My grandfather had a bunch of baby food jars of varnish mixed with different sawdust types. I've done the same with, yup, BLO. My go to with knots is the charcoal dust in the bottom of the bag and just enough 5 minute epoxy to coat it. I still have a small amount of the massive maple burl I harvested some 25 years ago and the epoxy and charcoal has been a project saver many times.
I have used resin and CA glue. But the one I use the most is wood glue mixed with saw dust from the same work piece. This is the best colour match but doesn't always look the best with a finish. I've also seen the glue stick one used where they have a big metal block to flatten it and cool it down faster.
I tend to ask "is it going to be painted or stained?" On painted items I either use CA and baking soda or wood filler. On stained it depends on the void size. I like the voids for character.. but once again it depends on the intended use of the build.
I work with a lot of hard woods and don't have access to any of these products, so basically after sanding I would use the fine sawdust of that wood and mix with wood glue, and if done well, you won't even notice the fill.
Excited to try the hot glue option! Seems like a great fix for medium size holes and cracks. But, for this project (bookcase dividers) filling seems unnecessary now that you mention it. Thanks!!
Love the idea of hot glue. I hadn't heard of that one. You didn't cover my go-to: rubbing sawdust into the yellow glue. And then there's the 'cut out the problem area and glue in new, uncracked wood' method.
I have used colored wax that I melt into the void. You can buy them in colors that are supposed to match the species of timber. I imagine the colored hot glue is just a modern adaptation of the wax.
I had a quick look and it seems nobody else mentioned them, I think for a superior intermediate filler material you should look at shellac filler sticks and/or hard wax filler sticks (much harder than the crayon-like ones that you can sort of rub in after finishing). HIH!
I just finished a project where I used epoxy for fill. I used a file to smooth. The question I have which option would you use to fill voids in elected officials. These would be very big voids. Good show. Be safe.
Thanks for the tips, James. I saved the hot glue sticks in my wish list. That's a good idea. I like using CA glue but no matter how careful I am using it or cleaning up afterward, my tips always dry hard as a rock and the rest of the bottle is useless. Or while I am trying to unclog the dried tips, I knock over the bottle. And those tips always leak and leak. It absolutely ruins my language. So I tend to use it in the smallest tubes I can possibly find so I waste less. And if it dries hard, I don't feel as bad about throwing it away as I do those big bottles with all the extra tips and tops. Can't wait to try the hot glue.
One thing you need to make sure to do is keep the sticks stored in a sealed bag. Something about them staying in open air for a long time and then getting heated somehow makes them more likely to create bubbles. You can stick the whole glue gun in a ziploc bag. I will say between trying knottec and Rangate I liked the Rangate sticks better. The material is higher quality and it cuts even cleaner, but it is more expensive than the knottec. I’d also use a chisel to remove the excess. Both companies offer a wide flat blade.
Nice breakdown showing there's not a single good solution. We are getting ready to mill hickory to create a floor. I've sent a question to Totalboat but yet to recurve an answer. Would you use this particular TB product to fill in knots for a kitchen floor?
Thanks for the verrry helpful vid, James. Lots of good tips and tricks. But I wanted to ask you: I notice that you always use small plastic cups with the epoxy. Do you just throw away the cup or can it be re-used? Also, are paper cups with epoxy out of the question? Thanks a lot, you’re the best.
Paper cups can work. Just make sure they're not waxed. The wax can interfere with the epoxy. The problem with a paper cup is if you mix too much and you get a runaway reaction, the paper cup can catch on fire with the plastic cups I can use. Usually use them a couple times but it all depends on how much epoxy is left in the bottom of the time.
My only concern with the hot glue is if you use it on something you plan to use finish on, does it take it, or does it eat at or weaken the glue. I use a lot of rub on poly finishes that I make up myself or I'll use Arm R Seal.
Thanks for the tips. I would like to know though. I have an old workbench where the top was eaten by bugs long ago, was wondering what to fill them with since I do need to plain the top as well. How well does Superglue plain? For a moment I even imagined to use the hard beeswaxes
Have you seen the video similar to this? Yeah it was made by this guy Phil Mycrackin... lord I miss the days of the Simpsons. Thanks for the great content as always!
All my workshop wood is just filled with paste wax. Heck, my bench has a giant knot in one area that doesn't impact my work, just left it for some character since a hard filler will just mess with my work. (It fills with sawdust lol.)
@2min, Lady Sarah says that a lot, 'the problem is you'! How do the different fills re-act to the different finishes, do the hot glue and epoxy stand-up to BLO and Rubio?
(at the therapist) Me- Doc I have a fear of large empty spaces! Doc- A void? Me- That's good advice, thanks Doc. Going to try the hot glue thing next time, even though the leave it alone things sounds like less work. LOL.
Sometimes when I use CA glue to fill voids and then hit it with activator, it turns white and cloudy. Any idea what causes that, James? Did I use it in a void that was too large for CA glue? Old glue? Shop gremlins?
It does not take a lot of activator to work. I also prefer the activator in a spray can rather than a pump spray. Spray can is a finer mist therefore you use less.
ive experimented with finishing with ca loads and on one guitar body i had a good 2-3 layers, switched brands as i ran out and it went white and cloudy and an overall mess so on that occasion i blamed the brand but i did it another time and there was a lot of moisture in the room, moisture cures ca glue really fast and ugly so if your still having no luck try checking the humidity level of your workspace
Good thought! Should sand and scrape _a lot_ better than even that firmer hot-melt stuff. What kind of colour range is available, I presume black is a given?
@@tungsten_carbide Black is common, although you can cheaply get color sample packs of 1.75mm filament used by most 3D pens (and printers). There's even filament with wood already incorporated.
Awesome tips, James! Thanks! 😃 You just forgot about wood glue and wood dust. In some cases it does wonders! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
As a teacher and father I often just stare into the void after a long day. Does a lot for my mental health but I've yet to find a way to use the technique for filling voids. 😳 🕳️
Greetings from Australia Good tips. I will use them in my builds thanks. I have subscribed to your channel and will be watching your videos. Regards James One Handed Maker
In Britain, they have a problem with Wood Worm. I had never heard of it until I started watching The Repair Shop. I had only seen the empty holes until one episode showed the living bugs. Disgusting looking. To get rid of them, they send the wood away to get fumigated. The tunnels are actually interlined. Inject filler in one hole it comes out others. Ugh.
Why only these three methods? You can also (1) remove a knot using a forstner bit and fill it up with a wooden disk and (2) use a mixture of woodglue and sawdust to fill holes.
"and sometimes the problem is you"....that one hitted hard
My grandfather had a bunch of baby food jars of varnish mixed with different sawdust types. I've done the same with, yup, BLO. My go to with knots is the charcoal dust in the bottom of the bag and just enough 5 minute epoxy to coat it. I still have a small amount of the massive maple burl I harvested some 25 years ago and the epoxy and charcoal has been a project saver many times.
I have used resin and CA glue. But the one I use the most is wood glue mixed with saw dust from the same work piece. This is the best colour match but doesn't always look the best with a finish.
I've also seen the glue stick one used where they have a big metal block to flatten it and cool it down faster.
Other videos show ca glue used on cotton balls to build up deep holes. Then I guess you could finish with black ca glue for the last top layer(?).
As usual I see you stick to it and do a fine job
I’ve used Timbermate, seems to work quite well, reversible if needed.
Yell was my favourite method you showed!
I tend to ask "is it going to be painted or stained?" On painted items I either use CA and baking soda or wood filler. On stained it depends on the void size. I like the voids for character.. but once again it depends on the intended use of the build.
I work with a lot of hard woods and don't have access to any of these products, so basically after sanding I would use the fine sawdust of that wood and mix with wood glue, and if done well, you won't even notice the fill.
Excited to try the hot glue option! Seems like a great fix for medium size holes and cracks. But, for this project (bookcase dividers) filling seems unnecessary now that you mention it. Thanks!!
How well do this three options take various finishes including, of course BLO and paste wax?
Love the idea of hot glue. I hadn't heard of that one. You didn't cover my go-to: rubbing sawdust into the yellow glue. And then there's the 'cut out the problem area and glue in new, uncracked wood' method.
I've never been a good fan of using sawdust to fill in. It usually just screams tacky in my book. But a lot of people love that one.
Always great information, never thought about the hot glue. I use CA glue, and epoxy most.
I have used colored wax that I melt into the void. You can buy them in colors that are supposed to match the species of timber. I imagine the colored hot glue is just a modern adaptation of the wax.
I thought you would include coffee grounds mixed with CA glue. I use that a lot on turning projects.
Man, I toss those away daily, I should really dry up a little bit
I had a quick look and it seems nobody else mentioned them, I think for a superior intermediate filler material you should look at shellac filler sticks and/or hard wax filler sticks (much harder than the crayon-like ones that you can sort of rub in after finishing). HIH!
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Good job. Colored glue sticks, interesting. Thanks
I just finished a project where I used epoxy for fill. I used a file to smooth. The question I have which option would you use to fill voids in elected officials. These would be very big voids. Good show. Be safe.
I've used a black marker and super glue to turn a knot whole into a feature.
Thanks James, as always, great advice
My go to is epoxy with a drop of transtint. Must begin planing before it gets fully hard!
Thanks for the tips, James. I saved the hot glue sticks in my wish list. That's a good idea. I like using CA glue but no matter how careful I am using it or cleaning up afterward, my tips always dry hard as a rock and the rest of the bottle is useless. Or while I am trying to unclog the dried tips, I knock over the bottle. And those tips always leak and leak. It absolutely ruins my language. So I tend to use it in the smallest tubes I can possibly find so I waste less. And if it dries hard, I don't feel as bad about throwing it away as I do those big bottles with all the extra tips and tops. Can't wait to try the hot glue.
One thing you need to make sure to do is keep the sticks stored in a sealed bag. Something about them staying in open air for a long time and then getting heated somehow makes them more likely to create bubbles. You can stick the whole glue gun in a ziploc bag. I will say between trying knottec and Rangate I liked the Rangate sticks better. The material is higher quality and it cuts even cleaner, but it is more expensive than the knottec. I’d also use a chisel to remove the excess. Both companies offer a wide flat blade.
@@typeafurniture Have you by any chance compared to other melt-in filler materials, especially the traditional shellac filler sticks?
@@tungsten_carbide I have not, just knottec and Rangate
What about wood filler? I’ve found that to work particularly well on bug holes.
Nice breakdown showing there's not a single good solution.
We are getting ready to mill hickory to create a floor. I've sent a question to Totalboat but yet to recurve an answer. Would you use this particular TB product to fill in knots for a kitchen floor?
I used their high performance to fill the knots in my kitchen floor at my last house. You can mix a die in with it very easily.
Thanks for the quick response. In your video I noticed that you had the medium hardener. Is that the same one you also used on your floor
sometimes I use the fast when I know I will have to do a second coat. but for most things I use medium
James Starbond makes colored CA glue and I use it a lot. Black and brown ar the two I am aware of
Thanks for the verrry helpful vid, James. Lots of good tips and tricks. But I wanted to ask you: I notice that you always use small plastic cups with the epoxy. Do you just throw away the cup or can it be re-used? Also, are paper cups with epoxy out of the question? Thanks a lot, you’re the best.
Paper cups can work. Just make sure they're not waxed. The wax can interfere with the epoxy. The problem with a paper cup is if you mix too much and you get a runaway reaction, the paper cup can catch on fire with the plastic cups I can use. Usually use them a couple times but it all depends on how much epoxy is left in the bottom of the time.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks, James, that’s very helpful!
I've been a void ing this topic but you made me watch it!
So what you're really saying, is that those cracks are knot a problem?
My only concern with the hot glue is if you use it on something you plan to use finish on, does it take it, or does it eat at or weaken the glue. I use a lot of rub on poly finishes that I make up myself or I'll use Arm R Seal.
With finish it is about the same for all three.
filled my knowledge void
Hot glue in the man cave? Do I have to share with the Mrs?
Awesome video! Loved it!
Thanks for the tips.
I would like to know though. I have an old workbench where the top was eaten by bugs long ago, was wondering what to fill them with since I do need to plain the top as well. How well does Superglue plain?
For a moment I even imagined to use the hard beeswaxes
Can't tell you how it planes but it is very brittle for sure.
@@dwightl5863 hmmm epoxyor hard wax it is then!
I tried phenolic resin, but its too thick and shrinks too much to fill such gaps well.
Have you seen the video similar to this? Yeah it was made by this guy Phil Mycrackin... lord I miss the days of the Simpsons. Thanks for the great content as always!
Shit, i made a comment with that name before i seen yours. You beat me to it. Oh well, im not deleting my comment 🤣
How about hot wax sticks. Been used for decades.
All my workshop wood is just filled with paste wax. Heck, my bench has a giant knot in one area that doesn't impact my work, just left it for some character since a hard filler will just mess with my work. (It fills with sawdust lol.)
Pour some shellac on the sawdust.
I am using ca glue+ accelerator, simple woodworking glue with mixing it with saw dust and epoxy which i also mixing it with fine saw dust.
What do you fill with when the void is big enough to echo back your yell to you?
@2min, Lady Sarah says that a lot, 'the problem is you'!
How do the different fills re-act to the different finishes, do the hot glue and epoxy stand-up to BLO and Rubio?
They are all about the same.
Good stuff, thanks!
(at the therapist) Me- Doc I have a fear of large empty spaces! Doc- A void? Me- That's good advice, thanks Doc. Going to try the hot glue thing next time, even though the leave it alone things sounds like less work. LOL.
Good info thanks
Right now it’s hardwood dowels and wood glue with sawdust. But only for my giganto-knot holes
Sometimes when I use CA glue to fill voids and then hit it with activator, it turns white and cloudy. Any idea what causes that, James? Did I use it in a void that was too large for CA glue? Old glue? Shop gremlins?
When ie cures too quickly it creates a lot of micro bubbles. So if you want in cleaner just let it set for a while till it is hard.
It does not take a lot of activator to work. I also prefer the activator in a spray can rather than a pump spray. Spray can is a finer mist therefore you use less.
ive experimented with finishing with ca loads and on one guitar body i had a good 2-3 layers, switched brands as i ran out and it went white and cloudy and an overall mess so on that occasion i blamed the brand but i did it another time and there was a lot of moisture in the room, moisture cures ca glue really fast and ugly so if your still having no luck try checking the humidity level of your workspace
How does the 2P10 CA glue compare to “thin” Starbond CA glue?
Same thing.
Interesting video. Would like to see a video on glue guns. Thanks.
The link of ca and super glue are wrong. Need to swap
Now I'm curious if a 3D Pen can be used to fill voids. ABS sands really well...
Good thought! Should sand and scrape _a lot_ better than even that firmer hot-melt stuff. What kind of colour range is available, I presume black is a given?
@@tungsten_carbide Black is common, although you can cheaply get color sample packs of 1.75mm filament used by most 3D pens (and printers). There's even filament with wood already incorporated.
@@socketwench Thanks for the details!
Awesome tips, James! Thanks! 😃
You just forgot about wood glue and wood dust. In some cases it does wonders!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
You forgot melting wax sticks!
Comment down below!
As a teacher and father I often just stare into the void after a long day. Does a lot for my mental health but I've yet to find a way to use the technique for filling voids. 😳 🕳️
Greetings from Australia
Good tips. I will use them in my builds thanks.
I have subscribed to your channel and will be watching your videos.
Regards James
One Handed Maker
In Britain, they have a problem with Wood Worm. I had never heard of it until I started watching The Repair Shop. I had only seen the empty holes until one episode showed the living bugs. Disgusting looking. To get rid of them, they send the wood away to get fumigated. The tunnels are actually interlined. Inject filler in one hole it comes out others. Ugh.
Why only these three methods? You can also (1) remove a knot using a forstner bit and fill it up with a wooden disk and (2) use a mixture of woodglue and sawdust to fill holes.
There are a lot of other methods. These are just the three that I use regularly. It's very rare that I end up using something else.
Why not mix wood glue and sawdust
I have never found that to look good. it always just looks like you are trying to hide it. I did a test on that a wile ago comparing a few methods.
Good old fashioned wood glue and sawdust. Titebond 1/original is great for this, as it's very hard and dries quickly - although it's a bit yellow.
I just mix up sawdust and glue for most smaller gaps where it works, but for larger ones epoxy is the way to go.
Don't use gorilla clear
Bondo and wood putty are two more options.
Nice lol
I tend to use fine sawdust and ca glue.
Hi, I'm Phil McRackin and this video really offended me....
You forgot wood glue with sawdust
Old fix… Glue and Saw Dust!
I wouldnt use any modern glues as traditional hand tool wood workers would not have had access to any of them.
That is what makes the sport so much fun. There are a thousand ways to skin a cat!
Hot glue man 🙄🙄🙄