Bruce you are an excellent mechanic, and I really like you, I will be replacing my cv joints, and seals, this video really gives me the knowledge I need to complete the job, safe, and successfully.
For anyone looking to do this in the future, save yourself some time by leaving the tie rod end and ball joint in. Just jack up both sides (so you're not fighting the sway bar), remove the two lower strut mounting bolts, unclip the ABS (if you have) and remove the caliper and hang it on the spring. There's enough play to get the axle in and out.
Excellent advice, but I would say one should NEVER use the jack as the support. I typically use jackstands, and leave the jack barely touching at the lift point where I lowered it onto the stands, and if I have a wheels off, I set it under the car. Even if everything goes wrong, the car will fall onto the wheel and hopefully the worst I get out of it is a broken bone or two.
1990-2000 Toyota Camry, Lexus ES300, V6 engine passenger side mid-axle bearings are notorious for being extremely difficult to remove because the half-shaft support bearing outer race rusts & freezes into the opening of the cast iron right rear motor mount. Found a solution for this problem: axle bearing stuck in motor mount support: 2000 ES300, original axle, pulled & replaced 01/30/2016 despite stuck. So what worked? Combination: (1) OTC 4579 axle slide hammer with (2) OTC 7508 extension (gets slide hammer far enough out to be useful) with (c) OEMTools 27058 axle puller (rented from AutoZone) combined with (d) Steck 71415 Axle Popper II driven between 27058 axle puller and the cast iron engine mount. The Steck 71415 slid in nicely, providing intense pressure and with this added constant pressure, the OTC slide hammer was able to pull the rusted bearing out of the rusted cast iron engine mount. Before replacing the axle shaft, I sanded out the rust from the cast iron engine mount opening, verified that the new bearing would not slide in & out and then coated both the engine mount opening and the bearing outer race with Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant; very effective in preventing any future seize problems at any future change.
To remove the tie rod end - thread the nut on just a couple threads and hit the nut with a hammer, no need to risk damaging your tie rod boot by using a pickle fork
@HakerzTM I'm sure it's been fixed by now but if the axle comes out one side, no torque will go to the other axle. It's just like when one wheel spins in the snow or mud and the other wheel sits there with no movement or traction. That's just how non-limited slip differentials work.
yea right mr bonebrake Im sure splitting it off that carrier bearing was really that simple now when the video was paused how did you get it split at the 3bolt flange??
Bruce didn't mention it but did you notice that one of the lug studs was broken and another appeared to be cross threaded? Both were rusty since no lug nut was used on them.
Do you need alignment after this work? Thank you for the useful film, especially for that information: When working on CV Axle, work always just on one part .
My car is a front wheel drive, the cv axle from the front driver's side came out when I hit a pothole. Now the car will not move at all or the other front right tire will not move at all either when I press on the gas. I can hear the engine running and I can see the MPH go up just like when you press on the gas when you have the car on park. The guys at autozone said that everything will work fine once the other cv axle in in place. So I'm just wondering if that is true?
The short shaft is always easy to take out... Some of those long shaft have carrier bearing lord help you if it's seized in there which on a car older than 10 years usually always is...
@waterwart Many immigrants took a literal translation of their surname name when immigrating during the 1800's. Others who came through Ellis island has their names slaughtered/Americanized by the clerk as they came through. (Were rushed through) One of the family names in my genealogy went from Wagner (with a thick German accent Vacknher) to Buckner. Just as an example.
i dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost my account password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Edgar Malik i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
He made that lower control arm ball joint removal look easy. Mine was not nearly that easy. Are you suppose to push down on the control arm with your hand, and push up with the pickle fork at the same time?
Use stands and then you shake or push the heck out of the car to make sure the car will stay on the stands.....before you get under the car. And put your tires with rims under the car or car frames....this way if the car comes down it will end up on the tires with rims and will not crush and kill you.....just an extra safety for you.
I had my kia on a jack... Not much room for a prybar. I was holding the wishbone with my foot on a 12 in. pry bar putting just about as much pressure as I could on it to free the axle. After the bar slipped off a couple times I finally got it. And please people... If your using a jack ALWAYS put some type of failsafe under the vehicles frame. Never fully trust your jack. (No, Nothing ever happened to me. Just a warning)
Why do you remove the arm and joint. I generally remove caliper assembly, the rotor. and the three bolts holding the bearing assembly. If necessary use a "puller" to press the axle out of the hub. then, once released from the differential assembly, pull the shaft out through the knuckle. That way you never have to worry about springs and where they are located. One note on many older cars, for example the 1960's Eldorado. the differential cover had to be removed because the inner spline shaft was held in position by a heavy c-clip that had to be removed first.
@@olenaerhardt7725 No because you are not undoing any of the suspension parts that affect alignment. Only if you have to undo tie rod ends, or steering elements, needed in a few cases to get the necessary clearance, though I have yet to have had to do that.
@@gerardtrigo380 Thank you so much for the replay, it is good to know. I just did a very good alignment on one car (2001 Saturn SL2) in dealership after I replaced Inner and Outer Tire Rods, Wheel Bearings and Breaks. But I hear some clicking noise on slow turns. Most likely it is time to change the CV Axles on front (130K).
Sir, may I also ask, if it is very difficult to install the CV Axle back? I've seen several films, where the authors say that there is a certain pin at the end of the Axle, which should go into certain position in the transmission, and you need to put some grease at that end, so the pin will fit, otherwise something bad can happen, but no details on that particular part of the job, which I think is the most complicated of everything else in it. I've also read in one comment for this film, that a lady had a problem to put it back.That is what she wrote: "Diane Mangert 4 years ago my 1999 BLAZER keeps pushing the CV axle out on Driver side when 4x4 engaged , Locking ring not holding , Anyone seen this b4?" I would appreciate if you could say a few words about that part of the work, maybe you know some films which make accent on it.
@@olenaerhardt7725 It depends on the car. Like I noted for the Eldorado, some cars you have to remove the differential cover to remove a pin or clip to remove an axle and it has to be put back in when the axle is re-installed. I would suggest looking up the information for your particular make, and model car.
tiene asta telaranas el auto jajajaaaa buenos bideos amigo megustaria que subieras en espanol para miraza que no entendemos ingles somos los mejores clientes de autozon.
My 2001 subura froster, why is the axel I took out ,don't have theth and all the axel the say fit,but the have teeth, forwheel speed sensor, which one is right
I would replace it, because it is worn and a few miles after replacing the axle the old worn seal could leak and you would have to do the same thing again to replace the old leaky seal. Might as well replace it when you do your axle.
I know he first started that axle nut with an impact and then lightly tightened it up so he could break it loose with a breaker bar. They’re trying hard to show the job without regular shop tools but it’s never that easy.
If you take a breaker bar, lock it in place. And use a hammer to moderately knock loose the nut, but tat the 3/4 way up mark on the breaker. The torque will likely be better than that of an impact…. What’s up with y’all an impacts.
That axle screw is no joke I like how easy he took it off ... I tried so many breaker Bars and the last one was so strong it broke My craftsman wrench lol..... Yes I know craftsman sucks But damn !!!!! Lmao o well off to sears for a Free replacement
Another "how to" video that over-concentrates on showing the face of the mechanic (narcissism syndrome) and under-concentrates on the stuff needed to be done. Arg!
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Bruce you are an excellent mechanic, and I really like you, I will be replacing my cv joints, and seals, this video really gives me the knowledge I need to complete the job, safe, and successfully.
For anyone looking to do this in the future, save yourself some time by leaving the tie rod end and ball joint in. Just jack up both sides (so you're not fighting the sway bar), remove the two lower strut mounting bolts, unclip the ABS (if you have) and remove the caliper and hang it on the spring. There's enough play to get the axle in and out.
Do you need to do alignment if you do it that way?
Excellent advice, but I would say one should NEVER use the jack as the support. I typically use jackstands, and leave the jack barely touching at the lift point where I lowered it onto the stands, and if I have a wheels off, I set it under the car. Even if everything goes wrong, the car will fall onto the wheel and hopefully the worst I get out of it is a broken bone or two.
1990-2000 Toyota Camry, Lexus ES300, V6 engine passenger side mid-axle bearings are notorious for being extremely difficult to remove because the half-shaft support bearing outer race rusts & freezes into the opening of the cast iron right rear motor mount.
Found a solution for this problem: axle bearing stuck in motor mount support:
2000 ES300, original axle, pulled & replaced 01/30/2016 despite stuck. So what worked? Combination: (1) OTC 4579 axle slide hammer with (2) OTC 7508 extension (gets slide hammer far enough out to be useful) with (c) OEMTools 27058 axle puller (rented from AutoZone) combined with (d) Steck 71415 Axle Popper II driven between 27058 axle puller and the cast iron engine mount. The Steck 71415 slid in nicely, providing intense pressure and with this added constant pressure, the OTC slide hammer was able to pull the rusted bearing out of the rusted cast iron engine mount.
Before replacing the axle shaft, I sanded out the rust from the cast iron engine mount opening, verified that the new bearing would not slide in & out and then coated both the engine mount opening and the bearing outer race with Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant; very effective in preventing any future seize problems at any future change.
To remove the tie rod end - thread the nut on just a couple threads and hit the nut with a hammer, no need to risk damaging your tie rod boot by using a pickle fork
Bandit Kevin that’s why he said look up you’re vehicle manufacturers repair manual to see what’s best to remove any suspension components
Bandit Kevin how replice ingektor in huyndaj santa fe 2009
@HakerzTM I'm sure it's been fixed by now but if the axle comes out one side, no torque will go to the other axle. It's just like when one wheel spins in the snow or mud and the other wheel sits there with no movement or traction. That's just how non-limited slip differentials work.
"It won't take that much effort to get that axle to break loose."
"Now we go ahead and tap on it."
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL!
yea right mr bonebrake Im sure splitting it off that carrier bearing was really that simple now when the video was paused how did you get it split at the 3bolt flange??
Bruce didn't mention it but did you notice that one of the lug studs was broken and another appeared to be cross threaded? Both were rusty since no lug nut was used on them.
Do you need alignment after this work? Thank you for the useful film, especially for that information: When working on CV Axle, work always just on one part .
Great, the images from underneath are PRICELESS I was having trouble getting the cv out, now I see where to pry the support bearing, THANKS!!!
My car is a front wheel drive, the cv axle from the front driver's side came out when I hit a pothole. Now the car will not move at all or the other front right tire will not move at all either when I press on the gas. I can hear the engine running and I can see the MPH go up just like when you press on the gas when you have the car on park. The guys at autozone said that everything will work fine once the other cv axle in in place. So I'm just wondering if that is true?
Man I wish my one would come out that easy seized af
The short shaft is always easy to take out... Some of those long shaft have carrier bearing lord help you if it's seized in there which on a car older than 10 years usually always is...
@waterwart Many immigrants took a literal translation of their surname name when immigrating during the 1800's. Others who came through Ellis island has their names slaughtered/Americanized by the clerk as they came through. (Were rushed through) One of the family names in my genealogy went from Wagner (with a thick German accent Vacknher) to Buckner. Just as an example.
i dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost my account password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Carl Emory Instablaster :)
@Edgar Malik i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Edgar Malik It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
You don't have to remove the tie rod or the ball joint, I'm assuming that's a Nissan Maxima and I've done axles on those without doing that.
+sc0tte1 I'm about to attempt to do the driver side half axle on my 4th generation Nissan Maxima.
Is it basically the same as the passenger side?
yes
sc0tte1. Bruce always removes the balls
Im doing an axle on a 95 rn but im not removing the tie rod its a waste of time
He made that lower control arm ball joint removal look easy. Mine was not nearly that easy. Are you suppose to push down on the control arm with your hand, and push up with the pickle fork at the same time?
98 SR20
Too easy, I tapped on mine with a couple smacks, or use the castle nut and screw it on to where its flush and tap it out with a ballpeen hammer
always be careful when under cars don't shake them while pulling on breaker bar
you need to have stands under the frame
Use stands and then you shake or push the heck out of the car to make sure the car will stay on the stands.....before you get under the car.
And put your tires with rims under the car or car frames....this way if the car comes down it will end up on the tires with rims and will not crush and kill you.....just an extra safety for you.
J & B Homeliving thanks for the added tip. Will do. Thank you my friend.
If the axle nut won't come off easy and a jack doesn't do it, I had to take a good foraged steel wrench, and hit it with a 13 pound maul....
Does AutoZone sell light that works and give enough light so that you can see clear? And captions on the bottom blocks the thing that really matters.
i just bought one and will do it as my cv boot as a tear in it. the joint is brandnew so hopefully i caught it in time but if not oh well. lol
I had my kia on a jack... Not much room for a prybar. I was holding the wishbone with my foot on a 12 in. pry bar putting just about as much pressure as I could on it to free the axle. After the bar slipped off a couple times I finally got it. And please people... If your using a jack ALWAYS put some type of failsafe under the vehicles frame. Never fully trust your jack. (No, Nothing ever happened to me. Just a warning)
Very nicely done, good quality video. Thanks!
Why do you remove the arm and joint. I generally remove caliper assembly, the rotor. and the three bolts holding the bearing assembly. If necessary use a "puller" to press the axle out of the hub. then, once released from the differential assembly, pull the shaft out through the knuckle. That way you never have to worry about springs and where they are located. One note on many older cars, for example the 1960's Eldorado. the differential cover had to be removed because the inner spline shaft was held in position by a heavy c-clip that had to be removed first.
Do you need to do alignment if you do it that way?
@@olenaerhardt7725 No because you are not undoing any of the suspension parts that affect alignment. Only if you have to undo tie rod ends, or steering elements, needed in a few cases to get the necessary clearance, though I have yet to have had to do that.
@@gerardtrigo380 Thank you so much for the replay, it is good to know. I just did a very good alignment on one car (2001 Saturn SL2) in dealership after I replaced Inner and Outer Tire Rods, Wheel Bearings and Breaks. But I hear some clicking noise on slow turns. Most likely it is time to change the CV Axles on front (130K).
Sir, may I also ask, if it is very difficult to install the CV Axle back? I've seen several films, where the authors say that there is a certain pin at the end of the Axle, which should go into certain position in the transmission, and you need to put some grease at that end, so the pin will fit, otherwise something bad can happen, but no details on that particular part of the job, which I think is the most complicated of everything else in it. I've also read in one comment for this film, that a lady had a problem to put it back.That is what she wrote:
"Diane Mangert
4 years ago
my 1999 BLAZER keeps pushing the CV axle out on Driver side when 4x4 engaged , Locking ring
not holding , Anyone seen this b4?"
I would appreciate if you could say a few words about that part of the work, maybe you know some films which make accent on it.
@@olenaerhardt7725 It depends on the car. Like I noted for the Eldorado, some cars you have to remove the differential cover to remove a pin or clip to remove an axle and it has to be put back in when the axle is re-installed. I would suggest looking up the information for your particular make, and model car.
so do you have to grease the new cv axle or just replace as is?
yes, grease it up, or youll have the same problems
is it the same prosses to replace the driver side axle?
Great video, thank you so much!
my 1999 BLAZER keeps pushing the CV axle out on Driver side when 4x4 engaged , Locking ring not holding , Anyone seen this b4?
Did you solve that problem and how, if you could tell? I need to do same work on one of our cars.
the cv axle for sienna is more complicated. how can I get it out
tiene asta telaranas el auto jajajaaaa buenos bideos amigo megustaria que subieras en espanol para miraza que no entendemos ingles somos los mejores clientes de autozon.
My 2001 subura froster, why is the axel I took out ,don't have theth and all the axel the say fit,but the have teeth, forwheel speed sensor, which one is right
now do this in the rust belt
Good video, but its better when tool size is added, it helps the novice a hole lot.
Hi, Hi after you got the axle off the transmission oil didn't come out?
why would oil come out of a CV axle?
I watched on you tube a video that said to change the transmission seal always when take off the inner axle. Is that necessary to do?
I would replace it, because it is worn and a few miles after replacing the axle the old worn seal could leak and you would have to do the same thing again to replace the old leaky seal. Might as well replace it when you do your axle.
I know he first started that axle nut with an impact and then lightly tightened it up so he could break it loose with a breaker bar. They’re trying hard to show the job without regular shop tools but it’s never that easy.
If you take a breaker bar, lock it in place. And use a hammer to moderately knock loose the nut, but tat the 3/4 way up mark on the breaker. The torque will likely be better than that of an impact…. What’s up with y’all an impacts.
Loved this video
how do I get the cv loose with toyota sienna 2003?
5:52 you see the crack in that axle?? Craaaaazy.
It's not cracked. As he was pulling the axle out, it scraped against another part and cleaned it, making it look like it was cracked.
Good catch. Looks cracked though!
@@rusco321 i was going to say the same
"To do the job right, you need the right tools. The nice things thing is that jobs today don't require a large expensive assortment."
AHAHAHHAHAHAH
To prevent the wheel hub from turning you could just engage the parking brake instead of doing that screwdriver thing...
+Scott Winkler air tools ftw
Or you can loosen the nut with the tire on and the car on the ground
I take some knowledge at this video
That retaining nut wasn't so easy for me, i put a pipe over that wrench and jumped on it like a trampoline.
thomla7 without an impact wrench it would be very tough.
Those two rusted wheel studs gave me anxiety.
dude they have to sell the tie rod separator tool, stop being an obstacle
VERY PROFESSIONAL THANK YOU.
I dont get why this guy can't talk with his safety glasses on... lol
Damn, I have to do this and I don't even have a breaker bar, just a cheap socket set... argh!
Do u really need to remove ball joint? Can't get away with just removing the 2 lower Strut bolts instead?
Say this just because the ball joint is a beast sometimes & might even require a special tool.
That axle screw is no joke I like how easy he took it off ... I tried so many breaker
Bars and the last one was so strong it broke
My craftsman wrench lol..... Yes I know craftsman sucks
But damn !!!!! Lmao o well off to sears for a
Free replacement
the 80's are calling and they want their drop light back.
@waterwart A viking.
I just lose the shock and move it one side.
Easy.
😑
it made that to hard , its really easy if you take diff steps..... But be safe
Just buy a split CV Boot - the boot w/small nuts & bolts so no need to remove the whole axle from trans!!!!!
thanks for the video
@waterwart Bummer man.
Thats his machanical name lol
The good-hair-man needs to quit removing his safety glasses.
How to remove a cv joint from a 2002 ford escort.
thanks
very helpful ty!!!
if only people werent so cheap and bought the gold rotors that have fins.. tsk tsk
Thank
T
That damn Nissan mid housing for the ale, those bolts are a B
Amen!
whats the price a mechanic would charge u for this type of fix
250-300$...Not including parts...Also depends on your year,make, and model.
75 bucks labor on a 2003 maxima and under
Brandon Benentt 🤔
😲I was quoted $430, that's with the part included. Which is why I'm watching this video.
$400,000.00
No gloves ??
what the hell. The rotar has spider we s on it. This car hasn't moved on a while.
Wow u broke axle nut 🥜 💺 seating 😂
dont say broke or anything similar to customers they freak out lol
I second that.
Another "how to" video that over-concentrates on showing the face of the mechanic (narcissism syndrome) and under-concentrates on the stuff needed to be done. Arg!
just leave the glasses on man
That's CNN fake news ..I broke 3 breaker bars trying to get mine loose . Bought a cheap hourborfreight impact gun and got it loose
satefy glasses for noobs
keep eyes safe from dirt and debri.
better safe than screaming