Nice video. I use instead of WD-40, I use silicone grease. It doesn't get washed off by solvents as easy, or come off under hot conditions/environment.
Hi, thank you for this great video. I have just followed your instructions which have just saved me $250 bucks! This is a super instructional video with no margin for error.
Great video. I am glad to read that a new map sensor will also likely correct the hard shifting. I've been dealing with that issue for quite a while. Would you also recommend reaching into the plastic hole behind the throttle body and wiping out any extra oil puddling at the bottom? Isn't that where the oil is coming from to coat the map sensor?
Finished installing exactly as you said. Went smoothly and the car runs great. The hard shifting issue appears to be completely gone as I drove about 5-6 miles for a test drive under various conditions. Thanks for a great tutorial.
Thank you so much for this video. It was so easy to follow. After going through all your steps. I also replaced diaphragm and it ran rough at idle like it wanted to cut off. Went back to comments and tried what you suggested. Pressed gas pedal to open up throttle while off and on. One thing that seemed to work for me was clearing the codes on my diagnostic code Reader. As soon as I did, I heard the idle go right back to where it should be and no more problems.
Great job, happy to help. Note that I don't recommend the China PCV replacement diaphragms, they can be problematic and cause fuel trim faults and leak vacuum. Best to replace the entire Oem Valve cover. But if its working then thats good. Just keep a eye on it.
Very helpful, great pace, just the necessary information, good quality camera work, great narration! The perfect companion to do the job myself. Than you, keep it up!
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost the login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me
Wow Mr. Matt you are truly genius, I had identical faults in my passat 2.5 2014 and fixed them same way you explained, I thought that I had problems with my 09g transmission but you save me lot of money to re assemble transmission, thanks indeed, my mechanic also replaced the pcv diaghram cover, he told me that's the culprit of leaking oil to map, I believe he's right as well, what do you think, my car is running like new condition for a month. Thanks again
Keep a eye on that replacement pcv diaphragm they can be cheap/ Chinese made and actually might leak internally and cause a lean fuel trim fault or a high idle from the vacuum leak. Best is to replace the new valve cover as one whole Oem new piece with the new Oem built in valve. Don’t worry about the oil in the intake it’s totally normal and doesn’t indicate a bad pcv/ oil separator.
If the P0106 code keeps coming back and there is oil in the MAP sensor, more than likely, the PCV valve diaphragm is broken or leaking. You can replace the whole PCV valve cover (about $50-100 on ebay) or you can just replace the diaphragm (about $10-30 on ebay or amazon or autozone). Replacing the diaphragm is easier to do (you just need a paint can opener and a flat screwdriver), but a lot of people recommend just replacing the entire pcv valve cover. Of course, you need to clean the MAP sensor again...if you have a regular OBD2, most of them can also reset the throttle body. I have an OBD2 that is specific to a VW or AUDI, but way cheaper than the scanner he showed here, but of course, it is more limited than his.
@@gabrielgallardo4065 I am sorry, man, but I am not a pro mechanic, just a DIYer that loves to fix cars. But based on what the pcv valve does or connected to, I dont think it affects the tranny. Closest sign of bad pcv that I can think of that might affect the tranny is since there is an intake air leak, there will be a rough idle and the RPM goes high...I dont know if that will cause the gear to shift too fast. But I would rather go by you having a bad tranny...ever changed your transmission fluid and/or filter?
Hello, thank you for this video. It was clear and helpful. I followed all your steps except for running the VCDS Throttle Body adaptation (haven't bought VCDS yet). Car now has a new MAP sensor, very clean throttle body, and new PCV Diaphragm. However, now the car idles rough. I double checked all connections and bolts. All are secure. My question: Is the car running rough because I have not adapted the throttle body? Is there a way to smooth out the idle without the adaptation software?
Hi Coleman, glad the video was helpful. Try to floor the gas pedal a few times to wide open throttle with the engine off. And try the same while driving. This should learn the new throttle end stops. Also I’ve seen the aftermarket pcv diaphragms leak and cause vacuum leaks and rough idle. Best is to replace the entire valve cover with a Oem Vw part. You can disconnect the vacuum hose to the valve cover and plug it with your thumb and start the car. If it now idles fine you have a bad leaking pcv. Good luck
Thank you for the video. About two years ago my car started shifting hard. I took my car to a transmission shop and they told me the engine had some codes, and no transmission codes. I took my car to a mechanic and he said he needed to clean the throttle body and replace the MAP sensor. After the repairs, the car worked fine for about a year and a half. I got the same symptoms a few days ago and I decided to do the repair myself. I watched this video to see what needs to be removed. I cleaned the throttle body which by the way it was super dirty. I also replaced the MAP sensor which was covered with oil. I also replaced the PCV valve cover. So far, the car seems to be working fine again. I will try to report how it works in the long run. I still have a check engine light, but it should go away in a day or two. If the light does not go away, then I will go to Autozone or Advance to get a free scan.
Thanks very much for taking the time to do this. I was able to replace my golf's Map sensor and clean the throttle body with zero delay due to you providing the step by step and torx bit sizes. I was going to simply clean my MAP sensor but figured at 131,000 miles, it made sense to simply replace it with a new Bosch unit. Throttle seems more responsive now as well.
SAVED by this video AND the comment section!! Have a 2012 VW Jetta se, replaced the MAP sensor as detailed in this video and car was running worse than before, idle was all jacked up going from 700 rpm to 1500 or so then dropping back down, new error code P0507 detected, countless misfires. Didn’t know what to do and after takin apart and putting together again multiple times was about to take to a mechanic in defeat, but came back to this videos comment section, saw similar issues, then watched the video again… and realized I had to clear the DTC codes before running the throttle relearn. DO’H!!!! Needless to say she’s alive and running again! Thank you very much for making this video and being very clear on all the steps involved…. I’ll try to pay better attention next time! 😅
awesome, in Tijuana, MX. I will get my toolbox out, buy the MAP sensor and follow your directives. I've spent so much time and money... First a Tecate beer can, too hot! Need vitamins.
Thank you Matt for thr video!! I no longer live out in orange county. My check engine light came on for this code for the map senor. Going to try to change it myself!
Great video I ended up changing my map sensor last night now what is the hardness that connects the oil to the throttle body? I could change my map sensor in the Pro sense won't get into it but Martinez. Connects the oil to the throttle body if I'm not mistaken where it's not cuz it was cold outside so we took the part that was in the throttle body out and we duct taped it and then put it back in and it appears to have worked. I called and windy and it was the first time getting to the map sensor and we ran into that challenge initially. The map sensor was successfully changed
Hi Ralph, I’m working on making more Vw repair videos for you guys! I’m just not good with video or editing so I need my videographer here which isn’t that often and I’m a very busy mechanic shop owner!
I changed a Diaphragm 2 times and replaced the map sensor also, but hard shifting still occurs. I don't know what to do. There's oil in the intake manifold and i think that's the reason but how can i prevent oil leaking into the intake manifold? Maybe it's dirty air filter? 🤷🏻♂️
Hi Tazo, if you have no faults and have replaced the Map sensor as well, the hard shifting is going to be caused by a faulty valve body. These Jettas commonly have sticking pressure solenoids in the valve body that will cause excessive main line pressure when hot which will cause the hard shifting between gears, 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts and 3-2 and 2-1 hard downshifts coming to a stop. Replace the valve body in the trans with a good new valve body and it will fix your shifting problem. Good luck
Thanks for the tutorial - I changed out my MAP sensor and diaphragm before seeing it, and did it the way you demonstrated. However, I now have a whistle at about 1000 rpms - on acceleration and deceleration. I've triple-checked everything and cannot find where it's coming from! I think it has to be the air intake hose going to the t-body, but I'm pulling my hair out! Any advice is appreciated.
The replacement diaphragms are hot Chinese garbage and they leak. You will want to replace the entire valve cover with a Oem Vw valve cover. That will fix your problem.
BTW, in my case the MAP sensor was so bad that my automatic transmission was behaving erratically. I have just tried out my car and the transmission issues went away!
Great job! It’s very rewarding fixing your own car. And yes I forgot to mention that a bad Map Sensor with cause messed up transmission shifting because it’s the main load signal sensor from the ECM to the TCM to determine shift points!! -Matt
Hi Jose, some small amount of oil in the intake manifold is very normal and not cause for concern. It comes from the pcv valve which is built into the valve cover as a natural function of the engine. The PCV diaphragms do go bad around 80k-120k and tear and you would get a check engine light, low idle, air leak fuel trim too lean fault. I always recommend a whole new oem valve cover with the built in PCV. The aftermarket diaphragm seal kits are known to leak, repalcing the whole cover is nice as it fixes a potential oil leak from the valve cover gasket.
You are the best, no bells and whistles. Straight to the point with excellent information. By the way do you have a video on changing the evap purge valve. That hose has an ear clamp. Do you suggest replacing it with same clamp, thanks. Almost forgot. Does this video fix you did on the MAP work the same on a 13 2.5l jetta? The symptom of transmission slip was right on by the way. Great stuff
@@matttorian, do you think I should even try to put a purge valve purchased on Amazon? The MAP sensor I got from Napa. Its a Bosch OEM. Thanks for the reply
@@matttorian , forgot to mention When I put gas in my car the other day. I heard a sucking noise while inserting the gas pump. And the vehicles idle was fluctuating. Is that also symptom of bad MAP?
Is This a job that can be done without the scan tool to adapt the throttle body? I feel comfortable doing the job but I don't have the scan tool to clear codes and adapt.
Hi Matt great Video. I have a 2010 golf 2.5 . I had a code po118. Engine coolant sensor. Cooling fans were coming on at start up and staying on until shut off. I replaced the coolant sensor and have a code of po113. Intake air temp sensor.and fans still stay on I believe it's the same as map sensor. When I clear the code of when engine is running the fans shut down for about 5 to 10 seconds and resets code and fans come on. Any idea Matt. Thank you
you are loosing the signal for the coolant temp, that is why the ecm is keeping the fans on because it doesn’t know the temp. there is a good chance you have a broken wire. look the whole harness over very closely for terminal damage, broken wire, etc
@@matttorian thanks Matt. I will for sure look. But i am not getting the code for coolant sensor anymore. As i mentioned. Since i replaced the coolant sensor and cleared the code . now i get the code po113. And fans still stay on when running. When i clear the code po113 you can hear the fans shut off until computer resets the code within 5 to 10 secs and fans start up again. Thanks
@@RM-mc3jd so you had the coolant temp sensor fault which is now fixed and gone and now you have the intake air temp fault. Sounds like you created the fault. Did you remember to plug back in the intake air temp sensor connector? You will want to check the wiring and terminals and connector for the intake air temp sensor. On a 2010 I believe it’s tied in with the map sensor but I would have to check the diagram to be sure. Maybe there is a broken wire right on the harness where it makes a sharp bend. Inspect the wiring carefully
@@matttorian thanks alot for your help Matt your awesome. Yes the coolant sensor replaced and code cleared. The new code is Po 113. AIT sensor. I never unplugged it to change the coolant sensor. Im out here now over here in Canada. Lol. And wiring to coolant sensor look good . but found 2 broken wires to the AIT SENSOR . green and orange. Its a 4 pin plug under the throttle body.
Hi Matt, I'm great I found your video after 2 hours of search and yours is exactly what I needed to clean my wife's 2010 Golf 2.5 MAF air flow sensor and clear the throttle body, even though there is no check engine light or codes except TPS light. The car has 140K and runs fine, should I just clean the MAF sensor or should I replace it? I changed the valve cover 10 months ago when I found a little bid of oil in #2 cylinder/spark plug. Thanks so much and God Bless!
Will it be necessary to readjust the throttle body if I just take it out clean it and replace it as you did or was this process very much needed afterwards?
@@parallelmovie the scanner I am using is called vag-com from Rosstech.com. It is the holy grail of Vw Audi scanners. Your average obd2 scanner won’t be able to reset the throttle body but it can scan and clear the faults
Do I need to adapt my throttle body in order to complete this DYI ? Also I recently changed my valve cover since it was leaking. Replaced it with an oem valve cover. Now I’m looking to change out the map sensor. Also experience hard shifting once in a while as you mentioned.
If you clean the throttle body it’s a good idea to adapt it. It might run fine without it but if you don’t have vagcom and it idles poorly or gives a throttle adaptation code just give it full throttle with the engine off a couple times so it relearns the end stops. Good job doing the Oem valve cover that’s a good repair. And yes a new map sensor will fix the hard shifting also.
Yes you can sneak the sensor out but I prefer to remove the throttle body. It is quicker than trying to sneak the sensor out and it makes cleaning the throttle body much easier. Either way good luck
Thank you for the great video. The source of the oil in the intake manifold can be from a failing PCV valve, so you should replace that part as well for $20. Don't just treat the symptom.
No the aftermarket replacement pcv diaphragms are China junk and they will leak vacuum, whistle and cause a check engine light for lean fuel trim and idle too high. Best is to replace the entire valve cover with a new OEM Vw valve cover with built in PCV/ Oil Separator. Oil in the intake manifold is pretty normal to see on all these flat bottom 2.5 manifolds. It is not a indication of a bad pcv/oil separator.
@@flyguy437 It’s completely normal to get some oil in the intake manifold. It’s a normal part of this engine design, it does not indicate the oil separator is faulty. Just replace your Map sensor and you will be good.
Hello and thanks for the great video. My 2012 VW Jetta SEL has a check engine light. Autozone scan came back with a P2188 code. They recommend that the MAF be replaced but if correct, I don't believe this model has a MAF so, I assumed it was the MAP. I cannot removed the throttle body but before I went any further and made matters worse, I figured I should ask for some advice on how to remove the throttle body or if cleaning/replacing the MAP would help at all given the code that Autozone provided? Thanks.
2012 Jetta will not have a Maf sensor just the Map and the Map will not cause your lean code. Lean code is caused by a vacuum leak. You will need a new valve cover with built in pcv valve. You can pop off the engine cover and run the engine. If you hear and feel vacuum on the small pcv port on your finger tip the diagphram is torn and the valve cover needs replacement. It’s a very easy valve cover to replace.
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to do this so succinctly. My CEL came on and gave me the code that the MAP has failed. Car rides just great and I don’t notice any issues (manual transmission ) . Just ordered the part and will do it myself this weekend thanks to this video! Hope it fixes my issue!
My vw jetta 2.5 when the transmission go to 3rd gear the rpm go high end kicks a little but I don’t have any code. You guys think the problem cut be for the map sensor?
Sounds like your transmission is slipping in third gear if the rpm goes very high. You might have a code in the transmission control module but no codes in engine. You might need a new transmission or full rebuild.
Hey bud nice video! Very helpful had same codes pop up and symptoms with the hard shifting prior to light coming on. I replaced the map sensor but i am stuck on clearing the code p0106. Tried twice to erase code but doesnt want to erase, any idea how to erase the code?
two things I would try, get a better scanner and if that doesn’t work then try capacitance discharge. follow the instructions carefully, remove negative battery cable, touch negative cable to positive cable with a jumper wire for 10 seconds. this is like resetting the car control modules and a lot of times fixes weird elec problems. also it could be stored as a “permanent code” if you drove it too long before fixing it (thanks California EPA!) which will take two months of driving for it to clear on its own.
They dont have many videos on these cars it's annoying and my car is showing and red lamp light saying pressure engine off can you please explain what you think may be the problem
Hi Diana, sounds like you have a oil pressure light coming on. first thing to check would be your oil level. Engine off, pull the dipstick, wipe it clean and dip it again and check the level. Add oil until you get to at least the middle range but not past the max line. It can also be a bad oil pressure sensor, or leaking oil from a damaged oil pan. If the engine has high mileage (over 120,000+ miles) and the main bearings are worn out, that can cause a oil light as well and you would need engine replacement which is worst case. You can also do a oil change and add lucas oil stabilizer with 5w40 synthetic oil to slow down oil burning which helps. Good Luck -Matt
Hey buddy video is great but u fortunately someone was in the map sensor before me and I need to know what color wires go to what number pin. I have blue green red and black ???
I just saw this comment, I can look up the wire locations if you still need it. What is wrong with your wires and what year is your car. if you watch my video it should show the wire colors when I’m explaining how rarely you might need to replace the terminals.
I have a vw jetta 2010 code p0106 I replaced de MAP sensor and the whole valve cover but still oil is going thru the intake manifold and it create the code p0106 do you think the problem is the software I will appreciate your help thanks
Hi Robinson, I would take it to your local Vw dealer and ask them to check the software level of the ECM, it might need to be updated to the latest software version. There is a software update available for this fault code.
Either way works, your definitely not supposed to press the plate with the key on that would definitely cause throttle faults but with key off it’s no problem
Great video!! Thanks for the tips while fixing it. BTW, I recently got a P2096 saying the post catalytic converter sensor is too lean. It doesn't come with other codes with it. So what I possibly locate the problem position? So too lean means too much air and less fuel? Maybe to clean the MAP sensor too? Thanks!
If you don’t have any other fuel trim system too lean faults or vacuum leaks from the PCV diaphragm on the valve cover, the rear oxygen sensor most likely is faulty and needs replacement. I wouldn’t clean any sensors, you can try buts it’s best to replace them with brand new OEM Bosch sensors. Cleaning is usually a very temporary fix.
Hi Erick, it’s very normal operation of the engine. replace your map sensor once every 10 years and don’t worry about it. also don’t replace just the pcv a lot of the aftermarket valves will leak vacuum and cause more problems. A new Oem Vw valve cover is the proper way.
Did you clear the code? You have to clear the codes after sensor replacement. What year is your Car? I looked up both Map sensors and 635 and 634 dont come up at all for the Factory Vw part number or the Bosch part number.
No it sounds like you have a lean fault which is caused by a vacuum leak from the pcv/ valve cover / or if turbo engine the oil separator. For the small evap leak it’s most likely the evap purge valve which I have a video on for the 2.5 engine. If your turbo engine those valves don’t go bad and it’s most likely the gas cap. Replace with new OEM cap and clear the fault 👍🏼
So before watching this video, I ordered a new map sensor (made in china) not knowing. I went through all steps and put the new sensor in, cleaned the throttle, and out everything back on. Drove the car around the block a few times and it seemed great. Go home and park...then come back out for a drive 1-2 hours later and the car starts revving up on its own from 1 rpm - 2. Does this sound like the cheap sensor I used is crap???
@@stephaniehall6038 Hi Stephanie, look closely at the plug and there are numbers on the connector. There are two different color versions depending on where the car was made. Its either 1. Black 2. Grey 3. Yellow with Gray stripe 4. Brown with white stripe OR its 1. Black 2. Green 3. Black 4. Blue. Hope that helps. Consult a repair manual wiring diagram for further help or Google. Good luck. Only cut the wiring and replace the connector with new terminals as a very last resort if the code keeps coming back with new sensor and has latest software version.
Everytime i got a p0106 i always cleaned the TB and after a year the code comeback again it happens to me 3x..do you think i need to change my map sensor..or just stick to what doing.
@@matttorian completed in less than 30 minutes. Car is only showing a P2432 (SAI sensor) code now. Before replacing the MAP sensor, part # 0261230095 was already in place where the MAP sensor would go. Could you explain this?
@@bethany6070 yes replace the secondary air sensor, there is a technical service bulletin for this repair you can find online describing the updated pipe and sensor.
@@matttorian thanks I’ll check that. I’m running into the problem of the correct part for the SAI sensor in an 09 VW Jetta 2.5 L/5 Cyl. It seems as though the part for Bosch has two map sensors (0261230095 and 0261230234). Wish I had caught this beforehand. Trial and error working on it yourself, huh? But better than spending loads of money for sure
@@bethany6070 find the tech bulletin and it will describe the updated pipe, sensor and harness or you can find the old style sensor would be the cheapest repair. Looks like 0 261 230 167 should work if you still have the old style pipe and sensor
No that is a secondary air code incorrect flow code. You need to look at all of your secondary air pipes from the intake to the air pump in front of the engine and then especially check the pipe going back to the combi valve. One is probably disconnected or cracked and needs electrical taping or if not tape able simply replacement . Vag com is helpful to run the pump and listen for the air leaking as the pump pulses in output test mode
Need your advice Matt. I have 2012 Volkswagen Golf 2.5 L 44,689 miles currently. Transmission started to "hard-shift" from 2nd into 1st at low speeds, obviosly just read P0106 code plus recommendations to reinstall transmission module controller software to possibly eliminate the problem. Separate recommendation during the same Autozone simple computer read. How dangerous is it to drive the car for a few days with this problem and "check engine" light on? Does it have to be fixed immediately or I can have few days to order Map Sensor I need?
Bernarda Flores I wouldn’t worry, catch cans aren’t necessary, it would help but there would still be some oil getting by from the separator as vapor. Just clean as needed👍🏼
Hey Matt, great video! You mentioned this causing hard shifting. My jetta just started hard shifting down from 2nd to first after driving up past 4th gear. I was told to bring it to a transmission shop and he told me I had codes P3078, P0106 and P1314. He recommended a full transmission change but after watching your video it sounds like it could be a much more simple fix. What would you reccomend? I'm going to another mechanic for a 2nd opinion.
I would replace the Map sensor and clean the throttle body for your faults and then clear your fault codes and see if the trans is now fixed and shifting ok before you spend thousands rebuilding the trans. These trans are typically good for 200k miles but they do have hard shifts when hot and that is caused by the valve body inside the trans that needs replacing due to sticking solenoid valve causes hard up and down shifting when hot.
Hi Matt, great video. I changed the map sensor and the code is still coming up. When replacing I noticed one of the pins in the connector was missing. Could this be the problem? I also brought it to VW so I'm assuming the software is up to date, but they told me the throttle body is no good as well as the connector. Is this a possibility? Thanks
Make sure you used the right part number map sensor. The older jettas were 3 wire 05-07, newer jettas were 4 wire. Make sure your not missing pins. Dont assume anything with a dealer. Get a used OEM throttle body and replace it yourself. Dont pay the dealer prices for a new TB. Good Luck.
Too rich off idle. This is a fairly rare fault and without actually looking at it I can only give you my best guess. You might have fuel in your oil, I would change the oil and also clean the throttle body and adapt it: it wouldn’t hurt to do a tune up on the car, install new spark plugs. You also might need a new Map sensor, possibly new Maf sensor if you have one depending on your year and possibly a new front oxygen sensor that is reading too rich. Also make sure your PCV valve diaphragm on the valve cover isn’t torn and leaking vacuum. That typically causes a lean fault though. Good luck
Hi Kirk, I showed this step as we always do this at my shop but I think you will be fine without adapting the TB. just clean it well and make sure to clear your fault codes. -Matt
@@matttorian isn't the vag-com for older VW's? I have a 2013 Passat and thought I needed vcd and the Bluetooth adapter... $199 is close to what I paid for my code reader (with some vw features). In any case thanks for the video and taking time to be responsive! I've got parts coming Saturday and will be doing this for sure.
@@kirkramanauskas3232 vag-com, vcds and Ross tech are all the same. The software is free you just need a laptop and the cable. I know they had single vin cables for $199. Vagcom works for all obd2 vehicles from 1996-2022. It is a powerful tool that can scan any control module on the entire car just like the factory scanner. The only thing it can’t do it functions that require a factory password like keys, ecm and instrument cluster/ immobilizer replacement. But in your case you just need a simple obd2 scanner to clear your fault codes and you should be fine.
HI Jester, I would visit your local dealer and see about a possible software update for your ECM. Also what year is your car? There are 2 different versions of Map sensors on the 2.5L engine. Just make sure you installed the correct version. You have cleared the fault and it returns right? Lastly you might need a new connector and terminals if all else fails.
There are two different Map sensors, the early BPR 2.5L 2005-2007 uses a MAF and the Map sensor is different. This video is for the newer CBUA 2.5L 2008-2014 with NO MAF and uses Bosch # 0261230234.
i'm getting misfire cel codes and rough idle. i've already replaced the pcv, map sensor, coils, and plugs for my 2.5. i have rough idle at startup and when stopped at lights. car seems to be fine at highway speeds. after the engine comes to temp i hear a whistling sound which might be coming from the new pcv diaphragm. could i have a vacuum leak? how can i check and where is it most likely to come from? the rough idling etc and misfires started after i bumped into a curb at relatively low speed due to road conditions. thanks!
Hello Kumbackquatsta, You have a vacuum leak. Guaranteed. The replacement PCV from Dorman are china junk and they do not work, they leak brand new. You can disconnect the large vacuum pipe on the valve cover and plug it with your thumb and start the engine. It should idle normally. Now you have isolated the vacuum leak to the pcv system. Replace the entire valve cover with a good OEM Vw original valve cover. This will fix your problem. Good luck
@@matttorian thanks for the reply matt! i will check the pcv. is it better to replace the entire valve cover rather than just the pcv? mine is 2012 2.5 with the separate components. assuming a failed/whistling pcv, should i also assume that oil has gotten down to the map sensor too at this point and look into cleaning/replacing the map again? can high revving an engine cause a pcv to prematurely fail?
Replace the whole valve cover with the built in PCV. It’s whistling and leaking vacuum at idle. They are not cheap from Vw ($400) but you can probably find one online for a good deal. The map sensor will be fine. Let me know if you fix it
@@kumbackquatsta no don’t do that, fix it right. You need the Oem pcv, it’s a oil separator as well. Keep it stock. Don’t bolt more junk on your engine
Nice video. I use instead of WD-40, I use silicone grease. It doesn't get washed off by solvents as easy, or come off under hot conditions/environment.
good tip, wd40 is mechanics best friend. also love using silicone paste
Hi, thank you for this great video. I have just followed your instructions which have just saved me $250 bucks!
This is a super instructional video with no margin for error.
Excellent narration and camera work
Thank you!
Great video. I am glad to read that a new map sensor will also likely correct the hard shifting. I've been dealing with that issue for quite a while. Would you also recommend reaching into the plastic hole behind the throttle body and wiping out any extra oil puddling at the bottom? Isn't that where the oil is coming from to coat the map sensor?
Finished installing exactly as you said. Went smoothly and the car runs great. The hard shifting issue appears to be completely gone as I drove about 5-6 miles for a test drive under various conditions. Thanks for a great tutorial.
Good work!
Thank you so much for this video. It was so easy to follow. After going through all your steps. I also replaced diaphragm and it ran rough at idle like it wanted to cut off. Went back to comments and tried what you suggested. Pressed gas pedal to open up throttle while off and on. One thing that seemed to work for me was clearing the codes on my diagnostic code Reader. As soon as I did, I heard the idle go right back to where it should be and no more problems.
Great job, happy to help. Note that I don't recommend the China PCV replacement diaphragms, they can be problematic and cause fuel trim faults and leak vacuum. Best to replace the entire Oem Valve cover. But if its working then thats good. Just keep a eye on it.
Very helpful, great pace, just the necessary information, good quality camera work, great narration! The perfect companion to do the job myself. Than you, keep it up!
Glad it was helpful!
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost the login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me
@Daxton Jace Instablaster ;)
Great video! It made the job so much easier....Please keep making them, thank you!
Thanks, will do!
Hello from Ukraine. Have exactly same problem as you explain. Will do as per you great instruction in the video. Thanks
Great 👍🏼
Wow Mr. Matt you are truly genius, I had identical faults in my passat 2.5 2014 and fixed them same way you explained, I thought that I had problems with my 09g transmission but you save me lot of money to re assemble transmission, thanks indeed, my mechanic also replaced the pcv diaghram cover, he told me that's the culprit of leaking oil to map, I believe he's right as well, what do you think, my car is running like new condition for a month. Thanks again
Keep a eye on that replacement pcv diaphragm they can be cheap/ Chinese made and actually might leak internally and cause a lean fuel trim fault or a high idle from the vacuum leak. Best is to replace the new valve cover as one whole Oem new piece with the new Oem built in valve. Don’t worry about the oil in the intake it’s totally normal and doesn’t indicate a bad pcv/ oil separator.
@@matttorian I will bro. thanks indeed for your advice
Really well done video A+
Thank you very much!
If the P0106 code keeps coming back and there is oil in the MAP sensor, more than likely, the PCV valve diaphragm is broken or leaking. You can replace the whole PCV valve cover (about $50-100 on ebay) or you can just replace the diaphragm (about $10-30 on ebay or amazon or autozone). Replacing the diaphragm is easier to do (you just need a paint can opener and a flat screwdriver), but a lot of people recommend just replacing the entire pcv valve cover. Of course, you need to clean the MAP sensor again...if you have a regular OBD2, most of them can also reset the throttle body. I have an OBD2 that is specific to a VW or AUDI, but way cheaper than the scanner he showed here, but of course, it is more limited than his.
Thanks for all your help
You think the pcv valve can make the transmission kick only on 3rd gear I don’t have any codes
@@gabrielgallardo4065 I am sorry, man, but I am not a pro mechanic, just a DIYer that loves to fix cars. But based on what the pcv valve does or connected to, I dont think it affects the tranny. Closest sign of bad pcv that I can think of that might affect the tranny is since there is an intake air leak, there will be a rough idle and the RPM goes high...I dont know if that will cause the gear to shift too fast. But I would rather go by you having a bad tranny...ever changed your transmission fluid and/or filter?
Kook
9o
Hi Matt this is Santiago from México city, I did the steps you suggest 😀 my car is as new, great, thanks
Bien Trabajar y Manejar!!
Hello, thank you for this video. It was clear and helpful. I followed all your steps except for running the VCDS Throttle Body adaptation (haven't bought VCDS yet). Car now has a new MAP sensor, very clean throttle body, and new PCV Diaphragm. However, now the car idles rough. I double checked all connections and bolts. All are secure. My question: Is the car running rough because I have not adapted the throttle body? Is there a way to smooth out the idle without the adaptation software?
Hi Coleman, glad the video was helpful. Try to floor the gas pedal a few times to wide open throttle with the engine off. And try the same while driving. This should learn the new throttle end stops. Also I’ve seen the aftermarket pcv diaphragms leak and cause vacuum leaks and rough idle. Best is to replace the entire valve cover with a Oem Vw part. You can disconnect the vacuum hose to the valve cover and plug it with your thumb and start the car. If it now idles fine you have a bad leaking pcv. Good luck
@@matttorian If I disconnect the throttle body do I have to re learn it or it is just plug and play??
Kev Ster just plug it back in, you should be fine
Thank you for the video. About two years ago my car started shifting hard. I took my car to a transmission shop and they told me the engine had some codes, and no transmission codes. I took my car to a mechanic and he said he needed to clean the throttle body and replace the MAP sensor. After the repairs, the car worked fine for about a year and a half. I got the same symptoms a few days ago and I decided to do the repair myself. I watched this video to see what needs to be removed. I cleaned the throttle body which by the way it was super dirty. I also replaced the MAP sensor which was covered with oil. I also replaced the PCV valve cover. So far, the car seems to be working fine again. I will try to report how it works in the long run. I still have a check engine light, but it should go away in a day or two. If the light does not go away, then I will go to Autozone or Advance to get a free scan.
well done!
Thanks again! I cleaned my throttle body and replaced my MAP sensor, and now my Jetta passes emissions! Got it registered, finally!
Awesome, that is great news, Congrats!
Thanks very much for taking the time to do this. I was able to replace my golf's Map sensor and clean the throttle body with zero delay due to you providing the step by step and torx bit sizes.
I was going to simply clean my MAP sensor but figured at 131,000 miles, it made sense to simply replace it with a new Bosch unit.
Throttle seems more responsive now as well.
Glad it helped! Good job!
Great video, very helpful info. Thanks
Great watch, cadence, and camera work. Left me more educated to discuss a fix with my local VW shop.
Glad it was helpful! 😊
Thank you so much for this video Matt! You have been a big help. Looking forward to replacing my MAP tomorrow.
SAVED by this video AND the comment section!! Have a 2012 VW Jetta se, replaced the MAP sensor as detailed in this video and car was running worse than before, idle was all jacked up going from 700 rpm to 1500 or so then dropping back down, new error code P0507 detected, countless misfires. Didn’t know what to do and after takin apart and putting together again multiple times was about to take to a mechanic in defeat, but came back to this videos comment section, saw similar issues, then watched the video again… and realized I had to clear the DTC codes before running the throttle relearn. DO’H!!!!
Needless to say she’s alive and running again! Thank you very much for making this video and being very clear on all the steps involved…. I’ll try to pay better attention next time! 😅
Congrats on fixing it yourself!!!
Great video. My engine was rough idling afterwards, turns out I forgot to plug in the MAP sensor connector.
Glad it helped
awesome, in Tijuana, MX. I will get my toolbox out, buy the MAP sensor and follow your directives. I've spent so much time and money... First a Tecate beer can, too hot! Need vitamins.
jajaja gracias Amigo, Buena suerte
Thank you Matt for thr video!! I no longer live out in orange county. My check engine light came on for this code for the map senor. Going to try to change it myself!
Awesome!
Great video I ended up changing my map sensor last night now what is the hardness that connects the oil to the throttle body? I could change my map sensor in the Pro sense won't get into it but Martinez. Connects the oil to the throttle body if I'm not mistaken where it's not cuz it was cold outside so we took the part that was in the throttle body out and we duct taped it and then put it back in and it appears to have worked. I called and windy and it was the first time getting to the map sensor and we ran into that challenge initially. The map sensor was successfully changed
nice video. Too bad you dont keep making this kind of videos (various fixes on WV cars), would be interesting to see it. Thanks
Hi Ralph, I’m working on making more Vw repair videos for you guys! I’m just not good with video or editing so I need my videographer here which isn’t that often and I’m a very busy mechanic shop owner!
Thank you for this video. The video is very informative and good quality. Really help guide me diy the fix on my car.
Nice work! You're welcome!
I changed a Diaphragm 2 times and replaced the map sensor also, but hard shifting still occurs. I don't know what to do. There's oil in the intake manifold and i think that's the reason but how can i prevent oil leaking into the intake manifold? Maybe it's dirty air filter? 🤷🏻♂️
Hi Tazo, if you have no faults and have replaced the Map sensor as well, the hard shifting is going to be caused by a faulty valve body. These Jettas commonly have sticking pressure solenoids in the valve body that will cause excessive main line pressure when hot which will cause the hard shifting between gears, 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts and 3-2 and 2-1 hard downshifts coming to a stop. Replace the valve body in the trans with a good new valve body and it will fix your shifting problem. Good luck
Thanks for the tutorial - I changed out my MAP sensor and diaphragm before seeing it, and did it the way you demonstrated. However, I now have a whistle at about 1000 rpms - on acceleration and deceleration. I've triple-checked everything and cannot find where it's coming from! I think it has to be the air intake hose going to the t-body, but I'm pulling my hair out! Any advice is appreciated.
The replacement diaphragms are hot Chinese garbage and they leak. You will want to replace the entire valve cover with a Oem Vw valve cover. That will fix your problem.
BTW, in my case the MAP sensor was so bad that my automatic transmission was behaving erratically. I have just tried out my car and the transmission issues went away!
Great job! It’s very rewarding fixing your own car. And yes I forgot to mention that a bad Map Sensor with cause messed up transmission shifting because it’s the main load signal sensor from the ECM to the TCM to determine shift points!! -Matt
Hi , thanks for you video, in fact the issue the MAP sensor, here the oil come from where? Do you recommend Cover valve replacement ?
Hi Jose, some small amount of oil in the intake manifold is very normal and not cause for concern. It comes from the pcv valve which is built into the valve cover as a natural function of the engine. The PCV diaphragms do go bad around 80k-120k and tear and you would get a check engine light, low idle, air leak fuel trim too lean fault. I always recommend a whole new oem valve cover with the built in PCV. The aftermarket diaphragm seal kits are known to leak, repalcing the whole cover is nice as it fixes a potential oil leak from the valve cover gasket.
You are the best, no bells and whistles. Straight to the point with excellent information. By the way do you have a video on changing the evap purge valve. That hose has an ear clamp. Do you suggest replacing it with same clamp, thanks. Almost forgot. Does this video fix you did on the MAP work the same on a 13 2.5l jetta? The symptom of transmission slip was right on by the way. Great stuff
yes check my other videos, I have a purge valve video and shows how to loosen and reuse the crimp clamp. yes this will work for 2013 Jetta 2.5
@@matttorian, do you think I should even try to put a purge valve purchased on Amazon? The MAP sensor I got from Napa. Its a Bosch OEM. Thanks for the reply
@@matttorian , forgot to mention
When I put gas in my car the other day. I heard a sucking noise while inserting the gas pump. And the vehicles idle was fluctuating. Is that also symptom of bad MAP?
Is This a job that can be done without the scan tool to adapt the throttle body? I feel comfortable doing the job but I don't have the scan tool to clear codes and adapt.
You will need at a minimum a OBD2 reader to clear the faults. Throttle body adaptation after is optional and will adapt while you drive it. Good luck.
Can this code be found in Škoda cars with the same map sensor or what?
Not sure, we dont have Skoda cars here in the US. But I believe it should be the same engine.
I have a throttle body cleaner that looks like a brake clean can i use that instead? Thx
yes brake cleaner is what I use, works great.
Excellent video! In my case, after changing the sensor, the screw from the sensor, remains just a little bit loose. Is that gonna be a problem?
It’s plastic threads, just tighten it all the way you will be fine. It has a slight spring back to it, that’s normal.
@@matttorian Sounds good, thanks!
Hi Matt great Video. I have a 2010 golf 2.5 . I had a code po118. Engine coolant sensor. Cooling fans were coming on at start up and staying on until shut off. I replaced the coolant sensor and have a code of po113. Intake air temp sensor.and fans still stay on I believe it's the same as map sensor. When I clear the code of when engine is running the fans shut down for about 5 to 10 seconds and resets code and fans come on. Any idea Matt. Thank you
you are loosing the signal for the coolant temp, that is why the ecm is keeping the fans on because it doesn’t know the temp. there is a good chance you have a broken wire. look the whole harness over very closely for terminal damage, broken wire, etc
@@matttorian thanks Matt. I will for sure look. But i am not getting the code for coolant sensor anymore. As i mentioned. Since i replaced the coolant sensor and cleared the code . now i get the code po113. And fans still stay on when running. When i clear the code po113 you can hear the fans shut off until computer resets the code within 5 to 10 secs and fans start up again. Thanks
@@RM-mc3jd so you had the coolant temp sensor fault which is now fixed and gone and now you have the intake air temp fault. Sounds like you created the fault. Did you remember to plug back in the intake air temp sensor connector? You will want to check the wiring and terminals and connector for the intake air temp sensor. On a 2010 I believe it’s tied in with the map sensor but I would have to check the diagram to be sure. Maybe there is a broken wire right on the harness where it makes a sharp bend. Inspect the wiring carefully
@@matttorian thanks alot for your help Matt your awesome. Yes the coolant sensor replaced and code cleared. The new code is Po 113. AIT sensor. I never unplugged it to change the coolant sensor. Im out here now over here in Canada. Lol. And wiring to coolant sensor look good . but found 2 broken wires to the AIT SENSOR . green and orange. Its a 4 pin plug under the throttle body.
Hi Matt, I'm great I found your video after 2 hours of search and yours is exactly what I needed to clean my wife's 2010 Golf 2.5 MAF air flow sensor and clear the throttle body, even though there is no check engine light or codes except TPS light. The car has 140K and runs fine, should I just clean the MAF sensor or should I replace it? I changed the valve cover 10 months ago when I found a little bid of oil in #2 cylinder/spark plug. Thanks so much and God Bless!
Awesome! Thanks!!
No problem!
Matt, great job explaining how to do this.
Glad it was helpful!
Will it be necessary to readjust the throttle body if I just take it out clean it and replace it as you did or was this process very much needed afterwards?
You will prob be ok and it should adapt itself but I always perform the basic settings with the scanner.
@@matttorian OBD scanner or vcds?
Very well made video. Outstanding. Thank you!👏👏
Your welcome 🤗
New to VW. Is it 30 ft-lbs or 30 in-lbs torque when removing throttle body?
Hand tight only, no need to torque them. If you insist the correct torque is 6.5 nm
@@matttorian thanks! What was the name of the scanner you used and will any scanner work to reset it?
@@parallelmovie the scanner I am using is called vag-com from Rosstech.com. It is the holy grail of Vw Audi scanners. Your average obd2 scanner won’t be able to reset the throttle body but it can scan and clear the faults
Do I need to adapt my throttle body in order to complete this DYI ? Also I recently changed my valve cover since it was leaking. Replaced it with an oem valve cover. Now I’m looking to change out the map sensor. Also experience hard shifting once in a while as you mentioned.
If you clean the throttle body it’s a good idea to adapt it. It might run fine without it but if you don’t have vagcom and it idles poorly or gives a throttle adaptation code just give it full throttle with the engine off a couple times so it relearns the end stops. Good job doing the Oem valve cover that’s a good repair. And yes a new map sensor will fix the hard shifting also.
@@matttorian great video! when you say full throttle with engine off, do you mean with the key turned to accessory on?
kumbackquatsta yes exactly, key on engine off and give it full throttle
Any helpful comments or suggestions from anyone would be appreciated. Thank you for a great video Matt.
Merci cool
Prego!
Awsome
Thanks for this awesome video!
Your welcome!
Respect brother
Happy to help
Can the map sensor b replaced with out removal of the throttle body with an extension and swivel?
Yes you can sneak the sensor out but I prefer to remove the throttle body. It is quicker than trying to sneak the sensor out and it makes cleaning the throttle body much easier. Either way good luck
Matt Torian got it done thanks for the tips
Very Helpful!
Thank you
Your welcome!
Part number
Excellent video 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you for the great video. The source of the oil in the intake manifold can be from a failing PCV valve, so you should replace that part as well for $20. Don't just treat the symptom.
No the aftermarket replacement pcv diaphragms are China junk and they will leak vacuum, whistle and cause a check engine light for lean fuel trim and idle too high. Best is to replace the entire valve cover with a new OEM Vw valve cover with built in PCV/ Oil Separator. Oil in the intake manifold is pretty normal to see on all these flat bottom 2.5 manifolds. It is not a indication of a bad pcv/oil separator.
@@matttorian hi Matt, if oil is fouling the map sensor then should the whole valve cover have been replaced as well?
@@flyguy437 It’s completely normal to get some oil in the intake manifold. It’s a normal part of this engine design, it does not indicate the oil separator is faulty. Just replace your Map sensor and you will be good.
@@matttorian I agree with you..replacing just the pcv valve is a temporary fix
I cringed when you tightened the throttle body to that plastic manifold.
Hello and thanks for the great video. My 2012 VW Jetta SEL has a check engine light. Autozone scan came back with a P2188 code. They recommend that the MAF be replaced but if correct, I don't believe this model has a MAF so, I assumed it was the MAP. I cannot removed the throttle body but before I went any further and made matters worse, I figured I should ask for some advice on how to remove the throttle body or if cleaning/replacing the MAP would help at all given the code that Autozone provided? Thanks.
2012 Jetta will not have a Maf sensor just the Map and the Map will not cause your lean code. Lean code is caused by a vacuum leak. You will need a new valve cover with built in pcv valve. You can pop off the engine cover and run the engine. If you hear and feel vacuum on the small pcv port on your finger tip the diagphram is torn and the valve cover needs replacement. It’s a very easy valve cover to replace.
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to do this so succinctly. My CEL came on and gave me the code that the MAP has failed. Car rides just great and I don’t notice any issues (manual transmission ) . Just ordered the part and will do it myself this weekend thanks to this video! Hope it fixes my issue!
You're welcome!
My vw jetta 2.5 when the transmission go to 3rd gear the rpm go high end kicks a little but I don’t have any code. You guys think the problem cut be for the map sensor?
Sounds like your transmission is slipping in third gear if the rpm goes very high. You might have a code in the transmission control module but no codes in engine. You might need a new transmission or full rebuild.
Hey bud nice video! Very helpful had same codes pop up and symptoms with the hard shifting prior to light coming on. I replaced the map sensor but i am stuck on clearing the code p0106. Tried twice to erase code but doesnt want to erase, any idea how to erase the code?
two things I would try, get a better scanner and if that doesn’t work then try capacitance discharge. follow the instructions carefully, remove negative battery cable, touch negative cable to positive cable with a jumper wire for 10 seconds. this is like resetting the car control modules and a lot of times fixes weird elec problems. also it could be stored as a “permanent code” if you drove it too long before fixing it (thanks California EPA!) which will take two months of driving for it to clear on its own.
They dont have many videos on these cars it's annoying and my car is showing and red lamp light saying pressure engine off can you please explain what you think may be the problem
Hi Diana, sounds like you have a oil pressure light coming on. first thing to check would be your oil level. Engine off, pull the dipstick, wipe it clean and dip it again and check the level. Add oil until you get to at least the middle range but not past the max line. It can also be a bad oil pressure sensor, or leaking oil from a damaged oil pan. If the engine has high mileage (over 120,000+ miles) and the main bearings are worn out, that can cause a oil light as well and you would need engine replacement which is worst case. You can also do a oil change and add lucas oil stabilizer with 5w40 synthetic oil to slow down oil burning which helps. Good Luck -Matt
Hey buddy video is great but u fortunately someone was in the map sensor before me and I need to know what color wires go to what number pin. I have blue green red and black ???
I just saw this comment, I can look up the wire locations if you still need it. What is wrong with your wires and what year is your car. if you watch my video it should show the wire colors when I’m explaining how rarely you might need to replace the terminals.
Good job.
thank you
Very good job young man...
Thank you Woody
Thanks. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
I have a vw jetta 2010 code p0106 I replaced de MAP sensor and the whole valve cover but still oil is going thru the intake manifold and it create the code p0106 do you think the problem is the software I will appreciate your help thanks
Hi Robinson, I would take it to your local Vw dealer and ask them to check the software level of the ECM, it might need to be updated to the latest software version. There is a software update available for this fault code.
your not supposed to move the plate in the throttle body I heard, supposed to have someone push the gas pedal down while you clean it...is that true?
Either way works, your definitely not supposed to press the plate with the key on that would definitely cause throttle faults but with key off it’s no problem
can a dirty/faulty map sensor cause transmission issues (wrench dash warning)?
The wrench light is a service due/ oil change due light that needs resetting. A Bad map sensor can cause weird shifting though.
@@matttorian thanks. but this wrench icon shows up where the gear selection normally does on the dash, is this the same one for service interval due?
kumbackquatsta so you probably have a fault in your transmission and will need a scanner than can scan the trans.
Great video!! Thanks for the tips while fixing it. BTW, I recently got a P2096 saying the post catalytic converter sensor is too lean. It doesn't come with other codes with it. So what I possibly locate the problem position? So too lean means too much air and less fuel? Maybe to clean the MAP sensor too? Thanks!
If you don’t have any other fuel trim system too lean faults or vacuum leaks from the PCV diaphragm on the valve cover, the rear oxygen sensor most likely is faulty and needs replacement. I wouldn’t clean any sensors, you can try buts it’s best to replace them with brand new OEM Bosch sensors. Cleaning is usually a very temporary fix.
Is there a way that oil does not enter the map sensor? I already put the pcv valve back on and it continues to stain with oil.
Hi Erick, it’s very normal operation of the engine. replace your map sensor once every 10 years and don’t worry about it. also don’t replace just the pcv a lot of the aftermarket valves will leak vacuum and cause more problems. A new Oem Vw valve cover is the proper way.
How much cost in qatar senser vw jetta 2012 modal
CEL still on. Factory sensors ends in 635 and I used 634. Still Bosch. This is the only part number they had at AZ
Did you clear the code? You have to clear the codes after sensor replacement. What year is your Car? I looked up both Map sensors and 635 and 634 dont come up at all for the Factory Vw part number or the Bosch part number.
I have a 2012 VW Beetle with a P2188 code and a P0456 code as well. Would this also be the MAP sensor?
No it sounds like you have a lean fault which is caused by a vacuum leak from the pcv/ valve cover / or if turbo engine the oil separator. For the small evap leak it’s most likely the evap purge valve which I have a video on for the 2.5 engine. If your turbo engine those valves don’t go bad and it’s most likely the gas cap. Replace with new OEM cap and clear the fault 👍🏼
So before watching this video, I ordered a new map sensor (made in china) not knowing. I went through all steps and put the new sensor in, cleaned the throttle, and out everything back on. Drove the car around the block a few times and it seemed great. Go home and park...then come back out for a drive 1-2 hours later and the car starts revving up on its own from 1 rpm - 2. Does this sound like the cheap sensor I used is crap???
Hi John, I think you answered your own question lol never use China sensors
@@matttorian ok. I'm waiting for parts to cool down and I'll just clean the old Bosch sensor off and put it back in. Hopefully this helps. Thanks
I just want to replace my map sensor, is the software stuff a requirement or can I just swap the piece?
Hi Chris, you can replace the map sensor and clean the throttle body without vagcom, just clear the fault codes with your scanner when your done.
I know this might be a stupid questing but the connector piece, what order does the wiring go in? Like 1 2 3 4, what colors connect to what number?
I was trying to see in the video but it's hard to tell.
@@stephaniehall6038 Hi Stephanie, look closely at the plug and there are numbers on the connector. There are two different color versions depending on where the car was made. Its either 1. Black 2. Grey 3. Yellow with Gray stripe 4. Brown with white stripe OR its 1. Black 2. Green 3. Black 4. Blue. Hope that helps. Consult a repair manual wiring diagram for further help or Google. Good luck. Only cut the wiring and replace the connector with new terminals as a very last resort if the code keeps coming back with new sensor and has latest software version.
Do hoses have to be replaced also?
Everytime i got a p0106 i always cleaned the TB and after a year the code comeback again it happens to me 3x..do you think i need to change my map sensor..or just stick to what doing.
I would replace the sensor.
Thanks matt
Super helpful! You made this very easy for me to understand and complete myself.
Excellent!!
@@matttorian completed in less than 30 minutes. Car is only showing a P2432 (SAI sensor) code now. Before replacing the MAP sensor, part # 0261230095 was already in place where the MAP sensor would go. Could you explain this?
@@bethany6070 yes replace the secondary air sensor, there is a technical service bulletin for this repair you can find online describing the updated pipe and sensor.
@@matttorian thanks I’ll check that. I’m running into the problem of the correct part for the SAI sensor in an 09 VW Jetta 2.5 L/5 Cyl. It seems as though the part for Bosch has two map sensors (0261230095 and 0261230234). Wish I had caught this beforehand. Trial and error working on it yourself, huh? But better than spending loads of money for sure
@@bethany6070 find the tech bulletin and it will describe the updated pipe, sensor and harness or you can find the old style sensor would be the cheapest repair. Looks like 0 261 230 167 should work if you still have the old style pipe and sensor
Hi I have a 2013 Passat 2.5l with a p0491 code insufficient flow in bay 1. Do you think this could be related.
No that is a secondary air code incorrect flow code. You need to look at all of your secondary air pipes from the intake to the air pump in front of the engine and then especially check the pipe going back to the combi valve. One is probably disconnected or cracked and needs electrical taping or if not tape able simply replacement . Vag com is helpful to run the pump and listen for the air leaking as the pump pulses in output test mode
@@matttorian Thank you!! You were right
Need your advice Matt. I have 2012 Volkswagen Golf 2.5 L 44,689 miles currently. Transmission started to "hard-shift" from 2nd into 1st at low speeds, obviosly just read P0106 code plus recommendations to reinstall transmission module controller software to possibly eliminate the problem. Separate recommendation during the same Autozone simple computer read.
How dangerous is it to drive the car for a few days with this problem and "check engine" light on? Does it have to be fixed immediately or I can have few days to order Map Sensor I need?
You should be fine driving for a few days while you wait for the part
Hi I have the same problem, did you fixed your transmission cranck between 2 to 1 shift?
Thanks
@@joseruiz2359 Yes, it got fixed.
The last part with the computer is that something that is necessary? Im not sure how you did that part and what I would need to do that at home?
You should be fine without adapting the TB using Vag-Com. just clean it well and clear your faults
if you want to get this program it’s available from Ross-tech.com for $199. it’s a priceless tool for Vw/ Audi repair work.
Map sensor location is pretty bad makes want to install a catch can to eliminate some of the oily residue going to throttle body.
Bernarda Flores I wouldn’t worry, catch cans aren’t necessary, it would help but there would still be some oil getting by from the separator as vapor. Just clean as needed👍🏼
Hey Matt, great video! You mentioned this causing hard shifting. My jetta just started hard shifting down from 2nd to first after driving up past 4th gear. I was told to bring it to a transmission shop and he told me I had codes P3078, P0106 and P1314. He recommended a full transmission change but after watching your video it sounds like it could be a much more simple fix. What would you reccomend? I'm going to another mechanic for a 2nd opinion.
I would replace the Map sensor and clean the throttle body for your faults and then clear your fault codes and see if the trans is now fixed and shifting ok before you spend thousands rebuilding the trans. These trans are typically good for 200k miles but they do have hard shifts when hot and that is caused by the valve body inside the trans that needs replacing due to sticking solenoid valve causes hard up and down shifting when hot.
@@matttorian Thank you!
Very helpfull thanks for taking the time!
Your welcome!
And location
Hi Matt, great video. I changed the map sensor and the code is still coming up. When replacing I noticed one of the pins in the connector was missing. Could this be the problem? I also brought it to VW so I'm assuming the software is up to date, but they told me the throttle body is no good as well as the connector. Is this a possibility? Thanks
Make sure you used the right part number map sensor. The older jettas were 3 wire 05-07, newer jettas were 4 wire. Make sure your not missing pins. Dont assume anything with a dealer. Get a used OEM throttle body and replace it yourself. Dont pay the dealer prices for a new TB. Good Luck.
Make sure you clear the codes as well.
@@matttorian yes I cleared the codes as well and made sure it was the correct map sensor. Will get a new throttle and do myself. Thank you!
Super helpful video, thank you! Only complaint is that it was posted in 2020 and is only 480p!?
Sorry about that
@@matttorian haha no worries man. I just didn’t even know 480p was still a thing really. What kind of camera did you use?
I’m not sure, my camera guy made it and sent me the video.
@@matttorian Gotcha. I mean any modern iPhone is gonna shoot 1080p and higher, so may wanna get your camera guy up to speed haha
Спасибо!
Познавательно
thank you!
You’re the man! Thanks brotha
thank you!
Do you know what size is the screw that goes into the left side of the MAP sensor?
Hi Stefanos, The screw is a very coarse thread for plastic, the measurements are 5mm wide x 16mm long and the exact Vw part number is N 104 420 03
@@matttorian Thanks so much! I finally got time to respond. Very helpfull
What you thing about P2188 ?
Too rich off idle. This is a fairly rare fault and without actually looking at it I can only give you my best guess. You might have fuel in your oil, I would change the oil and also clean the throttle body and adapt it: it wouldn’t hurt to do a tune up on the car, install new spark plugs. You also might need a new Map sensor, possibly new Maf sensor if you have one depending on your year and possibly a new front oxygen sensor that is reading too rich. Also make sure your PCV valve diaphragm on the valve cover isn’t torn and leaking vacuum. That typically causes a lean fault though. Good luck
Whats the name of the scanner please.
Vag com/ VCDS available on RossTECH.com
What if you don't have VCD software (free) and the $500+ adaptor. How do you adapt the throttle then?
Disregard. Answer to my question was down below in the comments. Silly me! Thanks for a great video!
Hi Kirk, I showed this step as we always do this at my shop but I think you will be fine without adapting the TB. just clean it well and make sure to clear your fault codes. -Matt
and Vag-Com cable is available for $199 through Ross-tech.com. for me it is absolutely priceless tool for Vw/ Audi repair work.
@@matttorian isn't the vag-com for older VW's? I have a 2013 Passat and thought I needed vcd and the Bluetooth adapter... $199 is close to what I paid for my code reader (with some vw features). In any case thanks for the video and taking time to be responsive! I've got parts coming Saturday and will be doing this for sure.
@@kirkramanauskas3232 vag-com, vcds and Ross tech are all the same. The software is free you just need a laptop and the cable. I know they had single vin cables for $199. Vagcom works for all obd2 vehicles from 1996-2022. It is a powerful tool that can scan any control module on the entire car just like the factory scanner. The only thing it can’t do it functions that require a factory password like keys, ecm and instrument cluster/ immobilizer replacement. But in your case you just need a simple obd2 scanner to clear your fault codes and you should be fine.
Is that an electric throttle?
Yes drive by wire. No throttle cable
I got a pesky P0106 even after a new sensor
HI Jester, I would visit your local dealer and see about a possible software update for your ECM. Also what year is your car? There are 2 different versions of Map sensors on the 2.5L engine. Just make sure you installed the correct version. You have cleared the fault and it returns right? Lastly you might need a new connector and terminals if all else fails.
Matt Torian it’s a 2012. Yeah it comes and go i was gonna try cleaning it and see what that would do
What is the bosch part number?
There are two different Map sensors, the early BPR 2.5L 2005-2007 uses a MAF and the Map sensor is different. This video is for the newer CBUA 2.5L 2008-2014 with NO MAF and uses Bosch # 0261230234.
@@matttorian thank you for the answer 😊
Video very helpful!!!
Glad it was helpful!
i'm getting misfire cel codes and rough idle. i've already replaced the pcv, map sensor, coils, and plugs for my 2.5. i have rough idle at startup and when stopped at lights. car seems to be fine at highway speeds. after the engine comes to temp i hear a whistling sound which might be coming from the new pcv diaphragm.
could i have a vacuum leak? how can i check and where is it most likely to come from?
the rough idling etc and misfires started after i bumped into a curb at relatively low speed due to road conditions. thanks!
Hello Kumbackquatsta, You have a vacuum leak. Guaranteed. The replacement PCV from Dorman are china junk and they do not work, they leak brand new. You can disconnect the large vacuum pipe on the valve cover and plug it with your thumb and start the engine. It should idle normally. Now you have isolated the vacuum leak to the pcv system. Replace the entire valve cover with a good OEM Vw original valve cover. This will fix your problem. Good luck
@@matttorian thanks for the reply matt! i will check the pcv. is it better to replace the entire valve cover rather than just the pcv? mine is 2012 2.5 with the separate components.
assuming a failed/whistling pcv, should i also assume that oil has gotten down to the map sensor too at this point and look into cleaning/replacing the map again?
can high revving an engine cause a pcv to prematurely fail?
Replace the whole valve cover with the built in PCV. It’s whistling and leaking vacuum at idle. They are not cheap from Vw ($400) but you can probably find one online for a good deal. The map sensor will be fine. Let me know if you fix it
@@matttorian thanks i'll look online. do pcv deletes for the 2.5 exist? and do you have any thoughts on them?
@@kumbackquatsta no don’t do that, fix it right. You need the Oem pcv, it’s a oil separator as well. Keep it stock. Don’t bolt more junk on your engine
Gracias excelente explicación!
De nada!
If I disconnect the throttle body do I have to re learn it or it is just plug and play??
I have the same question.
@@nobleotero3208 yes plug and play