What a joy. Just got my old Hornby R357 to run again for the first time in 40 years. Couldn't have done it without this really simple, helpful video. Many thanks
Thanks John due your video my r357 class 31 is running again got it out loft from 1974 we run it my garden railway just need to know we're to obtain brushes from
An excellent viral of cleaning the spider motor unit, especially for beginners. A great intro to aide and giving your locomotives a longer life span of running time on your layout. So cheers to John for showing the cleaning and bonus tips for these older motors.
John...I am running out of things to say to you here with all your comments? I can only say again thank you for them all & your support. My best, John.,
John you don't have to say anything, I am enjoying your video's, so a thumbs up will do - lol. I picked up a few extra tips to add to my own testing and maintenance knowledge. You can do a video on my 9 volt Duracell battery tip if you need something portable. Even do a track tester build using a LED/small bulb, with three part block cut from a medium size terminal block (just nice for OO/HO and angle the built unit for N gauge). Using copper screws on the outer connections as collectors from the track, connected through a resistor to the middle terminal to hold the LED or small filament blub.
Recently purchased an R357 NSW livery loco virtually brand new still in the box from a flea market. Got it going well then stopped & refused to work no doubt due to 39 years of being idle . This video did the trick as I wasn't familiar with this engine design. She now runs smooth as.
Hi John, thanks for taking then time to do this video. I committed the cardinal sin and undone the nut and everything fell a part on me with no way of me knowing how to put it back together. Thanks to your video, its now all back together. J.
thanks john. really clear instructions will now get old hymek up and running.took the body off had never seen horizontal worm drive motor before now i know how to service it. inherited the hymek from father in laws collection as a non runner fingers crossed wil be able to get it to gothanks again keep up the great vidios yours sam woodward
Hello again John, i did as you advise in the video but someone got the my R751 before me, as bits were missing, i noticed on another of your videos a repair for the missing tag washer at the top i manufactured one locally, put it all together and off it went around the track like a two year old, I suspect the loco is from the Hornby take over, as the triang name has been professionally removed leaving just the R751, which was enough to lead me here to your marvelous video once again many thanks.
Thanks buddy....this is exactly why I do these vids....I helps people tackle something that otherwise they would find daunting, with not having anything to reference too. Kind regards, John.
Hi, great tutorial. It all works even the brush falling apart when I was cleaning the end. I didn't even get close to the brush end. Cleaning the commutator with the dremel is a great idea. If you are very light on it, it gets all the black stuff off it and no damage to it. Thank you.
Duncan Watson Thanks for the comment Duncan & yes....the Dremel is good but no serious pressure though! I too have had a few brushes break-off but hey....it's no big deal....plenty of spares available out there! All the best, John.
hi john thanks for another great tutorial I have had this motor in piece's in a box for quite a while wondering how it goes back together following you step by step including the cups of tea I have got it working again its in tip top condition couldn't have done it without you and your videos thnx again Dean
Great vid again. I relay enjoy them. I have 2 of these motors that need doing and with the help of your vid I think I will be fine with doing them. All that I need is to find the parts needed many thanks again John
Hi John many thanks for instructive video. The title mentions EM2 R351 and while the spider pickup stuff is spot on the chassis (mine at least) are a different design. The motor shaft is held in place by two nylon bearings which are held in place by the magnets. The wheels are the same but held in place at the stub of the axles alone. My motor shaft floats as a result. You have several Triang EM2s so you must know this. Have I missed your video on the EM2 chassis?
I love these videos you do John of stripping down and servicing the old Hornby locos, I find them really interesting and more importantly - very useful. Thanks for taking the time and trouble in doing this video and also for sharing. Have a great Christmas too!!…………..Graham
The transcontinental and Canadian Pacific look absolutely fabulous! Lucky guy! Excellent video. All the best for Christmas & Happy New Year from us all here.
Thanks for the kind words & comments too guys.....much appreciated. I am very much looking forward to running my full collection of switchers very soon. Seasons greetings to you all too. Best regards, John.
Vid came at the right time just got a hymek runs like a swiss watch unless it's cold then it becomes a right faf to get it going video to come on it my one is special. Nice to see you back. Will v-h p.s channel name has changed.
John what a help you have been on passing on your hard earned knowledge. Just got my sons Hornby/Triang loco's out of a tea chest in the loft after being packed away for over 45 years. With your help I have got them all working 7 or 8 of them. Decided to build my own railway at 77 but want to do it in DCC (must be mad) as we have a spare 14' x 14' room to go at. I hope to convert some of these old loco's but cannot find anywhere where it shows how to DCC one of these spider power bogies. The one I have X337 in a class 31 has no internal wires in it at all or from the rear bogie. As new to it a bit stuck. Would I be right in that the Red & black wires would be soldered onto the two spider half's? Would the s5230 capacitor would be done away with as it would cause a short if soldered back in place? Any help would be much appreciated or another DCC conversion on the X 337 Spider. I'm working of Hornby/Triang sheet 66 April 1968 as I think we bought the loco new in 1969-71. Great channel.
Very useful video as I have just bought two old 1960's Hornby diesel locomotives, both non runners, which I want to service and get running. I bought some new brushes for them from ebay, but they are so thick that the brass brush carriers are actually touching the chasis sides. will this cause a short? I striped and cleaned them thoroughly, but they still have no sign of life in them. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
I'm geriatric but new to this hobby. Recently brought a Triang Deltic. Everything is good except for the screw holding the body to the chassis is missing, where can I get a replacement?
Hello John, I have a green EM2 Aurora which I cannot get to run. Can you help by explaining how to remove the body without breaking it and what I should look for? Thanks very much in advance
Thanks for this, I’ve got a class 31 that I’ve owned for 44 years, the bogie has been repaired badly over the years. What is this type called so I can try and get a replacement? Cheers Steve
Hi John............thanks once again, I can now face servicing my Budd Rail car with a little more confidence. Juat a few questions: my R55/R155 etc bogies have a suppressor (yellow) and a capacitor (that right?....little grey thing). Your capacitor here looks much smaller and I didn't see the suppressor....? Also the wheels on the former bogies have to go in one way only whereas these can go in anyway...how's that? Brian
Hello again Brian. OK, the yellow thing is actually called a choke....this was added later...along with the capacitor (size doesn't matter) to help reduce TV interferance further....it isn't always there & in-fact with all TV being digital now...it doesn't really matter so much anymore. As for the fact that the axles can be inserted either way well yes.....but one of the wheels on each axle is inslulated with a plastic bush....this has to be the wheel that fits to the pick-up side. Hope this all helps? Regards, John.
Thank you. I have some problem running my loco. the motor is randomly working. when working it litterally spins few mm. thats it. i have cleaned all the parts reasonably with lighter fluid,but still no difference. Any ideas would be much helpful. I amusing 16v transformer and the 16v controller with 0-12v output.
RKP Chennai Sorry for the delay. OK, if you have followed the video precisely then there's not much more I can say to you. Maybe you've missed something or assembled something incorectly? You need to apply voltage directly to the motor to see if the wheel pickups are the problem? Please let me know what you find? All the best, John.
chambs123 Thanks for your reply. I did try to connect the 12v power source directly on to the motor points . It ran slowly and then slight smoke came out and motor stopped running.Again after a while whentried again the motor runs slowly and then seizes. I dont know whether the brushes are the proble. Let me know what else i can try to rectify the problem.
RKP Chennai There are usually only 2 reasons that a motor will smoke/flare-up & 1 is when the segments are clogged up with carbon (clean the segs out well with a sharp pin) & 2 the motor may have a shorted turn on one of the windings....basically making it scrap! I have replacement armatures for these....no problem! let me know? All the best, John.
Hi John and a Happy New Year to you. Thanks for a very helpful informative video. Can you tell me from your experience after I have cleaned and serviced two Class 31 X337 bogies they both sound a bit growly especially at slow speed, is this normal or am I expecting too much from an old loco? Is there something to do to quiet them down?
Hi John got tri ang class 31 with the motor your servicing but I doesn't have the capacitor on it does it need one and if it does what cap is it and what value cap do i need? Happy New year, Matt.
Its not imperative for the cap to be there but it does reduce the spark on the brushes & makes them last longer. You need a 500pf @ 50 volts or more. Seasons greetings. Regards, John.
Hi John, I've got a few locos with these bogies, and on some of them the gear on one axle is so badly worn, the worm won't drive it. Is there a fix for this apart from finding a better second hand or new old stock axle?
Hello John, my thanks for the vid, i brought a class 37 years back and it never run it has the number R751 on it, watching your vid i have bits missing from the top section, guess i will look online for spares. pity really as the Loco is in very good condition. it has the rear wheel pick ups but theft are stowed. Once again my thanks in solving my problem.
Hi John, I am servicing the exact same bogie but when it is running it is making a clicking noise. The worm gears either side of the copper winding appear to be turning against the end stop creating the noise, how much travel should be in that part as it moves back and forth quite a bit? Love the videos by the way, absolutely brilliant!
Hi John Do you service the same powered boggie for subscribers. I have a type 3 i bought with a job lot of track, im just starting out in the hobby and have no knowledge of repairing etc. .The type 3 isnt running Hapoy to pay for your time Cheers Gerry
Hi John. I have just serviced one of these from the Hornby R357. It needed the plastic part of the spider to be replaced, as the edge of the brush hole had melted. I reassembled it , with new brushes, put on the test track and applied power, it ran about 2 inches and stopped. Now it just hums when power is applied. Any ideas?
Hi Alan, sorry for the reply delay...I am sooooooooo busy! OK, if during the service you removed the keep-plate at the bottom & traction magnets there is a very good chance that the armature has moved as the traction magnets hold it in place & this is very critical! The armature has 2 collapsible plastic 'O-rings & if this hasn't been put back correctly the armature can move & jam-up! I think this may be your problem? Please keep me posted. Cheers, John.
@@chambs123 Thanks for replying, John. I will have a look at the o-rings at the weekend, but one of the traction magnets has done a disappearing act. I'll let you know how it goes.
Alan, the traction magnets are a MUST KEEP! This is your problem....the armature has dropped at the end where the traction magnet should be & this has undoubtedly caused it to jam buddy! Cheers, John.
@@chambs123 Hi John. Found the magnet in a bag of old half-started Airfix lineside accessory kits. I buffed up the commutator and pickups, lightly oiled the armature bushes and it's working like new. Many thanks for your assistance with this. 😀😀 Alan.
I John Ive just bought a R287 Class 47 with Ringfield motor. Have you covered such a thing? What would you do with it service wise? It looks clean & tidy,
Hi Gary. My friend Sam from Sam's Trains has done a basic service on the ringfield type motor so you could check that. I have always intended to do a full strip-down & service video on them but still not gotten around to it. All the best, John.
Hi this might seem like a daft question but mine has the bushes missing and it's not run for nearly 30 years. All cleaned up as per your video but not sure if I somehow need to locate new brushes. What would you advice. Many thanks. Graham
Hi John, love the video - thanks for that! I have an R751 which I've kind of stripped and cleaned but it's still shorting and not responding at all. Any suggestions? I have today stripped, cleaned and serviced an identical motor in an R357 and it runs a treat. I put that motor in the body of the 751 and got that running - so I've now got two different locos, sharing an interchangeable motor!! I'm not going to let it beat me, but if you've got any suggestions, that'd be great. Steve
Thanks for this video, John. Together withyour soldering tutorial, and some spares from eBay, I've been able to get a Hornby Hymek R.758 working after at least 35 years! Very happy. One question, if anyone can answer it. What type of oil is it you dot around this machine? Cheers Jim.
I wonder why one of my serviced bogies sounds like a smooth turbine and the other (same type) sounds like a hive of angry bees! Welcome any theories.....
The class 35 in Orange and Black was a feeble attempt by Hornby to satisfy the Irish market,the CIE logo on the front was the logo of the Irish transport company.
I found your channel yesterday and subscribed yesterday also. I really enjoy your videos John. Not too many people discus how to clean, repair and maintain Tri-Ang trains on TH-cam. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the subject.I have learned a lot by watching your videos. Is this motor like the one in the Tri-Ang Budd car?
Hi there, John. I have just subscribed to your amazing channel. I was wondering if you have made a video how-to on fitting a decoder to these particular motors as I have 2 that I would like to convert to DCC. Thanks, Ian
![Triang EMU & DMU Motor Bogie Maintenance. Wheel bearings [Model Railway Tips] 2016 from MikesMovies](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f5lKAMCIwZU/mqdefault.jpg)
What a joy. Just got my old Hornby R357 to run again for the first time in 40 years. Couldn't have done it without this really simple, helpful video. Many thanks
+Rory O'Callaghan Thanks Rory.....glad to have been of help. Cheers, John.
Thanks John due your video my r357 class 31 is running again got it out loft from 1974 we run it my garden railway just need to know we're to obtain brushes from
Lifesaver mate, I have a pre-1970 Tri-Ang class 31 with a wiring issue and you explained the system so clearly, its now up and running again, Thanks!
An excellent viral of cleaning the spider motor unit, especially for beginners. A great intro to aide and giving your locomotives a longer life span of running time on your layout. So cheers to John for showing the cleaning and bonus tips for these older motors.
John...I am running out of things to say to you here with all your comments? I can only say again thank you for them all & your support. My best, John.,
John you don't have to say anything, I am enjoying your video's, so a thumbs up will do - lol. I picked up a few extra tips to add to my own testing and maintenance knowledge. You can do a video on my 9 volt Duracell battery tip if you need something portable. Even do a track tester build using a LED/small bulb, with three part block cut from a medium size terminal block (just nice for OO/HO and angle the built unit for N gauge). Using copper screws on the outer connections as collectors from the track, connected through a resistor to the middle terminal to hold the LED or small filament blub.
Thanks for the nice comment John.....very kind of you. Cheers, John.
Recently purchased an R357 NSW livery loco virtually brand new still in the box from a flea market. Got it going well then stopped & refused to work no doubt due to 39 years of being idle . This video did the trick as I wasn't familiar with this engine design. She now runs smooth as.
Just fixed my old OLD (owned since 1978) Hymek 😃👍 Thanks for the video!
Hi John,
thanks for taking then time to do this video. I committed the cardinal sin and undone the nut and everything fell a part on me with no way of me knowing how to put it back together. Thanks to your video, its now all back together. J.
thanks john. really clear instructions will now get old hymek up and running.took the body off had never seen horizontal worm drive motor before now i know how to service it. inherited the hymek from father in laws collection as a non runner fingers crossed wil be able to get it to gothanks again keep up the great vidios yours sam woodward
Hello again John, i did as you advise in the video but someone got the my R751 before me, as bits were missing, i noticed on another of your videos a repair for the missing tag washer at the top i manufactured one locally, put it all together and off it went around the track like a two year old, I suspect the loco is from the Hornby take over, as the triang name has been professionally removed leaving just the R751, which was enough to lead me here to your marvelous video once again many thanks.
Thanks John these bogies are quite complex compared with the earlier bogies, Very helpful
Having just picked up a rather dirty older Tri-ang with a similar bogie this video will be invaluable when I strip it down, many many thanks!
Thanks buddy....this is exactly why I do these vids....I helps people tackle something that otherwise they would find daunting, with not having anything to reference too. Kind regards, John.
Fantastic program on servicing power bogie and great tips too. Its a joy to watch you all the best, you can now have that whisky hehehe.
+Michael Aldred Thanks Michael....appreciated. Cheers, John.
Hi, great tutorial. It all works even the brush falling apart when I was cleaning the end. I didn't even get close to the brush end. Cleaning the commutator with the dremel is a great idea. If you are very light on it, it gets all the black stuff off it and no damage to it. Thank you.
Duncan Watson Thanks for the comment Duncan & yes....the Dremel is good but no serious pressure though! I too have had a few brushes break-off but hey....it's no big deal....plenty of spares available out there! All the best, John.
very nice to see you back John the how to's are very good keep them up ..........Colin
Thanks Colin...have just been extra busy of late! All the best, John.
hi john thanks for another great tutorial I have had this motor in piece's in a box for quite a while wondering how it goes back together following you step by step including the cups of tea I have got it working again its in tip top condition couldn't have done it without you and your videos thnx again Dean
Very helpful for a relative novice such as myself ... many thanks indeed.
Just doing a Hymek. Invaluable video instruction. Thanks.
you sir, are a gent and a scholar.
Great vid again. I relay enjoy them. I have 2 of these motors that need doing and with the help of your vid I think I will be fine with doing them. All that I need is to find the parts needed many thanks again John
Hi John many thanks for instructive video. The title mentions EM2 R351 and while the spider pickup stuff is spot on the chassis (mine at least) are a different design. The motor shaft is held in place by two nylon bearings which are held in place by the magnets. The wheels are the same but held in place at the stub of the axles alone. My motor shaft floats as a result. You have several Triang EM2s so you must know this. Have I missed your video on the EM2 chassis?
I love these videos you do John of stripping down and servicing the old Hornby locos, I find them really interesting and more importantly - very useful. Thanks for taking the time and trouble in doing this video and also for sharing. Have a great Christmas too!!…………..Graham
Thank you Graham for your continued support & kind words.....it is much appreciated. A very festive wishes to you & yours too. All the best, John.
The transcontinental and Canadian Pacific look absolutely fabulous! Lucky guy! Excellent video. All the best for Christmas & Happy New Year from us all here.
Thanks for the kind words & comments too guys.....much appreciated. I am very much looking forward to running my full collection of switchers very soon. Seasons greetings to you all too. Best regards, John.
Vid came at the right time just got a hymek runs like a swiss watch unless it's cold then it becomes a right faf to get it going video to come on it my one is special. Nice to see you back.
Will v-h
p.s channel name has changed.
John what a help you have been on passing on your hard earned knowledge. Just got my sons Hornby/Triang loco's out of a tea chest in the loft after being packed away for over 45 years. With your help I have got them all working 7 or 8 of them. Decided to build my own railway at 77 but want to do it in DCC (must be mad) as we have a spare 14' x 14' room to go at. I hope to convert some of these old loco's but cannot find anywhere where it shows how to DCC one of these spider power bogies. The one I have X337 in a class 31 has no internal wires in it at all or from the rear bogie. As new to it a bit stuck. Would I be right in that the Red & black wires would be soldered onto the two spider half's? Would the s5230 capacitor would be done away with as it would cause a short if soldered back in place? Any help would be much appreciated or another DCC conversion on the X 337 Spider. I'm working of Hornby/Triang sheet 66 April 1968 as I think we bought the loco new in 1969-71. Great channel.
Hi John why does my bogie go backwards when the controller is in forward direction ?
Hahaha, because the magnet is in the wrong way around! Cheers, John.
Hi john. Nice to see you back and a cracking vid..really helpful and informative as usual...cant wait to see the next vid...cheers matt
Thank you Matt...have just done the next vid too.....on how to solder. I'll be back on the layout over the festive season. All the best, John.
Very useful video as I have just bought two old 1960's Hornby diesel locomotives, both non runners, which I want to service and get running. I bought some new brushes for them from ebay, but they are so thick that the brass brush carriers are actually touching the chasis sides. will this cause a short? I striped and cleaned them thoroughly, but they still have no sign of life in them. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
I'm geriatric but new to this hobby. Recently brought a Triang Deltic. Everything is good except for the screw holding the body to the chassis is missing, where can I get a replacement?
John
What side does the brush with insulator goes to
Hello John,
I have a green EM2 Aurora which I cannot get to run. Can you help by explaining how to remove the body without breaking it and what I should look for? Thanks very much in advance
thanks for that,, i undid the top screw and the lot fell to bits !! very clear as you build it back up ,,great help thank you ;)
Glad the video helped buddy, cheers for the comment, John.
Thanks for this, I’ve got a class 31 that I’ve owned for 44 years, the bogie has been repaired badly over the years. What is this type called so I can try and get a replacement? Cheers Steve
Hi John, motor service was good- but how do I remove the pick-up bogie? The soldiers are no longer attached, but I can’t figure out how to remove it.
Hi John............thanks once again, I can now face servicing my Budd Rail car with a little more confidence.
Juat a few questions: my R55/R155 etc bogies have a suppressor (yellow) and a capacitor (that right?....little grey thing). Your capacitor here looks much smaller and I didn't see the suppressor....? Also the wheels on the former bogies have to go in one way only whereas these can go in anyway...how's that?
Brian
Hello again Brian. OK, the yellow thing is actually called a choke....this was added later...along with the capacitor (size doesn't matter) to help reduce TV interferance further....it isn't always there & in-fact with all TV being digital now...it doesn't really matter so much anymore.
As for the fact that the axles can be inserted either way well yes.....but one of the wheels on each axle is inslulated with a plastic bush....this has to be the wheel that fits to the pick-up side. Hope this all helps? Regards, John.
Hi John. You wont fit the new brushes such as the ones Peters are selling the way you have shown? They are a pain in the wotsit
Great clean video illustration. Great working knowledge!!
RKP Chennai Thanks matey....glad the video helped. All the best, John.
Thank you. I have some problem running my loco. the motor is randomly working. when working it litterally spins few mm. thats it. i have cleaned all the parts reasonably with lighter fluid,but still no difference. Any ideas would be much helpful. I amusing 16v transformer and the 16v controller with 0-12v output.
RKP Chennai Sorry for the delay. OK, if you have followed the video precisely then there's not much more I can say to you. Maybe you've missed something or assembled something incorectly? You need to apply voltage directly to the motor to see if the wheel pickups are the problem? Please let me know what you find? All the best, John.
chambs123 Thanks for your reply. I did try to connect the 12v power source directly on to the motor points . It ran slowly and then slight smoke came out and motor stopped running.Again after a while whentried again the motor runs slowly and then seizes. I dont know whether the brushes are the proble. Let me know what else i can try to rectify the problem.
RKP Chennai There are usually only 2 reasons that a motor will smoke/flare-up & 1 is when the segments are clogged up with carbon (clean the segs out well with a sharp pin) & 2 the motor may have a shorted turn on one of the windings....basically making it scrap! I have replacement armatures for these....no problem! let me know? All the best, John.
What tip of copasitor does it have
Brilliant Step by Step Very helpful Thank you
Hi john, can you help me with DCC wiring of the class 37? Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks
Hi John and a Happy New Year to you. Thanks for a very helpful informative video. Can you tell me from your experience after I have cleaned and serviced two Class 31 X337 bogies they both sound a bit growly especially at slow speed, is this normal or am I expecting too much from an old loco? Is there something to do to quiet them down?
I enjoyed watching this video when im brave enough im going to try cleaning my ancient engine:)
could you tell me how to install a dcc chip?
Hi John got tri ang class 31 with the motor your servicing but I doesn't have the capacitor on it does it need one and if it does what cap is it and what value cap do i need? Happy New year, Matt.
Its not imperative for the cap to be there but it does reduce the spark on the brushes & makes them last longer. You need a 500pf @ 50 volts or more. Seasons greetings. Regards, John.
Hi John, I've got a few locos with these bogies, and on some of them the gear on one axle is so badly worn, the worm won't drive it. Is there a fix for this apart from finding a better second hand or new old stock axle?
Hello John, my thanks for the vid, i brought a class 37 years back and it never run it has the number R751 on it, watching your vid i have bits missing from the top section, guess i will look online for spares. pity really as the Loco is in very good condition. it has the rear wheel pick ups but theft are stowed. Once again my thanks in solving my problem.
Hi John, I am servicing the exact same bogie but when it is running it is making a clicking noise. The worm gears either side of the copper winding appear to be turning against the end stop creating the noise, how much travel should be in that part as it moves back and forth quite a bit? Love the videos by the way, absolutely brilliant!
Hi John
Do you service the same powered boggie for subscribers.
I have a type 3 i bought with a job lot of track, im just starting out in the hobby and have no knowledge of repairing etc.
.The type 3 isnt running Hapoy to pay for your time
Cheers
Gerry
Hi john I've the same motor that wasnt working right. I've stripped it cleaned it but it still keeps shorting out any suggestions pls thanks
The copper spider naturally wants to spring off it's annoying but it's met to do that if not the motor won't work or not very well .
Hi John. I have just serviced one of these from the Hornby R357. It needed the plastic part of the spider to be replaced, as the edge of the brush hole had melted. I reassembled it , with new brushes, put on the test track and applied power, it ran about 2 inches and stopped. Now it just hums when power is applied. Any ideas?
Hi Alan, sorry for the reply delay...I am sooooooooo busy! OK, if during the service you removed the keep-plate at the bottom & traction magnets there is a very good chance that the armature has moved as the traction magnets hold it in place & this is very critical! The armature has 2 collapsible plastic 'O-rings & if this hasn't been put back correctly the armature can move & jam-up! I think this may be your problem? Please keep me posted. Cheers, John.
@@chambs123 Thanks for replying, John. I will have a look at the o-rings at the weekend, but one of the traction magnets has done a disappearing act. I'll let you know how it goes.
Alan, the traction magnets are a MUST KEEP! This is your problem....the armature has dropped at the end where the traction magnet should be & this has undoubtedly caused it to jam buddy! Cheers, John.
@@chambs123 Hi John. Found the magnet in a bag of old half-started Airfix lineside accessory kits. I buffed up the commutator and pickups, lightly oiled the armature bushes and it's working like new. Many thanks for your assistance with this. 😀😀
Alan.
I John Ive just bought a R287 Class 47 with Ringfield motor. Have you covered such a thing? What would you do with it service wise? It looks clean & tidy,
Hi Gary. My friend Sam from Sam's Trains has done a basic service on the ringfield type motor so you could check that. I have always intended to do a full strip-down & service video on them but still not gotten around to it. All the best, John.
Fantastic thank you so much for this video it help me out thank you
Hi this might seem like a daft question but mine has the bushes missing and it's not run for nearly 30 years. All cleaned up as per your video but not sure if I somehow need to locate new brushes. What would you advice. Many thanks. Graham
hi graham, look on ebay and type in triang motor brushes x.67 then they are the right ones, hope this helps cheers.
Any idea where John is now? . He is sadly missed by many
Hi John, love the video - thanks for that! I have an R751 which I've kind of stripped and cleaned but it's still shorting and not responding at all. Any suggestions? I have today stripped, cleaned and serviced an identical motor in an R357 and it runs a treat. I put that motor in the body of the 751 and got that running - so I've now got two different locos, sharing an interchangeable motor!! I'm not going to let it beat me, but if you've got any suggestions, that'd be great.
Steve
Funny I was thinking you've not done a vid in a while as I was searching my subs & there you are with a 50min vid lol.. intresting vid john.... jim
Thanks Jim....no I'm here to stay & fighting back...tons of more ideas over time. All the very best for the up-coming festive season. Regards, John.
Thanks for this video, John. Together withyour soldering tutorial, and some spares from eBay, I've been able to get a Hornby Hymek R.758 working after at least 35 years! Very happy.
One question, if anyone can answer it. What type of oil is it you dot around this machine? Cheers Jim.
Great video - very helpful - many thanks!
What an excellent video
Great vid helped me fixing my class 37
Glad to have been of help buddy....that's exactly why I do these kind of videos. Cheers, John.
lol true mate
Thanks again.....John.
cant figure out how to get the cover off, scared to break it
Great Video John--Have you done one on the motor for 27000 Electra?
+Rupert the Bear Yes mate....it's in this video! All the best, John.
I wonder why one of my serviced bogies sounds like a smooth turbine and the other (same type) sounds like a hive of angry bees! Welcome any theories.....
Great to see u back
The class 35 in Orange and Black was a feeble attempt by Hornby to satisfy the Irish market,the CIE logo on the front was the logo of the Irish transport company.
Good to see you back :)
Thanks very much Stewart...all the best, John.
I found your channel yesterday and subscribed yesterday also. I really enjoy your videos John. Not too many people discus how to clean, repair and maintain Tri-Ang trains on TH-cam. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the subject.I have learned a lot by watching your videos. Is this motor like the one in the Tri-Ang Budd car?
Great video
Just noticed that it's on this one --Cheers
+Rupert the Bear Oh you found it....haha. Best, John.
great vid many thanks
Hi there, John. I have just subscribed to your amazing channel. I was wondering if you have made a video how-to on fitting a decoder to these particular motors as I have 2 that I would like to convert to DCC.
Thanks, Ian
Great video very informative.
Thanks Rossieboy...all the very best, cheers, John.
ps I have used a little oil but still no good..Alan
Hi Ant.....I have already sent you my email address so I can help you with this.....I'll PM you my details again. Cheers, John.
Yay your back
I sure am & with loads more to come over time! regards, John.
He’s gone again. Probably for good unfortunately.
John,
Another great guide. As like all your instructive video's. We all learn from you .
Wheels in post early next week
DaveBQ1
Thanks for the kind words/comments again Dave....much appreciated. Hope you are OK. All the best, John.
Great to see u back
Great video