Step 7 should be, affix the mounting plate bolts to the rim cylinder. Also, no mention of cutting down the connecting bar if required depending on door thickness.
Great demonstration video - should add that a utility knife should be used to score the area being chiseled to prevent wood breaking off and making an unsightly finish. Always sand smooth after so finish paint can be applied. 7/10
This video will help me fit my lock. It shows that the 32 mm diameter hole goes right through the door but there is still space for the backing plate two wood screws to be screwed in. One must work accurately here because there is not a lot of space! What is the minimum thickness of the door required to fit this lock? Thanks.
Would be better to make pilot holes for your screws before drilling them in (mark positions with a bradawl, then use a 2mm drill). And chiselling is better done with a wooden mallet than a steel hammer. But, a very useful detailed set of instructions
This only covers the carpentry. The difficulty of adjusting the length of the connecting rod isn’t mentioned. I had to use a metal saw to shorten mine but you can use a pair of wire cutters (see the East End Carpenter video). It’s the most difficult thing to do and if you don’t know how long to make it, it’s a bit scary trying to guess. Essential information. My Yale night lock is identical to this one.
Overall reasonably good, but if this chap is a qualified carpenter he needs a refresher course! Done? Really? Either the lock body is not level or the keep isn't! The fit around the keep/staple is very poor, no attempt to match the shape to the architrave. Grabber screws to fix it to the door, really! What's wrong with the screws supplied with all locks? No pilot holes, door not wedged whilst working on it. Poor chiselling technique, (with a blunt chisel) I could go on. I would also suggest using a marking gauge would help accuracy and neatness when setting out for the housings. Fitted at a 'comfortable height? Normally between 1200 to 1500mm from the floor. The VoiceOver is the best part.
Instruction good but technique very poor, marking out should be done from both sides and rebate for lock marked from centre line. Edges of lines for chisel section should be scored with knife to guide chisel to avoid poor execution as shown. Lock tab will need cutting depending on door thickness and NEVER use drywall screws in timber as they have no shear strength.
Brilliant vid! And there is no way I will not remember my drill and chisel safety until my dying days!
That's very helpful I don't know how to install one of my locks but now that I have learnt it here.
Thanks very much
The only vid I could find using the old-style P77 Nightlatch. Very useful!
Thanks I will use this to help me on fitting mine, made things alot more easier and better to understand
Excellent video and clear diction in the commentary
Great diction from the lady and very calming 10/10
Step 7 should be, affix the mounting plate bolts to the rim cylinder. Also, no mention of cutting down the connecting bar if required depending on door thickness.
Stupid video
Great demonstration video - should add that a utility knife should be used to score the area being chiseled to prevent wood breaking off and making an unsightly finish. Always sand smooth after so finish paint can be applied. 7/10
Great! After watching this video got good idea of how to fix it
Thanks a lot guys! Very detailed instructions with safety precautions as well.
Excellent, thank you so much. Kapil, South Africa
Thank you best demo presented
This video will help me fit my lock. It shows that the 32 mm diameter hole goes right through the door but there is still space for the backing plate two wood screws to be screwed in. One must work accurately here because there is not a lot of space! What is the minimum thickness of the door required to fit this lock? Thanks.
Thanks for your video.
VERY VERY USEFUL. THANKS A LOT
Nice and clear and you great help
Would be better to make pilot holes for your screws before drilling them in (mark positions with a bradawl, then use a 2mm drill). And chiselling is better done with a wooden mallet than a steel hammer. But, a very useful detailed set of instructions
Excellent video: well thought through and presented.
Good video thankyou
Excellent demo :0 Great Job X
Great video, do you have one for upvc doors?
thank you
Remember your chisel safety.
What about the locking rod if it's too long a bit of a major detail to miss!
same with the cylinder screws?
This only covers the carpentry. The difficulty of adjusting the length of the connecting rod isn’t mentioned. I had to use a metal saw to shorten mine but you can use a pair of wire cutters (see the East End Carpenter video). It’s the most difficult thing to do and if you don’t know how long to make it, it’s a bit scary trying to guess. Essential information. My Yale night lock is identical to this one.
good detail video
excellent thumbs up
Let's use dry wall screws !
I need to twist the key halfway backwards to get it out after locking . Someone can tell me why. Thanks
Remember your drill safety!
very annoying.. ahh!
Did you see how many cuts he had on his hands 😂. However a very good video.
@@tippet262626 ha ha, he only practices drill safety when there is a film crew present...
Overall reasonably good, but if this chap is a qualified carpenter he needs a refresher course! Done? Really? Either the lock body is not level or the keep isn't! The fit around the keep/staple is very poor, no attempt to match the shape to the architrave. Grabber screws to fix it to the door, really! What's wrong with the screws supplied with all locks? No pilot holes, door not wedged whilst working on it. Poor chiselling technique, (with a blunt chisel) I could go on. I would also suggest using a marking gauge would help accuracy and neatness when setting out for the housings. Fitted at a 'comfortable height? Normally between 1200 to 1500mm from the floor. The VoiceOver is the best part.
Helpful vedio but the H&S is an over kill...😠
Sharp chisles always help. This one aint.
If you want a secure door get a metal door
Yeah dont tighten the bit by turing on the drill if you value the skin on your hands.
Instruction good but technique very poor, marking out should be done from both sides and rebate for lock marked from centre line. Edges of lines for chisel section should be scored with knife to guide chisel to avoid poor execution as shown. Lock tab will need cutting depending on door thickness and NEVER use drywall screws in timber as they have no shear strength.
what the the worst hand skills i have ever seen on youtube. think the best bit is the angle the screws went in.
By his hand wounds I can tell he doesn't follow the H&S and second his lock is pissed! 👎