Great informative video Will. As always your videos are a joy to watch, you explain things in good detail filling in all the blanks, and any questions people may have.No wonder you have some many subscribers.A pleasure to watch,a joy to see your sets in action, and better still always a joy to know when you're up-loading a new one.
Now that was informative.. Having GWR outline stuff with a range of tension couplers. I regularly have issues with them derailing wagons when shunting over 2nd radius points. Or not un-coupling properly over the uncoupling mounds (or what ever they are called). This short video has really help clear a few things up.
I enjoyed your video very much I am 64 yeas old and after a 40 year break from model railways i have returned to build an L.M.S oo gauge layout in my garage.It goes to show that you are never to old to restart in this great hpbby of ours. I am in the process of converting all my rolling stock to Kadee NEM plug-in couplers and also "Whisker" couplers. On the whole, converting NEM rolling stock is quite easy, but converting non NEM rolling stock i have found to be quite challenging. Martin Guyat
Very interesting ... but I am so glad we have standard "Knuckle Couplers" in this country. This is what the Kadee Couplers are based on ... thank goodness! Cheers!
When I first started in this hobby about 3 years ago & a bit green on what was what, I ended up with a hole bunch of rolling stock with every variation of coupler know to mankind. With a bit of research I decided to bite the bullet & convert all stock to the Kadee type couplers. Its taken a while at some expense, but I have found the challenge rewarding & the results of better coupling performance worthwhile. In the process I have also swapped all my plastic wheeled rolling stock to Intermountain metal wheels. That upgrade has also been worthwhile. If you convert your stock over time the expense side of it is not so painful.
@coolibahrail thanks, yes I realise that but in the UK when people switch to knuckle couplers, 9 times out of 10 it's Kadee couplers they switch to. (most people simply stick with tension locks)
great video my friend. once someone explains it to you and shows you the various types of couplings, its actually very simple. its definatley made me understand the different types and what the are for. many thans
Here in the US it's pretty much only Kadee couplers and knock-offs, though there's plenty of stuff floating around with ancient "horn-hook" couplers that were used before - though nowadays if you wind up with them, the first thing anyone does is toss them out and install Kadees. (Railroad couplers in the US are actually standardized unlike what I saw traveling in Europe, which as far as I can tell was "anything goes". Also, Kadee couplers may look very odd to a lot of the world, but they're very accurate to the ubiquitous North American Knuckle Coupler.) You're also far better off with actual Kadee couplers as well, any other cheaper knuckle couplers I've come across tend to fail (usually because they're plastic, while actual Kadees are metal) and are just generally asking for trouble. In my experience, Bachmann's EZ-Mate and Accurail's Accu-mate couplers are some of the worst offenders. I run long trains, and I've had those plastic EZ-Mate couplers straight-up break trying to pull trains. The Accu-mate couplers just tend to come uncoupled when you don't want them to and aren't reliable. One other interesting thing I've heard is that Bachmann stuff in Europe is actually decent quality. Is that true? Because the vast majority of what the sell in the US market is almost universally considered complete and utter garbage over here, I know a hobby shop that actually refuses to sell their stuff because of the quality.
Wow!!! You guys have a whole bunch of different couplers on your side of the pond. In the US we pretty much only deal with Knuckle couplers and the X2F Horn Hook couplers (Usually swapped out as soon as possible for Kadee (or similar) Knuckles).
As a kid. I nailed my tracks into a cork base. Otherwise, The track would slide apart at full speed. That was a long time ago (1980's) and they probably make better rail connections by now. Miss my old train set. It was impressive back then. Enjoyed the video.
@hornbytrains125 Those couplings are graded for (like many locos from Hornby & Bachmann & even Dapol) for Radius 2 curves. I had a 56xx & I found it was very happy on 2nd radius. It's just the way the locos & the couplings work
FYI, you spoke about magnets under track to operate Kadee couplings, but you can very easily and cheaply modify the humble tension lock coupler to also use under track magnet uncoupling. Look up what has become known as the 'Kirby Uncoupler', non-ferrous hooks available from PH Designs. Hope someone finds that useful.
I have done some of the coupler swapping myself. It would depend on how the horn hook is attached. If it has a small pin sized hole you can get through Walthers some knuckles to switch out with. If it has the larger hole you can get knuckles from Bachmann or use Kadee #5 couplers.
About the Kadee coupler, The reason they have their taken shape is because they are used in the continent of North America, and Australia. So they have accurate coupling shapes. However, your Dash-8 has Bachmann E-Z mate knuckle (true name for Kadee, which is a company name) couplers/couplings that follow the NMRA (National Model Railroading Association {Of north America}) but don't worry, they have nearly the same standards of the NEM. Respond. From, Trainmaster909
Can't remember what make my first train set was but it wasn't Triang - Hornby, however it was fitted with buckeye couplings - as we say in the UK. Around the mid 1960s.
@CavanRail001 thank you for the feedback! I shall do my best to keep the vids coming. It's hard sometimes - I can get pretty busy. But at least some people are patient!
@hornbytrains125 Because if you look carefully, you will see that the coupling overlaps, locks, then proceeds to derail the train. Either you can go for the less ugly option and put Bachmann tension locks on all stock, or the ugly one, and go for Hornby couplings on the Bachmann model, they're interchangeable.
In the days before propriety couplings modellers just "wired" their DMU / EMU ? coach rakes together using homebrew brass wire hooks and loops to achieve very close coupling. You missed out 3 link / screw link (prototypical) that is commonplace on a large number of 00 / P4 / EM layouts where the sight of any unrealistic massive tension lock coupling is seen as detracting from the visual effect. And don't forget "Sprat and Winkle" descrete automatic couplings for those railway modellers who find 3 link couplings going a tad to far for realism. To us older railway modellers the tension lock couplings are still refered to as Airfix (small), Mainline / Bachmann (medium) and Triang Mark.3. or simply Triang (large).
For what you call the Kadee coupler it is actually called Kadee as it is a brand of knukle couplers. The one you showed in the video is called the McHenery coupler.
@MysteriousKiwi Last year I did a video stating that videos on my new layout would start this Spring - and this Spring it will be. I'm in no rush - this is the hobby of a lifetime! :P
The medium tension locks on the Bachmann Thomas range are good. Knuckle/buckeye couplers (of which there are makers other than Kadee) are only good-looking on American-outline stock tbh. They're what you'd see on them IRL, which is why the Tri-Ang models of American stock have those dummy knuckle couplers. Tension-lock couplings aren't realistic, but they're reliable and less fiddly than the realistic-looking H & N or Spratt & Winkle type of coupling. At the small size of HO/OO models, they're also much more reliable and durable than buckeye couplings. And with the Kirby method they can even be magnetically uncoupled.
For more realism, I do recomend converting all couplings to KDs, because I have the new flying Scotsman and I wanted to run her with some of my Australian Rollingstock to replicate Aus Steam 88' in a way. So opa few weekends and all 14 of my british locos, all 35 coaches and all 67 wagons that were British in my collection were converted to KDs. Just thought I'd share that.
@JACKRAIL37001 using Photoshop, the drawings were clear and crisp enough for its smart select tool to isolate each sketch, and then the white background was replaced with the IC82 trademark blue.
Nice video!...just out of curiosity, why does the ES44 there have LMS on the side? does LMS actually have GE locomotives or is it just a love for LMS? looks like it was Conrail 8098 NS heritage unit?
Funnily enough, the Pacer proprietary coupling is the same as on either end of the APT power car. I actually ran the Pacer with the APT power car in the middle once. It was pretty funny looking. (My Pacer is the older version with two driving cars)
I am wanting to change my mk3 carriage couplings ( specifically the royal coaches and virgin coaches ) they have a slot for changing couplings but I can't seem to find any slimmer couplings that will fit
that's correct, "KD" couplers are a brand of couplers of the "knuckle" type couplers used mainly in north America. now there are also other types such as the horrible "horn hook" couplers which nobody likes but they are very cheap. I myself am switching over to the "sergeant engineering" brand of knuckle couplers, these are by far the most realistic knuckle ones with looks and operation being the same as its real life counterpart.
@Whizzer1 in the UK, when people switch to 'knuckle couplers', 9 times out of 10 it's Kadees they go for. I tried to trim the video down to just what the British modeller needs to know.
@thetrainkid1 I did research 3link/hook&chain couplings but as they're not 'automatic' and have to be manually coupled and uncoupled I felt them being in the video wasn't really necessary. Indeed many people do use them but they're no where near as common as the automatic couplings I look at in the video.
Another excellent vid Will....& another great idea to video too. I have loco's with all the couplings you mentioned & used drawings as examples....I can send you some real photos should you wish? Kind regards, John.
You can change the coupling types from tension lock to kadee for example, but it could be expensive. You're looking at around £2 per loco to change them over. Then there isn't any guarantee that the rolling stock that you have is NEM compliant.
Hi, Your video was very helpful in understanding about couplings. I have a Hornby Frederick Harrison Steam Locomotive, but iam unable to fix the Hornby close coupling to the rear side, would appreciate if you could tell me how to fix if possible.
They're OK to be honest. Great if you leave the train on the layout 24/7 - not so great if you need to keep taking it off at the end of a session. The biggest problem is if they get damaged. It often means a call to Bachmann for a replacement!
I have had problems with couplings. A small tention lock coulping on a Bachmann 56xx and again small tention lock couplings on Hornby coachs, they derail all the time on standard radius 1 curves. Why?
Have you seen the Hornby international Schanferberg couplers, there a working 00 gauge version of multiple unit couplings that look ver realistic, you may hve seen them on dapols class 156 and 153 in N-gauge, its really the same principle
When it comes to the tension lock couplings, I only feel comfortable using Large or Medium. The small ones really bother me because they have always derailed my trains. They may look nicer, but my layouts have always had trouble with them, even if the bends aren't that sharp.
nutfield001 I don't know, my old layout was pulled up so I could rebuild it somewhere else. The outer "main line" bends weren't particularly sharp (4-6-2s could travel along it without issue), but sharp enough to cause problems with narrow couplings.
1. You forgot the generic European NEM 360 coupler, which thanks to Lima, became the defacto Australian standard coupler for a few years until knuckle couplers started to catch on. 2. Roco is pronounced "Roe-coe", not "Rocko". 3. The main reason I found for proprietary couplers on DMUs and trains like the APT is so you don't go coupling, say, a DMU trailer to any other loco or rollingstock, but keep it coupled to the train it belongs to. Otherwise, keep up the good work.
Nice video Will. When you said the Kadee couplers were "fiddly" are you trying to unhook them without a magnet? The kadee are designed to be unhooked using magnets in a similar manner as to how you would unhook a real locomotive. I believe they sell something that allows you to slowly unhook them as well for a more realistic feel. Most people just convert locos and rolling stock that would connect to the locos. Converting everything is cost prohibitive :)
An example to all of us as to how a TH-cam vid should be made/edited. Well done.
Great informative video Will. As always your videos are a joy to watch, you explain things in good detail filling in all the blanks, and any questions people may have.No wonder you have some many subscribers.A pleasure to watch,a joy to see your sets in action, and better still always a joy to know when you're up-loading a new one.
Now that was informative..
Having GWR outline stuff with a range of tension couplers. I regularly have issues with them derailing wagons when shunting over 2nd radius points. Or not un-coupling properly over the uncoupling mounds (or what ever they are called). This short video has really help clear a few things up.
A very well presented fantastic documentrry showing couplers - well done
Great video, very informative and certainly answered all my questions. Thank you.
Excellent video, very informative and well shot. Also pleasant tone. Thanks
I enjoyed your video very much
I am 64 yeas old and after a 40 year break from model railways i have returned to build an L.M.S oo gauge layout in my garage.It goes to show that you are never to old to restart in this great hpbby of ours.
I am in the process of converting all my rolling stock to Kadee NEM plug-in couplers and also "Whisker" couplers.
On the whole, converting NEM rolling stock is quite easy, but converting non NEM rolling stock i have found to be quite challenging.
Martin Guyat
Very interesting ... but I am so glad we have standard "Knuckle Couplers" in this country. This is what the Kadee Couplers are based on ... thank goodness! Cheers!
Great video! Great to know some more stuff about couplings despite thinking I knew a lot already
Nice! Very informative, and nice to see you got some suitable stock for the Dash 8
Very well presented Will. Good job :)
This is a very good information clip. well done. do more as it is use full for new and beginner to our hobby. well done again.
@MrBrit4l it sure is!! A very keen eye you have! Strong in you the force is!
When I first started in this hobby about 3 years ago & a bit green on what was what, I ended up with a hole bunch of rolling stock with every variation of coupler know to mankind. With a bit of research I decided to bite the bullet & convert all stock to the Kadee type couplers. Its taken a while at some expense, but I have found the challenge rewarding & the results of better coupling performance worthwhile.
In the process I have also swapped all my plastic wheeled rolling stock to Intermountain metal wheels. That upgrade has also been worthwhile. If you convert your stock over time the expense side of it is not so painful.
Excellent explanation many thanks!
thanks for the kind comment!
@coolibahrail thanks, yes I realise that but in the UK when people switch to knuckle couplers, 9 times out of 10 it's Kadee couplers they switch to. (most people simply stick with tension locks)
great video my friend.
once someone explains it to you and shows you the various types of couplings, its actually very simple.
its definatley made me understand the different types and what the are for.
many thans
Here in the US it's pretty much only Kadee couplers and knock-offs, though there's plenty of stuff floating around with ancient "horn-hook" couplers that were used before - though nowadays if you wind up with them, the first thing anyone does is toss them out and install Kadees. (Railroad couplers in the US are actually standardized unlike what I saw traveling in Europe, which as far as I can tell was "anything goes". Also, Kadee couplers may look very odd to a lot of the world, but they're very accurate to the ubiquitous North American Knuckle Coupler.) You're also far better off with actual Kadee couplers as well, any other cheaper knuckle couplers I've come across tend to fail (usually because they're plastic, while actual Kadees are metal) and are just generally asking for trouble.
In my experience, Bachmann's EZ-Mate and Accurail's Accu-mate couplers are some of the worst offenders. I run long trains, and I've had those plastic EZ-Mate couplers straight-up break trying to pull trains. The Accu-mate couplers just tend to come uncoupled when you don't want them to and aren't reliable.
One other interesting thing I've heard is that Bachmann stuff in Europe is actually decent quality. Is that true? Because the vast majority of what the sell in the US market is almost universally considered complete and utter garbage over here, I know a hobby shop that actually refuses to sell their stuff because of the quality.
Wow!!! You guys have a whole bunch of different couplers on your side of the pond. In the US we pretty much only deal with Knuckle couplers and the X2F Horn Hook couplers (Usually swapped out as soon as possible for Kadee (or similar) Knuckles).
I must say this is one of your best :-)
dgilbert222 t
As a kid. I nailed my tracks into a cork base. Otherwise, The track would slide apart at full speed. That was a long time ago (1980's) and they probably make better rail connections by now. Miss my old train set. It was impressive back then. Enjoyed the video.
@benjokazooie thanks for the feedback! And you're welcome!
@ClassA4Mallard thank you for the feedback!
@NewChannels thanks for the comment! Yes, the new layout uses cork underlay. Definitely better than the foam stuff I think.
Excellent vid! Showing & explaining some great info there! =)
@ReyoNeutra thanks for the feedback!
@hornbytrains125 Those couplings are graded for (like many locos from Hornby & Bachmann & even Dapol) for Radius 2 curves. I had a 56xx & I found it was very happy on 2nd radius. It's just the way the locos & the couplings work
5:30 Looks very much like my Marklin ICE 2 type couplers. Jolly good show mate :)
FYI, you spoke about magnets under track to operate Kadee couplings, but you can very easily and cheaply modify the humble tension lock coupler to also use under track magnet uncoupling. Look up what has become known as the 'Kirby Uncoupler', non-ferrous hooks available from PH Designs.
Hope someone finds that useful.
Great video
@BulletAchemist spot on!
I have done some of the coupler swapping myself. It would depend on how the horn hook is attached. If it has a small pin sized hole you can get through Walthers some knuckles to switch out with. If it has the larger hole you can get knuckles from Bachmann or use Kadee #5 couplers.
the couples are actually called knuckle couplers that are made by kadee. Other brands make them it’s just Kadee’s are the best for them being metal
@Trainmaster909 that's true but when people in the UK switch to that type of coupler, in 99% of cases it is the Kadee they switch to.
About the Kadee coupler, The reason they have their taken shape is because they are used in the continent of North America, and Australia. So they have accurate coupling shapes. However, your Dash-8 has Bachmann E-Z mate knuckle (true name for Kadee, which is a company name) couplers/couplings that follow the NMRA (National Model Railroading Association {Of north America}) but don't worry, they have nearly the same standards of the NEM. Respond.
From,
Trainmaster909
Can't remember what make my first train set was but it wasn't Triang - Hornby, however it was fitted with buckeye couplings - as we say in the UK. Around the mid 1960s.
@CavanRail001 thank you for the feedback! I shall do my best to keep the vids coming. It's hard sometimes - I can get pretty busy. But at least some people are patient!
@jasonandjoesrailway thanks for the comment! I must admit it did take some time to make haha
@hornbytrains125 Because if you look carefully, you will see that the coupling overlaps, locks, then proceeds to derail the train. Either you can go for the less ugly option and put Bachmann tension locks on all stock, or the ugly one, and go for Hornby couplings on the Bachmann model, they're interchangeable.
As I type this i'm off school ill, but you just gave a great lesson there:) i'm subscribing, well done!!:)
In the days before propriety couplings modellers just "wired" their DMU / EMU ? coach rakes together using homebrew brass wire hooks and loops to achieve very close coupling.
You missed out 3 link / screw link (prototypical) that is commonplace on a large number of 00 / P4 / EM layouts where the sight of any unrealistic massive tension lock coupling is seen as detracting from the visual effect.
And don't forget "Sprat and Winkle" descrete automatic couplings for those railway modellers who find 3 link couplings going a tad to far for realism.
To us older railway modellers the tension lock couplings are still refered to as Airfix (small), Mainline / Bachmann (medium) and Triang Mark.3. or simply Triang (large).
@trainscrazy thanks Jake!
Brilliant quote in there - "That's the great thing about standards...there's lots of them!"
@traindriver1225 that's true but when people in the UK switch to that type of coupler, in 99% of cases it is the Kadee they switch to.
For what you call the Kadee coupler it is actually called Kadee as it is a brand of knukle couplers. The one you showed in the video is called the McHenery coupler.
@lukianzio lol thanks for the comment!
@panniertankboy8751 Indeed! I shall be doing a video on the American rolling stock soon.
@MysteriousKiwi Last year I did a video stating that videos on my new layout would start this Spring - and this Spring it will be. I'm in no rush - this is the hobby of a lifetime! :P
The medium tension locks on the Bachmann Thomas range are good.
Knuckle/buckeye couplers (of which there are makers other than Kadee) are only good-looking on American-outline stock tbh. They're what you'd see on them IRL, which is why the Tri-Ang models of American stock have those dummy knuckle couplers.
Tension-lock couplings aren't realistic, but they're reliable and less fiddly than the realistic-looking H & N or Spratt & Winkle type of coupling. At the small size of HO/OO models, they're also much more reliable and durable than buckeye couplings. And with the Kirby method they can even be magnetically uncoupled.
Great vid learned alot. Thank you
For more realism, I do recomend converting all couplings to KDs, because I have the new flying Scotsman and I wanted to run her with some of my Australian Rollingstock to replicate Aus Steam 88' in a way. So opa few weekends and all 14 of my british locos, all 35 coaches and all 67 wagons that were British in my collection were converted to KDs. Just thought I'd share that.
@JACKRAIL37001 using Photoshop, the drawings were clear and crisp enough for its smart select tool to isolate each sketch, and then the white background was replaced with the IC82 trademark blue.
@Trainmaster909 yeah they are the NMRA standard. they are also really nice couplers.
@Y2Jyr it looks lovely doesn't it!?! I think I will have to.
@toffie702 definitely! I got sent some wagons and have yet to do a video on them.
Nice video!...just out of curiosity, why does the ES44 there have LMS on the side? does LMS actually have GE locomotives or is it just a love for LMS? looks like it was Conrail 8098 NS heritage unit?
@agachocho you're welcome!
I got fedup with all the different couplers, so I solved the problem. I have made my own universal coupler called a piece of wire.
Funnily enough, the Pacer proprietary coupling is the same as on either end of the APT power car. I actually ran the Pacer with the APT power car in the middle once. It was pretty funny looking. (My Pacer is the older version with two driving cars)
Thank You IC 82
@BritishRailways60163 thank you my friend!
@MrJezza31 it was not an easy video to make! (as you can probably imagine) but thank you. I tried my best.
@minecraftchannel10 I sure do! Although I haven't played it in months.
I am wanting to change my mk3 carriage couplings ( specifically the royal coaches and virgin coaches ) they have a slot for changing couplings but I can't seem to find any slimmer couplings that will fit
that's correct, "KD" couplers are a brand of couplers of the "knuckle" type couplers used mainly in north America. now there are also other types such as the horrible "horn hook" couplers which nobody likes but they are very cheap. I myself am switching over to the "sergeant engineering" brand of knuckle couplers, these are by far the most realistic knuckle ones with looks and operation being the same as its real life counterpart.
@Bero12300 I got sent some actually! (and bought some too) So yeah I'll do a video on that.
using other peoples photos does not breach copyright when used in that way, unless you claim to have made it yourself or if you tried to sell it.
@JAC4468 that was actually a premium Class 8F by Hornby and its fake coal load is easily removed.
Nice vid lol I prefer the old Bach Ann ones because they hold the wagons close together
@Whizzer1 in the UK, when people switch to 'knuckle couplers', 9 times out of 10 it's Kadees they go for. I tried to trim the video down to just what the British modeller needs to know.
@thetrainkid1 I did research 3link/hook&chain couplings but as they're not 'automatic' and have to be manually coupled and uncoupled I felt them being in the video wasn't really necessary. Indeed many people do use them but they're no where near as common as the automatic couplings I look at in the video.
InterCity82 Aap
Another excellent vid Will....& another great idea to video too. I have loco's with all the couplings you mentioned & used drawings as examples....I can send you some real photos should you wish?
Kind regards, John.
@Lavapit2457 I have no plans to look at that set just yet but I'm sure someone else will do a review of it (if they haven't already done so)
You can change the coupling types from tension lock to kadee for example, but it could be expensive. You're looking at around £2 per loco to change them over. Then there isn't any guarantee that the rolling stock that you have is NEM compliant.
Thanks. Most interesting:-)
@wtierce1 that's true but when people in the UK switch to that type of coupler, in 99% of cases it is the Kadee they switch to.
Hello i have a question, can you put Marklin couplings on Marklin rolling stock?
Thanks in advance. TDMK
Hi, Your video was very helpful in understanding about couplings. I have a Hornby Frederick Harrison Steam Locomotive, but iam unable to fix the Hornby close coupling to the rear side, would appreciate if you could tell me how to fix if possible.
I just got a hornby pendolino helpe please ic82 can you uncouple and couple the train or when you couple it it has to stay like that
Honestly I just use custom 3-link couplings. They look alright and are really reliable.
Just FYI "Kadee" couplings are "knuckle" type couplings. Kadee is a brand name.
How old is the locomotive in question?
I looked today to remind me of the Pendolino, but you didn't show the " act of coupling/uncoupling these", which is what I wanted to check!
@EWSclass66 the IC82 website will reveal that when it goes live (planned for a big Easter launch)
They're OK to be honest. Great if you leave the train on the layout 24/7 - not so great if you need to keep taking it off at the end of a session. The biggest problem is if they get damaged. It often means a call to Bachmann for a replacement!
Kadee couplers are a brand of knuckle couplers.
I have had problems with couplings. A small tention lock coulping on a Bachmann 56xx and again small tention lock couplings on Hornby coachs, they derail all the time on standard radius 1 curves. Why?
You can get just the knuckle springs by themselves, but they are a bit fiddly to put back in.
Very intresting well done.Is the websiteup and running yet?
Have you seen the Hornby international Schanferberg couplers, there a working 00 gauge version of multiple unit couplings that look ver realistic, you may hve seen them on dapols class 156 and 153 in N-gauge, its really the same principle
When it comes to the tension lock couplings, I only feel comfortable using Large or Medium. The small ones really bother me because they have always derailed my trains. They may look nicer, but my layouts have always had trouble with them, even if the bends aren't that sharp.
What radius are your bends?
nutfield001 I don't know, my old layout was pulled up so I could rebuild it somewhere else. The outer "main line" bends weren't particularly sharp (4-6-2s could travel along it without issue), but sharp enough to cause problems with narrow couplings.
@hornbymasterjosh123 I sure do! He's ace :)
@DanielBurt217 lol good aren't they!?
great vid , could you do evan just a short clip of the american locomotive i fortgot the name now but of it running with its coaches or wagons?
will you do a review of the bachmann level crossing
1. You forgot the generic European NEM 360 coupler, which thanks to Lima, became the defacto Australian standard coupler for a few years until knuckle couplers started to catch on.
2. Roco is pronounced "Roe-coe", not "Rocko".
3. The main reason I found for proprietary couplers on DMUs and trains like the APT is so you don't go coupling, say, a DMU trailer to any other loco or rollingstock, but keep it coupled to the train it belongs to.
Otherwise, keep up the good work.
@1968concorde 10! yes, we need to keep things simple lol
@geezenstacks haha lol well it's true!
Nice video Will. When you said the Kadee couplers were "fiddly" are you trying to unhook them without a magnet? The kadee are designed to be unhooked using magnets in a similar manner as to how you would unhook a real locomotive. I believe they sell something that allows you to slowly unhook them as well for a more realistic feel. Most people just convert locos and rolling stock that would connect to the locos. Converting everything is cost prohibitive :)