Excellent video, sir! You've proven that a well-designed and well-built helix will not only serve its purpose, but also allow trains to run like a Swiss watch while running in the helix!
So much practical information! I especially liked the POV shot through the helix - that really showed things as they ought to be - and I can't think of a better way to understand the subtleties of the technique. Especially interesting was the maths that explains how much the curvature adds to the gradient. Essential viewing for anyone contemplating building a helix.
Love your videos and obtained large amounts of inspiration. After seeing this video have decided to add a second level to my layout by way of helix. One level from staging, one from base then the second level. Question how do you line up the rods to keep it all vertical. Do you cut levels stack on base then drill or what. Haven't been able to find information on doing this. Thank you
Thanks Alan. I'm actually putting a video together on how I make helixes because, like you, I haven't seen anyone else address issues such as these. It's not simply a case of stacking the loops and drilling holes vertically through them - that would result in skewed rods, because an inclined loop is actually longer than a level loop. That difference depends on helix radius and slope and can be accurately calculated using trigonometry (not necessary), or less accurately with a little trial and error. One way is to simply drill larger holes for the rods, but that method has limitations. A useful ball park estimate can be achieved by drawing a large scale (or full size) side elevation of a section of loop at the intended gradient between two vertical lines that represent the centre lines of the rods on the level base. If the diagram is accurate, the distance between the vertical lines when measured along the gradient will be close to the distance at which holes should be drilled on the loop (you need to do it for both the outer rods and the inner rods). To save lots and lots of measurements, I make a drilling template from a length of loop material. It has two pairs of holes the correct distance apart for the helix radius and gradient. Sorry this explanation is so long, but I hope you have a feel for what you need to do to get reasonably accurate hole locations in the loops. It's much easier to demonstrate than to explain. Cheers
Hi there, firstly can I say excellent work on your entire layout. The attention to detail involved with your track work and scenery is some of the best I've seen. Can I ask you what are the dimensions of your helix? I'm in the process of planning my ho layout in my spare bed room and like the way your helix can open up the idea of having two levels joined. My room size is only 3.3m X 3.8m not the largest space, but big enough for what I want. I to live in Australia ( Brisbane ) and can't wait to start making some of the aussie trees you show on your layout and how to videos.
Hello Tony. Thanks for your comments. You have plenty of room to build a helix with a reasonable radius and moderate slope. My layout is in a room 3m x 3.6m. The door is at the end of a long wall and the only windows are on the opposite long wall. The helix is at the opposite end of the wall with the door. It's diameter is 1500mm across the outer edges of the ply trackbed. The track is 725mm radius and the gradient is 1 in 55. Be sure to leave enough vertical room between each loop for track, the tallest rolling stock and your hand. Try for at least 90mm. 100mm is better. Best wishes with your layout planning and construction. Cheers
Fantastic helix tutorial, and especially important for me as I'm planning my first layout in a small bedroom, and I am hoping that I can create a double deck switching shelf layout, and the helix would also allow a mainline train to run thru a scene as well (-at least that's what I'm hoping). Question: The 1 in 55 ratio, is that in inches, or cm?
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you found it helpful. The 1 in 55 can be in either inches or cm, as long as you are consistent; ie a rise of 1 inch in 55 inches, or 1cm in 55 cm. Remember also that the rise is not a simple vertical measure but is measured in distance travelled. Best wishes with your helix. Cheers
It looks like your helix was very carefully constructed. I've watched a number of videos on model railroad helixes, and most of them were built sloppily, for example, in one case, to make holes for the threaded rods, the builder just eyeballed a spot and randomly plunged his drill through a thick stack of helix decks (not clamped in any way, and obviously at a slight angle) and I just cringed. The craftsman in me never, ever drills anything by eyeball, and whenever possible, I'll pre-drill any needed holes on a drill press in measured positions before assembly.
Thanks Gary. That's a video I hope never to see. I try to build helixes to the best of my ability because I want them to be trouble-free. As with all benchwork and trackwork, the care and attention taken during helix construction and track-laying is repaid in reliable running across time. It's not hard, and it takes little extra time to plan and construct one well. Cheers
have an idea, thinking how to do, where could i face problems? make a step by step worksheet, do calculations finally start building -REAL ENGINEERING, i'm impressed -some of the rods seem to be bent; is that just an illusion? -title reads Burrawon, is it Burrawong, NSW?
Many thanks. The 'bent' rods are an illusion. Burrawon is fictitious. It is inspired by a number of locations across NSW, originally by Oberon and Tarana but is not a replica of either. Cheers
Hard to beat that helix construction technique for adjustability and precision. Very well done!
Many thanks. Cheers
Excellent video, sir! You've proven that a well-designed and well-built helix will not only serve its purpose, but also allow trains to run like a Swiss watch while running in the helix!
Many thanks for the feedback. Cheers
So much practical information! I especially liked the POV shot through the helix - that really showed things as they ought to be - and I can't think of a better way to understand the subtleties of the technique. Especially interesting was the maths that explains how much the curvature adds to the gradient. Essential viewing for anyone contemplating building a helix.
Thanks for the feedback Derek. I pleased you found it informative. Cheers
love watching trains run in my 3 level helix. I think it just looks cool
I know what you mean. I enjoy it too. Cheers
Great technique and design. I appreciate the math as well.
Thank you! Cheers!
Love your videos and obtained large amounts of inspiration. After seeing this video have decided to add a second level to my layout by way of helix. One level from staging, one from base then the second level. Question how do you line up the rods to keep it all vertical. Do you cut levels stack on base then drill or what. Haven't been able to find information on doing this. Thank you
Thanks Alan. I'm actually putting a video together on how I make helixes because, like you, I haven't seen anyone else address issues such as these. It's not simply a case of stacking the loops and drilling holes vertically through them - that would result in skewed rods, because an inclined loop is actually longer than a level loop. That difference depends on helix radius and slope and can be accurately calculated using trigonometry (not necessary), or less accurately with a little trial and error. One way is to simply drill larger holes for the rods, but that method has limitations. A useful ball park estimate can be achieved by drawing a large scale (or full size) side elevation of a section of loop at the intended gradient between two vertical lines that represent the centre lines of the rods on the level base. If the diagram is accurate, the distance between the vertical lines when measured along the gradient will be close to the distance at which holes should be drilled on the loop (you need to do it for both the outer rods and the inner rods). To save lots and lots of measurements, I make a drilling template from a length of loop material. It has two pairs of holes the correct distance apart for the helix radius and gradient. Sorry this explanation is so long, but I hope you have a feel for what you need to do to get reasonably accurate hole locations in the loops. It's much easier to demonstrate than to explain. Cheers
@@burrawonbranchmodelrailway5886 Cant wait to see it. THANK YOU
Thanks for the great tips
It's good to hear you found it informative. Cheers
Hi there, firstly can I say excellent work on your entire layout. The attention to detail involved with your track work and scenery is some of the best I've seen. Can I ask you what are the dimensions of your helix? I'm in the process of planning my ho layout in my spare bed room and like the way your helix can open up the idea of having two levels joined. My room size is only 3.3m X 3.8m not the largest space, but big enough for what I want.
I to live in Australia ( Brisbane ) and can't wait to start making some of the aussie trees you show on your layout and how to videos.
Hello Tony. Thanks for your comments. You have plenty of room to build a helix with a reasonable radius and moderate slope. My layout is in a room 3m x 3.6m. The door is at the end of a long wall and the only windows are on the opposite long wall. The helix is at the opposite end of the wall with the door. It's diameter is 1500mm across the outer edges of the ply trackbed. The track is 725mm radius and the gradient is 1 in 55. Be sure to leave enough vertical room between each loop for track, the tallest rolling stock and your hand. Try for at least 90mm. 100mm is better. Best wishes with your layout planning and construction. Cheers
Fantastic helix tutorial, and especially important for me as I'm planning my first layout in a small bedroom, and I am hoping that I can create a double deck switching shelf layout, and the helix would also allow a mainline train to run thru a scene as well (-at least that's what I'm hoping).
Question: The 1 in 55 ratio, is that in inches, or cm?
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you found it helpful. The 1 in 55 can be in either inches or cm, as long as you are consistent; ie a rise of 1 inch in 55 inches, or 1cm in 55 cm. Remember also that the rise is not a simple vertical measure but is measured in distance travelled. Best wishes with your helix. Cheers
@@burrawonbranchmodelrailway5886 Appreciate the clarification, and well wishes for my future layout.
I have a 4 track n gauge helix with 7 turns 60 metres of track, no issues and never a derailment.
Wow. Congratulations.
It looks like your helix was very carefully constructed. I've watched a number of videos on model railroad helixes, and most of them were built sloppily, for example, in one case, to make holes for the threaded rods, the builder just eyeballed a spot and randomly plunged his drill through a thick stack of helix decks (not clamped in any way, and obviously at a slight angle) and I just cringed. The craftsman in me never, ever drills anything by eyeball, and whenever possible, I'll pre-drill any needed holes on a drill press in measured positions before assembly.
Thanks Gary. That's a video I hope never to see. I try to build helixes to the best of my ability because I want them to be trouble-free. As with all benchwork and trackwork, the care and attention taken during helix construction and track-laying is repaid in reliable running across time. It's not hard, and it takes little extra time to plan and construct one well. Cheers
have an idea, thinking how to do, where could i face problems?
make a step by step worksheet, do calculations
finally start building
-REAL ENGINEERING, i'm impressed
-some of the rods seem to be bent; is that just an illusion?
-title reads Burrawon, is it Burrawong, NSW?
Many thanks. The 'bent' rods are an illusion. Burrawon is fictitious. It is inspired by a number of locations across NSW, originally by Oberon and Tarana but is not a replica of either. Cheers
Nice video. Just hate the AI audio. What is wrong with a real human voice!
or captions.
anything but this weird ai shit please.
This looks like it would have been an interesting video, but the "AI" voice is too annoying to watch it. Why didn't you use your own voice?