Thx. Some truth about the temp relationship helped. I have experimented a lot. The temp is a huge factor. Huge. If your shop cannot stay 70F+, it might take a month or more to fully cure. ;)
Extremely informative, thank you, I recently started using Epodex deep pour epoxy on some live edge tables and have had good luck with it. I agree with you, the most important thing is to find the correct tape and apply plenty of it because I did have some that leaked and it was a huge mess. What is the process you use to polish the epoxy to make it shine after you sand it?
Thank you for the kind words! I’ll be honest I haven’t spent a lot of time polishing epoxy like some people do. Most of the epoxy I’ve used in the past I tint black in color and I just apply a hard wax oil after sanding and buff it by hand until it’s a sheen that I’m happy with. I’ve seen people use powered buffers/polishers and apply additional coatings but I’ve not personally experimented with any of that before.
Thanks for the tips. I had some old pressure treated wood that I got from work. We would get machinery in on pallets and after it was removed the large pallets would be cut up and discarded. I took home some pressure treated 4x4s that were about 10 feet long. Had them for about 10 years and finally used them to make a frame for an outdoor bench swing. I used epoxy resin to fill the cracks and gouges in the wood and was pleased with the results. One disagreement with your video, I'd rather keep my shop at 67 degrees F. not 77. 🙂
That sounds like a great way to salvage that wood! Haha and fair enough about the shop temperature. I could go for a 67 degree shop right about now myself. 😂
Thank you! So far I haven’t had any issues with permanent air bubbles for the knots that I’ve filled with epoxy. I try to keep an eye on things as it dries and if I see any bubbles I hit them with a propane torch and that usually takes care of them.
Nice video, about to do my first epoxy, the tips will be helpful. Also: the shelves you have on the wall look great, although some oil could bring out the grain better ;)
Haha it’s all good. I understood what you were trying to say. I did apply some water-based poly to the shelves but oil definitely pops that grain a lot more. I appreciate the compliment though and glad you enjoyed the video! 😊
I start buy running my sander over it for a minute. That heats the epoxy up some which makes it easier for scraping it off. Then I scrape the majority of it off with a scraper. Once I have most of it removed I finish removing it with my sander and 80 grit sandpaper.
I have not tried that personally but I could see that working. Usually after I pour epoxy I leave it alone for awhile and just wait till it hardens up. But if you could work with it before it’s too hard it might be easier to remove. I’d be curious to see how that works. Might be worth testing on my next epoxy project. 😊
@@rustydogandco Wow I asked this question over a year ago. Anyway as I've done now for a little bit, I just keep sanding over the epoxy. I suppose it would be ok to cut in down with a knife since you're probably going to sand down whatever scratches you would get when the knife slips into the wood. Any method I can see really takes a nice shiny epoxy finish and dulls it really bad. I'm not sure if you can restore the shine of the epoxy if you just keep sanding with finer and finer grits. I usually go up to 220 Grit and the epoxy finish still kind of looks scratched.
I in no way insinuated that I was an expert on the subject. I simply said that when I was researching the matter I learned a lot of information that I figured I would share with anyone who might be in the same situation as I was. That’s all…thanks for watching.
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I actually used to slide these in my sleeves and pant legs to get really stubborn wrinkles free. Super handy.
Thanks, just the video I needed
Awesome!
Thx. Some truth about the temp relationship helped. I have experimented a lot. The temp is a huge factor. Huge. If your shop cannot stay 70F+, it might take a month or more to fully cure. ;)
Yes it is! Experimenting is the best way to learn with epoxy sometimes. So many variables.
Very informative tutorial
You did a great job
Consider opening a woodworking school!
you’re the best
thank you
Thank you for the kind words John! I’m so glad you enjoyed the video. 😊
Extremely informative, thank you, I recently started using Epodex deep pour epoxy on some live edge tables and have had good luck with it. I agree with you, the most important thing is to find the correct tape and apply plenty of it because I did have some that leaked and it was a huge mess. What is the process you use to polish the epoxy to make it shine after you sand it?
Thank you for the kind words! I’ll be honest I haven’t spent a lot of time polishing epoxy like some people do. Most of the epoxy I’ve used in the past I tint black in color and I just apply a hard wax oil after sanding and buff it by hand until it’s a sheen that I’m happy with. I’ve seen people use powered buffers/polishers and apply additional coatings but I’ve not personally experimented with any of that before.
@@rustydogandco Your welcome..😀
Thanks for the tips. I had some old pressure treated wood that I got from work. We would get machinery in on pallets and after it was removed the large pallets would be cut up and discarded. I took home some pressure treated 4x4s that were about 10 feet long. Had them for about 10 years and finally used them to make a frame for an outdoor bench swing. I used epoxy resin to fill the cracks and gouges in the wood and was pleased with the results. One disagreement with your video, I'd rather keep my shop at 67 degrees F. not 77. 🙂
That sounds like a great way to salvage that wood! Haha and fair enough about the shop temperature. I could go for a 67 degree shop right about now myself. 😂
Great video. Any issues with air bubbles?
Thank you! So far I haven’t had any issues with permanent air bubbles for the knots that I’ve filled with epoxy. I try to keep an eye on things as it dries and if I see any bubbles I hit them with a propane torch and that usually takes care of them.
What is the name of the adhesive tape to prevent leakage from the bottom?
Tyvek Tape or Tuck Tape are two brands I have used. It’s basically just sheathing tape they use for wrapping houses during construction.
@@rustydogandco thanks
Nice video, about to do my first epoxy, the tips will be helpful. Also: the shelves you have on the wall look great, although some oil could bring out the grain better ;)
Thanks so much! 😊
@@rustydogandco i re-read my message this morning and noticed it could be read in a seriously dodgy way 😳 so I thought I'd better edit it.
Haha it’s all good. I understood what you were trying to say. I did apply some water-based poly to the shelves but oil definitely pops that grain a lot more. I appreciate the compliment though and glad you enjoyed the video! 😊
What do you use to remove the excess epoxy?
I start buy running my sander over it for a minute. That heats the epoxy up some which makes it easier for scraping it off. Then I scrape the majority of it off with a scraper. Once I have most of it removed I finish removing it with my sander and 80 grit sandpaper.
I’ve heard about using a box cutter blade or similar to slice off the excess when the resin is just beginning to harden. Any comments?
@@rustydogandcohave you tried using a box cutter blade or similar to slice off the excess just as the resin is beginning to harden?.
I have not tried that personally but I could see that working. Usually after I pour epoxy I leave it alone for awhile and just wait till it hardens up. But if you could work with it before it’s too hard it might be easier to remove. I’d be curious to see how that works. Might be worth testing on my next epoxy project. 😊
@@rustydogandco Wow I asked this question over a year ago. Anyway as I've done now for a little bit, I just keep sanding over the epoxy. I suppose it would be ok to cut in down with a knife since you're probably going to sand down whatever scratches you would get when the knife slips into the wood. Any method I can see really takes a nice shiny epoxy finish and dulls it really bad. I'm not sure if you can restore the shine of the epoxy if you just keep sanding with finer and finer grits. I usually go up to 220 Grit and the epoxy finish still kind of looks scratched.
Caution: Messes Likley To Happen
Good video. But really… if you have only done one project with epoxy….
I in no way insinuated that I was an expert on the subject. I simply said that when I was researching the matter I learned a lot of information that I figured I would share with anyone who might be in the same situation as I was. That’s all…thanks for watching.