Over tightening the drive belt will pull the engine back and create vibration and thus create the gap when you loosen the front motor isolators. The MoCo service bulletin says to always check belt tightness first in any vibration troubleshooting. Adding the shim allows the engine to slide back a hair and loosens the belt - which may have been the problem all along and gives the impression the vibration got better.
Replace the rear mount first and tighten it just shy of torque spec. Now replace and shim the front and hand tighten. Torque the rear mount. Start the Bike and let it idle for about a minute so the motor finds its natural resting place in the mounts. Shut it down and check your shims. Add or remove shims until there’s no gap and torque the front mount.
I use a flat slightly curved funnel to catch oil from my oil filter, and a big nail to punch a hole in the end of the filter to allow the oil to drain without getting oil on the front mount. Oil on the rubber mount kills it fast, that one in your video is trashed and needs to be replaced. Doing my back one this week.
Yikes, I've never done the back one and kinda want/don't want to also. For the filter, I just make like a guide or gutter thing out of foil and guide it out to the pan. I kinda like the nail idea though.
@@walkerjw81 The back one is not too bad, I've seen where people align the engine by loosening both the front and rear mounts, then starting the bike for five seconds, then tightening everything down. I'm going to try that, if I have a gap up front I'm going to use a shim. I was reading today that you shouldn't use shims unless you replace both the front and rear mounts, no sense using a shim to fix a bad mount LOL.
@@MyMotorcycleObsession the loosening "trick" is what I did also. Seemed to work fine. I eventually replaced the front with another OEM mount, maybe.... a year ago? This shimming I did helped the vibrations, but there definitely was even more vibration improvement with the new mount.
That mount is trashed. Did you ever buy a new one? Got mine for $99. from Dennis Kirk. Went to install it last night and the damn thing is wider in the top bracket holes. I can see where one side of rivets are too tight causing top to bow out. Now I have to return it and wait another week for a new one. Might wanna check for this issue when opening box before removing old one like I did. Hope this helps someone avoid the headache.
ya im not a fan of d/k their return policy sucks, got a set of bars from them found out couldnt use them they were stil wrapped up they stil charged restock fee. i dont plan on useing those guys again.
I see so many not following the the manual and its crazy not to. It specifically says if engine vibrations increase to do motor mount alignment procedure. And what do you know? it fixes the excessive vibrations. No need to shim or do anything else. Buy a manual. Use it. Have less troubles fixing or working on your bike.
Some say to tighten front and back , Isolators , really nice and snug ! Then start engine and only let it idle , for a couple minutes ! To let it settle into place ! Then finish torque !
That's what mine looked like, put a new motor mount in the other day, front and rear and also Sputhe Engine Stabilizers kit. It needs to be replaced, trust me. I was able to rip it apart by hand after I replaced it. Mines actually looked worse, and my 2016 FXDLS only has 10k
I have a 04 fxdl bought it last year with only 5000 its mint. I broke front isolater before i hit 6000 now bike is dangerous to ride woble like u read about. Replace all with high performance oil resistant polyurethane. Stabilizer too if u can afford. Life or death man dont fuck around
Harleys have too much torque for rubber mounts. If u ride like an old man they last 30000. But if u actually ride your bike like u want to u need to upgrade
not sure spacers is a good idea. When you were installing the mount, it looked like it was actually shifted a bit to the right. Just enough to cause bold not to go in by hand to start. How's it running?
I did this video about 14,000 miles ago. I've rode to Sturgis from San Diego and back, multiple trips to Yuma and Phoenix (from San Diego) and I ride in Texas now, a lot. Seems to still help with vibrations. I check it each oil change I do. Still looking at the Predator VCS though.
Never shim your front Engine Isolator....! It is designed to "Pull" on your engine. Without this tension the engine and drive-train will move back and cause more stress on the rear Isolator. Trust me. Bad idea.
Over tightening the drive belt will pull the engine back and create vibration and thus create the gap when you loosen the front motor isolators. The MoCo service bulletin says to always check belt tightness first in any vibration troubleshooting. Adding the shim allows the engine to slide back a hair and loosens the belt - which may have been the problem all along and gives the impression the vibration got better.
the motor ,transmission and swing arm are all ONE unit ,the two isolator mounts connect it to the frame
thanks for posting I did this and my bike is super smooth now it works
Replace the rear mount first and tighten it just shy of torque spec. Now replace and shim the front and hand tighten. Torque the rear mount. Start the Bike and let it idle for about a minute so the motor finds its natural resting place in the mounts. Shut it down and check your shims. Add or remove shims until there’s no gap and torque the front mount.
I use a flat slightly curved funnel to catch oil from my oil filter, and a big nail to punch a hole in the end of the filter to allow the oil to drain without getting oil on the front mount. Oil on the rubber mount kills it fast, that one in your video is trashed and needs to be replaced. Doing my back one this week.
Yikes, I've never done the back one and kinda want/don't want to also. For the filter, I just make like a guide or gutter thing out of foil and guide it out to the pan. I kinda like the nail idea though.
@@walkerjw81 The back one is not too bad, I've seen where people align the engine by loosening both the front and rear mounts, then starting the bike for five seconds, then tightening everything down. I'm going to try that, if I have a gap up front I'm going to use a shim. I was reading today that you shouldn't use shims unless you replace both the front and rear mounts, no sense using a shim to fix a bad mount LOL.
@@MyMotorcycleObsession the loosening "trick" is what I did also. Seemed to work fine. I eventually replaced the front with another OEM mount, maybe.... a year ago? This shimming I did helped the vibrations, but there definitely was even more vibration improvement with the new mount.
That mount is toast.
lol yeah it was
That mount is trashed. Did you ever buy a new one? Got mine for $99. from Dennis Kirk. Went to install it last night and the damn thing is wider in the top bracket holes. I can see where one side of rivets are too tight causing top to bow out. Now I have to return it and wait another week for a new one. Might wanna check for this issue when opening box before removing old one like I did. Hope this helps someone avoid the headache.
ya im not a fan of d/k their return policy sucks, got a set of bars from them found out couldnt use them they were stil wrapped up they stil charged restock fee. i dont plan on useing those guys again.
I had the same issue and i used c-clamps so I can screw the nut in..
I sure did!
I see so many not following the the manual and its crazy not to. It specifically says if engine vibrations increase to do motor mount alignment procedure. And what do you know? it fixes the excessive vibrations. No need to shim or do anything else. Buy a manual. Use it. Have less troubles fixing or working on your bike.
Some say to tighten front and back , Isolators , really nice and snug ! Then start engine and only let it idle , for a couple minutes ! To let it settle into place ! Then finish torque !
That's what mine looked like, put a new motor mount in the other day, front and rear and also Sputhe Engine Stabilizers kit. It needs to be replaced, trust me. I was able to rip it apart by hand after I replaced it. Mines actually looked worse, and my 2016 FXDLS only has 10k
I eventually replaced it. I haven't done the rear yet. Thinking about doing the stabilizers though. I still have the scoot and ride often.
piss poor harley design?
I have a 04 fxdl bought it last year with only 5000 its mint. I broke front isolater before i hit 6000 now bike is dangerous to ride woble like u read about. Replace all with high performance oil resistant polyurethane. Stabilizer too if u can afford. Life or death man dont fuck around
Harleys have too much torque for rubber mounts. If u ride like an old man they last 30000. But if u actually ride your bike like u want to u need to upgrade
not sure spacers is a good idea. When you were installing the mount, it looked like it was actually shifted a bit to the right. Just enough to cause bold not to go in by hand to start. How's it running?
I did this video about 14,000 miles ago. I've rode to Sturgis from San Diego and back, multiple trips to Yuma and Phoenix (from San Diego) and I ride in Texas now, a lot. Seems to still help with vibrations. I check it each oil change I do. Still looking at the Predator VCS though.
Hi, did adding the washers reduced the vibration?
Well, better late than never...
Yes, it helped with the vibration. I still want to upgrade the mount though. The mod doesn't eliminate it completely.
That moint is collasped!! That's why it doesn't line up. Put a new moint on it and remove those washers. THEY DONT BELONG IN THERE!!!
I just replaced my front motor mount. There was still a gap with a brand new mount.
Nah, the design is also trash.
Dynes motor Mount design is junk!!!
Never shim your front Engine Isolator....! It is designed to "Pull" on your engine. Without this tension the engine and drive-train will move back and cause more stress on the rear Isolator. Trust me. Bad idea.
DYNATRASH Thanks for the input!
It’s deteriorating, change it!
I'm curious if you checked, or re tighten your belt drive?
Hi! Sorry for the late reply. Since this? Yes. When I did the shimming? Nah. Ran just fine. Still does, even with the stock belt.