I had horizontal scoring in my 395xp. It was out of warranty by about a year. Between the mechanic's assurance that I was doing things right, and a sob story from me, Husqvarna GAVE ME all the genuine replacement parts. Hats off to husqvarna usa
@@mattfleming86 for sure, especially the price husky wants for the bearings. If they were a normal dimension, you could substitute the bearings with steel caged. The carbs are an issue too, having to replace and then pay to get a carb programmed every time it needs a fuel solenoid is crazy.
Richard, Hope there will be a test cut video coming up. Do you have a video that shows Husq crank and split with gasket style case assembly process? And greetings from Darlington County SC. Gary
Rich nice detailed explanation. 👍 It shows the years of experience.💪💪💪 Your customer will be one happy SOB for years to come. ☺️😃😋😙🤗😜🥲 Happy and safe cutting 😉☺️💪💪😃😄😋😙🤗😜🥲
Pretty much all the 5 series husky’s have crank bearing problems. I suspect they had a bad batch of bearings. Husky has released a few service bulletins addressing the issue and there’s new crank bearing part numbers for most of the 5 series saws. Cages come apart and cause the seal to fail.
Not much difference than working on a tight no room MS362/MS400 with their nylon caged proprietary bearings. Hard to get parts? Ive been waiting on Stihl parts well over a month with no end in sight. 562 is a great saw. So is the 550 and 572. 592 and 585 are cutting edge technology with great power. But its time to run down those terrible 5xx series. But the haters will hate. I hope my OE MS462 pays for itself before the piston skirts break or the bar mount cracks.
It'd be interesting to know what the final repair $cost$ was on this project (minus the clutch). With OEM parts (no choice) and your time, was it cost effective over the price of a new saw? My takeaway from this video is to keep my 372 and 390 in good order. The auto-tune carb alone (both Husky and Stihl) makes it expensive and needing to take it into a dealer's bench under some circumstances.
The donor piston and cylinder saved this from being cost prohibitive. Otherwise it would have been best to keep for parts for his other 562's. Bearings, seal and gasket set was about $130ish
I have the same saw. This week the chain guide sprocket broke into a couple pieces and it died. I ordered the kit with needle bearing, main sprocket and the chain guide sprocket. The issue was getting the clutch to not turn when attempting to unscrew the clutch and sprocket which as you know is reverse threaded. I guy at the shop said to remove the spark plug and snake a piece of rope into the cylinder to prevent the piston from going to the top stroke and just continuing to cycle up and down. The idea of putting something inside the head seemed like a bad idea… Well I did what he recommended and I got the clutch and sprocket off. Success! Well that was short lived since know I cant pull out the rope . It’s stuck in the head. I don’t see anyway of getting this out short of a tear down. I thought I could removed the head but there’s no easy way to do it. Any suggestions?
This happened to me years ago. Try putting a 1/4" drive extension in the spark plug hole and tap the piston down. You'll want the drive as vertical as possible. Be mindful of the threads when you do this and use as little force as necessary when tapping on the piston.
@@richardflagg3084 Thanks. I recently bought a 1/4” drive 6” long extension because my brother-in-law got my 18mm impact socket stuck on a 17mm lug bolt from my Audi. We’re going to put the socket in my vice, heat it up with a torch and see if we can insert the extension and punch the bolt out of the other end… I’ll try using the extension to see if I can tap the piston down a little as well. Very frustrating….
Hey Richard I just received what’s supposed to be a genuine Stihl T27 torx impact driver from eBay. But it doesn’t say anything on it anywhere. I k ow in one of your previous videos you said you could buy them from Stihl. Does the one you have, have any markings on it. Like the Stihl logo, T27, or anything? Just wondering if I paid $17 for a piece of Chinese crap?
The one I got from the dealer two years ago has no markings on it. It's a smooth shaft driver and have used the ever loving crap out of it. I believe it's made by Wiha.
Was watching your oil videos. Was curious if you ever tested tcw3 marine oils? Was curious if running pennzoil tcw3 or supertech tcw3 marine oil is ok?
@@richardflagg3084 My friend, this oil burns perfectly even 33:1. Very good oil!!! 140 psi is good compression for 372 xp oe? I put a new piston on a used cylinder.
On the bright side it's a pretty robust part and doesn't fail too often. The cylinder doesn't have to come off, but it's easier to do with the cylinder off.
@richardflagg3084 so I have the 4 boot bolts off and three , bolts off for the plastic heat shield behind the boot. Is there a secrete bolts hiding? What has to come off? I really haven't found anything on how to replace the intake boot. Thanks for your help.
562XP’s have gone through several upgrades, because the early ones overheated. They increases the clearance between the top cover and tank handle on later versions. They also made several other changes, according to Walt (afleetcommand). I am not a Husqvarna Man, I am a Stihl Man, as you know.
FYI You guys you can put the 550 XP air filter on that and it saves you about $25 you can get it at Lowe’s or order it online 550 air filters Work they’re the same exact thing that is for the newer models not that crappy clip on filter
Hello Richard. I'm working on rebuilding a 2019 562xp, and noticed that the newest part number (575355807) for piston/cylinder is out of stock and back ordered... do you know if there are any differences between the above part, and (575355805)? I can't find a difference, and the older part is widely available.
The date split for the older and newer version is 2013-2014. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two. I haven't ordered a top end in about 6 months. There has been a significant price increase. MSRP went from $159 to $279!!! The xxxx807 part shows in stock and ready to ship from my warehouse (Blythewood SC). I can't speak to availability at other warehouses around the country.
@@richardflagg3084 One of the other mechanics I follow got back to me as well. The newer p/n is stated to have a dished out piston design which according to the service bulletin "reduces engine compression and therefore improves engine robustness."
I had horizontal scoring in my 395xp. It was out of warranty by about a year. Between the mechanic's assurance that I was doing things right, and a sob story from me, Husqvarna GAVE ME all the genuine replacement parts. Hats off to husqvarna usa
Happy new year! Seems like everything modern is harder to work on.
Fussin and cussin- finally a real small engine mechanic I can believe in!
Another strike against the 5 series saws for me. Thanks for the information. Have a great weekend.
The autotune I can deal with..
but hard to work on? F that. That and the plastic cage bearings. That just ticks me off. Designed to fail.
@@mattfleming86 for sure, especially the price husky wants for the bearings. If they were a normal dimension, you could substitute the bearings with steel caged.
The carbs are an issue too, having to replace and then pay to get a carb programmed every time it needs a fuel solenoid is crazy.
I’m going to have to watch this one a few times. This is a great video Rich!
Good thread locker and retaining compound are somewhat of a savior in ANY mechanical work.
Richard, Hope there will be a test cut video coming up. Do you have a video that shows Husq crank and split with gasket style case assembly process? And greetings from Darlington County SC. Gary
Next one that comes in I'll do a video on it. Thanks!
When they run good there awesome but I have tons of seal and bearings problem husqvarna has fixed a lot of the problems
Donny, I've had my fair share of bearing issues too on the 500 series. Is it bearing/seal installation on the assembly line? or somthing else.
Rich nice detailed explanation. 👍
It shows the years of experience.💪💪💪
Your customer will be one happy SOB for years to come. ☺️😃😋😙🤗😜🥲
Happy and safe cutting 😉☺️💪💪😃😄😋😙🤗😜🥲
Pretty much all the 5 series husky’s have crank bearing problems. I suspect they had a bad batch of bearings. Husky has released a few service bulletins addressing the issue and there’s new crank bearing part numbers for most of the 5 series saws. Cages come apart and cause the seal to fail.
Not much difference than working on a tight no room MS362/MS400 with their nylon caged proprietary bearings.
Hard to get parts? Ive been waiting on Stihl parts well over a month with no end in sight.
562 is a great saw. So is the 550 and 572. 592 and 585 are cutting edge technology with great power.
But its time to run down those terrible 5xx series.
But the haters will hate.
I hope my OE MS462 pays for itself before the piston skirts break or the bar mount cracks.
Saved to playlist!😁
I hope this isn't a weakness on these 562xp saws. We are rebuilding mine right now that did the something.
It'd be interesting to know what the final repair $cost$ was on this project (minus the clutch). With OEM parts (no choice) and your time, was it cost effective over the price of a new saw?
My takeaway from this video is to keep my 372 and 390 in good order. The auto-tune carb alone (both Husky and Stihl) makes it expensive and needing to take it into a dealer's bench under some circumstances.
The donor piston and cylinder saved this from being cost prohibitive. Otherwise it would have been best to keep for parts for his other 562's. Bearings, seal and gasket set was about $130ish
I have the same saw. This week the chain guide sprocket broke into a couple pieces and it died. I ordered the kit with needle bearing, main sprocket and the chain guide sprocket. The issue was getting the clutch to not turn when attempting to unscrew the clutch and sprocket which as you know is reverse threaded. I guy at the shop said to remove the spark plug and snake a piece of rope into the cylinder to prevent the piston from going to the top stroke and just continuing to cycle up and down. The idea of putting something inside the head seemed like a bad idea…
Well I did what he recommended and I got the clutch and sprocket off. Success! Well that was short lived since know I cant pull out the rope
. It’s stuck in the head. I don’t see anyway of getting this out short of a tear down. I thought I could removed the head but there’s no easy way to do it. Any suggestions?
This happened to me years ago. Try putting a 1/4" drive extension in the spark plug hole and tap the piston down. You'll want the drive as vertical as possible. Be mindful of the threads when you do this and use as little force as necessary when tapping on the piston.
@@richardflagg3084 Thanks. I recently bought a 1/4” drive 6” long extension because my brother-in-law got my 18mm impact socket stuck on a 17mm lug bolt from my Audi. We’re going to put the socket in my vice, heat it up with a torch and see if we can insert the extension and punch the bolt out of the other end… I’ll try using the extension to see if I can tap the piston down a little as well. Very frustrating….
A gnats ass of clearance. How did you keep that gnat still while you measured it? 😂😂😂😂😂
Regional measuring standard one step below a "c" hair.
Hey Richard I just received what’s supposed to be a genuine Stihl T27 torx impact driver from eBay. But it doesn’t say anything on it anywhere. I k ow in one of your previous videos you said you could buy them from Stihl. Does the one you have, have any markings on it. Like the Stihl logo, T27, or anything? Just wondering if I paid $17 for a piece of Chinese crap?
The one I got from the dealer two years ago has no markings on it. It's a smooth shaft driver and have used the ever loving crap out of it. I believe it's made by Wiha.
Thanks for the reply. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t getting the runaround.
Was watching your oil videos. Was curious if you ever tested tcw3 marine oils? Was curious if running pennzoil tcw3 or supertech tcw3 marine oil is ok?
I personally use Schaeffers 7000 which is a tcw3 oil. Burns clean and leaves a nice coating of oil on the internals at 40:1.
@@richardflagg3084 My friend, this oil burns perfectly even 33:1. Very good oil!!! 140 psi is good compression for 372 xp oe? I put a new piston on a used cylinder.
Haha just broke a dolmar 7900 clutch trying to replace crank seals don’t feel bad 😂
Hey what bearings you use in magnesium side?
The sealed bearings are a Husqvarna specific part. Pricy too.
What caused it to seize up?
Air leak at the clutch bearing because it got overheated.
If a guy has to replace the intake boot , how the heck is that done?
On the bright side it's a pretty robust part and doesn't fail too often. The cylinder doesn't have to come off, but it's easier to do with the cylinder off.
@richardflagg3084 so I have the 4 boot bolts off and three , bolts off for the plastic heat shield behind the boot. Is there a secrete bolts hiding? What has to come off? I really haven't found anything on how to replace the intake boot. Thanks for your help.
@@benrodriques I have to ask if you've done a pressure and vac test or are you assuming there is an issue with the intake manifold?
I know there sis a problem. If I could post a picture I would. The intake boot is toast. Tears on both bottom tube.
@@benrodriquesVery strange failure. That's a new one on me.
562XP’s have gone through several upgrades, because the early ones overheated. They increases the clearance between the top cover and tank handle on later versions. They also made several other changes, according to Walt (afleetcommand). I am not a Husqvarna Man, I am a Stihl Man, as you know.
No sirven no aguantan la chamba
Junk Varna
FYI You guys you can put the 550 XP air filter on that and it saves you about $25 you can get it at Lowe’s or order it online 550 air filters Work they’re the same exact thing that is for the newer models not that crappy clip on filter
Hello Richard. I'm working on rebuilding a 2019 562xp, and noticed that the newest part number (575355807) for piston/cylinder is out of stock and back ordered... do you know if there are any differences between the above part, and (575355805)? I can't find a difference, and the older part is widely available.
The date split for the older and newer version is 2013-2014. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two. I haven't ordered a top end in about 6 months. There has been a significant price increase. MSRP went from $159 to $279!!! The xxxx807 part shows in stock and ready to ship from my warehouse (Blythewood SC). I can't speak to availability at other warehouses around the country.
@@richardflagg3084 One of the other mechanics I follow got back to me as well. The newer p/n is stated to have a dished out piston design which according to the service bulletin "reduces engine compression and therefore improves engine robustness."