Great idea. This is something I've been wanting to make as well since it's so much cheaper than buying one. Also something to keep in mind about the miter saw: instead of marking your cut length on the fence, you can screw a long board into the fence, and then clamp another board at your cut length for a more consistent positive stop for multiple cuts.
I dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know a way to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb lost the account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
That is a very simple but brilliant idea. Nice looking and generally anybody can make it with simple tools. Will make it myself, just I feel when you do not have nailgun you would have to pre-drill holes before so that the wood does not crack. Also I will add simple wooden board every 2 slots instead of ladder in each column. Will make the idea easier I suppose. Thanks for the video.
Hi. Any chance you can make a simple drawing of the construction with measurements. It will be easier for us non-US folks to translate to the metric (centimeter) system as well as see the different parts. Please...
I used nails because the furring strips crack very easily and the nails are nice because they hide well and are very fast with an air brad nailer. If you made the rack from a nicer wood like oak, you could probably use screws but you would probably want to drill pilot holes and even then it may split once the taper of the head sinks in since the strips are so narrow.
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel That is not what he was asking for. He was asking for the distance between the 'ladders'. I used a spacer of 2.75" or 70mm (for the non-Americans) between the bottle rails of the ladders.
A 2x4 is actually 3.5" wide these days, so no need to cut it down. A rough cut 2x4 would be closer to 4" wide. In that case you would want to rip it to 3.5".
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel you could also rip your rungs to 10.5" first then feed rip them in half. Much safer and wouldn't require an extra hand feeding the boards through the saw.
They squeeze a little tight through the uprights but do fit. If you use a softwood like I did, it is no problem. If you choose to use a hardwood like oak, you may want to increase the opening between rows to about 3 5/8. Most modern champagne bottles are fattest in the middle so aside from rubbing on the way in it is not a problem. The old or straight sided ones are narrow enough.
Just what I was looking for. Perfect.
Great idea. This is something I've been wanting to make as well since it's so much cheaper than buying one. Also something to keep in mind about the miter saw: instead of marking your cut length on the fence, you can screw a long board into the fence, and then clamp another board at your cut length for a more consistent positive stop for multiple cuts.
Thanks! Good call! That would speed up the process a bit more.
I dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb lost the account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
@Kolton Santana Instablaster :)
I liked the idea of using 2x4's to make a jig.
Awesome Job, Glad I found this channel
That is a very simple but brilliant idea. Nice looking and generally anybody can make it with simple tools. Will make it myself, just I feel when you do not have nailgun you would have to pre-drill holes before so that the wood does not crack. Also I will add simple wooden board every 2 slots instead of ladder in each column. Will make the idea easier I suppose. Thanks for the video.
Got drunk watching this. I took a swig every time you said Go Ahead. Lol
Hi. Any chance you can make a simple drawing of the construction with measurements. It will be easier for us non-US folks to translate to the metric (centimeter) system as well as see the different parts. Please...
Nice job. One question - why did you use nails instead of wood screws? Wouldn't the wood screws be more secure than nails?
I used nails because the furring strips crack very easily and the nails are nice because they hide well and are very fast with an air brad nailer. If you made the rack from a nicer wood like oak, you could probably use screws but you would probably want to drill pilot holes and even then it may split once the taper of the head sinks in since the strips are so narrow.
I realize this is way past time but what are the cross brace measurements? 4-X/8?
Nice push stick.
What was the spacing of the racks when assembling, please? Every time you said "Four and...[nailgun]...I mean...yeah...Four and...[nailgun]...eighth."
The ladders of the racks are 3.5 inches apart. You can use a 2x4 as a spacer when nailing them together since they measure 1.5x3.5.
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel That is not what he was asking for. He was asking for the distance between the 'ladders'. I used a spacer of 2.75" or 70mm (for the non-Americans) between the bottle rails of the ladders.
With the 2x4's for the template, did you cut them down to 3.5" gap?
A 2x4 is actually 3.5" wide these days, so no need to cut it down. A rough cut 2x4 would be closer to 4" wide. In that case you would want to rip it to 3.5".
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel you could also rip your rungs to 10.5" first then feed rip them in half. Much safer and wouldn't require an extra hand feeding the boards through the saw.
What are your thoughts on adding a dab of glue to the joints you're brad nailing?
I think it's a good idea. Would probably stiffen up the assembly a good bit.
Will Champagne bottles fit?
They squeeze a little tight through the uprights but do fit. If you use a softwood like I did, it is no problem. If you choose to use a hardwood like oak, you may want to increase the opening between rows to about 3 5/8. Most modern champagne bottles are fattest in the middle so aside from rubbing on the way in it is not a problem. The old or straight sided ones are narrow enough.
There are many similar projects in Woodglut's plans.
Damn u speak too much... Just do it
Watch out good people, we got ourselves a nasty TROLL!!!