Solid Tires, Thru Axles & TPU Tubes | GCN Tech Clinic
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2024
- Which group set should I upgrade to? Why is my TPU tube deflating overnight? Are thru axles worth the upgrade? All these tech questions and more are answered in this week's Tech Clinic. Ollie's flying solo this week but he's bringing all of his nerdy bike knowledge!
00:00 Welcome!
00:20 Ultegra or 105 DI2?
01:22 Do Dynaplugs rattle?
03:40 Why is my TPU tube going flat overnight?
04:49 Can I patch my TPU tubes?
05:40 Should I upgrade my wheels to thru-axles?
06:14 What’s the best solid tire solution?
08:20 Can I ride my 12 speed bike on a 11 speed cassette when indoor training?
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I just had 2 wisdom teeth removed during this off season (about 3g weight savings), is that enough weight savings that I'll be halfway decent riding my 30lb gravel bike on the road?
Edit to myself: Don't mix painkillers and TH-cam in the future.
Really pleased to hear your ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it advice’. We’re in danger of becoming consumers not cyclists 👍
I am myself struggling with the addiction. Thanks that I don't have a lot of money and everything is expensive. 😅
You're late man, you're too late.
Cycling industry is moved by fake claims and empty market promises to sell and sell again for many many years now.
Disc breaks, plastic wheels, plastic frames, 12 speed cassettes, wireless groups
Most of this stuff is a downgrade from the classic bikes and it will only drain your money.
For crying out loud, plastic bikes have a life spawn of 5 years, where did you ever see this with any other material? Not even Bambu bikes are this crap
Perplexing to see cycling media not endorse spending the money for a such an expensive and marginal upgrade. My only guess is Shimano must not be a GCN sponsor.
The "New Standards" drive me crackers. What makes it worse is getting "old Standards" is tricky/impossible. Give me strength!
It's a super important point, the focus should be on riding. Highend mechanical groupsets are amazing value 🙌
This was probably the best episode he’s done. Pragmatism and real world advice.
ERG mode is brilliant for things like Zone 2 sessions. I love letting my trainer keep me on track. It's also interesting to see the small variations in HR due solely to cadence, when power is constant.
I actually rode a test session recently, specifically to look at cadence versus HR. I found that any cadence below 75 rpm gave the same result (all the way down to 44 rpm, so that's good news for climbing), and going higher gave a slight increase. It was about 2 bpm increase at 83 rpm, and 4-5 bpm at 94 rpm.
My typical average cadence from road rides usually falls within 70-75 rpm, so apparently my body will naturally find its optimal cadence.
It can be great to for getting in the zone and tapping out the miles. it all depends on what you're looking for.
ERG mode works for me because it prevents me from wimping out on m training. There are times I just can't hold my cadence targets or can't hold on for the entire interval. Without ERG, I would likely just lighten up on the power to make it easier. With ERG, it keeps me more in the game mentally.
Just upgrade other bike to 12 speed or downgrade to 11 speed
I'm confused by ERG mode but unsure if my elite directo x trainer allows it or what software using
Running a 12-speed chain on an 11-speed cassette on a trainer using ERG mode and not shifting would be absolutely fine; the inner dimensions of 9, 10,11 and 12-speed chains are identical, so if you are not shifting then it will run over the different speed sprocket without issue. The opposite would probably not work though. The narrower gaps on a 12-speed cassette would not allow an 11-speed chain, as the chain would be too wide. The exception would be Sram 12 speed flattop chains though, as they use a larger diameter rollers that don't work on anything but SRAM 12 speed road cassettes, and also a narrower inner width.
There is the this bike part called the inner tube just put 1 in air up and ride, no plugs no sealant just good times and no mess!
Tubolito also do repair kits for their tubes. I recently changed to TPU tubes on my hybrid. I also got the repair kit for them.
I had a RideNow TPU with a hole SO TINY even with soapy water I couldn't find it. Immersion in a clear water bucket and with lots of patience I finally found it. It was enough to let the tire go much softer overnight.
I have Ride Now TPU tubes. I have not road outside in a month. Tires are still tight.
Great advice on the Ultegra 11 speed.
12 speed and electric group sets will mean zero speed gain to most people.
12 speed is great, but like you said for most people wouldn't feel a huge difference jumping onto a 12 speed bike. If ain't broke... don't fix it 🙌
@@gcntechdepends who you are, I just need single speed, I ride my 11 speed from complete stops in the 53 11 gear, though my Trek Emonda ALR build is getting 12 speed
I'm looking to buy:
SRAM red etap front and rear derailleur (for a project)
SRAM red etap axs (for Trek Emonda ALR)
Shimano tiagra (for folding bike build)
SRAM eagle axs (for enduro mountain bike, split between gamble XX1 or use X01 (only worried about crank strength))
So yeah might not afford build a bike this year lol
OP let me know how ride now are, I'm split between ride now and tubolito or what name is for tpu on my next bikes
Hi. For anthonyborlase, wanting bomb proof tyres. I would recomend Schalbe Marathon Plus. In umpteen years on one set I have had zero punctures. Makes them ideal winter tyres too, so you don't have to faff about in the rain and ice to get home from your training ride (samr for commuting).
Enjoy the ride.
Marathon or equivalents are very useful, eg in London, next to A13 on cycle lane covered in sharps from the road. But you do want 28C or wider. I've seen the 23C version shredded in a week, instead of a day for normal tyres. And the narrow versions are very uncomfortable and sluggish. Loved the 28C on a Tricross in and around London
@@cuebj A useful update. Our presenters are always telling us 28c are best so thats a tick then.
Marathons are a pain to install, but you won't need to replace them for at least 10.000 km.
Then they're a pain to remove.
I've had 3 sets of Marathons (Classic, Plus, and now Plus Tour), and only 1 puncture in their cumulated lifespan. And even then, I haven't seen anything pierce the rubber.
@@lbx5359 I think we can confirm that these are far better than solid tyres.
Incidentally, I didn't find much difficulty fitting them. I wonder what removal will be like.
Met a fellow on the road who was touring the Pacific coast from Alaska to the tip of Argentina. He was very happy with his Marathon Plus tires. Personally I don't mind an occasional puncture touring on good roads, but under tougher conditions or just the time constraints of commuting, those tires seem like a pretty good compromise.
i love dr O if it ain't broken don't fix it!!!!!!
Some TPU tubes do not have removable cores. If your tube is leaking from the core of such a tube, I'd contact the manufacturer and ask for a warranty replacement. They are not repairable as far as I know.
The DT Swiss RWS quick release are so good, I don’t think I would worry about converting to thru axles. They are plenty aggressive unless you are doing some insane gravel events or hitting jumps.
.....thanks Ollie for the very reasonable thoughts on upgrade to Di2 and Ultegra mechanical!! Very sound, sage advice!
You can convert from QR to a 9 mm front axle or 10 mm rear axle if alternative end caps are available for your hubs. It is the diameter of the drop out slots that are critical.
I did this for my older MTB and CX bikes. I have 240s on both those bikes and swapped out the end caps for the MTB hubs to run the RWS skewers.
For the road hubs, they do not recommend using the 9 and 10mm skewers, they do make the regular skewer style that uses the RWS. That’s what I used for my CX bike.
Yeah I wonder if Ollie got the wrong end of the stick on this question - or I have! 😅
I think they were asking if they could take the wheels off their QR bike and convert them to thru-axle in order to use them on a different (thru-axle) bike - whereas Ollie approached it that they wanted to convert the wheels AND the bike (the dropouts) to thru-axle.
@@rob-c.Yeah unless hub has adapter, I only know thru axle wheels convert to qr with just a skewer item
I’ll happily take that ultegra groupset if he doesn’t need it anymore
I've been using Ride Now TPU inner tubes for over a year and punctured twice in that time. I've simply used self adhesive patches (lezyne) and these work perfectly, not had any air loss after patching and inner tubes still going.
Why I'm tempted to grab Schwalbe tyres as I run over broken glass without puncture
5:06 : Park Tools GP-2 pre-glued patches work amazing for repairing TPU; replace the scuffing/sanding by cleaning the repair area with an alcohol pad (to remove any oils) apply patch and it's ready to use immediately... I've used a patched tube for the last several months and it loses no more air than the other TPU tube on my bike does. Plus those patches are so supple, lightweight and thin there's no way you could possibly feel them while riding even if you had two dozen of them scattered all over the tube...
Thanks for the advice
6:21 why not get touring tire? like i don't even remember when i got puncture that was caused by the lack of puncture resistance.
A heavy touring tyre is great for those looking for ultimate puncture protection, but they often have very bad rolling resistance - It's all about finding the happy middle ground 🙌
@@gcntech sure but some of the newer ones have pretty good rolling resistance also while still having great puncture resistance.
Good question; however this is a mainly performance channel, so the weight and lack of performance is a killer for most GCN viewers.
@@WerdnaLiten sure but that viewer specifically said that they don't care about weight that much so I figured that maybe they just don't like road tires.
I'm happy with my 700x32 Schwalbe Marathon green guard, for daily commuting and going a bit longer on weekends, as well as some light gravel. I find them the perfect compromise for a 'do it all' bike.
Odd coments from and industry specialist about erg mod.. only today o felt good and increased the difficulty/ power demand during my session by simply taping the plus button 😂
DT Swiss do 10mm RWS thru axles which can used to replace quick release skewers but you need matching 10mm end caps for the hubs. I use them on an old Giant TCX with DT Swiss wheels, they are definitley stiffer than QR's. I get much less disc brake rub when out of the saddle.
Had to say I never felt flex on my qr wheels but maybe as I built them
I recently ordered a giant tcr advanced 2 disc pro compact 2022 which comes with the Shimano 105 gear set. I specifically wanted to go with mechanical and not spend all the extra money on electronic and having to carry around more batteries. I already have Garmin wattage pedals, a bicycle computer, head/tail lights... how many batteries are we supposed to carry and then there goes all the weight savings. :( People thought I was nuts for not getting the electronic shifting, but no thanks... I guess I am old school in that way.
They are called quick release for a reason. Thanks again for the informative videos.
When changing from already lightweight Conti Supersonic inner tubes to latex inner tubes, I always first glue in the valve with Pattex Power repair, as ist stays flexible (in contrast to e.g. bolt fixing liquid) and works like a sealing compound, and it kills a possible reason for air losses.
7:27 just get a tire with puncture protection. Conti and Schwalbe city, touring tires are cheap and bombproof.
Absolutely; lots of touring cyclists use these. Not sure your average GCN viewer would like the weight and loss of performance though.
6:15 see here. The question was from a commuter/touring type of cyclist
Those Schwalbe Mondials are almost puncture proof. I've ridden them all over Seattle with the broken glass, potholes. My Ford Truck has gotten punctures, but the bike never did.
I'm not saying it's impossible, but I am saying they are great and I highly recommend.
Zwift one hub allows you to ride different bikes with different cassettes on the same trainer without having to swap cassettes over. Makes getting on the trainer a lot easier in my opinion
Agreed! I was thinking the same thing.
Marco should definitely remove the 11-speed cassette and replace with a 12-speed version. Only downside is that he might have to invest in a torque wrench if he doesn't have one capable of 40Nm already.
I'd suggest to him perhaps selling whatever trainer he has and getting a Zwift Hub one instead, with virtual shifting. That way he can swap around however he pleases with zero configuring or mechanical changing needed. That's what I've done now, previously being in this predicament.
I have a Wahoo Kickr Snap wheel on trainer. Much cheaper and it does the job just fine - I really don't understand why people want something more than this at considerable extra cost.
Regarding repairing TPU tubes, I have been running an experiment for the past couple months. I got a puncture in one of my RideNow TPU tubes. When I went online to check out the repair videos it seemed to me that repairing TPU tubes was a less than ideal process using the patches provided by manufacturers. So I tried something else. I cut a patch out of 3M VHB double sided tape. This tape provides serious bonding strength and they are flexible and stretch. There are different versions of 3M VHB tape. Some are made for specialized situations with certain materials. I just used the "all purpose" version. I applied it to the TPU tube after cleaning the area with isopropyl alcohol. For good measure, I used a clamp to press on the patch for several hours. I don't know if that was necessary as 3M VHB tape bonds instantly. I didn't reinstall the tube. Instead, I pumped it up to a normal size and have been watching it for the past several months. It is still inflated! My next step is to install it in my tire, pump it up, and see how it does. I will need to cover the exposed side so it doesn't adhere to the tire. I'll probably use a very light piece of cloth as that will be able to flex and expand as the tube is inflated. I probably could just cover the exposed side with talcum powder to "kill" the adhesive. But, whatever. Anyway, I thought I'd share this as if it works out it would be a solid, inexpensive way to repair TPU tubes. Cheers, Luigi
3:40 TPU on rim brakes?? Brave guy. Wouldn’t run them on disc brakes (anymore), yet alone on rimbrakes 💣💥
Crafted to keep you dry from the outside (rain) as well as inside (transpiration) due to the combination of full waterproofness and high breathability. Hey Alex and Ollie found this description on the GCN X AGU Prime Rain Jacket. I thought to research what was "transpiration" to be sure of its meaning. Oddly this is related more to plants then people. : )
6:55 I bought a set of tannus semi mousses with tubes for my mtb and they are awesome, I almost always get at least 1 puncture every ride, so far no punctures even without slime in them.
I've had very good luck with Continental Gatorskins. I've had no more than 3 flats in 15 years of commuting on them.
Tech tip: one can use saliva on valve to detect air bubbling out. Soap water is for cases when you have water, soap and are willing to spend time preparing soap water. Bonus tip - collect soap water after bathing and use for leaky valve diagnostics.
Gross tip of the week. :)
Collecting soap water after a bath is a bold move 👀
Anyone else recently watched Saltburn and is now slightly traumatized by the collecting bath water suggestion. 😐
putrid lol
I’ve heard of Brides in the Bath (serial killer), now we have Bikes in the Bath 😂
Not all TPU valves are removable. If they aren’t removeble, you shouldn’t try to tighten them. Tubolito for example are not removable. I had a valve leak in a Tubolito tube and given the price, I contacted them and they replaced it. It’s a warranty defect. So first check to make sure you can actually tighten them before you try. And if you cannot, contact the manufacturer for a replacement.
Dynaplug is absolutely the best device for plugging a puncture in the tire tread. The plugs are permanent and simple to install.
Good answer about not upgrading from 11-speed mechanical Ultegra. Age 68, I do have 11-speed mechanical Ultegra (just back from trhe global recall) and 9-speed Ultegra. The main improvement over 52/42 Biopace with Suntour Ultra Six freewheel from early 1980s is I can grab lower gears to go up 25% slopes with my 50/34 chainrings and larger big sprockets at the back - but that's due to wider capacity derailleurs than Campag 980. For all hills in SE London that I go up regularly, my 7-speed with no front changer on an Orbea urban bike is plenty. Go for a set of very good wheels and tyres instead
My brass heads on my dynaplugs always came off when fitted. Rattled around while riding, a real pain. I always fished them out, and tbh I now just don't use dynaplugs. Maybe I'm being too rough with them, but the brass head always fell off when I pulled the tool out of the tyre.
I am riding Ultegra 11-speed mechanical and while the electronic upgrade might be 'bling', I have not been able to find an actual performance related reason to upgrade. My current setup just works exceedingly well.
Good useful advice
Glad we could help 🫡
Multiple bikes with different speed cassettes can work great with the Zwift hub trainer
I have a 11 speed shimano cassette on my trainer and use a 12 speed sram chain without issue on ERG mode 👍
i had a dynaplug blow out after a couple of weeks (on the front wheel). super sketchy, down a big bridge in traffic....get home with the plug, then remove it and add a proper patch
Haven’t gone through all the comments but I run butyl tubes (thinking about getting TPU) and have a plastic liner from my local bike store that fits between the tyre and the tube.
Works extremely well where the liner is but I do still get the occasional sidewall puncture.
Hope that helps.
Run 2 layers tubeless tape, Cinturato Velo tires and Cyclocross TPU tubes, don't get the roadie ones. This is the new hotness for 100% puncture proof commuting.
Any vinyl beach ball/ kids swimming pool patch kit works fine for TPU tubes. Also, Ridenow TPU tubes are great, and they cost the same as buytl tubes. #longtimetpurider l
@gnctech In Alex' upcoming TPU maintenance/repair episode, PLEASE test using a patch from an old TPU tube and clamped/pressed on for 8 hours using standard drugstore SUPERGLUE. And at least here in the US, hardware stores carry very tiny single-use tubes in a pack of several (and available on Amazon). So if you use one then you're not dealing with a dried-up, clogged old superglue tube later that has become useless.
In the late 80s I had some Zuez Airless tyres, and they lasted a good time and had a fair rolling resistance, but you felt every little bump. I have tried the Temu ones but found them very slow and not lasting long.
I have a hunch that not all TPU tubes have valve cores that can be tightened or replaced.
You're right, RideNow is one of them. They're basically glued shut. I once tried removing one from a scrapped RideNow tube, but to no avail.
Dynaplugs are ace! However I have had one brass bit come loose and rattle around inside the tyre. Still held pressure though regardless!
Yes I've also had a brass tip come off and rattle, still wouldn't use anything else as they just work and are really easy to use.
Todays episode had alot of bodge questions. I wouldn't be surprised if next week we had a question asking "if I can using rimbrake rubber pads in my disc brake caliper to stop my carbon wheels?"
This might come as a surprise to some but things do tend to be designed for a specific purpose. I mean I did just last week try riding my tri-cycle with 1 wheel and Im surprised that it DIDNT work.
To be fair the question about converting the hubs, I think they were asking if they could take the wheels off their QR bike and convert them to thru-axle in order to use them on a different (thru-axle) bike - as opposed to them wanting to convert the wheels AND the bike (the dropouts) to thru-axle. I might be wrong, but nothing in the question said they wanted to touch their dropouts.
Seconding every word Ollie's comment about solid tyres. I tried Tannus for a couple of months and they were awful. Slow, incredibly harsh, and the one time I tried to ride them when it was very wet they were super sketchy.
Supple tyres are the way to go, comfort is key 👌
I think Schwalbe makes an airless tube with some sort of styrofoam like material. It's getting pretty popular I think on cargo, delivery, rental, city bikes. Not for roadies yet though.
Solid tires from Tannus are pretty good in my opinion.
Surely if you get a sidewall puncture that doesn't seal as it's to big etc won't that affect the structural integrity of the tyre wall so you should really replace the tyre rather than patch the inside?
Thanks for more info on TPU inner tubes! I have a question though: I am trying to use them with my 80mm high wheels on my TT-bike. But my valve extensions don't really work with them. The original valves that come with the new TPU tube are kind of glued to the plastic stems. And after I removed the valve and insert the valve extension, the stem is really not strong enough and breaks easily when you screw it in to the end. The result is, that I have broken several of those plastic stems. The ones that I did not break are not sealed properly and lose air quickly. Frustratingly, I have gone back to my Butyl inner tubes on the TT bike. Any tips you can share? Are there TPUs with sturdier metal stems? #askgcntech
You can replace the valve core on the new plastic valves. Heat the stem up with a hair dryer, grab it with pliers with a rag in the jaws to protect the stem, then twist the valve off with a presta valve tool. You will hear a crack, unthread it. Clean it out then put your new valve in with purple thread locker. You need to use thread locker or glue or it will not work.
Run flat liners provide a pretty poor ride quality if you have to use them and are next to impossible to get out of a tubeless tire. Go 'old school' and use tubes if your hole can't be sealed with a plug, and carry a piece of sidewall from an old tire in case your sidewall is slashed.
I've had 2 TPU tubes with slow leaks. In both cases it was the valve. In both cases the valve was non-replaceable. This is a pain because not only do you have to throwaway a perfectly good tube but also go through the unnecessary pain of removing and replacing the inner tube plus the cost of a new tube. I'd strongly suggest only buying TPU tubes that come with a replaceable valve core but be careful, not all tubes from the same manufacturer are the same when it comes to the replaceability of the valve core eg Offbondage 35g vs Offbondage 39g, if the valve core is replaceable it likely states that fact on the box. Best regards.
actually, it happened to me too, I have Ridenow TPU tubes and I got a tiny crack on the valve and it was the source of the leak, patch it up with electrical tape and coat it with a super glue
You can replace the valve core on the new plastic valves. Heat the stem up with a hair dryer, grab it with pliers with a rag in the jaws to protect the stem, then twist the valve off with a presta valve tool. You will hear a crack, unthread it. Clean it out then put your new valve in with purple thread locker. You need to use thread locker or glue or it will not work.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll be sure to try that next time I have a leaky valve on a 'non-removable valve' although rather than reuse the valve core I'll first try fitting a better quality valve of which I have a few. Best regards @@___Bebo___
You Can adjust ERG up/Down during the session!
#askgcntech, I had the problem with tpu deflating over night, I completely check for puncture or issue with the valve using water, and found nothing. But then one day while the biking was standing there at home and I was near, the valve suddenly started leaking air massively. I was pretty scared of that happening while riding. Any advice on that? More worrisome the overnight deflation happen with 3 different tubes (same brand)
10psi and it nearly "goes flat?" How low a PSI you runnin?
The only reason why many of us are on disc brakes are the thru axles
Hi #askgcntech :)
Can I hang my bike with "pedal-wallhooks" if I use a pedal based powermeter or will the constant axial strain cause damage, inaccuracies or L/R balance problems?
what bike and pedals have you got?
i'd imagine that if this can cause a problem, then standing on them while you're riding would really mess them up
@@chrisdavidson911 I want to buy Favero Assioma Shi, with an Ultegra body. (Don't have them yet)
But that's not the same.
First of all: The way these hangers work, there isn't only a radial force on the strain gauge, there is also an axial force (a pulling force horizontally away from the crank arm).
And 2nd: The other difference, hanging emits a (ever so tiny) constant strain for up to days in the exact same position.
And working with precision tools for about 5 years I know, that precision tools are very easy to damage. And I don't want to have a incorrect powermeter on my bike.
Just looking for experience or insight on this :)
@@silvanpluss4556 indeed.
Aren't the pedals still on a shaft between 2 tapered bearings, which would be supporting all side forces etc?
1:20 Chain crossing 😮
Hi, GCN Tech Crew. My road bike has an 11/34 cassette; my indoor trainer has an 11/28 cassette. When I ride my bike outdoors, shifting is very smooth and works well. However, when I put my bike on the trainer, the shifting is very clunky and sometimes skips. I’ve tried adjusting the derailleur, but can’t seem to quite get everything aligned. The research I’ve done suggests I should be able to just put my bike on the trainer and go, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. Any suggestions? Should I just get an 11/34 cassette for my trainer? Thanks! #AskGCNTech
I see a few problems here:
1. Your cassettes have a considerable tooth count difference.
2. Your B-tension gap was never adjusted.
3. Your chain is actually too long for the 11-28T cassette.
Solution: Get a second chain for the 11-28T cassette and adjust the B-tension gap whenever you're switching between your trainer and rear wheel or get a second 11-34T cassette for the trainer.
Hi, all at #askgcntech. Love the show.
Tech-nique rather than tech-nical question if that's allowed. Riding in a fast-paced group, is it better to make small speed adjustments by freewheeling or by continuing to spin the pedals and feathering your brakes? What do you think when you're doing fast tempo in a group and you hear a lone freewheel buzzing in the line ahead? Looking for opinions.
Thanks!
#askgcntech currently have a 53-39 on the front of my tt bike. Often wondered about upgrading to a 56-44 as in some flat tt’s i’m spinning out on slight downhill sections in top gear. Should i just save my legs or try to become the next fillippo ganna or MvP?! 😂 bit of context…i’m a grinder/masher and don’t typically have a high cadence!
#askgcntech Hi GCN team, I've recently got a new temporary job which means I'll be driving to work instead of cycling, so my commuter bike will go unused for 1-2 years. How is it best to prepare the bike for long term storage, and is it worth doing any maintenance while it's being unused to protect the components? I was thinking of doing a deep clean and lubing the chain, and then leaving it untouched until I need it again. It'll be stored in a dedicated bike shed in my garden, in the UK. I have Shimano 105 mechanical and the components currently have plenty of life in them. Many thanks
Or get the caps to convert the thru axle wheels to quick release. I run these.
Not all hubs have the ability to do this.
#askgcntech. Love your content, guys and Manon. No battery lasts forever. That said, roughly how long does a Di2 battery last (just roughly-no, how long is a piece of string answer, please) and is it hard and/or costly to replace it? Thanks in advance.
Can't believe the advice on TPU tubes. Most of them lose at least 10psi overnight and many a lot more. It is a continuous tube of plastic, glued together close to the valve. The gluing process is poor & they leak at the join. Until they perfect this, don't bother.
I've not found that. On the other hand, valves not being seated properly HAS been a thing for me with some RideNows.
clear stem RideNows are pretty strong that area. The material is one single piece not bonded like older models.
#askgcntech - Hi Ollie, I’m planning to buy a pair of high performance disc brake wheel. Deda Elementi RS4DB Vs Zipp 353 NSW - which one would you recommend ?
#askgcntech Hi! I have a problem with my saddle, my bike has a non-round seatpost. The seatpost is straight in the bike, but my seat tilts slighty left.
Piggybacking off today’s 11 speed vs. 12 speed trainer question, would it be possible to use a Shimano bike on a trainer with a Campagnolo cassette if both bikes are 11 speed and you have a KMC chain with the Shimano group set? The chain claims to be compatible with all three manufacturers, so it seems like it might be fine. Thoughts? #askgcntech
The problem is that the spacing between the cassette cogs is different, so while the derailleur pulleys might align properly in one gear, it won't be aligned properly when you shift to another. The total width of the 12-spd cassette is the same as the 11-spd cassette - just more gears in between. The only good option is to either swap cassettes, or go with the new Zwift Hub One smart trainer with the single sprocket, where you use its "virtual shifting" instead of using the rear derailleur to shift gears.
It might be OK.
11 speed is interchangeable between all 3 manufacturers. (the same cannot be said for 12 speed.) The cassette spacing is the same and the chains are the same. You might need to adjust the cable tension slightly. The only thing you can't mix at 11 speed is shifters and derailleurs.
#askgcntech What do you think about upgrading from 105 mechanical to 105 di2 or ultegra di2?
Daddy on GBMN answered the interchange of a 12 speed chain on an 11 speed block different, stating that he couldn’t see it being an issue. I use a 12 speed chain on my road bike on my wahoo Kickr with an 11 speed block. I’ve spent tens of hours on the trainer without an issue. I am now doubting the wisdom of this.
Shimano 12 speed chain will work with 11 speed cassette. The problem arises when you try to use 12 speed cassette with 11 speed rear derailleur or vice versa as cable pull ratios are different on both Sram and Shimano.
TPU tubes not so expensive if you get them from Ali
my tpu innertube going flat overnight it doesn't leak from the valve or the body i guess its just the material
Ollie, are you kidding??? Except for SRAM axs, all of the 12 speed chains have the same gauge as the 11 speed. You could safely use them with an 11 sp. cassette. I'm using 12 speed Dura ace chains on my 11 speed bikes, because they are fast and durable, even shifting speed is a bit better (maybe placebo effect). Btw, appreciate you're advising not to upgrade to 12 sp. electronic gruppo, until 11 sp. mechanical is in good condition.
they have the same pitch (half inch), but the gauge (width) differs.
@@oliverbridgewood3929 yes, but marginally, basically unnoticeably.
#askgcntech
Hi tech gurus, I'm constantly riding on the nose of my saddle even in the most forward position of the saddle. Saddle tilt is around 5⁰ .Frame fits me according to the manufacturer (480 mm st and I'm 168cm). Is it the inherent way that i ride or is the sizing of the frame wrong?. Thanks in advance.
Most beginners uses incorrectly the saddle. Also the saddle has to be horizontal or slightly leaning forward.
A good start is horizontal and in the middle, but feel free to try all adjustments until YOU feel comfortable. Try it on different rides. Long distance and uphill will give a different feel. @dtibor5903
If riding your saddle in the middle doesn't feel comfortable, it might be, that your saddle is to wide and not fitting the width of you sit bones. Its worth trying different widths in a shop.
But what's your frames seat post angle, top tube, reach, seat post setback?
Asuming your seat height is correct you're probably riding in your body's most efficient position, but who knows what bike frame you're riding. Some roadies are adapting the MTB trend of 78° seatpost angles
Sitting forward on the saddle can be a symptom of the saddle too high. You move forward to attempt to reduce the reach to the pedals.
"The head isn't very deep" 😂😂😂
trying to move my front derailleur in to the big ring is extremely stiff, going back into the small is fine. the actual mechanism can be moved with my fingers, so its not stuck. I've also made sure its not the limit screw. no obvious restrictions is the cable routing. is there something im missing? #askgcntech
What front derailleur is this? Best if you mention its model number.
#askgcntech Hi, I'm swapping my 12-32 11 speed cassette for an 11-36 11 speed. Do I also need to change my chain.
Thanks guys 😁👍🚴♂️
How can you upgrade to through axles, if the frame itself is QR?
You would need to do some serious bike hacking... this is why we don't think it's worth the faff
You could just buy a TA fork. Most benefits of TA comes from added stiffness.
You generally don't need to have that stiffness on the rear of the bike.
@@2ball434 ok, forks can be replaced. The rear dropout however stays.
@@simonm1447 imho yeah, qr still has its benefits especially in the rear, the ease of remove the rear wheel trumps any benefit in stiffness.
TA forks provide better stiffness which leads to more confident steering and responsiveness in the sprints.
Why? What do you hope to gain by going from QR to thru axles on a bike (and likely wheels) that isn’t designed for thru axles?
#askgcntech What's the advantage of boa-style fastenings on cycling shoes? They don't look as aero as velcro, and surely weigh more than laces. Why don't other types of shoe use them?
From what I know, they allow shoe tension fine-tuning, which is especially true if your shoes are equipped with the following dials:
IP1 (push to engage, turns both ways, pull for quick-release)
Li2 (works the same as the IP1, but has a lower stack height)
S2 & S3 (only turns in both directions)
Other footwear beyond cycling use BOA dials too, such as running shoes, golfing shoes, snowboarding boots, etc. It's not just limited to footwear too, even things like helmets and medical braces use them.
#askgcntech
Hello Alex and Ollie, I would like to know why single sided power meters be it crank or pedal based are on the left side? Thanks.
Cheaper to buy and easier to install on the left side. The right side has a spider to hold the chainring(s) and not all spiders are compatible with all crank arms and/or chainring sizes. Plus, the left side only needs to match the length of the crank arm when you buy an arm-based power meter.
Oh no! Everyone abandoned Ollie!
I think as far as the TPU tubes, never pay over $5. I have been using and buying them for more than a year from Aliexpress. I sure most cyclist have heard of it. AT that cost and the fact no-one can tell the type of tube you're running. You would have to be MAD to pay so much for the same thing. Not everyone has 4 bikes in the $10,000 range. Nor do most people ride more than 5000 miles a year. I need an episode were the bargain are found, identified, researched, and a link in the description. But no at $40 a tube. Just NO thanks.
I agree. I buy my Cyclami TPU tubes online from China for $1.87 each and they even include a patch kit. The first expensive TPU tubes I bought both flatted. The Cyclami tubes I have on now have over 4000 miles on them no problems.
I once plugged a sidewall hole with 6 Dynaplugs, the tire held air for the life of the tire.
Awesome! That's the jobs of tubeless 🙌
Ollie, could you do a video about how you do intervals without ERG mode? If I am doing 30/15s for example, I need a gradient to go hard so maybe Alpe du Zwift but in the easy part, I can‘t go as easy as required because it‘s still 7%. On other routes, it could happen that I hit a negative gradient when I have to go hard. I can‘t imagine how it should be possible without ERG mode.
Excuse me, this is an Ultegra 12 speed di2 groupset through the di2 11 speed generation, which already has wireless Duals and an unsurpassed clear operation of the rear derailleur, paired with an auto-adjusting front (frame) according to the position of the chain on the rear sprockets. You only have to try once how it works now and you will never want to go back to a mechanical group again. + the range of 12 speeds will be smoother
I strongly disagree with the statement that this upgrade makes no sense!
go ahead then, spend your money how you like. Ollie was asked for his opinion and suggested not to bother (and he wouldn’t) as the price of the upgrade, isn’t worth it, for him. If you feel it is, go ahead.
@@a1white oh, thx bro. I really missed these words(
Does carbon fiber get brittle in really cold weather, ie below freezing?
I don't think so, since it's used in space and also for aircraft wings (787, A350, C Series). Aluminium also has no low temperature brittleness
@@simonm1447 Thank you so much. Love GCN....you guys rock cycling.
@@alanstuckert4513 well, I'm not CGN (even if I have the same name like one of their members) but you're welcome
Is that thro axel question for real ?
It’s crazy. Why would you try and convert it. Nothing wrong with QR, just tighten them correctly
@a1white is it even possble to convert standard dropouts to thro axles without major frame surgery?
@@Bustergonad9649 It's impossible, I won't even bother attempting it. If somebody must use thru-axle wheels, they need to get a disc brake frameset with closed dropouts.
So far I had 2 punctures on Tpu tubes. Both were slow leaks. If that is the way they puncture, that is awesome
The 12 speed chain is narrower than an 11 speed chain, it'll cause a lot of wear by having the chain getting sucked/jammed onto the cassette teeth..
TPU Tubes are NOT compatible with rim brakes ! The heat damages the TPU an makes it lose air. (Tubolito for example explicitly say so an the packaging)
Tubolito has two types, the heavier one is thicker and is more suitable. I remember seeing it before.
If the tube is 35 grams and up it will work with rim brakes. The sub 24 gram ones don't. They do, but you have to alternate your brakes and not heat up the rim.
Ollie is the best presenter please please get rid of Alex!
Brutal.
Is Manon in hiding since the motorbike outcry, or is it just coincidence she's not been seen since.retorical question.
Manon is off cooking up some great videos behind the scenes... she'll be back soon 👀
What's this motorbike outcry?
What a BS and only publicity ... Even the haircut is AI generated 😢
You avoided some of the questions, and some answers where bad.
Stop hating solid tyres, they are marvelous. Yes you need to warn the comfort will be gone but they're not rubbish and they work better than anything yet.
Opposite to you I've being using them 3 years in 100km/60 miles long rides and I got plenty of nails and screws stabbing them which would cause me the need to call someone to pick me up wherever I was , but thanks to the tannus I never had to, just remove the bloody piece of metal that stabbed my wheel (people is nasty for launching this shit on the roads) and good to go again.
Regarding the rolling resistance and being slower is just if you are weak 😅 I got my speed back again when I did the switch in couple of weeks. People with normal tires won't drop me out but I can easily every time they need to stop 😂😂😂
Awesome to hear that solid tyres work for you. This is the beauty of cycling, we can all find out own style. Solid tyres are great for those that want 100% maintenance free riding but the lack of grip and comfort can really put others off. Alex got his hands on some in a previous video 👉th-cam.com/video/GAbj67HUzf0/w-d-xo.html - Keep doing you and it's great to hear the other side of the discussion 🙌
No reason to come off as aggressive. I would agree with with you. I use solid tires too. My opinion is that they took the worst and cheapest tires from the link they gave, and then was surprised. Not saying the presenters would be happy about them either way, but at least let a fair comparison play out.
#askgcntech
Ey up. Can I stuff a standard road 700c butyl inner tube into a 650b tyre (47mm in my case, tubeless obvs) in a roadside emergency? Or must I drag around a bulky 650b-specific tube on my adventures