Sag on the DRZ400s After Race Tech F/R Spring Install (I weigh 215lbs)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- OK, another unscientific video for comparison to my prior one you can see here:
• Stock Sag on the Suzuk...
I finally got my bike back from the shop (long story involving crashes and COVID …). Anyway, the shop installed the Race Tech springs front and rear, and set the “race sag” on the rear for 4” @ 240-245lbs (that’s about what I weigh with all off-road gear on).
Specs for the springs:
Rear: 6.0kg/mm
Front: .52kg/mm
I believe that combo of spring weights serves up to about 270lbs with preload set properly. IIRC I fell roughly midway in the compatible spec. Race Tech has a good table to help you pick a spring weight. Best to look there! :-)
Note: I was not present to set the sag, but the shop’s owner goes roughly 240-ish, and they used his weight to set it. This is not an exact science, and on any given day I might not be wearing 25-30lbs of riding gear, or I might be wearing that gear and also have bags on. I figure I’ll be adjusting the sag at some point, and I have not even begun to dig into clicker settings.
PS: I NEVER ride as clothed there, though!! Haha.
PPS: I realize this angle is not the best, but I wanted to keep it about the same as the stock video.
![[Live] : ONE FIGHT NIGHT 24 วันนี้!! “จาร์เร็ด vs กุสตาโว”](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ENNA-fsT67c/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for videos on the suspension. Just purchased 21 drz s with 279 miles, bone stock. Getting it ready to ride. Just a touch taller and heavier than you. Wondering how it performs off road? By the way is that a different front fender? Thanks
Hey, I think it’s great off road, but I’m not very experienced, and I’m definitely the limiting factor. There are some videos of people riding DRZs very hard, so it’s possible and they are considered a classic. It’s definitely a bit heavy if you get jammed up, and it’s very tall once the right springs are on.
Here’s a vid of me and a bud riding gravel/dirt roads before I had the suspension done. It was pretty plush at that point. I might actually reduce my preload a bit at this point to get the bike a touch lower and I def need to experiment more with the clickers.
th-cam.com/video/hs6DRSyEVEs/w-d-xo.html
Yeah, the fender is an Acerbis for the RMZ450, IIRC. Direct fit, though the rear clearance is tight. Available off Procycle.
Too bad no before picture. I'm 200lbs and am considering this. Did you try to adjust stock preload prior to this?
Ahh, but there is. Check the description 🙂.
I didn’t bother. The stock springs are really only for someone weighing up to 170lbs or so with gear on (from what I’ve read). Basically Japanese teenagers is how I think of it.
I was able to get the preload set to recommended mm I forget now but I think it was 90ish. I adjusted the lock nut things about half inch down. What did you set your preload to?
@@keldonator I didn’t touch it with the stock spring. I would have had to take it to the maximum preload, and it still would not have been enough, and probably would have been worse than just riding around with my ass dragging, because the spring would be too compressed at maximum preload.
I had a shop install the springs. I gave them 245lbs as my weight, with gear (I actually weighed myself with gear on, including backpack with hydration bladder - hell, my Tech7s alone weigh 9lbs). They had someone there that was “close enough” and dialed it in with his weight, give or take.
Honestly, I’m not a motocross racer, and it’s not an exact science anyway. Sometimes I’ll ride in full offroad battle gear, sometimes like that or in adventure gear with some luggage, and other times in lighter street or adventure gear and without a hydration pack. My main goal was to at least have the proper spec spring in, with an appropriate middle-of-the-road preload set. I have a preload measuring tool, so I might play with it sometime, but honestly I’m now more interested in getting the clickers right for the average off-pavement conditions I’m likely to see.
I always remind myself that 80% of everybody just gets on their bike and rides, and I’m one of the weirdos that even tries to get in the ballpark - a little 😉. I sometimes wonder if I’ll do more harm than good!
I’m also coming back from a crash on my BMW (see the vid) so I can’t say much about it now, anyway. I won’t be riding off pavement in anger for a little while longer.
@@keldonator I realize I didn’t actually answer your question. I believe the shop was going for around 90-100mm. However, that is race sag. There is also static sag. As I understand it if you have your race sag set “correctly” and the static sag is too little, then the spring is not heavy enough (sounds weird, just just imagine you’ve cranked the crap out of the preload with your weight on, then you get off - the spring will want to return too much).
Anyway, I just went off of the published specs rather than measuring the sags with the stock spring, and from the stock specs, it was obvious I’d need a new spring. It’s also pretty obvious the rear end is drooping in the “before” video, and that’s with me in no gear at all.
@Mike Thomas how tall are you?
About 6’ tall.
How does it feel on the street with this spring is it better?
Yes, for sure.
@@mike.thomas awesome might get one for my supermoto
@@alexgroezinger762 👍 Keep in mind it’s front and rear.
@@mike.thomas ok thank you. I might do both for mine. I do like mostly street riding but recently added some 60/40 tires to go off road every once in a while. What stiffness do you recommend for my stile? Standard, soft, or Stiff?
@@alexgroezinger762 You buy springs for your riding weight. This lets you set sag properly so your bike is balanced properly and to make the most of your travel, and doesn’t have much to do with softness/stiffness. RaceTech (and the others,I assume) will have a table of rider weights to spring rates. Besides that there is the damping, and that’s where you choose how smoothly/quickly/slowly your compression and rebound works on your bike. Adjusting these for your needs is a bit of an art form, and I have not dabbled enough to give any guidance, but the owner’s manual does have a decent amount to say on dampening clicker settings, as do the internets.
You are sitting way to far back on your seat that's half your problem. If u gave it a half decent squirt you would be on one wheel every time
You’re right. But I’m kind of just sitting in the same place I did in my “stock” video, and that’s the important thing. I just wanted to show a difference here. Even as a relative newb, if I were riding off pavement, especially cornering, yep, I’d be scooted way up.
Doesn’t help that the stock ergos encourage sitting as such. The factory bar mounts are as far aft as Suzuki could place them in order to clear the instrument cluster with such a low-rise bar. After market bar-risers (or RMX triple clamps if you don’t mind losing the gauges) + rotating them forward over the steering stem axis yields a rider pocket with space further forward on the machine overall and is significantly more accommodating for standing while riding (MX-like).