So by making the power terminal on the switch, you are basically making two grounds? And by then making a loop!? Closing the circuit! Very impressed! I did it the harder way of running a new battery/ground switch and cutting the positive wire off the fan bypassing the temp switch. I think I'm going to change it to what you have! Thanks for the video bud!
Yes, this is a simpler way to go. Using the positive side requires a little more ingenuity and may require a relay for the switching. All that for what.. to have the LED light come on when you power it in.. lol. Ya I can do it but really wasnt worth it to me.. just supply the ground that the fan is looking for and call it a day.
Chemist, thank you for the vid , helps out alot. just got a 600rr and because is so hot in MIA the temp went up to 232 degrees, didnt think to hear the fan kicking in. Ill check today this will help in this MIa weather. Thank you .... BTW i like that panel you made simple and works perfectly. I like the way you can see your Battery digits. if you have a vid of thta let me know will want to do that one.
I have a 2003 Suzuki sv650 and I changed my two time and didn’t turn on. But you something that It caught my attention (check the temperature it supposed come on) Thanks got your videos….
Did you ever end up adding a second fan to the bike? I was looking at my bike but there's nowhere on the other side to bolt a second fan so not sure if it's possible.
I did but you have to remove the horn and the connector on the back of the fan and use spade connectors. If you don't the black connection almost touches the header.
Hey you might not know but you can get a lower temp sensor from suzuki, I believe it's for a quad I've use it with no problems. Part # 17680-50f00 it kicks on the fans around 200 and shuts off around 180
Thanks for sharing Sal. Ya Snitch racing sales one as well which i was going to showcase but just havent had the time. I believe the one that Snitch sells is from a honda if memory serves me correct but the connector ends are different and would require a pig tail or modification of the harness connector. The only problem i see with lowering the temp sensor is that the fan would be on most of the time and if youve ever rode with the fan constantly running you know that it adds extra heat to the rider at speeds past 50 mph. The fan sucking in air and pushing out the rear blades coupled with moving air of the higher speeds causes a venturi effect which is felt in the riding position. This was another reason why havent moved forward this mod.
No modification to pig tail or wiring harness since it's a suzuki part, plug and play my bike at 50 mph actually runs at about 175 degrees and I really don't fell the heat ,I've had the temp sensor for years with no problems
@@salvadornsanchez1091 awesome, im going to have check this out. Ya im not much into Frankensteining my bike harness, its a recipe for a bad day, glad u pointed out its plug and play.
The interesting point is which method you chose to get your ground connection to switch off with the ignition switch. Did you use a power distribution module or did you mount a relay and a fuse yourself?
John, thanks for stopping in and commenting, I totally agree with you. Some solder and high quality connector with shrink insulation should have been used. Infact I highly suggest it. I've been lucky with this T tap, I still have it on my bike today though I just may go back and revisit it now that you brought bit up. Keep the rubber side down brother and ride safe.
I guess im randomly asking but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost my password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Ellis Yahir thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
So what should i do with the other cable from the switch? You are just connect the ground cable to the ground? and the power cable? hmmm dont understand
There is no 12 volt power cable.. this is all ground. connect a wired to any ground location.. the whole bike and all its bolts are ground.. you can even get ground from the negative side of battery if you want if you feel more comfortable. this ground wire connects to the top leg of the switch as shown in the video (Non- Gold Side if your using same switch) The center leg of the switch connects to your T-tap at the fan. All your doing is providing ground to the fan.. it already has 12v from elsewhere.
@@TheChemistDIY Yeah my fan dosent work right now, but if i Connect it straight to the 12v battery it works, somebody had a switch on it before and the manual switch not working, and the fan does go on by it self either, so i try to fix it but i cant find why its not working 🤔🤔🤔 but i have a gsxr 750 2001 .. its the same with ground on both? Like in your video?
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Great bidgeo! What year is your bike? I have an 07 600 and I would LOVE to do this mod. I live in the I.E. (Inland Empire) in California and it gets up to 110+ basically all summer long. I ride my bike to work in Torrance everyday which is an 82 mile ride, But I want to keep my Blueberry cool while I'm still in the hot part of town haha! Would this be as simple on my year?
Prone Rider 562 Wow that a hell of a commute. IE, man you have u have to be Indian to live in that heat, lol, i use to work in Riverside. Im not to far from you im off the 60 and Hacienda. Will this work for your bike, well i cant say for sure but thats why i show you how to test it. On the more common sense side of things it wouldnt be smart of Suzuki to make this connection a Hot wire because ur dealing with two conducting factor.. Water and the fact that the Radiator is grounded, that would set u up for a real messed up day if you spilled RAD fluid and had an exposed wire. None the less test your wire like how showed in tje video and you should be good. My bike - K5 GSX-R750
So that's basically what the switch is doing. If you have done everything according to the video and your fan is not kicking on after moving the switch to the on position then you may have tapped into the wrong wire at the thermal conductor switch. Another problem is that you may have a bad fuse and the 12 volt wire (blue on the fan) is not receiving 12v voltage which is required to make the fan work. If all else is good then your fan motor is not working and to test you need to remove the fan and bench test it to insure this is the problem.
Haven't seen the spacing in a ninja. Odd that something would be in the opposite side fan location. About the only thing in this little area on most bikes is the Horn or on some GSXRS, the RR.
you can look at it that way if you want.. but ground can be found anywhere on the bike, it doesn't have to go directly to the battery terminal ground. It only matters that you are providing ground. So one end of the switch to the red T-Tap and the other end to a ground source. There are plenty of bolts on the bike to choose from. This helps reduce wire clutter.
@@emil_llantigua1191 if your switch has only two legs and not 3 like the one I used in the video.. well then your just adding one ground wire to the one leg of the switch.. and from the second leg to the the T-tap.. If you count the total number of grounds on this circuit well then ya, theres now two.. but your only installing one.. if that makes sense.
@@emil_llantigua1191 Make sure your taping into a good ground source, if you cant find one then run a lead from the negative terminal of the battery to your switch location. Second, make sure you are using the correct toggle switch on/off and not a momentary switch with will do what you are describing. Also make sure you have taped into the correct wire on the thermal conductor plug. You can test run the wire to your T-Tap by taping it to the ground frame bolt like i did in the video to see if it's not the switch giving you the issue . If the fac kicks on and stays on then you know the problem is the switch you are using.
If I'm not mistaken, I believe the 07 models are controlled by the ECM and don't use a thermal switch. If you had a thermal switch it would be mounted somewhere on the outer rails of the radiator (front or back) with two wires coming out.. not hard to miss. Google it to find out
Hi James, I have a dirt bike I use for enduro. Last weekend the bike fell and the fan stopped working, it is turned on automatically. I want to try to fix it myself before taking it to my mechanic. Im crossing fingers it is just a cable that unplugged but if it is not the case what should I look for in order to know what's wrong? My bike it's a Husaberg FE250 2014 4stroke. I hope you can give me an advice. thanks!!!!
What up brother, so most fans are like any electronic device. They require a power and ground. Only difference with a fan used in a cooling system is the switching because this has to be automated (turned on/off) at a certain temp, that's where the thermal conductor on the radiator comes into play. Most cooling fans have power (12v) always connected or constant.. the ground wire here is what is used to turn the fan on and off for the simple fact that we cant have water and 12v next to each other. If there was a leak then you would for sure get shocked. Simple enough right? If it were me, I would remove the fan and bench test it.. Find two wires and stick them into the connector of the fan and connect to your battery. If the fan come on then you know the fan is not the issue which leaves the bikes harness connection or the connection at thermal switch. To test the harness connector on the bike grab yourself a Digital Multimeter and place the positive lead to the fans connector on the harness and the negative lead to ground and turn your key switch one click.. no need to start the bike.. if your see 12 volts then your good.. if not the your need to trace back .. could be damaged connector plug, wire within, harness wires or even a bad fuse. Your also going to inspect the and test the ground wire at the thermal switch.. make sure it didnt get cut or pin got pulled out of the connector plug.. test everything with your meter and tone it out to insure you have good connections.
Nice video man. I have a 2011 gsxr 600 and I’ve tried this but I can’t get the fan to come on. I know the fans work and the fuse isn’t blown. The temp sensor is located on the back of the block. Any ideas? Is it possible that the newer models can’t do this?
If you did everything correctly, there's a chance that there is a computer conrolled fan. Perhaps the sensor reads an actual temperature, and the computer turns the fan on. This would make the sensor a thermistor instead of the thermoswitch. The computer would be looking for a voltage drop due to resistance going up as heat goes up, rather than a clean 12v signal to directly power the fan. Not definite, but something to keep an open mind on
i have cbr600rr, so not exact wiring situation. but, am i understanding this right? the positive of the switch will go to the fan relay ( i dont have a coolant temp sensor like your bike), and the negative of the switch has to be grounded to the bike frame or the negative of battery.
So I'm understanding you correctly, your not adding a second fan, you just want to manually control your current one. If so, this sounds correct. Also, you can have your ECM reprogrammed so that it kicks on at a different temp.. say 185 degrees vs. the 225. That would be the ideal way to go with no real modification. Us Gxxr folks have no other way but to modify, you have the option of either or #Justsaying
@@stasKZ Any time brother. As for the Links I don't have any for you at the moment. I just recently learned of this option myself. Since the Gxxr has no need for such I never knew that it could be done, but it wasn't till I started watching stunt riding did I learn of this.. Since stunt riding involves almost no real movement which means no air flow to cool the radiator and engine they need to have the fan kick on at a lower temp. Manual switch was the typical route but I did catch a video where one guy had mentioned reflashing the ECM to kick on the fan at 185 to keep the bike from overheating. Stunters bike of choice is the Kawasaki's, specifically the 636.. so this may help your TH-cam research. Youre going to want to watch videos where stunt riders talk about their mods, below is a clip of just that and Dank Wheelie is pretty well know in the stunting world.. maybe reach out to him. Hope this helps ya out, if you could do me a solid favor in return and subscribe I would greatly appreciate it.. th-cam.com/users/clipUgkxj1DwIzOAHuZ38xXQ8nkJo52XrdSVT9N1
Great video thanks ok im little confused so im going to add the second fan and as far as getting power for it we are using the power from original (first) fan just to make sure! so, use t tap to get power from first fan to second fan and then from second fan to one leg of switch and second leg of switch to ground source? Is that right?
does a manual switch for an extra fan drain the battery? I have an extra fan i bought to install as a manual since mine runs about 200-220 but i saw that it drains the battery. dont want to get stranded.
If connected correctly no. My DIY only adds the missing ground just like the thermo switch does when it hits 225 degrees, only were bypassing the thermo switch and giving the fan ground when we want.. that said, the fan always has the 12v current, just missing the ground.
hi I have a suzuki bandit 1250 from 2008 and the fan stopped working suddenly when running it warm in the garden, some coolant came out of the expansion tube which made me realize the fan didn't work anymore. Would you know what is the most probable cause? would the fan be broken and need to replace it or can it be like a fuse or something else?
Not sure if you have an individual fan fuse but fuse's are usually your fist go to when things stop 🛑 working so check those out. Secondly, while extremely rear but can happen, the thermal switch may have gone bad and needs replacing, remember this switches on the ground connection when the coolant hits a certain temperature giving the fan both + & - to complete the circuit to turn on the fan. Thirdly, the fan motor could be done, only way to test to make sure is unplug it and provide 12v to the terminal connection of the fan and see if it turns on. If it does then you know the problem is forward the fan connection.. ergo the thermal switch..if not the fuse's of course. Hope that helps
@@rickybarrett2854 Umm NO.. think of the two wires on the thermal switch as the same (ground). The thermal switch is basically your normal 2 pin on/off toggle switch feeding the same polarity (ground) before and after.. but the only difference with the thermal switch is were replacing the toggle activation for a heat temp setting of 225 degrees. When the switch is flipped on (225 Degrees reached), the ground connection from one black wire is allowed to pass through the thermal conductor to the other wire and reach the fan which already has 12v coming from the battery. Your just basically bypassing the thermal switch and giving the fan the ground connection it's waiting for to power on. so we only need one of those two thermal wires on the thermal switch.. the one closest or connected to the fan .. that will go into one leg of your manual toggle switch.. the remaining leg on your manual switch needs to be connected to ground.. make sense?
I'm a newbie so just please bare with me. I have a 2017 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 and it runs hot. That being said great video. Is there a way to install a lower temperature thermal switch say a 180 degree one instead of a 225 degree one this way the system will function automatically??
Yes there are other thermal sensors or lower activation point sensors you can purchase and install but finding one that has the same threading & connector is the hard part. I know for the k4/k5 there is one that is set to kick on at 190 degrees instead of the 225. But before you go out and do this you may want to look into a new thermostat. I havent put up the video yet but the reason why my bike was getting hot was do to a poorly working thermostat. While the bad thermostat did work, it wasnt working as it should, causing the bike to get really hot but never over heat. A new thermostat is a pretty cheap fix and is easy to install, only requiring 2 bolts to get to on the engine block. Don't be fooled there are only 2 main reasons why a bike or car would overheat, and that's a poorly working thermostat or thermal sensor. The others reasons could be poor airflow or bad/clogged Radiator. Hope that helps Here is the link for my lower temp sensor, see if they have one for your application, but try the new thermostat first. Suzuki Motorcycle Low Temp Radiator Fan Switch store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-low-temperature-radiator-fan-switch-suzuki-gsx1300r-hayabusa-99-07-gsxr1000-01-04-tl1000s-97-01-gsxr750-96-05-gsxr600-97-05/
T-taps you can pick up at any local automotive store as well as wiring. Speaker wiring will even work for most of this low voltage stuff, I just happen to have some leftover shielded 4 pair/22 awg laying around from my custom glow kit I made for the bike.
@@TheChemistDIY hi bro i have a yamaha Yzf-r125 my fan never kicks in and i get a warning light. Can i just buy a simple switch and a simple wire? Or do i really need the special adapters like yours?
@@TheChemistDIY so basicly i need to test if the fan works. If it does i need to find wich one ground is. And then connect ground with T tap. To the switch. But what about the positive??
Does the fuel/fan relay the same, to not cause the new thermo switch to come on? Tested the fan the harness the fuses 2 brand new thermo$ but won't kick the fan on fan works perfect? Itz a puzzle for sure?
Yeah, basically the fan positive lead wire became partially ungrounded? In return would cause the fan to come on and sometimes not to come on. That cheap puddy material that's on the black ground wire terminal and blue wire on the positive usually wares out over time. Saudered it doesn't work that well, just got another one.
That's an option as well. I think it's snitch racing who sells that the 190 kick on temp thermo conductor.. it's been discussed in the below comments. One additional benefit of dual fans over one is equal disbursement of engine heat to both sides of the bike and not just the right.. this is really noticeable at low speeds and dead stops.
Run a power lead from a constant 12v source To the top prong of the switch, the bottom coper prong should be connected to a constant ground, this will make the light turn on at this point. On the fan locate the positive side and run a wire to the center prong of the switch... done
Yeah, I can't speak for placement on other bikes as I'm mostly knowable on parts of the 04-05 GSXR. But like any other car for example.. one has to existband with that mentality you're able to work on pretty much any bike or car..
Not sure what you are asking, how much is what.. the fan, switch?.. fan can be purchased on eBay for what ever the thier selling for at the time. Switch.. $2-$3 bucks.
So by making the power terminal on the switch, you are basically making two grounds? And by then making a loop!? Closing the circuit! Very impressed! I did it the harder way of running a new battery/ground switch and cutting the positive wire off the fan bypassing the temp switch. I think I'm going to change it to what you have! Thanks for the video bud!
Yes, this is a simpler way to go. Using the positive side requires a little more ingenuity and may require a relay for the switching. All that for what.. to have the LED light come on when you power it in.. lol. Ya I can do it but really wasnt worth it to me.. just supply the ground that the fan is looking for and call it a day.
Chemist, thank you for the vid , helps out alot. just got a 600rr and because is so hot in MIA the temp went up to 232 degrees, didnt think to hear the fan kicking in. Ill check today this will help in this MIa weather. Thank you ....
BTW i like that panel you made simple and works perfectly. I like the way you can see your Battery digits. if you have a vid of thta let me know will want to do that one.
Great video thanks you
Going to put one on my firestorm for city riding& roadworks which can be a 15 minute or longer standstill in hot weather.
Appreciate the video, my TLR gets ridiculously hot in traffic and it gets unbearable. Gonna run this project, thanks.
Awesome 👍, you may also want to consider lowering the thickness of your engine oil in the warmer months if your able to..
Thank you so much! I have a sv650 that runs hot, Im in stop and go traffic alot it worries me seeing the temps get super high!
A thing of the past once you perform this mod.
I have a 2003 Suzuki sv650 and I changed my two time and didn’t turn on. But you something that It caught my attention (check the temperature it supposed come on) Thanks got your videos….
Yeah, the fan normal operating temperature kick on is going to be around 225 degrees. This mod will allow you to turn it on whenever you want.
@@TheChemistDIY Thanks 🙏
Did you ever end up adding a second fan to the bike?
I was looking at my bike but there's nowhere on the other side to bolt a second fan so not sure if it's possible.
I did but you have to remove the horn and the connector on the back of the fan and use spade connectors. If you don't the black connection almost touches the header.
@@TheChemistDIY just seen you have another video showing the secondary fan install imma check it out
Hey you might not know but you can get a lower temp sensor from suzuki, I believe it's for a quad I've use it with no problems. Part # 17680-50f00 it kicks on the fans around 200 and shuts off around 180
Thanks for sharing Sal. Ya Snitch racing sales one as well which i was going to showcase but just havent had the time. I believe the one that Snitch sells is from a honda if memory serves me correct but the connector ends are different and would require a pig tail or modification of the harness connector.
The only problem i see with lowering the temp sensor is that the fan would be on most of the time and if youve ever rode with the fan constantly running you know that it adds extra heat to the rider at speeds past 50 mph. The fan sucking in air and pushing out the rear blades coupled with moving air of the higher speeds causes a venturi effect which is felt in the riding position. This was another reason why havent moved forward this mod.
No modification to pig tail or wiring harness since it's a suzuki part, plug and play my bike at 50 mph actually runs at about 175 degrees and I really don't fell the heat ,I've had the temp sensor for years with no problems
@@salvadornsanchez1091 awesome, im going to have check this out. Ya im not much into Frankensteining my bike harness, its a recipe for a bad day, glad u pointed out its plug and play.
@Salvador N Sanchez do you think this part will fit into a GSXR1000 2005
Salvador N Sanchez hey I have a 05 gsxr and it runs really hot. What’s the name of this sensor?
The interesting point is which method you chose to get your ground connection to switch off with the ignition switch. Did you use a power distribution module or did you mount a relay and a fuse yourself?
Great little hack, but I never use those type of wire taps due to their high failure rate.
John, thanks for stopping in and commenting, I totally agree with you. Some solder and high quality connector with shrink insulation should have been used. Infact I highly suggest it. I've been lucky with this T tap, I still have it on my bike today though I just may go back and revisit it now that you brought bit up.
Keep the rubber side down brother and ride safe.
was on board until you showed the big ole switch panel you got now I'm confused..
If lost, just check out the comments section, I've pretty much covered every way possible to hook up a ground switch.
niece video the best you have two fans
Great explanation, thank you!!
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I was stupid lost my password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Sergio Dakota Instablaster :)
@Ellis Yahir thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Ellis Yahir It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
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when connecting to the ground wire with the T tap you dont have to expose the wires before connecting ?
That is the job of the T-Tap
Need too top off your coolant. But good vid mines by the ram tube.
I’m gonna do this but engine Ice helps alot. My bike without the fans running on highway runs it’s around 175-180
Good video. Thanks bro
So what should i do with the other cable from the switch? You are just connect the ground cable to the ground? and the power cable? hmmm dont understand
There is no 12 volt power cable.. this is all ground.
connect a wired to any ground location.. the whole bike and all its bolts are ground.. you can even get ground from the negative side of battery if you want if you feel more comfortable. this ground wire connects to the top leg of the switch as shown in the video (Non- Gold Side if your using same switch)
The center leg of the switch connects to your T-tap at the fan.
All your doing is providing ground to the fan.. it already has 12v from elsewhere.
Aahhhh i seeee!!! Nice thanks i should try this! 🤙
@@dinkelone yes!..its one mod that is a must have for the hot summer.. the duel fan mod too!
@@TheChemistDIY Yeah my fan dosent work right now, but if i Connect it straight to the 12v battery it works, somebody had a switch on it before and the manual switch not working, and the fan does go on by it self either, so i try to fix it but i cant find why its not working 🤔🤔🤔 but i have a gsxr 750 2001 .. its the same with ground on both? Like in your video?
Sweet vid! Do you have a link for the switch? Thanks!
Sure do brother,
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Fantastic
Great bidgeo! What year is your bike? I have an 07 600 and I would LOVE to do this mod. I live in the I.E. (Inland Empire) in California and it gets up to 110+ basically all summer long. I ride my bike to work in Torrance everyday which is an 82 mile ride, But I want to keep my Blueberry cool while I'm still in the hot part of town haha! Would this be as simple on my year?
Prone Rider 562 Wow that a hell of a commute. IE, man you have u have to be Indian to live in that heat, lol, i use to work in Riverside. Im not to far from you im off the 60 and Hacienda. Will this work for your bike, well i cant say for sure but thats why i show you how to test it. On the more common sense side of things it wouldnt be smart of Suzuki to make this connection a Hot wire because ur dealing with two conducting factor.. Water and the fact that the Radiator is grounded, that would set u up for a real messed up day if you spilled RAD fluid and had an exposed wire. None the less test your wire like how showed in tje video and you should be good. My bike - K5 GSX-R750
Have you done this mod? I have the same bike and I’m having problem with the fan!
What if you bridge the fan connctor an the fan doesn't turn on?
So that's basically what the switch is doing. If you have done everything according to the video and your fan is not kicking on after moving the switch to the on position then you may have tapped into the wrong wire at the thermal conductor switch. Another problem is that you may have a bad fuse and the 12 volt wire (blue on the fan) is not receiving 12v voltage which is required to make the fan work. If all else is good then your fan motor is not working and to test you need to remove the fan and bench test it to insure this is the problem.
I want to add an extra fan. But not much space in the 400 ninja. Any recommendations?
Thanx.
Subbed.
Haven't seen the spacing in a ninja. Odd that something would be in the opposite side fan location. About the only thing in this little area on most bikes is the Horn or on some GSXRS, the RR.
Great video. About to do this but just to make sure... the switch has one wire connect to t tap and one to the battery?
you can look at it that way if you want.. but ground can be found anywhere on the bike, it doesn't have to go directly to the battery terminal ground. It only matters that you are providing ground. So one end of the switch to the red T-Tap and the other end to a ground source. There are plenty of bolts on the bike to choose from. This helps reduce wire clutter.
@@TheChemistDIY good video james one question we gonna make two ground connections?
@@emil_llantigua1191 if your switch has only two legs and not 3 like the one I used in the video.. well then your just adding one ground wire to the one leg of the switch.. and from the second leg to the the T-tap..
If you count the total number of grounds on this circuit well then ya, theres now two.. but your only installing one.. if that makes sense.
@@TheChemistDIY yes,my switch only has two legs. But here is the problem when I make the two connections my fan just kick on and then shut off.
@@emil_llantigua1191 Make sure your taping into a good ground source, if you cant find one then run a lead from the negative terminal of the battery to your switch location. Second, make sure you are using the correct toggle switch on/off and not a momentary switch with will do what you are describing. Also make sure you have taped into the correct wire on the thermal conductor plug. You can test run the wire to your T-Tap by taping it to the ground frame bolt like i did in the video to see if it's not the switch giving you the issue . If the fac kicks on and stays on then you know the problem is the switch you are using.
I really want this to work on my 07 600 but idk where the thermal switch is on mine
If I'm not mistaken, I believe the 07 models are controlled by the ECM and don't use a thermal switch. If you had a thermal switch it would be mounted somewhere on the outer rails of the radiator (front or back) with two wires coming out.. not hard to miss. Google it to find out
Hi James, I have a dirt bike I use for enduro. Last weekend the bike fell and the fan stopped working, it is turned on automatically. I want to try to fix it myself before taking it to my mechanic. Im crossing fingers it is just a cable that unplugged but if it is not the case what should I look for in order to know what's wrong? My bike it's a Husaberg FE250 2014 4stroke. I hope you can give me an advice. thanks!!!!
What up brother, so most fans are like any electronic device. They require a power and ground. Only difference with a fan used in a cooling system is the switching because this has to be automated (turned on/off) at a certain temp, that's where the thermal conductor on the radiator comes into play.
Most cooling fans have power (12v) always connected or constant.. the ground wire here is what is used to turn the fan on and off for the simple fact that we cant have water and 12v next to each other. If there was a leak then you would for sure get shocked. Simple enough right?
If it were me, I would remove the fan and bench test it.. Find two wires and stick them into the connector of the fan and connect to your battery. If the fan come on then you know the fan is not the issue which leaves the bikes harness connection or the connection at thermal switch.
To test the harness connector on the bike grab yourself a Digital Multimeter and place the positive lead to the fans connector on the harness and the negative lead to ground and turn your key switch one click.. no need to start the bike.. if your see 12 volts then your good.. if not the your need to trace back .. could be damaged connector plug, wire within, harness wires or even a bad fuse.
Your also going to inspect the and test the ground wire at the thermal switch.. make sure it didnt get cut or pin got pulled out of the connector plug.. test everything with your meter and tone it out to insure you have good connections.
@@TheChemistDIY Awesome!! I'll make all the tests, if any other questions I'll ask you again, thank you very much 🙏
Nice video man. I have a 2011 gsxr 600 and I’ve tried this but I can’t get the fan to come on. I know the fans work and the fuse isn’t blown. The temp sensor is located on the back of the block. Any ideas? Is it possible that the newer models can’t do this?
If you did everything correctly, there's a chance that there is a computer conrolled fan. Perhaps the sensor reads an actual temperature, and the computer turns the fan on. This would make the sensor a thermistor instead of the thermoswitch. The computer would be looking for a voltage drop due to resistance going up as heat goes up, rather than a clean 12v signal to directly power the fan.
Not definite, but something to keep an open mind on
In that case you'd have to run it the "harder way" just need to grab your own power supply
i have cbr600rr, so not exact wiring situation. but, am i understanding this right? the positive of the switch will go to the fan relay ( i dont have a coolant temp sensor like your bike), and the negative of the switch has to be grounded to the bike frame or the negative of battery.
So I'm understanding you correctly, your not adding a second fan, you just want to manually control your current one. If so, this sounds correct. Also, you can have your ECM reprogrammed so that it kicks on at a different temp.. say 185 degrees vs. the 225. That would be the ideal way to go with no real modification. Us Gxxr folks have no other way but to modify, you have the option of either or #Justsaying
@@TheChemistDIY thank you for the reply! ill research the reprogramming part, i appreciate it!
@@TheChemistDIY also, if you have some links to share about the reprogramming id like that, i did a quick search and havent seen anything
@@stasKZ Any time brother. As for the Links I don't have any for you at the moment. I just recently learned of this option myself. Since the Gxxr has no need for such I never knew that it could be done, but it wasn't till I started watching stunt riding did I learn of this.. Since stunt riding involves almost no real movement which means no air flow to cool the radiator and engine they need to have the fan kick on at a lower temp. Manual switch was the typical route but I did catch a video where one guy had mentioned reflashing the ECM to kick on the fan at 185 to keep the bike from overheating. Stunters bike of choice is the Kawasaki's, specifically the 636.. so this may help your TH-cam research. Youre going to want to watch videos where stunt riders talk about their mods, below is a clip of just that and Dank Wheelie is pretty well know in the stunting world.. maybe reach out to him. Hope this helps ya out, if you could do me a solid favor in return and subscribe I would greatly appreciate it..
th-cam.com/users/clipUgkxj1DwIzOAHuZ38xXQ8nkJo52XrdSVT9N1
@@TheChemistDIY i appreciate your help!
Great video thanks ok im little confused so im going to add the second fan and as far as getting power for it we are using the power from original (first) fan just to make sure! so, use t tap to get power from first fan to second fan and then from second fan to one leg of switch and second leg of switch to ground source? Is that right?
Your right on the money 💰 Shahin..
@@TheChemistDIY thanks
Did you end up adding a second fan, how you supposed to mount it with nowhere to screw in?
does a manual switch for an extra fan drain the battery? I have an extra fan i bought to install as a manual since mine runs about 200-220 but i saw that it drains the battery. dont want to get stranded.
If connected correctly no. My DIY only adds the missing ground just like the thermo switch does when it hits 225 degrees, only were bypassing the thermo switch and giving the fan ground when we want.. that said, the fan always has the 12v current, just missing the ground.
hi I have a suzuki bandit 1250 from 2008 and the fan stopped working suddenly when running it warm in the garden, some coolant came out of the expansion tube which made me realize the fan didn't work anymore. Would you know what is the most probable cause? would the fan be broken and need to replace it or can it be like a fuse or something else?
Not sure if you have an individual fan fuse but fuse's are usually your fist go to when things stop 🛑 working so check those out.
Secondly, while extremely rear but can happen, the thermal switch may have gone bad and needs replacing, remember this switches on the ground connection when the coolant hits a certain temperature giving the fan both + & - to complete the circuit to turn on the fan.
Thirdly, the fan motor could be done, only way to test to make sure is unplug it and provide 12v to the terminal connection of the fan and see if it turns on. If it does then you know the problem is forward the fan connection.. ergo the thermal switch..if not the fuse's of course.
Hope that helps
@@TheChemistDIY Thanks a lot for the reply and good advice, I'll go check those.
Hi, can i not just t-tap into each wire from the thermo switch and run each wire to a 2 pin on/off toggle switch?
@@rickybarrett2854 Umm NO.. think of the two wires on the thermal switch as the same (ground). The thermal switch is basically your normal 2 pin on/off toggle switch feeding the same polarity (ground) before and after.. but the only difference with the thermal switch is were replacing the toggle activation for a heat temp setting of 225 degrees. When the switch is flipped on (225 Degrees reached), the ground connection from one black wire is allowed to pass through the thermal conductor to the other wire and reach the fan which already has 12v coming from the battery.
Your just basically bypassing the thermal switch and giving the fan the ground connection it's waiting for to power on. so we only need one of those two thermal wires on the thermal switch.. the one closest or connected to the fan .. that will go into one leg of your manual toggle switch.. the remaining leg on your manual switch needs to be connected to ground..
make sense?
Or maybe just two into each wire to a switch ?
213-220, i forgot America used fahrenheit for a second
I'm a newbie so just please bare with me. I have a 2017 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 and it runs hot. That being said great video. Is there a way to install a lower temperature thermal switch say a 180 degree one instead of a 225 degree one this way the system will function automatically??
Yes there are other thermal sensors or lower activation point sensors you can purchase and install but finding one that has the same threading & connector is the hard part. I know for the k4/k5 there is one that is set to kick on at 190 degrees instead of the 225.
But before you go out and do this you may want to look into a new thermostat. I havent put up the video yet but the reason why my bike was getting hot was do to a poorly working thermostat. While the bad thermostat did work, it wasnt working as it should, causing the bike to get really hot but never over heat. A new thermostat is a pretty cheap fix and is easy to install, only requiring 2 bolts to get to on the engine block. Don't be fooled there are only 2 main reasons why a bike or car would overheat, and that's a poorly working thermostat or thermal sensor. The others reasons could be poor airflow or bad/clogged Radiator. Hope that helps
Here is the link for my lower temp sensor, see if they have one for your application, but try the new thermostat first.
Suzuki Motorcycle Low Temp Radiator Fan Switch
store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-low-temperature-radiator-fan-switch-suzuki-gsx1300r-hayabusa-99-07-gsxr1000-01-04-tl1000s-97-01-gsxr750-96-05-gsxr600-97-05/
You can do some experiments by connecting 20 -50 ohms resistor in parallel to that coolant sensor.
Where is your power comming from ?
The fan connection on the main harness.. but you never need to touch this if installing a switch per the video instructions.
So you don’t have to cut the wire and splice with the t tap?
Nope, just add your T-Tap the correct side of the thermo switch wire and connect up your switch to ground and your all set..
@@TheChemistDIY awesome thank you
@@TheChemistDIY so if I only have this switch do I still have to run the negative wire backwards?
i missed the most important part, what amp and volt switch did you use ?
just your normal 12 volt switch will do
Where did u get that wire ? Im worried about using normal wire with all that heat there
Ebay brother, hot flexiable 4 core shielded wire.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263051713516
Which gauge?
Where did you get the wire, male connector and t tap connector ?
T-taps you can pick up at any local automotive store as well as wiring. Speaker wiring will even work for most of this low voltage stuff, I just happen to have some leftover shielded 4 pair/22 awg laying around from my custom glow kit I made for the bike.
For the 3 legs switch, is the ground leg left empty or needed to connect something? Thanks!
If your wiring it up like I have done here then yes.. you're basically using the 3 leg like a two leg switch..
@@TheChemistDIY Thank you very much!
@@TheChemistDIY hi bro i have a yamaha Yzf-r125 my fan never kicks in and i get a warning light. Can i just buy a simple switch and a simple wire? Or do i really need the special adapters like yours?
@@TheChemistDIY so basicly i need to test if the fan works. If it does i need to find wich one ground is. And then connect ground with T tap. To the switch. But what about the positive??
@@gloriouschannel3683 correct!!!.. no need to worry about the hot wire.. it's constant.
Does the fuel/fan relay the same, to not cause the new thermo switch to come on? Tested the fan the harness the fuses 2 brand new thermo$ but won't kick the fan on fan works perfect? Itz a puzzle for sure?
Sorry brother, i dont understand your question. Can you please clarify your question.
Yeah, basically the fan positive lead wire became partially ungrounded? In return would cause the fan to come on and sometimes not to come on. That cheap puddy material that's on the black ground wire terminal and blue wire on the positive usually wares out over time. Saudered it doesn't work that well, just got another one.
Why not to change the original fan switch with a lower setting one?
That's an option as well. I think it's snitch racing who sells that the 190 kick on temp thermo conductor.. it's been discussed in the below comments.
One additional benefit of dual fans over one is equal disbursement of engine heat to both sides of the bike and not just the right.. this is really noticeable at low speeds and dead stops.
@@TheChemistDIY I agree, so your primary idea was to assemble a 2nd fan if I well understood did you managed to do that?
Sorry but how could you make the LED work?
Run a power lead from a constant 12v source To the top prong of the switch, the bottom coper prong should be connected to a constant ground, this will make the light turn on at this point. On the fan locate the positive side and run a wire to the center prong of the switch... done
Does 2013 not have these sensors??
Not sure what sensors you're speaking of, please elaborate.
james moreno well in most bikes it’s on the radiator. I’m thinking on mine it’s on the block I guess. The water temp sensor / fan switch
Yeah, I can't speak for placement on other bikes as I'm mostly knowable on parts of the 04-05 GSXR. But like any other car for example.. one has to existband with that mentality you're able to work on pretty much any bike or car..
How much is it in dollars?
Not sure what you are asking, how much is what.. the fan, switch?.. fan can be purchased on eBay for what ever the thier selling for at the time. Switch.. $2-$3 bucks.
@@TheChemistDIY Fan price from 2doler to 3
@@940azh7 the fan I got from eBay for I believe was like $28.. again this is all dependent on the seller.. you may find cheaper or more.
Is there anyway I could direct message you ? I could really use your help. Thanks 🙏🏼
You can email me at jamesmorenojr@gmail.com
The background music is so annoying
Really loved the annoying background beat. 💩