I am doing this work on my 1160 starboard front window in the next few weeks. Some advice. Think through your procedure in a lot of detail first. Having fenders in the way, suckers and tie ropes not in situ etc etc just makes it harder. The way I will do it is pretty much the same in terms of the blackout (using Fixtech190 for this plus bonding/caulking) but prepare small wood shims to get the spacing right on the perimeter and on the correct depth (space between frame and glass). These can be pulled out on cure then backfilled with the sealant. I will also let the blackout cure first. As one other person said, mask up the perimeter of the hull to avoid mess there. I would also have strong gaffers tape to help secure the window to the hull. There is a slight inward angle to the window so you should have most of the weight on the bottom shims and the tape will stop it sliding out. As someone else mentioned, I cringed when you transport the glass horizontally. Always vertically and walking on/off the boat with glass is also risky.
You guys are awesome. This was an amazing video. Thank you for sharing your adventure. Can't wait to see how the window project turns out. Did I mention I blew up my engine head and it took over a year to get it fixed. You got this!
That's a great call for that set up. We've since upgraded to the plastic drop cloth we used to make the templates and gorilla tape. We're movin' on up! 🤣
There is a glazing removal knife available at most automotive stores. It is short and has a 90 degree turn in blade with a further 3/4 inch of blade so you can cut the silicon quite easily. you need to see it as im not good at explaining.
@@roga8681 these hull windows definitely need something longer than 3/4" blade to get to all the sika that was used to mount it. Unfortunately I think we're stuck with the wire on the hull windows. The salon windows however (coming soon!) would be a good application for this, but we were able to get them off with the tools we had on hand as well less the wire.
OMG, I feel for you! I'm in the process of removing the adhesive that attached the teak to the non-skid gel. A question for you...did you try to remove the old adhesive around the windows with the Xylene at all? Also, what was the tool (head on the drill) that you did use to remove the old adhesive? Can you tell I'm a little desperate for a better solution? 🤦♀😂
@@SailingRoam OOF, Now that's a job I don't envy...The xylene is good for cleaning up fresh stuff (at least then Dow 795), old stuff seemed to come up with acetone or isopropyl alcohol pretty well. We didn't try to use the xylene ore any kind of caulk remover first as just scraping worked well enough. There is some stuff out there that's supposedly good for taking caulk off, but I guess it depends on what was used to glue down your teak? The drill attachment we got off Amazon here's the info: S SATC 46PCS Sanding Discs 2 Inch Roll Lock Quick Change Discs 1pcs 1/4'' Holder Surface Conditioning Discs Fine Medium Coarse for Die Grinder Surface Strip Grind Polish Burr Finish Rust Paint Removal a.co/d/gqvoB0I It's a pretty good item, but it will grind off the gelcoat too...
@@roga8681 we spread the silicone on the glass in order to replace the paint that was on the glass originally. We also put the silicone on the hull which we did not spread. This was probably between 3/8" and 1/2" thick at application. Definitely not spreading on the hull.
Great hustle guys you're doing awesome 👍
@@raphaelarnsworth3430 thank you!!!
I am doing this work on my 1160 starboard front window in the next few weeks. Some advice. Think through your procedure in a lot of detail first. Having fenders in the way, suckers and tie ropes not in situ etc etc just makes it harder. The way I will do it is pretty much the same in terms of the blackout (using Fixtech190 for this plus bonding/caulking) but prepare small wood shims to get the spacing right on the perimeter and on the correct depth (space between frame and glass). These can be pulled out on cure then backfilled with the sealant. I will also let the blackout cure first. As one other person said, mask up the perimeter of the hull to avoid mess there. I would also have strong gaffers tape to help secure the window to the hull. There is a slight inward angle to the window so you should have most of the weight on the bottom shims and the tape will stop it sliding out. As someone else mentioned, I cringed when you transport the glass horizontally. Always vertically and walking on/off the boat with glass is also risky.
Solid advice! We'll definitely be keeping your tips in mind for the next window.
You guys are awesome. This was an amazing video. Thank you for sharing your adventure. Can't wait to see how the window project turns out.
Did I mention I blew up my engine head and it took over a year to get it fixed.
You got this!
@@thorn3377 oh man! No you didn't mention that!!! We will be back soon to finish this project. We need to get a beer and lament our boating woes 😁
Glass is weakest lying down, always stand on edge where possible.
@@roga8681 good to know! Thanks for the pro tip
Try taping off the window with gorilla tape around the perimeter. Perpendicular to the seams.
Good Luck with whatever to do.
That's a great call for that set up. We've since upgraded to the plastic drop cloth we used to make the templates and gorilla tape. We're movin' on up! 🤣
There is a glazing removal knife available at most automotive stores. It is short and has a 90 degree turn in blade with a further 3/4 inch of blade so you can cut the silicon quite easily. you need to see it as im not good at explaining.
@@roga8681 these hull windows definitely need something longer than 3/4" blade to get to all the sika that was used to mount it. Unfortunately I think we're stuck with the wire on the hull windows. The salon windows however (coming soon!) would be a good application for this, but we were able to get them off with the tools we had on hand as well less the wire.
OMG, I feel for you! I'm in the process of removing the adhesive that attached the teak to the non-skid gel. A question for you...did you try to remove the old adhesive around the windows with the Xylene at all? Also, what was the tool (head on the drill) that you did use to remove the old adhesive? Can you tell I'm a little desperate for a better solution? 🤦♀😂
@@SailingRoam OOF, Now that's a job I don't envy...The xylene is good for cleaning up fresh stuff (at least then Dow 795), old stuff seemed to come up with acetone or isopropyl alcohol pretty well. We didn't try to use the xylene ore any kind of caulk remover first as just scraping worked well enough. There is some stuff out there that's supposedly good for taking caulk off, but I guess it depends on what was used to glue down your teak?
The drill attachment we got off Amazon here's the info:
S SATC 46PCS Sanding Discs 2 Inch Roll Lock Quick Change Discs 1pcs 1/4'' Holder Surface Conditioning Discs Fine Medium Coarse for Die Grinder Surface Strip Grind Polish Burr Finish Rust Paint Removal a.co/d/gqvoB0I
It's a pretty good item, but it will grind off the gelcoat too...
Dont spread the silicon. Leave it 3/8" high so it squashes on contact. and try to reproduce the pattern it was on originally
@@roga8681 we spread the silicone on the glass in order to replace the paint that was on the glass originally. We also put the silicone on the hull which we did not spread. This was probably between 3/8" and 1/2" thick at application. Definitely not spreading on the hull.