haha.... that's what I never understood about calibrating a monitor, so great, it looks calibrated for you maybe, but then it's sent to someone else, or printed using a print shop who's monitor is calibrated differently. It seems totally pointless. I could see this being a thing 20 year ago when monitors looked like shit, but screens now are so bomb looking for almost everything, either Samsung or Apple, that calibrating seems redundant.
I'm genuinely impressed that you managed to brick a PC with monitor calibration. That's amazing. Even WinXP had monitor calibration profiles, all you had to do was reset it to the default.
Do you recommend calibrating MacBook pros? I have a MacBook pro late 2015, and I hear mixed opinions on whether they need calibrating or not. Might be a good idea since it's a older now.
@@Jml2475 actually, macbooks are really bad in this. check some more detailed reviews, which are not that brand based. calibrating (and they are off from the factory) imacs is a mess.
It's extremely important when the designer(s) or photographers will try to make their designs or photos look good to their eye. If you're a photographer stuck with an uncalibrated monitor, you can also just try to give the photos the best possible dynamic range and then match a known color via numbers. That's why they used to use those 18% gray cards (because good monitors were extremely rare). Take a picture of the card with a known 18% gray and then adjust the photo color so that card reads 18% gray by numbers, and the rest of the photo will be good. So you can get pretty far with just the numbers, and your calibrated monitor should not be causing you to clip any part of the spectrum. I work in print and I've seen some horror stories; i.e the designer works out of his basement with a yellow incandescent light and tries to visually match colors on his 8-year-old CRT monitor to the prints he's holding in his hand.
My monitor, after a Spyder 5 pro calibration, has a slight green tint to it when i use chrome or other programs. In Lightroom it looks perfect. I've learned to live with it. Also, Spyder should have included those same test images on a piece of paper or cardboard for you to judge.
Lol, I've been annoyed with that color shift on chrome and could not figure out whether it's green or magenta. Now that you mentioned it, I agree it's green. I used my sypder 5 pro on my girlfriend's mac and it seems her chrome still looks close to white.
Man I feel your pain from your first scenario! Color Management is a very daunting subject to fully understand. A few pro-tips: Your image will look the same in any application that is color managed and/or uses the ICC color profiles that gets embedded with your image (sRBG, Adobe RGB, P3, etc). Always embedded your color profiles to you images when exporting from Photoshop or other applications. If you have a high gamut monitor (ie: Adobe RGB, P3, etc) don’t use Windows default photo viewer, it is not color managed and won’t use the embedded ICC color profiles from your image (your image will look over saturated), you might not notice this if your monitor is not high gamut. As of now Chrome, Firefox, Safari all support ICC color profiles from images so they’ll look the same in those browsers. Some services (ie: LinkedIn, I believe Twitter as well) will strip out the ICC profile from your images, which is why you might see them differently when uploaded. Facebook coverts your ICC profile to their own version of sRGB, so for the most part they’ll hold up color wise to how they looked.
What about about clients that barely can use computers? Should I offer photography and monitor calibration service too so they can see pictures as I intended?
@@piyush.ochani I use Bridge. If you have an Adobe CC subscription or older versions of CS you can use that. If you have the Adobe Photography Plan, many other's use Lightroom. There are a few other alternative photo viewers outside Adobe as well that might work well. I haven't personally had any experience with them.
Just because you calibrate your monitor does not mean that what you see is how it will print. It means that the monitor is showing you accurate colors to what it is told. Printing uses an entirely different color gamut, with a different process, on a variety of papers. Yes, if you want accurate prints you need to calibrate your monitor. That is just step one though. After that you need to soft proof your file with a profile that is set up for your specific printer, inks, AND SPECIFIC paper. Your computer will use this to show you a representation of what it could look like and will show you which colors you see on your monitor that CANNOT ever be printed on your combination of printer and paper. You can choose how to replace these colors. Point is, calibrating your monitor has little to do with how your print will look. Calibrating your monitor is to make sure that what you see, is what everyone else sees, particularly in color shift, as we all know what tiny color shifts do to the mood of your image.
@Phil W Some online companies have profiles on their website that you can download for soft proofing. It's super useful when they do! If you're in the US, try AdoramaPix
It's actually frustrating because I'll work on my photos on my calibrated monitor, then send them to other people who of course are using uncalibrated monitors, so I still don't know that they'll see the photos the way I intended them to look. I had this experience recently where I brought a whole CD of images that looked great on a calibrated monitor, and the guy I gave the CD too was looking at them on this god-awful office computer monitor that just looked horrendous. Sigh.
@@sethleigh8850 they don't need to have their monitors calibrated. sure they're "experts" and should have it somewhat at a decent setting, but they won't change your pictures before printing. they'll get them, print them, notify you that the job is done and get on with their lives.
Logan Cressler this video was about calibrating your monitor. There is a separate process to calibrate your printer - if you are one of the few who actually print.
@@RuiPalmeira yeah in my case the people with the uncalibrated monitors weren't printing them, they were using them for their own on-screen purposes. My point was that making photos look great on a calibrated monitor only helps you to the fullest if the people looking at your images are doing so on calibrated monitors. It's still better than making images look great on an uncalibrated monitor and then sending them to people looking at them on uncalibrated monitors, unless yours was somehow badly calibrated the same way as everyone else's. In my case I've noticed a lot of cheap desktop monitors tend to be badly calibrated in the "too yellow" direction, while a lot of cheap laptop screens tend toward "too blue." It's just a personal observation from calibrating my own and a few friends' screens, nothing scientific, and my view could be skewed by my small sample size.
I have been using color calibration software for computers (apple, and PC) since the late 90's with both Xrite, and Datacolor. Both company's have provided excellent quality over the years, and have improved the ease of doing a calibration quite a bit in that timeline. Your description of having different colors on different applications seems like something went very wrong with your calibration process. Because what calibration does is create an ICC profile that gets embedded in your OS (and if you know where to find it, you can delete it without having to do a reinstall). Working properly it should affect all applications on that computer you are working on. Another tip: If you want your prints to match what you see on your monitor, you also need to create printer profiles for your printer paper. And that's for each type of paper you are using on that printer. So say you have a gloss, semi gloss, and luster papers you are using on a printer, then you have to create 3 paper profiles (one for each paper). Now some paper company's offer some baseline paper profiles for printer models on their website. But if you want the most accurate print, you will want to create profiles yourself. I myself currently use Xrite Colormunki system as I can use it for both monitor calibration, and making printer profiles in one unit. So just remember that if your objective is printing, monitor calibration is only half the work.
I can use this to calibrate my monitor. Then I download a printer profile for a certain paper from a printing company, say Luster. Everything should look right then if I load that printer profile into photoshop when looking at my photo?
14:40 - Actually, that's why it's extra importent to have a calibrated display, because if you share an image you edited on a monitor that has a cool temperature, it's going to look even more cool on a "vivid" display that someone else has.
Desktop and Laptop displays right out of the box are set up for gaming or browsing web pages. Calibrating your monitor is only relevant for local prints or sending prints to a lab. Also, the various Windows picture apps can screw with image displays. Also, the calibration stays with the video card, not the monitor.
No. If I use my eyes to edit in Lightroom on one of my laptops, then export .jpg to my Samsung S9, the images look way too saturated. I realize that different phone screens are different. But if I am editing to upload to Instagram, I want my laptop screen to be calibrated to some sort of standard that gives my images the best shot to look the best on the most phones.
It would have been interesting to calibrate two identical screens. Each screen with a different Spyder callibrater from the same type and than compare them to see how consistent these callibrators are. I saw such comparison a few years ago. It showed a huge difference in callibration results of two same type Spyder callibrators. After seeing this comparison I stopped thinking of calibrating my screen...
I've used the Spyder 5 Pro for a long time. Can't get great prints without a properly calibrated monitor. I have a Dell U2518D, which was very close out of the box, but, as usual, too bright with green and blue tints to maximize brightness. Perfect calibration with the pro.
for true identical prints as possible, you need calibrated printer also, and actually, you need different profile for every different paper you use, since it does make difference. same goes if you use different type of ink (let say, other brand or some spacial, waterproof ink), too, but lets leave it there. Few (actually, more then few) years ago i did play with this things, calibrated monitor, calibrated printer and then scan all prints on calibrated scanner (this was all non-pro devices, only 4-color printer etc) and results were night and day, specially when looking ion every different colour channel, where you really can see, how wrong printer work from their factory settings. edit: just found whole thing, if somebody interested, here's the link. it's in Slovenian, but i think you can figure things out www.slo-foto.net/clanki/136/kalibracija-tiskalnikov most important it this proofing (last picture), as mentioned before www.slo-foto.net/slike/clanki/Kalibracija_tiskalnikov/razlika-vse-web-500.jpg left column in printed (and scanned) picture without profile, middle column is reference picture (original photo,non printed) and right column is print with calibration profile. please remember, this is print on low cost, cmyk printer.
Bryan Stewart my factory calibrated Dell 30" was great right out of the box, and the spider did not change the colour at all, only reduced the brightness a little. I recommended to people to buy a good calibrated monitor and save your money on the spider.
I don't use PC but in a Mac It's super easy and works great. Tray a mac. And as a professional photographer, I humbly think that it's very important to have the monitor calibrated.
"i hope windows 10 has improved..." No it hasn't. The default windows photos app is still not color managed ie it ignores the color profiles embedded in the photo. I've switched to Adobe bridge as my primary photo viewer. Chrome, Facebook, Instagram etc are color managed but they convert images to srgb which is the internet standard. Also the internet standard white balance is 6500K so calibrating the display to 6500K is crucial.
Hi, I was thinking the same, because when I calibrate my computer with built-in Pantone sensor on my labtop, the lightroom , chrome and Capture One gets the calibrated profile but not the Windows Photos software and internet explorer. I am going to try Adobe Bridge as well, but just wondering how did it work for this guy? did his colour calibrator did some thing special with Windows software colours?
Each individual monitor is different even if they are the same product. You need an IPS monitor since these are able to display the true color but keep in mind that over time color temp and brightness will change, so regular calibration is necessary (about every month depending on how important it is for you). When calibrating many screens to show the same color range, you are limited to colors which all the monitors are capable of showing so you will get the least vivid red, green blues.
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"I can't believe technology has improved in the last 10 years"
You know, when you change or remove words from a quote, it's not a quote anymore. That's not what he said. "I can't believe it, it actually worked! Technology..."
It's not just for photo and printing. Watching youtube or any video is much more enjoyable when calibrated. The older monitors benefit greatly from calibration because it is impossible to manually set RGB to ideal setting because the blue are the first to fade. The calibration gives you many years of life for any monitor unless it is really broken. The basic monitor color calibration priced at $100 range is a great starting point for everyone... Datacolor or x-rite.
BTW, while at the end Windows Photo Viewer was color calibrated, the current "Photos" in Windows 10 (go check, windows update has deleted your Photo Viewer and you just have Photos now) is not color calibrated. I use a free calibrated viewer called FastPictureViewer.
Windows isn't color managed (yes you see the desktop change but that's not all). This means an application must support it. Most web browsers aren't color-managed (I know Firefox is if you turn it on in hidden settings). So you will always see a difference between a program that respects your color profile (like Photoshop) and one that doesn't (Windows Photo viewer for instance). In a (modern) Mac environment, the OS takes care of color management, so most if not all applications are color-managed even if they are not coded for it. A Windows user myself (but had to use Macbooks for a couple of years for work) this is a big advantage.. but I can live with it. I actually use the difference between Photoshop / Affinity Photo and Windows Photo Viewer to to a double-check. I know what I see in Photoshop is 'correct', but I don't want it to look too crazy uncalibrated. I also do some last-minute checks on my mobile phone (which is also way to saturated and has a white-balance way off) just to get a feel of how it looks on different scenarios... that is, if I care (as in, for serious images :P). In music studios this is not that different. They have very special reference speakers (studio monitors) that will produce a sound that is 'true' and helps the mixing engineers locate problems in the sound. But in the end they also test with Apple Earbuds and playing back on car stereo's.. because that is where 99% of music is 'consumed' these days :).
@@telescopicS627 i didn't say color management doesn't work.. I said Windows itself is not color managed, which is true. The desktop will not honour your display profile (only the gamma ramps that are loaded into your graphics card/onboard graphics). So only color managed applications will truly behave ok with your display profile loaded. For example, Windows photo viewer (the windows7 default viewer app ) will honour your profile, but 'photos' (the new windows10 app style default viewer) will not, and so they will look different (depending on how much calibration your monitor needed). Irfanview for example is not color managed out of the box, but it can be turned on in the settings.
@@jorismak Maybe we're talking about different things, but that hasn't been my experience at all. In win 10 photos look exactly the same in any app. I calibrate display under advanced settings in color management. You can see the colors change when the profile loads seconds after logging in.
@@kainthjaskaran You are doing something wrong with windows and your video drivers. You can override settings with AMD and NVIDIA controller panels. Also some programs will take over. Heck even youtube on CHROME and EDGE will take over your colors if you playback with HDR on....
The part about monitor brightness is probably the most important part of this video. The number of times I've seen images on "infinite white" backgrounds that have terrible masking and eraser marks on them because the editors brightness was WAY too high is astounding. All those artifacts will print out and people will wonder why. For doing video and especially print work calibration is super necessary IMO.
I'm Jack's Nipples yes, or at least less bright that the default on your monitor. Often monitors are setup extra bright to look good in the store, but then it blows out (aka clips) the highlights. The contrast and saturation are also usually boosted up quite a bit.
I like my screen bright too, but I'm a pixel peeper and I use tools like...exposure and contrast... to check for such errors in bright areas (as well as for dust spots, etc). I, personally, won't lower my screen brightness and I have my screen calibrated for sRGB using the native screen brightness set to my liking. Beautiful, accurate colors (especially paired ith the x-rite passport calibrator for photos - the skin tones come alive!!!), but nice and bright display. And no errors, because I can use the damn tools at my disposal. I think the brightness thing is more of an issue to those who are fairly new or don't pay attention to detail.
@@TheUltimateBlooper Cranking the levels to the extreme is a great way of seeing those issues. Sort of like doing false colors with video. Usually that's how I show people their monitor settings aren't showing them the full gamut of colors. But I think there is a reason the color calibration tools measure brightness and have you turn down the brightness as one of the steps to calibration. But to each their own, do what works for you.
The only missing element is a calibration comparison. The calibration is only really helpful if a) it lets side-by-side monitors match each other or b) the monitor matches the printout.
Not calibrated until you get and match prints. Doesn't matter when it was printed as long as it wasn't color corrected by the lab, or the file changed.
Small tip for some. I work 100% from a laptop and outsource my printing. My print company offers free colour calibration matching their printers. I take my laptop in and they do it, no charge. Of course you can’t do this if your print company isn’t within reach. Maybe check with your print supplier before spending ?
Still use Spyder Pro 3, unfortunately Datacolor forgot to update the software for Mac. It can calibrate but at the end saving profile is not possible, but if buy a new one it comes with newer software. Had to change to DisplayCal. Thanks Datacolor.
I have the studio version of this for doing my monitor and printer and the printing calibration is just amazingly crazy. Makes a world of difference for sure. I completely back the Spyder X calibrator 100%.
Easy to revert back to default on a Mac 🖥. Just go to system preferences and select “monitor” then choose “color” select the default display and hit done! Many other ICC profiles can be found there to choose from as well. Windows must have some sort of option select different profiles. It may be buried in the system settings.
I totally understood your feelings, that happened to me as well when I got the Spyder 4 in 2014, and I told myself I will never touch a calibration again, spent so much time to read up, used 3rd part apps, to finally give up on it. Now that I want to bring my laptop out for work and realised it's not colour in sync, I decided to see if there's any updates to it, and chance upon your video. THANK YOU :)
as an aside; depending on your video card, you can go into the color settings there and choose "external" or "local" ... local typically will revert the color settings back to the video card setting which are the original settings on the monitor. I use Spyder Pro and find that the color calibration on my (less expensive and not able to calibrate in Kelvin) monitors are too dark based on the ambient light in my room so I toggle between Spyder settings and the Nvidia settings.
I began to practice my photography with a digital camera in the mobile phone era. When I calibrated my laptop with colormunki, I got the mess you are talking about. The same photo looks very different in my laptop than in other uncalibrated devices that my clients use.
i have 2 things to tell to you: - Many monitors have more than 100% SRGB color space that's why they are too saturated. - Spyder is a POS, the calibration method used is awful. Get an x-rite i1 display pro colorimeter, that is a much more serious tool.
SpyderX is decently close hardware wise but both x-rite and spyders software is still garbage. It puts to much emphesis on doing the job quick. With either device you should be using something like displaycal and preferable a monitor or display card that skips windows all together.
SpiderX and Xrite are the industry standards, both really good, I use Xrite, but would be equally comfortable with the spiderX... Calibrating the monitor is only the first step, you also need to calibrate your printer and create a calibrated colour profile for each of your cameras, and if you want to be really accurate, you should create a camera profile each time you change lighting conditions.... I would recommend to have a calibrated set up, not only for printing, but for anyone doing commercial photography, being products, fashion, or anything else as a matter of fact, it will eliminate any disputes, and will make sure that any external third party using the pictures will have a product fit for purpose and as close to reality as technologically possible...
idk man... i don't think it's needed too much. Like every screen and device has it's own colour management. Just consider many phones have auto brightness, blue filter and apple's true tone all kinda throws colours to wack. Even with printing, if you use one screen all the time you can estimate and use test prints contact sheets with different settings to get to that decent print. IMO screen calibration is worth it if you collaborate works with other people or work with multiple screens.
wakojako49 If it works for you and you are satisfied, by all means keep on doing it. I do feel inclined to reply tho in case someone else read this. Devices might have different settings, yes. Even if they have the same settings every device is unique. On top of that every device is operated in it’s unique environment. This is an argument for - not against - using color management and standards. If your intent is to publish on social media and your target audience are laymen the impact might be small, yes. But if your intent is either different or wider and/or your target audience is professional than it makes a very big difference. For instance there is no chance an art director would hire someone for final art that doesn’t showcase it in his or her own material. Using the same devices on a daily basis one gets used to them and learn to predict their output, yes. But doing color management and following standards is done with that purpose: Better estimation. Test prints needs to be done anyway but hopefully only once. Doing them again and again will get very expensive quickly. And doing it by yourself is only possible if you actually have access to the equipment - that exact printer - which simply won’t be the case in a professional setting. All business is collaboration, it includes at least two parties. In a photographical setting this is at least the photographer and the client. If you as a photographer do it in your own time for your own sake then color management isn’t necessary. But that isn’t professional photography.
Jan Klimek Once again if it works for you under certain circumstances then by all means. In a professional setting, which is the context here, this is not the case. If nothing else simply because you don’t treat either your customer or their target audience with the respect a business agreement deserves, ie making sure you deliver the best result possible regardless of the recipient.
I have the Dell S2716DG, but was never really happy with it and was looking to get another monitor. When talking to a Best Buy salesman, he suggested doing a calibration first, before considering a replacement. I bought the SpyderX Elite and it really worked well, to the point that i like this monitor and have no plans to swap it out now. It really does a good job for my needs and is also much better on my eyes as well. I highly recommend this product.
Thanks for the pointed and direct product review. For a sponsored bit it came across as a honest assessment and good information as it relates to your use with reasonable consideration for users not matching your level of production. I was considering this purchase before watching your video, color calibration is a tricky issue, and your approval goes a long way to legitimizing the investment for me even if I’m not working as a professional.
If you have made color separations in the past it will be very helpful for you to understand the difference between printing to RGB and printing to CYMK. Huge difference.
I had a photo I really liked, but when I got it printed professionally it didn't look the same. I calibrated my Linux PC and now it looks the same onscreen as my printed copy. So basically I'm no longer mis-adjusting color temp and brightness in post.
Nice to hear that Bryan. I am also running Linux and I'm looking on how to calibrate my display. Do you mind sharing what software/hardware you used? Thanks!
I used Display Cal v3.2.2 and an older Spyder 2 that I borrowed from my photo club. As I recall I had to find some drivers to install and had to explicitly enable Spyder2 in the software.
FYI for anyone that runs into this issue described at the start ... Color profiles that photoshop and the like use are software, OS level you would have to change the profile and without knowing how to change it back in the display driver itself to revert then a wipe would fix it but not needed. Easiest way to revert the profile via windows is hit the start/windows key on the keyboard then start typing calibrate. Open Display color calibration hit next until it's all the way done and don't change anything all the way until it's finished. It should now save as the default profile settings. You can run it again and try to calibrate by hand if you want or run whatever it is you plan to use.
yes you need to calibrate it because all your clients have calibrated monitors and they will notice your work as bad also you need to calibrate the monitor on your dslr or mirror-less camera
@@saniwada i never had my work printed ... my clients want there work as quick as possible to post on social media. so i view it first on an ipad iphone and reasonable android .. if the colors look good ..its ready for export no hassle to me : as long it pays my bills and the client is happy my work here is done In the film days my granddad never calibrated his screen , yet his pics look wickedly good up to this day These companies just wanna sell you stuff
I have been been using spyder calibrator on my displays for over 6 years and never had any issues. Also, when I wanted to turn off calibration I just went to the calibration app and settings to turn it off.
This is why you need a real monitor like Benq Sw2700pt that is adobe rgb and hardware calibrate a monitor. Color calibrating is mandatory if your client plans on printing your images. Other wise you images can make the overall exposure darker or brighter, and it can also effect the colors. Basically your monitor is not representative of what the colors and brightness levels actually are. This is really noticeable when printing albums or photos.
There is an option i remember that i changed back also after calibrated an old monitor, no need to reinstal windows. When i calibrated my benq monitor with i1 display pro from xrite it was a fast process and the calibration was good did not had to change it and it passed a few years since then. i also i can chose when to use it very easy from my monitor dedicated buttons for profiles
Now that you calibrated the monitor, you need to set the calibrated profile in Photoshop under the Edit Tab=>Color Settings=>Working spaces - RGB. Also, if you want to print out the images, try to ask the printer what color profile they are using, and you should set the same color profile in Photoshop for the CMYK workspace. Otherwise, you may end with a much worse printed image. I had to do this at my job (a digital printing company) to ensure that all the colors are matched from the computer monitors to the printed image.
I purchased that a similar Datacolor device and the software would hang straight after click next after entering the serial number. As for their software support, the same person answered my questions and seemed to forget everything we had discussed before. And after I told him I had done everything according to instructions but it still didn't work, they simply stopped responding, which reinforced my good feeling on returning the item before waiting for a response. So my experience is, not only is the Datacolor software horrible, but the support as well.
The reason your images look different on IE than Photoshop, is because you're saving in AdobeRGB which is used for printing. If you export in SRGB it will look proper on your monitor. Hope this helps! your monitor is calibrated properly, it's how you export the file. :) Please calibrate your monitor guys, Companies spend lots of time and money picking their colors, they won't be happy if you give them and off colour photo or video.
No, we always save our jpegs to sRGB. The reason is that IE used to (not sure what Edge does now) pull a different color profile than what windows and/or Adobe would pull. So Picture viewer might pull the sRGB038209384yadayada profile but PS would pull the new calibrated profile. -P
I am on my second version of spyder product. In my opinion if you are doing pro work then you need to be using a calibrated monitor if doing stills or video. The probe is the only way to know if you are getting it right.
When I calibrated my monitor about 5-6 years ago, I encountered the color destruction like u did. I just recalibrated my new monitor and I think they did something to correct it quite abit.
i worked at a printers 25 years ago. i ran a poster printer with a similar little colour calibrator/reader/sensor. The brains were in the main printer but not so much different tech apart from the app as opposed to manual calibration. The Printer and accessories was not much less than one million pounds, so 2 hundy plus doesn't sound so bad to colour cali a screen or many. i want this but im afraid it would barely get any use after the first go, apart from checkups now and then and random friend/family monitors who have eyes that work enough to tell. Would be great if a friend was to share the payment and ownership. Good vid.
I agree in the early days of monitor calibration it was a pain trying to get colors right. I had much less success with the Datacolor and switched to X-rite. Once I finally figured out calibrating monitors (and printers) I could never go back to an un-calibrated setup! It's been over 10 years since I've been using calibrated setups and now I can tell if a monitor is calibrated or not instantly because I'm so used to seeing colors how they should be.
invite someone who knows what he's talking about, when you don't have the knowledge yourself -- one example: brightness (technically correct: luminance) of the monitor should match your ambient viewing conditions. There is no single "correct" monitor brightness as there is no "correct" clothing to go outdoors which would fit to all ambient (temperature / weather) conditions!
I'm work on 100% brightness, because if you work at low brightness, it will always seem that the photo is not bright enough and you want to clarify it in the editor. But as it turns out later, it was necessary to increase the brightness of the screen.
What one perceives mostly as "brightness" in a picture is the relation of the midtones to the shadows and highlights -- so the "gamma" or gradation. Of course the maximum luminance of the monitor is also important, as our perception is also dependent on the absolute level (see "Stevens effect") -- although with current monitors we're not really getting into that high luminance range anyways. Take a color-matched created print and view it under a standard D50 lighting and then adjust the luminance of the monitor to match the print visually. Take care of creating similiar background conditions (ideally similar gray) for both the picture on the screen and the print. Search for "Fogra Softproof handbook" when you want more info on that matter (the german version is more up to date btw).
Short answer: YES Long answer: YES, absolutely. Even for gaming and media. Seriously, most screens are garbage. Having spent so much time on calibrated displays I can instantly tell if a screen is out of whack or not. I use an i1 Display Pro by X-Rite, which to me is a very nice little device and the software is very fast and flexible.
If you were worried about bricking your system which BTW this is not the case with colour calibration - use Macrium Reflect you could literally back up your entire OS as an image file while you are still using the OS ( I wouldn't do it however while you are doing the calibration as that defeats the purpose ) and then if your calibration went nuts and you couldn't figure out how to go back - restore your system including ALL of your installed software and settings back to exactly what it was before you started - I.E not what windows considered you started with which would keep bodgy settings. I recommend Macrium as it is perfect for doing full system backups, differential backups, drive resizing for if you get a new NVME or SSD and the best part is the ransomware protection aspect of it. It will save your skin and has saved mine now a couple of times. Plus even if you have to clean things off completely once restored you've lost nothing but some time but much less time than you would re installing everything manually.
Do you have any go-to guides (video or article/text) you'd recommend I read to learn calibration? I actually am good with computers (in general) but have never touched monitor calibration and not looking to blow $500 on hardware - so I'll likely rent something like a Datacolor Spyder 5 Pro for $30 and try to smash it out in one weekend. But I don't know what I don't know.
@@simonwood8637 As far as calibration goes it's basically use hardware to detect it digitally or eye-ball it with something like: www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ And using Nvidia's control panel.
The only browser with color management is Firefox with color management enabled. If you use any other browser or if you use Firefox with color management disabled your photos might look different. The same applies for the software you use to watch images. If I remember corretly, the only software with color management is Irfanview with its color management plug-in. If you use an app with no color management, the embedded profile is not recognised and the image is displayed not corretly. You can use the following website to test wether your broswer or software/app can show an image correctly: fotovideotec.de/browser_farbmanagement/farb-testbilder.html It's German, but you can either just look at the images or translate the website online.
I have a spyder 4 and it definitely changes the colors of everything I edit. My monitors came outta the box super blueish. Once I calibrated it, it changed the colors completely and made everything I edited look much better.
There are external CD-ROM drives for those who don’t have a Cd-ROM Drive. I have CD’s that have hardware drivers on them. I also want to burn a backup image of my computer as well in case I need to boot off a cd and do a reinstall. I did get a laptop with a CD-ROM drive.
Print calibrated monitors only resolves half the issue. Printers need calibration too. Printer color profiles are equally sensitive and can produce wildly different results and paper type can impact how those colors look as well so typically printer calibration is depended on the media type as well. Now what sucks IMO is when some browsers support calibrated images and others don't. On the same monitor, an image with a color profile can look entirely different on a monitor.
This has always been something that i thought about...after a lot of thinking, i just decided to not calibrate...lets say i calibrate my monitor...to what it should be calibrated to? will the other person on the other side of the globe watch my image on a calibrated screen or not? too complicated high tech shit for me. The only calibration i care about, is when i have to print, that s it for me...i dont care about anything else.
I had the same opinion for a long time, but I read something recently that resonated with me. The people sitting at home on their uncalibrated monitors are USED to the way that their screen makes things look. So for all the professional media they watch that was edited with a calibrated monitor, it will look normal for them on their screen because it is what they are used to. But if you don't edit with a calibrated monitor, and in reality it has too much saturation, or a green tint or something, it will look strange to the other person because its different from what they are used to seeing. Does that make sense? So even if the other people don't have calibrated screens, they are used to images looking a certain way on THEIR screen. In order to make it look normal for THEM, you need to calibrate your monitor.
Don't know about then, but now they write the calibration into the OS. It's like overriding your monitor's driver. That means the colors are regardless of the application you use. In face, the OS's own interface colors are changed accordingly.
@@lenzwizard Sure. On windows you have .ICM files. I actually have multiple since I've found what's good for reading isn't the one I want for photo editing You assign the icm to the display. IOWs, I assign one to the laptop and another to the second monitor
I use a Pantone Huey, bought for XP, originally, and it refused to work on Win 7, (obsolete software); there was no software update from the Pantone website, either. A few weeks ago a software update appeared for this model and now I have it connected again and it calibrates perfectly. What I see on the screen is what comes out of the printer. New laptops and monitors are retailed, deliberately, with boosted Brightness and Contrast, (especially Contrast), and this is what makes you say, "Wow!", and gets you reaching for your cash to spend. Ironically it is inaccurate Contrast that is the biggest problem for Shadows so when you print shadow 'detail' all you get is Black, (blocked shadows).
mbickerdike17 while that’s true, starting from a calibrated baseline means that the differences between all those uncalibrated viewers won’t be as drastic as if he were producing them in an uncalibrated set up.
Here's a great tip, if you are a person that prints images or you want Client Prints to look as expected.... after calibrating your monitor, then toning your images... get a few made by your vendor of choice, a chart, BW and Color image. then I manually adjust the monitor slightly to closer match to the actually printout. I find calibrating to make the large 90% adjustment, but then I manually adjust the 10% for my monitor and print vendor of choice.
:D :D :D :D :D I Understand problem, what You talk about Your last time. I'm calibrating monitors for photographers over 9 years. Hundreds of different models with maybe 20 different devices. You did almost everything wrong from beginning... "duplicated" monitors :D :D :D :D :D P.S. I still NEVER saw NONE good tutorial about Calibration from A to Z.
pelikan88 hardy ha ha. I bought my Dell30" with factory 100% rgb cal, then blew money on a spider, and guess what, the colour beofre and after cal was exactly the same (no surpise) and the bightness changed a small amount. Buy a good monitor and save money on the calibrator.
i use my HDTV as my PC monitor and adjusted the color and picture settings so i see how it looks like on my phone, at least as close as i could. most everyone's faces are glued to their phone and tablets anyway where there isn't much customization to do on their screens.
welcomed to the 19th century, what will be next perhaps horseless carriages or telecommunications. I have been calibrating video screens professionally since 1988 using gels and SMPTE color bars.
Hi I noticed that your channel did a pervious review on the xrite i1 studio how would you say it compares to the spyder in this review? Out of the two which would you recommend printing is key for me and I want to be able to calibrate my printer and monitor using one tool thank you any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I think you guys never calibrate your monitor 10 years ago. That time windows XP was new, and it was impossible to color calibrate the monitor for every program, most of them just completely refuse windows color calibration.
"I will never ever do it again in my life". Also "oh you want to pay me to shill your products? Screw my philosophies." And you expect us to trust you when you don't even trust yourself.
I'm confused as to making all monitors look the same with the elite version. Isn't that what its suppose to do in the first place? Also shouldn't your experience be completely void because you ignored the bright light hitting the monitor warnings? Considering how many times it popped up sounds important.
In studios with multiple monitors they won't typically all be the same exact model and even if they are they won't be the exact same age. Not all monitors can be calibrated to the same level of exactness. Some monitors can display 99 percent of sRGB colors and some only 80 percent, some can display Adobe RGB and some can't, as examples. So, sometimes it's more important to have all your monitors look the same than it is to have a bunch of monitors all calibrated differently. A product that can do good multi monitor calibration should be able to create a calibration profile that all the monitors are capable of displaying. To be a truly calibrated workflow though you need to also calibrate the end display as well, wether that's a print or another monitor. This is why as he mentioned in the video calibration isn't as important if all your viewers are just looking at your image on their phones. Every phone has different colours and brightness levels so how it looks on your monitor isn't going to be how it looks anywhere else regardless of calibration.
Here's something I can't figure out. I calibrated my monitor using the Spyder 3 Express. I have the i1 Profiler software which I got for my Canon Pixma Pro-100 and I've looked at every i1 Profiler video to see if I can do a monitor/print match. Nothing came close. So here's what I did, using various photo print papers from Canon, Ilford to cheap glossy paper I used Photoshop CC and launched the Canon Print Studio Pro. In the Canon Studio Pro these were my settings: Printer: Canon Pro 100 Series, Media Type: Plain Paper, Print Quality: Standard, Layout: Borderless, Color Mode: Use ICC Profile, Printer Profile: Canon Pro 100 3 Photo Paper Plus Semi-gloss, Rendering Intent: Relative Colormetric, Color Balance: All "0's". When I made a print, believe it or not, the print came close to matching the picture on my monitor. Using glossy to semi-gloss paper it came close to matching my monitor. My conclusion, I'm staying with these settings. BTW, I'm using Windows 10.
Fstoppers I don't understand when you say "brick your computer"...when you last calibrated. I calibrated my first monitor during the windows XP days and it created a profile that was placed in window startup. And yes, it affected other programs such as my games I played back then but if you remove that startup file, your monitor would return to pre-calibrated status, and that's what I did, I manually fired it up when I was editing. Fast forwarding, they prices is still there same, a profile is created and is included when first starting up windows. Remove it and manually start it.
Can this spyder or other PC monitor tools be used to calibrate a TV? theoretically, it should help a bit right? or is this a no-no? can't find any videos about using calibration tools on PC to TV or vice versa.
I have a strong suspicion that the calibrated/uncalibrated comparison images actually change more than they ought to in the SpiderX screen that appears after calibration. Why? Because if you calibrate the monitor in another program, and then redo it in SpiderX, and then check that the overall calibration files almost match (and visually look the same in other programs), the before/after images are still quite different. It warms them up and boosts the contrast slightly. I'm not a professional though, it's just a hunch.
I'm looking at your calibrated monitor on my uncalibrated monitor.
How meta
@GameingUboxings+ Aww, did I hurt your insecurity? Enjoy watching Fast and Furious vs the Fourth Reich.
I watched it on the same Dell U2718Q monitor he calibrates. Now I need mine calibrated.
So the tree *would* make a sound.
haha.... that's what I never understood about calibrating a monitor, so great, it looks calibrated for you maybe, but then it's sent to someone else, or printed using a print shop who's monitor is calibrated differently. It seems totally pointless. I could see this being a thing 20 year ago when monitors looked like shit, but screens now are so bomb looking for almost everything, either Samsung or Apple, that calibrating seems redundant.
I'm genuinely impressed that you managed to brick a PC with monitor calibration. That's amazing.
Even WinXP had monitor calibration profiles, all you had to do was reset it to the default.
I miss XP. Free tools and all.....
@@SuperEddietv he has the right to mislead the masses ...some companies need to sell stuff..give the guy a break..we are just idiots using our brains
You said that exact same thing about another TH-camr. Do you go around posting the same comment for a bunch of different people?
@@jameschandler4276 hahaha so busted! :p
all versions of windows do pretty sure all you have to do is reinstall the graphics driver
I love that I was watching a monitor being calibrated but the music told me we were bringing the ring to Mordor.
This is like watching ads for 4K TV's on your HD TV and being impressed at how good the image quality is.
Could be legit if bitrate is higher.Maybe commercial is higher bitrate than regular scheduled content. Or could be uncompressed 4.4.4?
@@davidjohansson1416 no way. u need 300 MB/s (megaBYTES per second) for 1080p60 uncompressed video.
okey@@andrejrockshox
If you print that image now it still might look different. You need to calibrate your printer aswell
Calibrate EVERYTHING
Don’t forget to calibrate the calibrator
Different profiles for different papers through different printers.
Fstoppers who calibrates the calibrator calibrator to know that it’s the correct calibration to be calibrating the calibrator
Lee knows all about calibrating. They taught him at Ritz.
I swear by Spyder products. Changed my color correction life! Seriously It is one of the first things I do when I get a new screen.
Do you recommend calibrating MacBook pros? I have a MacBook pro late 2015, and I hear mixed opinions on whether they need calibrating or not. Might be a good idea since it's a older now.
@@Jml2475 actually, macbooks are really bad in this. check some more detailed reviews, which are not that brand based. calibrating (and they are off from the factory) imacs is a mess.
Welcome to iso gamut calibrated monitor. I work in print and this is actually more important than people think.
It's extremely important when the designer(s) or photographers will try to make their designs or photos look good to their eye. If you're a photographer stuck with an uncalibrated monitor, you can also just try to give the photos the best possible dynamic range and then match a known color via numbers. That's why they used to use those 18% gray cards (because good monitors were extremely rare). Take a picture of the card with a known 18% gray and then adjust the photo color so that card reads 18% gray by numbers, and the rest of the photo will be good. So you can get pretty far with just the numbers, and your calibrated monitor should not be causing you to clip any part of the spectrum. I work in print and I've seen some horror stories; i.e the designer works out of his basement with a yellow incandescent light and tries to visually match colors on his 8-year-old CRT monitor to the prints he's holding in his hand.
My monitor, after a Spyder 5 pro calibration, has a slight green tint to it when i use chrome or other programs. In Lightroom it looks perfect. I've learned to live with it.
Also, Spyder should have included those same test images on a piece of paper or cardboard for you to judge.
Lol, I've been annoyed with that color shift on chrome and could not figure out whether it's green or magenta. Now that you mentioned it, I agree it's green. I used my sypder 5 pro on my girlfriend's mac and it seems her chrome still looks close to white.
Man I feel your pain from your first scenario! Color Management is a very daunting subject to fully understand.
A few pro-tips:
Your image will look the same in any application that is color managed and/or uses the ICC color profiles that gets embedded with your image (sRBG, Adobe RGB, P3, etc). Always embedded your color profiles to you images when exporting from Photoshop or other applications. If you have a high gamut monitor (ie: Adobe RGB, P3, etc) don’t use Windows default photo viewer, it is not color managed and won’t use the embedded ICC color profiles from your image (your image will look over saturated), you might not notice this if your monitor is not high gamut. As of now Chrome, Firefox, Safari all support ICC color profiles from images so they’ll look the same in those browsers. Some services (ie: LinkedIn, I believe Twitter as well) will strip out the ICC profile from your images, which is why you might see them differently when uploaded. Facebook coverts your ICC profile to their own version of sRGB, so for the most part they’ll hold up color wise to how they looked.
Not many people understand color profiles, photography has become so easy that people simply have less and less skills.
which image viewers should be used then?
@@piyush.ochani bridge i think is free
What about about clients that barely can use computers? Should I offer photography and monitor calibration service too so they can see pictures as I intended?
@@piyush.ochani I use Bridge. If you have an Adobe CC subscription or older versions of CS you can use that. If you have the Adobe Photography Plan, many other's use Lightroom.
There are a few other alternative photo viewers outside Adobe as well that might work well. I haven't personally had any experience with them.
Just because you calibrate your monitor does not mean that what you see is how it will print. It means that the monitor is showing you accurate colors to what it is told. Printing uses an entirely different color gamut, with a different process, on a variety of papers.
Yes, if you want accurate prints you need to calibrate your monitor. That is just step one though. After that you need to soft proof your file with a profile that is set up for your specific printer, inks, AND SPECIFIC paper. Your computer will use this to show you a representation of what it could look like and will show you which colors you see on your monitor that CANNOT ever be printed on your combination of printer and paper. You can choose how to replace these colors.
Point is, calibrating your monitor has little to do with how your print will look. Calibrating your monitor is to make sure that what you see, is what everyone else sees, particularly in color shift, as we all know what tiny color shifts do to the mood of your image.
@Phil W Some online companies have profiles on their website that you can download for soft proofing. It's super useful when they do! If you're in the US, try AdoramaPix
It's actually frustrating because I'll work on my photos on my calibrated monitor, then send them to other people who of course are using uncalibrated monitors, so I still don't know that they'll see the photos the way I intended them to look. I had this experience recently where I brought a whole CD of images that looked great on a calibrated monitor, and the guy I gave the CD too was looking at them on this god-awful office computer monitor that just looked horrendous. Sigh.
@@sethleigh8850 they don't need to have their monitors calibrated. sure they're "experts" and should have it somewhat at a decent setting, but they won't change your pictures before printing. they'll get them, print them, notify you that the job is done and get on with their lives.
Logan Cressler this video was about calibrating your monitor. There is a separate process to calibrate your printer - if you are one of the few who actually print.
@@RuiPalmeira yeah in my case the people with the uncalibrated monitors weren't printing them, they were using them for their own on-screen purposes. My point was that making photos look great on a calibrated monitor only helps you to the fullest if the people looking at your images are doing so on calibrated monitors. It's still better than making images look great on an uncalibrated monitor and then sending them to people looking at them on uncalibrated monitors, unless yours was somehow badly calibrated the same way as everyone else's. In my case I've noticed a lot of cheap desktop monitors tend to be badly calibrated in the "too yellow" direction, while a lot of cheap laptop screens tend toward "too blue." It's just a personal observation from calibrating my own and a few friends' screens, nothing scientific, and my view could be skewed by my small sample size.
I have been using color calibration software for computers (apple, and PC) since the late 90's with both Xrite, and Datacolor. Both company's have provided excellent quality over the years, and have improved the ease of doing a calibration quite a bit in that timeline. Your description of having different colors on different applications seems like something went very wrong with your calibration process. Because what calibration does is create an ICC profile that gets embedded in your OS (and if you know where to find it, you can delete it without having to do a reinstall). Working properly it should affect all applications on that computer you are working on.
Another tip: If you want your prints to match what you see on your monitor, you also need to create printer profiles for your printer paper. And that's for each type of paper you are using on that printer. So say you have a gloss, semi gloss, and luster papers you are using on a printer, then you have to create 3 paper profiles (one for each paper). Now some paper company's offer some baseline paper profiles for printer models on their website. But if you want the most accurate print, you will want to create profiles yourself. I myself currently use Xrite Colormunki system as I can use it for both monitor calibration, and making printer profiles in one unit. So just remember that if your objective is printing, monitor calibration is only half the work.
I can use this to calibrate my monitor. Then I download a printer profile for a certain paper from a printing company, say Luster. Everything should look right then if I load that printer profile into photoshop when looking at my photo?
14:40 - Actually, that's why it's extra importent to have a calibrated display, because if you share an image you edited on a monitor that has a cool temperature, it's going to look even more cool on a "vivid" display that someone else has.
All you really know is that the original meets standard specifications.
Desktop and Laptop displays right out of the box are set up for gaming or browsing web pages. Calibrating your monitor is only relevant for local prints or sending prints to a lab.
Also, the various Windows picture apps can screw with image displays. Also, the calibration stays with the video card, not the monitor.
not necessarily. Some monitors can be calibrated directly into their LUT system.
If you're editing, use the right tool for the job. I have a Eizo monitor, I sure hope it's not calibrated for gaming.
No. If I use my eyes to edit in Lightroom on one of my laptops, then export .jpg to my Samsung S9, the images look way too saturated. I realize that different phone screens are different. But if I am editing to upload to Instagram, I want my laptop screen to be calibrated to some sort of standard that gives my images the best shot to look the best on the most phones.
@@mrcraggle Right out of the box, it probably is. That's what Lee was referring too the bright, blue tones of the OEM settings.
No it's most relevant for good accurate photo editing.
It would have been interesting to calibrate two identical screens. Each screen with a different Spyder callibrater from the same type and than compare them to see how consistent these callibrators are.
I saw such comparison a few years ago. It showed a huge difference in callibration results of two same type Spyder callibrators. After seeing this comparison I stopped thinking of calibrating my screen...
I've used the Spyder 5 Pro for a long time. Can't get great prints without a properly calibrated monitor. I have a Dell U2518D, which was very close out of the box, but, as usual, too bright with green and blue tints to maximize brightness. Perfect calibration with the pro.
for true identical prints as possible, you need calibrated printer also, and actually, you need different profile for every different paper you use, since it does make difference. same goes if you use different type of ink (let say, other brand or some spacial, waterproof ink), too, but lets leave it there. Few (actually, more then few) years ago i did play with this things, calibrated monitor, calibrated printer and then scan all prints on calibrated scanner (this was all non-pro devices, only 4-color printer etc) and results were night and day, specially when looking ion every different colour channel, where you really can see, how wrong printer work from their factory settings.
edit: just found whole thing, if somebody interested, here's the link. it's in Slovenian, but i think you can figure things out www.slo-foto.net/clanki/136/kalibracija-tiskalnikov most important it this proofing (last picture), as mentioned before www.slo-foto.net/slike/clanki/Kalibracija_tiskalnikov/razlika-vse-web-500.jpg left column in printed (and scanned) picture without profile, middle column is reference picture (original photo,non printed) and right column is print with calibration profile. please remember, this is print on low cost, cmyk printer.
Bryan Stewart my factory calibrated Dell 30" was great right out of the box, and the spider did not change the colour at all, only reduced the brightness a little.
I recommended to people to buy a good calibrated monitor and save your money on the spider.
I don't use PC but in a Mac It's super easy and works great. Tray a mac. And as a professional photographer, I humbly think that it's very important to have the monitor calibrated.
I agree. Calibration is super important if you're a pro. Although, it doesn't make a difference if it's a mac or pc.
Kick the mac in the trash homie
"i hope windows 10 has improved..."
No it hasn't. The default windows photos app is still not color managed ie it ignores the color profiles embedded in the photo. I've switched to Adobe bridge as my primary photo viewer. Chrome, Facebook, Instagram etc are color managed but they convert images to srgb which is the internet standard. Also the internet standard white balance is 6500K so calibrating the display to 6500K is crucial.
Hi, I was thinking the same, because when I calibrate my computer with built-in Pantone sensor on my labtop, the lightroom , chrome and Capture One gets the calibrated profile but not the Windows Photos software and internet explorer. I am going to try Adobe Bridge as well, but just wondering how did it work for this guy? did his colour calibrator did some thing special with Windows software colours?
@@humayunmrd my guess is that he ignored those problems because it was a sponsored video, and isn't the calibrators fault.
Each individual monitor is different even if they are the same product. You need an IPS monitor since these are able to display the true color but keep in mind that over time color temp and brightness will change, so regular calibration is necessary (about every month depending on how important it is for you). When calibrating many screens to show the same color range, you are limited to colors which all the monitors are capable of showing so you will get the least vivid red, green blues.
"I can't believe technology has improved in the last 10 years"
That's my university with 15 years old software and they still think technogoly didn't improve.
You know, when you change or remove words from a quote, it's not a quote anymore. That's not what he said.
"I can't believe it, it actually worked! Technology..."
It's not just for photo and printing. Watching youtube or any video is much more enjoyable when calibrated. The older monitors benefit greatly from calibration because it is impossible to manually set RGB to ideal setting because the blue are the first to fade. The calibration gives you many years of life for any monitor unless it is really broken. The basic monitor color calibration priced at $100 range is a great starting point for everyone... Datacolor or x-rite.
It’s important. We got footage back from a video company. Skin tones looked red. They had just gotten a new monitor and wasn’t calibrated.
BTW, while at the end Windows Photo Viewer was color calibrated, the current "Photos" in Windows 10 (go check, windows update has deleted your Photo Viewer and you just have Photos now) is not color calibrated. I use a free calibrated viewer called FastPictureViewer.
There is a way to add "photo viewer" back to windows 10. But you are right, the photos app in windows 10 does not abide to color calibration.
Windows isn't color managed (yes you see the desktop change but that's not all). This means an application must support it.
Most web browsers aren't color-managed (I know Firefox is if you turn it on in hidden settings).
So you will always see a difference between a program that respects your color profile (like Photoshop) and one that doesn't (Windows Photo viewer for instance).
In a (modern) Mac environment, the OS takes care of color management, so most if not all applications are color-managed even if they are not coded for it. A Windows user myself (but had to use Macbooks for a couple of years for work) this is a big advantage.. but I can live with it.
I actually use the difference between Photoshop / Affinity Photo and Windows Photo Viewer to to a double-check. I know what I see in Photoshop is 'correct', but I don't want it to look too crazy uncalibrated. I also do some last-minute checks on my mobile phone (which is also way to saturated and has a white-balance way off) just to get a feel of how it looks on different scenarios... that is, if I care (as in, for serious images :P).
In music studios this is not that different. They have very special reference speakers (studio monitors) that will produce a sound that is 'true' and helps the mixing engineers locate problems in the sound.
But in the end they also test with Apple Earbuds and playing back on car stereo's.. because that is where 99% of music is 'consumed' these days :).
Color management works fine on Windows 10. It's not the easiest utility, but it works.
@@telescopicS627 i didn't say color management doesn't work.. I said Windows itself is not color managed, which is true. The desktop will not honour your display profile (only the gamma ramps that are loaded into your graphics card/onboard graphics).
So only color managed applications will truly behave ok with your display profile loaded.
For example, Windows photo viewer (the windows7 default viewer app ) will honour your profile, but 'photos' (the new windows10 app style default viewer) will not, and so they will look different (depending on how much calibration your monitor needed).
Irfanview for example is not color managed out of the box, but it can be turned on in the settings.
@@jorismak Maybe we're talking about different things, but that hasn't been my experience at all. In win 10 photos look exactly the same in any app. I calibrate display under advanced settings in color management. You can see the colors change when the profile loads seconds after logging in.
@@telescopicS627 You must not be using a wide colour gamut monitor.
@@kainthjaskaran You are doing something wrong with windows and your video drivers.
You can override settings with AMD and NVIDIA controller panels. Also some programs will take over. Heck even youtube on CHROME and EDGE will take over your colors if you playback with HDR on....
The part about monitor brightness is probably the most important part of this video. The number of times I've seen images on "infinite white" backgrounds that have terrible masking and eraser marks on them because the editors brightness was WAY too high is astounding. All those artifacts will print out and people will wonder why. For doing video and especially print work calibration is super necessary IMO.
I'm Jack's Nipples yes, or at least less bright that the default on your monitor. Often monitors are setup extra bright to look good in the store, but then it blows out (aka clips) the highlights. The contrast and saturation are also usually boosted up quite a bit.
I like my screen bright too, but I'm a pixel peeper and I use tools like...exposure and contrast... to check for such errors in bright areas (as well as for dust spots, etc). I, personally, won't lower my screen brightness and I have my screen calibrated for sRGB using the native screen brightness set to my liking. Beautiful, accurate colors (especially paired ith the x-rite passport calibrator for photos - the skin tones come alive!!!), but nice and bright display. And no errors, because I can use the damn tools at my disposal.
I think the brightness thing is more of an issue to those who are fairly new or don't pay attention to detail.
@@TheUltimateBlooper Cranking the levels to the extreme is a great way of seeing those issues. Sort of like doing false colors with video. Usually that's how I show people their monitor settings aren't showing them the full gamut of colors. But I think there is a reason the color calibration tools measure brightness and have you turn down the brightness as one of the steps to calibration. But to each their own, do what works for you.
The only missing element is a calibration comparison. The calibration is only really helpful if a) it lets side-by-side monitors match each other or b) the monitor matches the printout.
Not calibrated until you get and match prints. Doesn't matter when it was printed as long as it wasn't color corrected by the lab, or the file changed.
i've use datacolour sypder express for 6 years now .... a very good product
Did your calibrater degraded yet? The filter inside dont last very long, usually around 3-5 years.
Small tip for some. I work 100% from a laptop and outsource my printing. My print company offers free colour calibration matching their printers. I take my laptop in and they do it, no charge. Of course you can’t do this if your print company isn’t within reach. Maybe check with your print supplier before spending ?
Rice Crash i'd love to know who you use!!
Still use Spyder Pro 3, unfortunately Datacolor forgot to update the software for Mac. It can calibrate but at the end saving profile is not possible, but if buy a new one it comes with newer software.
Had to change to DisplayCal. Thanks Datacolor.
You should consider upgrading to the new SpyderX. It's new lens sensor is supposedly wayyyyyy more accurate and a lot closer to the Xrite products.
Lee, I really wanna see the same test, but now for printing. That's the final frontier right there.
Ya that scares me. Patrick did a video on this a year or so ago and it was incredibly complicated.
@@FStoppers Thanks. I'll look it up.
I have the studio version of this for doing my monitor and printer and the printing calibration is just amazingly crazy. Makes a world of difference for sure. I completely back the Spyder X calibrator 100%.
@@FStoppers check out ask damien...www.damiensymonds.net/what2buy_cal.html
Very knowledgeable.
Easy to revert back to default on a Mac 🖥. Just go to system preferences and select “monitor” then choose “color” select the default display and hit done! Many other ICC profiles can be found there to choose from as well. Windows must have some sort of option select different profiles. It may be buried in the system settings.
I also use the Spyder calibrator and love it. I can't work on anything not calibrated heck, I even had my work monitor calibrated.
I totally understood your feelings, that happened to me as well when I got the Spyder 4 in 2014, and I told myself I will never touch a calibration again, spent so much time to read up, used 3rd part apps, to finally give up on it. Now that I want to bring my laptop out for work and realised it's not colour in sync, I decided to see if there's any updates to it, and chance upon your video. THANK YOU :)
Did you print your photos after calibration?
How was it comparing to the screen look?
Nice Cat thats a good question that no one will answer ;/
as an aside; depending on your video card, you can go into the color settings there and choose "external" or "local" ... local typically will revert the color settings back to the video card setting which are the original settings on the monitor. I use Spyder Pro and find that the color calibration on my (less expensive and not able to calibrate in Kelvin) monitors are too dark based on the ambient light in my room so I toggle between Spyder settings and the Nvidia settings.
Fstoppers...i wished you woulda...Printed something. Just to see if the picture was as bright/dark as on your screen.
i doubt it. he would need to calibrate printer too. and there is RGB vs CMYK gammut problem...
We don't typically view photos through backlight.
I began to practice my photography with a digital camera in the mobile phone era. When I calibrated my laptop with colormunki, I got the mess you are talking about. The same photo looks very different in my laptop than in other uncalibrated devices that my clients use.
i have 2 things to tell to you:
- Many monitors have more than 100% SRGB color space that's why they are too saturated.
- Spyder is a POS, the calibration method used is awful. Get an x-rite i1 display pro colorimeter, that is a much more serious tool.
Yep
I've always heard the same thing, but im curious if the new SpyderX is better now that it has a lens like the X-rite has.
SpyderX is decently close hardware wise but both x-rite and spyders software is still garbage. It puts to much emphesis on doing the job quick. With either device you should be using something like displaycal and preferable a monitor or display card that skips windows all together.
SpiderX and Xrite are the industry standards, both really good, I use Xrite, but would be equally comfortable with the spiderX...
Calibrating the monitor is only the first step, you also need to calibrate your printer and create a calibrated colour profile for each of your cameras, and if you want to be really accurate, you should create a camera profile each time you change lighting conditions....
I would recommend to have a calibrated set up, not only for printing, but for anyone doing commercial photography, being products, fashion, or anything else as a matter of fact, it will eliminate any disputes, and will make sure that any external third party using the pictures will have a product fit for purpose and as close to reality as technologically possible...
Wait... a professional photographer that doesn’t do color management? 😳🥺
idk man... i don't think it's needed too much. Like every screen and device has it's own colour management. Just consider many phones have auto brightness, blue filter and apple's true tone all kinda throws colours to wack. Even with printing, if you use one screen all the time you can estimate and use test prints contact sheets with different settings to get to that decent print. IMO screen calibration is worth it if you collaborate works with other people or work with multiple screens.
wakojako49 If it works for you and you are satisfied, by all means keep on doing it. I do feel inclined to reply tho in case someone else read this.
Devices might have different settings, yes. Even if they have the same settings every device is unique. On top of that every device is operated in it’s unique environment. This is an argument for - not against - using color management and standards.
If your intent is to publish on social media and your target audience are laymen the impact might be small, yes. But if your intent is either different or wider and/or your target audience is professional than it makes a very big difference. For instance there is no chance an art director would hire someone for final art that doesn’t showcase it in his or her own material.
Using the same devices on a daily basis one gets used to them and learn to predict their output, yes. But doing color management and following standards is done with that purpose: Better estimation. Test prints needs to be done anyway but hopefully only once. Doing them again and again will get very expensive quickly. And doing it by yourself is only possible if you actually have access to the equipment - that exact printer - which simply won’t be the case in a professional setting.
All business is collaboration, it includes at least two parties. In a photographical setting this is at least the photographer and the client. If you as a photographer do it in your own time for your own sake then color management isn’t necessary. But that isn’t professional photography.
Gustaf Jarnling gustaf if you are not printing and got retina , why not? :)
Jan Klimek Once again if it works for you under certain circumstances then by all means.
In a professional setting, which is the context here, this is not the case. If nothing else simply because you don’t treat either your customer or their target audience with the respect a business agreement deserves, ie making sure you deliver the best result possible regardless of the recipient.
@@gjarnling Yeah that's wrong. The industry doesn't give a damn about calibration until it comes time to output reliable prints for advertising.
I have the Dell S2716DG, but was never really happy with it and was looking to get another monitor. When talking to a Best Buy salesman, he suggested doing a calibration first, before considering a replacement. I bought the SpyderX Elite and it really worked well, to the point that i like this monitor and have no plans to swap it out now. It really does a good job for my needs and is also much better on my eyes as well. I highly recommend this product.
Thanks for the pointed and direct product review. For a sponsored bit it came across as a honest assessment and good information as it relates to your use with reasonable consideration for users not matching your level of production. I was considering this purchase before watching your video, color calibration is a tricky issue, and your approval goes a long way to legitimizing the investment for me even if I’m not working as a professional.
If you have made color separations in the past it will be very helpful for you to understand the difference between printing to RGB and printing to CYMK. Huge difference.
I had a photo I really liked, but when I got it printed professionally it didn't look the same. I calibrated my Linux PC and now it looks the same onscreen as my printed copy. So basically I'm no longer mis-adjusting color temp and brightness in post.
Nice to hear that Bryan. I am also running Linux and I'm looking on how to calibrate my display. Do you mind sharing what software/hardware you used? Thanks!
I used Display Cal v3.2.2 and an older Spyder 2 that I borrowed from my photo club. As I recall I had to find some drivers to install and had to explicitly enable Spyder2 in the software.
@@bryanleaman5942 Great, thanks for the information!
FYI for anyone that runs into this issue described at the start ... Color profiles that photoshop and the like use are software, OS level you would have to change the profile and without knowing how to change it back in the display driver itself to revert then a wipe would fix it but not needed. Easiest way to revert the profile via windows is hit the start/windows key on the keyboard then start typing calibrate. Open Display color calibration hit next until it's all the way done and don't change anything all the way until it's finished. It should now save as the default profile settings. You can run it again and try to calibrate by hand if you want or run whatever it is you plan to use.
yes you need to calibrate it because all your clients have calibrated monitors and they will notice your work as bad
also you need to calibrate the monitor on your dslr or mirror-less camera
Calibration is important for printing and video work.
@@saniwada i never had my work printed ... my clients want there work as quick as possible to post on social media. so i view it first on an ipad iphone and reasonable android .. if the colors look good ..its ready for export no hassle
to me : as long it pays my bills and the client is happy my work here is done
In the film days my granddad never calibrated his screen , yet his pics look wickedly good up to this day
These companies just wanna sell you stuff
@@germardoumediagroup1472 your'e workflow is not the same as everyone else's. I'm a hobbyist and even I print my stuff for myself.
@@saniwada well it goes to not fix what is not broken
I have been been using spyder calibrator on my displays for over 6 years and never had any issues. Also, when I wanted to turn off calibration I just went to the calibration app and settings to turn it off.
This is why you need a real monitor like Benq Sw2700pt that is adobe rgb and hardware calibrate a monitor.
Color calibrating is mandatory if your client plans on printing your images. Other wise you images can make the overall exposure darker or brighter, and it can also effect the colors.
Basically your monitor is not representative of what the colors and brightness levels actually are. This is really noticeable when printing albums or photos.
There is an option i remember that i changed back also after calibrated an old monitor, no need to reinstal windows. When i calibrated my benq monitor with i1 display pro from xrite it was a fast process and the calibration was good did not had to change it and it passed a few years since then. i also i can chose when to use it very easy from my monitor dedicated buttons for profiles
Now that you calibrated the monitor, you need to set the calibrated profile in Photoshop under the Edit Tab=>Color Settings=>Working spaces - RGB. Also, if you want to print out the images, try to ask the printer what color profile they are using, and you should set the same color profile in Photoshop for the CMYK workspace. Otherwise, you may end with a much worse printed image. I had to do this at my job (a digital printing company) to ensure that all the colors are matched from the computer monitors to the printed image.
I purchased that a similar Datacolor device and the software would hang straight after click next after entering the serial number. As for their software support, the same person answered my questions and seemed to forget everything we had discussed before. And after I told him I had done everything according to instructions but it still didn't work, they simply stopped responding, which reinforced my good feeling on returning the item before waiting for a response. So my experience is, not only is the Datacolor software horrible, but the support as well.
Dry Creek Photo has your printer profiles. Always calibrate, color workflow is important and very misunderstood.
The reason your images look different on IE than Photoshop, is because you're saving in AdobeRGB which is used for printing. If you export in SRGB it will look proper on your monitor. Hope this helps! your monitor is calibrated properly, it's how you export the file. :) Please calibrate your monitor guys, Companies spend lots of time and money picking their colors, they won't be happy if you give them and off colour photo or video.
No, we always save our jpegs to sRGB. The reason is that IE used to (not sure what Edge does now) pull a different color profile than what windows and/or Adobe would pull. So Picture viewer might pull the sRGB038209384yadayada profile but PS would pull the new calibrated profile. -P
“Lee Morris - Calibrating The World Pt 2” 😂
I am on my second version of spyder product.
In my opinion if you are doing pro work then you
need to be using a calibrated monitor if doing stills
or video. The probe is the only way to know if you are
getting it right.
I would be curious to see if by calibrating your 2 monitors side by side, you would have the same result on both 🤷🏻♂️
When I calibrated my monitor about 5-6 years ago, I encountered the color destruction like u did. I just recalibrated my new monitor and I think they did something to correct it quite abit.
WHen saving images just make sure you save as sRGB, thats one of the main things. BUt i guess you know that already.
Hopefully
Been using datacolor for a year. It's super easy and works great.
Yeah, they do a great job. But I have heard claims that their system isn't as accurate as other colorimeters.
So the lesson here is, if you don't have a calibrator, dim your screen a smidge, and don't be afraid of the saturation slider
i worked at a printers 25 years ago. i ran a poster printer with a similar little colour calibrator/reader/sensor. The brains were in the main printer but not so much different tech apart from the app as opposed to manual calibration. The Printer and accessories was not much less than one million pounds, so 2 hundy plus doesn't sound so bad to colour cali a screen or many. i want this but im afraid it would barely get any use after the first go, apart from checkups now and then and random friend/family monitors who have eyes that work enough to tell. Would be great if a friend was to share the payment and ownership. Good vid.
Im glad that it was not just me it tool AGES to sort back to "normal"
I agree in the early days of monitor calibration it was a pain trying to get colors right. I had much less success with the Datacolor and switched to X-rite. Once I finally figured out calibrating monitors (and printers) I could never go back to an un-calibrated setup! It's been over 10 years since I've been using calibrated setups and now I can tell if a monitor is calibrated or not instantly because I'm so used to seeing colors how they should be.
How do you calibrate a printer?
invite someone who knows what he's talking about, when you don't have the knowledge yourself -- one example: brightness (technically correct: luminance) of the monitor should match your ambient viewing conditions. There is no single "correct" monitor brightness as there is no "correct" clothing to go outdoors which would fit to all ambient (temperature / weather) conditions!
I'm work on 100% brightness, because if you work at low brightness, it will always seem that the photo is not bright enough and you want to clarify it in the editor. But as it turns out later, it was necessary to increase the brightness of the screen.
What one perceives mostly as "brightness" in a picture is the relation of the midtones to the shadows and highlights -- so the "gamma" or gradation. Of course the maximum luminance of the monitor is also important, as our perception is also dependent on the absolute level (see "Stevens effect") -- although with current monitors we're not really getting into that high luminance range anyways. Take a color-matched created print and view it under a standard D50 lighting and then adjust the luminance of the monitor to match the print visually. Take care of creating similiar background conditions (ideally similar gray) for both the picture on the screen and the print. Search for "Fogra Softproof handbook" when you want more info on that matter (the german version is more up to date btw).
Short answer: YES
Long answer: YES, absolutely. Even for gaming and media.
Seriously, most screens are garbage. Having spent so much time on calibrated displays I can instantly tell if a screen is out of whack or not. I use an i1 Display Pro by X-Rite, which to me is a very nice little device and the software is very fast and flexible.
"I'm pretty good with computers" - says he had to reinstall windows to revert color calibration... guys, ignore this video he has no clue.
Hahahah, that’s true. It’s very easy to erase color profile
10 years ago you were in preschool
so stay quiet
@@DeltaModelX just finished uni, but ok. Pleb.
@@cogsincogs i said 10 years ago
plus you have finished uni but don't know what rounding is?
@@DeltaModelX yeah, I finished uni then. Dunno how you can defend this video, you must be as dumb as him.
If you were worried about bricking your system which BTW this is not the case with colour calibration - use Macrium Reflect you could literally back up your entire OS as an image file while you are still using the OS ( I wouldn't do it however while you are doing the calibration as that defeats the purpose ) and then if your calibration went nuts and you couldn't figure out how to go back - restore your system including ALL of your installed software and settings back to exactly what it was before you started - I.E not what windows considered you started with which would keep bodgy settings. I recommend Macrium as it is perfect for doing full system backups, differential backups, drive resizing for if you get a new NVME or SSD and the best part is the ransomware protection aspect of it. It will save your skin and has saved mine now a couple of times. Plus even if you have to clean things off completely once restored you've lost nothing but some time but much less time than you would re installing everything manually.
been calibrating my monitors for years, not really difficult to do 🤣🤣
Do you have any go-to guides (video or article/text) you'd recommend I read to learn calibration? I actually am good with computers (in general) but have never touched monitor calibration and not looking to blow $500 on hardware - so I'll likely rent something like a Datacolor Spyder 5 Pro for $30 and try to smash it out in one weekend. But I don't know what I don't know.
@@simonwood8637 As far as calibration goes it's basically use hardware to detect it digitally or eye-ball it with something like: www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
And using Nvidia's control panel.
The only browser with color management is Firefox with color management enabled. If you use any other browser or if you use Firefox with color management disabled your photos might look different.
The same applies for the software you use to watch images. If I remember corretly, the only software with color management is Irfanview with its color management plug-in. If you use an app with no color management, the embedded profile is not recognised and the image is displayed not corretly.
You can use the following website to test wether your broswer or software/app can show an image correctly: fotovideotec.de/browser_farbmanagement/farb-testbilder.html
It's German, but you can either just look at the images or translate the website online.
we have all been there, and had to do a Clean install of windows, thank you for the video/info.
I have a spyder 4 and it definitely changes the colors of everything I edit. My monitors came outta the box super blueish. Once I calibrated it, it changed the colors completely and made everything I edited look much better.
Does anyone make a computer with a CD rom anymore? I realize it's just "progress", but sometimes I don't appreciate forced obsolecence.
There are external CD-ROM drives for those who don’t have a Cd-ROM Drive. I have CD’s that have hardware drivers on them. I also want to burn a backup image of my computer as well in case I need to boot off a cd and do a reinstall. I did get a laptop with a CD-ROM drive.
Print calibrated monitors only resolves half the issue. Printers need calibration too. Printer color profiles are equally sensitive and can produce wildly different results and paper type can impact how those colors look as well so typically printer calibration is depended on the media type as well.
Now what sucks IMO is when some browsers support calibrated images and others don't. On the same monitor, an image with a color profile can look entirely different on a monitor.
This has always been something that i thought about...after a lot of thinking, i just decided to not calibrate...lets say i calibrate my monitor...to what it should be calibrated to? will the other person on the other side of the globe watch my image on a calibrated screen or not? too complicated high tech shit for me. The only calibration i care about, is when i have to print, that s it for me...i dont care about anything else.
I had the same opinion for a long time, but I read something recently that resonated with me. The people sitting at home on their uncalibrated monitors are USED to the way that their screen makes things look. So for all the professional media they watch that was edited with a calibrated monitor, it will look normal for them on their screen because it is what they are used to. But if you don't edit with a calibrated monitor, and in reality it has too much saturation, or a green tint or something, it will look strange to the other person because its different from what they are used to seeing. Does that make sense? So even if the other people don't have calibrated screens, they are used to images looking a certain way on THEIR screen. In order to make it look normal for THEM, you need to calibrate your monitor.
its under saturated because of the studio lights you had on. It takes into consideration the brightness of the room
Clickbait: Of course not, you fool. All those professional photographers/printers are fools.
Don't know about then, but now they write the calibration into the OS. It's like overriding your monitor's driver. That means the colors are regardless of the application you use. In face, the OS's own interface colors are changed accordingly.
Great video but you failed to show how you could undo the process if you don't like it.
It prompts you in the app dialog if you want to save the change
He doesnt know how... this guy obviously doesnt know shit about colour calibration or PCs for that matter
@@jimfeldman4035 but if you "save the change" can you later go back and undo that change?
@@lenzwizard Sure. On windows you have .ICM files. I actually have multiple since I've found what's good for reading isn't the one I want for photo editing You assign the icm to the display. IOWs, I assign one to the laptop and another to the second monitor
@@LucasJodokast he already admitted that about calibration.
I use a Pantone Huey, bought for XP, originally, and it refused to work on Win 7, (obsolete software); there was no software update from the Pantone website, either.
A few weeks ago a software update appeared for this model and now I have it connected again and it calibrates perfectly.
What I see on the screen is what comes out of the printer.
New laptops and monitors are retailed, deliberately, with boosted Brightness and Contrast, (especially Contrast), and this is what makes you say, "Wow!", and gets you reaching for your cash to spend.
Ironically it is inaccurate Contrast that is the biggest problem for Shadows so when you print shadow 'detail' all you get is Black, (blocked shadows).
Thing is you are calibrating your monitor to display images and videos that will be seen on uncalibrated devices lol.
mbickerdike17 while that’s true, starting from a calibrated baseline means that the differences between all those uncalibrated viewers won’t be as drastic as if he were producing them in an uncalibrated set up.
You calibrate first and foremost for print, and secondly for the reasons BLC mentioned.
Here's a great tip, if you are a person that prints images or you want Client Prints to look as expected.... after calibrating your monitor, then toning your images... get a few made by your vendor of choice, a chart, BW and Color image. then I manually adjust the monitor slightly to closer match to the actually printout. I find calibrating to make the large 90% adjustment, but then I manually adjust the 10% for my monitor and print vendor of choice.
:D :D :D :D :D
I Understand problem, what You talk about Your last time.
I'm calibrating monitors for photographers over 9 years. Hundreds of different models with maybe 20 different devices.
You did almost everything wrong from beginning... "duplicated" monitors :D :D :D :D :D
P.S. I still NEVER saw NONE good tutorial about Calibration from A to Z.
Well maybe do one genius lol
@@BertrandVan
I did it.
Just on my native language - (lietuvių kalba ) and not on TH-cam.
I never learn English.
What did you have the monitor on initially? Is there a default setting?
You obviously have NO idea what color management is all about?
pelikan88 hardy ha ha. I bought my Dell30" with factory 100% rgb cal, then blew money on a spider, and guess what, the colour beofre and after cal was exactly the same (no surpise) and the bightness changed a small amount. Buy a good monitor and save money on the calibrator.
Monitors need to be calibrated to the lighting conditions in the room in which you use them. Which is why no monitor can truly come calibrated.
Is that a question?
i use my HDTV as my PC monitor and adjusted the color and picture settings so i see how it looks like on my phone, at least as close as i could. most everyone's faces are glued to their phone and tablets anyway where there isn't much customization to do on their screens.
welcomed to the 19th century, what will be next perhaps horseless carriages or telecommunications. I have been calibrating video screens professionally since 1988 using gels and SMPTE color bars.
Hi I noticed that your channel did a pervious review on the xrite i1 studio how would you say it compares to the spyder in this review? Out of the two which would you recommend printing is key for me and I want to be able to calibrate my printer and monitor using one tool thank you any advice would be greatly appreciated.
You can’t Brick your computer lol 🤦🏻♂️
It’s not like a phone or Xbox
He actually did, a few months ago. I forget how. He got Dell to fix it after they initially refused to; posted a video about it.
Yeah, you can hose up a BIOS update. That'll brick a lot of laptops and low to mid end motherboards.
I installed Norton Antivirus once. My PC ran like a brick after that.
Great video. Will it give you the same result for video editing?
I think you guys never calibrate your monitor 10 years ago. That time windows XP was new, and it was impossible to color calibrate the monitor for every program, most of them just completely refuse windows color calibration.
Windows XP came out 2001 ... how is that new ^^
Thanks for walking us through it from beginning to end!
"I will never ever do it again in my life". Also "oh you want to pay me to shill your products? Screw my philosophies." And you expect us to trust you when you don't even trust yourself.
I also noticed 🧐
Way to be a dick.
Damn it's like people change in 10 years 😳 and are willing to try things again
I'm confused as to making all monitors look the same with the elite version. Isn't that what its suppose to do in the first place?
Also shouldn't your experience be completely void because you ignored the bright light hitting the monitor warnings? Considering how many times it popped up sounds important.
In studios with multiple monitors they won't typically all be the same exact model and even if they are they won't be the exact same age. Not all monitors can be calibrated to the same level of exactness. Some monitors can display 99 percent of sRGB colors and some only 80 percent, some can display Adobe RGB and some can't, as examples. So, sometimes it's more important to have all your monitors look the same than it is to have a bunch of monitors all calibrated differently. A product that can do good multi monitor calibration should be able to create a calibration profile that all the monitors are capable of displaying. To be a truly calibrated workflow though you need to also calibrate the end display as well, wether that's a print or another monitor. This is why as he mentioned in the video calibration isn't as important if all your viewers are just looking at your image on their phones. Every phone has different colours and brightness levels so how it looks on your monitor isn't going to be how it looks anywhere else regardless of calibration.
That looks super cool, exactly what I was looking for
Here's something I can't figure out. I calibrated my monitor using the Spyder 3 Express. I have the i1 Profiler software which I got for my Canon Pixma Pro-100 and I've looked at every i1 Profiler video to see if I can do a monitor/print match. Nothing came close. So here's what I did, using various photo print papers from Canon, Ilford to cheap glossy paper I used Photoshop CC and launched the Canon Print Studio Pro. In the Canon Studio Pro these were my settings: Printer: Canon Pro 100 Series, Media Type: Plain Paper, Print Quality: Standard, Layout: Borderless, Color Mode: Use ICC Profile, Printer Profile: Canon Pro 100 3 Photo Paper Plus Semi-gloss, Rendering Intent: Relative Colormetric, Color Balance: All "0's". When I made a print, believe it or not, the print came close to matching the picture on my monitor. Using glossy to semi-gloss paper it came close to matching my monitor. My conclusion, I'm staying with these settings. BTW, I'm using Windows 10.
would have been a much more valuavle resource if you tested some prints with a professional printing service.
Fstoppers I don't understand when you say "brick your computer"...when you last calibrated. I calibrated my first monitor during the windows XP days and it created a profile that was placed in window startup. And yes, it affected other programs such as my games I played back then but if you remove that startup file, your monitor would return to pre-calibrated status, and that's what I did, I manually fired it up when I was editing. Fast forwarding, they prices is still there same, a profile is created and is included when first starting up windows. Remove it and manually start it.
(Not an insult) but, are you intentionally going for the John Cena look...?
I was thinking more of a Kelly Slater look plus the quicksilver hat.. except he's surfing the web not waves...ppshh haha
Can this spyder or other PC monitor tools be used to calibrate a TV? theoretically, it should help a bit right? or is this a no-no? can't find any videos about using calibration tools on PC to TV or vice versa.
wow, 279,00 euro that's 150,00 euro more then what my monitor costs, haha
I have a strong suspicion that the calibrated/uncalibrated comparison images actually change more than they ought to in the SpiderX screen that appears after calibration. Why? Because if you calibrate the monitor in another program, and then redo it in SpiderX, and then check that the overall calibration files almost match (and visually look the same in other programs), the before/after images are still quite different. It warms them up and boosts the contrast slightly.
I'm not a professional though, it's just a hunch.