Mike from Model Makers Inc demonstrates how to drill holes in acrylic without cracking or shattering. Let us know if you have any questions about working with plastics.
I just tried it on 2mm (0.08") acrylic sheet. Right next to corner edge. It works brilliantly. New 6mm HSS drill but with dulled cutting edges and corners, just like you demo'd. 500 rpm not good but 800 much cleaner hole, fewer micro-chips but more melt-exit shim to chamfer off. Thanks Mike, much easier than grinding down new drills to 120° point.
worked flawlessly! made holes right on edge of acrylic effortlessly. I used some water with coarse side of Gordon combination sharpening stone from harbor freight to flatten the cutting edge. Took 1-2min to flatten each edge (my bit had 2 edges, was the standard titanium 118 degree bits from harbor freight). You just make the cutting edge of the tip flat instead of sharp. He said parallel to shank, which is incorrect. parallel to the cutting edge. Flatten the sharp cutting side of the tip that makes the angle of the drill bit, opposite the flute. Cheers!
My 'bounce' my bits as they cut. I get good results that way. I am going to have to try your method. I like the way it works. I have also watched many of your videos in the past and I love what you have all done. I have subscribed.
That's great, thanks! We'll be making more, and we're open to suggestions if there's something specific you'd like to see. Don't understand "My 'bounce' my bits as they cut" - ?
@@modelmakers33 Bouncing Bits is just drilling for a second and then bringing it up and then drilling again until you drill all the way through. I do that with materials I know will break or even melt with too much friction from the bit.
I'm looking to enlarge an existing hole from 28mm to 30mm. What would be the best suggestion for doing this without cracking? I was thinking a step bit but I'm not sure if they make them that size.
@@SatoshiMatrix1 Try using a rounded file - gently, and just avoid 'tugging' on the material, or it could break. After a few careful strokes you should get a feel for the amount of force required to remove material without bending or pushing or pulling on it. I don't know how accurate you need to be, but it might help to draw or scribe the new larger circle on it before you start. Enlarging a hole with a file by 1mm in 2mm thick acrylic shouldn't take long. You're not removing a lot of material. Just be careful and take your time. If you don't have a rounded file, you can also curl a piece of medium grit sandpaper and use that.
@@modelmakers33 The exact thing I need to modify is an arcade machine panel. The panel is wood, with 28mm button holes. I need to widen the holes to 30mm. This is no problem drilling through the wood. The problem I have is with the acylic panel on top that serves to protect the wood finish from finger oils. I want to simply enlarge the existing holes without cracking the thin material. So what about using a step bit?
@@SatoshiMatrix1 If you can remove the acrylic from the wood panel then you can use a file or rolled up sandpaper to enlarge the hole by 2mm. No opinion on a step bit.
Yup, that's a different animal. The technique that Mike is demonstrating is for smaller holes. Depending on how precise you need to be, you can start with a smaller hole and then file it open to a larger size. You can use spade bits to make larger holes in softer plastics, but spade bits don't work well on acrylic. Of course, if you have a CNC machine with an endmill or laser, you can make nice round (or any other shape) holes of any size...
It's essential to use the appropriate blade or cutter. We covered some aspects of that in an earlier video, 'Edge Finishing Acrylic,' where we cut 3/4" acrylic with a circular saw blade made specifically for plastic. That video is certainly not thoroughly comprehensive when it comes to cutting acrylic, so thanks for the suggestion! Is there something specific you'd like to see?
I just tried it on 2mm (0.08") acrylic sheet. Right next to corner edge. It works brilliantly. New 6mm HSS drill but with dulled cutting edges and corners, just like you demo'd.
500 rpm not good but 800 much cleaner hole, fewer micro-chips but more melt-exit shim to chamfer off. Thanks Mike, much easier than grinding down new drills to 120° point.
Just tried this, in a before/after. Flipping remarkable. Thank you so much.
Thank you. Very simple solution. Appreciated
worked flawlessly! made holes right on edge of acrylic effortlessly. I used some water with coarse side of Gordon combination sharpening stone from harbor freight to flatten the cutting edge. Took 1-2min to flatten each edge (my bit had 2 edges, was the standard titanium 118 degree bits from harbor freight). You just make the cutting edge of the tip flat instead of sharp. He said parallel to shank, which is incorrect. parallel to the cutting edge. Flatten the sharp cutting side of the tip that makes the angle of the drill bit, opposite the flute. Cheers!
My 'bounce' my bits as they cut. I get good results that way. I am going to have to try your method. I like the way it works. I have also watched many of your videos in the past and I love what you have all done. I have subscribed.
That's great, thanks! We'll be making more, and we're open to suggestions if there's something specific you'd like to see. Don't understand "My 'bounce' my bits as they cut" - ?
@@modelmakers33 Bouncing Bits is just drilling for a second and then bringing it up and then drilling again until you drill all the way through. I do that with materials I know will break or even melt with too much friction from the bit.
@@andrewluchsinger Ah. I had not heard that term used before. I think what you're describing is what we would call a 'peck.'
@@modelmakers33 We both have learned a new term. Very Sweet.
@Andrew Luchsinger 👍
What about those drill bits for wood that have a sharp pointed tip and outside edge ? not sure what they're called.
A glass ceramic bit works also
I'm looking to enlarge an existing hole from 28mm to 30mm. What would be the best suggestion for doing this without cracking? I was thinking a step bit but I'm not sure if they make them that size.
How thick is the acrylic?
@@modelmakers33 Not thick at all -- maybe 2mm. Very thin.
@@SatoshiMatrix1 Try using a rounded file - gently, and just avoid 'tugging' on the material, or it could break. After a few careful strokes you should get a feel for the amount of force required to remove material without bending or pushing or pulling on it. I don't know how accurate you need to be, but it might help to draw or scribe the new larger circle on it before you start. Enlarging a hole with a file by 1mm in 2mm thick acrylic shouldn't take long. You're not removing a lot of material. Just be careful and take your time. If you don't have a rounded file, you can also curl a piece of medium grit sandpaper and use that.
@@modelmakers33 The exact thing I need to modify is an arcade machine panel. The panel is wood, with 28mm button holes. I need to widen the holes to 30mm. This is no problem drilling through the wood. The problem I have is with the acylic panel on top that serves to protect the wood finish from finger oils. I want to simply enlarge the existing holes without cracking the thin material.
So what about using a step bit?
@@SatoshiMatrix1 If you can remove the acrylic from the wood panel then you can use a file or rolled up sandpaper to enlarge the hole by 2mm. No opinion on a step bit.
How about larger holes, like 1/2" or larger, where one might normally use a hole saw???
Yup, that's a different animal. The technique that Mike is demonstrating is for smaller holes. Depending on how precise you need to be, you can start with a smaller hole and then file it open to a larger size. You can use spade bits to make larger holes in softer plastics, but spade bits don't work well on acrylic. Of course, if you have a CNC machine with an endmill or laser, you can make nice round (or any other shape) holes of any size...
Hi, it would be great if you could show how you clean-cut acrylic sheet pieces.
It's essential to use the appropriate blade or cutter. We covered some aspects of that in an earlier video, 'Edge Finishing Acrylic,' where we cut 3/4" acrylic with a circular saw blade made specifically for plastic. That video is certainly not thoroughly comprehensive when it comes to cutting acrylic, so thanks for the suggestion! Is there something specific you'd like to see?
@@modelmakers33 I want to cut n finish acrylic accurately as you do for your models. Thanks for your response.
Watching the video, just after I chipped mine 😭.
I use a cement drill ,........................ Works fine
That's good to know. Thanks.
Or you can buy a drill bit that’s used for soft material like a 90° drill bit… 118° is made for hard metals