TDA2050 audio amplifier IC test & review plus compared to the LM1875
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ต.ค. 2017
- I made a video about the TDA2050 a few years back but wanted to test it now that I have better equipment and compare it to the LM1875. Which one is the better chip? Watch and find out.
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Hey guys! A couple points I didn't mention in the video: The TDA2050 seems to be more prone to instability so needs careful layout and component selection. Its current limit tends to make a loud pop sound when activated while driving reactive loads. The LM1875 has the advantage in both cases. I plan to test these issues and make a video.
i bought the same lm1875 kit from ebay the amp makes a click sound when turned on/off. does it happen with your kit too?
thanks
Bharat Singh my lm1875t deadly silent, try better component. I use film and mica for smaller caps value, fc for feedback, fm for power and elna for psu. Elna re3 might be slightly cheaper for power filtering, i only use what i have at hand.
Elna re3 work well for tda series, i notice significant improvement for tda series. Confirmed by blind testing with my friend compared to several others including fc series.
@@wiradharma7030 are you getting good quality ics of Tda2050 ?
I'm getting some cheap versions here in India so I want to know that how much maximum voltage can it sustain since Tda2030,2050 are all obsolete now but still I want to make an amplifier for home use so please tell me about the max operating voltage
@@amitghosh6966 Once i didnt realize that i use 27++vdc unregulated on 4ohm load without problem other than the heatsink got slightly warmer. BTW, I tend to use bigger heatsink than I should.
I got most of the chip and transistor online from inline seller with higher rating. The parts I got from local store has questionable quality, I stop buying critical parts from them since like 2 years ago. I only buy non critical parts from local store like resistors for psu and emmiter, jack & cables, screws and similar non critical item.
So far l never have failing chip even when I use them on higher than rated voltage. I think almost all tda2050 chip out there is not genuine anyway, but some replica seems to perform better than others. The issues that I got currently is on lm1875 which at lower wattage got slightly warmer even on bigger heatsink, much hotter than tda2050. My latest project is 3x lm1875 in parallel, I use similar sized heatsink with lm3886 @26.5v 4ohm -62Wrms output. The lm1875s run very hot @24v.
Btw, try lm317/337 with 2x tip41/42c for supply. I use 20k trimpot for voltage adjustment on 25v AC. Its cheap(less than $10) and u ll got noticeable improvement on any amps compared to unregulated supply. I made mine with point to point method, ugly but its works.
@@wiradharma7030 thanks for the reply. I love making amplifier circuits so I keep asking everyone about anything about amplifiers
Hi John. I just wanted to let you know how much we appreciate the time and effort you put into doing comparisons like this. It is really very valuable information!
Thanks!
I'm sold on the LM1875 chips after this. Thanks once again, John. Much appreciated.
Good Video John & GREAT music. Haven't heard Maddy's voice for ages.Loved Steeleye Span when growing up. Thanks for posting.
Great video and analysis!! 👍👍 Thanks for the time and sharing! much appreciated!
I have no idea about electronics (but something is seeping in) but I find John's vids very watchable. He's got a great presenting style that draws you in. Loving it.... I may go out and buy an 'electronics starter-kit'!
LOL,,, Love the fight it out ending,, Great video John.
Good taste in music - and thanks for another very informative video
Thanks for the Video John i actually have a whole drawer full of 2050's and 2030's so to answer your question yes i appreciate all the data measurements and results you have here
These used to be my favourite to build back in the 1990s
Like to see a video of the mixing box. Was doing a Bluetooth project a month or two ago and really needed a way to get stereo to mono and still sound good.
Thumbs up for chips fighting it out at the end.
Could you do a video that covers Class A amplifiers? how they work and why there are sonical benefits over other types (if there are any), maybe build a simple circuit? since I usually play music at low levels I'm really interested in these better quality low power amps, might interest others too. anyway, thanks for your work love the channel
Whats your source signal approx. amplitude (after your pre)? Thanks!
Another thing that can be done to assist stability is to increase the value of the resistor going to signal ground through the series capacitor, which is there to shunt some of the negative feedback. Choose a value that gives only as much gain as is required.
can u please test stk sanyo ics i would like to know how they will perform on ur tests... tnx luv this video btw
Great little chips, I'm building a stereo home theatre based on tda2030As. Only thing I would say is PCB layout is so important, I initially designed my own but soon realised I had messed up and had to buy a kit. They do dissipate a lot of heat as well but sound great!
Jozef Sowerby i also bought pcb, i think they have better grounding structure. Less noise than point to point i usually made. Try find one with good review, i think most buying pcb known their stuffs. I only join the fray.
Hello John Audio Tech,I need help in finding the correct size mica insulators for the larger audio chip amps. I have the TO-220 style mica insulator, but it is small it seems.....a little help please......I would like to install heat sinks to some amps I have purchased but they need to be mounted to a heat sink.....I am lost ..... A little help please
Hi John, I am a recent subscriber to your channel and love your vids and the way you keep things as simple as possible in your explanations. I came across your channel because I am in the process of repairing a guitar amp that uses a TDA2050. I've diagnosed the problem down to the 2050 which I have since discovered has been discontinued. I've read the LM1875 can be used as a direct replacement but at the same time have read that this isn't always the case. At present the 2050 in my Amp is being powered by +24/-24V, I was just wondering what surrounding components I should be aware of that may need changing in order to substitute the 1875 in place of the 2050? Many thanks.
If the IC is driving an 8 ohm speaker, I'd think the 1875 would be a drop in replacement. It seems to be a stable IC where going from the 1875 to the 2050 might require some changes. Hopefully the amp used a proper sized heat sink. I've seen some amps use too small of size and the chip runs hot.
Thanks John, much appreciate the reply. I was going to buy some cheap 2050s on eBay but then I saw your other video exposing the substandard fakes from China. It woldnt be so bad if there was a seller in that part of the world who was actualy making descent 2050s. I read that Tayda electronics is suppose to be a pretty good supplier located in Thailand but they no longer stock the 2050s either.
John I have a question. How do you know if you have fake 2050s?
Hi John! I have four new and original tda2050.Can you suggest me a pcb for dual mono amp!
Iwant to make a stereo amp using two tda per channel.
Hi.. Bro nice tutor, when compare to Lm 2003 what is better
I like the way the two chips fought it out LOL hey John, how is it that your scope has spectrum analyzer, I would love to find out how you're doing that. mike
It is a feature of pretty much any digital oscilloscope. Once the signal is digitized they can apply just about any math to the data. This scope is ten year old technology on a budget. Some of the new scopes are amazing.
How did you build the other components
Really interested in the audio mix box schematic
@4:47 I see its drawing 1.27 Amp, if i have -/+18 regulated power supply . how many amp do i need from a transformer? 1.27 amp or 2.54 amp transformer?
Great data! Why do you think that the max v-out (without clipping) is so far from the supply voltage?
It isn't. In the tables, John is recording root-mean-square (rms) voltage. But the peak-to-peak (pp) voltage is 2.8 times the rms voltage. So if you look at 6:27 at the 40V supply entry, for example, you see 13Vrms, which equates to 36.4Vpp. That's about as good as you're going to get for a bipolar class AB output stage on a 40V supply.
John... I have a request.... Plzzzzzzz make a video about making class d audio amplifier... Please
OMFG YES PLEASE! Make it infinitely scalable so we can build one as big as we want :)
Please publish a video on how to select proper heatsink for audio amplifier chips like Tda2030A, 2050, lm1875 etc
I plan on discussing heat sink sizing as part of my amplifier project video series soon.
HELLO, JOHN...
I AM IN THE PROCESS OF 'ROLLING MY OWN' CAR STEREO.
Sorry for excessive capping...
Thanks for the info for our upper bass/lower mid.
I guess it's the TDA for me.
Now, SIR, would you consider doing a separate vid on converting the 5 to 1 ratio of the
LM amps
I have played hades trying to find a dedicated TDA 2050 AMP.
Thanks again, Sir, for the informative video.
God bless.
BRIAN.
Are the Tda2050 & Tda2030A chips available on Amazon of good quality ?
Can they be used on higher supply voltages say 36 Volts ?
These TDA chips were discontinued several years ago. Most of what's out there is counterfeit.
@@JohnAudioTech you said you found a source and never shared classy
John have u ever tryed higher watt amp boards off ebay like the sure line im interrested in how some of the kits off ebay do that are 200x2 up to the and 300watts x2 when they say u need a 50volt power supply does that mean u need a 50+ 0 50- or do u just add both numbers together thanks once agin john
That depends on the board. If it requires three wires for the supply then it could mean -/+ volts. Most boards I've seen are single supply. I haven't tried these higher power boards yet. They are a little pricey just to make a video for it.
If i get one of them board that are 300x2 amp kit off of ebay ill hook it up and see how it sound and then ship it to u for testing cause im curious to see if they really do the power i have never build a amp but am vary eager to learn how i just cant ever read the diagrams to do it i have great back ground in car audio but never building my own amp keep up the good work and ill watch all ur videos to catch up to try to learn how to build my own amp i know how to build the t e core power supplys out of microwaves to get the voltage for just a reg pos neg amp so if there is a home made amp i could build id be glad to have u as my teacher on doing so i could leave u my email or if u got facebook thank u agin john and cant wait to see more videos
When operating tda2050, lm1875 or any of these types of chips on Single supply or Split supply, can we get same output power at a given supply say 24 Volts single supply or +/- 12 Volts Split supply ?
Yes.
Viewers may not give the positive feedback you DO deserve. But - when compared to other YTers who do such evaluation, I can't think of any who provide such comprehensive analysis, methodically done. Remind us... do you have a PayPal donate set up? Thx.
Agree!
Agree!
Agree!
Agree!
Hi john,but both circuit diagram have different value of capacitor and resistor
Hi l like your video.. Can you show the effect of the amperes from lowest to maximum maintaining same supply voltage range on any amplifier chip you have. It will be appreciated.......
Amol mk the minimum and maximum are shown for 2, 4 and 8 ohm loads. What information do you need? To change Amps at a constant voltage you need to change speakers. I could be mistaken or misunderstood your statement. Maybe someone else will step in and correct me or provide that data that you are looking for.
Kevin Livingston i want to know, for example, amplifier needs 24 volt 5 amperes and if we gave him 24 volts 2 amperes, then how the output will be effected..... It will be results in clipping or what..... and if we gave 24 volts 10 amperes then what will happen?? Thank you for quick response... :)
Amol mk that's why I'm confused. If you give a 2ohm speaker 24 volts, it will draw 2.84 amps with LM1875. You can't keep it at 24volts and draw a different current. Unless you change to a 4ohm speaker. I think the chip also has a current limit of about 3.15 amps at 2 ohms. Here is the complete data sheet.
www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm1875.pdf
If you are new to this you want to check out Ohms Law and understand how voltage, current and resistance work in the audio circuit. This way you can get the most out of your system safely. 👍
Hi John, can a schottky diode bridge rectifier be used instead of a sillicon diode one to squeeze a couple more volts out of my transfomer? I mean 2.2v drop vs 0.8 is roughly 1.4 volts amplitude more = 1v rms more.
You could but you have to weigh the benefits vs the drawbacks. At low voltages, the extra voltage is more of an advantage than at higher supply voltages. Schottky diodes are more expensive and not as robust. Personally, I'd stick with an ordinary diode bridge.
They leak more in that application too if I remember right, so that gain in Voltage might not be fully realized along with other issues. Would be a good experiment to try it both ways and test.
You'll find that an extra 1.4V of supply equates to 0.5V rms. The difference between, say, a 30V supply and a 31.4V supply results in about 10% increase in power, which might seem like a significant difference, but is almost certainly inaudible.
@@RexxSchneider i did try it out, and the results were the same. Didn't get higher voltage at the bridge, and obviously no power gain. But with class D and BTL, voltage isn't really a problem anymore, since switchmode power supplies are way cheaper and more powerful, and the class D amps run at much higher frequencies, the voltage fluctuation doesn't even matter.
Great music taste...
Hi John, might be interesting to get a couple of rip off chips and see how they compare!
You must have read my mind! While uploading this video, I shot a comparison of a counterfeit TDA2050 vs an authentic one. It will be the next upload.
Same idea here!
I like the song 'Searching for lambs'
Is that an Eminence tweeter, can you describe your speaker? Thanks
If I recall, it is a Pioneer tweeter. The Woofer is a Goldwood brand 10". Goldwood speakers are generally unimpressive but these are good with big 2.5" (6.3cm) coil and a low Qts for ported boxes. I had to do a little work to get the crossover point right and pad the tweeter down since the horns are so efficient. They are good for their size but miss out on the lowest bass notes.
A couple of points:
(1) The ear is not terribly sensitive to changes of volume, and most folks would agree that you need to double the output power to make a significant difference in the perceived volume. So I really don't think that anybody can hear the difference between a maximum output of 19.22W and 21.13W. Also the spurious precision is annoying. What's the point of quoting 4 significant figures of power, when you're clearly only measuring the rms voltage to 3 significant figures?
(2) The datasheet for the LM1875 shows the typical circuit with a gain of 20 and that's what the THD graphs are based on. The TDA datasheet shows a typical circuit with a gain of 32, and although the reduction in THD may not necessarily be exactly proportional to the amount of negative feedback applied, it's usually not far off, so if you multiplied the figures for the LM1875 by 1.6, you'd see them to be rather nearer to the TDA2050 figures that you assume. The advantage that the LM1875 has comes from its open-loop gain of 90dB, compared with the 80dB of the TDA2050 - that's about a factor of 3.
TLDR: in reality, there's hardly any audible difference between the chips if you put them into identical circuits. The LM1875 is spec'd for operation with a minimum of 16V supply and the TDA2050 is spec'd down to 9V. But if you've only got a 9V supply, you might as well use an LM386 and save yourself a lot of hassle.
tda 2050 datasheet says max +-25 v dc-this is regulated or unregulated dc voltage ???
--i am using 16-0-16 v transformer after rectification,filter caps gives 22-0-22 v dc(non regulated)=44 v -which when load speaker connected surely drop voltage to 16-0-16 v on load=32 v (not measured best guess)
---so what do you think i should get a transformer which when load applied should give 50 v ?
---thank you
50v is the rated absolute max, so I'd stay back to +/- 22v (44 total). With a non regulated supply there will be sag. Using a heavier transformer will reduce the sag somewhat.
thanks
What would be the output of TDA2050 at 4 ohm load, 24V total supply?
If you mean 24v to be the total supply (+12/-12v), it would be around 12 watts.
I came into a bag of TDA2030, what do you think of them?
They're good if authentic. Not as powerful as the 2050.
I've heard you talk about the authentic TDA7050 vs conterfeit, but I never heard what to look for to verify
I made a video a couple months ago showing an authentic vs fake TDA2050.
th-cam.com/video/R2J5xrSiNrI/w-d-xo.html
The ending, lmao!
Where is Snickers, sir?
Cheers from Indonesia
NTE7169 is marked as a replacement part for TDA2050, NTE1380 for TDA2030 - I have no personal experience with NTE products and those are a little more expensive than your ebay source or LM1875.
Ha ! the fight out was funny, I played it back at X2 speed...really funny !!
it's my understanding that during, say, 1925-1950, audio amps were so primitive, speaker systems of the day were given exceptional design effort to improve their efficiency. Thus, today's paradigm is full 180. Super-cheap amps make up for inefficient speakers. Audiophiles with $$$$ can buy what us commoners can't. But us commoners CAN do DIY on speaker design to get, perhaps, better-than-commercial efficiency. Given you've proven these chips give great power and very low distortion, us DIY peeps can get the best of all worlds - clean, powerful reproduction that's affordable. Time to party and rock-on!
Commoners cannot make more efficient speakers. The efficiency is dictated by the drivers, not the parts that you can DIY (eg: speaker enclosures). From my own experience, it is exceptionally difficult to find low cost speakers with decent efficiency. Mainly because the specs don't get stated on places like Ebay, so you just have to buy blind. The worst thing is tweeters... I have bought so many in an attempt to improve clarity of numerous small speakers in my home. Most tweeters seem to be like 80db/W/1m which means that they might be fine for a huge amp, but they are inaudible at any normal power level.
John Coops: With your experience, I wager you can (or eventually, will) come close to relatively cost-effective and reasonably efficient speakers. Here on YT, one can find Joe Blow who does a DIY of modest expense, and does blind listening tests using people with seasoned ears. Often the DIY boxes win over exotic or expensive speakers. Their 'success' does not negate your struggle. If you choose commercial speakers because DIY doesn't satisfy, that's up to you.
I agree. Yes there are certainly a lot of pitfalls to DIY and a lot of crappy results. But if one shops carefully and does a bit of research, a DIY speaker system can easily be more efficient than most name brand speakers. Mainly it is a matter of what type of enclosure you want to make. If you can accept the larger cabinet of a bass reflex or transmission line or etc., you can DIY a very efficient speaker. If you need to go small your going to have to go Air Suspension, and that can be tough to DIY and get right the first try.
In those early days, amplifier power was very expensive, so efficient loudspeakers were used. Those loudspeakers often didn't go really low, but typical recorded music back then didn't either. Enclosures were generally very large, to match the loudspeaker parameters. When stereo came along, too many people would not tolerate two very large boxes in the room. This is the time when Ed Villchur ( of AR) along with Henry Kloss, developed the acoustic suspension woofer. This allowed low bass in a very compact box, far smaller then the usual loudspeakers that preceded them. The trade off was much lower efficiency. But power was getting cheaper, and this became an acceptable trade for most people. Efficiency is determined by the loudspeaker drivers. You can still get high efficiency drivers. They are used in commercial sound systems all the time, but the need for large boxes remain, so most home systems dont use them.
It wasn't my intention to stir up a hornet's nest... For the curious, here's a brief overview of "100 years of cinema loudspeakers", the design evolution of which likely had impact on what would become commercial home audio (www.filmsound.org/articles/amps/loudspeakers.htm). Here's a search-result showing loudspeaker photos - some of which appear to be designed by extraterrestrials... duckduckgo.com/?q=loudspeaker+designs&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images
Nice video, on the boring side of course and only suited for those willing to sit almost 20 minutes looking at at instrument readings and interpreting the numbers but overall a good analysis. Too bad the end was so stupidly unnecessary plus we never get to hear what your expert opinion is ("it's almost a draw for me" is not an opinion because almost means you do prefer one but did not want to share with us).
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Hi.. Bro nice tutor, when compare to Lm 2003 what is better