This is my first video seeing of yours. If the rest are of equal quality then you’re a criminally underrated channel. Found it randomly when looking into expo arms buffers.
If you suspect a buffer adjustment may fix your problem buy the H3 buffer. Using the different combination of weights between your standard buffer(3 lighter steel weights) and the H3(3 heavier tungsten weights) you should be able to come up with a combo that works for just about any AR.
An adjustable gas block can cure most of these problems. Heavier buffer to deal with over-gassing? Just reduce the gas.Under-gassed? Lighter buffer and tune with gas block. Covers a huge range of possibilities. The idea is to use the least amount of gas to cycle the rifle. Less gas fouling, less gas-face, and more gas pushing the round. Also the state with the the least recoil. No AR should be without an adjustable gas block. Best $60 you can spend on an AR.
I totally laughed my ass off whenever somebody says 3.5 is a heavy buffer. That is not even close to a heavy buffer. Back when they only had two different sizes yeah it was. But I went to a 13 Oz buffer and a 308 recoil spring in my foxtrot Mike 45 carbine.
Just noticed you missed a rubber pad (RP) when you put the together. You go buffer body, RP, weight, RP, weight, RP, weight, and end with buffer bumper. Basically you're trying to avoid any metal to metal contact with the fronts/ends of the weights.
I had to watch about 10 videos of guys droning on forever with little good info before I found this one. Great job and thanks for keeping this straight to the point.
Agreed!! I'm building my first AR and this guy finally made it clear for me. This is the most clear concise and easy to understand explanation of AR-15 buffers that I've come across.🎉🎉
Really liked the video. Good for a new AR owner. I’d love to see all of this along with a brief comparison to those “quiet” buffer options where some seem to be adjustable while others seem to be fixed weight, which makes choosing more difficult.
This was an excellent video thanks for putting this together you answered a lot of my questions. The one area that I am still in the dark on is the spring strength! I have heard to smooth out recoil go with a lower buffer weight and a stronger spring. Since the buffer and spring work together to slow the momentum of the bolt and then return it to being in battery it would be really helpful to understand how to incorporate both decisions (selection of a specific buffer and spring ) to optimize felt recoil and ability to execute fast followup shots.
This guy is basing the buffer weights with the use of a standard mil-spec buffer spring.....Or he would have mentioned that....Even just using an extra power spring with mil-spec weight buffer would slow the energy. If you really want to learn about buffer systems don't hesitate to call Sprinco....They are one of the best in the business....They will tell you to start with a standard set-up and tell them what's happening from that point. Your rifle has many tunable options and the buffer is the easiest and quickest.....Unless you have built it urself and used an adjustable gas block your options are limited and they can help......Wilson Combat is another genius company with awesome tech advice. Good Luck and keep on shooting!!!!!
This was the best explanation I’ve ever heard on this topic! Well done. I have a Spikes H2 on my 14.7” mid length system. I also added an adjustable gas block. Ejection pattern is at 4oclock on 62 grain. Softest recoiling rifle I own! I am building 11.5” carbine. Also going with an H2 buffer, and also adding an adjustable gas block as I may add a suppressor in the future!
Surprised at your recommendation for 300AAC Blackout and 7.62x39. I have a 300 BO. and a 3 oz.. carbine buffer works great on both full power and subsonic loads. 12.5 inch barrel.
@@polduseri909 The 300aac was designed to shoot like the 7.62x39. It may work the same on your rifle. But as he mentioned, it can depend on how your gun is gassed. If your recoil is a little more and your cases are not at 4 o'clock, my first adjustment would be to the 3.8 oz buffer. FYI I use the 3.8oz. on 6.5 Grendel and 9mm. The 9 also has a heavier bolt. I think he was trying to make the point that every rifle is a little different. Especially if you build your own. You have a hodgepodge of barrels, gas blocks, buffers and springs from different manufacturers.
John Fedor thanks a lot for replying and for your insight. I am in the process to complete purchasing all the parts to build an ar in 7.62x39 and a lot of comments that I read focus on the buffer, buffer spring, magazine and enhanced firing pin. But as you said, all the rifles built have a peculiar way to respond and it’s about to test them in order to refine as needed.
@@polduseri909 If your still buying parts, I know Right to Bear sells bolt carrier groups with the enhanced firing pin included. There are inexpensive barrels at B.King, Classic fire arms and Bear creek arsenal. They are all BCA. I had good luck with mine. The best mag. for 7.62x39 are C-Mags.
Have a AR never shot, not done with it but the actual barrel is only like 12" long with a 4" flash/break. Not sure how they measure barrels on these. from chamber start to end of rifling? Anyway for 5.56 nato is a H1 about right?
I noticed you skipped the fourth buffer on the table. You also pointed to the middle one while talking about the H3 and called the one to its left a H2. It seems to me the right order is (left to right): Standard, H1, H2, H3, Pistol.
With a H2 = 4.6oz buffer my weapon is ejecting at or about 3 to 3:30. With the 3 oz buffer, it is ejecting the shells at about 2 o'clock. Most civilian rifles are over ⛽
Buffer change is a bandaid if your over gassed. You need an adjustable gas block. Never build a AR of any caliber without a adjustable gas block. Superlative Arms are top line AGB's.
@Markus Reestuh lol. 7.5 in 556 is dumb. You want a flame thrower/concussion grenade for every round or a rifle? Ran a 7.5 in 556 for a bit and it's the most impractical thing I've ever done with a firearm. Granted 300 blk is totally duable at that shortness, but not something burning off most of its powder before it makes it an inch out the barrel. If you wanna go short on 556, 10.5-12.5 is the only way to go.
Currently building a long carbine/ c7a2 style build with vltor a5 buffer tube with magpul ubr gen2 buttstock and springco rifle springs its ejecting consistently in the 4 o'clock position, is this ok?
Same exact question here, haha. Sounds like it depends on barrel length and gas port diameter too, so maybe no easy answer. You find an answer elsewhere? Onward in my search for now!
Very nice Video, thanks. Can you do one on selecting Carbine vs A5 vs Rifle length Systems? I currently have a Carbine Buffer on a mid length 14.5". I recently put together an 18" Rifle length Upper to use on the same Lower. it seems to cycle just fine, but I was looking at the Buffer system and wondering if the "A5" variety would be more appropriate.
Want to add the best upgrade to your AR15, 10, 9mm you can???? This upgrade blew my son in law away, talk about a game changer as far as accuracy, kick back, my 4 year old granddaughter can and has shot my AR15, AR10 .308, AR9mm(under my supervision of course), it loves to shoot my guns now. The upgrade is the: JPEnterprise No Kick buffer Or Arma Spec Stealth buffer Either one works super, no spring slinky sound in buffer tube but my guns shoot like a .22. JPE is kinda expensive paying for the name I feel coming in at 136.00-150.00 range. Armaspec can find fir 44.00-69.00, buy one today, and if it doesn’t change your game email me I’ll buy it from you
Your rifle is over gassed if it is ejecting at 1:00, which you probably already know.. H2 buffers run from 4.6 to 4.7 oz.. H3 runs 5.0 to 5.4 .. If your rifle is now running at 4:00 then you got it tuned pretty good.. I prefer using the Rifle Speed adj gas block myself..It is always better to adj the gas rather than adding weight..An easier way is to use a BRT EZTUNE Gas Tube..They have a questionnaire to help find the right tube port size if you don't have a pin gauge set to measure your port size..@@Allenmar73
@@ARBuildJunkie I'm always interested in any testing of inexpensive AR related items like PSA parts or Primary Arms optics. I have a respect for the top tier equipment but not a wallet that can afford building with Knights/BCM/Hodge. I carry a Glock and a Colt Defense sits by my bed, but everything else is cheap/beater/home brew guns for fun and I'm always looking for good reliability out of something that I can afford.
Issue: 9.5" 300 Blkout, standard spring and 3.0 oz buffer. Suppressed. Runs supers just fine. Short stroking on subs. Replaced spring with springco 25% reduced yellow spring. Now cycling. Trying to wrap my head around the physics of it. Did I put a bandaid on issue?? Or was I correct in reducing spring tension?
I just built my first ar-15 and cant get it to cycle I have a rifle length gas system and a rifle length buffer tube and buffer on a 20 inch barrel. What should I do.
What about with extreme lightweight bolt carrier groups that weigh around 5.9 ounces? I see that most BCGs weigh around 12 ounces. edit: I just weighed my jpsilent capture spring gen 1 system and it weighs 7.22 ounces.
hi ive been searching around for the correct answer for my build. I have an AR15 carbine build with a 16" barrel with a heavy duty competition barrel much thicker and heavier than factory sized barrel, it is also has a hard recoil even with a muzzle break making me believe it may be over gassed as well. I was hoping to swap out my buffer system and see if that helps at all. but I don't know what size or style to go with for my configuration.
Just bought a FN - 15 5.56 carbine M4 ? .......... was told to use xm193 ... 55 grain ammo ...... is this right ? Only ran 100 rds thru it so far was told to run 750 before I do anything to it ........ brass is mostly going behind me at around 5 o'clock
What about the weight of the bolt carrier assembly though? No one ever discusses that part. Mine needs a heavier buffer but not sure to get h1 or h2. Mines all commercial stuff including the bolt carrier assembly and a16” heavy barrel with a2 sight and carbine gas system. Stock used to be fixed rifle but was changed to collapsible Tapco a long time ago. Im considering just buying the 3 piece set of tungsten weights and play around with it and maybe a Wolff extra power spring and just start with the spring then get into the buffer if needed. I can get both for $23 ish plus tax and shipping which is still cheaper than a brownells heavy buffer that may or may not fix it. That’s more than enough weight without a doubt and gives me a lot of adjustment. But is there any difference in mil spec vs commercial diameters on the buffer weights or buffer?
I have an old 20" barrel A2 style AR. I changed the fixed original stock to an adjustable stock, probably intended for carbine, that has a shorter spring and shorter, lighter buffer. I like the adjustable stock but it doesn't always cycle correctly. Do you think an H1 buffer is the right weight to try?
What Buffer & spring would you suggest for a 450 Bush with a 20" barrel? Im having cycling issues (failure to feed & sometimes extract) but i don't have a table full of buffers & springs to test, so before i go spend a lot of money (ammo included) i would like an expert opinion.
Ok u confused me....? In the last video i watched about this subject due to my 458Socom build they said an H2 buffer would be best for my round........ so which is it?lol
this is exactly the information i need. thanks! i just grabbed a PA-15 multi. have been looking into just a few things to help it run smooth. i dont want to add a bunch of accessories. i just want it to be dependable.
14.5 mid? I haven’t dug deep on the problem yet but could it be the buffer? The rifle cycles fine and I’m getting good ejection but it wont lock back on the last round. Any suggestions?
Does the buffer weights supposed to slide back an forth inside the buffer tube? One of my rifles does it, doesn't help with stealth mode, while carrying it quietly. Thanks
I don't know if this is really a question, or just info for you to maybe address in some other Buffer-centric video sometime. I'm a novice to building on AR-15 platform and usually do a lot of research before buying each piece. In building an AR-15 Pistol in 9mm, I got the Armaspec Sound Mitigation AR-9 Buffer (ARM158-9). What I discovered was that the guide rod was so damn long, I could not cycle the BCG back into the buffer tube far enough. Saw on a blog somewhere that a SME was helping another novice and speculated that he had gotten a rifle-length buffer kit for a carbine-length stock/brace. I didn't see anywhere in the specs of this buffer where I could have caught that mismatch. Is there ever an end to the countless fuck-ups before learning all that is needed to know? ;-) GREAT VIDEO! You're a great organizer and presenter of straightforward content.
Great tutorial. I noticed my brass being thrown forward of the firing line just the other day. I figured something was wrong and since it was gifted to me I was going to tear it completely down. My gut feeling is they used an off the shelf carbine buffer. If that the case I'll switch out o a H3 and see what happens. Very good tutorial.
I tried an H-1 on my rifle when I noticed it ejecting into the 1:00-2:00 area. Next range trip I had the first "short stroke" ever with that rifle. Went back to the lighter buffer....no more short strokes. good luck...maybe your rifle will like the new buffer.
Nomatter what I do, my ejection path is at a constant 1-1:30 position. I'm able to cycle from 3oz all the way up to 5oz. It seems the heavier I go, the less distance the round will be thrown but still all in the exact same direction. What's crazy to me is that when I go with the 5oz weight I can still cycle lower power 223 like pmc bronze and the rifle will still lock back on empty mag but with even low pressure to higher pressure rounds when using the heavier buffer the rounds fall out of the rifle in such a silly looking way like a little brass turd plopping out right underneath my rifle. I ended up just going with 4oz because it seemed to feel the best and also I have less worry of any malfunctions. It's crazy to me how much more my AR kicks with just 1oz less buffer weight. You would never think you could ever feel something with that little difference. Rifle is a 16" Ruger AR 556. Switched out their buffer and buffer spring with a sprinco carbine white spring and buffer that's customizable as well as switching out their bcg to a son's of liberty gunworks complete bcg.
Sounds like your gas port is so oversized that no amount of buffer weight or heavy spring can compensate. You will likely need an adjustable gas block to tame that beast. Check out this video from SOTAR for an in-depth understanding. th-cam.com/video/eAuTHPdUchU/w-d-xo.html
thanks for the great video. Subscribed immediately. I combined a V Seven 11.25 308 Upper with a LaRue lower and put a Tailhook plus a Sylvan Arms folder on it. I was worried about the buffer spring and weight. After watching this video I chose spring and weight and it runs like a dream!
My 3 Colt m4a1socoms came with h2 buffers my 2 Colt 6920s had h1 buffers.I replaced the h1 buffers in my 6920s with h2s.A properly sized gas port on a carbine and the use of good ammo should be able to function better with h1 or h2 buffers.
so ive been raised shooting guns but never really knew exactly what happens between parts but as ive gotten older ive understood alot more but my question that i havent found an answer to is what happens if the polymer tip on the buffer is broke
Very new to AR15s and building my first one. So buffers are always based on the gas system correct? For carbine length I need a carbine buffer and so in?
Thank you for all the info, just to double check though.... so if I'm runnin a 10.5 inch ar pistol that's over gased and I may run it suppressed more then not, I should run an h2 or h3 buffer?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Do you really need to mess with buffer and buffer spring if you have adjustable gas block? If the issue that this (adding heavier buffer) is trying to fix, then addressing it at the source seems preferable. No?
That is way over gassed. You should consider an adjustable gas block. If that isn't in your skill set, an H3 and Sprinco orange spring will probably work for you.
I have an Aero precision M5-E1 chambered in 6.5 Grendel, 22' barrel, rifle length gas system, magpul prs gen 3 stock and a muzzle break. I also have a Timney trigger with a 1.5# pull weight. My shell ejection pattern is at 1 o'clock and if I don't pay attention to a firm complete trigger pull and follow through, I will have a double (Bump fire)...What weight and type of buffer tube do you recommend to mitigated these symptoms? The rifle runs fine but at higher pressure and brass indications even at lower charge weight loads.
Maybe try an adjustable gas block to regulate the gas. Also you should be running a rifle length buffer tube for a rifle length gas system. Rifle length heavy buffers are not common I believe people run a spacer to use carbine buffers and springs.
I noticed my 16" mid gas AR was ejecting to the 1:00 / 2:00 position. I tried the next step up to the H-1 ( 3.8 0z) buffer. Ejection moved to the 3:00/ 4:00....great. Then the first time ever fail to lock bolt open after last shot. So...back to the 3 oz and a slightly forward ejection. Is there a change of buffer spring that would balance this? I need a video about springs...maybe.
This is my first video seeing of yours. If the rest are of equal quality then you’re a criminally underrated channel. Found it randomly when looking into expo arms buffers.
Hey segc
I went with the H2 buffer you suggested from Primary Arms and it runs perfect in my Aero M4E1.
Always smile when I see a Reno May frolicking in the wild.
Simply majestic
If you suspect a buffer adjustment may fix your problem buy the H3 buffer. Using the different combination of weights between your standard buffer(3 lighter steel weights) and the H3(3 heavier tungsten weights) you should be able to come up with a combo that works for just about any AR.
Thank you so much for the information!!!! This is exactly what I needed as I'm new to the scene.
Finally, some more easy to understand intel w/o any gun snobbery. Been agonizing over buffers, triggers, barrels, and stocks. Thanks for this.
He’s reading someone else article online while filming.
@@jaredgander8345 If you didn't write the article then why do you care? He's getting information out to help people who are new to building.
@@jaredgander8345proof?
An adjustable gas block can cure most of these problems. Heavier buffer to deal with over-gassing? Just reduce the gas.Under-gassed? Lighter buffer and tune with gas block. Covers a huge range of possibilities. The idea is to use the least amount of gas to cycle the rifle. Less gas fouling, less gas-face, and more gas pushing the round. Also the state with the the least recoil. No AR should be without an adjustable gas block. Best $60 you can spend on an AR.
The Bomb. This guy actually knows what he’s talking about!
Scrolling through my feed and thought these were nerf darts I was like what is this fuckery
I totally laughed my ass off whenever somebody says 3.5 is a heavy buffer. That is not even close to a heavy buffer. Back when they only had two different sizes yeah it was. But I went to a 13 Oz buffer and a 308 recoil spring in my foxtrot Mike 45 carbine.
This was X-treamly HELPFUL to me.
Thank You.
Just noticed you missed a rubber pad (RP) when you put the together. You go buffer body, RP, weight, RP, weight, RP, weight, and end with buffer bumper. Basically you're trying to avoid any metal to metal contact with the fronts/ends of the weights.
I had to watch about 10 videos of guys droning on forever with little good info before I found this one. Great job and thanks for keeping this straight to the point.
My literal exact experience- i felt your pain brother this guy is the truth
Agreed!! I'm building my first AR and this guy finally made it clear for me.
This is the most clear concise and easy to understand explanation of AR-15 buffers that I've come across.🎉🎉
so what would you recomend on a new s&w m&p sport ii?
What's the best buffer and Spring for a 450 Bushmaster ?????
Definitely, the combination of the buffer and the buffer spring are very important to have a tunable cycle.
Really liked the video. Good for a new AR owner. I’d love to see all of this along with a brief comparison to those “quiet” buffer options where some seem to be adjustable while others seem to be fixed weight, which makes choosing more difficult.
so can you just use an adjustable gas block with a carbine buffer?
This was an excellent video thanks for putting this together you answered a lot of my questions. The one area that I am still in the dark on is the spring strength! I have heard to smooth out recoil go with a lower buffer weight and a stronger spring. Since the buffer and spring work together to slow the momentum of the bolt and then return it to being in battery it would be really helpful to understand how to incorporate both decisions (selection of a specific buffer and spring ) to optimize felt recoil and ability to execute fast followup shots.
This guy is basing the buffer weights with the use of a standard mil-spec buffer spring.....Or he would have mentioned that....Even just using an extra power spring with mil-spec weight buffer would slow the energy. If you really want to learn about buffer systems don't hesitate to call Sprinco....They are one of the best in the business....They will tell you to start with a standard set-up and tell them what's happening from that point. Your rifle has many tunable options and the buffer is the easiest and quickest.....Unless you have built it urself and used an adjustable gas block your options are limited and they can help......Wilson Combat is another genius company with awesome tech advice. Good Luck and keep on shooting!!!!!
Yupp! exactly what I needed to know. Low of videos but none broken down like this for weights
So a standard 3oz buffer is recommended for a 16” barrel in 5.56 with a mid length system?
This was the best explanation I’ve ever heard on this topic! Well done. I have a Spikes H2 on my 14.7” mid length system. I also added an adjustable gas block. Ejection pattern is at 4oclock on 62 grain. Softest recoiling rifle I own!
I am building 11.5” carbine. Also going with an H2 buffer, and also adding an adjustable gas block as I may add a suppressor in the future!
Hey Dan, did you finish the 11.5" build? If so, how did the H2 buffer work out?
Surprised at your recommendation for 300AAC Blackout and 7.62x39.
I have a 300 BO. and a 3 oz.. carbine buffer works great on both full power and subsonic loads.
12.5 inch barrel.
John Fedor I am just reading the comments and found yours interesting: On the 7.62x39, Do you replace the buffer spring?
@@polduseri909 The 300aac was designed to shoot like the 7.62x39.
It may work the same on your rifle.
But as he mentioned, it can depend on how your gun is gassed. If your recoil is a little more and your cases are not at 4 o'clock, my first adjustment would be to the 3.8 oz buffer.
FYI I use the 3.8oz. on 6.5 Grendel
and 9mm. The 9 also has a heavier bolt.
I think he was trying to make the point that every rifle is a little different. Especially if you build your own. You have a hodgepodge of barrels, gas blocks, buffers and springs from different manufacturers.
@@polduseri909 ps my 6.5 and 9 cases were landing behind me at 5 oclock.
John Fedor thanks a lot for replying and for your insight. I am in the process to complete purchasing all the parts to build an ar in 7.62x39 and a lot of comments that I read focus on the buffer, buffer spring, magazine and enhanced firing pin. But as you said, all the rifles built have a peculiar way to respond and it’s about to test them in order to refine as needed.
@@polduseri909 If your still buying parts, I know Right to Bear sells bolt carrier groups with the enhanced firing pin included.
There are inexpensive barrels at B.King, Classic fire arms and Bear creek arsenal. They are all BCA. I had good luck with mine.
The best mag. for 7.62x39 are
C-Mags.
I switched to an H2 buffer and it works fine.
Once a consistent hand load is established, wouldn't an adjustable gas block remedy most of the cycling issues you were talking about?
Expensive. Buffer is easier.
Have a AR never shot, not done with it but the actual barrel is only like 12" long with a 4" flash/break. Not sure how they measure barrels on these. from chamber start to end of rifling? Anyway for 5.56 nato is a H1 about right?
What would you recommend for a 20" Colt Sporter Match Hbar?
I noticed you skipped the fourth buffer on the table. You also pointed to the middle one while talking about the H3 and called the one to its left a H2.
It seems to me the right order is (left to right): Standard, H1, H2, H3, Pistol.
Lol thanks, now I'm gonna pull apart all my ars😁
Wait, what? You haven't done that already?
@@Yakjiru I have. This was just another reason to do it again
what happens if you replace a short pistol buffer tube and put a rifle long rifle buffer tube/system on a AR pistol with 7 inch barrel?
After looking at buffer prices, I think manufacturer choice of buffer is often driven by cost.
So because I only shoot 5.56 is why my H1 4.2oz is still getting 2:30 ejection?
With a H2 = 4.6oz buffer my weapon is ejecting at or about 3 to 3:30. With the 3 oz buffer, it is ejecting the shells at about 2 o'clock. Most civilian rifles are over ⛽
Because of all the ammo we have available there's not one right gas port, buffer and spring combo.
I thought i wanted to play around with buffer weights until i see that they cost like $30 a piece.....
Excellent, informative, and easy to understand video. I'm running a JP Silent Captured spring/buffer in my 308 AR and love it.
I just bought a random one. Oh well. Should be fine.
They’re not interchangeable? Tell that to my roll of quarters…
Buffer change is a bandaid if your over gassed. You need an adjustable gas block. Never build a AR of any caliber without a adjustable gas block. Superlative Arms are top line AGB's.
What about springs?
Leave what the factory put in they know what their doing there is a reason for what they put in dont listen to this guy
Thanks for your informative video! What would be your recommended weight range for a .223 7.5" barrel AR pistol?
@Cuauhtli-Mixtli Mendez-Martinez yes definitely
@Markus Reestuh lol. 7.5 in 556 is dumb. You want a flame thrower/concussion grenade for every round or a rifle? Ran a 7.5 in 556 for a bit and it's the most impractical thing I've ever done with a firearm. Granted 300 blk is totally duable at that shortness, but not something burning off most of its powder before it makes it an inch out the barrel. If you wanna go short on 556, 10.5-12.5 is the only way to go.
could it be possible to see a good video without masturbatory selfies of shooting?
Currently building a long carbine/ c7a2 style build with vltor a5 buffer tube with magpul ubr gen2 buttstock and springco rifle springs its ejecting consistently in the 4 o'clock position, is this ok?
I've always been happy with 3:30-4
Strike Industries Optimus. $55, is the way to go after your adjustable gas block.
Question what buffer is best for a 6.5 Grendel riffle length gas system on it
Same exact question here, haha. Sounds like it depends on barrel length and gas port diameter too, so maybe no easy answer. You find an answer elsewhere? Onward in my search for now!
Brown Anthony Miller Cynthia Jones Helen
So informative. Thanks for this video...
Very nice Video, thanks. Can you do one on selecting Carbine vs A5 vs Rifle length Systems? I currently have a Carbine Buffer on a mid length 14.5". I recently put together an 18" Rifle length Upper to use on the same Lower. it seems to cycle just fine, but I was looking at the Buffer system and wondering if the "A5" variety would be more appropriate.
Want to add the best upgrade to your AR15, 10, 9mm you can???? This upgrade blew my son in law away, talk about a game changer as far as accuracy, kick back, my 4 year old granddaughter can and has shot my AR15, AR10 .308, AR9mm(under my supervision of course), it loves to shoot my guns now. The upgrade is the:
JPEnterprise No Kick buffer
Or
Arma Spec Stealth buffer
Either one works super, no spring slinky sound in buffer tube but my guns shoot like a .22.
JPE is kinda expensive paying for the name I feel coming in at 136.00-150.00 range.
Armaspec can find fir 44.00-69.00, buy one today, and if it doesn’t change your game email me I’ll buy it from you
The buffer weight effect on dwell time is insignificant..The buffer effects carrier velocity and bolt bounce, not lock time..
Your rifle is over gassed if it is ejecting at 1:00, which you probably already know.. H2 buffers run from 4.6 to 4.7 oz.. H3 runs 5.0 to 5.4 .. If your rifle is now running at 4:00 then you got it tuned pretty good.. I prefer using the Rifle Speed adj gas block myself..It is always better to adj the gas rather than adding weight..An easier way is to use a BRT EZTUNE Gas Tube..They have a questionnaire to help find the right tube port size if you don't have a pin gauge set to measure your port size..@@Allenmar73
Heard you on the Primary and Secondary modcast the other day and decided to check out your site. Good stuff!
thanks for checking in...shoot us a message if you have something or someone you want to see profiled.
@@ARBuildJunkie I'm always interested in any testing of inexpensive AR related items like PSA parts or Primary Arms optics. I have a respect for the top tier equipment but not a wallet that can afford building with Knights/BCM/Hodge. I carry a Glock and a Colt Defense sits by my bed, but everything else is cheap/beater/home brew guns for fun and I'm always looking for good reliability out of something that I can afford.
Issue: 9.5" 300 Blkout, standard spring and 3.0 oz buffer. Suppressed. Runs supers just fine. Short stroking on subs. Replaced spring with springco 25% reduced yellow spring. Now cycling. Trying to wrap my head around the physics of it. Did I put a bandaid on issue?? Or was I correct in reducing spring tension?
That is one nice buffer you got there
I just built my first ar-15 and cant get it to cycle I have a rifle length gas system and a rifle length buffer tube and buffer on a 20 inch barrel. What should I do.
Is there any gas leak on gas port and BCG
What about with extreme lightweight bolt carrier groups that weigh around 5.9 ounces? I see that most BCGs weigh around 12 ounces.
edit: I just weighed my jpsilent capture spring gen 1 system and it weighs 7.22 ounces.
Light weight buffers are better just tune your gun to run them
hi ive been searching around for the correct answer for my build. I have an AR15 carbine build with a 16" barrel with a heavy duty competition barrel much thicker and heavier than factory sized barrel, it is also has a hard recoil even with a muzzle break making me believe it may be over gassed as well. I was hoping to swap out my buffer system and see if that helps at all. but I don't know what size or style to go with for my configuration.
Do would my 4.3oz be an H1 or H2?
Just bought a FN - 15 5.56 carbine M4 ? .......... was told to use xm193 ... 55 grain ammo ...... is this right ? Only ran 100 rds thru it so far was told to run 750 before I do anything to it ........ brass is mostly going behind me at around 5 o'clock
What about the weight of the bolt carrier assembly though?
No one ever discusses that part.
Mine needs a heavier buffer but not sure to get h1 or h2. Mines all commercial stuff including the bolt carrier assembly and a16” heavy barrel with a2 sight and carbine gas system. Stock used to be fixed rifle but was changed to collapsible Tapco a long time ago. Im considering just buying the 3 piece set of tungsten weights and play around with it and maybe a Wolff extra power spring and just start with the spring then get into the buffer if needed. I can get both for $23 ish plus tax and shipping which is still cheaper than a brownells heavy buffer that may or may not fix it. That’s more than enough weight without a doubt and gives me a lot of adjustment. But is there any difference in mil spec vs commercial diameters on the buffer weights or buffer?
I have an old 20" barrel A2 style AR. I changed the fixed original stock to an adjustable stock, probably intended for carbine, that has a shorter spring and shorter, lighter buffer. I like the adjustable stock but it doesn't always cycle correctly. Do you think an H1 buffer is the right weight to try?
Get a heavier buffer, extra power spring, or get an A5 buffer system, which is a rifle spring adapted for collapsible stock.
Outstanding video. I learned a lot about buffers that I didn't know before watching this video. Thank you!
What Buffer & spring would you suggest for a 450 Bush with a 20" barrel?
Im having cycling issues (failure to feed & sometimes extract) but i don't have a table full of buffers & springs to test, so before i go spend a lot of money (ammo included) i would like an expert opinion.
Ok u confused me....? In the last video i watched about this subject due to my 458Socom build they said an H2 buffer would be best for my round........ so which is it?lol
I have a 11.5” barrel. Adjustable gas block. H1 buffer. If I add h2 buffer I should be able to turn down the gas block? Allowing less gas to flow in?
this is exactly the information i need. thanks! i just grabbed a PA-15 multi. have been looking into just a few things to help it run smooth. i dont want to add a bunch of accessories. i just want it to be dependable.
14.5 mid? I haven’t dug deep on the problem yet but could it be the buffer? The rifle cycles fine and I’m getting good ejection but it wont lock back on the last round. Any suggestions?
Does the buffer weights supposed to slide back an forth inside the buffer tube? One of my rifles does it, doesn't help with stealth mode, while carrying it quietly. Thanks
I need one buffer video for 308 builds
I don't know if this is really a question, or just info for you to maybe address in some other Buffer-centric video sometime. I'm a novice to building on AR-15 platform and usually do a lot of research before buying each piece. In building an AR-15 Pistol in 9mm, I got the Armaspec Sound Mitigation AR-9 Buffer (ARM158-9). What I discovered was that the guide rod was so damn long, I could not cycle the BCG back into the buffer tube far enough. Saw on a blog somewhere that a SME was helping another novice and speculated that he had gotten a rifle-length buffer kit for a carbine-length stock/brace. I didn't see anywhere in the specs of this buffer where I could have caught that mismatch. Is there ever an end to the countless fuck-ups before learning all that is needed to know? ;-) GREAT VIDEO! You're a great organizer and presenter of straightforward content.
Hmm... just bought an H2 for my 9” 300 blk out build. I wonder if it would cycle suppressed/non suppressed and subs/supers
I have a mid length gas system in 16 inch 223 wylde is is safer to just to go just to go with a H1 buffer?
Great tutorial. I noticed my brass being thrown forward of the firing line just the other day. I figured something was wrong and since it was gifted to me I was going to tear it completely down. My gut feeling is they used an off the shelf carbine buffer. If that the case I'll switch out o a H3 and see what happens. Very good tutorial.
I tried an H-1 on my rifle when I noticed it ejecting into the 1:00-2:00 area. Next range trip I had the first "short stroke" ever with that rifle. Went back to the lighter buffer....no more short strokes. good luck...maybe your rifle will like the new buffer.
Would a standard carbine buffer be fine for a 6.5 creedmoor 24inch barrel?
The best informative video about buffers, clear explanation, quality sound and picture, and no none sense, thank you.
Nomatter what I do, my ejection path is at a constant 1-1:30 position. I'm able to cycle from 3oz all the way up to 5oz. It seems the heavier I go, the less distance the round will be thrown but still all in the exact same direction. What's crazy to me is that when I go with the 5oz weight I can still cycle lower power 223 like pmc bronze and the rifle will still lock back on empty mag but with even low pressure to higher pressure rounds when using the heavier buffer the rounds fall out of the rifle in such a silly looking way like a little brass turd plopping out right underneath my rifle. I ended up just going with 4oz because it seemed to feel the best and also I have less worry of any malfunctions. It's crazy to me how much more my AR kicks with just 1oz less buffer weight. You would never think you could ever feel something with that little difference. Rifle is a 16" Ruger AR 556. Switched out their buffer and buffer spring with a sprinco carbine white spring and buffer that's customizable as well as switching out their bcg to a son's of liberty gunworks complete bcg.
Sounds like your gas port is so oversized that no amount of buffer weight or heavy spring can compensate. You will likely need an adjustable gas block to tame that beast. Check out this video from SOTAR for an in-depth understanding. th-cam.com/video/eAuTHPdUchU/w-d-xo.html
I'm building a 18 inch with rifle length gas system and a carbine length buffer tube. What weight of buffer should I be looking for?
Probably best explained buffer video. Kudos
I drove the pin out of my oem an bought some weights ,thank you great explanation
so .223 55g with 16wylde barrel which buffer weight i get?
H or H2 ?
thanks for the great video. Subscribed immediately. I combined a V Seven 11.25 308 Upper with a LaRue lower and put a Tailhook plus a Sylvan Arms folder on it. I was worried about the buffer spring and weight. After watching this video I chose spring and weight and it runs like a dream!
Wow I did not know you had another channel! I love this video!
My 3 Colt m4a1socoms came with h2 buffers my 2 Colt 6920s had h1 buffers.I replaced the h1 buffers in my 6920s with h2s.A properly sized gas port on a carbine and the use of good ammo should be able to function better with h1 or h2 buffers.
I have the same exact gun mat!!!
So is h1 too heavy for carbine gas systems 16"barrel?
Thanks for the great vid without all the extra unneeded crap!
Building ar47 what buffer will be good the upper has a carbine length gas system
Do you have a video on the combination of springs to use with the buffer or does any spring work
What would someone recommend for a 16in 308 ar10?
so ive been raised shooting guns but never really knew exactly what happens between parts but as ive gotten older ive understood alot more but my question that i havent found an answer to is what happens if the polymer tip on the buffer is broke
Good information. What is the brand of that last one?
KAK same people that make the shockwave blade pistol brace
dude that kak buffer is awesome! Anyone have hands on experience with it. work well?
Very new to AR15s and building my first one. So buffers are always based on the gas system correct? For carbine length I need a carbine buffer and so in?
Thank you for all the info, just to double check though.... so if I'm runnin a 10.5 inch ar pistol that's over gased and I may run it suppressed more then not, I should run an h2 or h3 buffer?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Same question. I get a failure to eject on rare occasions and I have a hunch my buffer might be too light.
Thanks. This MAY be the answer to my problem.
Anyone know about ww-ar15s? I have a stock one and it's great but I suspect it could be better.
What would you suggest for a 5.56 nato and a 7.62x39 ar build ??
H2
For both or just the 7.62x39??
Do you really need to mess with buffer and buffer spring if you have adjustable gas block? If the issue that this (adding heavier buffer) is trying to fix, then addressing it at the source seems preferable. No?
How many people actually have an adjustable block?
What buffer weight would you recommend for a 16" barrel, 450 Bushmaster build?
Thanks for the video.
My ar ejects the casings at the 1 o'clock position and it's very, very consistent at it.
It's over gased try a heavier buffer
That is way over gassed. You should consider an adjustable gas block. If that isn't in your skill set, an H3 and Sprinco orange spring will probably work for you.
I have an Aero precision M5-E1 chambered in 6.5 Grendel, 22' barrel, rifle length gas system, magpul prs gen 3 stock and a muzzle break. I also have a Timney trigger with a 1.5# pull weight. My shell ejection pattern is at 1 o'clock and if I don't pay attention to a firm complete trigger pull and follow through, I will have a double (Bump fire)...What weight and type of buffer tube do you recommend to mitigated these symptoms? The rifle runs fine but at higher pressure and brass indications even at lower charge weight loads.
Maybe try an adjustable gas block to regulate the gas. Also you should be running a rifle length buffer tube for a rifle length gas system. Rifle length heavy buffers are not common I believe people run a spacer to use carbine buffers and springs.
The M5 cant possibly shoot 6.5 grendel... M5 will shoot 6.5 creed, or the M4 will shoot 6.5 grendel....
I noticed my 16" mid gas AR was ejecting to the 1:00 / 2:00 position. I tried the next step up to the H-1 ( 3.8 0z) buffer. Ejection moved to the 3:00/ 4:00....great. Then the first time ever fail to lock bolt open after last shot. So...back to the 3 oz and a slightly forward ejection. Is there a change of buffer spring that would balance this? I need a video about springs...maybe.
get a sprinco buffer spring
Yes, a springco spring would help.