I have a big bit of cardboard with a drawing of the front cover on. As I remove each bolt I stick it through the corresponding hole in the cardboard. That way I know the correct length bolt goes back in the right place 😊
That bolt for the front pulley is what got me started on my Milwaukee cordless journey. I have a number of tools and tricks, including the bar and starter motor one, and nothing would touch the thing. I finally gave up and bought an 18 volt 3/4 drive gun, thinking for $700 ( at the time ) this bloody thing had better work. Took it about a second..... I think the last bloke thought you needed to use the whole bottle of thread lock on that one bolt.
I struggled too, on my 200tdi the manual says 340Nm PLUS loctite… you can guess the struggle losen up this bolt. But now it‘s easy for me i bought a thick 30mm striking box wrench and a fitting 1,5m steel square tube. Losing it up now is no struggle at all and more gentle for the crankshaft rather than using an impact gun😎
I was advised to replace the two plastic coolant plugs with brass ones on thermostat housing and the radiator as the plastic ones fail. Only a few quid so a cheap upgrade to protect the engine from failure. 🙂👍
Mike, periodically here in lidl we get these pumps like you described and theyre really good for jobs like that and only about £15 Ultimate speed 12v pump
You can see from some of the questions on FB forums that folks with no idea, no skills, sense to leave alone & unable to read and follow the manual are attempting to change timing belts on Tdi’s. One can only imagine some of the horror’s awaiting next owners when they investigate the legacy of problems or unusual noises in the PO’s wake! I’ve had to resolve some particularly shoddy work done by a garage the PO of my Defender had done. What seems like common sense or good practice to some of us is not widespread practice even across apparently qualified motor mechanics.
Yes I think we caught this in the nick of time! You have probably realized I do not answer on forums - only here. Most treads drag on and end up with no clear answer and talking about their dogs
Mike, I don't know about presently, but rather than just changing the fan bearing cartridge in that timing cover you used to have to buy the whole assembly, new cover and all, separate bearing cartridges were unobtainium. Are you going to fit a new water pump "while you're in there", seeing as you're doing the 'P' gasket. I hope those long bolts that go through the 'p' gasket section of the water pump aren't seized into the inner casing. This operation is giving me frightening flashbacks to days of old.
@@BritannicaRestorations our local bearing service shop had an NOS early model Ford Falcon water pump cartridge that, after cutting one end of the shaft off, was a perfect fit, the last one I bought to replace a collapsed bearing in a Tdi fan for a mate, cost $8.00. The local Landie workshop quoted $300 for the new item that came in the cover fitted as an assembly, that's if they could get one here in Australia.
Thanks for video Mike, mine is due again, 350,000km P gasket alloy housing on mine is warped, reason it doesn't seal, Another problem from factory new, the three gears all were not tempered they spun on shafts, keyway wore through the crank, cam gears,
Maybe it is red wine or a mixture of the red stuff and the blue coolant? Just as well you're changing the timing belt! Would be getting narrower by the day. It pays to know what your doing certainly.
Hi Mike, was any of the timing cases replaced as well in the original LR dealer recall mod? Vague recollections that there was more than pulleys? We've got the protruding gasket tab on ours at least and as a former local farm estates gamekeeper car, who gave me his service records (back in 2000) when I got it, there was a mention of the dealer timing belt mod being done within.
I think they supplied the same gasket even if it had the old pulley set - over 25 years later I am still seeing the original pulley system now and again - mostly on imports from Eastern Europe and parts of Africa
Another important part on the timing mod is the IP to engine block bracket. It needs to be the one with sliding bushings, not the fixed one. It helps to not bend the timing gear case. Cheers!
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I have a big bit of cardboard with a drawing of the front cover on. As I remove each bolt I stick it through the corresponding hole in the cardboard. That way I know the correct length bolt goes back in the right place 😊
Great tip!
“Luigi” the Italian Land Rover is getting some quality service and attention.
Great work, Mike
Thanks!
my wife saw this comment and is now insisting on calling it Luigi.. so thanks for that! haha
@@bobbyturcot You’re welcome!!
That engine looks mint (ish)
It's not bad
That bolt for the front pulley is what got me started on my Milwaukee cordless journey. I have a number of tools and tricks, including the bar and starter motor one, and nothing would touch the thing. I finally gave up and bought an 18 volt 3/4 drive gun, thinking for $700 ( at the time ) this bloody thing had better work. Took it about a second..... I think the last bloke thought you needed to use the whole bottle of thread lock on that one bolt.
I used to use a 1-inch drive air gun which weights 3/4 ton and now my old 1/2 drive air gun with 130 PSI will usually get the bolts out
I struggled too, on my 200tdi the manual says 340Nm PLUS loctite… you can guess the struggle losen up this bolt. But now it‘s easy for me i bought a thick 30mm striking box wrench and a fitting 1,5m steel square tube. Losing it up now is no struggle at all and more gentle for the crankshaft rather than using an impact gun😎
I was advised to replace the two plastic coolant plugs with brass ones on thermostat housing and the radiator as the plastic ones fail. Only a few quid so a cheap upgrade to protect the engine from failure. 🙂👍
Thanks for sharing
Great to see another 300 TDi belt being changed and the problems that can be lurking inside 🇬🇧
Never know what you may find!
Mike, periodically here in lidl we get these pumps like you described and theyre really good for jobs like that and only about £15
Ultimate speed 12v pump
Yes they are very handy!
LOL, I was initially looking for a white timing belt...
lol!
You can see from some of the questions on FB forums that folks with no idea, no skills, sense to leave alone & unable to read and follow the manual are attempting to change timing belts on Tdi’s.
One can only imagine some of the horror’s awaiting next owners when they investigate the legacy of problems or unusual noises in the PO’s wake! I’ve had to resolve some particularly shoddy work done by a garage the PO of my Defender had done.
What seems like common sense or good practice to some of us is not widespread practice even across apparently qualified motor mechanics.
Yes I think we caught this in the nick of time!
You have probably realized I do not answer on forums - only here.
Most treads drag on and end up with no clear answer and talking about their dogs
Mike, I don't know about presently, but rather than just changing the fan bearing cartridge in that timing cover you used to have to buy the whole assembly, new cover and all, separate bearing cartridges were unobtainium.
Are you going to fit a new water pump "while you're in there", seeing as you're doing the 'P' gasket. I hope those long bolts that go through the 'p' gasket section of the water pump aren't seized into the inner casing.
This operation is giving me frightening flashbacks to days of old.
The bearing is a John Deer tractor water pump bearing, and they are 100 yards away so I just buy the bearing rather than import the cover!
@@BritannicaRestorations our local bearing service shop had an NOS early model Ford Falcon water pump cartridge that, after cutting one end of the shaft off, was a perfect fit, the last one I bought to replace a collapsed bearing in a Tdi fan for a mate, cost $8.00. The local Landie workshop quoted $300 for the new item that came in the cover fitted as an assembly, that's if they could get one here in Australia.
Those covers are made in South America so a lot of the cost is shipping
Thanks for video Mike, mine is due again, 350,000km
P gasket alloy housing on mine is warped, reason it doesn't seal,
Another problem from factory new, the three gears all were not tempered they spun on shafts, keyway wore through the crank, cam gears,
Sorry to hear that
I always like these timing belt ones Mike. What problems will you find this time!
Well, it has half the old system and half the upgrade for a start!
British spark plug! are they different size than "normal "bosh plugs?
Maybe it is red wine or a mixture of the red stuff and the blue coolant? Just as well you're changing the timing belt! Would be getting narrower by the day. It pays to know what your doing certainly.
Hi Mike, was any of the timing cases replaced as well in the original LR dealer recall mod? Vague recollections that there was more than pulleys? We've got the protruding gasket tab on ours at least and as a former local farm estates gamekeeper car, who gave me his service records (back in 2000) when I got it, there was a mention of the dealer timing belt mod being done within.
I think they supplied the same gasket even if it had the old pulley set - over 25 years later I am still seeing the original pulley system now and again - mostly on imports from Eastern Europe and parts of Africa
Another important part on the timing mod is the IP to engine block bracket. It needs to be the one with sliding bushings, not the fixed one. It helps to not bend the timing gear case. Cheers!
Purple coolant G13 VW spec
A mówiłeś że nie masz rury PNP101251 na wzór 😢
"Otherwise, not too bad"???
Better than many I have seen....