You know what dude ... Good video no talking , no dumb music , straight to the point And good editing fast forwarding when needed Only thing I would add is a shot of the tools you need , or the ones you used all laying out visibly spread out
Thank you so much for doing this video. The water pump on my 2013 just dumped a couple gallons of coolant at the end of my driveway. This helped a lot with knowing what to expect to take off. I bought the package of new O rings for the hoses with the snap ring to remove. One thing to note is FOMOCO has a three and a four hole flange and holes on the water pump pulley. I have the four hole. I got it all together with no leaks and realized I forgot to install the new O rings...DOH!!!
Awesome video man! No bullshit & straight to the point! Excited (not) to take care of mine today! Little tip for those coolant hoses that are stuck, grab the base & twist, saves you from the possibility of ripping it!
Thanks for the kind words. Truth be told, I never intended this video to be anything other than my first GoPro recording experience to see how to film and edit lol.
Had grinding and whinning coming from the front end for a week. I took off the serp belt and spun the pulleys & found the water pump pulley to be the culprit. I went to Advance Auto to purchased the pump (they didnt have Ford OE pump) and some coolant. I followed your video and got the job done in an afternoon into the evening in 20 degree weather. Thank you for posting this video you saved me and my family money before a week of predicted wintery mixes throughout the week. I reused some gaskets as I inspected them and deemed them reusable. I have done water pump jobs before but this one as a bitch thanks to the Y fitting. Only thing I could recommend to others is drain the coolant in the radiator by using the drain cock of the bottom passage side. Get a hose thatll fit correctly and drain it in a clean bucket. You'll still lose a bit of coolant once the old pump is uninstalled. Thank you very much.
Man, what a great video! I love having a good idea of what I'm getting into before turning the first wrench. Thanks a ton. It took me right at an hour as well. One note... The OEM water pump from the dealer was cheaper than the aftermarket pump at Autozone and Advance.
Thank you. I bought the truck with a ton of miles on it already so I really dont have a baseline on what to expect, but there's always a ton of waterpump complaints in 5.0 FB forums.
my 2011 still has the original water pump im at 187k miles. i need to replace it now. since this one lasted me this long im going back with FoMoCo part
My 2015 just went at 62K. I think the bearing went as it is making a lot of noise and I smell antifreeze. I'm having my local mechanic do it - hopefully it isn't $700. If my truck fit in my garage I would have tackled it because I could let it sit for a few days if something didn't go right but since I'd have to do it in the street I decided to let the experts handle it. The last water pump I did was on a 1971 Chevy pickup and there was a lot more room to work back then. I was also a hell of a lot younger. This video was helpful because I was getting a good sense of the things that might go wrong and my luck usually runs that way.
I never expected this video to be any sort of tutorial, it was more or less a fun video experiment after getting a gopro for Christmas lol. I hope the vid helps and sheds light on how simple of a job it may be and as a fellow f150 driver, feel free to ask any questions you might have. Just make sure to verify how many bolts connect your WP to the WP pulley. Parts places sell em so verify first. 3 or 4 bolts.
Actually it wasn’t my water pump it was that y or T fitting on the coolant line above the water pump I haven’t replaced it yet but I’m thinking about going ahead and replacing my water pump also I have 112,000 miles
Thanks for the video. My water pump just went at 62K and I was thinking of tackling it myself but decided to let the local mechanic tackle it since things tend to go wrong for me and I could see you were having a hard time with some things. The main problem is there just isn't room to work on modern engines.
Thanks for the info! Where did you get yours at? Can you do both sides and did it help? Benefits, gas mileage, cleaner better running engine? Liked the water pump video!
Please do a narrative version. Better to know why your doing it, show and tell visors are always better when it comes to car repair, it teaches precautions, but over all it was a good video.
What is the silver cylinder that is bolted to the radiator with the two hoses coming out of it on the passenger side? Also what is the purpose of it? Thanks for any info!
Thats a catch can. It essentially ties into ur pcv line and collects the oil vapors in the can before it gets recycled into ur intake. From my understanding on these coyote engines, the pass side gets way dirtier than the drivers side, so thats the one I did.
Great video Sir - nice use of your GoPro! I'm about to do the same job on my 2013 5.0L F150. Did you happen to use a torque wrench when re-installing the water pump, throttle body, thermostat or snug them up? I don't have an inch-lbs torque wrench, wondering if I could get away without one for this job. Also, where did you order your parts from? I couldn't find the heater tube O-ring, but found the other o-rings on Amazon and water pump from RockAuto.
Thats a very good question. Ive been working on vehicles for over a decade now and torque snugness just seems to happen over time. I'm not going to recommend or suggest anything to you but what I do is snug, and then a little more oomph. Just enough lol. Harbor freight sells torque wrenches fairly cheap. May be worth it if you're uncomfortable with torquing things down. I purchased my pump from Napa (the slight leak turned into a nasty whirling sound, so I wanted to replace it that day) and the T hose and o-rings I think I went to rock auto for.
Hello. Can you explain that aluminum Can you have mounted by the top of the radiator.? Does it hook up to a pcv valve ? What’s its purpose ? Thanks. Great video.
Hey there, thanks for the question. Its called a Catch Can. Mine is UPR brand, but there's multiple companies including Ford that make them. This one replaces the factory tube that connects between your valve cover and your intake. Essentially its purpose is to catch the oil vapors from your engine before it gets recycled back through your intake for combustion. There's two beliefs of the system: they prevent oil from being sent through your intake or, its a snake oil service. Anyone who runs one has seen with their own eyes the collection of oils in the can, but I guess the main question is... does it even matter? I had my throttle plate off during this job, and there was a ton of sludge build up inside the intake. If there's sludge build up in the intake, I can only imagine where else inside the engine it is. My truck had 120k miles before I bought it so the damage was already done, but that doesnt mean I cant help prevent future problems. Sorry for the long winded response, I hope it helps lol.
My 2011 has a coolant leak. I believe it's the o rings in the Y pipe. While doing that I'm going to clean my throttle body, change belts and throw in a new thermostat. It would be a great time to change out my water pump as I see this is a common problem but mine is running fine as of right now. I'd be pissed if I do all of that work only to have my pump go out several months later.
Getting to the water pump wasn't that difficult. Honestly where you're at right now id say its 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other. Might as well do it, but could also totally do the water pump later if it ever goes bad no problem lol
Thanks. If you wanted to see the belt replaced as a how-to, thats a great idea. I ended up replacing the belt when I replaced my alternator and an idler pulley. Didnt think to record it though.
Its a hose clamp tool. Its pretty much just a pair of pliers at the end of a pull cord. Typically hose clamps can be removed by using a pair of pliers to relieve the clamping pressure, but this tool makes most clamp removals easier. amzn.to/2QjXHZ6
167k when I did the job. 171k now. There was just 1 giant o-ring that fits between the water pump and where the water pump pushes into the engine. I did replace both the T fitting and the lower rad hose about a week prior to the job, those I believe have 1 o-ring each, and the T hose has a weird plastic ring if memory serves correctly.
Does the O-ring for the metal heater outlet tube (that fits down into the top of the water pump) come with the water pump? If not, where did you get it? Thanks.
@@CorMorse I meant the small black tube that inserts into the top of the water pump. It has an O ring and I was just wondering if it came with the water pump?
Its a hose clamp tool. Cant recall where I got it but Ive had it for 15-20 years or so. Pretty much lets you squeeze hose clamps together and locks the pressure it into place
Pretty good video for someone with a little knowledge. Would have been nice to have a voice and a few more details, such as how to remove the air intake hoses...those things are a bitch
I was getting a vehicle inspection not too long ago and saw their flat rate labor sign. $175 per hour! Plus you know, 200% mark up on parts and fluids lol. Highway robbery these days.
You know what dude ...
Good video no talking , no dumb music , straight to the point
And good editing fast forwarding when needed
Only thing I would add is a shot of the tools you need , or the ones you used all laying out visibly spread out
Thats a pretty good idea. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the video, very helpful!
Ironically, I am changing my 2014 5.0 at the 167k mark as well!
I was losing coolant, thought it was the 5 dollar o ring fix in the T connector hose... found out today it's the water pump. Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much for doing this video. The water pump on my 2013 just dumped a couple gallons of coolant at the end of my driveway. This helped a lot with knowing what to expect to take off. I bought the package of new O rings for the hoses with the snap ring to remove. One thing to note is FOMOCO has a three and a four hole flange and holes on the water pump pulley. I have the four hole. I got it all together with no leaks and realized I forgot to install the new O rings...DOH!!!
Fortunately its a simple job to remove that T fitting lol.
Awesome video man! No bullshit & straight to the point! Excited (not) to take care of mine today! Little tip for those coolant hoses that are stuck, grab the base & twist, saves you from the possibility of ripping it!
Ps, what’s that blue tool you have on the intake?
Thanks man, used your video to get the job done. Appreciate you taking the time to film and edit it. I know what that’s like, and it’s a pain lol.
Thanks for the kind words. Truth be told, I never intended this video to be anything other than my first GoPro recording experience to see how to film and edit lol.
Had grinding and whinning coming from the front end for a week. I took off the serp belt and spun the pulleys & found the water pump pulley to be the culprit.
I went to Advance Auto to purchased the pump (they didnt have Ford OE pump) and some coolant. I followed your video and got the job done in an afternoon into the evening in 20 degree weather.
Thank you for posting this video you saved me and my family money before a week of predicted wintery mixes throughout the week. I reused some gaskets as I inspected them and deemed them reusable.
I have done water pump jobs before but this one as a bitch thanks to the Y fitting.
Only thing I could recommend to others is drain the coolant in the radiator by using the drain cock of the bottom passage side. Get a hose thatll fit correctly and drain it in a clean bucket. You'll still lose a bit of coolant once the old pump is uninstalled.
Thank you very much.
Man, what a great video! I love having a good idea of what I'm getting into before turning the first wrench. Thanks a ton. It took me right at an hour as well. One note... The OEM water pump from the dealer was cheaper than the aftermarket pump at Autozone and Advance.
You might want to pay extra if they are made better. A water pump should last longer than 60,000 miles.
@@scottyV1000 mines lasted around 230k miles
@@fernandobriseno8164 I guess you got one of the hood ones.
@@scottyV1000 not sure what you mean.
@@fernandobriseno8164 sorry - miss spelling - you got one of the good ones.
bearing in my water pump went today so thank you sir for the vid
Thanks for this. Best video I’ve found for doing this.
Just wrapped this job up yesterday. Your video was a perfect tutorial. Thanks for doing such a great job!
My 2013 F150 ate a water pump at 60k. Service tech told me it was very common with the 5.0. Great video.
Thank you. I bought the truck with a ton of miles on it already so I really dont have a baseline on what to expect, but there's always a ton of waterpump complaints in 5.0 FB forums.
my 2011 still has the original water pump im at 187k miles. i need to replace it now. since this one lasted me this long im going back with FoMoCo part
Ford dealership quoted me $700.00 labor on this. Looks pretty simple to me.
My 2015 just went at 62K. I think the bearing went as it is making a lot of noise and I smell antifreeze. I'm having my local mechanic do it - hopefully it isn't $700. If my truck fit in my garage I would have tackled it because I could let it sit for a few days if something didn't go right but since I'd have to do it in the street I decided to let the experts handle it. The last water pump I did was on a 1971 Chevy pickup and there was a lot more room to work back then. I was also a hell of a lot younger. This video was helpful because I was getting a good sense of the things that might go wrong and my luck usually runs that way.
@@scottyV1000what did your local mechanic charge you for the water pump replacement? What it OEM or aftermarket?
Thanks for the vid. I'm traveling and might have to do this WP replacement on the side of the road. Now i have a preview.
I never expected this video to be any sort of tutorial, it was more or less a fun video experiment after getting a gopro for Christmas lol.
I hope the vid helps and sheds light on how simple of a job it may be and as a fellow f150 driver, feel free to ask any questions you might have.
Just make sure to verify how many bolts connect your WP to the WP pulley. Parts places sell em so verify first. 3 or 4 bolts.
Mine started leaking yesterday so I’m gonna tackle it in the morning. Thx for the video
Actually it wasn’t my water pump it was that y or T fitting on the coolant line above the water pump I haven’t replaced it yet but I’m thinking about going ahead and replacing my water pump also I have 112,000 miles
Thanks for the video. My water pump just went at 62K and I was thinking of tackling it myself but decided to let the local mechanic tackle it since things tend to go wrong for me and I could see you were having a hard time with some things. The main problem is there just isn't room to work on modern engines.
Oh wow mine just hit 62k and it crapped out too .
I just changed my neighbor’s water pump last night and I was pleasantly surprised at how much room I had to work in that engine bay.
Thanks for the info! Where did you get yours at? Can you do both sides and did it help? Benefits, gas mileage, cleaner better running engine? Liked the water pump video!
Learned a long time ago when replacing the pump
Replace the t stat as well.
Thank you. Your a blessing.
Dang!
I’ve got to tackle this project tomorrow!
LOL. That water pump is a pain in the ass to get out. Just did mine.
Thank you brother
Please do a narrative version. Better to know why your doing it, show and tell visors are always better when it comes to car repair, it teaches precautions, but over all it was a good video.
What is the silver cylinder that is bolted to the radiator with the two hoses coming out of it on the passenger side? Also what is the purpose of it? Thanks for any info!
Thats a catch can. It essentially ties into ur pcv line and collects the oil vapors in the can before it gets recycled into ur intake. From my understanding on these coyote engines, the pass side gets way dirtier than the drivers side, so thats the one I did.
Huge help, thanks!
Great video Sir - nice use of your GoPro!
I'm about to do the same job on my 2013 5.0L F150. Did you happen to use a torque wrench when re-installing the water pump, throttle body, thermostat or snug them up? I don't have an inch-lbs torque wrench, wondering if I could get away without one for this job.
Also, where did you order your parts from? I couldn't find the heater tube O-ring, but found the other o-rings on Amazon and water pump from RockAuto.
Thats a very good question. Ive been working on vehicles for over a decade now and torque snugness just seems to happen over time. I'm not going to recommend or suggest anything to you but what I do is snug, and then a little more oomph. Just enough lol. Harbor freight sells torque wrenches fairly cheap. May be worth it if you're uncomfortable with torquing things down.
I purchased my pump from Napa (the slight leak turned into a nasty whirling sound, so I wanted to replace it that day) and the T hose and o-rings I think I went to rock auto for.
@@CorMorse Thank you!
Hello. Can you explain that aluminum Can you have mounted by the top of the radiator.? Does it hook up to a pcv valve ? What’s its purpose ? Thanks. Great video.
Hey there, thanks for the question. Its called a Catch Can. Mine is UPR brand, but there's multiple companies including Ford that make them. This one replaces the factory tube that connects between your valve cover and your intake. Essentially its purpose is to catch the oil vapors from your engine before it gets recycled back through your intake for combustion. There's two beliefs of the system: they prevent oil from being sent through your intake or, its a snake oil service.
Anyone who runs one has seen with their own eyes the collection of oils in the can, but I guess the main question is... does it even matter? I had my throttle plate off during this job, and there was a ton of sludge build up inside the intake. If there's sludge build up in the intake, I can only imagine where else inside the engine it is. My truck had 120k miles before I bought it so the damage was already done, but that doesnt mean I cant help prevent future problems.
Sorry for the long winded response, I hope it helps lol.
My 2011 has a coolant leak. I believe it's the o rings in the Y pipe. While doing that I'm going to clean my throttle body, change belts and throw in a new thermostat. It would be a great time to change out my water pump as I see this is a common problem but mine is running fine as of right now. I'd be pissed if I do all of that work only to have my pump go out several months later.
Getting to the water pump wasn't that difficult. Honestly where you're at right now id say its 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other. Might as well do it, but could also totally do the water pump later if it ever goes bad no problem lol
Informative video. Would have liked to see belt replaced thou
Thanks. If you wanted to see the belt replaced as a how-to, thats a great idea. I ended up replacing the belt when I replaced my alternator and an idler pulley. Didnt think to record it though.
Thanks for posting. What is that tool with the blue handles and is it necessary for the job?
Its a hose clamp tool. Its pretty much just a pair of pliers at the end of a pull cord. Typically hose clamps can be removed by using a pair of pliers to relieve the clamping pressure, but this tool makes most clamp removals easier.
amzn.to/2QjXHZ6
Thanks , sometimes those clamps are a pain trying to get channellocks in tight places
Did u replace all of those o rings. N how many was it ?? How many miles on ur 5.0
167k when I did the job. 171k now. There was just 1 giant o-ring that fits between the water pump and where the water pump pushes into the engine. I did replace both the T fitting and the lower rad hose about a week prior to the job, those I believe have 1 o-ring each, and the T hose has a weird plastic ring if memory serves correctly.
There a 5/8 hose connector to drain the coolant on the passenger side of the radiator
Lol not 5/8 sorry more like 3/8
Yep that's what I'm going to do the efen thing as ittl leak some where else. How many miles did u have on it ?
167k when I replaced it. Think I just rolled 170k miles the other day.
Mine at 140
Does the O-ring for the metal heater outlet tube (that fits down into the top of the water pump) come with the water pump? If not, where did you get it? Thanks.
The o-ring that fits between the water pump and engine? It came with the pump I purchased from napa.
@@CorMorse I meant the small black tube that inserts into the top of the water pump. It has an O ring and I was just wondering if it came with the water pump?
@@fredmeyer3063 Oh ok. that one does not come with the water pump. its part of that hose
From start to finish how long did it take to change water pump?
About an hour. Thats with messing with a camera and some family interactions. Really isnt a bad job considering it's location.
Thanks
What tools is that blue one?
Its a hose clamp tool. Cant recall where I got it but Ive had it for 15-20 years or so. Pretty much lets you squeeze hose clamps together and locks the pressure it into place
My work truck is a 14,5.0 dealer charged my company 1800$ for a water pump and two hoses.
I changed my water pump without taking the throttle body off
Pretty good video for someone with a little knowledge. Would have been nice to have a voice and a few more details, such as how to remove the air intake hoses...those things are a bitch
Así se cambia la water pump
I hate when the socket stays on the bolt head!😡
if this only took you an hr why tf was I quoted $750 including a coolant flush lmao
I was getting a vehicle inspection not too long ago and saw their flat rate labor sign. $175 per hour! Plus you know, 200% mark up on parts and fluids lol. Highway robbery these days.
You dont need to move the throttle body! waste of time
Think I had to remove it to get to a bolt, can't remember. Either way 4 bolts for the tb for better access isn't a waste of time lol
I search “2015” TH-cam gives me 2014. Fucking hate TH-cam