amazing showing ❤❤
No we don't. The ground isn't suited for them out here and we like to keep things efficient. I'll note your idea down though and perhaps we can still do a video. 👍🏻
I’m not sure where you are because I’ve heard of people in Minnesota, and Wisconsin only having to set post at 48 inch due to frost levels. However, if your frost is that deep, yes you absolutely have to extend past the frost level. There is no need for the post itself to go all the way to the bottom since it can be floated up in the concrete if you use our stab method. Another way to do this would be to partially fill the hole and then pour around the post, but this is very difficult. Overall, I would recommend a stab method for simplicity. Alternatively, you could drive your posts and avoid the concrete altogether which will yield an even better fence than if you had set it in concrete. This is very popular in the north due to the fact that nobody wants to dispose of all those spoils and spend the money on that much concrete. (If you're building vinyl you're of course driving pipe and then sleeving the vinyl over that.)
@@SWiFence Thank you. Will be starting this concept tomorrow. I like your method and it will help secure the 3 metal inserts I have to use with the 5x5 posts for gates I will be adding.
@@SWiFence So the stab the post method worked well. I did the west side portion of the fence posts today and I could see the concrete filling the inside of the post. I will be using the same method for the east side portion. Thank you.
32" dude that's not deep I don't know what you're bragging about you're going to lessen that you're not even gonna stand up longer than a month 32" 3' minimum should be at least 4'
That depends entirely on where you are and how high your fence is. We engineer for Wyoming wind (which gets pretty heavy) and this works very well for us.
Drill a hole through it, run a rod through the hole, you and a helper get on each side of the rod and pull up while rocking back and forth. If it's set well this may not work, but it's worth a shot. If you've got access to a forklift or bobcat or something that can generate upward force you can chain to your rod and pull up.
I appreciate all of your help with these videos. How wide would you suggest digging a 5x5 vinyl post?
I agree with him 100% on not skimping out on the concrete or depth of putting them in the ground .. I personally put up over 30 panels myself and I used at least 3-4 bags per post and damn my fence is strongg as F and perfectly level! I’m in New England and recently I’ve driven around and seen many fences destroyed from the recent storms we had.. but mine is still standing strong and showing zero signs of weakness… I had originally paid someone to do 10 panels and those “professionals” did not use any where near the amount of concrete that I used when I did it by myself n I even noticed they cut some length off some posts because they said “you don’t need to go 2’ or more deep” I know they were wrong now.. and the ones that they did w less concrete have already lost their perfect level look that they had last year.. I know it’s because they didn’t go as deep or use as much concrete as I did … concrete cost 5-6 bucks a bag, why skimp out on $20 worth of concrete when that $20 could have given you years of security on the strength of the fence
Why spend all that money on panels and posts just to go cheap w the amount of concrete used…
Don’t cheap out!
N also make sure to use a 4x4 post or something to tamper down the dirt in the hole before putting any rocks, concrete , or posts in . Tamper it like a man n make sure your base is good
Needless to say once the spring comes along I’m going to redo the 10 that they did half a s s
This channel is way more entertaining than it has any business being.
This guy is great. One of the most entertaining do it yourself videos I’ve ever seen. And informative. I’d subscribe more than once if I could. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
You make great videos with some great ideas...My opinion is 1 80lb bag of concrete is plenty...pour all at the bottom of the hole, tamped dirt above the concrete will hold the post in place more than enough....experience
In some parts of the country that's definitely true. 👍🏻 Our wind load here won't allow for that unless we want lots of warranty work.
@SWI Fence I live in Florida so I should probably do it your way to avoid hurricane damage huh?
@@fabulosobrohamdefinitely do not settle for (1) 80lb bag of concrete.. you’re securing your $160 fence n one post w just 5 dollars worth of concrete and think that’s enough then you’re in for a life lesson
Hey there, great video! I’m a beginner and I’m making a double sided gate. You mentioned there would need to be some wood inside the post for a gate too. If the post is 5”x5”, does the wood need to be the same? Also, does the wood need to be 8’ tall and go into the concrete as well? Any direction you can give would be really appreciated. Thanks 🤘🏼
Very good video and explanation, as always. I was very surprised to see only 32" as below the frost line in northern Wyoming. For whatever obviously incorrect assumptions on my part, I expected it would be deeper than here, which is 48".
Considering it’s more windy in Wyoming than not windy, I’ll take your word for it. I live near the mouth of a canyon and sometimes we’re in the wind path.
Thanks!! I’ve been watching videos on “how to” and I’m just frustrated and about to give up until I seen this!
All I’m doing is a small 12 foot section with a gate. 😬
You got this!
I like the idea of stabbing in the post. I have completed a 1/3 of my fence using this method. My only concern is what if water/moisture makes its way inside the post. Isn’t there a chance that the water could freeze, possibly distorting or even cracking the post? Maybe I am looking into this too much but I did take a 90° drill and put a 1/4” weep hole into the post just above where the concrete ended. Is that worth doing or wasting my time? Just never heard you talk about having these issue when using this stabbing method.
You're not hurting anything by putting a weep hole, but it's not necessary. You'd have to get a *lot* of water in that post before it could freeze and not have anywhere to go. If your post has filled up with water I would imagine your property would be washed away at that point.
@@SWiFence Ok thanks! I was thinking it would expand outward causing stress on the post walls. Instead you’re saying it should expand upward inside the post until completely frozen. Makes sense and thanks for taking the time to reply back. I’ve enjoyed the videos and it’s been really helpful.
great video I definitely learned a lot. In this video, you mentioned putting a pole or bracket inside the post if you were placing a gate. I currently have a vinyl post & fence that attaches to the side of a house, but, now I want to change it and place a vinyl gate/door next to the house. The current post is on top of asphalt. I was looking through your posts but didn't find or see anything. do you have a video or any suggestions? Thank you again for a great video explanation.
th-cam.com/video/DnkuQiiNzFE/w-d-xo.html
Hey mate, have you ever had any drainage issues with the concrete being set in the core of the post as well? Im getting mixed information on what to do.
The argument is, if the post isn't hollow down to drainage gravel, the water will build up inside, causing mould etc.
Thanks for the great video mate.
Yes, it does retain water--that's a fair argument. You might even get some mold inside the post from standing water--it's possible. But we believe you are getting are far stronger and better end result by stabbing than you would if you left the middle hollow.
I put concrete in my posts and it truly does make it way stronger,, what I did was stop the concrete at the rectangle cut out for the bottom rung, that way if rain gets in the post it gets a chance to drain at the rectangle cut out for the bottom rung
Quick question related to end posts that will have gates attached. The stabbing method makes sense to me but will it work with a post that has an aluminum insert? I have two double gates in my plan which means four posts with aluminum inserts and I am worried about the insert not seating properly. Any tips?
If you're talking about vinyl we usually screw them together and set them as one post. Put the screw at the very top or bottom that goes into the concrete. 👍🏻
What size auger did you use? Or what is the width of the hole I should make?
We typically do a 12" hole.
Hi, if the frost line is 32in would i need to go 5 in extra? Thanks
Sounds about right. We usually go about 6" further.
You forgot squaring your area...i always square my post especially those with pree holes...but irregardless...you want to make sure all faces are flush to direction intended. But away from that amazing showing ❤❤
do you guys use hand augers I would like to see a video, or two man augers
No we don't. The ground isn't suited for them out here and we like to keep things efficient. I'll note your idea down though and perhaps we can still do a video. 👍🏻
In Wisconsin the frostline runs between 48-65 ", so i have to dig deeper than that?
Yep. It rots, but it's better than having your fence heave over the years.
@@SWiFence How does vinyl rot?
5:57 need more bracing! 🤣💕👍
I should have! 🤣🤣
My frost line is 54” does that mean I have to did 5 feet into the ground? Then fill it with concrete even if my post doesn’t go that deep
I’m not sure where you are because I’ve heard of people in Minnesota, and Wisconsin only having to set post at 48 inch due to frost levels. However, if your frost is that deep, yes you absolutely have to extend past the frost level. There is no need for the post itself to go all the way to the bottom since it can be floated up in the concrete if you use our stab method. Another way to do this would be to partially fill the hole and then pour around the post, but this is very difficult. Overall, I would recommend a stab method for simplicity. Alternatively, you could drive your posts and avoid the concrete altogether which will yield an even better fence than if you had set it in concrete. This is very popular in the north due to the fact that nobody wants to dispose of all those spoils and spend the money on that much concrete. (If you're building vinyl you're of course driving pipe and then sleeving the vinyl over that.)
Where do you get your vinyl fencing from? Brand?
We use National Vinyl Products out of Nephi, UT.
I know you guys are not fans of wooden posts but, can you use the stab method with a wooden post?
Absolutely. th-cam.com/video/XTj5HESFo9c/w-d-xo.html
THANKS @@SWiFence
Another excellent and comical video.
Aw shucks! 😂
@@SWiFence So do you set all of the posts and concrete them...then install the fence panels? Thank you
Correct.
@@SWiFence Thank you. Will be starting this concept tomorrow. I like your method and it will help secure the 3 metal inserts I have to use with the 5x5 posts for gates I will be adding.
@@SWiFence So the stab the post method worked well. I did the west side portion of the fence posts today and I could see the concrete filling the inside of the post. I will be using the same method for the east side portion. Thank you.
Especially here in Wyoming 😮
How deep for a place with no frost line? (California)
24” is what I normally do. 18x18 wide
Thank you man!
You bet!
Nice video brotha
Use fast set?
instead of the “stab” set the post and pour a little cement down the lower rail hole?
You could. Sounds more difficult.
A shorter handle shovels to mix concrete is a little better
Bracing the post makes more sense when you have around 50 post to brace, so that’s about 100 2x4’s, makes perfect sense. 😜
😂😂
I wish the fence company who did my fence had put more than 1 bag. Knew they didn’t use more than 1 but they denied there method wasn’t good enough.
They shortchanged you, but they probably genuinly believed it was good enough. One bag is the prevailing DIY wisdom, but it's nowhere near enough.
hey, you still have Mark's post hole diggers he threw you from Florida; you know it's not nice not to return tools you barrow lol
pick two sides 90 degrees from one another I think is what you were trying to say haha
😂😂Dude when I see people bracing their fencing it drives me nuts!
32" dude that's not deep I don't know what you're bragging about you're going to lessen that you're not even gonna stand up longer than a month 32" 3' minimum should be at least 4'
That depends entirely on where you are and how high your fence is. We engineer for Wyoming wind (which gets pretty heavy) and this works very well for us.
@@SWiFence Yeah wind is what brings down fences the longer the fence the deeper the post the better it is
your BUGGING
@@Joedoeswhatit does depend where you at I am in California and city’s only require 24
@@ESG13 never make ur goal minimum code always over build
Lol you amazing
So where will someone who isn't a contractor get "quality" vinyl fence?
Most fencing companies should sell material from their vendors.
Fencing for 20 plus years. Always pull string
Eyesighting is a dying art.
I can build a vinyl fence by myself. Don't need an army. I can teach you
T&t fence in waycross ga
Maybe put the post in the hole first...
Nah
What the he'll is this Frost you speak of ???
Sounds like someone lives in the South. 😆 I'm jealous.
Yo, 😂
Yo!
How do you remove a vinyl fence post that's jammed 3 ft into the ground, no concrete? I need to replace it
Drill a hole through it, run a rod through the hole, you and a helper get on each side of the rod and pull up while rocking back and forth. If it's set well this may not work, but it's worth a shot. If you've got access to a forklift or bobcat or something that can generate upward force you can chain to your rod and pull up.
@@SWiFence Perfect! will give it a try
A farm Jack may also help along with drilling hole and bolting a piece of 2x4 to post as a jacking point.