Stop treating your Jeep 4.0L like a MODERN ENGINE... It isn't one!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2022
- The Jeep 4,0L inline 6 cylinder engine was in use by AMC and later Chrysler as a prominent power plant for Jeeps from 1986 to 2006. This engine was designed with 1970's and early 80's technology and only moderately upgraded through its production life. It wasn't a modern engine in 1986 and it isn't a modern engine today.. Stop treating it like one!
In this video we will go over a simple "Saturday afternoon tune up" to try to bring a couple MPG back to the tired old 4.0
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We hope you enjoyed this video and will keep in mind that all information included is intended to be purely academic and in fact is only the opinion of D&E. We are not professionals, nor are we qualified to knight you a professional. D&E want to ensure that anyone modify or fixing their own vehicle does so in a safe manner which leaves the vehicle in a legal, roadworthy state. In short, DON'T BE A MONKEY WITH A TOOL BOX! If you don't know what you are doing, leave it the professionals! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
People who watch your channel the first time and don’t know your slang probably think you’re slow lol
I am..
That is the best part !
He's just my speed, maybe I'm slow?
I think if you watch enough car guys, you come to expect they all have their own slang.
@@DEInTheGarage lol
Great video and good advice, the 4.0 is basically the AMC 199/232/258 that was first introduced in 1964 as the "Typhoon 6" and really didn't change much until the end. I took a 4.0 out of a wrecked 2001 cherokee and it bolted right into a 74 AMC gremlin with no mods other than a adding an electric fuel pump, the old 258 intake and carb even bolted right on the same place.. One of the best engines ever made that was in use for like 50 years. With some simple "old school" maintenance they can go 300K miles.
Had an 81 concorde 258 320thousand oil pump failed killed it wrecked wrangler provided a transplant just like you say all bolted right back in down a little power after seat dino wise but alas it sold it 125thousand later. Still miss that tank.
I beat the snot out of my 99 4.0, just regular oil changes at 3k miles, and plugs. She was over 300k when I sold it.
Yuuup, The way I understand it, the 258 became the 4.0 with a new head design and a different crank stroke. Which leads me to the stroker 4.0, man those things can get with it in the power department! My 99 TJ has 208K on it, clatters a bit but runs great. I have gone through an re-sealed the whole thing so it doesn't just dribble out the bottom lol. OHHH I have read several times on multiple forums etc. that the Champion copper plugs are the ones the 4.0 prefers so I just run them. STP is an amazing lubricant by it's self,,, try it on something, you might be shocked how well it works. I wish they hadn't changed the motor mount locations and accessory mounting locations on the later 4.0, just makes it harder to find a used low milage replacement for an older vehicle.
I like the old school AMC's Rambler sixes
My dad's 1992 Cherokee is still going at 342k. Puffs a little blue smoke when it starts, definitely rattles like a worn out tractor, and a rebuild is definitely on the horizon - but if it needed to, I bet it could run another 100k.
Bought my 01 XJ in 2013, sold it with over 311,000 miles. I picked up an '00 XJ last February. It's just getting broke in with 170K miles.
Love the 4.0.
I daily an 01 TJ with a 4.0 and I love it. I've been un-f**king the prior owner's "updates" for a few years now plus learning how to weld! Good to see you again, Doug!
I daily an 04….waiting for parts to come in to remove power window kit and go back to manual.
In the same boat and same year as you
@@scottluffman927 I daily a 2014 4 door. I miss my 97 tj, minnesota ate it. I do really like my modern jeep, it just doesnt feel as jeep. Kicks ass offroad tho
@@mails5054would you rather daily your 97 TJ or stick with the 2014
We own a stock 2002 WJ 4x4 4L. Awesome vehicle bought before Covid for 4k, one owner. Hands down best vehicle for the money we ever owned.
You don't have to unplug the power rail from the wiring harness to change the plugs. Just move it aside; there's room. Don't argue - there is.
You can clean the 4.0, but put a plastic bag over the throttle body and don't use engine "cleaner" around it or rinse in the area with high pressure water- be extra mindful of the TPS.
Draining your oil with the filler cap on will not lock the cap on or keep the oil from draining fully. The cap being off may or may not affect draining time, but negligibly, if at all.
Do clean the corrosion from your battery. It creates higher impedance between the battery and the starting/charging components, which causes higher load at startup along with less efficient charging, which together, degrade your battery capacity and overall battery life faster.
I do use the iridium split tip plugs and get great performance from them for typically 60-70k miles.
Modern spark plugs DO provide better spark and last longer in ALL engines.
The idea behind newer technology is that it does in fact work better than old.
I agree. I was puzzled as to why he took it off. I move mine, and just check for wear. More plugging/unplugging causes extra wear. Also, I clean mine religiously and have 275,000k miles. Cover oil, trans dipsticks, and the alternator, and it usually is good to go! I think that is the worst of his advice. A clean engine is easier to diagnose.
Unfortunately, the new technology is focused on reducing emissions and not performance.
Definitely true look a a deleted Cummings alot more power engine is cleaner as it's not recycling exhaust etc etc . @@Nigriff
Newer doesn’t always mean better, especially when engineers either have their heads up their a$$es or have their hands tied by regulations or micro-managing executives.
It's always a great day when Doug uploads a video. I never thought about it, but yeah, a Jeep 4.0 is just like my 64 and 68 Harley Davidson motorcycles. Always go with copper, I replace plugs each season and oil with zinc as needed
My daily driver is a '98 TJ wrangler. All original 4.0 is still going strong. Oil, Coolant, and gas are all needed to run forever.
Last week I bought a case of STP because I was checking out Jeep forums, glad to see you made a video to lock in that it was the good thing to do. Forums can be all over the place with opinions on additives.
Don't spend a fortune on an overpriced, overengineered pile of junk that is the overwhelming majority of modern vehicles. Get an older one and restore it. Cheaper in the long run, better build quality and easy to work on yourself.
That’s why I bought a 100 series land cruiser. Built Toyota tough.
Same reason I’m restoring an 89 jeep Comanche, more than enough truck for my hauling needs, reliable easy to work on and most parts are easy to find, low registration/insurance, no car mortgage payment and unmatched cool factor.
Getting rid of my 2005 Forester XT this month. It run great up to 140K though Changing its turbo was a nightmare...
Sorry to say but newer cars last longer, like my 2006 jeeps have over 150k and they still run great, and look great and are almost 20 years old, older cars only lasted 10 years
@@rob136916 Well a 2006 isn't what I consider newer, lol. The issues have been in vehicle's built since the 2008/09 recession and government bailout. It's the same thing with the RV industry, newer than 08/09 have terrible QC. I have a 1997 Pontiac, 2008 Cadillac and a 1974 GMC C1500 and all are still running great and both the 1997 and 74 are extremely cheap to repair.
Love the content man. Gotta love an old 4.0. I try to drive mine at least once a week (80+ miles round trip).
Thankyou! definitely appreciate and dig this!
Just put a new starter in my 04 4.0 HO today after it sat for 3 years….fired straight up, kinda forgot how much my Family and I Love this thing!
CHEERS!
Zack Daniels ~
watched your older videos on the importance of zinc in the 4.0 and running rotella T5 instead of newer oils. stoked to try the change to rotella in my 4.2L 89 YJ. someone with an 88 comanche commented and said making the switch was a game changer not only for engine wear but also sound of the engine
I miss my 96 Jeep with the 4.0 it was amazing I got her up to 500k and after that the motor went boom and the frame was shot so I had to let her go but I’m determined to find another one like her
Spark plugs all are copper cores, just the tips are different. Platinums and Iridiums work fine and will last much longer contrary to what was stated. Also a very easy way to get the extra needed ZDDP just use a diesel oil.
Zddp has been found to clogged catalytic converters other then that good to go if u have burned out or no cat
The only time any need for concern about ZDDP is if you're burning a large amount of oil. Much larger amounts of ZDDP were used in all catalytic converter vehicles for over 40+ years without an issue. ZDDP does not hurt anything if your engine is in order.@@danielkirkpatrick1098
@@danielkirkpatrick1098except flat tappet cams require zinc. 🤣
I've heard some arguments on the added zinc is mainly needed for high compression racing flat tappet engines which a Jeep 4.0L is not? I'm certainly no expert so I don't know for sure. @@punkrocker10115
In the 80's I worked on many AMC 232's and 253's great engines, very reliable if taken care of!
Outstanding vid (‘02 & ‘03 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, 4.0L I6 owner here)…subbed! And fortunately both of my Laredo 4x4’s are in immaculate condition inside and out, with very low mileage.
I missed the boot on cylinder 1 once... Made a wired sucking/pooping noise... You can definitely tell something is Wrong if you miss one 😅
Glad as hell I found this channel. Sussex County 2004 WJ owner and I love that damn thing like I love my daughters. Bought it last year and did the normal mods but every weekend out there tinkering and changing things. Love the simplicity of it, the 4.0 even though I’m a V8 guy this I6 is a warrior.
My kids love it too. It may be one of the best vehicles I ever purchased and I hope that it lasts as it has 142k from original owner and some standard undercarriage rot but nothing that can’t be cleaned up and Fluid Film coated.
Appreciate the insights an straight forward stuff
I am GLAD I found this channel. Can’t wait for more
Dude, you cracked me up with some of what you said. So spot on IMO. Why do so many people overthink everything these day, and some do not think at all and fall for the fake news. My rule as being a Industrial tech over the years is KISS. Thanks for sharing brother. Good stuff. Cheers from Motown.
Good video but I would have to disagree with a couple of things. I have a 1999 TJ with over 350000 miles (got it new) and I have used Champion Platinum Power Spark Plugs since I can remember. I do agree that the expensive ones are a waste of money but an upgrade above the cheap coppers have worked out for me. Also, I have never put zinc additive in my oil. Engine still runs like a champ, given it's age. Now I have used synthetic oil since it hit around 100000 miles and as I have mentioned, it runs like a champ. The most important thing I can say is change your oil and spark plugs religiously as well as your ignition wires (as per the manufacturer). The 4.0L is a rock solid engine. If you take care of it, it will last a long time.
'97 4.0L with 224,534 on the odometer as it sits right now in the driveway. Just replaced the spark plugs, distributor cap/rotor (ACCEL units) and ignition coil. That had nearly 100,000 miles on them... the cap had carbon tracks and build up, rotor was showing carbon wear. The plugs could have been wire brushed, gapped and reused (didn't though)..
Dose not use any oil, starts and runs great.
Actually, the 4.0 straight six has been around since the AMC days. It's been updated along the way to comply EPA whatnot. Great engine, cheers! :-)
i believe it was a 4.2 though
My dad said he had a 242 straight 6 in his old Rambler. Back then they had a rep for being bullet proof.
@@timkaldahlif was a rambler would think it was a 199, 232, or 258, the 242 was the displacement of the 4.0 which wasn't until the 80s,, regardless they're all basically the same engine other than the displacement and have much interchangeability of parts
The basic straight 6 was from the rambler days, 199,232,&258 cubic inches, the 4.0 or 242 and 4.2 or 258, were the displacements used after chrysler purchased amc
I'm glad you're back! I've missed the Jeep content!
I haven't been watching much TH-cam lately but when I do watch I always enjoy your channel
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I see the WJ 4.0 as the last chance to own an old school style reliable vehicle especially if you DELETE anything that has to do with a computer.
I recently switched over to the Viper Mod coil and wires. I'd been having problems with misfires and pulling the coil rail and putting it back in every time I needed to do some diagnostics wore pretty thin. Best $90 spent.
98 XJ, pretty much just got..couple months old. It's "well loved" looking to do some things with it..just not sure what first. Great video and channel
Love the tip about always removing the oil filler cap before draining. That happened to me a few months ago on my ‘02 Grand Cherokee when the cap disintegrated in my hand while the oil was pouring out the bottom. After some cursing, begging, pleading and praying, the cap threads came out allowing me to refill and limp to the parts store for a new cap.
I always take it off first and set it right on the hood latch. That way if you forget to put it back in, you'll find out when you close the hood. Will cost a new cap, but better than forgetting and it just falling off on the road and not knowing.
Thanks for the zinc tip! I use mine as a daily & it’s great, but the dirty air filter was making me crazy. Good video!
rotella t6 15w40 is enough zinc for 4.0 ?
Same thing on my late 90's OBS's. I have a Silverado, k1500 Cheyenne, and a Suburban. The vortec engines are basically a old school small blocks with fuel injection.
I replaced my coil pack with the viper mod. One of my favorite swaps I've done.
I'm doing that next to mine. I also bought the BBK throttle body too
Viper mod?? Please elaborate. 04 WJ 4.0 4wd 228k 🤔
K suspension
Viper coil mod
Google it
Worth every penny easier to relocate coil and make plugs easier to access.
What is that mod 🤔
Look up Ksuspensionfab, he sells the kit, it's awesome. I've done it in my WJ. It gets rid of the coil rail and uses a dodge viper ignition coil and spark plugs wires, comes with the wiring harness and bracket to mount it.
Dang nice timing, I just bought one of these witches today with 242k miles and 5 different tire pressures. The break pedal whispers curses and theirs a family of roaches I intend to…evict…but I’m in love with this 4.0 i6 and I can actually crawl under it without lifting…I can and will be wrenching. Subbed ya. 👌🏻
roaches are way better than field mice...but vermin aren't good inhabiting any vehicle
You’d be better off running a diesel oil in it for zinc content. There’s some VOAs out there that show that subtracting the amount motor oil and substituting the STP it actually lowers the over all ppm of zinc that in just a decent motor oil. It’s basically just motor honey
Use vr1 Valvoline
What do I wanna see? Well for starters, I really miss your car news videos; your history videos were also really interesting. And finally, it's been so long that I don't really remember what projects you had going, but I do know that I want to see that Dakota project go forward!!! :D
i have done the viper coil conversion to my 2001 wj and it is amazing i will never go back to a coil rail ever!!!
Another way to make your 4.0L last longer is to get rid of that K&N style air filter. They are horrible at filtering the air going into your motor. A factory style quality paper filter is best. The extra 5 hp at 6,000 rpm isn’t worth the extra dirt in your motor.
Great video!
I agree !!!
I have wondered where you been, bro! Glad to see you're still at it! Great vid! Much love and respect from N Florida. 😎
I just started doing my own maintenance on my 94 zj 250k+ miles. I wanted to do a transmission flush and replace the govenor solenoid and pressure sensor. Many have told me not to mess with the transmission at all. Any additional knowledge on this would be great. Awesome video 👍
I just watched your video. Big th!. I'm a 2001 4.0 WJ/WG owner...thanks for keeping my spirits up :). Greatings from Poland
Best thing I ever did on my 4.0 WJ was the dodge viper coil pack conversion it made a little difference driving but made the maintenance 10x easier.
That’s on my to do list.
Any boost on mileage?
I have a '06 Wrangler. This guy knows his stuff. Living in the deep south (Mississippi), I use diesel engine oil. It contains the zinc and other good stuff that the 4.0L needs.
Great video, I've got a 2000 TJ SPORT with 190k on the 4.0L and had to change the starter right before Thanksgiving last year, I chuckled at your starter comment. More importantly, I just picked up my 5th JEEP, a 1996 XJ SPORT with gasp, 388k on the 4.0L.I recently changed the oil and had added the STP oil treatment to it before I saw your video. It runs great but I already was about to change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, yes a 1996 still has a distributer. I didn't know about the preference of Copper plugs as I'd already bought an Iridium set. I haven't gapped them yet so I'll probably run back up to the parts store and get some cheapo copper ones instead. Great fun video, cheers from Cheyenne, Wyoming, I run my JEEPs at just over 6,000 feet elev., JEEPS RULE!
Never driven one but I did a little wrenching on a Wrangler with a 4.0, incredibly simple. Great info in this vid!
Edit: "Daily a 4 liter" I like it. I'm getting back to dailying my 94 Land Cruiser with a 4.5L, that gets AT BEST 10mpg around town.
And I thought my v8 Explorer was bad at 15 mpg….
@@BillLaBrie I'd love 15 city. I do get about 14 on highway though, which with 25 gallons of fuel isn't half bad.
glad to see you back on the tubes and that the old girl is still kicking... still waiting on that dakota to bark to life tho
it's so true the 4.0 like copper plugs, i got mine it had iridium or something and it just didn't run quite right, swapped in copper and it runs like a champ
My kind of friend 👊 ..and I'm pushing 308 thousand on my 92 ... best tips on the plugs and oil 🏆 🏆 🏆 ✌️
I run Shell Rotella T6 Full synthetic 15/40 in mine. Loaded with ZDDP
My 95 Jeep XJ that I purchased NEW now has 455,000 miles. Runs perfect, 3,000 mile oil changes uses about 1/4 of a quart. Only internal engine maintenance was a Timing set at about 350,000 just because I thought it was a good idea. 15w40 Mobil Delvac Diesel oil.
You are right on the STP zinc.
STP oil filters are well made too.
"Back in the day" I tried a super duper mega coil on my 98 TJ that was guaranteed to increase midrange and mpg. Not the slightest hint of difference vs. Stock.i had a long uphill pull, and it went to the exact same speed up that hill in same gear. That said, I still have that super-duper coil. It is a godsend on point engines. It currently lives on my 1958 Deere.
K suspension single coil is what I did to get rid of that crazy multi coil system.
When my old coils went bad, I upgraded to k suspension worth every dollar
Do they add any power or more efficient burning? I was thinking of upgrading to the MSD coil rails, the K Suspension any better?
@@NeuKrofta not that I can tell, it just replaces that long dual coil rail. What does make it the big difference is the wiring upgrade kit he sells, highly recommend.
@@brentdutcher2875 thanks man, I'll look into it
@@XxggxX8
Gage, have a Wrangler 4.0
Where can I find this K suspension ?
Thx
Rick
❤ my 2000 Grand Cherokee 4x4, nice and clean, runs like a top with 170k miles, gets about 16mpg with about 75% highway driving
"Do Not Clean The Motor!!" I've always heard and lived by "A Dirty Jeep Is A Happy Jeep!" Mine is a stockish '05 LJ with the 4.0 and while not daily it is driven a few times a week.
Its about time,lol . Thanks for the video. So far I love my 4.7 , 250k and runs fine.
Champion cheap is what that engine likes. I put fancy ones in mine and drove cross country and in a few days I went to change the oil and turned it off and then I went to restart it to warn the oil up it wouldn't start. The fancy plugs were clogged up.
Just sharing some knowledge as a person in California with a 95 4.0 liter that's young in terms of mileage at about 180k. Yes that zinc will wear out your CAT faster and that means you might have more trouble with SMOG. What I would suggest though is that at least in my experience a CAT in a 4.0 liter will usually wear out every 4 years anyways. So what I do now is quite simple, every other smog check, since they happen every two years, I go into my SMOG guy and fail the first time like clockwork. The thing is if you buy an aftermarket CAT from an auto parts store like oreilly or autozone they usually have a 5 year warranty. I already have one on my Jeep from the first time I failed SMOG. So I get the CAT cut at my SMOG guys and then I get a ride down to the store I bought the CAT and ask to redeem the warranty, since it is the only reason I am failing SMOG. Brand new CAT for free and most exhaust shops only charge about 100 dollars to cut and weld a new CAT. More than I would like to pay but it gets the job done to pass SMOG. As far as I know its cheaper than going somewhere to get a "legitimate SMOG check" as I have always been told the going rate on that is about 200 dollars. Been doing this warranty swap game for about 6-8 years now. Another note is that if you go in and and find that you are failing SMOG even though last time you got it smogged two years ago you replaced the CAT, try getting a new O2 sensor. This knowledge only applies to older 4.0s that predate OBD2 as far as I know though. As I mentioned mine is a 95 and my exhaust and emissions systems are incredibly simple. 1 O2 sensor and 1 CAT is all it has and it even predates EGR systems. With that simplicity emissions being high has always been the 02 or CAT for me every time. Even in California where standards are high you can keep your 4.0 in good shape and meet emissions standards.
In the midwest we just cut that cat off. California is killing your jeep
CARB and the fed EPA required All smog devices to last 100k miles or 10years. Even back in the 80's with the zink in the oil. Today its 200k miles. Your ignition timing and AFR are probably way off.
@@dimedriver I think it might have been. This past test was the first time I passed 2 in a row. I think my computer may have finally figured it out. Not sure of that. Also my o2 sensor on it fail WAY MORE often than 100k miles or 10 years. More like between 2 and 4 years, same as the CAT. I believe you, but I can only speak to my personal experience.
Fortunately, in my state, we don't have to worry about things you do in Commifornia
Those wjs look very nice when you build them up. Wish I had seen it earlier when they were selling super cheap and in really good shape.
I just picked mine up for $800
4.0, selec trac 32” tires with brand new spare on wrangler wheels
There’s a bunch more on marketplace just gotta keep your eyes open and get someone to actually respond
Nice vid - appreciate MOST of the info. Some things I do have issue with is: describing it as an old engine because it has pushrods. These are still used on many current engines, included the much valued Chev LS motor. Also, just because ot was made 25 years ago doesnt mean we cant take advantage of advancements in spark plugs, oil and more. Also zinc is used mostly on breakin, because, as you said, destroys cats. I prefer to use the oil it was designed for.
Just sold my 96 Cherokee with the 4.0 a few months ago. 543,000 miles ran perfect but the body was completely rotted away
I own a 2000 WJ 4.0L. Great towing car. Cheers from Australia 🦘
If push comes to shove, and the oil cap won't come out, you can always pull the PCV out of the valve cover and pour the oil in there. The oil cap position isn't located at any specific position that would be decidedly advantageous other than being a bigger hole. All the oil ends up taking the return passages in the head regardless of where it's poured in. There may or may not be a baffle under the PCV, which would slow down the flow, but still an option.
Oil cap comes apart! Truly (22 yr dealer mech all mopar) you just got to go under it with a pry stick thingy and pop it apart (outer piece has roll over locking tabs to the inner threaded cap). Then take the threaded part off with a pliers - reassemble it while off on the core support by inverting cap and small smack with hand to threaded piece snaps then back together - if your not to ham handed with it coming apart!
Cheers all!
Doug, I really appreciate your honest sermons pertaining to all things Jeep. It’s been a blessing as I’m buttoning up my engine swap in my 1991 Briarwood. Can you give some likewise insight as to injectors? Mine are the originals, still, after 31 years and 203k miles. Type, brand…what do you use and recommend? My sincere thanks.
Dude, I'm with u! ...changed out my old copper for some iridium and i kept them for a reason... I just needed a little convincing that I'm not crazy lol cuz i swear it ran better before (with copper)
Watching this man pull the "coil rail" stunned me. I've been around numerous 4.0 engines and have never seen one of those. All have run off of a distributor.
99+ 4.0 stopped using distributors
@@andyclemente4205 that's really interesting, I would be curious to know why they made the switch. I've never had issues with the ignition system other than regular maintenance related stuff.
The 4.0 was in fact designed to run on 10w40 motor oil, original specs called for as high as 20w50 in warm climates, 10w30 is the absolute lightest weight oil you should ever put in a 4.0. I run 15w40 in mine.
FSM states u can use 5W-30 in cold climates
@@code_xj Not ideal, too thin, 5w40 would be better.
I use 10 30 full synthetic and when it is 32 degrees or colder I put a little Marvel's mystery oil in it, helps a ton with cold starts
@@manbearpig2164 Mine starts easily in the cold with 15w40 in it.
Ive used 10-30 for 80% of our 4.0s life.. it has 420k now, i have two AMC 360 engines and a 360 magnum in my 98 ZJ, the 360 magnum is fine on 10-30. The 4.0 is fine on 10-30 and so is the amc 360. But i have been using 5-40 or 0-40 European Mobile 1 FS oil in my amc 360 and it REALLY quiets the engine up and runs much better.. I put it in the 4.0 and same. and yes i use 0-40 in my AMC360.. it runs great.. i picked the FS european oil because its ZINC content according to mobile 1 is like 1200-1300ppm or something. Regular oil is like 800ppm now.
I would never put 15-40 in my engines, thats way too thick for initial startup
Actually those were 258 cubic inch Rambler engines from I think,1965. They had seven main bearings and were as tough as a box of rocks. Not great on emissions or gas mileage but very rugged!
More junkyard content please!
Can do! Stay tuned :-)
Many people with the old corvairs like myself just use shell rotella because we had a oil engineer do some looking and he found out that it is effectively the best stuff to use.
I daily a '96 xj, and it does great. I've had it for less than 2 years, and it's due for a second oil chage. No major problems(excluding all the cooling parts and leaks and some suspension parts I got fixed when I first bought it) except for camshaft and crankshaft sensors recently, and the alternator. Gas mileage has surprised me quite a bit on the highway. Odometer has low 200k miles, but less than 100k driven miles, because it was towed behind a motorhome. I get anywhere from 12 to 14mpg if I'm lucky, and not driving to crazy around town. Then going on the highway at least 65-70mph loaded or not i've seen 21.5 to almost 24mpg. Not a bad first vehicle, just gotta stay somewhat focused with a solid axle vehicle.
Don't forget fuel and air filters! Make a big difference honestly
Good to see another fresh video bud!
You are the Best. Love the Info. I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 V6..it is a simple and easy engine to work on and maintain. I Love this Engine.
There's nothing like a good bottle of Shell Rotella T4 use to use that stuff in my 93 GMC it loved it
I put iridiums in my 2001 wj a year ago and it is running great so far knock on wood.
I use shell Rotella T6 in my Jeep. Works great. Lots of zinc...
I'd love to see a series about getting this thing back on the road. My '99 WJ 4.0 has been sitting for a few years because the radiator is blown. I'd love to get her back on the road.
Radiator? Easiest fix ever for less than 100 bucks.
@@FC0BCA7E7A currently half way done with the repair!!!
I really want more of your automotive history videos and the comedy videos !
I watch all your stuff and really dig it, but the comedy and history stuff really shines
Great vid! Champion coppers or bust! Just hit 427.5k on my ‘99, uncracked motor and trans.
enjoyed I'm making an overland 95 XJ It needs some love
Helpful tips, but a stock 4.0L does not benefit from zinc additive. Although it has a flat tappet cam, the valve spring pressures are so low, that all a Zinc additive is doing is killing your cat convertors. 4.0L's are known for shedding lots of iron in used oil analysis (mainly from the timing chain) and I had several reports from a few of mine with single digit iron wear numbers on regular modern Pennzoil 10w30 and Valvoline 10w30. A brand new engine that hasn't been broken in, or a 4.6L stroker with an aggressive lift cam is a different story, but the break-in on those usually includes running at a sustained RPM for a period of time with a high zinc oil to break in the cam. Check out the jeepstrokers forum. ;)
Pretty much. When I was rebuilding I found out they are very low speed and spring pressures involved so "zinc-ing" this motor is a waste of time "these days" since the oils are way better. Running bigger lift and more power is when you use it. Break in only really but I ran RP (non-sae) and it was more than good enough. When I rebuild the stock motor (first one) on my other newer XJ I'd apply the same principle. As for my first one which is basically a street driven race motor all these problems people having doing these mythical jeep "hot-rodding" tricks, I don't have them because I don't do them. I'm glad I didn't get sucked into all the crap a lot of these old jeep guys do.
No, in my experience as a machinist, it's coming from the cylinder walls. Those 4.0s are made of VERY soft iron compared to the older LA blocks. They hone so much faster that I have to be careful not to overshoot the bore size. That said, I've had several come in that were still in running condition with over .060" of taper at the top of the cylinder. An ecoboost engine would be over halfway through it's cylinder liner at that point.
Doug good to see you again we missed you!
My 4.0 cherokees engine is spotless 😂 I was always told to run Rotella in it 15-40 for the zinc
Just found your channel i guess were brothers now as I just bought a 2006 jeep grand cherokee and i love her!! She isn NOT running unless i smash the gas but dont want to do that as oil looks like mud on fingers from dip stick want to work on engine but would rather pull the 4.7L v8 and swap with straight 6! Can I? straight drop in? let me know jeep bro!! found straight 6 already super excited so yes let me know straight drop or no? And oil smells like gassss baaaaddd!!! Greetings from Paducah Ky! Thanks bro, Chris
I just use Wix filters (mounted via a '87-91 oil filter adapter so I don't have to deal with the T60 torx bit found on later OFAs) and 5w40 T6 Rotella. Motor holds operating temp better, oddly gets better mileage, and runs much smoother than when running 5w30. No leaks either.
As for spark plugs, I've found that whether or not the Copper plugs work better is case-by-case. My XJ's old 4.0 definitely prefers copper plugs gapped to .035, and it shows.
I just added some Rislone Zinc oil treatment in my 99' XJ Cherokee 4.0 I-6......runs good
Thanks for the upload Douglas.👍👍👌
I just converted mine to roller lifters and swapped the cam, problem solved. Electric cooling fan conversion, and did a high output distributor. Runs good too, had the head machined to run chevy LS valves, and upgraded the fuel system to also take e85. My 00 TJ Wrangler with the 2.5 is bored and stroked to 3.0L and has a twin scroll turbo and 2 stages of water meth injection. Been tinkering with these motors for years.
What kind of power are you getting out of the 2.5. I was heading in that direction with a TJ.
I've got over 350k on my 98 XJ and 200k+ on my 02 TJ. I run Rotella T5 1030 and I leak / burn almost no oil between changes.NGK copper plugs, LG oil filter. 4-5k between oil changes. Both are lifted , running 33s.
Great tips. Hopefully my 2001 4.0 hangs in there.
I’ve got an 89 Cherokee with the 4.0 litre, and sitting around 175,000 miles so far. I haven’t gotten to drive it much yet, because within a week of picking it up, tranny blew a hole. I did get unlucky too, and am stuck with the Peugeot. Swapping it out has proven problematic because apparently there’s parts missing with the hydraulic throw out bearing (I’m assuming prior owner never bothered to check anything). Mix in some vacuum leaks and needing a new intake, and she definitely shows her age. But damn I cannot wait to get her back on the road. Thanks for the advice about spark plugs and adding zinc in the oil. Hadn’t heard either of those before, so it’s good to keep in mind for the future.
I want to put Bosch platinum +fours in my 4.0. I could feel the difference in the power band, but it causes constant overheating. Switched back to the old school stuff.
Too true how on some of these old Iron blocks that Sludge and Rust can sometimes be the only thing preventing your motor from leaking oil.
I got the viper mod for my plugs and it is awesome
DA LINGO XD glad I found this channel just recently got a 93 4.0!
Commented the other day…. My 99XJ with 255,000 was getting 19.5mpg highway this summer. Fresh copper plugs, fresh oil, etc etc and she goes fine… 22psi oil at idle warm and right up over 40psi with a tap of the gas.
I get 10 mpg, I have 35s on stock gears tho, and a reman engine with 4k on it
@@benthebuilder6934 I have pretty much stock everything. New leafs and shocks. Tires are 235? I believe on stock steel wheels. 235s or whatever the largest ones you can do on stock setup. All gears are stock for a 99 sport… she’s doing great for an old gal… knock on wood! Now working on rockers and other body “spots”
My wife’s old 98 zj is now at 223k my dad owns it now but that thing still runs like new
I have an 04 Wrangler and had been running the Champion 7034. I switched to the Autolite APP985 I purchased from Amazon on the recommendation of a friend. Gapped at 35 and installed them. Ran like crap. Pulled them out and they were about a quarter inch shorter than the Champions. Maybe I got some chinesium crap from the seller and they weren't the true Autolites I needed. Either way I went back to the Champions and jeep runs like a champ. I change them every 25 to 30k.
Had a 97 TJ with a 4.0 and AX-15 - both lasted over 325k miles original, the frame died first. Was using Rotella T6 with no problems.
Thanks for such a straightforward video. I don’t know anything about engines but could follow along!
I’m looking at buying a 1975 wrangler with a “4L straight 6 engine 3 speed” (my son is almost 16 and is really good at/enjoys working on bike engines, so this would be the next step for him…)
Is that the same type of 4L engine that you have?
I’d like to steer him towards the best sites for info for when he will need to work on it