We used to ream out the new valve guides. On the unleaded thing, something we noticed with the A Seriea is that they used to 'knock' or 'pinking' as some call it. It needed some timing and mixture tweaking to sort most of it out. But the best results came from using the additive like you mentioned. Nice to see this old girl getting some TLC 👍
I've read a few things about adjusting valves and adjusting timing to cope with unleaded fuel and stop pinking. Something to figure out closer to the time. Cheers
If its good enough for Turbo Yoda or Mechanical Stig its good enough for me. Honestly you'd probably get it closer to tolerance with an oil stone than it came from the factory. Especially if it was made on a Friday. 😆 That stud extractor looks quite shiny. I have had limited luck with the 2 nut method. Toolpro are killing it. Halfrauds should take a leaf out of their book. 🤔
I think it will be more than adequate for this high compression, high tech beast 🤣 ToolPro have just refreshed the range and this was a new addition. Perfect timing and it worked great
You worked so hard on that head you steamed up the camera lens. That's putting in the extra effort for a bang up job. I like those options that came with the press. That's going to be handy.
@@Badgertronix We've gotten lost. Randall: Well, this map, Kevin, used to belong to the Supreme Being. ... It says to turn right when we reach Australia shouldn't it be turn left?
They're good stud tools...I have a 40 year old Litchfield and it still works like new...The idea is to put it as close to the base of the stud as possible..It will grab on... .002" is my warp limit...
I’ve had better results with that stud removing tool by installing it as close as possible to the base of the stud. Particularly on motorcycle barrel studs, as they tend to be l o n g. Reduces the flex in the studs. Cheers.
@@Badgertronix And I guess it'd do less damage to the threads if you intended to reuse the studs. On the more rustic side, if you actually knew you were ditching the studs I might be tempted to use big waterpump pliers instead.
This is the one I used: www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/835-toolshed-silicone-carbide-oil-stone?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6uT4BRD5ARIsADwJQ1_kZSfCJroA0gVroqMDwKAYhsuzkmSkGf1y9qW7Zus1-GnNwXGBegoaAsQ4EALw_wcB
Not sure if I've already told you, but I reconditioned engines in the early 70s. So have done quite a few of these engines. Get a new rocker shaft, as they wear on these. Old Fords had to have a camshaft and followers.
To be honest I'm just going to wing it. The cooling system pressure tested fine and it wasn't overheating. Could be a bad idea but easy enough to take the head off again if I need to.
General consensus suggests that they aren't necessary. If there's ever a problem with valve seat recession it's easy enough to pull the head and do them then
After 20+ years of no leaded fuel plenty of people have run their classic without issues with unmodified heads. Hopefully it will be OK... I do have an additive I'm planning on using just in case
Nice work sir. I am also work on Morris Minor motor. I learn a lot of you. Grease off the Netherlands.
We used to ream out the new valve guides. On the unleaded thing, something we noticed with the A Seriea is that they used to 'knock' or 'pinking' as some call it. It needed some timing and mixture tweaking to sort most of it out. But the best results came from using the additive like you mentioned. Nice to see this old girl getting some TLC 👍
I've read a few things about adjusting valves and adjusting timing to cope with unleaded fuel and stop pinking. Something to figure out closer to the time. Cheers
That was one greasy thumbs up there Badger. Nice job surfacing the head. That's a new trick for me.
For me too! Came up really nicely. Cheers mate
Second greasy thumb!
If its good enough for Turbo Yoda or Mechanical Stig its good enough for me. Honestly you'd probably get it closer to tolerance with an oil stone than it came from the factory. Especially if it was made on a Friday. 😆
That stud extractor looks quite shiny. I have had limited luck with the 2 nut method. Toolpro are killing it. Halfrauds should take a leaf out of their book. 🤔
I think it will be more than adequate for this high compression, high tech beast 🤣
ToolPro have just refreshed the range and this was a new addition. Perfect timing and it worked great
that stone did a great job ! i like that extractor tool, i need one.
Is coming along nicely and the tool is awesome. Super quick and easy 👌
Excellent video. Some old engines had enough nickel in the casting that the valve seats were pretty hard. Packard comes to mind. Cheers from Oklahoma
Thanks for watching and welcome 🙂
You worked so hard on that head you steamed up the camera lens. That's putting in the extra effort for a bang up job. I like those options that came with the press. That's going to be handy.
Thanks buddy, I'm very happy with how it is looking so far. The accessory kit for the press is fantastic, makes it much more user friendly.
I've used a grinding stone like that in the past, works well!
Great progress! Soon you'll be restoring old timers full time! =)
It worked great! Onwards and upwards to bigger and more badass projects 😎
@@Badgertronix I'm feeling the opposite. Less bad ass projects. Lol for me. You go right on ahead. 😉
Hallo when do we see the continuing storie of the Morris Minor. Grease of a fan from the Netherlands.Also bizzy with a Minor.
Good stuff.
Say hey to the boys and your better half.
Still working on the tunnel. Happy Motoring.
Thanks buddy. Have you seen the light at the end yet?
@@Badgertronix We've gotten lost.
Randall: Well, this map, Kevin, used to belong to the Supreme Being. ...
It says to turn right when we reach Australia shouldn't it be turn left?
They're good stud tools...I have a 40 year old Litchfield and it still works like new...The idea is to put it as close to the base of the stud as possible..It will grab on... .002" is my warp limit...
Works a treat. I'm well within .002" so looks promising. Cheers Zig
@@Badgertronix that's great! I didn't think that feeler gauge would go in. 👍
Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Would you use the same technique (sharpening stone) to level the block ?
I’ve had better results with that stud removing tool by installing it as close as possible to the base of the stud. Particularly on motorcycle barrel studs, as they tend to be l o n g. Reduces the flex in the studs. Cheers.
That makes more sense and stops them twisting. Cheers
@@Badgertronix And I guess it'd do less damage to the threads if you intended to reuse the studs.
On the more rustic side, if you actually knew you were ditching the studs I might be tempted to use big waterpump pliers instead.
Great work mate 👍
Cheers mate
Replace EVERY stud. I still have scars from tightening a head when the stud broke on the old '52 Minor.
That would have been a painful lesson. They will all be getting replaced. Cheers
Nice job bud. Onto the pressing . Cheers
Thanks buddy, I'll press on
@@Badgertronix Ok now that's funny 🤣🤣
🤣🤣
What grit grade stone did you use to re surface the head. Lots of grades on eBay.
This is the one I used:
www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/835-toolshed-silicone-carbide-oil-stone?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6uT4BRD5ARIsADwJQ1_kZSfCJroA0gVroqMDwKAYhsuzkmSkGf1y9qW7Zus1-GnNwXGBegoaAsQ4EALw_wcB
Not sure if I've already told you, but I reconditioned engines in the early 70s. So have done quite a few of these engines. Get a new rocker shaft, as they wear on these. Old Fords had to have a camshaft and followers.
We'll have a look at the rockers in the next vid. Given the price of a recon one I'll probably go down that route. Cheers
nice job mate
Cheers mate
All the gear, but no idea ! I think you just like wasting money on tools that you don’t need.but still. It cheers me up watching.
At least it gives you an escape from your own life and gives you a chance to ponder where it all went wrong.
Ditto
what about getting the head checked for Cracks ?
To be honest I'm just going to wing it. The cooling system pressure tested fine and it wasn't overheating. Could be a bad idea but easy enough to take the head off again if I need to.
Badgertronix I like winging it 🍻🍻🍻
@@BackCountryWrenching me too.
I'm surprised you didn't use any engineers blue
You're surprised I didn't use something I don't have? Life must be like a box of chocolates for you
Sorry i had to ask, why arent you fitting hardened valve seats?
General consensus suggests that they aren't necessary. If there's ever a problem with valve seat recession it's easy enough to pull the head and do them then
Thanks. I thought they were needed for unleaded, but as you say the head would be reasonably easy to pull if theyre needed.
After 20+ years of no leaded fuel plenty of people have run their classic without issues with unmodified heads. Hopefully it will be OK... I do have an additive I'm planning on using just in case
Thanks. Keep the videos coming.
@@Badgertronix I like TCW3 and I have a series on it. Helps quiet engines. May not be a lead substitute.
You should have got a engineering shop to put the head on their surface grinder and grind it, it would have cost very little.
I did this in the time it would have taken to drive to the machine shop. This build is all about what you can do at home
4:32 hahahahahahahahahahahaah
🤣🤣
Nice job cleaning, what was a 20-minute vid was probably 20 hours of work.
Not quite that many but took a few. Cheers
i forgot how basic them engines are
Nice and simple, just like me 😀
Badgertronix ha ha ha no comment on that lol 😂
That stud tool was terrible it would be no good I small areas
It took out everything I tried it on nice and easily. True it might struggle in tight areas but no big deal, plenty of other options available. Cheers
I've never seen one. Is it called a stud remover?