from some one who has done a lot of work with steel, put a piece of hardwood in the vice first. This ensures the vice clamps the stock flatter. For safety , if not clamping the vice, swing the stock so it is against the drill press mast. That is in case the bit grabs, it wont rip it out of your hands. It also leaves your hand free to move the vice around on the table for starting the bit.
Wow, I honestly think this is the most well done instructional video I have ever seen on TH-cam in my life! No splashy intros, no music, I didn't have to hear your life story before you show how it's done...so nice! I just hit Subscribe after watching just this one video - never done THAT before either! Thanks so much, very well done.
All these years and I just now heard of a spring loaded center punch and cutting oil with sulfer. Thanks for posting this Bailey Line Road! It's worth watching the entire vid.
Holy cow that was fast! I just hand drilled four 7/16" holes through 1/4" steel using one pilot hole. It went well, but took a lot longer. Used slowish speed on drill speed setting 1 with LOTS of downward pressure. Got nice curly cues with pilot bit, not so much with big bit.
That was amazingly fast! I’ve been drilling approx. 1/4” and 3/8” holes in 1/4” aluminum stock today using increasingly larger sized drill bits. The first hole (1/8”) takes me far longer than it took you to drill a 1/2” hole in much harder steel with the step bit. I didn’t even think about using my step bit but will try it this afternoon. Since I am tapping the holes for bolts, I will need to switch back to the correct size drill bit before the holes get too large.
Thank you for recommending the stage bit. I used a Milwaukee but on my cordless hand drill on 1/4 steel. 40 holes and the bit looks like new. I used the 18v battery for the torque with speed on 2 (high) More importantly the holes are beautiful. Thanks.
Speed was the thing I was looking for but found in the net a simple rule of thumb: 20000/(3,141*drill diameter). If the dill is 25 mm, it would be 20000/(3,141*25) = 255 rpm. Any thoughts? I enlarged holes from 22 mm to 25 mm in cast iron and selected closest gear ration I could for speed which was 210 rpm and the drilling was a pleasure with cutting oil.
i use these DEWALT DT7926-XJ 29 Piece Extreme 2 Metal Drill Bit Set . i have them for years .no problem ever going through any thickness even starting with the half inch one.i have a constant flow of cutting fluid on them .
Excellent video. Thank you . What makes a great instructional video is , and most miss this point, INSTRUCTIONS . Your video is clear and concise. I learned what I need to learn. Thank you . Well done
Nice suggestion with the step bit and center finding ruler. My problem is your reasoning for not using a regular bit and keeping the stock long is to keep your work from spinning. So if you are going to claim proper procedure then your vice should be mounted to your drill press table. Every drill press I’ve ever used, including cheap harbor freight models have at least one warning label saying not to hold your parts with your hand. So to be proper the vice needs to be bolted down and your hands should be clear of the part.
I really work hard to drill hole in bed frame ( the modern type, black , with wheel that goes under 2 matress). Small bit went easy, then, never succeeded pass 3/8..actually, made a lot of smoke, lots of noise..and snap. Was using 3 in one oil. Same drill press as you, slowest speed on pulley. (600). Wil go buy cutting oil, and better drill...as, I now ruined them. Thanks. I do have step drill...but wasn't sure it can go to thicker than thin sheet...but not ready to risk it. That frame bed metal is not soft.
Hello Jean Luc! Yes, bed frames do tend to be hard, and this can make for tricky drilling. But the fact that your smaller bit went through okay tells us that the steel is not too hard to drill. I suspect that the reason your bigger bit broke is because it was quite a bit bigger than the smaller hole you drilled and the bigger bit got caught in the steel and broke. I think you'll find that a high quality step bit solves this problem. I'd also recommend using real cutting oil instead of 3-in-1. This won't stop bits from breaking, but it will make the edge last longer. I hope this helps. Please let me know. Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and videos of interest to hands-on, how-to people. Bye for now and thanks for watching! Steve
Really great video! Thanks a lot for making and sharing it. I'm gonna drill severeal 1/2 inch holes over the next days, and will first start with a traditional (but extremely rugged/hard) drill bit, made for stainless steel. If it doesn't work (with some pre-drilling with smaller holes), I'll have to go for the step-bit you're showing.
Thanks! I'm a big noob to doing any sort of metalwork, as I'm making a bracket for my car for a project using some hot rolled steel plate. I've got the tools, but no experience.
You can use a cordless drill. Use a lot of pressure and dont spin it too fast. Once you reach the end of the metal all that pressure you're putting on is gonna smash the drill chuch into the material and possibly hurt you as well so use wood as a backer.
Didn't look like the steel stock was laying flat against the bottom of the vise, there's just air under there, bound to create some slippage. You're also holding your vise physically which is hardly better than just holding the stock with your own hand, not surprising you mention the bit grabs the stock and spins it, it shouldn't be able to do that. There's some great tips in here, but those bits gave me the heebies honestly.
And I am so jealous at you and others that so easily drill into metal. I have a Bosch PBD 40 which I use for woodworking, It is impossible for me to drill into a Lawn machine blade/ knife. I tried on thinner steel, s circular saw blade, it doesn't go either. i use good quality ordinary bits. perhaps my fault is that I didn't go through 4-5 steps. I tried at 5 mm which is impossible.
Ok, now listen to me...The whole thing people get wrong when drilling metal is the fact that they don't know about SFM which stands for Surface Feet per Minute. The SFM for high speed steel is 3.82. That NEVER changes. Now to make this easier we'll move the decimal point two places to the right. Now we have 382. 382 is perfect for soft metals like aluminum and brass, soft metals in general...Ok, so now the formula: Lets say we're drilling a 1/2 inch hole into aluminum. We'll take our 382 and divide that by .500 which equals 764. That's our speed for a 1/2 inch drill in aluminum. Now when drilling mild steel we reduce the value by 40%. 382 x 60% equals 229. So again 229 divided by .500 equals 450. 450 is the proper speed for a 1/2 hole in mild steel. Now we'll do stainless steel. We'll reduce the 382 by half so 50%, that leaves us with the value of 191. So once again 191 divided by .500 equals 382, that's our speed for stainless steel. Now as far as drilling a pilot hole for a bigger drill, the pilot hole only needs to be bigger then the final size drill bits web. The web is where the two flutes meet.
Thank you John, you sound like a pro. Steve's video is absolutely EXCELLENT, but I did come away with questions about bit speed, and your comment resolved those questions. I'm a seasoned wood worker (both professional, and hobbyist), so I know enough to "know what I don't know". I also have the tools, and know and respect that using ANY power tool properly is the craft. If I may, I would like to ask you both a question: If I wanted to extend a slot in 1/4" x 2-1/4" steel (for an office chair backrest bar), I am certainly capable of drilling a series of holes, but that would leave areas that would need to be filed away (since I couldn't grind them clearly). Would you have any advice on extending a slot like this?
That drill press will easily drill 1/2" in that mild steel without resorting to a step drill. Yes, with regular 118 degree point drill bits I'd pilot it (1/8" or 5/32') first, but a good bullet point or split point would probably go through in one pass. There's no way that you need a step bit there to ensure a clean hole. The point on most drill bits is less then 30% of the diameter, which is considerably less than the workpiece thickness, so you're drilling full diameter well before the drill breaks though. That is not a difficult workpiece for a regular drill bit.
I'm such a dumb ass. I burned out like 6 bits last week drilling 1/4" holes into 1/8" hardened steel. And I have one of those step bits and completely friggen forgot I have it. Mega super fail.
Good Morning David! Why would you say that a "step bit is junk for 1/4" cold rolled" steel when you've just watched a step bit go through 1/4" cold rolled mild steel like a hot knife through butter? And the bit I used was not new, but had drilled dozens of holes previously and is still working fine today. Having been on TH-cam since 2008, from time to time I see comments from armchair quarterbacks who have strong opinions, but no substance. What I don't understand is why some people choose to make themselves look foolish on a public forum. Could it be that perhaps you've been trying to drill cold rolled wrong, and the fault is not with the bit? What problems have you run into? Maybe ask the metalworking community to help you out. Humility is the mother of wisdom.
Hi Jeremy! I should have mentioned something about drill speed, but it's actually not a terribly complicated thing. Just adjust your drill press for a speed a notch or two above the slowest and you'll be fine. Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and lots of other stuff of interest to hands-on, how-to people. Bye for now and thanks for watching! Steve P.S. Are you a pilot? Your profile photo looks like you're in a cockpit.
@@baileylineroad . Yes sorry did not realise you had responded. I do have my ppl in which I am building a kitfox at present. And learning how to use drill presses amongst other things within the process. Learning a lot in a small amount of time, which is nice tho. I have now set my pillar drill up to 1500rpm and 400 using a back gear. It was either 80rpm and 400 or the latter
Fantastic video! No ear bleed music, long intro, just the facts. Much appreciated
Glad you liked it!
from some one who has done a lot of work with steel, put a piece of hardwood in the vice first. This ensures the vice clamps the stock flatter. For safety , if not clamping the vice, swing the stock so it is against the drill press mast. That is in case the bit grabs, it wont rip it out of your hands. It also leaves your hand free to move the vice around on the table for starting the bit.
Wow, I honestly think this is the most well done instructional video I have ever seen on TH-cam in my life! No splashy intros, no music, I didn't have to hear your life story before you show how it's done...so nice! I just hit Subscribe after watching just this one video - never done THAT before either! Thanks so much, very well done.
All these years and I just now heard of a spring loaded center punch and cutting oil with sulfer. Thanks for posting this Bailey Line Road! It's worth watching the entire vid.
Your method far surpasses any other I've seen on drilling through steel. Thanks!
Glad to help!
I've never really understood that bit before, but the way you lead into it makes perfect sense.
Holy cow that was fast! I just hand drilled four 7/16" holes through 1/4" steel using one pilot hole. It went well, but took a lot longer. Used slowish speed on drill speed setting 1 with LOTS of downward pressure. Got nice curly cues with pilot bit, not so much with big bit.
That’s perfect. Thanks for the video. I’m drilling 1” holes in 1/4” steel. Thanks for all the information
That was amazingly fast! I’ve been drilling approx. 1/4” and 3/8” holes in 1/4” aluminum stock today using increasingly larger sized drill bits. The first hole (1/8”) takes me far longer than it took you to drill a 1/2” hole in much harder steel with the step bit. I didn’t even think about using my step bit but will try it this afternoon. Since I am tapping the holes for bolts, I will need to switch back to the correct size drill bit before the holes get too large.
Thank you for recommending the stage bit. I used a Milwaukee but on my cordless hand drill on 1/4 steel. 40 holes and the bit looks like new. I used the 18v battery for the torque with speed on 2 (high) More importantly the holes are beautiful. Thanks.
I really liked the way you explained it step by step
I love you tube thanks for saving my headache I just bought a drill press and I need to do this for metal as well worked perfect! Thank you!
I'd never gave it much thought. To get to 1/2", I'd use three bits for that operation. It looks like a time saver.
Speed was the thing I was looking for but found in the net a simple rule of thumb: 20000/(3,141*drill diameter). If the dill is 25 mm, it would be 20000/(3,141*25) = 255 rpm. Any thoughts? I enlarged holes from 22 mm to 25 mm in cast iron and selected closest gear ration I could for speed which was 210 rpm and the drilling was a pleasure with cutting oil.
i use these DEWALT DT7926-XJ 29 Piece Extreme 2 Metal Drill Bit Set . i have them for years .no problem ever going through any thickness even starting with the half inch one.i have a constant flow of cutting fluid on them .
Excellent video. Thank you . What makes a great instructional video is , and most miss this point, INSTRUCTIONS . Your video is clear and concise. I learned what I need to learn. Thank you . Well done
Very informative and well done video. Thank you. It’s going to help me a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
What brand of step bit is that? I have some of the cheapos and they don't drill that fast! Nice video, BTW!
Nice suggestion with the step bit and center finding ruler.
My problem is your reasoning for not using a regular bit and keeping the stock long is to keep your work from spinning. So if you are going to claim proper procedure then your vice should be mounted to your drill press table. Every drill press I’ve ever used, including cheap harbor freight models have at least one warning label saying not to hold your parts with your hand. So to be proper the vice needs to be bolted down and your hands should be clear of the part.
I really work hard to drill hole in bed frame ( the modern type, black , with wheel that goes under 2 matress). Small bit went easy, then, never succeeded pass 3/8..actually, made a lot of smoke, lots of noise..and snap. Was using 3 in one oil. Same drill press as you, slowest speed on pulley. (600). Wil go buy cutting oil, and better drill...as, I now ruined them. Thanks. I do have step drill...but wasn't sure it can go to thicker than thin sheet...but not ready to risk it. That frame bed metal is not soft.
Hello Jean Luc! Yes, bed frames do tend to be hard, and this can make for tricky drilling. But the fact that your smaller bit went through okay tells us that the steel is not too hard to drill. I suspect that the reason your bigger bit broke is because it was quite a bit bigger than the smaller hole you drilled and the bigger bit got caught in the steel and broke. I think you'll find that a high quality step bit solves this problem. I'd also recommend using real cutting oil instead of 3-in-1. This won't stop bits from breaking, but it will make the edge last longer.
I hope this helps. Please let me know.
Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and videos of interest to hands-on, how-to people.
Bye for now and thanks for watching!
Steve
First class advice for me, a novice metal worker. Thanks !
Really great video! Thanks a lot for making and sharing it. I'm gonna drill severeal 1/2 inch holes over the next days, and will first start with a traditional (but extremely rugged/hard) drill bit, made for stainless steel. If it doesn't work (with some pre-drilling with smaller holes), I'll have to go for the step-bit you're showing.
SUPER helpful video; just what I needed to know. THANKS!
Fantastic video. Very well done. Thanks!
Thanks! I'm a big noob to doing any sort of metalwork, as I'm making a bracket for my car for a project using some hot rolled steel plate. I've got the tools, but no experience.
Oh man! I was going to do this with a 1/2" drill bit. This goes so fast! And no grief. Alas, I have to buy a drill press.
Thanks for the video - planning on drilling 3/8 hole in 5/8 steel.
You make it look easy...
Thank you...
Informative and efficient. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much for explaining the process. :)
Thank you, you just saved my bits and a lot of time. :)
Amazing video and explanation!
What's the kw of that drill press? I want to buy an all-rounder drill press but I don't want to overkill
Thank you, Sir. What brand was that Bit?
For 1/8" mild steel, can you use a handheld / cordless drill? Or you must use a drill press?
You can use a cordless drill. Use a lot of pressure and dont spin it too fast. Once you reach the end of the metal all that pressure you're putting on is gonna smash the drill chuch into the material and possibly hurt you as well so use wood as a backer.
What is that step drill bit made of ? Carbide or hss ?
Didn't look like the steel stock was laying flat against the bottom of the vise, there's just air under there, bound to create some slippage. You're also holding your vise physically which is hardly better than just holding the stock with your own hand, not surprising you mention the bit grabs the stock and spins it, it shouldn't be able to do that. There's some great tips in here, but those bits gave me the heebies honestly.
Thanks Steve, another excellent info vid. Appreciate these.
Are you using regular oil ? or actual cutting fluid ?
Nice and clean.
Im trying to drill a hole in a 1 inch steel ball? Any ideas??
Great video. Thank you😀
Thanks heaps
Great thank you for this!!
what the name of the bit you used
What happens when the metal is of the same hardness as the drilling bit?
thank you. safety goggles are smart
How do you know you aren't making the hole bigger than necessary?
Thanks.
How many RMP did you set to drill such a thick metal like this ?
Can I use a hand power drill?
Many thanks!
Impressive!
Thanks✨
A good tutorial :D
I came here to learn and now finding out I need a drill press to drill the 1/2 inch hole I need into 1/4 inch steel plate.
And I am so jealous at you and others that so easily drill into metal. I have a Bosch PBD 40 which I use for woodworking, It is impossible for me to drill into a Lawn machine blade/ knife. I tried on thinner steel, s circular saw blade, it doesn't go either. i use good quality ordinary bits. perhaps my fault is that I didn't go through 4-5 steps. I tried at 5 mm which is impossible.
I have a 1/4 steel plate and I can’t even drill a hole it has to be very hard steel any idea what I can use to drill holes
might want to bring it to a metal working shop. they have a punch, or proper bits to get it done easily.
Another very helpful video, thanks Steve.
Was just fine
Ok, now listen to me...The whole thing people get wrong when drilling metal is the fact that they don't know about SFM which stands for Surface Feet per Minute. The SFM for high speed steel is 3.82. That NEVER changes. Now to make this easier we'll move the decimal point two places to the right. Now we have 382. 382 is perfect for soft metals like aluminum and brass, soft metals in general...Ok, so now the formula: Lets say we're drilling a 1/2 inch hole into aluminum. We'll take our 382 and divide that by .500 which equals 764. That's our speed for a 1/2 inch drill in aluminum. Now when drilling mild steel we reduce the value by 40%. 382 x 60% equals 229. So again 229 divided by .500 equals 450. 450 is the proper speed for a 1/2 hole in mild steel. Now we'll do stainless steel. We'll reduce the 382 by half so 50%, that leaves us with the value of 191. So once again 191 divided by .500 equals 382, that's our speed for stainless steel. Now as far as drilling a pilot hole for a bigger drill, the pilot hole only needs to be bigger then the final size drill bits web. The web is where the two flutes meet.
Thank you John, you sound like a pro. Steve's video is absolutely EXCELLENT, but I did come away with questions about bit speed, and your comment resolved those questions. I'm a seasoned wood worker (both professional, and hobbyist), so I know enough to "know what I don't know". I also have the tools, and know and respect that using ANY power tool properly is the craft. If I may, I would like to ask you both a question: If I wanted to extend a slot in 1/4" x 2-1/4" steel (for an office chair backrest bar), I am certainly capable of drilling a series of holes, but that would leave areas that would need to be filed away (since I couldn't grind them clearly). Would you have any advice on extending a slot like this?
8:15 = shop ASMR.
Im heading to Lows in the morning, now I know what those bits are for lol. Thanks for the video Sr.
How bout two inch solid bar 🎉
That drill press will easily drill 1/2" in that mild steel without resorting to a step drill. Yes, with regular 118 degree point drill bits I'd pilot it (1/8" or 5/32') first, but a good bullet point or split point would probably go through in one pass. There's no way that you need a step bit there to ensure a clean hole. The point on most drill bits is less then 30% of the diameter, which is considerably less than the workpiece thickness, so you're drilling full diameter well before the drill breaks though. That is not a difficult workpiece for a regular drill bit.
I'm such a dumb ass.
I burned out like 6 bits last week drilling 1/4" holes into 1/8" hardened steel.
And I have one of those step bits and completely friggen forgot I have it. Mega super fail.
Step bit is junk bit for 1/4” cold roll.
Good Morning David! Why would you say that a "step bit is junk for 1/4" cold rolled" steel when you've just watched a step bit go through 1/4" cold rolled mild steel like a hot knife through butter? And the bit I used was not new, but had drilled dozens of holes previously and is still working fine today. Having been on TH-cam since 2008, from time to time I see comments from armchair quarterbacks who have strong opinions, but no substance. What I don't understand is why some people choose to make themselves look foolish on a public forum. Could it be that perhaps you've been trying to drill cold rolled wrong, and the fault is not with the bit? What problems have you run into? Maybe ask the metalworking community to help you out. Humility is the mother of wisdom.
Wow. No BS at all in this video.
👍
I'm over here with a hand drill 😑
Like
Ware you cantry
Your fingers are a little too close to the spinning drill bit man. Too close.
All this and no mention of drill speed whatsoever..
Hi Jeremy! I should have mentioned something about drill speed, but it's actually not a terribly complicated thing. Just adjust your drill press for a speed a notch or two above the slowest and you'll be fine.
Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and lots of other stuff of interest to hands-on, how-to people.
Bye for now and thanks for watching!
Steve
P.S. Are you a pilot? Your profile photo looks like you're in a cockpit.
@@baileylineroad . Yes sorry did not realise you had responded. I do have my ppl in which I am building a kitfox at present. And learning how to use drill presses amongst other things within the process. Learning a lot in a small amount of time, which is nice tho. I have now set my pillar drill up to 1500rpm and 400 using a back gear. It was either 80rpm and 400 or the latter
Thanks! I need alot of tools 🔧 😔