I used to work in a camera shop that also did prints. The amount of times people brought in their macbooks, showed me their lightroom edit, while I watched them turn the screen brightness to max, and then complain that their prints were too dark and that was somehow my fault was astounding....
@@wadephillips6052 the other classic being people who did not understand aspect ratios. 'I need a refund, you cut things off the edges of most of my photos' 'let's see the photos. Oh, what camera do you have? Oh, that has a different aspect sensor, didn't you pre-crop them for the size print you wanted? Oh, okay, but surely you saw on the preview screen when ordering that the edge was cut off, like it said may happen in the disclaimer you agreed to.' 🤦🤦😂😂
Bravo, that was very helpful. I think everybody who wants to print pictures needs this, especially considering the costs of high-quality prints in larger formats.
Great advice, I use your TH-cam as a source to calibrate my screen to, as I know if your channel looks correct to me on my monitor, I know I am set well.
Thanks, but that’s really not a good test. It’s actually the opposite. You’re doing what looks correct to you - rather than what’s actually in the files
Matt I have used color munki for years to calibrate monitors & also color checker passport to get three different bodies & any lenses to match each other for continuity, it works.
Excellent video. We had a wonderful trip to Eastern Europe a number of years ago, and I produced a book of photos and had it printed. The results were underwhelming. Bought the colorchecker Display Pro and calibrated my monitor, et voila! Photos as printed by standard bulk printer are much punchier and as I had them on screen. I don't calibrate my 27" mac everyday, but the software does remind me to do it once a month, which is good enough for me.
Hi just to know I justo bought the colorchecker and didn't know what to put in the part where there is white led, or rgb or something like that.. what did you put?
just done a job where the customer was complaining about files being too bright, obviously he was using a Mac; a reproduction job, my monitor is calibrated, files exposed for ETTR and batch processed for correct white balance and camera/color profile; for him to do the final edit before use; it took me almost one hour to explain that I gave him the best possible file for him to work on, first he started ranting on Ansel Adams zone system, he is from the old school, expose for the darks and develop for the lights, to which I had to explain that in digital is the opposite first, expose for the lights and postprocess for the darks, then break the bombshell that Macs are way too bright to start with....
I wonder how many people even carry out the basic set up routines that are built into their monitor? I did that and then used an external calibration device and it was too close to worry about.
Spyder X or i1 Display Pro? I have both and they both seems to show a different kind of image. I bought the Spyder X since it was the cheapest at the time, after a year the i1 because I've read that is the best calibration tool somewhere. But when I google it now it will say something else. Confusing stuff.
Unfortunately, from your link… SpyderX Pro Colorimeter is not compatible with 14" and 16" 2021 MacBook Pro Liquid Retina XDR displays. I would love to be able to calibrate my M1 Macbook Pro 16 without going through the confusing Apple methodology. Is there a device that’s compatible with liquid retina and Apple silicon laptops yet?
This might be a dumb question, I have an older ColorMunki Photo from Xrite, but it cannot run the current Mac OS versions. Can I calibrate my screen on an old computer, and then export the profile to my new computer? I hate having to buy a new calibrating device😢 Thanks
Also Apple Thunderbolt displays and Macbook pros (in Ventura 13.1) do not seem to have contrast control only brightness control. If anyone has some (reasonably priced) suggestions for altering the contrast, let alone the colours, pls let me know. Tnx in advance
@@mattgranger thanks Matt for the response. What could I be doing wrong? I use a Spyder pro c at 6500k, gamma 2.2, 120 brightness and it still looks strange? So the monitor should look natural after it’s calibrated?
I used to work in a camera shop that also did prints. The amount of times people brought in their macbooks, showed me their lightroom edit, while I watched them turn the screen brightness to max, and then complain that their prints were too dark and that was somehow my fault was astounding....
This is a fact, I also used to work in a photolab and had the same experience.
@@wadephillips6052 the other classic being people who did not understand aspect ratios.
'I need a refund, you cut things off the edges of most of my photos'
'let's see the photos. Oh, what camera do you have? Oh, that has a different aspect sensor, didn't you pre-crop them for the size print you wanted? Oh, okay, but surely you saw on the preview screen when ordering that the edge was cut off, like it said may happen in the disclaimer you agreed to.'
🤦🤦😂😂
Bravo, that was very helpful. I think everybody who wants to print pictures needs this, especially considering the costs of high-quality prints in larger formats.
A pair of EIZO h/w auto calibrating monitors casually mentioned = USD 16K in case anyone was wondering :-)
Yep. I’ve been using them a long time and won’t be replacing any time soon
Great advice, I use your TH-cam as a source to calibrate my screen to, as I know if your channel looks correct to me on my monitor, I know I am set well.
Thanks, but that’s really not a good test. It’s actually the opposite. You’re doing what looks correct to you - rather than what’s actually in the files
Matt I have used color munki for years to calibrate monitors & also color checker passport to get three different bodies & any lenses to match each other for continuity, it works.
Excellent video. We had a wonderful trip to Eastern Europe a number of years ago, and I produced a book of photos and had it printed. The results were underwhelming. Bought the colorchecker Display Pro and calibrated my monitor, et voila! Photos as printed by standard bulk printer are much punchier and as I had them on screen. I don't calibrate my 27" mac everyday, but the software does remind me to do it once a month, which is good enough for me.
yep those iMacs are P3 color space which is not true Adobe RGB. I would never use a Mac for critical printing.
Hi just to know I justo bought the colorchecker and didn't know what to put in the part where there is white led, or rgb or something like that.. what did you put?
just done a job where the customer was complaining about files being too bright, obviously he was using a Mac; a reproduction job, my monitor is calibrated, files exposed for ETTR and batch processed for correct white balance and camera/color profile; for him to do the final edit before use; it took me almost one hour to explain that I gave him the best possible file for him to work on, first he started ranting on Ansel Adams zone system, he is from the old school, expose for the darks and develop for the lights, to which I had to explain that in digital is the opposite first, expose for the lights and postprocess for the darks, then break the bombshell that Macs are way too bright to start with....
Can't I screen shot a particular image of colors and then feed it through something online for analysis
No. A screen shot shows what the computer thinks is being shown, not what is actually shown
I wonder how many people even carry out the basic set up routines that are built into their monitor? I did that and then used an external calibration device and it was too close to worry about.
Spyder X or i1 Display Pro? I have both and they both seems to show a different kind of image. I bought the Spyder X since it was the cheapest at the time, after a year the i1 because I've read that is the best calibration tool somewhere. But when I google it now it will say something else. Confusing stuff.
Were you ever going to do a "Budgetophy" episode Monitor edition where you review budget color accurate monitors the way you once did for cameras?
I’ve done videos on displays, not budgetography series per se, but comparing different levels 👍🏼
Does bit depth have any effect in this conversation?
Unfortunately, from your link… SpyderX Pro Colorimeter is not compatible with 14" and 16" 2021 MacBook Pro Liquid Retina XDR displays. I would love to be able to calibrate my M1 Macbook Pro 16 without going through the confusing Apple methodology. Is there a device that’s compatible with liquid retina and Apple silicon laptops yet?
i doubt it. Those mac P3 monitor color spaces are not true Adobe RGB.
This might be a dumb question, I have an older ColorMunki Photo from Xrite, but it cannot run the current Mac OS versions. Can I calibrate my screen on an old computer, and then export the profile to my new computer? I hate having to buy a new calibrating device😢 Thanks
No that won’t work. The calibration profile is specific to the display, in a given room+light, at a given time.
Thank you Matt, that's good information.
For FREE That's PoinT
Also Apple Thunderbolt displays and Macbook pros (in Ventura 13.1) do not seem to have contrast control only brightness control. If anyone has some (reasonably priced) suggestions for altering the contrast, let alone the colours, pls let me know. Tnx in advance
Check out the Spyder calibrator I linked.
Should I export as sRGB if sending off to a printing company?
Check with the lab, but I usually use aRGB
@@mattgranger Thanks Matt, do you mean sRGB?
@@nespressoman Adobe RGB
Calibrating my monitor always makes my screen look awful
Then it’s not accurately calibrated
@@mattgranger thanks Matt for the response. What could I be doing wrong? I use a Spyder pro c at 6500k, gamma 2.2, 120 brightness and it still looks strange?
So the monitor should look natural after it’s calibrated?
Please change your video title.