You may be thinking of PETG. PLA doesn't tend to stick "too good". PETG is known for that. Glue stick is usually to help adhesion on the bed with PLA. I have not really heard too many reports of PLA damaging a bed. It's generally not strong enough to damage a bed before the PLA falls apart. I've never used gluestick on any print surface with PLA printing. Never damaged a print surface in over 10,000 prints with PLA. PETG - Well yeah I have lost 1 glass surface from that and learnt my lesson
Well. You don’t use the cool plate for PETG - and a well over a year ago, I ripped up my cool plate by NOT using glue, because it stuck too good. I specifically remember reading the glue stick was recommended for PLA to prevent damage to the cool plate.
Hi Igor. Personally I use the engineering plate a lot. It sticks really well as long as you clean it every 10 or 20 prints. The liquid glue is good and enables much easier removal after printing. I use P1S and X1C and there is little difference in print quality. Thanks for another great video.
I will never use gluestick, of course i only print PLA, but the smooth PEI sheet and the textured PEI sheet (and the Wham Bam PEX sheet) are the only ones I use and never with glue madness. Perfect prints every. single. time. I absolutely love my X1 Carbon, I can't believe the night and day difference between Bambu Lab and every other brand. I hope hope hope wish and pray that they stick around and get phone support for the ppl who want it.
I've acquired a few plates. At this point I mainly use PEX for most filaments, including PLA. I use Garolite, textured PEI, and the engineering plate with glue stick for certain filaments. I don't use the hot/cold plate stickers at all at this point. I did find that Windex works for PLA on the cold plate.
I bought an X1C when they were officially released (not kickstarter) so I think roughly 1.5 years ago. A bit unfortunate (for me) how the P1S is pretty much the same printer, only thing I guess is the hardened parts better camera and screen. For like 500€ more. Yes that screen sure must be expensive, but much cheaper printers like the creality ones seem to use the same screen while being cheaper than the P1S.
Pro tip: the top two buttons are vastly under-used by most owners, the left button just sleeps and wakes the screen - it's a great way to just check on your print progress without getting fingerprints on the screen lol; the second button - which is a swirl icon that seems to confuse a lot of people, is the universal symbol used in commercial settings for 'emergency stop' (the swirl refers to having to twist it to reset, though you don't do that it's the symbol that counts) pressing this button has one function: pausing the print and the printer prompting you if you want to resume print, cancel the print, or stay paused to do other things - pressing it a second time does nothing. But this is a great thing because finding the pause button (especially in an emergency) isn't always easy, but it's nice because if you wnat to do something like say swap filament because you're doing more than 4 colors without inserting a pause in your gcode, you can do so with the pause mode and still use the AMS functions and get back to printing seamlessly.
I personally went with a P1S since I wanted an enclosure on it instead of the open P1P. I feel that the people being mad at the screen not being a touchscreen do so for the wrong reason. The interface is completely serviceable, save for two major things: manually moving the axes is a giant pain, since all movements are done in very, very small increments, unlike the slicer and app and loading/unloading filament from the AMS is impossible, so is picking the slots from which to load the filament if you open a presliced file on the printer These are issues that Bambu should have definitely been able to fix themselves.
Another thing you can do with the X1, which I do with my Voron, is to heat soak the bed and chamber before a more critical print. Set the bed to the desired temperature, wait for it to reach, and then hold it for half an hour. You will get more thermal equilibrium and you will find you have less warping due to uneven thermal expansion and contraction. I also highly, highly recommend installing a BentoBox chamber filter in the X1 if you are printing anything with volatile organic compounds. It makes a world of difference.
CNC Kitchen had a test showing high speed prints are coming out weaker. Prusa has claimed they don't want to increase their speeds beyond a certain point for that reason also. I would check on that finding before deciding on filament test machine. You may still want to use the Bambu machines but slow it down to get more strength or maybe you'll just still print at full speed. Either way I'd want to check that first before deciding on future test procedures.
I always use the lidar on my pei textured bed. Very good idea to check the temperature, I'm curious to know where is the temperature sensor. Good video
Yep, I’ve been doing it for over a year. Textured (black) pei with lidar from Bambu studio. Works fine. Has been mostly supported in the firmware for a while now from my understanding. It’s apparently not quite as accurate for flow rate as the flat sheet but I’ve never had any issues.
Thank you for this comparison. I'm on the verge to acquire a 3D Printer and my current choice is on the X1-C. Main reason is I don't want to mess with mods and get a machine that will work right off the box with minimal pain. On the Owl print did you use the same profile? I guess it was tweaked for the P1P
I haven't bought one since I would really like to see them come out with a larger print volume (400 x 400 x 400?) As a researcher, you know the dangers of the VOCs and off gassing that melting polymers put out. That said, I am pleased that more printers are coming with enclosure and some level of air filtration (it could be better). There have always been so many low quality brands out there in the under-$500 USD range there were just really awful. I like that Bambu Labs is clobbering that market with some good, quality machines.
They suggest glue stick, but I never use it. I clean the plate after every print with microfibre cloth, dish soap and very hot water and I never have an issue with adhesion or release. I just make sure to keep the plate completely clean - even to the point of never touching it with my fingers. When I print multiple prints one after the other, as the first print finishes, I pull the plate out and put in a clean plate right away, start the print and then clean the printed plate. I never do anything before I have cleaned the plate, and I never leave a dirty plate in the printer so that its always ready to print if I fire it up remotely using homekit.
The little screen isn't a big problem for those using smart devices. If it's a deal breaker then by all means don't buy the P1P/S. I have a very nice screen on an Ender, but the doggone printer doesn't work anywhere near as good a Bambu. And it's best to use the Bambu filament with a Bambu. Pick your battles as discretion is the better part of valor. YMMV.
There is no way to set the chamber temp, and of course it can only get so high due to the materials they use inside. To preheat the chamber i home the bed, turn on the aux fan, and set the bed temp to 110. The air circulation will remove heat from the bed and heat the air, and the heater will remain on. It should get to around 50C very quickly.
One thing you did not try out was the automatic flow compensation and the automatic pressure advance tuning. I think these features are huge as I can load up what ever filiment and run some 15min calibrations and have confidence that the prints will turn out well on the first print. I think that the LIDAR is a big value add.
The flow compensation isn’t good but the pressure advance works well. I use it now and than when I didn’t figured out the value myself. But I would like to see that the k value after automatic pressure advance in a print will be updated to the AMS.
I have quite a few printers as well as a k1. I am now happy with my k1 however it took some modding and tuning. In my case, I don't mind as the price is so much cheaper. I got mine for around 560$ cad. I just find the p1 series and x1 series so expensive here in Canada. We are talking 900$ CAD plus tax and shipping. So we are talking almost 1100$ with no ams for the p1s for example. And the x1c is way more. And was is the point in a Bambu lab printer without an AMS. While I am sure they are great, I just can't justify that price. Especially for a 256mm build plate. That is a lot for 1 printer. I was able to get quite a few printers with different build plate sizes to cover all my needs. I wish they would come down in price a bit for us here. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I dint see the reason why an enclosed printer can not be opened with a few moves. Personally i am getting a bit upset when its so obvious a company limiting their products by reason and they think i am going to buy an another one from them. Same feeling i had with Apple. I am using O-SX since 1990's. And i dont think i ever wanna go back to windows. But that does not made me blind not to see how Apple playing all their tricks with their customers. Bambu is a small company, but their really try to follow this scheme from the very start.
I print exclusively with the textured pei plate and the lidar seems to work fine with it. I definitely would love to know if it in fact reaches the same conclusions about flow rate as when using one of the other plates, though.
Excellent review! Was wondering, if you move the carbon rod assembly/printer head all the way to the rear side of the printer (or all the way to the front), do both sides of the assembly touch the gantry(ies) at the same time or is one of the sides touching earlier (i.e., the xy travel is not perfectly square)? Could you please also compare this with the p1p? Thanks!
9:52 do you have the same extrusion multiplier? Cause looking at the benchys is seem like the x1c are underextruding which would explain why the k1 parts are stronger.
I read that chamber temperature sensor is under those two buttons on the frame (have not checked myself) If you print for bit longer with 90C bed and without chamber fan (the thing behind that extract air from chamber through carbon filter) chamber jumps to 60C ... at 55-60C chamber for over 30min the head try to commit suicide :( .... the cover drops off as magnets melt out of the case. If you immediately push it back and open printer to let it cool while holding head in place damage is none to minimal but if you let it cool melted you can come to a point you have to purchase new head case (it is available both front and back head case)
@@juliusvalentinas unfortunately yes :( .. not sure if glue or the plastic can't handle the prolonged 60C but it fails :( .. it is a rather bad design choice in x1c
Can you make a comparison between this and the Qidi Xmax3? I have been cross shopping the X1C/P1S/XMax3 and haven't really found a comparison that goes through performance of ASA/PC/CF/Engineering filaments, and whether the printers are at a level where they can be used as an actual tool and not yet another thing that needs to be fiddled and worked on.
I thought of getting an X1C but with no chamber heater it put me off, especially after seeing X1E. Then I though about P1S but I haven't got it due to luck of a touch screen, especially after using my klipper screen. So I guess I have to wait even more until chamber heater becomes a norm. I am only printing engineering materials so it is important for me and I have never printed with PLA, I think is pointles.
Thanks for the recommendation, I am looking at it, but I think I have seen somewhere a new version of the Qidi printers, so I will wait a bit more. If I buy a printer I will keep it for years, so I want to make sure that it ticks all the boxes, for the price. I still own my CR10S for about 5 years, I am not the type of person who buys every new printer out there, but I believe we hit a milstone with corexy enclosed printers.
@juliusvalentinas I will get the ratrig Vcore4. It ticks all the boxes and it does not use proprietary stuff. It supports heat chamber, multimaterial, idex and so on.
@@tunedstylespecs Nice on paper but all the components are 3D printed? The profiles do not custom square mounts to make connections stable? No thanks, seen too many voron KITS gone south.
I'm never again buying a printer where I have to treat the print bed with glue, tape or anything else. That's a huge step backwards. I'll stick with my MKIV.
With the recently released noise cancelling firmware, the printers are very quiet!! I know measurements would be better, but offiering my opinion as an owner before and after the update. It's nearly silent now except for the chamber fan which is my biggest noise complaint. Keeping that fan from hitting 100% reduces noise greatly and has not impacted print quality for me.
The glue stick on the cool plate is not for adhesion, but to prevent the PLA from sticking to good and damaging the print surface when removed.
It's for both.
You may be thinking of PETG. PLA doesn't tend to stick "too good". PETG is known for that. Glue stick is usually to help adhesion on the bed with PLA. I have not really heard too many reports of PLA damaging a bed. It's generally not strong enough to damage a bed before the PLA falls apart. I've never used gluestick on any print surface with PLA printing. Never damaged a print surface in over 10,000 prints with PLA. PETG - Well yeah I have lost 1 glass surface from that and learnt my lesson
Well. You don’t use the cool plate for PETG - and a well over a year ago, I ripped up my cool plate by NOT using glue, because it stuck too good. I specifically remember reading the glue stick was recommended for PLA to prevent damage to the cool plate.
🤷🏽♂️
So you mean that a layer of hairspray could have the same protective effect ?
I'm really excited to see your Bambu filament tests!
All measuring is done. I need 1-2 days for video editing. Video probably on Sunday.
Hi Igor. Personally I use the engineering plate a lot. It sticks really well as long as you clean it every 10 or 20 prints.
The liquid glue is good and enables much easier removal after printing.
I use P1S and X1C and there is little difference in print quality.
Thanks for another great video.
I will never use gluestick, of course i only print PLA, but the smooth PEI sheet and the textured PEI sheet (and the Wham Bam PEX sheet) are the only ones I use and never with glue madness. Perfect prints every. single. time. I absolutely love my X1 Carbon, I can't believe the night and day difference between Bambu Lab and every other brand. I hope hope hope wish and pray that they stick around and get phone support for the ppl who want it.
Speaking from experience, the glue stick is to be able to remove the print without damaging the surface. I changed to a textured PEI plate.
I've acquired a few plates. At this point I mainly use PEX for most filaments, including PLA. I use Garolite, textured PEI, and the engineering plate with glue stick for certain filaments. I don't use the hot/cold plate stickers at all at this point.
I did find that Windex works for PLA on the cold plate.
I bought an X1C when they were officially released (not kickstarter) so I think roughly 1.5 years ago. A bit unfortunate (for me) how the P1S is pretty much the same printer, only thing I guess is the hardened parts better camera and screen. For like 500€ more. Yes that screen sure must be expensive, but much cheaper printers like the creality ones seem to use the same screen while being cheaper than the P1S.
Pro tip: the top two buttons are vastly under-used by most owners, the left button just sleeps and wakes the screen - it's a great way to just check on your print progress without getting fingerprints on the screen lol; the second button - which is a swirl icon that seems to confuse a lot of people, is the universal symbol used in commercial settings for 'emergency stop' (the swirl refers to having to twist it to reset, though you don't do that it's the symbol that counts) pressing this button has one function: pausing the print and the printer prompting you if you want to resume print, cancel the print, or stay paused to do other things - pressing it a second time does nothing. But this is a great thing because finding the pause button (especially in an emergency) isn't always easy, but it's nice because if you wnat to do something like say swap filament because you're doing more than 4 colors without inserting a pause in your gcode, you can do so with the pause mode and still use the AMS functions and get back to printing seamlessly.
Wow, thx for these tips. Useful
Yup, my X1C is on 24/7, silent when I'm not using it, and ready to go when I need it.
Thanks for this great review, much appreciated and I agree with you on the screens on the P1P/P1S.
I'm still waiting to see which printer I will get.
Great video, thanks! I appreciate your perspective as an existing P1S user
I personally went with a P1S since I wanted an enclosure on it instead of the open P1P.
I feel that the people being mad at the screen not being a touchscreen do so for the wrong reason.
The interface is completely serviceable, save for two major things:
manually moving the axes is a giant pain, since all movements are done in very, very small increments, unlike the slicer and app
and loading/unloading filament from the AMS is impossible, so is picking the slots from which to load the filament if you open a presliced file on the printer
These are issues that Bambu should have definitely been able to fix themselves.
I forgot another thing that Bambulab could have easily added in the firmware for the P1 series... fan speeds. You don't need a touchscreen for that.
Another thing you can do with the X1, which I do with my Voron, is to heat soak the bed and chamber before a more critical print. Set the bed to the desired temperature, wait for it to reach, and then hold it for half an hour. You will get more thermal equilibrium and you will find you have less warping due to uneven thermal expansion and contraction.
I also highly, highly recommend installing a BentoBox chamber filter in the X1 if you are printing anything with volatile organic compounds. It makes a world of difference.
CNC Kitchen had a test showing high speed prints are coming out weaker. Prusa has claimed they don't want to increase their speeds beyond a certain point for that reason also. I would check on that finding before deciding on filament test machine. You may still want to use the Bambu machines but slow it down to get more strength or maybe you'll just still print at full speed. Either way I'd want to check that first before deciding on future test procedures.
Something like this? th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JEyILCiEaYxpZ2aK (Bambulab speed vs layer adhesion)
Thanks for the info.
My understanding is that they toned down the x1c lighting to not interfere with the lidar. You can get light kits for it.
I did a light mod and yes you get issues with LiDAR.
I always use the lidar on my pei textured bed.
Very good idea to check the temperature, I'm curious to know where is the temperature sensor.
Good video
This is new to me (using Lidar with textured PEI). It works fine? How long are you using it?
Yep, I’ve been doing it for over a year. Textured (black) pei with lidar from Bambu studio. Works fine. Has been mostly supported in the firmware for a while now from my understanding. It’s apparently not quite as accurate for flow rate as the flat sheet but I’ve never had any issues.
@@MyTechFun I have been using mine for over two months now and have never had any issues using the lidar on the textured PEI.
I believe for x1c temp sensor is integrated together with button pcb on top of the printer.
Exactly the same
Thank you for this comparison. I'm on the verge to acquire a 3D Printer and my current choice is on the X1-C. Main reason is I don't want to mess with mods and get a machine that will work right off the box with minimal pain. On the Owl print did you use the same profile? I guess it was tweaked for the P1P
You can buy 3x adventurer 5m pro or qidi q1 pro printers. Qidi has chamber heater too
I haven't bought one since I would really like to see them come out with a larger print volume (400 x 400 x 400?) As a researcher, you know the dangers of the VOCs and off gassing that melting polymers put out. That said, I am pleased that more printers are coming with enclosure and some level of air filtration (it could be better). There have always been so many low quality brands out there in the under-$500 USD range there were just really awful. I like that Bambu Labs is clobbering that market with some good, quality machines.
Consider the shiny bottom part the below water line part - painted with different paint 🤓
Try 110c bed temp to get higher chamber temps.
The screen is really useful when using a AMS.
They suggest glue stick, but I never use it. I clean the plate after every print with microfibre cloth, dish soap and very hot water and I never have an issue with adhesion or release. I just make sure to keep the plate completely clean - even to the point of never touching it with my fingers. When I print multiple prints one after the other, as the first print finishes, I pull the plate out and put in a clean plate right away, start the print and then clean the printed plate. I never do anything before I have cleaned the plate, and I never leave a dirty plate in the printer so that its always ready to print if I fire it up remotely using homekit.
Sovol SV07 has silent idle mode too. It's great!
The little screen isn't a big problem for those using smart devices. If it's a deal breaker then by all means don't buy the P1P/S. I have a very nice screen on an Ender, but the doggone printer doesn't work anywhere near as good a Bambu. And it's best to use the Bambu filament with a Bambu. Pick your battles as discretion is the better part of valor. YMMV.
Recieved my p1s 5 days ago. My first time using a 3d printer and my banchie came out flawless. Very happy so far. Just need to get some experience now
Only X1E has actively heated chamber. X1C just uses the exhaust fan to „regulate“ it.
There is no way to set the chamber temp, and of course it can only get so high due to the materials they use inside.
To preheat the chamber i home the bed, turn on the aux fan, and set the bed temp to 110. The air circulation will remove heat from the bed and heat the air, and the heater will remain on. It should get to around 50C very quickly.
Useful tip, thx (moving to aux fan)
Wow, we will see some good testing here 😅
I hope in a month I'll get a X1C. I voted for this.
BTW, PLA+ on this printer have you used?
All the best!
PLA+ not yet. So far: PLA basic, PLA CF, PLA Glow, Polymaker PC ABS (these in video). Since that I tried PETG and one small ABS print.
One thing you did not try out was the automatic flow compensation and the automatic pressure advance tuning. I think these features are huge as I can load up what ever filiment and run some 15min calibrations and have confidence that the prints will turn out well on the first print.
I think that the LIDAR is a big value add.
The flow compensation isn’t good but the pressure advance works well. I use it now and than when I didn’t figured out the value myself. But I would like to see that the k value after automatic pressure advance in a print will be updated to the AMS.
I have quite a few printers as well as a k1. I am now happy with my k1 however it took some modding and tuning. In my case, I don't mind as the price is so much cheaper. I got mine for around 560$ cad. I just find the p1 series and x1 series so expensive here in Canada. We are talking 900$ CAD plus tax and shipping. So we are talking almost 1100$ with no ams for the p1s for example. And the x1c is way more. And was is the point in a Bambu lab printer without an AMS. While I am sure they are great, I just can't justify that price. Especially for a 256mm build plate. That is a lot for 1 printer. I was able to get quite a few printers with different build plate sizes to cover all my needs. I wish they would come down in price a bit for us here. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yes, I also think that it is overpriced, since P1S is much cheaper and the difference in specs is not big. Similar thing we have with X1E.
Did you see adventurer 5m pro
@juliusvalentinas yes. Too small for my needs. And price in Canada is still too high
P1p is brighter because of your room lighting, you can add LED lights to the X1c to fix the brightness.
Yes. The room light was stronger with x1c, but inside is darker because of enclosure.
I dint see the reason why an enclosed printer can not be opened with a few moves. Personally i am getting a bit upset when its so obvious a company limiting their products by reason and they think i am going to buy an another one from them. Same feeling i had with Apple. I am using O-SX since 1990's. And i dont think i ever wanna go back to windows. But that does not made me blind not to see how Apple playing all their tricks with their customers. Bambu is a small company, but their really try to follow this scheme from the very start.
Bambu is dji
I print exclusively with the textured pei plate and the lidar seems to work fine with it. I definitely would love to know if it in fact reaches the same conclusions about flow rate as when using one of the other plates, though.
My K1 Max is also absolutely quiet in idle mode.
Are you going to try the path-cf and pet-cf?
Excellent review!
Was wondering, if you move the carbon rod assembly/printer head all the way to the rear side of the printer (or all the way to the front), do both sides of the assembly touch the gantry(ies) at the same time or is one of the sides touching earlier (i.e., the xy travel is not perfectly square)?
Could you please also compare this with the p1p?
Thanks!
9:52 do you have the same extrusion multiplier? Cause looking at the benchys is seem like the x1c are underextruding which would explain why the k1 parts are stronger.
Glue stick for reduce cool plate adhesive.
Yes, I figure that in the meantime, when it sticked too good :-)
Why don't you preheat the chamber for engineering filaments? printing PC-ABS with a chamber at 40C in the beginning is not a real use case.
Yes that is very strange
I read that chamber temperature sensor is under those two buttons on the frame (have not checked myself)
If you print for bit longer with 90C bed and without chamber fan (the thing behind that extract air from chamber through carbon filter) chamber jumps to 60C ... at 55-60C chamber for over 30min the head try to commit suicide :( .... the cover drops off as magnets melt out of the case. If you immediately push it back and open printer to let it cool while holding head in place damage is none to minimal but if you let it cool melted you can come to a point you have to purchase new head case (it is available both front and back head case)
Are you serious, crappy printer qidi q1 pro has 60c chamber heater, cheap price too compared to x1c
@@juliusvalentinas unfortunately yes :( .. not sure if glue or the plastic can't handle the prolonged 60C but it fails :( .. it is a rather bad design choice in x1c
glue sticks are too messy. Just use hairspray. So much cleaner and neater and works wonders.
Can you make a comparison between this and the Qidi Xmax3? I have been cross shopping the X1C/P1S/XMax3 and haven't really found a comparison that goes through performance of ASA/PC/CF/Engineering filaments, and whether the printers are at a level where they can be used as an actual tool and not yet another thing that needs to be fiddled and worked on.
Have you decided what to buy? What about q1 pro and adventurer 5m puo
I thought of getting an X1C but with no chamber heater it put me off, especially after seeing X1E. Then I though about P1S but I haven't got it due to luck of a touch screen, especially after using my klipper screen. So I guess I have to wait even more until chamber heater becomes a norm. I am only printing engineering materials so it is important for me and I have never printed with PLA, I think is pointles.
There's always the Qidi printers
Thanks for the recommendation, I am looking at it, but I think I have seen somewhere a new version of the Qidi printers, so I will wait a bit more. If I buy a printer I will keep it for years, so I want to make sure that it ticks all the boxes, for the price. I still own my CR10S for about 5 years, I am not the type of person who buys every new printer out there, but I believe we hit a milstone with corexy enclosed printers.
Well have you bought anything, there is q1 pro or adventurer 5m pro. Chamber heater can be wired diy way
@juliusvalentinas I will get the ratrig Vcore4. It ticks all the boxes and it does not use proprietary stuff. It supports heat chamber, multimaterial, idex and so on.
@@tunedstylespecs Nice on paper but all the components are 3D printed? The profiles do not custom square mounts to make connections stable? No thanks, seen too many voron KITS gone south.
I'm never again buying a printer where I have to treat the print bed with glue, tape or anything else. That's a huge step backwards. I'll stick with my MKIV.
Mkiv is prusa mk4 bed slinger? Are you crazy?
I love your videos !! what is your 1st language
Serbo-Croatian (which doesnt exists any more)
Serbo-Croatian
Noise levels, please.
With the recently released noise cancelling firmware, the printers are very quiet!! I know measurements would be better, but offiering my opinion as an owner before and after the update. It's nearly silent now except for the chamber fan which is my biggest noise complaint. Keeping that fan from hitting 100% reduces noise greatly and has not impacted print quality for me.
noooo, wait wait, the glue should also go where the calibration lines are !!! I almost ruined my engineering plate because of that ...