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I didn't know there was a setting to adjust it. Kinda figured it was how it was built. I'll probably head up to the barn tomorrow, I'll look for any ways to lock it in place or to increase tension.

@DrDjones You get what you pay for lol. It's cheap, but if ur comfortable with doing ur own repairs and upgrades, it's worth the price tag. The auction markets are pretty flooded right now, prolly a good time to buy if ur ready to pull the trigger.

Its a hose clamp tool. Cant recall where I got it but Ive had it for 15-20 years or so. Pretty much lets you squeeze hose clamps together and locks the pressure it into place

I'm not sure. This system takes 2 lines from the existing FEL lines and runs them into a new solenoid for the 3rd function. I assume its just a supply and return.

Think I had to remove it to get to a bolt, can't remember. Either way 4 bolts for the tb for better access isn't a waste of time lol

Had a buddy who's dad was a tin knocker. I was able to get a large piece of 1/8th in metal from him. The rest (smaller flat stock and rebar) can be purchased at ur local big box hardware store. I try to keep my projects cost effective, so if I can trade or find used items off the marketplace, thats the best option.

I was getting a vehicle inspection not too long ago and saw their flat rate labor sign. $175 per hour! Plus you know, 200% mark up on parts and fluids lol. Highway robbery these days.

Nope. Connects from the bucket controls. Check out 1:50 mark

Thanks for the comment. I'm still happy with the setup. The grapple on the other hand... it was cheap, and definitely shows in the quality. The right side 2-prong arm out front is bent pretty good. Still functions as it should though, so no real complaints. I did bash up my grill bad the other day, so an open arm grapple like I have may not be the best implement to use for clearing trees and brush. I had to do some digging to find what happened with the link. Ive since updated my post to reflect the new link, but here it is if you're in the market: everythingattachments.com/tractor-loader-3rd-function-hydraulic-kit/

@@CorMorse Thank You for the updated link. I prefer the at my finger tip style over mechanical (have to reach for it) style. I prefer the price of mechanical though. Hoping in the spring for this and a root rake grapple as I'm fighting Sumac. Gary's sold out to Clifton's but same number and address if your still in this area code.

@@normhowes2975 Oh ur local too! Yup, I sometimes get my stone from Cliftons, their prices are good. I was chatting w the guys there over the summer and if Micron comes through, they'd be more than willing to sell their land and walk away. I don't blame them honestly, u can put a Mahindra dealer anywhere from Mexico to Lafayette and it'll still get business. They have 2 other Clifton bulk lots in the area too, so no loss there.

@@CorMorse I'm not that far North of Great Northern Mall. They could put a dealership in Hastings and I would still go there. Can't blame them if they sold to Micron.

@@normhowes2975 Wow we really could be neighbors. My property is about 10 mins north of Great Northern lol

Thats a catch can. It essentially ties into ur pcv line and collects the oil vapors in the can before it gets recycled into ur intake. From my understanding on these coyote engines, the pass side gets way dirtier than the drivers side, so thats the one I did.

I wish I knew more about tractors to help you out, but it almost sounds like an engine problem. Since the hydraulics pull power from the engine, if the engine isn't running as good as it should, id assume you'd get some sort of chugging or hesitation. Id start by replacing all filters, but after that... idk.

@@CorMorse my engine seems to run fine. I just checked. Only got 36 hours on it. I'll get it figured out.

@@sobrietydrummer2 Good luck, and let me know what u find!

I would check fluid level. When a hydraulic is used, it pulls fluid from a reservoir so if the fluid is low, it will suck air and stutter. Best way to see this is with a hydraulic vehicle lift. Watch the reservoir when the lift is up and when it comes down. Also check for leaks wherever you park it. 36 hours isn't much, but anything can happen. If you park on dirt the easiest way to check is put cardboard under it.

If u dont live in the rust belt like I do, it should be a pretty easy job. Good luck!

Its nice, bring able to carry a saw with you. The top area is pretty beat up from the saw dogs, but it still works and hasnt broken off yet lol.

Yeah, I noticed on hilly ground it would slice right through. Is that normal on new brush hogs or just 'good2go' for this one?

Mike Allen, what did you order for the replacement? Ive been looking for something to replace mine also.

Yes, mine did the same thing. I had them welded twice. Welder said horrible design and metal. Where did you get the aftermarket ones to fit? Thanks.

What! I'll have to look into that! Could always add a USB port so I can charge my phone now lol.

Ya know, I guess after so many years of welding on machines, I kinda just stopped disconnecting the battery and nothing bad hasn't happened... yet. lol.

Right next to the dipstick located by your feet. Kind of a pain in the butt to fill

@@CorMorse “right next to”…? Or do you mean the same hole on the floor between my feet with the cap that says “oil” and has a dipstick attached to it? There is nothing else down there except for the single cap/dipstick that says “oil” on it. I saw someone else ask about the 1/2” plug/nut above the PTO, nothing goes in there?

@@2dollab178 Hmm, I don't have my tractor right in front of me, but on my 1626 hst I'm pretty sure there's a separate dipstick. Either way, that cap is for the hydraulic system, which is separate from the front axle.

@@CorMorse oh gotcha, I have the 1626 shuttle, maybe there’s a difference in that regard. How about that 1/2” square nut/plug above the PTO in the rear? Do you have one of those on your HST and if so, do you know what it’s for?