Hi there, I just wanted to thank you for this video. I recently purchased two Hornby locos that were made in 1977. They were rusted and seized and I didn't think they would ever work. I have just disassembled and rebuilt one of them that has a Ringfield motor and it works as good as the day it was made.Your video gave me the knowledge and confidence to undertake a full repair. Thanks from Dunedin New Zealand.
Just successfully serviced my 225 thanks to your video. I’ve never done this before, I usually send my locos away for servicing, but after watching your guide twice through I thought I’d have a go myself. I kept stopping and starting it so as you didn’t get ahead of me. What was really good was that it was all mainly one shot with nothing missed, so thank you for this. My 225 is now running so much better. Thank you.
1st video I watched when I restarted with my model railway over a year ago after over 20 of it just being stood in the loft. So glad I found this video as I managed to restore 95‰ of my locos to their former glory. Very informative and useful ☺ 👍
Thank you for this video. It confirmed that I did everything correctly. I started maintenance on eight locomotives a couple of weeks ago and disassembled them before cleaning reassembling and testing them before refitting the body of each. Lighter fluid is very good at cleaning plastics and it evaporates without leaving a residue. Unlike other cleaning fluids. I also watched your video on the motorised turntable and I was lucky to pick up one that was filthy, clean it and it runs like a dream now. I’m not an enthusiast but I know someone who is planning to put his model railway together again and I’m the back-up mechanic… thanks again, Sam!
May I politely say to you be very careful with the lighter fluid . It is refined petrol . What I wish to convey to you is this ( in the 1960s I drained some petrol from my motorcycle tank not knowing what would happen next . The petrol went unto my plasik jug . Within 30 seconds there was all petrol over the floor . Petrol and some plastics do not mix . As plastic is made from petrol oil base product. ) the jug bottom melted and seemed to curl up. And destroy itself leaving the petrol on the floor. So if you going to use lighter fluid on plastic beware . If your train wheels are made of nylon well be careful or different plastic. Be careful . I use metherlated spirit personal . My point being if you in the house . You do not want petrol on the carpet. Or any flash points . Electrical or otherwise . Cigarette lighter one spark to get you cig lighter going int flame. So be careful of petrol melting train wheels . Plastic . I hope this is helpful advice to you . Yours faithfully ken.
Thx Sam my dad died December 2019 and was a train fanatic I’m a newbie I bought my fave train from my childhood an intercity 125 br blue that my dad had. It has real problems and needed servicing which he passed before he could teach me. Now following your guide I’ve taken it a paste cleaned and a serviced it and runs like new. Thank you so much
Just wanted to say thank you very much for your help! I bought a second-hand HST class 47 for my son's birthday. When I test-ran it it was howling and also the gears appeared to be slipping. Having watched your excellent video I was able to strip the motor down, lubricate and clean it. I also discovered that the small pinion cog was slipping. All sorted now with some loctite. Running quiet and at good speed - and with three days to go before his birthday! Hooray. Thanks!
Hi Lee, no problem at all mate - glad you found this useful! Well done with the service - you did very well to do that spot on first time! Yeah absolutely - a blob of loctite does the job perfectly! Thanks again, Sam :)
Until today, I had never taken a Ringfield loco apart. My second hand Hornby Southern Schools class 926 Repton is tender Ringfield motor driven. It had been running half speed and making a horrendous screeching noise. I have spent the last few hours following your instructions and it is now running as smoothly as the day it was made. This is a very helpful video and I followed it pretty much to the letter. I notice that your railway in parts, runs over carpet (mine is fixed onto boards), I suspect that with carpet running you must need to service your locos more often. Thanks for this video!
Greetings from Sri Lanka. I have Hornby Locomotives which I had bought nearly 30 years ago when I worked overseas. Now I am back in Sri Lanka and building my layout. I did find the Hornby locos running poorly was thinking of replacing then. Your video helped me to service the 3 pole ring field motor and now the locos runs very smoothly on DCC. Thank you very much.
Hi there, thanks so much for the comment - really great to hear that your locos are running well again - very good news! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thanks Sam, I’ve just bought a none running Duchess of Sutherland and after following your guide now have a smooth running great addition to my layout, really appreciated 👍
I've been having problems with my old Ringfield-motor Class 37, so I used this video to help me take it apart. In the end, it turned out not to be a problem with the motor itself (instead, one of the driving axles had seized up), but I still disassembled and cleaned the motor while I had the chance. Couldn't have done any harm, because it's running well again now! Thanks a lot for the help :D .
I’ve been watching what I guess are reruns of ‘Hornby: a model world’. Thanks to you and others on there’s enthusiasm. You’ve got me back into hornby trains. Had one when I was a kid and swapped it for scalextric set my friend had. Instantly regretted it. Clearly it’s been at the back of my mind ever since. So just bought some intercity 125’s of my youth and hoping to get them running again. What you’re doing is great, keep it up!
Sam, Just pulled an old Hornby class 22 baby warship out of the box and had a load of cogs left in the bottom. Just found your video, followed it step by step and have put it all back together with no issues, you LEGEND. Thank you for taking the time and trouble to do these videos.
That's fantastic to hear Mick - and well done for getting it all back together - nasty fiddly things if you've not done it before! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Greetings from Salvador, Bahia, Brazil, Sam! After 21 years without touching my Brazilian, American and British HO/OO scale locomotives, days ago I started to test them to see if they were working. Most were OK, but some OO scale British locomotives equipped with the Ringfield engine were not. After watching your tutorial, I disassembled and cleaned the engine of a Hornby Class 86 and it started up again, very smoothly. Will do the same with the other locos. Thanks a lot for your tips. I intend to start the hobby again and build a small layout with my wife - we are both retired and have plenty of time for that.😊🚂
Hi sam I've just watched the Ringfield motor service video You are very knowledgeable and your presentation skills are brilliant I've just followed your advice and managed to get a fleet of all the early Thomas and friends tender driven locos running as new Thank you very much for you time in producing this and other videos
I have a Lima motor on an N scale shunter I have had for over 17 years. I was not certain how to proceed. The little diesel did not run at all. After watching your very helpful video I did the maintenance on my motor, which was very similar, and now it runs as if it was new . Thank you so much for all the tips!
Hey Hans that's great to hear - I've never seen one of their N scale models, but it's good that the mechanism was similar! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
nice video. I'm watching these cos i've a old Mallard that needs attention. My brother was obsessed with Hornby when we were kids. So nostalgic watching the inner workings of locomotives. Thanks
I've been listening to my class 47 sounding like a bag of nails for a while, then watched this tonight. Easy to follow, springs were a bit of a pain but got there and it runs and sounds so much better now, Thanks very much for your video. Cheers
Thanks Sam, they are the prising out type like you had in your video. Two locos that come to mind are R533 Schools Class, St .Lawrence and R298 GWR 4-4-0 County Class 'County of Hereford . Regards John Oz.
Hi Sam... Great channel :-) After many years I've been inspired to dig out my old trains from storage, and get them up and running again. I've decided to go DCC and was looking into converting my two old locos. This video has been a fantastic guide to getting them clean first before I fit decoders. However I now need a load of spares - one cracked power bogie chassis, missing rushe and springs, and worn drive tyres... I've watched your DCC conversion video too, so bring it on!
Thanks very much Patrick - really glad this was useful for you! Keep an eye on Ebay, not just for spares but for complete damaged engines going cheap - they're worth their wait in gold for spares most of the time! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks for this video, i just got into the hobby with a second hand HST 125, to find the power car wheels were slipping, took the unit apart to find one of the cogs had fallen away, gave me the confidence to open the power car up in the first place!
Thank you for the video. It gave me the confidence to open up the tender on my Top Link Flying Scotsman I bought online. I had a squealing motor and I found that the little gear on the armature axle, the one that drives the two large plastic gears, was not pushed on all the way. It would only make occasional contact with the two large gears and make the squealing sound. Once I pushed it on and it snapped into place, everything worked perfectly.
Very useful guide indeed Sam. I use white vinegar or surgical spirit to clean with. IIrc nail varnish remover(and indeed nail varnish itself) has a very low flash-point, hence "fumy" and as an asthma sufferer I have to avoid such liquids. I decant both vinegar and s/spirit into two miniature jam jars which make to easier to use cotton buds stems with. Thanks for a great educational -didn't realise the black cog wheels would re-distribute oil onto the wheels below!.
Hello again Sam, the ringfield motor I had in mind is the earlier one , does not have the screws that hold the retainers that hold the springs and brushes in place do not know how to get to the armature, they have the weights with the screws through them, I think they could be late 1970, early 1980s. Thank you for all your help, John Oz.
+Wilso 1947 Hi John, thanks for bringing this up - it was a note that I was going to add to the description! With these it's actually easier, you just gently bend the metal plates upwards until you can get the springs out. Afterwards, you just bend them back into place! Cheers, Sam
I have just started in Model Railways, and got few things second hand just as a starter to get the feel of it before going into more expensive stuff. One is an older (about 1975) Class 47 with the old Silver Seal style Ringfield, with the caps over the brushes instead of the metal strips. The other I have is a Class 43 HST that has the newer Ringfield like you have in this video, but has pickups on all wheels, on both driven and non-driven bogies. I really like the Ringfields. They seem to have a unique sound, which seems to work with the diesels, and when lubed up they run quite smoothly. One thing I have noticed, too much oil is a real killer with these. Even "one drop" if it is a larger drop can be too much and get into the commutator because of how open the motors are. They still run quite warm if driven at high speed though. When I give it a run naked (no gears) I tend to just throw a 9V battery across the motor to let it run. I don't like free running it at higher voltages,
Couple of bits to further a more thorough service.1: removing the axles and cleaning through the axle bearings with some electrolube. 2: changing the main gear for a brass one, over time the aluminum gear starts slipping from the armature. 3: using a fibreglass pen to clean the copper contact surface for a reliable connection from the commutators. Used to repair model locomotives professionally. 👍 Looking forward to seeing more videos
Hi Craig - thanks very much for the comment, all very good ideas! The reason I didn't recommend removing the axles is that it can be difficult to get them off safely, and even more so to get them back on correctly - I thought maybe people would struggle with it - so this was just the essentials! Thanks very much though - very useful tips for a more thorough service! All the best, Sam :)
Hello, I am trying to maintain a Hornby County of Norfolk class 47 which has a ringfield motor and the contact on the bogie with the pickup became disconnected inside! Can you please tell me where the wire goes? Thanks! Love your vids!
Ok, I have another problem, it’s a bit hard to explain but I will try to tell you in as much detail as possible. So, the other wire came out (all I know is that it’s from the motor to some other place on the motor) and I don’t know where it goes to! Any help please?
Brilliant video - I initially had trouble removing the chassis from the motor housing, had to get a screwdriver in and pry the clip back (little more force than I was comfortable with - but it worked and didn't snap anything). Have an childhood InteCity 125 and a ScotRail Duke of Edinburgh Awards 47716 - thought both we're destined to death after heavy use in the 80's (running really bad, screeching noise, totally unusable) - Followed this video thorough and both are running like new! Absolutely brilliant! Thanks Note: had to make sure the wheels didn't press together too tightly when re assembling back into the motor housing as it was straining the motor (and making a noise) - Once I sorted that, perfect!.
Hi Kevin, that's good to hear - yes sometimes they do need a lot of force, and it feels very dodgy doing it! Really glad you got those sorted, thanks for the comment! Sam :)
My Dad has just sent me my 125 intercity from 30 odd years ago. I’m keen to try this, as I know it’ll be very messy inside indeed. I managed to fix the other two trains, but the intercity was shorting out with lights flashing briefly. So I hope this works. Thanks for sharing! Atb. Edit to add-it’s fixed! Very happy indeed!
As usual very informative Sam. Not wanting to teach the teacher, but could I say, for a really good cleaning fluid I can thoroughly recommend using Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaner - Contact Cleaner & Lubricant. This is fantastic stuff as it can be used for cleaning the gears, and it won't destroy plastics. It's not cheap, but a can lasts for years. Best wishes, Anton down in Cornwall.
Hi Sam - greetings from Downunder - have serviced an old...over 30 years boxed...125 that I couldn't get going on my new layout with the help of your video and one by 00Bill. By itself it is flying around my layout now...until I add the single coach and dummy power car that constituted the set when purchased, when it can barely move. I've even taken the weight from the dummy power car and added it in the power car. There doesn't seem to be much drag from the coach and dummy power car, and the same sluggishness happens when I just add a freight wagon. Just wondering if you have any thoughts/suggestions? Regards, and thanks for all the great videos.
Brilliant, clear and easy video to follow. Just a couple of questions.... Should the silver gear/cog be stuck in place? What product was you using to live the gears at the end? Many thanks
Thanks a lot mate, glad you liked it! Yes, if the silver gear isn't fixed to the axle properly, it may slip, preventing the loco from running. If yours is loose, remove the gear, clean the gear and shaft with IPA, dry everything and apply a tiny amount of superglue to the inside of the gear, and ram it back onto the shaft! Be very careful not to glue up the bearing. Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Gday Sam. Great video and inspired me to do my 4 ringfields. (3 old Class 43 HSTs and a Class 110 DMU) I went the extra step and pulled the wheels off and found that the axles were fairly dirty and since this is where the power transfers from the wheels to the motor body,it has really improved the running. Previous owners though that it would be a good idea to lubricate the axles but this is the worst thing that you can do. I also gave the commutators a good clean with a fine abrasive as well as solvent (it won't hurt them at all). I use an electrical contact cleaner from CRC. It is designed for electric motors and does an excellent job.
+Bears Trains Hi, thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful! It's always a good idea to get the wheels out if you can, I've bent a few in my time which is why I don't do it unless it's necessary! But if you've managed to do it okay then that's fantastic (you're better than I am hehe!) Cheers, Sam :)
+Sam'sTrains I found the trick is to use a very thin screwdriver and put it it in from the bottom on the non geared side as close to the axle as possible. Then twist it gently and lever them apart. The axle will pull out of the insulated geared wheel. The amount of crud I have found on the axle and inside the brass bush made me wonder how the train ran at all in the first place. For the axle and the commutator, I use a fine grade foam sanding block ( I guess these would be available all over the world, I'm in Australia) and then a squirt of the contact cleaner through the brass axle holder. When done, both surfaces will be spotless and very shiny. The axle doesn't need any lubrication as it is chromed steel on brass which has very low friction. Another thing to watch is when pressing the wheels back together. Too much and the wheels will drag on the chassis, too little and the wheels can move sideways which will misalign the gears and throw out the width of the wheels to the track. About 1/2 a mm of sideways movement seems perfect.
Literally just followed your video step by step, and kept pausing and cleaned the motor out on my class 43, its the type where the wheels keep the plate on and you have to reach in down the side of it to clean the commutator, goid video, i didnt know how to clean the commutator before i watched this 👍 i saw the two unlocking tabs near the top, but didn't want to force it too much
@@SamsTrains yeah its a really good video, i couldnt get right inside the motor to clean it, because i didnt want to break the axles apart/remove the wheels to take that plate completely off, so i just struggled as best i could, and cleaned what i could reach with lighter fuel and cotton buds, now, i did notice, lighter fuel breaks down the bond between the cotton swap and the plastic stick its on, so you have to be careful, or at least i have, not to trap the swab inside something you cant get tweezers in to fish it out, also, you know the smoke generators, how would you mount them? I have seen plenty of videos of how to wire them up, just not how you actually fit them in place under the funnels/exhausts of the loco's 🤔 maybe inspiration to do a video about that? 😁 Keep up the good work 👍 very informative, im literally starting my layout from scratch, i had it all set up in the garage 25 years ago, and im moving it into the loft, and going from dc to dcc in one massive leap, wish me luck 👍
Thanks for this video. After watching I've dug my boy HST 125 out from the draw and serviced the motor and wheels. It was very juddery when running, and was very slow, while watching your video I noticed your motor doesn't have the resistor mine has, so after cleaning and reassembling, I removed the resistor and bang it goes a lot quicker. The service helped the slow running too. Thanks for the tips. 😀
Hi Jonathan, that's good to hear - the device you found was probably a capacitor - used for TV suppression - when those get old, their resitance can drop, meaning that they draw a lot of current - removing it sounds like a good idea! Glad you got yours running okay in the end! :D Happy New Year, Sam :)
Hi Sam, thanks for the video, I'm just getting into model rail and have gleaned so much from this tutorial. I can now go ahead with some maintenance on my second hand loco's with some expert knowledge. Cheers mate.
Very much enjoyed the video and promptly pulled apart one of my 125’s for a cleaning. Did have a question, my motor does not have screws holding the springs and brushes in place. I can’t find any way to remove the clips not sure if you have any suggestions or if I just pry the case apart anyhow and hope the springs and brushes stay in place?
haha thanks David! If it doesn't have the screws, you should be able to bend the metal flaps upwards, to reveal the springs! The front of the motor should then un-clip - though sometimes the wheels need to be removed to do this! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hmm...I was thinking I could bend them up, but if the motor is regularly cleaned that it may cause problems and eventually cause the clips to snap. But, if there is no other way around it, gotta be done!
an excellent video which is very helpful. My old class 25 has noticable play on the wheels with the gears not meshing together reliably. any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks so much Nick - you should be able to press the wheels together on the axle using a vice - go very gently, and a tiny bit at a time! Merry Christmas - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains spot on Sam! I did exactly as you said and all is now well with my little “rat” and its running well. Just needs a run in. Thanks again and Merry Christmas to you.. 👌
Hello again Sam. I have for a few years been inundated with requests to do a servicing video on the Ringfield motor...something I always intended to do but never quite got around to doing!! Anyway, having now seen your effort in doing them I don't think I'll bother now....in future I'll just point everybody to your video. All the best mate, me.
Hi Sam cleaning the 125 went great I managed to clean the commutator easily once I prized it apart the only problem I had was I lost a spring but I can imagine a lot of people do the same thing anyway thanks for the advice and there's know dought I will be asking for your help once I start maintaining the rest of the loco's. Thanks again ant.
+anthony hall hi, that's great news about the 125, and yeah - I've certainly lost a few springs on the carpet in my time - they are quite inexpsnsive on eBay though, so should you ever lose one perms antsy, it's not the end of the world! Glad to have helped, you're very welcome! Cheers, Sam :)
I got a King Class from the 80's on eBay for dirt cheap about two months ago. It didn't work initially, but after a service based on this video, it ran just fine. However, I recently tried running it, and it grinds to a halt on even the slightest incline or with any load. I took the body off of the tender, and the entire mechanism seems to be working fine. The drive wheels are still moving, but for some reason it's extremely weak. The only problem I noticed when taking it apart again was that the magnet was a bit weak, but I'm not entirely sure how that would affect performance. I have also replaced the traction tires, but that did not help.
Ahh very nice - sounds like a good little project! The magnet could be to blame, also check the connection between loco and tender - 80% of the problems with these are caused by a faulty connection! Make sure the loco axles are clean too, and unoiled, they're essential for the good connection! The tyres may have perished - cleaning old tyres with IPA can cause them to harden and lose their grip - replacement tyres are available I think! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I tested it again since I posted this, and it works perfectly. I guess it was just having a bad day. I can't really complain, since I have paid more for locos that have never worked for me. Now I just have to try to get my old Battle of Britain class to work. Anyway, I am looking forward to the Christmas special today.
Hi Sam. Your video gave me the confidence to tackle my first service on a hornby intercity 125. (I'm very new to the hobby). As you suggested, I had to remove the wheels to access the motor. The unit is a secondhand model that I picked up on ebay. It was pretty dirty to say the least. Everything went smoothly. tested motor before I reassembled and It was going grand. Problem came after I refitted into the chassis. There were a couple more wires than yours, but I'm confident they were refitted correctly. The issue I#m having is there is no power getting through to the motor. She's dead as a dodo. Any pointers or tips would be gratefully received. Best wishes Sam. Thanks mate. Dave
Hi Dave - glad you were able to service it okay - it sounds as though there's nothing major wrong! What you need to find out is which rail is not getting connected! These work by collecting power from one rail on the motor bogey, and the other rail is connected to the other, un-powered bogey! Do you have a multi-meter? By using a cheap one, with a continuity testing function, you can test where the problem is! It may be worth checking the connection between the un-powered bogey and it's wire - that often connects badly. If in doubt, you can solder the wire directly to the 'chassis' of that bogey! All the best, and good luck, Sam :)
Fantastic video, just what I needed, having taken some models off my mate's hands that appear to have this exact motor, that aren't working (yet). i would like to ask, what is the lubricant you are using, and do you have a link to the applicator for it? I'm hopeful that once I get an idea of what that is, I'll be using this video to help me through the same process and get the models up and running again! One is the Hornby 'Mammoth', the other is an Inter City 125 unit. Not seen light of day for maybe 30 years!
Great vid Sam. I have a loco with tender, cant seem to get power to the tender or loco, think the tender picks up from one side of the lovo,, any ideas what would stop the tender running. The track is live, there isnt any tyres on the tender
My sons got a 1977 hornby 125 hst and the ringfield motor needs a good clean but I'm not sure how to take the bushes out do I prise it apart like your video of the 225? I'm new to maintaining my sons locomotives so I'm abit unsure.i found your video of cleaning the 225 ringfield motor so helpful and the end results were amazing a would appreciate it if you could give me some advice on the 125 ringfield. Thanks
+anthony hall Thanks very much for your comment - it should work exactly the same as in my other video, and you should be able to prize them apart. You just have to make sure that the wheels aren't going to be in the way of you doing so - if they are, you might have to remove them which is a bit risky! Otherwise, you may be able to clean the commutator through the gap. If the brushes are held in with the metal strips, you can simply bend them upwards to expose the brushes and springs! :) Let me know how you get on :) Cheers, Sam
I have a Black Brincess that won't run at all. I've opened it up and cleaned the motor out. The worm gear and drive gear are very clean as well. I have tested the mechanics and all the wheels move freely, and the pickups have contact with the wheels. The wiring looks a bit sketchy, but I am no expert at all with this thing. I would much appreciate any help related to how the pickups are wired to the motor (mines an x04) Thanks slot Sam, you are the best.
Hi mate - so that's a tri-ang princess?? If you're having issues with her, feel free to send her to me for repair - I offer that as a service now, and a princess should be no problem! Just drop me an email to samstrains@outlook.com if you're interested! :D All the best, Sam :)
Great video, very useful. I'm a little surprised you didn't recommend taking the commutator tight out to check for debris in the chamber, as that can also get bits caught and cause problems - just a thought really!
Awesome video, I couldn't have even begun to service my BR Intercity without it. I am having issues sourcing parts such as the (fiddly) brass clip (which was lost by previous owner presumably) and the gear that fits directly onto the motor shaft. I bought a replacement motor gear but it was too tight and wouldnt fit so I tried to enlarge the hole in it but it now it is too loose (typical) and it now spins on the motor shaft. Any idea where I can source these parts at all? I have the R3271 BR Intercity 125. Any help would be great.
Hey Bazz, I think they're designed to be an incredibly tight fit, it's just finding a way to force it onto there, which is very tricky! Ebay as where I've always got mine, though maybe you could fix the issue by superglueing the gear onto the shaft, being careful not to glue up the bearing! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Haha yeah it was an extremely tight fit but I got the clip in their eventually. And I have glued the gear on and that all seems to be working fine so thanks very much for all your help 👍
Hi Sam- long time watcher, first time commenter, so I just want to start off by saying thankyou for all the excellent work you do! I was wondering- in this video you use lighter fluid for cleaning, but in other videos you use IPA: is this a case of different applications requiring different solutions, or more broadly a change you've made over the years? Will I need to get both, or is there something else you'd recommend instead? Many thanks, Chris
just found your site, out of all the different types of motors, I like these the best, as they are easier to clean and maintain, I normally get a big cup, fill with water and a bit of washing up liquid, 9v batt, 30 secs in water, then a quick dry using a hair drier , then light oil, job done, I do it to me RC motors for planes, been doing it for years, never had any probs
Just watched your video and had a go at servicing my old Hornby R350/Mallard.I was a bit wary as it has been DCC hardwired and seemed slightly different to the one you serviced.I could not see how to release the motor from the chassis ,as I wanted to change the tyres.Nevertheless what I cleaned improved my running.Thanks John
Hi John - that's very good to hear, glad you were able to improve it! Some of them do vary, but the design was pretty much unchanged over the years! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam replayed your video while i done a strip down and she runs like new thanks do you have any advice on worm drive motors as i run triangs Hymecks jintys etc aswell cheers jim
Great Sam. Could you do one on removing , same ringfield motor out of the tender drive steam locos. Do not know how to get this particular motor out of the chassis. Regards John Oz.
+Wilso 1947 Thanks John, I'll do my best to help you out! Which loco did you have in mind? There's actually quite a few different ones. The easiest are where the motor is held in place by two large weights either side of it (screwed down from above) If you undo them, the motor should be free. Others, perhaps larger locos like the A4 are clipped in place (much like that diesel in the video) With these, it's a case of prising it out with a screwdriver again - making sure you lever it from the right end! Let me know anyway, Cheers, Sam
Just followed this guide for an old blue & grey HST that I purchased from ebay. Had real running problems before on both DC and DCC (I converted it). After this it ran very well indeed. I never got to take the commutator out as the wheels were in the way, but beyond that all was the same. Just got to get the lighting conversion working properly - too dim!
That's very good to hear - glad she's all sorted for you - it's a pain to knock the wheels out to access the commutator, so if it works okay without doing, then that's even better! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam, I have already watched this presentation (& it's brilliant), but I have a somewhat unrelated question. I'm replacing the wiring on a couple of locos - one steam; one diesel. Is it better to use stranded or solid wire for the replacement, & what guage of wire should I buy ? Finally, is there a brand of wire that holds up better than others, & if so, what do you recommend. Thank you, Andrew :)
Thanks very much Andrew! I'd say stranded works best for the added flexibility. Realistically they only need to pass max 0.5A, so you don't need much thickness! I'm not certain about good brands, but don't go for the cheap stuff - radio spares is a good place to look! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam, expecting a class 43 in a bad shape. First thing for me is to get the Ringfield motor serviced. The crocodile clips, what did you plug them into to get the power? Thanks
Hi Sam. I have just been watching your video on how to service a Ringfield motor which is what i have just done to a couple of my locos. However I was trying to replace the tiny spur cog wheel but without success as it goes so far on to the shaft then will go no further, Are there different cog wheels or are they all the same. Please help as I am now baffled. I have spoke to you before a couple times and find you very helpful.Thank you. Ray Marsh
Yeah they are all the same, and they should be a friction fit. Over time they do become loose. You can fix this by applying a tiny amount of superglue to the inside of the gear and easing it carefully onto the shaft so that it meshes with the remaining gears - it's a bit of a bodge, but it works perfectly, provided you don't glue up the bearing! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam for that. I tried for nearly an hour yesterday trying to fit one and damaged 4 in the process, as I said it went on so far then would not go any further. If I can find the original then I will do as you suggested and use some superglue to secure it. Thanks again for your prompt reply.
Generally I just clean everything thoroughly, and apply a tiny drop of superglue to the gear with a needle, and then carefully push it back into place - it's a dangerous process, but it hasn't failed me yet. Just be sure to keep the other gears out the way while you do it, and don't glue up the bearings! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi mate, thanks for the comment! Yes there is - you can just use wires with bare ends - maybe even the ones you use from the controller? If not, speaker wire or any wire will work just fine - just touch them onto the contacts, or wrap them around gently if you can! If Otherwise, check ebay - you can get a set of crocodile clips for much less than £10 - just make sure you don't buy ones without wires/leads! All the best, Sam :)
Great video Sam - I have just rediscovered an 1990/91 Intercity 125 with swallow livery and am unable to get it working. I carried out a service as per the video and still unable to get any life. What are your main tips I could try in the short term and what pieces of essential kit would you recommend to test/clean tracks and power supplies etc?
Thanks a lot Glen - sorry to hear that! Do you have a multimeter? Test the resistance between adjacent plates of the commutator - if any show values of greater than 0.1Ohm difference to eachother, then you may have a faulty armature! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Total electrical novice when it comes to this sort of thing - I thought I did well taking the motor apart! I'll see if I can borrow a multimeter, is there a guide to show me how to do this - unsure if the motor has to be sitting on powered track to test it?
OK - got hold of a multimeter, tested the AB points from the power supply and all checked out. Checked the readings from the motor and all seemed to be ok. So tested the tracks and the readings dropped, I then popped into a local model railway shop and took the unit with me - he kindly tested it on track and it ran so I walked away with a peco rail cleaner have rubbed all he tracks and the unit is moving fine - with a service motor to boot!
Hi Sam! Recently started out with this hobby and have been thoroughly enjoying your videos! I've been refurbishing two non-runner locos from around the 70s-80s.... a lima class 55 deltic and a hornby class 47. Got both running reasonably well, but the class 47 is comparatively very slow, and the class 55's motor rattles slightly (the axle holding the coils in place is rather loose).... wonder if you know how to tackle these issues?
That's fantastic to hear Callum, well done with your refurbishments - the slow running could indicate a weak magnet or faulty coils - worth checking for both! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Thank you for your advice!!!!! Since I don't really know, how would I test the strength of the magnet in comparison to the other locos I have?
A few years back I sent a bunch of my early 2000's Hornby stuff away during a bunch of moving confusion, including a Class 86 that lost all of its power and struggled to move under its own power (I think the issue may be in the gearing?) before we sent it over and I never got around to taking a look at it, this stuff is coming home very so I was curious if this video would apply to the Hornby class 86, and if you might know what my best course of action might be (I have 0 experience with this sort of thing since i'm in the USA and the models here are crazy complex and i'm too afraid to mess with those) Many thanks!
Hi there! I believe your class 86 should have the same mechanism as this - if it's a vintage Hornby one - a thorough clean is often enough to sort out problems like that! :) Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I took it apart and found the motor intact, but absolutely manky, so I think that might have been the issue, after a deep clean I tested it and it runs! a bit bumpy in areas, but that might just be due to the fact it hasn't moved in almost 4 years, so many thanks for this video as it really helped me out!
Hi Sam, followed your Hornby Ringfield Motor service video and my question is, how do I remove the magnet from the motor so as to re-magnetise it? Thanks in advance.
Hi Roger! I find that you can't really remagnetise these anyway - they're just too large to fit into most remagnetisers and be affected properly by it! If you really want to try, you'll need to tap off the gear, and remove the armature.... that should leave you free to lever out the magnet, which sometimes were glued in place! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks very much - I hope it was useful for you! Ah yeah - the gears do sometimes get a bit worn down :( Good luck with your restorations anyway! All the best, Sam :)
This is a brilliant video, I followed along with my tender motor in front of me. You make it super simple to follow (I managed to fire one of the springs onto my brown carpet😵 luckily we managed to find it) Thanks for the video👍
Thanks so much Daniel - that's brilliant - hope you managed to get it working properly again! Good job finding the spring again, lol! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Watched a couple of your vids, like your enthusiasm, I have some thoughts/ideas. Service motors inside a plastic freezer bag if you're dealing with tiny springs. The motor you used looks easier to handle than the 9f/Silver Seal era type that I have with caps on the brush springs. If you need to wipe new oil off, then you are putting too much on, this bike rider thinks. One drop on each row of gears will get to all the right places soon enough. CD motors? How about building up a 2nd driving bogie then run in series at 2 x 6v? May work for Bo-Bo's but not for tender loco's. Put some baseboards up, that loft room is ideal for a wall hugger, just cut the tall shelf units short add 50 per cent running distance and no more carpet fibres!
Hi Chris, thanks very much for the comment and the tips - yeah the freezer bags are a very good idea! I'd love to use baseboards too, but sadly I'm unable to make any permenant changes to the room I'm in at the moment - but maybe some day! All the best, Sam :)
Hey Sam, I am a new subscriber and new to the model trains hobby. I have an original model Intercity 125 rather than the 40th anniversary one and it makes the loudest screech whenever it moves, always needs double power to move on the track. Thinking of following this amazing tutorial to fix it up however where you have the copper panels and screws on my motor there is silver metal instead which must be folded out of the way, and there is a bracket that keeps the panel on so I can't get to the commutator. Wondering if you know a way I could do this and also a good lubricator to use. Thanks in advance your videos are very useful.
Hi mate, Yes there are a few variations - if it doesn't have screws, you'll need to just bend the brush retainers out the way. Sometimes the wheels mean that you can't remove the front plate either - if that's the case, you may need to carefully knock them off their axles, and pull them out- it's not a very nice job though, so only attempt if you're confident! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hey Sam, thanks for the video, going to attempt my dad's 225. I have an ancient Hornby 125 R317-070 on the motor. The pickups that are held down by screws here appear to be riveted to the plastic and I'll actually have to bend them out to get to the springs. Does this sound right? Thanks.
Which oil did you use? For lubricating the motor I have recently got my train stuff from storage and alot of my diesel trains are not working and i think they need cleaning/lubricating.
Hello again Sam . Have checked my Hornby locos there are a number of different ringfield motors starting with the silver seal up to the last china made ones . Would at some stage could you please do a video identifying what number motor they are. Regards John OZ.
+Wilso 1947 Hi John, as you may have seen, I don't actually have very many diesel locos (being more of a steam lover) so I only have a very select few ringfield motors to choose from. Sorry I can't be of more help, I assume that most of them operate on the same principles though, despite their differences. Let me know if I can be any more help :) Cheers, Sam
Hi Sam. I have a Hornby BR 4-6-2 Class A3 Loco "St. Frusquin" which has a Ringfield motor in the tender. The loco died on me by simply slowing down to a halt. I cleaned the motor as per your video but it still won't move the wheels. The motor drives the gears ok but nothing is reaching the wheels. It may be a connectivity problem that I can't see. Do you carry out repairs at all? I would normally take the loco to my local model shop as the proprietor has someone to do servicing and repairs, but because of lockdown this can't happen. I would be so grateful for your response. Thanks, Pete.
It sounds like the main driving gear could be slipping - you need to gently pull it off, clean with IPA, and use superglue to stick it back on once dry - use a tiny amount of glue, applied with a needle, and make sure the bearing doesn't get glued up! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Hi Sam, have deleted my former reply. The small main driving gear in the middle is indeed slipping. The loco wants to move but the little demon in the middle says no! Lol. Am a little apprehensive about using superglue though. Might purchase a solid brass gear. I used some Isopropanol to clean the shaft that the gear rests on, and the gear itself. It kept slipping though. Will persevere however, I'll get there in the end! Best, Pete.
Hi again Sam. I tried putting some insulating tape around the spindle that the gear spur sits on then put the gear spur on next. It didn't quite work so I took the tape off. However, the tape may have left some sticky residue because when I replaced the gear spur again, it didn't come loose when I tested the loco. The loco has now done a few circuits of a test track and no loosening of the gear spur. Good news. It may, however, pay to put some blue tack (yes, you heard right!) on the spindle for extra adhesion. I don't think that it would pose the risk that superglue might. Thoughts? Best, Pete.
Hi Owen, yes you can - and in fact, I do use it these days - I think it's less obnoxious than lighter fluid. The best ways are to use a fibre pen, or use a dremmel and wire wheel to polish them... the latter is much more abrasive though, and you shouldn't use it on anything fragile/flimsy! All the best, Sam :)
Used this to clean up a slightly newer version of the Class 91 motor that didn't run. It works again, though the grey centre cog keeps slipping forward off the rest of the gears. Quite noisy now.
Great to hear that Paul - might need to glue that gear on - try removing it, cleaning the shaft and gear with IPA, and apply a tiny amount of superglue to the inside of the gear, then force it back onto the shaft. Be very careful not to glue up the bearings! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam, following this for my first ever service, never done it before... My motor, however, appears to be soldered to the wires, you cant take them off and take the motor away from the body :(. It's going to make it very hard to do what you are doing...
You mean the front plate of the motor has the wires soldered directly to it? In that case, yes that will make things difficult - do you have a soldering iron?! lol! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Haha after all this time ive been following you on youtube i can see you on facebook so i liked you pages so bloody awesome m8. Cheers from John in Australia.
Hi Dave, it's still relatively easy to service - though you will need to knock the wheels out if you want to access the armature. If it's not something you've done before, I'd recommend not doing that, and just cleaning the armature best you can through the gaps. If you decide to try, bend the pick-up holders up, remove the springs and brushes first, remove all the plastic gears, and then knock the geared wheel off the axle very carefully. Then, the front plate should be free to unclip. To re-attach the wheels, use a vice, and press them back on, making sure you don't go too tight - about 1mm of 'play' is what you want! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thanks for the reply Sam. Most of mine are steam locos that have the ringfield motors 70s 3 diesels class 47s. The next 2 decades 80s and 90s all steam, Duchess, schools 9f , football class only 2 diesels 25 & 29, went to Bachmann for diesels then. Regards John Oz.
+Wilso 1947 Okay fair enough - well if you let me know what you want to know, I can do my best to find out for you. If necessary, I can give you my email address and you can mail me photos if it might help you? :) Cheers, Sam
Hello Sam, Thank you for all your videos, every single one is a gem and you're a treasure of information. Could I ask you a question, as you are definitely a guru. Hornby class 43 HST 125 the older ones with Ringfield Motors. Is it possible to get the diecast motor assy to allow you to put a cd motor in the dummy cars to make them all powered as in real life? Can buy a complete train for £27 pair Power and Dummy. But the motor bogie assy is a lot higher for some reason. Can a 3d printer print one or have you found them available at reasonable prices? Thanks Keep up the good work Michael
Just seen this video. Can you tell me whether locos that have traction tyres always have them on the drive wheels. I have one tyre that has perished but can't tell which loco or wheel it has come from. Cheers.
Hi John, the Hornby ringfield motors always have the tyres on the driven side (gear side). If you look closely at the wheels, you should see a ridge where the tyres go! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi I didn't know this video existed until today, but my Class 91 has been a non runner for around 22 years, now she works again. I did pretty much everything you said in this video too lol. I have a question. I have a class 43 HST, and the motor turns and works fine for a while, then the silver cog tends to jump out of it's place, or the motor turns but the cogs don't. Do you know what could be up with it?
Hi mate, thanks very much for the comment - really glad you were able to fix an old loco - it's a great feeling getting them up and running again! Yeah, the problem there is that the main brass/metal gear is slipping on the armature - you can fix this by buying a replacement gear (for the Hornby ringfield motor on Ebay), or by carefully super-gluing the gear on - though be careful not to glue the mechanism up! (I normally take the glue option) Best of luck, Sam :)
Thanks for the reply. Does that mean gluing the bar which runs through the middle of the motor and connects to the gears, onto the silver cog? And which glue would you use?
Okay mate, yeah that's what I'd recommend! Just bare in mind that the lima J50 has a very different mechanism to this - it may not be possible to fit the CD motor, at least not in the same way. Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi there, I just wanted to thank you for this video. I recently purchased two Hornby locos that were made in 1977. They were rusted and seized and I didn't think they would ever work. I have just disassembled and rebuilt one of them that has a Ringfield motor and it works as good as the day it was made.Your video gave me the knowledge and confidence to undertake a full repair. Thanks from Dunedin New Zealand.
Hi mate, that's fantastic news, really glad this was helpful, and that you could get your locos running again!
All the best,
Sam :)
Just successfully serviced my 225 thanks to your video. I’ve never done this before, I usually send my locos away for servicing, but after watching your guide twice through I thought I’d have a go myself. I kept stopping and starting it so as you didn’t get ahead of me. What was really good was that it was all mainly one shot with nothing missed, so thank you for this. My 225 is now running so much better. Thank you.
1st video I watched when I restarted with my model railway over a year ago after over 20 of it just being stood in the loft. So glad I found this video as I managed to restore 95‰ of my locos to their former glory. Very informative and useful ☺ 👍
Thank you for this video.
It confirmed that I did everything correctly. I started maintenance on eight locomotives a couple of weeks ago and disassembled them before cleaning reassembling and testing them before refitting the body of each.
Lighter fluid is very good at cleaning plastics and it evaporates without leaving a residue. Unlike other cleaning fluids.
I also watched your video on the motorised turntable and I was lucky to pick up one that was filthy, clean it and it runs like a dream now.
I’m not an enthusiast but I know someone who is planning to put his model railway together again and I’m the back-up mechanic… thanks again, Sam!
May I politely say to you be very careful with the lighter fluid . It is refined petrol . What I wish to convey to you is this ( in the 1960s I drained some petrol from my motorcycle tank not knowing what would happen next . The petrol went unto my plasik jug . Within 30 seconds there was all petrol over the floor . Petrol and some plastics do not mix . As plastic is made from petrol oil base product. ) the jug bottom melted and seemed to curl up. And destroy itself leaving the petrol on the floor. So if you going to use lighter fluid on plastic beware . If your train wheels are made of nylon well be careful or different plastic. Be careful . I use metherlated spirit personal . My point being if you in the house . You do not want petrol on the carpet. Or any flash points . Electrical or otherwise . Cigarette lighter one spark to get you cig lighter going int flame. So be careful of petrol melting train wheels . Plastic . I hope this is helpful advice to you . Yours faithfully ken.
So helpful for us non experts! My 8 year old is extremely happy now I've fixed his 125. Thanks!
Thx Sam my dad died December 2019 and was a train fanatic I’m a newbie I bought my fave train from my childhood an intercity 125 br blue that my dad had. It has real problems and needed servicing which he passed before he could teach me. Now following your guide I’ve taken it a paste cleaned and a serviced it and runs like new. Thank you so much
So sorry to hear about your Dad Carl, that's lovely to hear though - well done with that! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Just wanted to say thank you very much for your help! I bought a second-hand HST class 47 for my son's birthday. When I test-ran it it was howling and also the gears appeared to be slipping. Having watched your excellent video I was able to strip the motor down, lubricate and clean it. I also discovered that the small pinion cog was slipping. All sorted now with some loctite. Running quiet and at good speed - and with three days to go before his birthday! Hooray. Thanks!
Hi Lee, no problem at all mate - glad you found this useful! Well done with the service - you did very well to do that spot on first time! Yeah absolutely - a blob of loctite does the job perfectly!
Thanks again,
Sam :)
Until today, I had never taken a Ringfield loco apart. My second hand Hornby Southern Schools class 926 Repton is tender Ringfield motor driven. It had been running half speed and making a horrendous screeching noise. I have spent the last few hours following your instructions and it is now running as smoothly as the day it was made. This is a very helpful video and I followed it pretty much to the letter. I notice that your railway in parts, runs over carpet (mine is fixed onto boards), I suspect that with carpet running you must need to service your locos more often. Thanks for this video!
Greetings from Sri Lanka. I have Hornby Locomotives which I had bought nearly 30 years ago when I worked overseas. Now I am back in Sri Lanka and building my layout. I did find the Hornby locos running poorly was thinking of replacing then. Your video helped me to service the 3 pole ring field motor and now the locos runs very smoothly on DCC. Thank you very much.
Hi there, thanks so much for the comment - really great to hear that your locos are running well again - very good news! :D
Thanks for watching,
Sam :)
using this tutorial I just ripped out my old class 47's motor and fixed it into my tender driven black 5. so useful mate. thanks
Awesome! Glad I was able to help - thanks for watching and commenting!
Cheers,
Sam :)
Thanks Sam, I’ve just bought a none running Duchess of Sutherland and after following your guide now have a smooth running great addition to my layout, really appreciated 👍
Great to hear that Neil, enjoy her mate! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I've been having problems with my old Ringfield-motor Class 37, so I used this video to help me take it apart. In the end, it turned out not to be a problem with the motor itself (instead, one of the driving axles had seized up), but I still disassembled and cleaned the motor while I had the chance. Couldn't have done any harm, because it's running well again now!
Thanks a lot for the help :D .
Glad to hear you were able to sort it - definitely doesn't hurt to fully overhaul a motor - they'll run much better!
Merry Christmas - Sam :)
I’ve been watching what I guess are reruns of ‘Hornby: a model world’.
Thanks to you and others on there’s enthusiasm. You’ve got me back into hornby trains.
Had one when I was a kid and swapped it for scalextric set my friend had. Instantly regretted it. Clearly it’s been at the back of my mind ever since.
So just bought some intercity 125’s of my youth and hoping to get them running again. What you’re doing is great, keep it up!
Sam, Just pulled an old Hornby class 22 baby warship out of the box and had a load of cogs left in the bottom. Just found your video, followed it step by step and have put it all back together with no issues, you LEGEND. Thank you for taking the time and trouble to do these videos.
That's fantastic to hear Mick - and well done for getting it all back together - nasty fiddly things if you've not done it before! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Recently purchased a hornby class 86 locomotive with the ringfield motor, after having followed this, the loco works amazingly, thanks.
Great to hear that - very well done!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Greetings from Salvador, Bahia, Brazil, Sam! After 21 years without touching my Brazilian, American and British HO/OO scale locomotives, days ago I started to test them to see if they were working. Most were OK, but some OO scale British locomotives equipped with the Ringfield engine were not. After watching your tutorial, I disassembled and cleaned the engine of a Hornby Class 86 and it started up again, very smoothly. Will do the same with the other locos. Thanks a lot for your tips. I intend to start the hobby again and build a small layout with my wife - we are both retired and have plenty of time for that.😊🚂
Hi sam I've just watched the Ringfield motor service video
You are very knowledgeable and your presentation skills are brilliant
I've just followed your advice and managed to get a fleet of all the early Thomas and friends tender driven locos running as new
Thank you very much for you time in producing this and other videos
Thanks so much Brian, that's very kind of you to say - great to hear you managed to get those working well again! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have a Lima motor on an N scale shunter I have had for over 17 years. I was not certain how to proceed. The little diesel did not run at all. After watching your very helpful video I did the maintenance on my motor, which was very similar, and now it runs as if it was new . Thank you so much for all the tips!
Hey Hans that's great to hear - I've never seen one of their N scale models, but it's good that the mechanism was similar!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Excellent video . Just a thought I've used methylated spirit for cleaning wheels and motors etc and it works well
nice video. I'm watching these cos i've a old Mallard that needs attention. My brother was obsessed with Hornby when we were kids. So nostalgic watching the inner workings of locomotives. Thanks
Thanks for making this video will help me trying to get my grandfather’s trains running again
I've been listening to my class 47 sounding like a bag of nails for a while, then watched this tonight. Easy to follow, springs were a bit of a pain but got there and it runs and sounds so much better now, Thanks very much for your video. Cheers
Fantastic to hear that Richard - yes the springs are a pain, but glad you were able to sort things out! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam, they are the prising out type like you had in your video. Two locos that come to mind are R533 Schools Class, St .Lawrence and R298 GWR 4-4-0 County Class 'County of Hereford . Regards John Oz.
Hi Sam... Great channel :-) After many years I've been inspired to dig out my old trains from storage, and get them up and running again. I've decided to go DCC and was looking into converting my two old locos. This video has been a fantastic guide to getting them clean first before I fit decoders. However I now need a load of spares - one cracked power bogie chassis, missing rushe and springs, and worn drive tyres...
I've watched your DCC conversion video too, so bring it on!
Thanks very much Patrick - really glad this was useful for you! Keep an eye on Ebay, not just for spares but for complete damaged engines going cheap - they're worth their wait in gold for spares most of the time!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks for this video, i just got into the hobby with a second hand HST 125, to find the power car wheels were slipping, took the unit apart to find one of the cogs had fallen away, gave me the confidence to open the power car up in the first place!
No problem Keith, glad it was handy for you mate - good luck with your locos! :D
Thanks for watching,
Sam :)
That's about one of the best how to videos , good clear close up shots in easy steps .
Cheers.....Peter.
+Peter Shaw Thanks very much Peter, glad you thought it was alright! I'd tried to be as explicit as possible!
Cheers,
Sam
Thank you for the video. It gave me the confidence to open up the tender on my Top Link Flying Scotsman I bought online. I had a squealing motor and I found that the little gear on the armature axle, the one that drives the two large plastic gears, was not pushed on all the way. It would only make occasional contact with the two large gears and make the squealing sound. Once I pushed it on and it snapped into place, everything worked perfectly.
No problem at all mate - glad you were able to sort that out - sounds like a job well done there!
All the best,
Sam :)
You do the best tutorial videos. Seriously, keep it up Sam.
+atari67 Thank you very much for your comment - it's much appreciated :)
Cheers,
Sam
Very useful guide indeed Sam. I use white vinegar or surgical spirit to clean with. IIrc nail varnish remover(and indeed nail varnish itself) has a very low flash-point, hence "fumy" and as an asthma sufferer I have to avoid such liquids. I decant both vinegar and s/spirit into two miniature jam jars which make to easier to use cotton buds stems with. Thanks for a great educational -didn't realise the black cog wheels would re-distribute oil onto the wheels below!.
Hello again Sam, the ringfield motor I had in mind is the earlier one , does not have the screws that hold the retainers that hold the springs and brushes in place do not know how to get to the armature, they have the weights with the screws through them, I think they could be late 1970, early 1980s. Thank you for all your help, John Oz.
+Wilso 1947 Hi John, thanks for bringing this up - it was a note that I was going to add to the description! With these it's actually easier, you just gently bend the metal plates upwards until you can get the springs out. Afterwards, you just bend them back into place!
Cheers,
Sam
I have just started in Model Railways, and got few things second hand just as a starter to get the feel of it before going into more expensive stuff. One is an older (about 1975) Class 47 with the old Silver Seal style Ringfield, with the caps over the brushes instead of the metal strips. The other I have is a Class 43 HST that has the newer Ringfield like you have in this video, but has pickups on all wheels, on both driven and non-driven bogies. I really like the Ringfields. They seem to have a unique sound, which seems to work with the diesels, and when lubed up they run quite smoothly. One thing I have noticed, too much oil is a real killer with these. Even "one drop" if it is a larger drop can be too much and get into the commutator because of how open the motors are. They still run quite warm if driven at high speed though.
When I give it a run naked (no gears) I tend to just throw a 9V battery across the motor to let it run. I don't like free running it at higher voltages,
Thanks for sharing Brendan - yes the ringfields are good motors, and the early silver ones are greaat runners too usuall!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Couple of bits to further a more thorough service.1: removing the axles and cleaning through the axle bearings with some electrolube.
2: changing the main gear for a brass one, over time the aluminum gear starts slipping from the armature.
3: using a fibreglass pen to clean the copper contact surface for a reliable connection from the commutators.
Used to repair model locomotives professionally. 👍
Looking forward to seeing more videos
Hi Craig - thanks very much for the comment, all very good ideas! The reason I didn't recommend removing the axles is that it can be difficult to get them off safely, and even more so to get them back on correctly - I thought maybe people would struggle with it - so this was just the essentials!
Thanks very much though - very useful tips for a more thorough service!
All the best,
Sam :)
Hello, I am trying to maintain a Hornby County of Norfolk class 47 which has a ringfield motor and the contact on the bogie with the pickup became disconnected inside! Can you please tell me where the wire goes? Thanks! Love your vids!
Hey! If it's an older one, the wire should just connect to the other bogie chassis, as it's live to the other rail!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks! It’s working now!
Ok, I have another problem, it’s a bit hard to explain but I will try to tell you in as much detail as possible.
So, the other wire came out (all I know is that it’s from the motor to some other place on the motor) and I don’t know where it goes to! Any help please?
Brilliant video - I initially had trouble removing the chassis from the motor housing, had to get a screwdriver in and pry the clip back (little more force than I was comfortable with - but it worked and didn't snap anything). Have an childhood InteCity 125 and a ScotRail Duke of Edinburgh Awards 47716 - thought both we're destined to death after heavy use in the 80's (running really bad, screeching noise, totally unusable) - Followed this video thorough and both are running like new! Absolutely brilliant! Thanks Note: had to make sure the wheels didn't press together too tightly when re assembling back into the motor housing as it was straining the motor (and making a noise) - Once I sorted that, perfect!.
Hi Kevin, that's good to hear - yes sometimes they do need a lot of force, and it feels very dodgy doing it! Really glad you got those sorted, thanks for the comment!
Sam :)
My Dad has just sent me my 125 intercity from 30 odd years ago. I’m keen to try this, as I know it’ll be very messy inside indeed. I managed to fix the other two trains, but the intercity was shorting out with lights flashing briefly. So I hope this works. Thanks for sharing! Atb. Edit to add-it’s fixed! Very happy indeed!
Awhh that's lovely - hope you can fix it mate - good luck! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
And awesome - great work - how was it? :D
As usual very informative Sam. Not wanting to teach the teacher, but could I say, for a really good cleaning fluid I can thoroughly recommend using Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaner - Contact Cleaner & Lubricant. This is fantastic stuff as it can be used for cleaning the gears, and it won't destroy plastics. It's not cheap, but a can lasts for years. Best wishes, Anton down in Cornwall.
That sounds great Ant, thanks I'll try that! These days I use IPA!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam - greetings from Downunder - have serviced an old...over 30 years boxed...125 that I couldn't get going on my new layout with the help of your video and one by 00Bill. By itself it is flying around my layout now...until I add the single coach and dummy power car that constituted the set when purchased, when it can barely move. I've even taken the weight from the dummy power car and added it in the power car. There doesn't seem to be much drag from the coach and dummy power car, and the same sluggishness happens when I just add a freight wagon. Just wondering if you have any thoughts/suggestions? Regards, and thanks for all the great videos.
Brilliant, clear and easy video to follow. Just a couple of questions....
Should the silver gear/cog be stuck in place?
What product was you using to live the gears at the end?
Many thanks
Thanks a lot mate, glad you liked it!
Yes, if the silver gear isn't fixed to the axle properly, it may slip, preventing the loco from running. If yours is loose, remove the gear, clean the gear and shaft with IPA, dry everything and apply a tiny amount of superglue to the inside of the gear, and ram it back onto the shaft! Be very careful not to glue up the bearing.
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains on that note its recommended the silver cog is replaced with brass one
Hi Sam, very informative video. Got all mine to do after they have been stored for a number of years.
Thanks very much Tony - good luck with it mate! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Gday Sam. Great video and inspired me to do my 4 ringfields. (3 old Class 43 HSTs and a Class 110 DMU) I went the extra step and pulled the wheels off and found that the axles were fairly dirty and since this is where the power transfers from the wheels to the motor body,it has really improved the running. Previous owners though that it would be a good idea to lubricate the axles but this is the worst thing that you can do. I also gave the commutators a good clean with a fine abrasive as well as solvent (it won't hurt them at all). I use an electrical contact cleaner from CRC. It is designed for electric motors and does an excellent job.
+Bears Trains Hi, thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful! It's always a good idea to get the wheels out if you can, I've bent a few in my time which is why I don't do it unless it's necessary! But if you've managed to do it okay then that's fantastic (you're better than I am hehe!)
Cheers,
Sam :)
+Sam'sTrains I found the trick is to use a very thin screwdriver and put it it in from the bottom on the non geared side as close to the axle as possible. Then twist it gently and lever them apart. The axle will pull out of the insulated geared wheel. The amount of crud I have found on the axle and inside the brass bush made me wonder how the train ran at all in the first place. For the axle and the commutator, I use a fine grade foam sanding block ( I guess these would be available all over the world, I'm in Australia) and then a squirt of the contact cleaner through the brass axle holder. When done, both surfaces will be spotless and very shiny. The axle doesn't need any lubrication as it is chromed steel on brass which has very low friction. Another thing to watch is when pressing the wheels back together. Too much and the wheels will drag on the chassis, too little and the wheels can move sideways which will misalign the gears and throw out the width of the wheels to the track. About 1/2 a mm of sideways movement seems perfect.
Literally just followed your video step by step, and kept pausing and cleaned the motor out on my class 43, its the type where the wheels keep the plate on and you have to reach in down the side of it to clean the commutator, goid video, i didnt know how to clean the commutator before i watched this 👍 i saw the two unlocking tabs near the top, but didn't want to force it too much
Hi Russell, glad to hear this video was helpful! Yes those tabs can be a bit of a pain!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains yeah its a really good video, i couldnt get right inside the motor to clean it, because i didnt want to break the axles apart/remove the wheels to take that plate completely off, so i just struggled as best i could, and cleaned what i could reach with lighter fuel and cotton buds, now, i did notice, lighter fuel breaks down the bond between the cotton swap and the plastic stick its on, so you have to be careful, or at least i have, not to trap the swab inside something you cant get tweezers in to fish it out, also, you know the smoke generators, how would you mount them? I have seen plenty of videos of how to wire them up, just not how you actually fit them in place under the funnels/exhausts of the loco's 🤔 maybe inspiration to do a video about that? 😁 Keep up the good work 👍 very informative, im literally starting my layout from scratch, i had it all set up in the garage 25 years ago, and im moving it into the loft, and going from dc to dcc in one massive leap, wish me luck 👍
Thanks for this video. After watching I've dug my boy HST 125 out from the draw and serviced the motor and wheels. It was very juddery when running, and was very slow, while watching your video I noticed your motor doesn't have the resistor mine has, so after cleaning and reassembling, I removed the resistor and bang it goes a lot quicker. The service helped the slow running too. Thanks for the tips. 😀
Hi Jonathan, that's good to hear - the device you found was probably a capacitor - used for TV suppression - when those get old, their resitance can drop, meaning that they draw a lot of current - removing it sounds like a good idea!
Glad you got yours running okay in the end! :D
Happy New Year,
Sam :)
Sam'sTrains Happy New year to you and yours, and again thanks for the vid 😀
Hi Sam, thanks for the video, I'm just getting into model rail and have gleaned so much from this tutorial. I can now go ahead with some maintenance on my second hand loco's with some expert knowledge. Cheers mate.
Hi Steve, thanks for the lovely comment - really glad this video was useful for you - good luck with the servicing! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
That was a very informative video I really appreciated it thanks from all of us who take care of our trains.
Much appreciate Louis - really glad you found it handy!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very much enjoyed the video and promptly pulled apart one of my 125’s for a cleaning. Did have a question, my motor does not have screws holding the springs and brushes in place. I can’t find any way to remove the clips not sure if you have any suggestions or if I just pry the case apart anyhow and hope the springs and brushes stay in place?
haha thanks David! If it doesn't have the screws, you should be able to bend the metal flaps upwards, to reveal the springs! The front of the motor should then un-clip - though sometimes the wheels need to be removed to do this!
Thanks for watching,
Sam :)
Hmm...I was thinking I could bend them up, but if the motor is regularly cleaned that it may cause problems and eventually cause the clips to snap. But, if there is no other way around it, gotta be done!
an excellent video which is very helpful. My old class 25 has noticable play on the wheels with the gears not meshing together reliably. any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks so much Nick - you should be able to press the wheels together on the axle using a vice - go very gently, and a tiny bit at a time!
Merry Christmas - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains spot on Sam! I did exactly as you said and all is now well with my little “rat” and its running well. Just needs a run in. Thanks again and Merry Christmas to you.. 👌
Hello again Sam. I have for a few years been inundated with requests to do a servicing video on the Ringfield motor...something I always intended to do but never quite got around to doing!! Anyway, having now seen your effort in doing them I don't think I'll bother now....in future I'll just point everybody to your video. All the best mate, me.
+chambs123 Thanks very much mate, Its always very much appreciated when you point people my way - thanks for the kind words,
Cheers,
Sam
Hi Sam cleaning the 125 went great I managed to clean the commutator easily once I prized it apart the only problem I had was I lost a spring but I can imagine a lot of people do the same thing anyway thanks for the advice and there's know dought I will be asking for your help once I start maintaining the rest of the loco's.
Thanks again ant.
+anthony hall hi, that's great news about the 125, and yeah - I've certainly lost a few springs on the carpet in my time - they are quite inexpsnsive on eBay though, so should you ever lose one perms antsy, it's not the end of the world!
Glad to have helped, you're very welcome!
Cheers,
Sam :)
I got a King Class from the 80's on eBay for dirt cheap about two months ago. It didn't work initially, but after a service based on this video, it ran just fine. However, I recently tried running it, and it grinds to a halt on even the slightest incline or with any load. I took the body off of the tender, and the entire mechanism seems to be working fine. The drive wheels are still moving, but for some reason it's extremely weak. The only problem I noticed when taking it apart again was that the magnet was a bit weak, but I'm not entirely sure how that would affect performance. I have also replaced the traction tires, but that did not help.
Ahh very nice - sounds like a good little project! The magnet could be to blame, also check the connection between loco and tender - 80% of the problems with these are caused by a faulty connection! Make sure the loco axles are clean too, and unoiled, they're essential for the good connection! The tyres may have perished - cleaning old tyres with IPA can cause them to harden and lose their grip - replacement tyres are available I think!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I tested it again since I posted this, and it works perfectly. I guess it was just having a bad day. I can't really complain, since I have paid more for locos that have never worked for me. Now I just have to try to get my old Battle of Britain class to work. Anyway, I am looking forward to the Christmas special today.
Hi Sam. Your video gave me the confidence to tackle my first service on a hornby intercity 125. (I'm very new to the hobby). As you suggested, I had to remove the wheels to access the motor. The unit is a secondhand model that I picked up on ebay. It was pretty dirty to say the least. Everything went smoothly. tested motor before I reassembled and It was going grand. Problem came after I refitted into the chassis. There were a couple more wires than yours, but I'm confident they were refitted correctly. The issue I#m having is there is no power getting through to the motor. She's dead as a dodo. Any pointers or tips would be gratefully received. Best wishes Sam. Thanks mate. Dave
Hi Dave - glad you were able to service it okay - it sounds as though there's nothing major wrong!
What you need to find out is which rail is not getting connected! These work by collecting power from one rail on the motor bogey, and the other rail is connected to the other, un-powered bogey! Do you have a multi-meter? By using a cheap one, with a continuity testing function, you can test where the problem is!
It may be worth checking the connection between the un-powered bogey and it's wire - that often connects badly. If in doubt, you can solder the wire directly to the 'chassis' of that bogey!
All the best, and good luck,
Sam :)
I'd put the front bogies in arse about face Sam. It's going hell for leather now mate. Thank you for sorting me out!!! Brilliant!!
Fantastic video, just what I needed, having taken some models off my mate's hands that appear to have this exact motor, that aren't working (yet). i would like to ask, what is the lubricant you are using, and do you have a link to the applicator for it? I'm hopeful that once I get an idea of what that is, I'll be using this video to help me through the same process and get the models up and running again! One is the Hornby 'Mammoth', the other is an Inter City 125 unit. Not seen light of day for maybe 30 years!
use gaugemaster oil,
Hi Sam. Could you use Isopropanol as a cleaning agent instead of lighter fluid? Thanks, Pete.
Yes you can Pete - I do use IPA myself these days! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great vid Sam. I have a loco with tender, cant seem to get power to the tender or loco, think the tender picks up from one side of the lovo,, any ideas what would stop the tender running.
The track is live, there isnt any tyres on the tender
Yeah! That's a common issue - check the loco axles, if they're filthy, they won't conduct!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
My sons got a 1977 hornby 125 hst and the ringfield motor needs a good clean but I'm not sure how to take the bushes out do I prise it apart like your video of the 225? I'm new to maintaining my sons locomotives so I'm abit unsure.i found your video of cleaning the 225 ringfield motor so helpful and the end results were amazing a would appreciate it if you could give me some advice on the 125 ringfield. Thanks
+anthony hall Thanks very much for your comment - it should work exactly the same as in my other video, and you should be able to prize them apart. You just have to make sure that the wheels aren't going to be in the way of you doing so - if they are, you might have to remove them which is a bit risky! Otherwise, you may be able to clean the commutator through the gap. If the brushes are held in with the metal strips, you can simply bend them upwards to expose the brushes and springs! :)
Let me know how you get on :)
Cheers,
Sam
I have a Black Brincess that won't run at all. I've opened it up and cleaned the motor out. The worm gear and drive gear are very clean as well. I have tested the mechanics and all the wheels move freely, and the pickups have contact with the wheels. The wiring looks a bit sketchy, but I am no expert at all with this thing. I would much appreciate any help related to how the pickups are wired to the motor (mines an x04) Thanks slot Sam, you are the best.
Hi mate - so that's a tri-ang princess??
If you're having issues with her, feel free to send her to me for repair - I offer that as a service now, and a princess should be no problem! Just drop me an email to samstrains@outlook.com if you're interested! :D
All the best,
Sam :)
Great video, very useful. I'm a little surprised you didn't recommend taking the commutator tight out to check for debris in the chamber, as that can also get bits caught and cause problems - just a thought really!
Awesome video, I couldn't have even begun to service my BR Intercity without it. I am having issues sourcing parts such as the (fiddly) brass clip (which was lost by previous owner presumably) and the gear that fits directly onto the motor shaft. I bought a replacement motor gear but it was too tight and wouldnt fit so I tried to enlarge the hole in it but it now it is too loose (typical) and it now spins on the motor shaft. Any idea where I can source these parts at all? I have the R3271 BR Intercity 125. Any help would be great.
Hey Bazz, I think they're designed to be an incredibly tight fit, it's just finding a way to force it onto there, which is very tricky! Ebay as where I've always got mine, though maybe you could fix the issue by superglueing the gear onto the shaft, being careful not to glue up the bearing!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Haha yeah it was an extremely tight fit but I got the clip in their eventually. And I have glued the gear on and that all seems to be working fine so thanks very much for all your help 👍
barry, try peters spares mate or lendons
Hi Sam- long time watcher, first time commenter, so I just want to start off by saying thankyou for all the excellent work you do!
I was wondering- in this video you use lighter fluid for cleaning, but in other videos you use IPA: is this a case of different applications requiring different solutions, or more broadly a change you've made over the years? Will I need to get both, or is there something else you'd recommend instead?
Many thanks,
Chris
just found your site, out of all the different types of motors, I like these the best, as they are easier to clean and maintain, I normally get a big cup, fill with water and a bit of washing up liquid, 9v batt, 30 secs in water, then a quick dry using a hair drier , then light oil, job done, I do it to me RC motors for planes, been doing it for years, never had any probs
Thanks a lot for sharing - that's true, from a maintenance point of view, these are very good!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains forgot to add, i do strip it down as well
Just watched your video and had a go at servicing my old Hornby R350/Mallard.I was a bit wary as it has been DCC hardwired and seemed slightly different to the one you serviced.I could not see how to release the motor from the chassis ,as I wanted to change the tyres.Nevertheless what I cleaned improved my running.Thanks John
Hi John - that's very good to hear, glad you were able to improve it! Some of them do vary, but the design was pretty much unchanged over the years!
Thanks for watching,
Sam :)
Hi Sam replayed your video while i done a strip down and she runs like new thanks do you have any advice on worm drive motors as i run triangs Hymecks jintys etc aswell cheers jim
Great Sam. Could you do one on removing , same ringfield motor out of the tender drive steam locos. Do not know how to get this particular motor out of the chassis. Regards John Oz.
+Wilso 1947 Thanks John, I'll do my best to help you out! Which loco did you have in mind? There's actually quite a few different ones. The easiest are where the motor is held in place by two large weights either side of it (screwed down from above) If you undo them, the motor should be free. Others, perhaps larger locos like the A4 are clipped in place (much like that diesel in the video) With these, it's a case of prising it out with a screwdriver again - making sure you lever it from the right end!
Let me know anyway,
Cheers,
Sam
Just followed this guide for an old blue & grey HST that I purchased from ebay. Had real running problems before on both DC and DCC (I converted it). After this it ran very well indeed. I never got to take the commutator out as the wheels were in the way, but beyond that all was the same. Just got to get the lighting conversion working properly - too dim!
That's very good to hear - glad she's all sorted for you - it's a pain to knock the wheels out to access the commutator, so if it works okay without doing, then that's even better!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam, I have already watched this presentation (& it's brilliant), but I have a somewhat unrelated question. I'm replacing the wiring on a couple of locos - one steam; one diesel. Is it better to use stranded or solid wire for the replacement, & what guage of wire should I buy ? Finally, is there a brand of wire that holds up better than others, & if so, what do you recommend. Thank you,
Andrew :)
Thanks very much Andrew! I'd say stranded works best for the added flexibility. Realistically they only need to pass max 0.5A, so you don't need much thickness! I'm not certain about good brands, but don't go for the cheap stuff - radio spares is a good place to look! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thank you, Sam, I'll try a radio spares store :D
Hi Sam, expecting a class 43 in a bad shape. First thing for me is to get the Ringfield motor serviced. The crocodile clips, what did you plug them into to get the power? Thanks
Ooh good luck mate - they were just hooked up to my bench power supply, but a train controller will work too! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
A well made video, I'll be replacing the brushes and servicing my Class 47 with confidence very shortly.
Hi Sam. I have just been watching your video on how to service a Ringfield motor which is what i have just done to a couple of my locos. However I was trying to replace the tiny spur cog wheel but without success as it goes so far on to the shaft then will go no further, Are there different cog wheels or are they all the same. Please help as I am now baffled. I have spoke to you before a couple times and find you very helpful.Thank you. Ray Marsh
Yeah they are all the same, and they should be a friction fit. Over time they do become loose. You can fix this by applying a tiny amount of superglue to the inside of the gear and easing it carefully onto the shaft so that it meshes with the remaining gears - it's a bit of a bodge, but it works perfectly, provided you don't glue up the bearing!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam for that. I tried for nearly an hour yesterday trying to fit one and damaged 4 in the process, as I said it went on so far then would not go any further. If I can find the original then I will do as you suggested and use some superglue to secure it. Thanks again for your prompt reply.
Love it but ones I have purchased recently have that central cog working its way loose? How do I keep that on and in its correct position?
Generally I just clean everything thoroughly, and apply a tiny drop of superglue to the gear with a needle, and then carefully push it back into place - it's a dangerous process, but it hasn't failed me yet. Just be sure to keep the other gears out the way while you do it, and don't glue up the bearings!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
This is very useful info as I own that exact same type of motor in my HST, but I don't own any crocodile clips, is there any alternative?
Hi mate, thanks for the comment! Yes there is - you can just use wires with bare ends - maybe even the ones you use from the controller? If not, speaker wire or any wire will work just fine - just touch them onto the contacts, or wrap them around gently if you can! If Otherwise, check ebay - you can get a set of crocodile clips for much less than £10 - just make sure you don't buy ones without wires/leads!
All the best,
Sam :)
Great video Sam - I have just rediscovered an 1990/91 Intercity 125 with swallow livery and am unable to get it working. I carried out a service as per the video and still unable to get any life. What are your main tips I could try in the short term and what pieces of essential kit would you recommend to test/clean tracks and power supplies etc?
Thanks a lot Glen - sorry to hear that! Do you have a multimeter? Test the resistance between adjacent plates of the commutator - if any show values of greater than 0.1Ohm difference to eachother, then you may have a faulty armature!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Total electrical novice when it comes to this sort of thing - I thought I did well taking the motor apart! I'll see if I can borrow a multimeter, is there a guide to show me how to do this - unsure if the motor has to be sitting on powered track to test it?
OK - got hold of a multimeter, tested the AB points from the power supply and all checked out. Checked the readings from the motor and all seemed to be ok. So tested the tracks and the readings dropped, I then popped into a local model railway shop and took the unit with me - he kindly tested it on track and it ran so I walked away with a peco rail cleaner have rubbed all he tracks and the unit is moving fine - with a service motor to boot!
Hi Sam! Recently started out with this hobby and have been thoroughly enjoying your videos! I've been refurbishing two non-runner locos from around the 70s-80s.... a lima class 55 deltic and a hornby class 47. Got both running reasonably well, but the class 47 is comparatively very slow, and the class 55's motor rattles slightly (the axle holding the coils in place is rather loose).... wonder if you know how to tackle these issues?
That's fantastic to hear Callum, well done with your refurbishments - the slow running could indicate a weak magnet or faulty coils - worth checking for both!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Thank you for your advice!!!!! Since I don't really know, how would I test the strength of the magnet in comparison to the other locos I have?
A few years back I sent a bunch of my early 2000's Hornby stuff away during a bunch of moving confusion, including a Class 86 that lost all of its power and struggled to move under its own power (I think the issue may be in the gearing?) before we sent it over and I never got around to taking a look at it, this stuff is coming home very so I was curious if this video would apply to the Hornby class 86, and if you might know what my best course of action might be (I have 0 experience with this sort of thing since i'm in the USA and the models here are crazy complex and i'm too afraid to mess with those)
Many thanks!
Hi there! I believe your class 86 should have the same mechanism as this - if it's a vintage Hornby one - a thorough clean is often enough to sort out problems like that! :)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I took it apart and found the motor intact, but absolutely manky, so I think that might have been the issue, after a deep clean I tested it and it runs! a bit bumpy in areas, but that might just be due to the fact it hasn't moved in almost 4 years, so many thanks for this video as it really helped me out!
Excellent video Sam, clear and to the point - many thanks.
Thanks so much Paul! :D
Hi Sam, followed your Hornby Ringfield Motor service video and my question is, how do I remove the magnet from the motor so as to re-magnetise it? Thanks in advance.
Hi Roger! I find that you can't really remagnetise these anyway - they're just too large to fit into most remagnetisers and be affected properly by it! If you really want to try, you'll need to tap off the gear, and remove the armature.... that should leave you free to lever out the magnet, which sometimes were glued in place!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Brilliant video mate finally getting my railway back to working order just found out need new gears on one errr
Thanks very much - I hope it was useful for you! Ah yeah - the gears do sometimes get a bit worn down :(
Good luck with your restorations anyway!
All the best,
Sam :)
This is a brilliant video, I followed along with my tender motor in front of me. You make it super simple to follow (I managed to fire one of the springs onto my brown carpet😵 luckily we managed to find it) Thanks for the video👍
Thanks so much Daniel - that's brilliant - hope you managed to get it working properly again! Good job finding the spring again, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains hello, sadly not. Having traction issues with wheels
Thank you. The used Flying Scotman I bought for my son is now running. Gears a little worse for wear but now it runs.
Great to hear that Alex - well done for sorting it out! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Thank you
I have lost one of the little black bits that goes on the springs, any advice?
Hi Sam , are you still doing repairs . I have a Hornby class 75 that needs the wiring sorting out ,hope you can help Regards David
Great Sam very handy video I’m about to service one of these can you use ordinary oil?
Thanks mate! You want to use very light machine oil - and preferably not the self-cleaning kind such as wd40!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks sam
Great clip Sam. Helpful info for this Novice.
Cheers Kim in Oz.😎
Cheers Kim - good luck!! :D
Watched a couple of your vids, like your enthusiasm, I have some thoughts/ideas. Service motors inside a plastic freezer bag if you're dealing with tiny springs. The motor you used looks easier to handle than the 9f/Silver Seal era type that I have with caps on the brush springs. If you need to wipe new oil off, then you are putting too much on, this bike rider thinks. One drop on each row of gears will get to all the right places soon enough. CD motors? How about building up a 2nd driving bogie then run in series at 2 x 6v? May work for Bo-Bo's but not for tender loco's. Put some baseboards up, that loft room is ideal for a wall hugger, just cut the tall shelf units short add 50 per cent running distance and no more carpet fibres!
Hi Chris, thanks very much for the comment and the tips - yeah the freezer bags are a very good idea!
I'd love to use baseboards too, but sadly I'm unable to make any permenant changes to the room I'm in at the moment - but maybe some day!
All the best,
Sam :)
Hey Sam, I am a new subscriber and new to the model trains hobby. I have an original model Intercity 125 rather than the 40th anniversary one and it makes the loudest screech whenever it moves, always needs double power to move on the track. Thinking of following this amazing tutorial to fix it up however where you have the copper panels and screws on my motor there is silver metal instead which must be folded out of the way, and there is a bracket that keeps the panel on so I can't get to the commutator. Wondering if you know a way I could do this and also a good lubricator to use. Thanks in advance your videos are very useful.
Hi mate,
Yes there are a few variations - if it doesn't have screws, you'll need to just bend the brush retainers out the way. Sometimes the wheels mean that you can't remove the front plate either - if that's the case, you may need to carefully knock them off their axles, and pull them out- it's not a very nice job though, so only attempt if you're confident! :D
Thanks for watching,
Sam :)
Mine screech aswell; where do you get the cd motors that you used?
Hey Sam, thanks for the video, going to attempt my dad's 225. I have an ancient Hornby 125 R317-070 on the motor. The pickups that are held down by screws here appear to be riveted to the plastic and I'll actually have to bend them out to get to the springs. Does this sound right? Thanks.
No problem Paul - hope it goes well for you! Yes some of the spring retainers do have to be bent away - that's right! :)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Which oil did you use? For lubricating the motor I have recently got my train stuff from storage and alot of my diesel trains are not working and i think they need cleaning/lubricating.
I use hemline sewing machine oil - it works great! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hello again Sam . Have checked my Hornby locos there are a number of different ringfield motors starting with the silver seal up to the last china made ones . Would at some stage could you please do a video identifying what number motor they are. Regards John OZ.
+Wilso 1947 Hi John, as you may have seen, I don't actually have very many diesel locos (being more of a steam lover) so I only have a very select few ringfield motors to choose from. Sorry I can't be of more help, I assume that most of them operate on the same principles though, despite their differences.
Let me know if I can be any more help :)
Cheers,
Sam
Hi Sam. I have a Hornby BR 4-6-2 Class A3 Loco "St. Frusquin" which has a Ringfield motor in the tender. The loco died on me by simply slowing down to a halt. I cleaned the motor as per your video but it still won't move the wheels. The motor drives the gears ok but nothing is reaching the wheels. It may be a connectivity problem that I can't see.
Do you carry out repairs at all? I would normally take the loco to my local model shop as the proprietor has someone to do servicing and repairs, but because of lockdown this can't happen.
I would be so grateful for your response. Thanks, Pete.
It sounds like the main driving gear could be slipping - you need to gently pull it off, clean with IPA, and use superglue to stick it back on once dry - use a tiny amount of glue, applied with a needle, and make sure the bearing doesn't get glued up!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Hi Sam, have deleted my former reply. The small main driving gear in the middle is indeed slipping. The loco wants to move but the little demon in the middle says no! Lol. Am a little apprehensive about using superglue though. Might purchase a solid brass gear. I used some Isopropanol to clean the shaft that the gear rests on, and the gear itself. It kept slipping though. Will persevere however, I'll get there in the end! Best, Pete.
Hi again Sam. I tried putting some insulating tape around the spindle that the gear spur sits on then put the gear spur on next. It didn't quite work so I took the tape off.
However, the tape may have left some sticky residue because when I replaced the gear spur again, it didn't come loose when I tested the loco. The loco has now done a few circuits of a test track and no loosening of the gear spur. Good news. It may, however, pay to put some blue tack (yes, you heard right!) on the spindle for extra adhesion. I don't think that it would pose the risk that superglue might.
Thoughts? Best, Pete.
Can you use isopropyl alsohol instead of lighter fluid? Also whats the best way to remove the tarnish from the copper plates?
Hi Owen, yes you can - and in fact, I do use it these days - I think it's less obnoxious than lighter fluid.
The best ways are to use a fibre pen, or use a dremmel and wire wheel to polish them... the latter is much more abrasive though, and you shouldn't use it on anything fragile/flimsy!
All the best,
Sam :)
Sam'sTrains Thank for that!!
Nice job but I would recommend using rubbing alcohol instead of lighter fluid.
Hi mate, thanks a lot - agreed, I do use that now! I think the lighter fluid works better, but I think the alcohol is safer to breathe!
Cheers,
Sam :)
Used this to clean up a slightly newer version of the Class 91 motor that didn't run. It works again, though the grey centre cog keeps slipping forward off the rest of the gears. Quite noisy now.
Great to hear that Paul - might need to glue that gear on - try removing it, cleaning the shaft and gear with IPA, and apply a tiny amount of superglue to the inside of the gear, then force it back onto the shaft. Be very careful not to glue up the bearings!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains
Somehow managed to get it to stay in place.
Any advice on how to reduce the noise from the motor its self?
Cheers
Paul
Hi Sam, following this for my first ever service, never done it before... My motor, however, appears to be soldered to the wires, you cant take them off and take the motor away from the body :(. It's going to make it very hard to do what you are doing...
You mean the front plate of the motor has the wires soldered directly to it? In that case, yes that will make things difficult - do you have a soldering iron?! lol!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Haha after all this time ive been following you on youtube i can see you on facebook so i liked you pages so bloody awesome m8.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Hi Sam, like you video, i have a class 35 Hymek, which has the same motor, but the copper brush holders don't come off. How easy is it to service ?
Hi Dave, it's still relatively easy to service - though you will need to knock the wheels out if you want to access the armature. If it's not something you've done before, I'd recommend not doing that, and just cleaning the armature best you can through the gaps. If you decide to try, bend the pick-up holders up, remove the springs and brushes first, remove all the plastic gears, and then knock the geared wheel off the axle very carefully. Then, the front plate should be free to unclip. To re-attach the wheels, use a vice, and press them back on, making sure you don't go too tight - about 1mm of 'play' is what you want!
Thanks for watching,
Sam :)
Cheers Sam i might let you do the service
Thanks for the reply Sam. Most of mine are steam locos that have the ringfield motors 70s 3 diesels class 47s. The next 2 decades 80s and 90s all steam, Duchess, schools 9f , football class only 2 diesels 25 & 29, went to Bachmann for diesels then. Regards John Oz.
+Wilso 1947 Okay fair enough - well if you let me know what you want to know, I can do my best to find out for you. If necessary, I can give you my email address and you can mail me photos if it might help you? :)
Cheers,
Sam
Hello Sam, Thank you for all your videos, every single one is a gem and you're a treasure of information.
Could I ask you a question, as you are definitely a guru.
Hornby class 43 HST 125 the older ones with Ringfield Motors.
Is it possible to get the diecast motor assy to allow you to put a cd motor in the dummy cars to make them all powered as in real life?
Can buy a complete train for £27 pair Power and Dummy.
But the motor bogie assy is a lot higher for some reason.
Can a 3d printer print one or have you found them available at reasonable prices?
Thanks
Keep up the good work
Michael
Just seen this video. Can you tell me whether locos that have traction tyres always have them on the drive wheels. I have one tyre that has perished but can't tell which loco or wheel it has come from. Cheers.
Hi John, the Hornby ringfield motors always have the tyres on the driven side (gear side). If you look closely at the wheels, you should see a ridge where the tyres go!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Thanks for the info. Merry Christmas.
Hi I didn't know this video existed until today, but my Class 91 has been a non runner for around 22 years, now she works again. I did pretty much everything you said in this video too lol. I have a question.
I have a class 43 HST, and the motor turns and works fine for a while, then the silver cog tends to jump out of it's place, or the motor turns but the cogs don't. Do you know what could be up with it?
Hi mate, thanks very much for the comment - really glad you were able to fix an old loco - it's a great feeling getting them up and running again!
Yeah, the problem there is that the main brass/metal gear is slipping on the armature - you can fix this by buying a replacement gear (for the Hornby ringfield motor on Ebay), or by carefully super-gluing the gear on - though be careful not to glue the mechanism up! (I normally take the glue option)
Best of luck,
Sam :)
Thanks for the reply. Does that mean gluing the bar which runs through the middle of the motor and connects to the gears, onto the silver cog? And which glue would you use?
anthonys utube thank you, I will try that for sure
seggaman12
Hi I Tried To Take The Sheel / Body Cover On A Intercity 125 But The Cab Started To Crack How Should I Take it of thanks
this was very helpful thanks for putting it on you tube. I will be watching more of your videos as i begin my hobbie into model trains.
Have an old Lima J50 - will service first before putting the CD motor in as last resort :) Two helpful videos. Alan.
Okay mate, yeah that's what I'd recommend! Just bare in mind that the lima J50 has a very different mechanism to this - it may not be possible to fit the CD motor, at least not in the same way.
Thanks for watching,
Sam :)
I have a 90's hornby schools class with a ringfield motor and it is starting to make a screeching noise. Any ideas? Thanks Peter
Have you tried giving it a full service? That usually fixes it!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains
I haven't serviced it recently. I will service it then test it. Thanks