That vacuum trick cracked me up! As a boat owner that has run my own NMEA 2000 wiring, I am blown away by that! That's about a million times easier than pulling through a messenger line the old fashioned way. Your videos make my day!
Hi Mads, as per usual, I love your work. Pre warning to you and everyone reading this post, I am a armchair sailor that being said I am an Electronics engineer. While getting ready for setting off one thing you might want to consider is integrity of your NMEA system. I would suggest buying a NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 converter. There have been a few YT channels that have been struck by lightning and getting their complete NMEA network up and running again has been changing 1 NMEA 2000 product (that has been affected by the lightning strike) and using a converter plugging to it back into the network but using its NMEA 0183 port. NMEA is just like canbus in cars, 1 faulty sensor / product can bring down the entire network. Fortunately for the Marine industry we still have both codes running simultaneously, so if lightning blows the 2000 side of say your chart plotter, if you are lucky the 0183 may not have been affected. Using 1 converter could bring back online your entire NMEA network. Latest iteration of this I have seen was Parlay Revivals. 1 converter supplied by a fellow sailor restored his entire system and it makes sense. In this era of conversion between the 2 standards it is cheaper for manufacturers to supply both NMEA inputs / standards into a product than manufacturing 2 of the same product that meets either standard. Fortunately each plug has its own supply board so if one gets taken out, the main system may still be intact and chances are that the other plugs supply board is unaffected. $70ish converter vs replacing say a chart plotter and getting your entire network back on track. I'd say was a cheap repair. Plus if you never have to use it, you could be a hero to a fellow sailor that has been unfortunate enough to be struck by lightning and only had the 2000 side of an instrument affect their entire instrument cluster.
Two suggestions for the arch: 1. Athwartship rigidity will be one of your challenges. On my boat I integrated the arch into the pushpit resulting in a very rigid structure. 2. For both aesthetics and structure I would keep the overall height to a minimum. On my boat the solar panels are about 6 inches above the bimini. Looks pleasing to the eye and reduces moments of force caused by the wind.
I too am freezing my balls off shooting my sailing channel! Don't forget! 3 more months and it will start to get warm and all this hard work will pay off!! Great video!!
I'd keep those solar panels down near boom height. Cleaning, servicing, windage during windy mooring maneuvers, etc., will all come into play sooner or later. Make it easy on yourself.
It looks a little high to me as well but remember he needs to duck under the boom (see 4:26) and access on and off of the boat is under these panels. Perhaps mounting the panels so that one side of the mount can be released and then tilted on the other side could help.
@@rickhicksedm I'm not sure if he'd be ducking under that boom while standing on the cockpit sole, but I'd prefer (if it was my boat) to be able to stand on the aft cockpit seats and be able to reach all of the solar panels and related hardware. No debate, just sayin".
Great explanation about why you paint the interior. Your video lighting is so nice and bright, I thought the finished wood would be the path you'd take but, now that it's painted, it is much brighter. Brighter be mo-bettuh. As you are well aware, the solar rig for the stern will be a sail in windy conditions so it will have to be over-engineered to survive Mother Nature. The last thing you want to see is your oh-so-glorious solar array saying goodbye to the sun before descending to Davey Jones locker. Maybe engineered wood for you kick rail? Weatherproof and no paint necessary. Great job Mads. Keep up the awesome work.
I would draw a complete wiring map including the NMEA network, it could be years before you need to mess with it again and having a map makes it a lot easier to find the routing and maybe the problem.
If I added my ideas, (a non electronics boat guy here) you'd be backing up, so, in the single breath I would say, put all that where your comfortable with it, user friendly is a good term here too; All ready for whatever your doing and excited for 2021's news and progress. Stay safe Mads, Happy 2021 and just know your getting it right anyway you do it.
You are going to want the chart plotter at eye level if at all possible. Also you could build a swinging arm for it to mount to, mount that arm on the back wall, and when not in use simply move it out of the way. That gives you more room for a bigger monitor and other items you will add later. Keep up the great work!
I did just that with a B & G system (i.e. a multifunction display in the the main berth), so that I can quickly keep track of what is going on at the helm while on passage. It has been extremely helpful. Highly recommend that.
..... always surprised when I see that the interior screen can only be seen when sitting at the nav station ... never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans ..
Mads the only suggestion I would offer would be to consider mounting the chart plotter up higher in that panel; that way when you are seated in the nav station and focused on your 24 inch monitor doing work, when you want a quick look at the plotter your eyes can just shift to the left, not have to look down. Will also make it more visible from elsewhere in the saloon. She is going to come together quickly now I think. Been here since very early on and am very excited for you and Ava.
Panduit make a great wire way to help manage wire. I have used it for many years in industrial electrical cabinets... love the show keep up the good work. PS I would also be willing to watch longer videos 👍
Put the breakers as high as possible so you won't bump into them while sitting there. Put the chart plotter on the pole so you can swing it around to any position and reach the controls on it without having to lean over the chart desk. This way one of you can still work in that spot while the other checks the chart. VHF position is good, perhaps put a second holder for the mic at the end of the chart table so you can quickly grab it, again without having to lean over the chart desk.
Agree with Dutchy's comment on the breakers. You have sailed enough to know what Sea State 4 feels like sitting at the chart table. With your shoulder size, it will be too easy to knock one of them during any transit or passage. If you put the chart plotter high on that panel, you may wish to add some sort of lexan or plexiglas cover for the switches (probably requiring you to inset the switch panel bits) so that they are protected from unintentional contact. Putting the chart plotter on the pole is a good idea, so long as you ensure it doesn't swing freely (you can sort of latch it while heeled) and it doesn't bang into people while manoeuvring. Enjoying watching you do this. You are as meticulous as I am and it pleases me to see good work being done.
There is a ~10 inch space above the intended hole for the electronics. Put the switches there - high up where they are suitable to switch while you're standing on the way out to the cockpit.
🤔 putting the switch panels (3) up-high behind you in the Nav. station, would aleveate any possible accidental on/off position. And, free-up space... No need to make a cluttered hatch in your Nav.station area. Nearest to the steps A/C then 24-volt then 12-volt panel. A/C is best to turn off first, being the most dangerous.
As far as the tower is concerned, make sure you have easy access to the top to be able to wipe down your solar panels. You'd be amazed how often you must do this due to salt spray, bird droppings, and even dust in anchorages.
Love your idea of using the vacuum to pull the snake line through! Salami on the fingers sounds tasty. I light snack before starting the task. There is a swivel mount available that the chart plotter should fit it. Mounts to the bulkhead and can be positioned to be seen from any angle.
I had to hold my breath when I saw all your toe rail mounts sitting on the deck until one by one they were put away. Too many times have I put something down on the deck only to hear an unfortunate splash announce its disappearance.
Wow, what a bonus. I didn’t know this channel existed but found it via ‘sailing cadoah’ who mentioned you have the same yacht series. Love that you have nailed the audio as most you tubers suck at that. Look forward to new episodes and will go back and see some older ones. Happy new year.
Speaking as a machinist and millwright , NOT A BOAT GUY ,, I would think of adding a drop brace on each back leg of your upright solar supports , down the back of the boat to support the weight of the swinging dingy in a storm , I relise it may be hard to bolt though the hull near the rear corners of the hull , so that would have to be thought over as well , Best Regards John , Ontario Canada.
I fully agree. Due to the angle and the short distance of your two wooden substitutes for whatever may come. There will be big pressure on your deck joints. From only 100kg load on top it will result in over 500kg of force or more depending of the measures. If you have your final measurements you may calculate that very easy by yourself. www.easycalculation.com/physics/classical-physics/effort-force-calculator.php (lever law)
Mads, you one of the handiest people I have seen. Canvas work is expensive, I believe you can do it your self and save a bundle I have been teaching my self how to sew. Here is I list of how to videos on biminis, dogers, and extentions.
It works on an empty conduit. After that you should always have a string pre-threaded though. Then pull another string with your next cable and so on....
The vacuum trick is standard practice for anyone working in conduit. I agree with Bill, add a pull string , no conduit should ever be without one. It also greatly helps to pull all of the cables into a conduit at once. Subsequent pulls alway get tangled (wiring the mast).
Chart plotters at the nav. station but I would have a repeater at the helm, wireless or wired. Keep 240v cables in conduit, separate from data and LV. Switch panels want to be in separate areas in my view - 240v away from nav. station. There is lots of kit you could and probably will fit - a central horizontal dado/duct with equipment above and below i.e. 4G booster, Navtex, AIS, MOB alarm, DC-DC (24-12v?) converter, computer+drive storage, TV booster, DAB antennae booster, sockets and charging points. It's almost endless! Great video.
Yeah I was wondering why he didnt duplicate the angle off the front of the hard dodger. I think I would taper each of the two sides closer at the top and like Mads said, narrower the top too.
Nice electronic system Mads, and very convenient. However, Murphy had it right: if things can go wrong, they will. Soooo, in addition to the NMEA stuff, I strongly recommend that you have mechanical gauges (oil pressure, coolant temp and ammeter) on the engine and genset. Also a sight-tube or dip-stick on at least one fuel and one water tank.
the last time I heard of a 3 hour tour it turned into about 8 years on an island, with snotty rich people and a professor that could make a radio out a coconut and some palm leaves, but could not fix a hole in the boat, ---just kidding, keep up the good work, and Happy New Year,
Put some kind of protective rail on the starboard and port side of the solar panels their full length... someone with a tall ladder, a long pole, etc walking down the dock is going to crack one othewise. the won't tell you either. Great video
Mads, as a HAM Radio operator, I would implore you to have the Radio matched to the Antenna. (The Standing Wave Ratio. SWR needs to be matched.) You can have a Radio Tech, Shop or find a Local HAM radio operator. It will extend the life of the Radio and also improve the performance.
I agree 100%, and that will optimize performance on transmitting and receiving - more than you can imagine, and as he said, extend the life of the radio. (ham radio operator since 1973, and electrical engineer here). It's the HUGE radio performance impact that is the biggest motivator for me.
I would paint the back of the technical compartment with flame resistant paint before you mount electrical cables to it. You should also partition the AC and DC from each other. The AC should enter and exit the panel as close to one edge as possible so it doesn't overlap with the DC in any way.
@@TheJekyll400 Tinned wire is more flexible than solid strand, and more resistant to corrosion. The wire isn't the most likely thing to catch fire, the devices inside are. The flame resistant paint is to keep a device that has shorted out and melted from catching the back of the board on fire and spreading it to the wires.
But... we want a 3hr long video... 😢 But in all seriousness. How well will those solar panels hold up to a storm? It looks like there’s a pretty big overhang on the front and back.
He should do a fridge like mechanism and rotate them 90° so their parallel with the transom. Then when they're needing more power or the sun is out they can flip the top panel up and over. When it's not in use, or the wind / sea is up they can flip it backup on top of the fixed panel and have more space.
@@BrunoWiebelt Yea I was wondering the same thing. But while they’re out and about it’s nice to have that extra power also. So I’m not sure they want to dismount them while they’re sailing. But... I’d be curious to hear what he’s got to say about it.
Ouff , those solar panels is a lot of windage high and far aft. It would definitely significantly impact sailing negatively and even be a hazard in really strong winds and big waves.
The panel with the switches should all be somewhere where you're least likely to accidentally switch them while sitting at the nav station. So a pie on the panel all in a row probably would make the best sense
Garmin is a great brand. See those build-in templates that just come standard. I have had a simple bike GPS from Garmin for years, I don't want another. I had a Garmin car GPS for years, I didn't want another one, but then Waze arrived. :-) I'm learning that they also, no doubt, make very good marine material. To remember if I ever own a sailing boat ;-)
While you are getting a spray hood you might consider a cockpit enclosure. One of the best things I ever purchased for my boat, give you that extra room on those cold rainy days and great for watching all the marina antics.
The vacuum cleaner cable run trick is awesome! The switch panel right next to your left elbow might lead to accidental switch flicking so maybe keep all switches up the top in a line? Plus you won’t have to reach down at a lower angle to flip switches. 😁
I have a couple of comments concerning the mounting of your circuit breaker assemblies. The circuit breakers should be protected from accidentally being switched on or off. This should be considered a safety issue. This could be accomplished by mounting plexiglass covers over the breakers. These covers could be hinged and/or secured with Velcro to keep them in place but easily accessed. I would also consider mounting the entire assembly with a hinge that allows the panel to drop down for maintenance purposes. Some of the other folks have made similar comments and I agree with them. I really enjoy watching the work that you are doing on your boat. Keep up the good work.
As always mad you continue to amaze me with such a simple but ingenious way to run line across the boat with the vacuum cleaner and a paper towel connected to a piece of string. Genius. Now maybe you didn't think of that and you're just emulating someone else but either way I'm going to give you full credit for that idea because I can! Continuing to follow your progress on the edge of my seat, you're somewhat extensive refit is the light of my Sunday afternoon. Can't wait to see what you come up with next. Oh and Happy New Year to you and your happy fiance.
That is a GENIUS way of getting cables through conduit - I'm about to do the same on a "somewhat extensive" (!) house referb and shall use the same technique!! Many thanks and very best wishes for 2021 from the UK.
My only peice of advise, is to hinge the panel, so that it flips down, with enough cable length to allow it to do so. I can't tell you the amount of frustration I have had, working upside down, or have a panel swinging back and forth as the waves roll the boat around. Flipping it down is nice, as its like your working at a desk.
I’m concerned about the wind loading on those solar panels. I feel that the transverse supports need to be further apart so that the panels don’t overhang them too much. Also I feel that the structure would be stronger if the uprights are not parallel. I’d suggest that the front feet should be some way further forward.
@@martinsachs3837 Agree, the over hang forward and aft of the frame is way to much. I've got a 52 ft boat and 166cm long panels are a worry for me let alone 200cm. I'll be getting mine deisgned with Auto CAD to strength test it with varying wind conditions. I'll be going with 4x 180W 67cm wide 146cm long.
@@martinsachs3837 I would be worried about them in 50 knots or over, even if they were not ripped off. The sail area which would be presented when the boat is caught beam on, and rolls to (say) 30 degrees on a steep wave front, plus another 30 degrees of heel due to the mast and storm sails, is enough that it would (in my estimation) not only add to the heel (which is not good when you're already closer to flat than to upright), but because it's so far aft, add hugely to the already problematic tendency to round up into the wind. If what you need to be doing is to bear away, to maintain speed and hence control (maybe to take avoiding action from a bigger wave, or to line up with a narrow pass or channel) then these solar arrays could conceivably put the boat at risk. Large, raised *horizontal* surfaces are a liability out of proportion to their size, because unlike sails (which are large raised *vertical* surfaces) their projected area INCREASES as the boat heels.
I don't know about a 3 hour video, but I be ok with 90 mins or so. Awesome regardless of the length. Happy New Year and looking forward to what 2021 brings.
European man credited with "salami fingers " anti covid protocol. He was quoted saying, it sure beats epoxy fingers..... also "fast and the furious, sailboat drift" pre calling it as the next Vin diesel movie :P
this episode was packed with goodies, 22min is short, so yeah 1h-3h videos are warmly recommended and expected. and there is only 6 months left for enjoying your work...
A wood worker's trick for the cracks at painted board seams and corners...a tiny amount of paintable caulk commonly used is DAP Alex White Painter's All-Purpose Acrylic Latex Caulk in the US. No fillet, just enough to fill the gap so the paint can span the gap.
Did not know such existed. I could use such a thing on the wings of my low wing aircraft to simply melt the ice off from under the wing covers instead of spending an hour scraping it away in prepping it for flight during winter. Engine heater heats the engine and now there is a possible way of easily clearing the ice off the wings.
Love how confident you are about the color choice.... have you asked Ava? Any sentence regarding interior should start with “Ava and I...” especially when every word is recorded for eternity :-) happy new year!
An idea for the health of your cervical spine, place the work monitor at the recommended ergonomic height, maybe with a monitor support with height adjustment to retact when you are not editing the videos. To look downwards continuously may cause you some crazy pain...
I would recommend making the vertical supports for the solar arch on the port and starboard sides of the boat a little wider at the base than at the top. I would also mount the second solar panel inboard of the first one. This would help to protect the helmsman from the elements to some small degree. It would also be easier to work on on the solar panels.. I like the idea of having the vertical supports slanted inboard as you suggested. I would also consider using some gussets to stiffen the assembly some. This is especially important if you are going to have dinghy davits on the solar arch.
I'd use the plastic cable management trays they use in control panels. They have snap on covers and sides are designed to snap out pieces every 1/4" where you need cables to enter / exit
video 3 hours long? YES PLEASE! LOL Love watching you fix up Athena and doing what you really love! another great video and as always keep up the great work and cant wait for next weeks video!
Suggestion: Slant the solar panels in such a way that you can catch rain water on them and bring it down to a catchment system of some kind. Also, be aware of wind load if you slant the panels. Why waste 4 square meters of rain? Oh... and.. Happy New Year to you as well.
Happy New Year, Mads. Rear arch; match fwd angle of arch to the dodger windscreen angle. Aft angle greater to taper to top. Broader base = stronger and visually pleasing.
Hi Mads, I would start with a thick plywood sheet epoxied to the inside of the hull behind the electric and instrument panel. On that you can screw whatever connectors and distributors you want. Like one for 0V and one for +12V. You can also screw on the AC box with switches and fuses or better, place the AC switches and cabling separate in a dedicated area.
Chart plotter. Build yourself a bracket and box for it that pivots on the stainless post on the nav station. That way you can have it above your monitor or if underway pivot it around so you can see it from the seating/galley or companionway steps. Just an idea.
Mads once hooked up think about some custom labels for the connectors and cables listed on a complete diagram of the network it will make future work on the network so much easier in the future once you have forgotten how you put everything together.
Hi Mads - Happy New Year. I am constantly amazed at just how much progress you are making each week. Interesting developments this week. For what it is worth (probably not very much) here are my comments: 1. Maybe consider moving the 240v panel to the technical area ( I assume that is where the generator will eventually go) to clear more valuable real estate at the Nav Station. 2. Maybe consider moving the plotter to the cockpit area. Again releasing real estate at the Nav Station. Most folks do the passage planning either on a PC with big screen (which you possess) or just as confidently on an iPad or similar. Hope this is helpful.😉 Keep up the great work.😀👍⛵️
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
We'd all watch a 3 hour video no problem. Don't hold back, just throw it out there.
Have you any idea how long the editing would take??
Or split it into several regular length videos.
@@nick.caffrey I suspect less by the percentage of footage.
Just a whole lot more time-lapse cuts.
You have my vote for a 3 hour episode.
That vacuum trick cracked me up! As a boat owner that has run my own NMEA 2000 wiring, I am blown away by that! That's about a million times easier than pulling through a messenger line the old fashioned way. Your videos make my day!
Hi Mads, as per usual, I love your work.
Pre warning to you and everyone reading this post, I am a armchair sailor that being said I am an Electronics engineer.
While getting ready for setting off one thing you might want to consider is integrity of your NMEA system. I would suggest buying a NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 converter.
There have been a few YT channels that have been struck by lightning and getting their complete NMEA network up and running again has been changing 1 NMEA 2000 product (that has been affected by the lightning strike) and using a converter plugging to it back into the network but using its NMEA 0183 port.
NMEA is just like canbus in cars, 1 faulty sensor / product can bring down the entire network. Fortunately for the Marine industry we still have both codes running simultaneously, so if lightning blows the 2000 side of say your chart plotter, if you are lucky the 0183 may not have been affected. Using 1 converter could bring back online your entire NMEA network.
Latest iteration of this I have seen was Parlay Revivals. 1 converter supplied by a fellow sailor restored his entire system and it makes sense. In this era of conversion between the 2 standards it is cheaper for manufacturers to supply both NMEA inputs / standards into a product than manufacturing 2 of the same product that meets either standard. Fortunately each plug has its own supply board so if one gets taken out, the main system may still be intact and chances are that the other plugs supply board is unaffected.
$70ish converter vs replacing say a chart plotter and getting your entire network back on track. I'd say was a cheap repair. Plus if you never have to use it, you could be a hero to a fellow sailor that has been unfortunate enough to be struck by lightning and only had the 2000 side of an instrument affect their entire instrument cluster.
Happiness is not the finished sailboat. It's the journey to it ...... the next voyage can just as easily be a new project .....?
Everyone wants a three hour video!!
"Salami" gloves are the best! Awesome video as usual. 3 hour episode in the world of lockdown. Bring it Mads!
I would watch a 3 hour vid just tell me when and I’ll get popcorn and drinks ready 😂
Two suggestions for the arch:
1. Athwartship rigidity will be one of your challenges. On my boat I integrated the arch into the pushpit resulting in a very rigid structure.
2. For both aesthetics and structure I would keep the overall height to a minimum. On my boat the solar panels are about 6 inches above the bimini. Looks pleasing to the eye and reduces moments of force caused by the wind.
I too am freezing my balls off shooting my sailing channel! Don't forget! 3 more months and it will start to get warm and all this hard work will pay off!! Great video!!
I'd keep those solar panels down near boom height. Cleaning, servicing, windage during windy mooring maneuvers, etc., will all come into play sooner or later. Make it easy on yourself.
It looks a little high to me as well but remember he needs to duck under the boom (see 4:26) and access on and off of the boat is under these panels. Perhaps mounting the panels so that one side of the mount can be released and then tilted on the other side could help.
@@rickhicksedm I'm not sure if he'd be ducking under that boom while standing on the cockpit sole, but I'd prefer (if it was my boat) to be able to stand on the aft cockpit seats and be able to reach all of the solar panels and related hardware. No debate, just sayin".
I think he would then need a door in the transom, but you're right, it looks far to high!
If I was working on the edge of the boat I would have knocked at least half of those brackets into the water. Glad you had much more success!
Did he finally introduce himself? Went back 3 times but I'm still not sure. This was a highly anticipated moment for me.
The vacuum trip is probably the best boat work hack I've ever seen. Brilliant.
"Somewhat extensive refit"...
I mean it's like he rebuilt the entire boat. Understatement of the year so far...
Great explanation about why you paint the interior. Your video lighting is so nice and bright, I thought the finished wood would be the path you'd take but, now that it's painted, it is much brighter. Brighter be mo-bettuh. As you are well aware, the solar rig for the stern will be a sail in windy conditions so it will have to be over-engineered to survive Mother Nature. The last thing you want to see is your oh-so-glorious solar array saying goodbye to the sun before descending to Davey Jones locker. Maybe engineered wood for you kick rail? Weatherproof and no paint necessary. Great job Mads. Keep up the awesome work.
I would draw a complete wiring map including the NMEA network, it could be years before you need to mess with it again and having a map makes it a lot easier to find the routing and maybe the problem.
If watching years of Mads videos have taught me one thing, it's that Mads already have drawn schematics for everything.
@@Cabsorx true!
If I added my ideas, (a non electronics boat guy here) you'd be backing up, so, in the single breath I would say, put all that where your comfortable with it, user friendly is a good term here too; All ready for whatever your doing and excited for 2021's news and progress. Stay safe Mads, Happy 2021 and just know your getting it right anyway you do it.
I would totally watch a 3 hour video!
Watch those dangly bits. Love your choice of lighter color inside, it's very neat and bright.💛⛵⛵👍👍
You are the definition of an Extensive Refit.😁
Somewhat is quite the understatement.
You are going to want the chart plotter at eye level if at all possible. Also you could build a swinging arm for it to mount to, mount that arm on the back wall, and when not in use simply move it out of the way. That gives you more room for a bigger monitor and other items you will add later. Keep up the great work!
I'd consider running the NMEA network all the way to the main berth and mount a GMI 20 where you can see it from the comfort of your bed!
That's a cool idea :) All the data will also be available on any phone/iPad over a signal K gateway :)
I did just that with a B & G system (i.e. a multifunction display in the the main berth), so that I can quickly keep track of what is going on at the helm while on passage. It has been extremely helpful. Highly recommend that.
I was going to recommend the same thing. Its great on passage to see wind speed and such with a glance.
@@SailLife Also consider the Yacht Devices YDTD-20 instead of GMI 20 for such applications. A lot cheaper!
..... always surprised when I see that the interior screen can only be seen when sitting at the nav station ... never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans ..
Mads the only suggestion I would offer would be to consider mounting the chart plotter up higher in that panel; that way when you are seated in the nav station and focused on your 24 inch monitor doing work, when you want a quick look at the plotter your eyes can just shift to the left, not have to look down. Will also make it more visible from elsewhere in the saloon.
She is going to come together quickly now I think. Been here since very early on and am very excited for you and Ava.
You can never have too many Doo Hickies!
Panduit make a great wire way to help manage wire. I have used it for many years in industrial electrical cabinets... love the show keep up the good work.
PS I would also be willing to watch longer videos 👍
Put the breakers as high as possible so you won't bump into them while sitting there. Put the chart plotter on the pole so you can swing it around to any position and reach the controls on it without having to lean over the chart desk. This way one of you can still work in that spot while the other checks the chart. VHF position is good, perhaps put a second holder for the mic at the end of the chart table so you can quickly grab it, again without having to lean over the chart desk.
Agree with Dutchy's comment on the breakers. You have sailed enough to know what Sea State 4 feels like sitting at the chart table. With your shoulder size, it will be too easy to knock one of them during any transit or passage. If you put the chart plotter high on that panel, you may wish to add some sort of lexan or plexiglas cover for the switches (probably requiring you to inset the switch panel bits) so that they are protected from unintentional contact. Putting the chart plotter on the pole is a good idea, so long as you ensure it doesn't swing freely (you can sort of latch it while heeled) and it doesn't bang into people while manoeuvring. Enjoying watching you do this. You are as meticulous as I am and it pleases me to see good work being done.
@@MrEdgargravel AMEN! My wife likes to sit in front of the panel on our Catalina. Sailing along and I loose my instruments!
There is a ~10 inch space above the intended hole for the electronics. Put the switches there - high up where they are suitable to switch while you're standing on the way out to the cockpit.
🤔 putting the switch panels (3) up-high behind you in the Nav. station, would aleveate any possible accidental on/off position. And, free-up space... No need to make a cluttered hatch in your Nav.station area.
Nearest to the steps A/C then 24-volt then 12-volt panel.
A/C is best to turn off first, being the most dangerous.
As far as the tower is concerned, make sure you have easy access to the top to be able to wipe down your solar panels. You'd be amazed how often you must do this due to salt spray, bird droppings, and even dust in anchorages.
Love your idea of using the vacuum to pull the snake line through! Salami on the fingers sounds tasty. I light snack before starting the task. There is a swivel mount available that the chart plotter should fit it. Mounts to the bulkhead and can be positioned to be seen from any angle.
I had to hold my breath when I saw all your toe rail mounts sitting on the deck until one by one they were put away. Too many times have I put something down on the deck only to hear an unfortunate splash announce its disappearance.
For future reference I don't mind a video that is 3hrs long!!
Wow, what a bonus. I didn’t know this channel existed but found it via ‘sailing cadoah’ who mentioned you have the same yacht series. Love that you have nailed the audio as most you tubers suck at that. Look forward to new episodes and will go back and see some older ones. Happy new year.
Speaking as a machinist and millwright , NOT A BOAT GUY ,, I would think of adding a drop brace on each back leg of your upright solar supports , down the back of the boat to support the weight of the swinging dingy in a storm , I relise it may be hard to bolt though the hull near the rear corners of the hull , so that would have to be thought over as well , Best Regards John , Ontario Canada.
I fully agree. Due to the angle and the short distance of your two wooden substitutes for whatever may come. There will be big pressure on your deck joints. From only 100kg load on top it will result in over 500kg of force or more depending of the measures. If you have your final measurements you may calculate that very easy by yourself. www.easycalculation.com/physics/classical-physics/effort-force-calculator.php (lever law)
Mads, you one of the handiest people I have seen. Canvas work is expensive, I believe you can do it your self and save a bundle I have been teaching my self how to sew. Here is I list of how to videos on biminis, dogers, and extentions.
You forgot the list.
Love the draw line trick with the vacuum.
That Hoover trick was smart af
How have I not thought of that?
It works on an empty conduit. After that you should always have a string pre-threaded though. Then pull another string with your next cable and so on....
The vacuum trick is standard practice for anyone working in conduit. I agree with Bill, add a pull string , no conduit should ever be without one. It also greatly helps to pull all of the cables into a conduit at once. Subsequent pulls alway get tangled (wiring the mast).
that vacuum trick blew my mind!!
winches look fine adds character
also not against a three hour video, lover yer vids
Chart plotters at the nav. station but I would have a repeater at the helm, wireless or wired. Keep 240v cables in conduit, separate from data and LV. Switch panels want to be in separate areas in my view - 240v away from nav. station. There is lots of kit you could and probably will fit - a central horizontal dado/duct with equipment above and below i.e. 4G booster, Navtex, AIS, MOB alarm, DC-DC (24-12v?) converter, computer+drive storage, TV booster, DAB antennae booster, sockets and charging points. It's almost endless! Great video.
That's a sizable rear wing spoiler. 🤘
Yeah I was wondering why he didnt duplicate the angle off the front of the hard dodger. I think I would taper each of the two sides closer at the top and like Mads said, narrower the top too.
Nice electronic system Mads, and very convenient. However, Murphy had it right: if things can go wrong, they will. Soooo, in addition to the NMEA stuff, I strongly recommend that you have mechanical gauges (oil pressure, coolant temp and ammeter) on the engine and genset. Also a sight-tube or dip-stick on at least one fuel and one water tank.
Damn you got balls putting all those stainless toe rail things out on deck like that lol
the last time I heard of a 3 hour tour it turned into about 8 years on an island, with snotty rich people and a professor that could make a radio out a coconut and some palm leaves, but could not fix a hole in the boat, ---just kidding, keep up the good work, and Happy New Year,
rip dawn wells, way hotter than ginger imho
Put some kind of protective rail on the starboard and port side of the solar panels their full length... someone with a tall ladder, a long pole, etc walking down the dock is going to crack one othewise. the won't tell you either. Great video
Mads, as a HAM Radio operator, I would implore you to have the Radio matched to the Antenna. (The Standing Wave Ratio. SWR needs to be matched.)
You can have a Radio Tech, Shop or find a Local HAM radio operator.
It will extend the life of the Radio and also improve the performance.
I agree 100%, and that will optimize performance on transmitting and receiving - more than you can imagine, and as he said, extend the life of the radio. (ham radio operator since 1973, and electrical engineer here). It's the HUGE radio performance impact that is the biggest motivator for me.
I'd mount the monitor on a swivel up above the nav station so it can serve as an entertainment screen for the rest of the salon as well.
I would paint the back of the technical compartment with flame resistant paint before you mount electrical cables to it. You should also partition the AC and DC from each other. The AC should enter and exit the panel as close to one edge as possible so it doesn't overlap with the DC in any way.
That's a good thought. I'm sure tinned wire reduces the likelihood of fire, but safety like that is worth the effort.
@@TheJekyll400 Tinned wire is more flexible than solid strand, and more resistant to corrosion. The wire isn't the most likely thing to catch fire, the devices inside are. The flame resistant paint is to keep a device that has shorted out and melted from catching the back of the board on fire and spreading it to the wires.
But... we want a 3hr long video... 😢
But in all seriousness. How well will those solar panels hold up to a storm? It looks like there’s a pretty big overhang on the front and back.
my concern too; this is a big sail or do you wAnt to demont them on passage?
He should do a fridge like mechanism and rotate them 90° so their parallel with the transom. Then when they're needing more power or the sun is out they can flip the top panel up and over. When it's not in use, or the wind / sea is up they can flip it backup on top of the fixed panel and have more space.
This would be a 4m2 sail indeed some power in those
@@BrunoWiebelt
Yea I was wondering the same thing. But while they’re out and about it’s nice to have that extra power also. So I’m not sure they want to dismount them while they’re sailing. But... I’d be curious to hear what he’s got to say about it.
Ouff , those solar panels is a lot of windage high and far aft. It would definitely significantly impact sailing negatively and even be a hazard in really strong winds and big waves.
3 hours? Who is gonna complain. We all actually want 5-6 hours daily.
Sail Life >> Another great video as always, BUT I especially love the red fuzzy dice!
The panel with the switches should all be somewhere where you're least likely to accidentally switch them while sitting at the nav station. So a pie on the panel all in a row probably would make the best sense
the best cable running I've ever seen)))
Also Mads keep your DC and Ac panels separate as much as possible. You’ll thank me later.
Garmin is a great brand. See those build-in templates that just come standard.
I have had a simple bike GPS from Garmin for years, I don't want another. I had a Garmin car GPS for years, I didn't want another one, but then Waze arrived. :-)
I'm learning that they also, no doubt, make very good marine material. To remember if I ever own a sailing boat ;-)
While you are getting a spray hood you might consider a cockpit enclosure. One of the best things I ever purchased for my boat, give you that extra room on those cold rainy days and great for watching all the marina antics.
And you can add a heater to the cockpit too.
Biscuits really help for lining up edges :)
Chart plotter high on panel gets my vote
The vacuum cleaner cable run trick is awesome! The switch panel right next to your left elbow might lead to accidental switch flicking so maybe keep all switches up the top in a line? Plus you won’t have to reach down at a lower angle to flip switches. 😁
x2
Longer the better
I have a couple of comments concerning the mounting of your circuit breaker assemblies. The circuit breakers should be protected from accidentally being switched on or off. This should be considered a safety issue. This could be accomplished by mounting plexiglass covers over the breakers. These covers could be hinged and/or secured with Velcro to keep them in place but easily accessed. I would also consider mounting the entire assembly with a hinge that allows the panel to drop down for maintenance purposes. Some of the other folks have made similar comments and I agree with them. I really enjoy watching the work that you are doing on your boat. Keep up the good work.
not to mention its right below a window
As always mad you continue to amaze me with such a simple but ingenious way to run line across the boat with the vacuum cleaner and a paper towel connected to a piece of string. Genius. Now maybe you didn't think of that and you're just emulating someone else but either way I'm going to give you full credit for that idea because I can!
Continuing to follow your progress on the edge of my seat, you're somewhat extensive refit is the light of my Sunday afternoon. Can't wait to see what you come up with next. Oh and Happy New Year to you and your happy fiance.
Put the plotter on a multi-angle swivel/extension so you can pull it in front of you at the work station.
I thought the same thing, so you could see it from the salon too.
@@327365hp I would try to mount the swivel setup to be able to see it from the cockpit, nav station and saloon if possible.
That is a GENIUS way of getting cables through conduit - I'm about to do the same on a "somewhat extensive" (!) house referb and shall use the same technique!! Many thanks and very best wishes for 2021 from the UK.
You deserve all the best: May all your wishes come true in 2021! (from Antoni Kouzoupis Greece)
what an amazing trick with the vacuum cleaner! Never saw that before. Super
I enjoy your videos so much it seems like they only last 5 minutes
My only peice of advise, is to hinge the panel, so that it flips down, with enough cable length to allow it to do so. I can't tell you the amount of frustration I have had, working upside down, or have a panel swinging back and forth as the waves roll the boat around. Flipping it down is nice, as its like your working at a desk.
I’m concerned about the wind loading on those solar panels.
I feel that the transverse supports need to be further apart so that the panels don’t overhang them too much.
Also I feel that the structure would be stronger if the uprights are not parallel. I’d suggest that the front feet should be some way further forward.
Exactly what I wanted to comment. Furthermore, placing the feet further apart than the the top not only helpes strength, but also the looks imo!
Sorry Mads, these panels are so big, they will be ripped off in a storm. Imagine that during a big crossing.
@@martinsachs3837 Agree, the over hang forward and aft of the frame is way to much. I've got a 52 ft boat and 166cm long panels are a worry for me let alone 200cm. I'll be getting mine deisgned with Auto CAD to strength test it with varying wind conditions. I'll be going with 4x 180W 67cm wide 146cm long.
@@martinsachs3837 I would be worried about them in 50 knots or over, even if they were not ripped off. The sail area which would be presented when the boat is caught beam on, and rolls to (say) 30 degrees on a steep wave front, plus another 30 degrees of heel due to the mast and storm sails, is enough that it would (in my estimation) not only add to the heel (which is not good when you're already closer to flat than to upright), but because it's so far aft, add hugely to the already problematic tendency to round up into the wind.
If what you need to be doing is to bear away, to maintain speed and hence control (maybe to take avoiding action from a bigger wave, or to line up with a narrow pass or channel) then these solar arrays could conceivably put the boat at risk.
Large, raised *horizontal* surfaces are a liability out of proportion to their size, because unlike sails (which are large raised *vertical* surfaces) their projected area INCREASES as the boat heels.
Nice variety this week!
The cardboard solar panel was sure flying high... I'm sure you'll spread the base more for stability. triangles are strong
I don't know about a 3 hour video, but I be ok with 90 mins or so. Awesome regardless of the length. Happy New Year and looking forward to what 2021 brings.
I like your toe rail replacement. The boards make the boat look more old school. It also makes it look more piratey which always is a good thing :)
European man credited with "salami fingers " anti covid protocol. He was quoted saying, it sure beats epoxy fingers..... also "fast and the furious, sailboat drift" pre calling it as the next Vin diesel movie :P
this episode was packed with goodies, 22min is short, so yeah 1h-3h videos are warmly recommended and expected. and there is only 6 months left for enjoying your work...
Three hours, not a problem bring it on. Happy New year. :)
A wood worker's trick for the cracks at painted board seams and corners...a tiny amount of paintable caulk commonly used is DAP Alex White Painter's All-Purpose Acrylic Latex Caulk in the US. No fillet, just enough to fill the gap so the paint can span the gap.
May I suggest a miniature cable tray to keep all your wires neat and tidy. Great video, thanks and Happy New year, Mads.
Make sure to have sufficient separation between the DC and AC breakers.
I'd be ok with a 3 hour video!
YEP
Happy New Year Mads and Ava. Time flies when your doing boat chores :)
A 3 hour long video fine with us. Happy new year and good luck over the next 6months so exited for you.
Am New to the channel and am loving your attention to detail and logical process. You’re gonna have a super spiffy boat in a few months for sure!
That silicon heating Matt was a great investment!
Did not know such existed. I could use such a thing on the wings of my low wing aircraft to simply melt the ice off from under the wing covers instead of spending an hour scraping it away in prepping it for flight during winter. Engine heater heats the engine and now there is a possible way of easily clearing the ice off the wings.
Love how confident you are about the color choice.... have you asked Ava? Any sentence regarding interior should start with “Ava and I...” especially when every word is recorded for eternity :-) happy new year!
An idea for the health of your cervical spine, place the work monitor at the recommended ergonomic height, maybe with a monitor support with height adjustment to retact when you are not editing the videos. To look downwards continuously may cause you some crazy pain...
I would recommend making the vertical supports for the solar arch on the port and starboard sides of the boat a little wider at the base than at the top. I would also mount the second solar panel inboard of the first one. This would help to protect the helmsman from the elements to some small degree. It would also be easier to work on on the solar panels.. I like the idea of having the vertical supports slanted inboard as you suggested. I would also consider using some gussets to stiffen the assembly some. This is especially important if you are going to have dinghy davits on the solar arch.
It's a bit easier to pronounce is "knee ma" instead of saying NMEA everytime =) Love the vids as always!
I'd use the plastic cable management trays they use in control panels. They have snap on covers and sides are designed to snap out pieces every 1/4" where you need cables to enter / exit
Happy new year, Mads. Looking forward to some exciting progress on Athena in the next six months, and then, untie those lines!
video 3 hours long? YES PLEASE! LOL Love watching you fix up Athena and doing what you really love! another great video and as always keep up the great work and cant wait for next weeks video!
Suggestion: Slant the solar panels in such a way that you can catch rain water on them and bring it down to a catchment system of some kind. Also, be aware of wind load if you slant the panels. Why waste 4 square meters of rain? Oh... and.. Happy New Year to you as well.
Happy New Year, Mads. Rear arch; match fwd angle of arch to the dodger windscreen angle. Aft angle greater to taper to top. Broader base = stronger and visually pleasing.
Hi Mads, I would start with a thick plywood sheet epoxied to the inside of the hull behind the electric and instrument panel. On that you can screw whatever connectors and distributors you want. Like one for 0V and one for +12V. You can also screw on the AC box with switches and fuses or better, place the AC switches and cabling separate in a dedicated area.
Super Duper, Oh Glorious and Spiffy New Year to you too...Thank you for your hard work, look forward to next video..cheers ⛵
Chart plotter. Build yourself a bracket and box for it that pivots on the stainless post on the nav station. That way you can have it above your monitor or if underway pivot it around so you can see it from the seating/galley or companionway steps. Just an idea.
"a somewhat extensive refit." Every time I hear you say that I laugh, you practically built a brand new boat, and it's awesome.
I like varnished wood interiors, but you are 100% that white paint "brightens up" the interior.
Brilliant idea building that 1:1 arc mock up !
Hi happy new year from the UK 🇬🇧 thanks for all your great tutorials can't wait to see you untie the lines. Bob. 🥂 🥂
Great videos, found your channel about a week ago and I have seen every single video of this refit project.
Mads once hooked up think about some custom labels for the connectors and cables listed on a complete diagram of the network it will make future work on the network so much easier in the future once you have forgotten how you put everything together.
Hi Mads - Happy New Year. I am constantly amazed at just how much progress you are making each week. Interesting developments this week. For what it is worth (probably not very much) here are my comments:
1. Maybe consider moving the 240v panel to the technical area ( I assume that is where the generator will eventually go) to clear more valuable real estate at the Nav Station.
2. Maybe consider moving the plotter to the cockpit area. Again releasing real estate at the Nav Station. Most folks do the passage planning either on a PC with big screen (which you possess) or just as confidently on an iPad or similar.
Hope this is helpful.😉
Keep up the great work.😀👍⛵️