You pay a lot of attention to detail and always try to do it right, to avoid problems later. I respect that. That's the way my friend Joe is, who works on my Olivers. I learned a lot from this video.
Nice looking phone screen photo of Othelia and that professional model sitting on it. Thanks for the memories of pain in the posterior happenings in rebuilding engines. We used a weed burner to warm the blocks for dry sleeves and CO2 (we had a Cokecola bottling plant that would supply us CO2 to chill the sleeves and also flush out A/C systems) to do the job. Great video series. And IT IS SUNDAY MORNING!!!
Good Morning Buddy I enjoy these longer videos. I think this is the third or the fourth engine I have watched you put together now never gets old lol. All the shortage crap is really getting old however. Time to push out of the excuses and start putting some hard honest work in to get us out of this mess. I was thinking the other day maybe all of the farmers should say sorry the corn and beans are all on back order this year haha might change perspective a little bit
Farmers could be so rich, if only we wanted to be. We could all sit on 10% of last year's production and drive the markets crazy. It makes me think of the old people that whine about being on a fixed income. Wow, wouldn't that be nice to know how much money you're going to have each month or year. I don't know what this year's yields will be, but if I work hard and have good growing conditions, we could see $4 corn again!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I am not sure if that withholding would work. The Dairy farmers dumped milk in the gutters in a union type price influencine for a gallon of milk. If I remember correctly, it did not work. Withholding grain? One would then see more ships bringing corn or beans to market and the crops some other country produces will then continue and our market prices would not make it back for years. It is just like oil, we are supposedly the #1 exporter of refined oil products, and rank at or near the top of oil producing. So what does that do for our pockets? Not one damned thing except making oil companies showing $80,000,000,000 profits, buying back their stock to inflate the value of their stock so more will invest in them. I apologize for probably stepping on some toes, but I have had 2 good jobs disappear, one in each industris listed above.
I like the detail you use on your engine rebuilds, helps me to understand each step and reason for what you do on each. I agree with you on the o-ring, doesn't make sense to put oil on the sleeve side where it seats. I certainly enjoyed this video, thanks Chris, have a nice remainder of Sunday and great week ahead.
I really like how you seam to take your time. You also give the idea you go at it relaxed a bit. Maybe it is just video editing. I do like your videos.
Thanks! Part of me wants to try some quick fix every time I hit a snag, but most of the time I wish I hadn't. I guess experience has helped my patience.
Making the effort to get it right will be beneficial in the long run bro. Have seen the dawn soap used on another chanel I follow with good results. Safe travels
I think you could use pipe lube the lubricate those o-rings. Should be able to find it in the plumbing department of any hardware store. It comes in fairly large containers but it’s readily available and cheap enough. Looking forward to the rest of this build.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I made my own out of a piece of threaded rod a broken drawbar and made a plate to go in the bottom to remove them and then i made me a installer that went across the bottom of the block and a some threaded rod and a piece that went across the top of the sleeve used it like a press to install the sleeves since I didn’t have a press big enough to do it and the local machine shop wanted $200 a sleeve to pull and install them
Chris I've used the John deere stuff it's OK. Permotex makes sleeve lube works well , used it on the neighbors 1650 when I overhauled it . Your showing us the proper way of installing parts . And yes red o ring on the bottom lol . Get some bad bearings for the crankshaft. From turkey creek farms be safe n thankful
If you’re careful you can go in and out of a couple different holes, a couple different times without incident. FYI, I use vegetable oil on sleeve orings. Seems to make it slide in easier without eating away at your rubbers.
I've never heard of the lube being shipped with the kit. I've been told by mechanics and shop manuals to use vegetable oil. For those that don't know, do not use motor oil! It will swell the rings and you may not be able to get them in.
You asked for comments... I don't endorse JD either especially since the right to repair issue. Their sleeve o-ring lube is good. Comes in a 1 Qt. Bottle I have had for decades. I like to set the block in front of the torpedo heater for an hr. to warm it so the o-rigs warm as they contact the block usally the sleeve will fall in with out pressure.
Unlike some youtubers, I'm not going to rip my viewers a new one in the comments for posting something that doesn't go along with what I say. I do prefer constructive criticism, and that is what you have, so comment away!
I never had much luck with dawn as a lubricant on those, it dries & gets sticky before your done, as far as the ring gaps, they make a small hand grinder to open those up if necessary, I use one when rebuilding car engines. thanks for sharing
I've got dawn commercial strength in my shop. Great for washing my hands, but I could see where it was reacting with the sleeve metal a little bit. It's definitely stronger than what the wife has in the kitchen. I'm sold on the Parker lube after using it.
Good grief Chris, that block repair is being a bear. I've had several of the 310s lower seal bores fixed and never had any problems like your running into. My local machine shop did it all in-house including making the replacement lower sleeve but it was a expensive repair. Seems like the last block cost me $200 per hole and that was probably 15 years ago. Keep up the good work. I'm thinking you had to round up some pastic-gauge to check oil clearance on the crank bearings?
Yep. I had one repair sleeve put in the 1600 block, the rest were good, so that one should go better. I think the sleeves were around $20 each, even with that I didn't have $200 a hole into it. My guy has been doing machine work basicall all his life, but hasn't had to do many of these. He gets a lot more automotive work. The plastigauge is in the next installment. Loads of fun there!
Hey Chris nothing every goes as excepted! We use the JD o-ring lube its very good stuff. I have never put these style liners in the freezer, like you said as long as everything is at room temp should be good. Even on the International engines we used to do at work just normal temp. When I did the Perkins I had the liners in the freezer and a heat lamp on the block. I am willing to bet you have a wrong size bearing in the set for the crank. I had a one broken oil ring in the set I got with my kit, Maibach’s made good on it and sent me another set.
Get sleeve soap from Deere..............It is way better than Dawn IMO. I just bought a new bottle either last summer or the one before, still had the old Deere logo yet and it is good stuff. I can get the part number if you want.
That's a good question. I like the dry sleeve for less chance of leaking coolant into the oil, but I feel the heat transfer is better with a wet sleeve. Between that and being able to clean the block up better, I think I'd stay with the wet sleeve. If I was going to redesign anything, it would be the connecting rods. A bigger top that would allow for a thicker wrist pin bushing would be a good start.
I've heard of some using it. I've also heard of oring failures from the wrong lube reacting with the rubber. Personally, I'll spend the money for the good stuff and hopefully get it right the first time.
The machine shop bored the block for the block saver sleeves??? Then said they couldn't chamfere the block sleeve combination??? If I understood you correctly, l'm calling BS and finding a new shop.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it is not fun. I got an email 2 weeks ago saying I had to give them my card number or they would delete my account. Now I got to go through a whole presses with google
Not that it makes that much difference and you seem to like real facts about things, it is definitely more than 23 grams to an ounce, actually 28.35 grams = 1 ounce.
That’s a great T shirt idea “Two holes is all I’m gettin done today”
I'm outta lube!
"If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all." You are to be commended for keeping your cool and seeing it through. We learned a lot.
I am impressed by your attention to details. Most shops would have just rammed it home and closed it up. You are a true craftsman Chris.
Thanks. That's probably why some shops can do it for 6 grand and another will charge 12.
You pay a lot of attention to detail and always try to do it right, to avoid problems later. I respect that. That's the way my friend Joe is, who works on my Olivers. I learned a lot from this video.
Thanks, Charlie!
Super slicker to the rescue !
I like to use crisco on the liner seals
Nice looking phone screen photo of Othelia and that professional model sitting on it. Thanks for the memories of pain in the posterior happenings in rebuilding engines. We used a weed burner to warm the blocks for dry sleeves and CO2 (we had a Cokecola bottling plant that would supply us CO2 to chill the sleeves and also flush out A/C systems) to do the job. Great video series. And IT IS SUNDAY MORNING!!!
Thanks, Gary
this video blew my mind for sure!
Fine job Chris. That's worth three atta boys
Thanks! My wife only gave me 2. 😆 🤣 😂
The Oliver gods were there to make sure you didn't end up with a view window 310!
Yep.
Excellent thoughtful work. I like the fact that you don't get in a hurry. Great information you are sharing here. I can't wait to hear it run.
Me too! I have plans for that day!
I always use vaselene on Orings and tap it in with a small piece of wood I never had problems with the Orings
It’s good to know there’s a reliable source of aftermarket, or oem parts for these
I think a lot of people don't realize the resources that are out there to keep the old machines going. A lot of it is just knowing where to look.
Good Morning Buddy
I enjoy these longer videos. I think this is the third or the fourth engine I have watched you put together now never gets old lol.
All the shortage crap is really getting old however. Time to push out of the excuses and start putting some hard honest work in to get us out of this mess. I was thinking the other day maybe all of the farmers should say sorry the corn and beans are all on back order this year haha might change perspective a little bit
Farmers could be so rich, if only we wanted to be. We could all sit on 10% of last year's production and drive the markets crazy. It makes me think of the old people that whine about being on a fixed income. Wow, wouldn't that be nice to know how much money you're going to have each month or year. I don't know what this year's yields will be, but if I work hard and have good growing conditions, we could see $4 corn again!
Everything at the grocery has gone through the roof. Farmers aren’t seeing any more profit. So my question is. Who is getting all that profit?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I am not sure if that withholding would work. The Dairy farmers dumped milk in the gutters in a union type price influencine for a gallon of milk. If I remember correctly, it did not work. Withholding grain? One would then see more ships bringing corn or beans to market and the crops some other country produces will then continue and our market prices would not make it back for years.
It is just like oil, we are supposedly the #1 exporter of refined oil products, and rank at or near the top of oil producing. So what does that do for our pockets? Not one damned thing except making oil companies showing $80,000,000,000 profits, buying back their stock to inflate the value of their stock so more will invest in them.
I apologize for probably stepping on some toes, but I have had 2 good jobs disappear, one in each industris listed above.
I like the detail you use on your engine rebuilds, helps me to understand each step and reason for what you do on each. I agree with you on the o-ring, doesn't make sense to put oil on the sleeve side where it seats. I certainly enjoyed this video, thanks Chris, have a nice remainder of Sunday and great week ahead.
Thanks!
Great video again on the assembly of 310. I like working on my own tractors and this is a great resource!
Thanks 👍
Cummins used to use vegetable oil it will not attack rubber oil rings 😊
I really like how you seam to take your time. You also give the idea you go at it relaxed a bit. Maybe it is just video editing. I do like your videos.
Thanks! Part of me wants to try some quick fix every time I hit a snag, but most of the time I wish I hadn't. I guess experience has helped my patience.
Making the effort to get it right will be beneficial in the long run bro. Have seen the dawn soap used on another chanel I follow with good results. Safe travels
It seems logical to put the sleeves in a freezer for a while before trying it.
I think you could use pipe lube the lubricate those o-rings. Should be able to find it in the plumbing department of any hardware store. It comes in fairly large containers but it’s readily available and cheap enough. Looking forward to the rest of this build.
It feels like it's going in slow motion, but it has been a good example of we we check these things.
I've used jb weld to fill cavation in the chamfer on caterpillar blocks many times. I use tire mounting lube on the o rings.
I've used jb in the same manner. This block actually had wear from the orings. You could see and feel a slight groove where each oring sat.
Just got done with my 1850 she’s basically completely mechanically restored.
Awesome! There's a tough sleeve to work with, in the Perkins that is. I've got the hydraulic puller for thode.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I made my own out of a piece of threaded rod a broken drawbar and made a plate to go in the bottom to remove them and then i made me a installer that went across the bottom of the block and a some threaded rod and a piece that went across the top of the sleeve used it like a press to install the sleeves since I didn’t have a press big enough to do it and the local machine shop wanted $200 a sleeve to pull and install them
Chris I've used the John deere stuff it's OK. Permotex makes sleeve lube works well , used it on the neighbors 1650 when I overhauled it . Your showing us the proper way of installing parts . And yes red o ring on the bottom lol . Get some bad bearings for the crankshaft. From turkey creek farms be safe n thankful
I always forget which oring goes on top and have to look it up each time. All the things I can remember, but that isn't one ofcthem.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris we Getting old lol
If you’re careful you can go in and out of a couple different holes, a couple different times without incident. FYI, I use vegetable oil on sleeve orings. Seems to make it slide in easier without eating away at your rubbers.
It's all about the chamfer.
I've never heard of the lube being shipped with the kit. I've been told by mechanics and shop manuals to use vegetable oil. For those that don't know, do not use motor oil! It will swell the rings and you may not be able to get them in.
You asked for comments... I don't endorse JD either especially since the right to repair issue. Their sleeve o-ring lube is good. Comes in a 1 Qt. Bottle I have had for decades. I like to set the block in front of the torpedo heater for an hr. to warm it so the o-rigs warm as they contact the block usally the sleeve will fall in with out pressure.
Unlike some youtubers, I'm not going to rip my viewers a new one in the comments for posting something that doesn't go along with what I say. I do prefer constructive criticism, and that is what you have, so comment away!
I never had much luck with dawn as a lubricant on those, it dries & gets sticky before your done, as far as the ring gaps, they make a small hand grinder to open those up if necessary, I use one when rebuilding car engines. thanks for sharing
I've got dawn commercial strength in my shop. Great for washing my hands, but I could see where it was reacting with the sleeve metal a little bit. It's definitely stronger than what the wife has in the kitchen. I'm sold on the Parker lube after using it.
Syl-glide, I’m pretty sure will work for lube on o-rings. I usually keep a tube of that around for a good gp assembly lube.
That's what the other Ross said. 😆 🤣 😂
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I thinks it’s actually called Astro-Glide.
Good grief Chris, that block repair is being a bear. I've had several of the 310s lower seal bores fixed and never had any problems like your running into. My local machine shop did it all in-house including making the replacement lower sleeve but it was a expensive repair. Seems like the last block cost me $200 per hole and that was probably 15 years ago. Keep up the good work. I'm thinking you had to round up some pastic-gauge to check oil clearance on the crank bearings?
Yep. I had one repair sleeve put in the 1600 block, the rest were good, so that one should go better. I think the sleeves were around $20 each, even with that I didn't have $200 a hole into it. My guy has been doing machine work basicall all his life, but hasn't had to do many of these. He gets a lot more automotive work.
The plastigauge is in the next installment. Loads of fun there!
Hey Chris nothing every goes as excepted! We use the JD o-ring lube its very good stuff. I have never put these style liners in the freezer, like you said as long as everything is at room temp should be good. Even on the International engines we used to do at work just normal temp. When I did the Perkins I had the liners in the freezer and a heat lamp on the block. I am willing to bet you have a wrong size bearing in the set for the crank. I had a one broken oil ring in the set I got with my kit, Maibach’s made good on it and sent me another set.
I bet it will get the comments section going. The crank issue that is.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I would think so.
Get sleeve soap from Deere..............It is way better than Dawn IMO. I just bought a new bottle either last summer or the one before, still had the old Deere logo yet and it is good stuff. I can get the part number if you want.
I really liked that Parker o ring lube. I think thats my go to from here on out
Go to the hydraulics shop and get Parker o-ring lube in the big tubes thats what i use for all o-rings stuff is magical
That's exactly what I did. They had to order it in, but I had it 2 days later.
That is the problem when you mix the AGCO O-rings with Arrow Sleeves. There is little different the manufacturing that can cause problems…
Yeah, live and learn.
Chris try Monaco tool company that’s where we got our block machining tools
I'll look them up for future reference. Thanks!
Unfortunately hub city in aberdeen closed down a few years ago. I'm sure they're made in a different location now.
I called the guy and bought them last year. He makes them for Reliance is what he told me.
Chris: if you have a chance to MAKE a new 310 block - What kind of sleeves would you use? Sleeveless or wet sleeve or dry sleeve 😊 Thank you
That's a good question. I like the dry sleeve for less chance of leaking coolant into the oil, but I feel the heat transfer is better with a wet sleeve. Between that and being able to clean the block up better, I think I'd stay with the wet sleeve. If I was going to redesign anything, it would be the connecting rods. A bigger top that would allow for a thicker wrist pin bushing would be a good start.
How many engines do you supposed you have rebuilt in your life? You do know your stuff.
Probably not as many as most would think. I'd say around a dozen. I helped with quite a few prior to doing them myself. Experience is a great teacher.
"Hands should do it." Hahahaha. Generous is key. How about Vaseline? It's grease. But had to wait for the right goo. Fun video. Eaglegards...
That's what she said. 😆 🤣 😂
I don't see where I can send a photo. I have a few tips to share with you. But a photo would make it more clear.
Hpocachris@gmail.com
Great video Chris. I love your mechanical videos.
I sent you an email.
Bailey
Do you have a video of rebuilding perkins 354 out of a white 2-105?
Sorry, I don't
Wouldn’t vasciline work for o ring lube? I recall watching mechanics use it
I've heard of some using it. I've also heard of oring failures from the wrong lube reacting with the rubber. Personally, I'll spend the money for the good stuff and hopefully get it right the first time.
Would a motorized deburring tool put a chamfer on the edge.
Possibly. Something like a dremel
Think there was almost some rooster sounds! 🤣🤣🤣.
I better move the swear jar to the workshop.
The machine shop bored the block for the block saver sleeves??? Then said they couldn't chamfere the block sleeve combination??? If I understood you correctly, l'm calling BS and finding a new shop.
It seems like there should be a way, but I'm no machinist either.
Great video. This is Eli. Someone hacked into my email and deleted all my stuff! I think even my TH-cam channel!
Dang! My daughter got 3 days off school the week before Thanksgiving because the district got hit by ransomware.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it is not fun. I got an email 2 weeks ago saying I had to give them my card number or they would delete my account. Now I got to go through a whole presses with google
Good luck!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Put those sleeves in the freezer.
I guess I should have watched the whole video before the freezer comment lol
Not that it makes that much difference and you seem to like real facts about things, it is definitely more than 23 grams to an ounce, actually 28.35 grams = 1 ounce.
My memory is slipping. You're right, I've got enough for another engine now!