Mike shows his style and knowledge of cement use. All my videos are my ways and ideas, I always suggest when someone is building or re-doing work to consult outside professional help.
Mike - This is bringing back so many memories of my father. He was a union Master Plasterer in Northern Indiana. He started his career back in 1957. I remember him mixing plaster in the same way you talk about mixing mortar. I remember his Ford pickup truck with the windowed cover over the bed, the same as I've seen in your videos. I remember helping him load that bed with buckets and trowels and wooden levels and bags of sand and lime and gypsum when I was probably 8 or 9. I remember him waking up at 4:30 and getting his breakfast ready and heading out by 5:00 for jobs that were an hour and half away. I found your videos because I was looking at fixing some masonry around my home. I found something else: memories and a recognition of true tradecraft. Thank you Mike.
Hi Mike: Thank you so much for passing on your knowledge of cement from you many years of experience. Bravo for guys like you that take the time to pass along such useful knowledge. You're a champ. Thanks again. Jim Williams
Every mason has a different opinion, I got to say I always use portland, because I never have a problem, I also think it is the weight of the retaining wall that keeps it in place more than the cement. I don,t thing you are doing wrong cause s mortar holds up a lot better than plain mortar, and a shovel of portland can't hurt.. and I sure don,t want to tell some one what to do. my videos are just my opinions being passed on as something to be considered... thanks for the comment. mike
I'm a Janitor / Sextant... for a Boston Church with a 5' Stone Wall and a series of steps up to sanctuary entrance. The stone wall has a bit of loose mortar. The side walls for the stairs are also cracking like crazy. When I first started working on the wall - I used premixed cement with some small stones built in. Well - long story short - that was wrong cement - tough to tuck into the cracks and between stones. Now I'm using Portland and sand. 2:1 ratio. I'm getting better at this. Tremendous thanks to Mike Haddock. I feel like I'm a Mike Haddock - Apprentice.
Your videos are the best. I have learned so much about concrete by watching your videos. Your Dad passed his knowledge onto you about how to do this and now you are teaching thousands of people to do this via the internet. Pretty neat!!
I can't tell anyone what to use. but I ususally on a outside wall use two buckets of sand to one bucket of S mortar. then if it will be exposed to any weather I will add a shovel of portland. now if it is on a patio where the rain hits it everyday I will use only portland. sometimes its a good idea to let some days go by so the base coat has time to shrink, my opinion thanks mike
, I wouldn't do anything on anybodys house that I wouldn,t do on mine. Of course it is always my opinion and my ways of doing things, seems to work for me. and I try to tell folks to always ask other pros. I appreciate the comment. thanks mike
Mike your the best . I did cement work around the house before. I had no idea what I was doing until I found you on TH-cam. thank you very very much for teaching me things i will use the rest of my life. there is also some kind of cement work I find to do now because of you . thank you.
Mike, I know Concrete work is brutal work. I enjoy watching someone that definitely know his trade. You make it look simple, but I know it is not. Thank, Mike
Veteran realtime experienced knowledge . no better teacher than the real old timers. Reminds me of summers carpenters apprentice 1985 Bklyn Shops ARtie ( Italian) and Ray(Irish) two of the best tradesmen. similar to this old house. Thanks Mike Haduck _ please continue to share your vast knowledge .
Mike, I just wanted to take some time and thank you for the videos you have posted. I had some cracks in my basement steps and stumbled upon your channel looking into ways to patch em up. I'm a younger guy mid 20s but relate to your old school methodology as it reminds me much of the way my grandfather who was a big influence on me during my teens worked on diesel equipment well into his 90s, the nothing to fancy get the job done kinda approach. Anyways after watching all you had to offer twice (including the banjo stuff) i came away with the courage to not only try and patch up my stairs I ended up busting up and rebuilding a old small garden retainer wall on the side of my house. Got quite a bit of smack talk from the neighbors during the process n probably took me 5xs the amount time to complete compared to paying someone to do it but in the end cost me bout 150 bucks for the tools and portland/sand and got compliments from all of them, my father in law thought my my stairs were brand new at first. I had my 8yr old watching n he even got into once you started painting the chickens. Anyone asks him he'll tell you want it stick gotta get it wet first. I'm in the tropics of WNY where we get the mildest of winter weather from our northern neighbors across Great puddles of Erie and Ontario so well see how it looks in April. Thanks again man.
thanks Jack, hearing these kind of comments make me feel I am on the right track, and its true lots of folks do not have the guts to try it themselves, I should be the one giving you the credit, thanks mike
Interesting. I worked on resurfacing and adding some grade to a little sidewalk project and tried everything until I read an article that mentioned 2 sand and 1 portland and I have used it for projects all summer and it works great. It's nice to hear a confirmation on it. Thanks Mike for your expertise and willingness to share it.
Yup, this is one of the videos that saved me on my first attempt at fixing stairs. I’ve watched it 4 times. My garage is now filled with small wooden molds, bags of aggregate and Portland cement. My wife got annoyed that I snuck out at 1am to check on the 1’ by 2’ “slab” I poured.
Mike Haduck. The winters aren't nearly as harsh here in Oklahoma. I'm learning how to lay stone and the professionals are helping me. Love your videos.
You answer my question I am installing a standing shower & when you explain that Portland cement they use it in high way & swimming pools , I am going for the portal cement, because experience is knowledge, thanks a million!
love it . I work for E.G Conti for 6 months and I was the pit man. I learned that they had a special way of mixing which gave them a special looking mortar.
Don't forget it takes cement weeks to finally cure, and every mason uses different mixes especially from different states, I get my masonry sand sometimes from the concrete company or quarrys, all depends on what I am doing, good luck, mike
Down in South Carolina. I think I've watched every video you've done twice. I wanted to thank you as you've made me a more informed owner. I know I can't do these jobs myself, but you've given me the confidence to make sure I get the RIGHT people to do the job and that's what I needed. I hoped to do the work myself, but seeing skilled laborers vs myself, it's better to pay a skilled worker the first time. Thanks Mike, I owe you a beer or 12.
Mike thanks for the education. Very helpful for a not very skilled (but wants to have a go DIYer). I liked how as soon as you started the lawnmower started up. I assume you asked them to stop please and then as soon as you re-commenced over came the aircraft.
Hey Mike, I’m from Kansas, we bought a small house, but the east basement wall leaks water really badly when it rains. Built in 1908 and has the old (red brick) walls with a slight bow in it. The house has no guttering and a sidewalk by it, which is terrible. I’m putting up guttering and putting in a new sidewalk, but this time the cement will go up to the house and about 4 feet out, should end the water problem. Then I want to put about a 1/4 inch of Portland on the brick walls to seal them, inside. What mix do you recommend? I was going to mix 2-Sand and 1-Portland? Thanks, Jim
Hi Jim, That is what I use, and I have not had a problem, others say different, but I do have videos out and how i repair an old stone foundation, They may help thanks Mike
my best answer is - every mason I every worked with used a different mix and every region and state and country is the same way. many masons still add lime ,nothing wrong with that. but you can go to lowes or home depot and buy a ready mix for mortar or Portland , which is fine, I use them for certain jobs. hope it helped, thanks mike
I learned a lot about cement and sand. It's good to know I can just go with Portland's on most projects. I don't have any projects yet but it's something to think about
Thanks for the explanation Mike, this is very helpful (especially as I'm also in PA, so your region-specific tips apply for me). Your teaching style really makes the prospect of masonry work less intimidating.
It all depends. Old school is just Portland in a paint but there are some resurface products at lowes and homedepot tha work well, depending. on what you want. test it on an old block to make sure. thanks mike
Hello! I refer to you as an excellent source of information regarding the different uses of either mortar or cement The situation : I'm building a smoking room that includes a compartment (oven) that generates smoke placed outside the space where the food is smoked (the smoker). A clay pipe connects the two devices in which the smoke travels from one to the other. This configuration makes it possible to avoid excessive heat diffusion on the foodstuffs. So, I'm building a '' pavement '' floor on the floor itself and then spreading the '' refractory '' bricks on this pavement. The whole will be sheltered by bricks (formation of the oven). The questions: FOR THIS PAVÉ • Is it better to use MORTAR to make this pavement and then install the firebricks by sticking them to the mortar OR • use CONCRETE and adhere the refractory tiles with mortar. Keep in mind that freeze and thaw movements are common in Quebec. Thank you for your information . Yves Dufresne
Thanks for another excellent video Mike. I'm just about to restore a 1920 fieldstone porch pillar because the mortar has decomposed so I will use Portland instead of the S-type mortar like I had planned on using
I would say type S is Ok, and getting a bag of pre-mix from home depot would work if your going to fix it yourself, (type S basically has Portland in it) I would get a few old bricks and practice on something else if you were a beginner.before you do it on your steps. that is my opinion, check out "how I repair brick steps (mike Haduck)" video, thanks mike
mike thanks for all of the great tips. I always wondered how the molecular structure of cement worked. based on viewing many of your videos I'm going to do the block work on my shop addition.
+Dickie Brown I hope it works out, depending on the job for block I usually use S mortar, every area and mason does it different, I would ask the locals what they use first. hope it helps, thanks mike
Thanks for the great videos. I'm researching because I'm planning on doing a little flagstone work by my pool after a plumbing company wanted $700 to do about a 4x4 area after fixing a leak underneath.
I like mixing my own mortar cause I can buy sand better matches whatever was put in originally We can buy brick sand or cement sand Also we can get Missouri River sand or Kansas river sand ks sand has issues and gives alkaline silica reaction in cement. I mostly work on historic buildings My main gig is cement terrazzo repair but after watching your video I'm starting to do more stone and cement repair I'm going start making precast terrazzo steps and cement caps this spring Love your videos
brick work and block work is a whole different thing, if you wet the brick it gets sloppy and cleaning is a big issue, same with block work, remember that cement is a binder and not a glue, if you want to do the glue effect then you wet it. things like stucco and patch up. you have to work in the trade for a while to understand it. every mason in every state or country does it different. my opinion, thanks mike
Guess what I’m trying to ask is: for sidewalk painting your way: better to use portland with sand/bonding adhesive or Quickrete stucco that has white sand & put bonding adhesive in it to get more consistent color vs possible darker spots when using portland painted on with a brush? Thank you for your knowledge and patience
Mike, Thanks for all your efforts here. I have watched 2 hours of your videos and have learned a lot. However, it seems as though you like Portland with the 1 part Portland and 2 parts sand more then mason mix type S mortar. At least for most of your jobs. I am building a corner stone wall with a hearth floor for a woodstove. I am going to put a 1" spacer on the wall and 1" top and bottom so air can flow top to bottom. I will be using concrete board with wire mesh. From what I can gather from your vids is..... and correct me if I am wrong. You prefer mason mix type S pre mixed mortar for vertical stones like the wall and for the floor laying flat you prefer 2 parts sand and 1 part Portland. It will be a lot of work to not get it right. Thanks a million.
Hi Greg, I a lot of cases that would be correct, I do like S mortar for up and down and anything laying flat portland and sand, In my area that is what works for me, a lot of masons do not agree but I am the one who gets the call backs if it falls apart, of course every situation is a bit different so I always try and show what I used on every video, I would ask the locals, especially the local mason supply companies in your area, wood stoves are a dangerous thing so I would do a lot of investigating, expecially if the masonry is attached to a wood wall, I hope it helps, mike
Mike, Just to make it clear you have said that you like type S mortar for up and down and anything flat. So do you buy the Mason mix type S mortar pre mixed in the quikrete yellow and green bag or do you buy separate bags of sand and Portland and mix 2 to 1 ratio for a hearth and floor for a woodstove.
Hi Mike, I have found your videos to be extremely helpful! My father was a huge fix-it guy but hadn't been able to do much around the house the last few years. He passed away in January. I'm staying with my mother this summer to help her with some things. The two biggest items needing attention is the concrete (steps and driveway) and house painting. I just finished the porch, feeling much more more confident after watching your videos about 25 times. The corner was broken off and the front deeply pitted. I used mortar to repair (also a badly deteriorated corner foundation of the house) and later topped the whole set of steps with Portland. I just finished it yesterday and it looks great! My mother is thrilled. :) Here is my question. You mention in this video that straight Portland will crack. In other videos, you "paint" with Portland (and some bonding glue) for a nice finish, but there is no sand. That's what I did on the steps. I'm in Wisconsin - severe fluctuations in temperature with an occasional -20 to -30 in the winter and today (June 21) is supposed to be 96 degrees with lots of humidity. My next plan of order is fixing the cracks and pot holes in the drive with Cement All and then going over the top with Portland. Do you recommend using sand in this mix? And one last question... sorry this is so long. You mentioned that you sometimes mix Portland in with the Cement All. If I were to do this on the surface, what sort of ratio would you recommend? Thank you so much for your help!
Hi, I wouldn't mix the Portland in with rapid set, I do that in very rare cases, and painting with portland is a old school thing that dosent effect the shrinking very much. But patches without sand Is where it really shrinks, if all that makes sense, it's an experience thing, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck That does make sense, thank you. I'm patching with Cement-All. Since the driveway is so badly damaged, it's getting pretty expensive. My reason for wanting to mix the Portland with the Cement All is because I need to try to level the driveway more on my top layer. With a straight Portland and sand mix, I think it will crack where it ends up a little thicker in that process. Also, I'm hoping the Cement-All will speed up the curing process. I'm a complete amateur for sure but trying to do my best to make the driveway safer for Mom to walk on in the winter. Naturally, I'd prefer that my efforts resulted in something that looks good in the end also. Any further suggestions or comments that might be helpful?
Hi Mike. I just bought a home in Florida that I plan to renovate. I have extensive interrior renovation experience, and with this renovation I plan to tackle some of the exterior jobs myself. One of them is mortaring over a glass block window that's no longer in use. My guess is that the opening in the exterior cement wall was made for an air conditioner when the home was built in 1948, and then later filled in with glass block when the central heating and air was added. Now with newer hurricaine proof windows in the house, the glass block windows have already been covered up on the inside. The glass block is set back (not flush) with the exterior surface of the wall, so I was simply planning to mortar over the glass block. Good or bad idea? Your videos have been extremely helpful with tools and technique. Thanks! I watched this one to see which cement to use, and you left me hangin' when you said "In Florida it's a whole different story." What do you recommend I use and how should I mix it? I'd appreciate your advice (or advice from any of Mike's followers). Thanks again!
I would get a couple old bricks and practice first, If you get a hose and wire brush the cement that is on the brick will clean up the next day, check out my how to do a stone patio on the cleaning part, good luck my opinion, mike
Thank you so much for your informative videos Mike Haduck! I love those repairing concrete steps videos. They are a great help for what I want to undertake to repair my mom's steps. You instruct like a real pro who has been doing it "for thousands of years!" lol. Best of luck and thanks again for your generosity and insight!
These videos remind me of the old days when my father and grandfather used to team up to do some job around the house. Dad had been in the building trade in the early 50s and Grandpa learned way back in the 20s. They used to call me over and say 'watch this and learn something'. They hated any fancy quick fix solution that cost a lot of money.
Love you Mike! Couldn't figure out why my chimney repair fell apart. I used Type S mortar and water, and it scraped right off. Guess the mortar was too old (10 years+). Now I know to add a little Portland and masons sand too, and a new bag of mortar. You rock!
In a lot of your videos you blend Portland together with S mortar- and then mix THAT with your sand. My question is- for purposes of practicing - if I were to mix bagged premade Sand Mix with bagged premade S-Mortar--- Would that be suitable for practicing and have similar characteristics to the mix you make from scratch? Just to be clear- the sand mix and S-mortar I'm talking about are the bags that only call for water- from either of the 2 big companies.
Mike I don't know why there are lines thru my sentences above. I must have made a mistake. I didn't mean for those sentences to be "crossed out". thanks
I have mixed both and added portland, sand s mortar etc. in my opinion cement is cement, but It all depends on what you are using it for, when where and why, I know for sure you might have trouble matching the colors, Like I said though everything depends , it it is underground I usually don't care, I hope it helps thanks mike
Oh, I forgot that I mentioned the stairs a couple days ago. One of the hard parts is the prep work. Chiseling off cement from the bricks, chiseling off mortar and cement from the stairs, wire brushing the area, then seeing and removing more. Not to mention that the ants seem to love areas under the brick. What a pain in the butt job. I am hoping that the actual putting it back together will be less intense and more interesting than cleaning the area.
Thanks Mike. I wondered when walking through the mason aisle at Home Depot or Loews what's the difference between all the types of cement. Now I know. The project that I'm now tackling is redoing a ground-level bathroom. I took off the interior wall and found a buried window and lots of ancient termite damage to the joists and lower wall plates (no live termites.) Since the exterior wall is masonry up to 5-6 ft, I want to cut the window out and replace it with cement block & cement. I also want to replace the bottom wall plate frame, since they were completely eaten by the termites, with cement plates to assure that there isn't any openings -- then affix pressure treated wood to the cement plates.
OK Mike, You have been super helpful but still want your advise on which one to use. I am laying down a 5x5 hearth for my wood stove to set on and please correct me if you would do it differently. I was going to lay a sheet of tar paper directly to the wood floor and then screw down the durorock or cement board on top of the tar paper and then screw the wire mesh to the cement board and then apply the stones. Again please let me know if you would go another route. I am also doing a vertical wall 5' wide and 8' tall behind the stove and was going to do the same thing minus the tar paper. Would you use the Portland type 1 or the Mortar type s to apply the stones on the floor as well as the vertical wall. You mentioned that the Portland is stronger so I thought it would be better for the 8' tall vertical wall since there is going to be a lot of weight with natural rock.This video is a thumbs up. Thanks again Mike. Wished I could work with you for a few weeks would learn a lot I am sure.
Hi Greg, best way for me to answer that is , do what you think best, I have had no problems the way I did it on my videos, it’s imposible To say unless I was there to see it, do a little testing and you should be fine, I hope it helps, thanks, mike
Just need to know what type of cement you would use on the vertical wall as well as the hearth pad. I am not holding you to any liability just need to go buy it and get started. Just want to do it the way a experienced mason would do it. Thanks again
Hi Greg, my rule of thumb is if it is up and down.( block ,brick, stone, stucco) I usually use S mortar, if I feel it is too week I might add a little more Portland , if it is laying flat I use portland, other masons might disagree, but it always worked for me, thanks, mike
Thanks Mike, You did mention in your video that type S mortar is weaker and that Portland is stronger. That is why I thought for a real and natural rock up and down wall that is 5' wide and 8' tall with the weight, the Portland would be better. So in this case would you still use the type S Mortar.
Hi Greg, I went Over three story’s high with half mortar half Portland, never had a problem, just make sure the foundation is good enough and that the stone is tied into whatever is holding it, I hope it helps. , mike
Hi mike, every video you’ve posted has been very informative and you inspire me to become a better mason with every job. I notice your mixing 2 parts sand into almost everything other than rapid set. You’ve even added sand to type s mortar mix,(which has some sand already in it) in the video where you repair steps. I was curious to know what adding the extra sand does to the mix. And why you do it. YOUR feedback (not a “cement scientist’s”) would be much appreciated.
Hi Franco, very hard to explain, every job is different, I did a series years ago called , masonry tips for beginners, I explain all the different types of cement, maybe you seen me adding sand to straight mortar, thanks, mike
Mike, If you were going to install flagstone as a hearth under a wood stove over a tongue and groove hardwood floor would you use a 1/2" sheet of cement board under the flagstone or simply lay down some plastic or tar paper right on the wood floor and put the Portland right on to the plastic or tar paper. I will be building a 5'x5' 2x4 frame to hold the Portland
Hi Greg, too much liability to answer questions around wood stoves, I did some videos on how I lay stone patios, I would ask the local inspector on that, thanks, mike
Mike, Not holding you to any liability just not wanting to have to redo a job that was not done right. Just looking for functionality and the flagstone's staying in place. Please let me know.
Hi Greg , the only one I did was “ how I install a stone patio ( Part 4 of 4), Inside foyer, And that is what I did fir that situation, every job is different, I hope it helps, thanks, Mike
Thank you for the lesson. I am a retired American living in the Philippines. I am building a house here. I do not know anything about the Philippine cement here. the masons here are very sloppy, and there work is very poor at best. nothing is plumped here. So I'm going to do the work. any advise? Again thanks............... It's very hot and humid and very rainy here.
+BoB Barney whatever they use is probably it. Pennsylvania has different weather. So to be truthful I would see what they use and follow suit. I hope it helps thanks mike
Type s mortar is basically a parging coat and stronger than type n which is more of an above ground bricking mortar. Portland on the other hand is not a masonry. Portland is a high strength concrete. High strength concrete is a different breed and should be used for things that are meant to last a long time. In ground pools use a lot of high strength products. Portland at high strength, basically a grout, white portland, marble and various sands. Why do in ground pools last so long? Mix. High strength mixes like 2 to 1 sand to cement are used for not only strength but as well stickiness without or with additives. Concrete sprayed repair to ceilings and stone foundations is of the same format. If you want it to stick you need a clean surface, watering the surface is the first piece for bonding as Mike demonstrates, but a greasy mix is very important as well. Mike is doing repairs to broken things, it is generally cost effective to repair rather then replace a whole wall. It is faster and it needs to last because of the costs involved. Weather factors while using the materials is a completely different set of factors not even focused on or even explained. Do not assume that because you can now mix some material together that your going to get a professional job doing it yourself. Do not assume that Mike is neglecting to follow standard building practices of outlined types of cement based products. Those products are for building things the first time and using them for repair can be successful at times and can also cause the contractor nightmares of returning to a job. Everything is not clear cut and experience is number 1.
Good video. I never understood why the ready mix mortars never seemed to work for me. After they set, I could scratch the material away with my fingernail. I experimented trying to make a block of ready mix mortar, and it would just crush into sand. So I purchased portland cement and sand, and will do the 1 to 2 mix like you do. I have brick stairs to repair and also a flagstone patio. I am not looking for perfection with the patio, I just don't want the weeds growing through the joints.
Hi Mike, I have large cobblestones edging my driveway, originally the contractor put mortar between each one. Now 7 years later all the mortar is falling out between the stones. I would like to put it back, should I wet it before and what mix to use ? Thanks....Jim..... Love all the videos. You are your own man !!!
Hi Jim, usually when they put cobblestone and lay it in concrete like curbs it all stays together, but if they are laid in sand they move and the mortar falls out, I don't wet it in that case but the idea is not to make a mess of it, thanks Mike
I could never say for sure unless I seen it. but doing a job like that I would approach it like you would do body work on a car. I make sure the surface is clean and no loose debris. then wet it good and use 2 sand to 1 Portland and keep going over it till you get the desired effect. practice first on a old block. good luck mike
I could never say unless I seen it. but of course I add gravel to the portland mix for certain things. cement use is somewhat of an art. and everything must be taken into factor such as temperature, if it is in the sun or shade. time of year, ask the local guys in your area what they use. and all cement cracks. ususally I find the more rich cements cracks faster than a weeker mix. but then it falls apart faster,,,like I said everthing matters. thanks mike
Oscar Mendez thanks, check out my video," masonry tips for beginners," MIke Haduck --- it adds a little more to dealing with masonry thanks again, mike
I've Always Thought you Use Just Enough Powder Goods to Fill the Voids Between the Grains of Sand. You Can Measure the Void Ratio By Measuring How Much Water it Takes to Totally Saturate Clean Dry Sand. Around Here Mason Sand is About ⅓ Voids (Space Between Grains of Sand) So I Generally Mix 3 to 1. For Stone I Use a Shovel of Coarse Torpedo Sand in a Bucket of Mason Sand .Then Add Powder Goods About 1Part Cement to 3 parts Sand. You Can Tell When There's Enough Cement By the Way it Feels.
oh, ok. Thanks. I am going to repair brick steps, I think it is a small enough job that I can do it myself. I'm not worried to much about it being perfect, just want it back together again. Also there are a lot of areas that need re-pointing. In one youtube video, the person added a little dish washing soap to the mix. He said it acted as a plastisizer. Ever hear of that? I won't be adding it to my mix though.
Mike - This is bringing back so many memories of my father. He was a union Master Plasterer in Northern Indiana. He started his career back in 1957. I remember him mixing plaster in the same way you talk about mixing mortar. I remember his Ford pickup truck with the windowed cover over the bed, the same as I've seen in your videos. I remember helping him load that bed with buckets and trowels and wooden levels and bags of sand and lime and gypsum when I was probably 8 or 9. I remember him waking up at 4:30 and getting his breakfast ready and heading out by 5:00 for jobs that were an hour and half away.
I found your videos because I was looking at fixing some masonry around my home. I found something else: memories and a recognition of true tradecraft. Thank you Mike.
Thanks Chris, I actually get a lot of comments like these, it's a good thing to remember, pass it on, thanks Mike
Hi Mike:
Thank you so much for passing on your knowledge of cement from you many years of experience. Bravo for guys like you that take the time to pass along such useful knowledge. You're a champ.
Thanks again.
Jim Williams
Perfectly said.
اللهم صل على محمد وال محمد
Very helpful for the DIYer. Thank you for not getting into too much detail. You're a great teacher.
Thanks Larry, I appreciate it, Mike
Wow. I'm really enjoying these older videos popping up! Thanks, Mike!
Thanks Linda, Mike
You are my absolute go-to guy for any masonry instruction. You are easy and educational!
Thanks cld,Mike
Every mason has a different opinion, I got to say I always use portland, because I never have a problem, I also think it is the weight of the retaining wall that keeps it in place more than the cement. I don,t thing you are doing wrong cause s mortar holds up a lot better than plain mortar, and a shovel of portland can't hurt.. and I sure don,t want to tell some one what to do. my videos are just my opinions being passed on as something to be considered... thanks for the comment. mike
I'm a Janitor / Sextant... for a Boston Church with a 5' Stone Wall and a series of steps up to sanctuary entrance. The stone wall has a bit of loose mortar. The side walls for the stairs are also cracking like crazy. When I first started working on the wall - I used premixed cement with some small stones built in. Well - long story short - that was wrong cement - tough to tuck into the cracks and between stones. Now I'm using Portland and sand. 2:1 ratio. I'm getting better at this. Tremendous thanks to Mike Haddock. I feel like I'm a Mike Haddock - Apprentice.
Thanks Fester, I appreciate it, mike
Your videos are the best. I have learned so much about concrete by watching your videos. Your Dad passed his knowledge onto you about how to do this and now you are teaching thousands of people to do this via the internet. Pretty neat!!
thanks, I appreciate it and am still working on it. mike
I can't tell anyone what to use. but I ususally on a outside wall use two buckets of sand to one bucket of S mortar. then if it will be exposed to any weather I will add a shovel of portland. now if it is on a patio where the rain hits it everyday I will use only portland. sometimes its a good idea to let some days go by so the base coat has time to shrink, my opinion thanks mike
Your videos are incredibly helpful. Helped me out multiple times. Thanks, Mike.
Thanks Gypsy, Mike
, I wouldn't do anything on anybodys house that I wouldn,t do on mine. Of course it is always my opinion and my ways of doing things, seems to work for me. and I try to tell folks to always ask other pros. I appreciate the comment. thanks mike
Mike your the best . I did cement work around the house before. I had no idea what I was doing until I found you on TH-cam. thank you very very much for teaching me things i will use the rest of my life. there is also some kind of cement work I find to do now because of you . thank you.
Thanks Smokey, I appreciate it, Mike
Mike, I know Concrete work is brutal work. I enjoy watching someone that definitely know his trade. You make it look simple, but I know it is not.
Thank, Mike
Thank you, I appreciate it. mike
Veteran realtime experienced knowledge . no better teacher than the real old timers. Reminds me of summers carpenters apprentice 1985 Bklyn Shops ARtie ( Italian) and Ray(Irish) two of the best tradesmen. similar to this old house. Thanks Mike Haduck _ please continue to share your vast knowledge .
Thanks Wynton, I appreciate it, mike
on ready mix cements I just add the water and use it that way. hope it helps
Mike truly thank you for your time and the education you provide. I can't wait to get the shirt I ordered a few weeks back I'll wear it with pride.
Thanks, I appreciate it, Mike
@@MikeHaduck shirt came in. Showed it to my dad he got a kick out of it. Thanks again
Thanks, Mike
Mike, I just wanted to take some time and thank you for the videos you have posted. I had some cracks in my basement steps and stumbled upon your channel looking into ways to patch em up. I'm a younger guy mid 20s but relate to your old school methodology as it reminds me much of the way my grandfather who was a big influence on me during my teens worked on diesel equipment well into his 90s, the nothing to fancy get the job done kinda approach. Anyways after watching all you had to offer twice (including the banjo stuff) i came away with the courage to not only try and patch up my stairs I ended up busting up and rebuilding a old small garden retainer wall on the side of my house. Got quite a bit of smack talk from the neighbors during the process n probably took me 5xs the amount time to complete compared to paying someone to do it but in the end cost me bout 150 bucks for the tools and portland/sand and got compliments from all of them, my father in law thought my my stairs were brand new at first. I had my 8yr old watching n he even got into once you started painting the chickens. Anyone asks him he'll tell you want it stick gotta get it wet first. I'm in the tropics of WNY where we get the mildest of winter weather from our northern neighbors across Great puddles of Erie and Ontario so well see how it looks in April. Thanks again man.
thanks Jack, hearing these kind of comments make me feel I am on the right track, and its true lots of folks do not have the guts to try it themselves, I should be the one giving you the credit, thanks mike
Interesting. I worked on resurfacing and adding some grade to a little sidewalk project and tried everything until I read an article that mentioned 2 sand and 1 portland and I have used it for projects all summer and it works great. It's nice to hear a confirmation on it. Thanks Mike for your expertise and willingness to share it.
Thanks Dallas, mike
Yup, this is one of the videos that saved me on my first attempt at fixing stairs. I’ve watched it 4 times. My garage is now filled with small wooden molds, bags of aggregate and Portland cement. My wife got annoyed that I snuck out at 1am to check on the 1’ by 2’ “slab” I poured.
Thanks Jonathan, I bet it comes out great, mike
Mike Haduck Masonry
I was just watching your bird bath video when I got your reply. Your the best Mike, thank you!
Great video! You did a great job breaking down what types of cements there are and what they are good for! Masonry is definitely an art thank you.
Thanks El, Mike
Mike Haduck. The winters aren't nearly as harsh here in Oklahoma. I'm learning how to lay stone and the professionals are helping me. Love your videos.
Jessy Churchwell thanks Jessy, I appreciate it. mike
You answer my question I am installing a standing shower & when you explain that Portland cement they use it in high way & swimming pools , I am going for the portal cement, because experience is knowledge, thanks a million!
Thanks Hector, Mike
love it . I work for E.G Conti for 6 months and I was the pit man. I learned that they had a special way of mixing which gave them a special looking mortar.
thanks ty, I appreciate it. mike
Thanks for you for the videos Mike, I'm young I really value this work, thank you for your videos.
Thanks Joel, mike
Don't forget it takes cement weeks to finally cure, and every mason uses different mixes especially from different states, I get my masonry sand sometimes from the concrete company or quarrys, all depends on what I am doing, good luck, mike
Down in South Carolina. I think I've watched every video you've done twice. I wanted to thank you as you've made me a more informed owner. I know I can't do these jobs myself, but you've given me the confidence to make sure I get the RIGHT people to do the job and that's what I needed. I hoped to do the work myself, but seeing skilled laborers vs myself, it's better to pay a skilled worker the first time. Thanks Mike, I owe you a beer or 12.
Thanks HBC, I appreciate it. the south has same different techniques that is not required as up here because of the weather, but I appreciate it. mike
Mike thanks for the education. Very helpful for a not very skilled (but wants to have a go DIYer). I liked how as soon as you started the lawnmower started up. I assume you asked them to stop please and then as soon as you re-commenced over came the aircraft.
Very true bill, lol, mike
Out of all the videos I've watched, your the only one that tills me how much sand to mix with Portland...thanks!
Hi Jim, every area of the country is different and depends on what you’re doing, but for the most part that’s what I use, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, I’m from Kansas, we bought a small house, but the east basement wall leaks water really badly when it rains. Built in 1908 and has the old (red brick) walls with a slight bow in it. The house has no guttering and a sidewalk by it, which is terrible. I’m putting up guttering and putting in a new sidewalk, but this time the cement will go up to the house and about 4 feet out, should end the water problem.
Then I want to put about a 1/4 inch of Portland on the brick walls to seal them, inside. What mix do you recommend? I was going to mix 2-Sand and 1-Portland? Thanks, Jim
Hi Jim, That is what I use, and I have not had a problem, others say different, but I do have videos out and how i repair an old stone foundation, They may help thanks Mike
my best answer is - every mason I every worked with used a different mix and every region and state and country is the same way. many masons still add lime ,nothing wrong with that. but you can go to lowes or home depot and buy a ready mix for mortar or Portland , which is fine, I use them for certain jobs. hope it helped, thanks mike
Thanks for the video! Very informative and easy to understand.
thanks, I hope it helps. mike
Thank you for sharing your knowledge Mr Mike .
Thanks, Mike
"YOU ARE THE MAN" thank you for your videos; their are still folks out here that are self reliant.
Thanks Thrasher, I appreciate that, mike
I learned a lot about cement and sand. It's good to know I can just go with Portland's on most projects. I don't have any projects yet but it's something to think about
Hi Laura, I usually show what I used in each of my projects, thanks. Mike
Here from your Lime or Portland video. Love your work. Thank you for the cement lesson!
Thanks, Mike
Thanks for the explanation Mike, this is very helpful (especially as I'm also in PA, so your region-specific tips apply for me). Your teaching style really makes the prospect of masonry work less intimidating.
thanks, glad it helps, mike
Mike, thanks for the fundamentals.
Thanks Luis, Mike
Thank you so much, God bless you and your family , Portland I will use for my swimming pool.
Thanks slick, I have a whole playlist on " concrete patches" Mike haduck,
Thank you so much for teaching these funadamentals. Appreciate it.
thanks, I appreciate it. mike
Your videos are the best on the youtubes. Im watching them all before beginning a set of projects!
It all depends. Old school is just Portland in a paint but there are some resurface products at lowes and homedepot tha work well, depending. on what you want. test it on an old block to make sure. thanks mike
Hello!
I refer to you as an excellent source of information regarding the different uses of either mortar or cement
The situation :
I'm building a smoking room that includes a compartment (oven) that generates smoke placed outside the space where the food is smoked (the smoker).
A clay pipe connects the two devices in which the smoke travels from one to the other. This configuration makes it possible to avoid excessive heat diffusion on the foodstuffs.
So, I'm building a '' pavement '' floor on the floor itself and then spreading the '' refractory '' bricks on this pavement. The whole will be sheltered by bricks (formation of the oven).
The questions: FOR THIS PAVÉ
• Is it better to use MORTAR to make this pavement and then install the firebricks by sticking them to the mortar
OR
• use CONCRETE and adhere the refractory tiles with mortar.
Keep in mind that freeze and thaw movements are common in Quebec.
Thank you for your information .
Yves Dufresne
Hi Yves, I. Cannot really answer that , a lot going on with it, I would see what the codes require, but thanks for asking, thanks Mike
Thanks for another excellent video Mike. I'm just about to restore a 1920 fieldstone porch pillar because the mortar has decomposed so I will use Portland instead of the S-type mortar like I had planned on using
I appreciate that. I have fun making them. thanks mike
thanks on the comment, it its my opinion of course but it works form me, mike
I would say type S is Ok, and getting a bag of pre-mix from home depot would work if your going to fix it yourself, (type S basically has Portland in it) I would get a few old bricks and practice on something else if you were a beginner.before you do it on your steps. that is my opinion, check out "how I repair brick steps (mike Haduck)" video, thanks mike
Hi Mike, I'm trying to repoint my basement stone foundation what do you suggest using type S mortar or portland cement.
I need your help.
Thank you so much! These videos have helped me do so many jobs around my house.
I am having fun making the videos. thanks mike
Great video to learn about this. I have always been wondering about the differences about mortar and cement.
Great video and great visuals. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Ray, mike
mike thanks for all of the great tips. I always wondered how the molecular structure of cement worked. based on viewing many of your videos I'm going to do the block work on my shop addition.
+Dickie Brown I hope it works out, depending on the job for block I usually use S mortar, every area and mason does it different, I would ask the locals what they use first. hope it helps, thanks mike
Thanks for the great videos. I'm researching because I'm planning on doing a little flagstone work by my pool after a plumbing company wanted $700 to do about a 4x4 area after fixing a leak underneath.
I hope it helps. lots of stuff on youtube to give you good ideas. thanks mike
Very informative!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
thanks, I hope it helps, mike
I like mixing my own mortar cause I can buy sand better matches whatever was put in originally We can buy brick sand or cement sand Also we can get Missouri River sand or Kansas river sand ks sand has issues and gives alkaline silica reaction in cement. I mostly work on historic buildings My main gig is cement terrazzo repair but after watching your video I'm starting to do more stone and cement repair I'm going start making precast terrazzo steps and cement caps this spring Love your videos
Thanks John, I appreciate the comment, and wish you well, keep going, mike
brick work and block work is a whole different thing, if you wet the brick it gets sloppy and cleaning is a big issue, same with block work, remember that cement is a binder and not a glue, if you want to do the glue effect then you wet it. things like stucco and patch up. you have to work in the trade for a while to understand it. every mason in every state or country does it different. my opinion, thanks mike
Guess what I’m trying to ask is: for sidewalk painting your way: better to use portland with sand/bonding adhesive or Quickrete stucco that has white sand & put bonding adhesive in it to get more consistent color vs possible darker spots when using portland painted on with a brush? Thank you for your knowledge and patience
Hi Brenda, I don't use stucco mix for resurfacing, that is mostly for up and down work like stucco houses, thanks Mike
Mike- Once again, thanks so much for another fantastic video containing outstanding unbiased information. JJN ALBANY, NY.
+james nagle thanks, I appreciate it. I know other folks have other opinions, thanks mike
thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in the trade Mike. Some of the most informative videos on here
thank you I appreciate the comment. mike
Great and very clear video. Thank you Mark (UK)
+lionel hodges thanks lionel, I appreciate it, mike
Mike, Thanks for all your efforts here. I have watched 2 hours of your videos and have learned a lot. However, it seems as though you like Portland with the 1 part Portland and 2 parts sand more then mason mix type S mortar. At least for most of your jobs. I am building a corner stone wall with a hearth floor for a woodstove. I am going to put a 1" spacer on the wall and 1" top and bottom so air can flow top to bottom. I will be using concrete board with wire mesh. From what I can gather from your vids is..... and correct me if I am wrong. You prefer mason mix type S pre mixed mortar for vertical stones like the wall and for the floor laying flat you prefer 2 parts sand and 1 part Portland. It will be a lot of work to not get it right. Thanks a million.
Hi Greg, I a lot of cases that would be correct, I do like S mortar for up and down and anything laying flat portland and sand, In my area that is what works for me, a lot of masons do not agree but I am the one who gets the call backs if it falls apart, of course every situation is a bit different so I always try and show what I used on every video, I would ask the locals, especially the local mason supply companies in your area, wood stoves are a dangerous thing so I would do a lot of investigating, expecially if the masonry is attached to a wood wall, I hope it helps, mike
Mike, Just to make it clear you have said that you like type S mortar for up and down and anything flat. So do you buy the Mason mix type S mortar pre mixed in the quikrete yellow and green bag or do you buy separate bags of sand and Portland and mix 2 to 1 ratio for a hearth and floor for a woodstove.
Hi Mike,
I have found your videos to be extremely helpful! My father was a huge fix-it guy but hadn't been able to do much around the house the last few years. He passed away in January. I'm staying with my mother this summer to help her with some things. The two biggest items needing attention is the concrete (steps and driveway) and house painting.
I just finished the porch, feeling much more more confident after watching your videos about 25 times. The corner was broken off and the front deeply pitted. I used mortar to repair (also a badly deteriorated corner foundation of the house) and later topped the whole set of steps with Portland. I just finished it yesterday and it looks great! My mother is thrilled. :)
Here is my question. You mention in this video that straight Portland will crack. In other videos, you "paint" with Portland (and some bonding glue) for a nice finish, but there is no sand. That's what I did on the steps. I'm in Wisconsin - severe fluctuations in temperature with an occasional -20 to -30 in the winter and today (June 21) is supposed to be 96 degrees with lots of humidity. My next plan of order is fixing the cracks and pot holes in the drive with Cement All and then going over the top with Portland. Do you recommend using sand in this mix?
And one last question... sorry this is so long. You mentioned that you sometimes mix Portland in with the Cement All. If I were to do this on the surface, what sort of ratio would you recommend?
Thank you so much for your help!
Hi, I wouldn't mix the Portland in with rapid set, I do that in very rare cases, and painting with portland is a old school thing that dosent effect the shrinking very much. But patches without sand Is where it really shrinks, if all that makes sense, it's an experience thing, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck That does make sense, thank you. I'm patching with Cement-All. Since the driveway is so badly damaged, it's getting pretty expensive. My reason for wanting to mix the Portland with the Cement All is because I need to try to level the driveway more on my top layer. With a straight Portland and sand mix, I think it will crack where it ends up a little thicker in that process. Also, I'm hoping the Cement-All will speed up the curing process.
I'm a complete amateur for sure but trying to do my best to make the driveway safer for Mom to walk on in the winter. Naturally, I'd prefer that my efforts resulted in something that looks good in the end also. Any further suggestions or comments that might be helpful?
Hi Mike. I just bought a home in Florida that I plan to renovate. I have extensive interrior renovation experience, and with this renovation I plan to tackle some of the exterior jobs myself. One of them is mortaring over a glass block window that's no longer in use. My guess is that the opening in the exterior cement wall was made for an air conditioner when the home was built in 1948, and then later filled in with glass block when the central heating and air was added. Now with newer hurricaine proof windows in the house, the glass block windows have already been covered up on the inside. The glass block is set back (not flush) with the exterior surface of the wall, so I was simply planning to mortar over the glass block. Good or bad idea? Your videos have been extremely helpful with tools and technique. Thanks! I watched this one to see which cement to use, and you left me hangin' when you said "In Florida it's a whole different story." What do you recommend I use and how should I mix it? I'd appreciate your advice (or advice from any of Mike's followers). Thanks again!
Hi Alex, florida is a different story and I can not say for sure, in that case I would ask the locals, I hope it helps thanks mike
Ok. Thanks Mike. Look forward to watching more of you videos. Good luck to you.
great lesson..i was told if its a horizontal like walkway or patio always use portland...if its veritcal like chimney block etc....mortar is fine.
That’s my rule of thumb, Thanks mike
Great advice Mike thanks very much for your videos
BestToys Collector thanks, I appreciate it, mike
very informative, very easy to understand, thanks for the lesson.
thanks, mike
I would get a couple old bricks and practice first, If you get a hose and wire brush the cement that is on the brick will clean up the next day, check out my how to do a stone patio on the cleaning part, good luck my opinion, mike
Thank you so much for your informative videos Mike Haduck! I love those repairing concrete steps videos. They are a great help for what I want to undertake to repair my mom's steps. You instruct like a real pro who has been doing it "for thousands of years!" lol. Best of luck and thanks again for your generosity and insight!
+Pristine S. I just passing along what I learned from the old timers, thanks, I appreciate it. Mike
Excellent advice from Harduck
Thanks Joe, mike
Great content. Thanks for sharing your lifetime of experience.
Thanks, mike
Nice vid! I love the old school knowledge seems to always be the best!
Thanks Dave, mike
Love your videos Mike. You do things like my Dad and Uncle used to do. #OLDSCHOOL
Hi Tony, I am just passing along what the old timers taught me, thanks mike
Thanks, Its really amazing how we miss the basics when we are learning.
These videos remind me of the old days when my father and grandfather used to team up to do some job around the house. Dad had been in the building trade in the early 50s and Grandpa learned way back in the 20s. They used to call me over and say 'watch this and learn something'. They hated any fancy quick fix solution that cost a lot of money.
Love you Mike! Couldn't figure out why my chimney repair fell apart. I used Type S mortar and water, and it scraped right off. Guess the mortar was too old (10 years+). Now I know to add a little Portland and masons sand too, and a new bag of mortar. You rock!
Thanks Artisan, It always worked for me thanks Mike
In a lot of your videos you blend Portland together with S mortar- and then mix THAT with your sand. My question is- for purposes of practicing - if I were to mix bagged premade Sand Mix with bagged premade S-Mortar--- Would that be suitable for practicing and have similar characteristics to the mix you make from scratch? Just to be clear- the sand mix and S-mortar I'm talking about are the bags that only call for water- from either of the 2 big companies.
Mike I don't know why there are lines thru my sentences above. I must have made a mistake. I didn't mean for those sentences to be "crossed out". thanks
I have mixed both and added portland, sand s mortar etc. in my opinion cement is cement, but It all depends on what you are using it for, when where and why, I know for sure you might have trouble matching the colors, Like I said though everything depends , it it is underground I usually don't care, I hope it helps thanks mike
thanks, my opinion of course, mike
Oh, I forgot that I mentioned the stairs a couple days ago. One of the hard parts is the prep work. Chiseling off cement from the bricks, chiseling off mortar and cement from the stairs, wire brushing the area, then seeing and removing more. Not to mention that the ants seem to love areas under the brick. What a pain in the butt job. I am hoping that the actual putting it back together will be less intense and more interesting than cleaning the area.
Thanks Mike. I wondered when walking through the mason aisle at Home Depot or Loews what's the difference between all the types of cement. Now I know.
The project that I'm now tackling is redoing a ground-level bathroom. I took off the interior wall and found a buried window and lots of ancient termite damage to the joists and lower wall plates (no live termites.) Since the exterior wall is masonry up to 5-6 ft, I want to cut the window out and replace it with cement block & cement. I also want to replace the bottom wall plate frame, since they were completely eaten by the termites, with cement plates to assure that there isn't any openings -- then affix pressure treated wood to the cement plates.
Thanks Joel, mike
OK Mike, You have been super helpful but still want your advise on which one to use. I am laying down a 5x5 hearth for my wood stove to set on and please correct me if you would do it differently. I was going to lay a sheet of tar paper directly to the wood floor and then screw down the durorock or cement board on top of the tar paper and then screw the wire mesh to the cement board and then apply the stones. Again please let me know if you would go another route. I am also doing a vertical wall 5' wide and 8' tall behind the stove and was going to do the same thing minus the tar paper. Would you use the Portland type 1 or the Mortar type s to apply the stones on the floor as well as the vertical wall. You mentioned that the Portland is stronger so I thought it would be better for the 8' tall vertical wall since there is going to be a lot of weight with natural rock.This video is a thumbs up. Thanks again Mike. Wished I could work with you for a few weeks would learn a lot I am sure.
Hi Greg, best way for me to answer that is , do what you think best, I have had no problems the way I did it on my videos, it’s imposible To say unless I was there to see it, do a little testing and you should be fine, I hope it helps, thanks, mike
Just need to know what type of cement you would use on the vertical wall as well as the hearth pad. I am not holding you to any liability just need to go buy it and get started. Just want to do it the way a experienced mason would do it. Thanks again
Hi Greg, my rule of thumb is if it is up and down.( block ,brick, stone, stucco) I usually use S mortar, if I feel it is too week I might add a little more Portland , if it is laying flat I use portland, other masons might disagree, but it always worked for me, thanks, mike
Thanks Mike, You did mention in your video that type S mortar is weaker and that Portland is stronger. That is why I thought for a real and natural rock up and down wall that is 5' wide and 8' tall with the weight, the Portland would be better. So in this case would you still use the type S Mortar.
Hi Greg, I went Over three story’s high with half mortar half Portland, never had a problem, just make sure the foundation is good enough and that the stone is tied into whatever is holding it, I hope it helps. , mike
Your videos are great. Thank you.
Thanks Amos, Mike
Thanks! Mike you explained it very well
thanks Frank, I appreciate it. mike
Thanks for the video! This is exactly the type of info I wanted to know
Thanks Warren, Mike
Hi mike, every video you’ve posted has been very informative and you inspire me to become a better mason with every job.
I notice your mixing 2 parts sand into almost everything other than rapid set. You’ve even added sand to type s mortar mix,(which has some sand already in it) in the video where you repair steps. I was curious to know what adding the extra sand does to the mix. And why you do it. YOUR feedback (not a “cement scientist’s”) would be much appreciated.
Hi Franco, very hard to explain, every job is different, I did a series years ago called , masonry tips for beginners, I explain all the different types of cement, maybe you seen me adding sand to straight mortar, thanks, mike
What an awesome channel You’ve helped me out so much TY
Thanks, mike
Mike, If you were going to install flagstone as a hearth under a wood stove over a tongue and groove hardwood floor would you use a 1/2" sheet of cement board under the flagstone or simply lay down some plastic or tar paper right on the wood floor and put the Portland right on to the plastic or tar paper. I will be building a 5'x5' 2x4 frame to hold the Portland
Hi Greg, too much liability to answer questions around wood stoves, I did some videos on how I lay stone patios, I would ask the local inspector on that, thanks, mike
Mike, Not holding you to any liability just not wanting to have to redo a job that was not done right. Just looking for functionality and the flagstone's staying in place. Please let me know.
Hi Greg , the only one I did was “ how I install a stone patio ( Part 4 of 4), Inside foyer, And that is what I did fir that situation, every job is different, I hope it helps, thanks, Mike
Thank you for the lesson. I am a retired American living in the Philippines. I am building a house here. I do not know anything about the Philippine cement here. the masons here are very sloppy, and there work is very poor at best. nothing is plumped here. So I'm going to do the work. any advise? Again thanks............... It's very hot and humid and very rainy here.
+BoB Barney whatever they use is probably it. Pennsylvania has different weather. So to be truthful I would see what they use and follow suit. I hope it helps thanks mike
Type s mortar is basically a parging coat and stronger than type n which
is more of an above ground bricking mortar. Portland on the other hand
is not a masonry. Portland is a high strength concrete. High strength
concrete is a different breed and should be used for things that are
meant to last a long time. In ground pools use a lot of high strength
products. Portland at high strength, basically a grout, white portland,
marble and various sands. Why do in ground pools last so long? Mix. High
strength mixes like 2 to 1 sand to cement are used for not only
strength but as well stickiness without or with additives. Concrete
sprayed repair to ceilings and stone foundations is of the same format.
If you want it to stick you need a clean surface, watering the surface
is the first piece for bonding as Mike demonstrates, but a greasy mix is
very important as well. Mike is doing repairs to broken things, it is
generally cost effective to repair rather then replace a whole wall. It
is faster and it needs to last because of the costs involved. Weather
factors while using the materials is a completely different set of
factors not even focused on or even explained. Do not assume that
because you can now mix some material together that your going to get a
professional job doing it yourself. Do not assume that Mike is
neglecting to follow standard building practices of outlined types of
cement based products. Those products are for building things the first
time and using them for repair can be successful at times and can also
cause the contractor nightmares of returning to a job. Everything is not
clear cut and experience is number 1.
Stucco scratch mix-1 bag portland/28sand/ 1/2 bag lime
Hi, whatever works in your area, thanks mike
Thank you Sir, for all the information 😉
Thanks Jorge, Mike
Great informative video
Thanks John, Mike
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
thanks Dzabel, I am passing along what I learned from others, thanks mike
Good video. I never understood why the ready mix mortars never seemed to work for me. After they set, I could scratch the material away with my fingernail. I experimented trying to make a block of ready mix mortar, and it would just crush into sand. So I purchased portland cement and sand, and will do the 1 to 2 mix like you do. I have brick stairs to repair and also a flagstone patio. I am not looking for perfection with the patio, I just don't want the weeds growing through the joints.
Hi Mike, I have large cobblestones edging my driveway, originally the contractor put mortar between each one. Now 7 years later all the mortar is falling out between the stones. I would like to put it back, should I wet it before and what mix to use ? Thanks....Jim..... Love all the videos. You are your own man !!!
Hi Jim, usually when they put cobblestone and lay it in concrete like curbs it all stays together, but if they are laid in sand they move and the mortar falls out, I don't wet it in that case but the idea is not to make a mess of it, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck thanks mike, you are the real deal... watch you all the time , what I like is you dont screw people over jobs
glad it does. thanks mike
I could never say for sure unless I seen it. but doing a job like that I would approach it like you would do body work on a car. I make sure the surface is clean and no loose debris. then wet it good and use 2 sand to 1 Portland and keep going over it till you get the desired effect. practice first on a old block. good luck mike
I could never say unless I seen it. but of course I add gravel to the portland mix for certain things. cement use is somewhat of an art. and everything must be taken into factor such as temperature, if it is in the sun or shade. time of year, ask the local guys in your area what they use. and all cement cracks. ususally I find the more rich cements cracks faster than a weeker mix. but then it falls apart faster,,,like I said everthing matters. thanks mike
Hey Mike. What's the difference between mortar and stucco. And when do you use them? Thanks
Excellent. Thanks for shearing.
Oscar Mendez thanks, check out my video," masonry tips for beginners," MIke Haduck --- it adds a little more to dealing with masonry thanks again, mike
I've Always Thought you Use Just Enough Powder Goods to Fill the Voids Between the Grains of Sand. You Can Measure the Void Ratio By Measuring How Much Water it Takes to Totally Saturate Clean Dry Sand. Around Here Mason Sand is About ⅓ Voids (Space Between Grains of Sand) So I Generally Mix 3 to 1. For Stone I Use a Shovel of Coarse Torpedo Sand in a Bucket of Mason Sand .Then Add Powder Goods About 1Part Cement to 3 parts Sand. You Can Tell When There's Enough Cement By the Way it Feels.
Hi John, after all these years I just know like playing a guitar chord at the right time, every job is a bit different, thanks Mike
I really needed this information! Thanks Mike!
thanks, I hope it helped. mike
Thanks Mike.
Good instruction
Thanks, Mike
oh, ok. Thanks. I am going to repair brick steps, I think it is a small enough job that I can do it myself. I'm not worried to much about it being perfect, just want it back together again. Also there are a lot of areas that need re-pointing. In one youtube video, the person added a little dish washing soap to the mix. He said it acted as a plastisizer. Ever hear of that? I won't be adding it to my mix though.
Wish you could talk about lime mortar and historic/ conservation of older homes ... materials like natural hydrologic lime mortat. NHL 3.5
Hi Wallace, there is a lot involved any more, but I will get to it , thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck I think it would be an interesting topic. Thanks!
glad it helped. thanks mike
Thank you for the info Mike!
Thanks Jeremy, Mike