Beautiful shoes and I love the medallion. I know Vass is probably in your tier-2, but I would love to see the comparison. Thanks for introducing us to your fantastic collection.
They are pricey at 1400 euros but they are a way better buy than the goodyear welted shoes that you've bought for similar prices. At sale price, they are heads and shoulders above any machine produced shoes at similar price points. Those G&Gs really don't belong in the same class. No amount of stitch density will save you from weaker construction. Construction >>>> nearly everything other than fit.
found that at this level, it's really more about fit than finish (high arch here 👋) toured the Bemer during Pitti, the entry-level line will be discontinued, if it hasn't already because they are selling more of their mainline "so why bother continue making them" gotta love how well they are made, and their leather selection is terrific, now that it's been a while, how would you compare the comfort between the Bemer and Scafora ?
Hello your videos are great, keep up the great work! Had a question you could help me with, im buying a pair of shoes but cannot decide which one of these 3 makers is better! Yeossal, antonio meccariello or oct.tenth. which one would you rate 1, 2,3. Thanks your help means alot, ron.
Hey Ron. If you’re looking at AM Handwelted it’s no question he’s in the lead. He had access to leathers Ive never seen at other makers and does fantastic work. His GYW shoes are good too, but comparing to these two handwelted makers I’d limit the GYW to his Argentum RTw or MTO shoes. He uses thinner insoles on his Aeris line. I rate the comfort of his Argentum RTW as high as my other handwelted brands. I don’t have his handwelted shoes yet. They’re coming. Yeossal and Oct Tenth are very close and rumor has it that they share a workforce and premises. The review I did on the Oct Tenth and the Yeossal compared each other. I would rate the Yeossal higher because they don’t have a padded sock liner. That’s personal preference. I like the choices a little better with Oct tenth but you can sometimes find stock at Yeossal which is always always always better than waiting. Service from both has been phenomenal. Website at Yeossal is easiest of all three. I’ve always had trouble with AM but being persistent pays off. Hope that helps.
From my point of view, it depends how you define a tier 1or tier 2 shoe. There are so many components and hidden details that determine shoe quality, that I think too many general aspects and terms are used in the shoe community to say a shoe is tier 1 or tier 2. I also think that many times people use the wrong indicators that they believe are a signs of quality but in realty they are not. However, when it comes to the feel, when you wear a shoe, there is no big difference between a good tier 2 and a tier 1 shoe. You pay a lot for details that won't make a big difference, when wearing a shoe in terms of feel but effect, how long they last and how well they can be repaired plus the look of the shoe. However, often those quality aspects do not really matter, cause for most people, it is enough, when a shoe last 10 years and a good tier 2 will do that easily. Therefore, I think it mainly comes down to the look of the shoe, where you can notice a difference. Concerning Stefano Bemer. When I went to Stefano Bemer in Florence, I tried many of their shoes and I could inspect their shoes closely. I think their essenziale collection and classica collection are completely overpriced. The only collection that I think that is worth the price in todays market, is the tradizione collection. Concerning the leather, details, finishing and construction quality, I would say that the essenziale collection is similar to a Carmina shoe or Crockett and Jones standard line. Only difference a Crockett and Jones Standard line does not offer a closed channel stitching on the sole. For the classica collection, I would not pay more than 800-900 Dollars. I was not impressed with their shoes for that price of around 1500. The Stefano Bemer classica collection shoes are not tier 1 shoes for me, it is an overpriced tier 2 shoe. Something you should know, the shoemakers in Florence, especially bespoke makers raised their prices enormously in the last 10 years. 10 years ago you could purchase bespoke shoes with a fantastic quality for around 2 to 2.5K, now they ask almost twice that, with no difference in quality. With some makers offering a lower quality than 10 years ago.
@@tjjohnson6772 There is nothing wrong with the Crockett and Jones standard line, I think they have pretty refined lasts and the quality is decent. With church's I would avoid their book binding leather shoes, apart from that I never owned one and can't say how well they hold up over time. With Carlos Santos, I only saw their Handgrade line and those were built and finished in a nice way. Since you asked for 3 shoemaker under 800 Dollar. Personally, I don't look at the regular price, cause some that I suggest might be above that, however they offer shoes on sale and the sale price would fit the price point or even be below 800. The 3 companies offer great shoes but all in different styles, since I don't know what aesthetic you prefer and to make it a bit more interesting. My second criteria was accessibility. My first company that I recommend that offers great shoes in an elegant style is J.M. Weston. Some great models currently on sale. The second company is Santoni but I need to be specific, the Goodyear welted models and only those unless you like sneakers those are also great. Santoni is more flamboyant but the Goodyear welted models are well constructed with nice crust leathers and partially beautiful patinas. My third company is Heinrich Dinkelacker, more chunky last but well built for their price point and unique. I hope that helps
Watch my review tonight of my John Lobb drift. While the Bemer is at least handwelted, I do agree with a lot of this. It’s hard to tell because it’s hard to get vocalou calf on other brands, but the leather premium alone doesn’t justify 1400 bucks here (or on others). Many gentlemen question if a gyw shoe CAN command that price fairly but I do think it can, especially since you can order a cemented St Crispins.
Beautiful shoes and I love the medallion. I know Vass is probably in your tier-2, but I would love to see the comparison. Thanks for introducing us to your fantastic collection.
They are pricey at 1400 euros but they are a way better buy than the goodyear welted shoes that you've bought for similar prices. At sale price, they are heads and shoulders above any machine produced shoes at similar price points. Those G&Gs really don't belong in the same class. No amount of stitch density will save you from weaker construction.
Construction >>>> nearly everything other than fit.
Great video, informative and well done.
found that at this level, it's really more about fit than finish (high arch here 👋)
toured the Bemer during Pitti, the entry-level line will be discontinued, if it hasn't already because they are selling more of their mainline "so why bother continue making them"
gotta love how well they are made, and their leather selection is terrific, now that it's been a while, how would you compare the comfort between the Bemer and Scafora ?
The two wingtip oxfords were comparable comfort wise.
Waiting for a pair of Freccia Bestetti unboxing, btw they have a beautiful Adelaide called the Maverick, respects my friend.
If only they were available.
@@wishoeguy they are
I’ve checked the web, the store is shut down and no retailers carry them except old stock. Where are they available?
Hello your videos are great, keep up the great work! Had a question you could help me with, im buying a pair of shoes but cannot decide which one of these 3 makers is better! Yeossal, antonio meccariello or oct.tenth. which one would you rate 1, 2,3. Thanks your help means alot, ron.
Hey Ron. If you’re looking at AM Handwelted it’s no question he’s in the lead. He had access to leathers Ive never seen at other makers and does fantastic work. His GYW shoes are good too, but comparing to these two handwelted makers I’d limit the GYW to his Argentum RTw or MTO shoes. He uses thinner insoles on his Aeris line. I rate the comfort of his Argentum RTW as high as my other handwelted brands. I don’t have his handwelted shoes yet. They’re coming. Yeossal and Oct Tenth are very close and rumor has it that they share a workforce and premises. The review I did on the Oct Tenth and the Yeossal compared each other. I would rate the Yeossal higher because they don’t have a padded sock liner. That’s personal preference. I like the choices a little better with Oct tenth but you can sometimes find stock at Yeossal which is always always always better than waiting. Service from both has been phenomenal. Website at Yeossal is easiest of all three. I’ve always had trouble with AM but being persistent pays off. Hope that helps.
@@wishoeguy thank you this really helps!
Those Bemer's are a lot of dough. Is paying the extra cash for tier 1 shoes worth it, given that you can get soo much value at tier 2 or even 3?
From my point of view, it depends how you define a tier 1or tier 2 shoe. There are so many components and hidden details that determine shoe quality, that I think too many general aspects and terms are used in the shoe community to say a shoe is tier 1 or tier 2. I also think that many times people use the wrong indicators that they believe are a signs of quality but in realty they are not.
However, when it comes to the feel, when you wear a shoe, there is no big difference between a good tier 2 and a tier 1 shoe.
You pay a lot for details that won't make a big difference, when wearing a shoe in terms of feel but effect, how long they last and how well they can be repaired plus the look of the shoe. However, often those quality aspects do not really matter, cause for most people, it is enough, when a shoe last 10 years and a good tier 2 will do that easily. Therefore, I think it mainly comes down to the look of the shoe, where you can notice a difference.
Concerning Stefano Bemer. When I went to Stefano Bemer in Florence, I tried many of their shoes and I could inspect their shoes closely. I think their essenziale collection and classica collection are completely overpriced. The only collection that I think that is worth the price in todays market, is the tradizione collection. Concerning the leather, details, finishing and construction quality, I would say that the essenziale collection is similar to a Carmina shoe or Crockett and Jones standard line. Only difference a Crockett and Jones Standard line does not offer a closed channel stitching on the sole. For the classica collection, I would not pay more than 800-900 Dollars. I was not impressed with their shoes for that price of around 1500. The Stefano Bemer classica collection shoes are not tier 1 shoes for me, it is an overpriced tier 2 shoe.
Something you should know, the shoemakers in Florence, especially bespoke makers raised their prices enormously in the last 10 years. 10 years ago you could purchase bespoke shoes with a fantastic quality for around 2 to 2.5K, now they ask almost twice that, with no difference in quality. With some makers offering a lower quality than 10 years ago.
Thanks for the detailed comment. Food for thought.
@@tjjohnson6772 There is nothing wrong with the Crockett and Jones standard line, I think they have pretty refined lasts and the quality is decent. With church's I would avoid their book binding leather shoes, apart from that I never owned one and can't say how well they hold up over time. With Carlos Santos, I only saw their Handgrade line and those were built and finished in a nice way. Since you asked for 3 shoemaker under 800 Dollar. Personally, I don't look at the regular price, cause some that I suggest might be above that, however they offer shoes on sale and the sale price would fit the price point or even be below 800. The 3 companies offer great shoes but all in different styles, since I don't know what aesthetic you prefer and to make it a bit more interesting. My second criteria was accessibility. My first company that I recommend that offers great shoes in an elegant style is J.M. Weston. Some great models currently on sale. The second company is Santoni but I need to be specific, the Goodyear welted models and only those unless you like sneakers those are also great. Santoni is more flamboyant but the Goodyear welted models are well constructed with nice crust leathers and partially beautiful patinas. My third company is Heinrich Dinkelacker, more chunky last but well built for their price point and unique. I hope that helps
Watch my review tonight of my John Lobb drift. While the Bemer is at least handwelted, I do agree with a lot of this. It’s hard to tell because it’s hard to get vocalou calf on other brands, but the leather premium alone doesn’t justify 1400 bucks here (or on others). Many gentlemen question if a gyw shoe CAN command that price fairly but I do think it can, especially since you can order a cemented St Crispins.
@@tjjohnson6772 no TH-cam channel yet, maybe one day in the future.