Thanks Russell, the clutch is very simple its a sprag clutch on the pulley of the main motor. it has an allen Key which alows you to adjust the tension on the clutch and point at witch it slips
watched this a few times now, currently building a couple of engines..and working on your theory of measurements currently doing my 2 heads..heres an example,would you be kind enough to check and agree or disagree please as i work in thou so have to convert.. your factory setting is 0.000661mm.......= 0.02602 inch picking one seat of mine at random 0.0301 inch..... so 0.0041 high over standard,,which equates to 0.00010414mm my c-aea525 springs are 160 lbs @ 400 thou inch...ive got 041...so spot on no shim needed... do you agree many many thanks in advance
Hay Dude c-aea525 require a fit length of 1.325" so what you need to do is put a valve in your cylinder head, put it together with top cap and collet and fully close the valve then measure between the bottom of the valve spring seat and the underside of the valve cap and if that is less then 1.325" you will need to get the head machined if that measurement is more than 1.325" then you will need shims under the seat to bring it to the right height hope that helps let me know 👍
@@HREIRL yup sure does thanks..Im also making some inch spacers .assembling the valve with top cap then measuring the excess..Lathe being delivered thus Saturday so super excited about that too..excellent content keep it coming...
@@rhysdiggers1514 Aww new tool day has to be the best feeling in the world congrats and enjoy every minute of it. If you don't already watch him Abom69 is a great turning channel
Is this not all a bit pointless until you have the head skimmed (so you know it sits flat and level on the mill table) , and more importantly, the actual valve you are using in each port, ground to match the seat. then the associated spring, cap and collet fitted in final position before spring length is measured!
The head had been lightly skimmed to make it square, so no matter how much you grind the valve you won’t make the spring seat higher. First stage set all spring heights level and to a known value, then fit valve guides and cut valve seats then fit valve and measure fitted length, then use shims to bring the valve springs to the correct open length 👍👍
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A very good tech video, explaining something that is quite technical, in an easy to understand way.
Thanks Gavin I appreciate the feedback glad it makes sense :)
I enjoyed nice to see some engineering being done.
Glad you enjoyed it
good vid that, interesting and well explained.
Aww cheers
Can you show us the clutch setup on the mill? Also love the engine machining vids, great to see someone doing it themselves on simple machines
Thanks Russell, the clutch is very simple its a sprag clutch on the pulley of the main motor. it has an allen Key which alows you to adjust the tension on the clutch and point at witch it slips
Great vid. Nice explanations.
Glad you liked it!
my favourite video so far,may i ask where you buy the shims from or do you make them..
Hi Buddy As you suspected I make them my self from shim stock and then harden them 👍
watched this a few times now, currently building a couple of engines..and working on your theory of measurements currently doing my 2 heads..heres an example,would you be kind enough to check and agree or disagree please as i work in thou so have to convert..
your factory setting is 0.000661mm.......= 0.02602 inch
picking one seat of mine at random
0.0301 inch..... so 0.0041 high over standard,,which equates to 0.00010414mm
my c-aea525 springs are 160 lbs @ 400 thou inch...ive got 041...so spot on no shim needed...
do you agree
many many thanks in advance
Hay Dude c-aea525 require a fit length of 1.325" so what you need to do is put a valve in your cylinder head, put it together with top cap and collet and fully close the valve then measure between the bottom of the valve spring seat and the underside of the valve cap and if that is less then 1.325" you will need to get the head machined if that measurement is more than 1.325" then you will need shims under the seat to bring it to the right height hope that helps let me know 👍
@@HREIRL yup sure does thanks..Im also making some inch spacers .assembling the valve with top cap then measuring the excess..Lathe being delivered thus Saturday so super excited about that too..excellent content keep it coming...
@@rhysdiggers1514 Aww new tool day has to be the best feeling in the world congrats and enjoy every minute of it. If you don't already watch him Abom69 is a great turning channel
Hi , does your machine also run in a clock wise direction .i see the cutter is made to cut anti clockwise.thanks.
Hi Jim, yes machine can run in both directions thanks to my VFD. I run the cutter anti clock for a reason 😜 well spotted
Nice work. Did cut valve seats at all?
The valve seats where cut before this operation Its a good idea to cut them first as the will effect the setting height for the top cap 👍
Is this not all a bit pointless until you have the head skimmed (so you know it sits flat and level on the mill table) , and more importantly, the actual valve you are using in each port, ground to match the seat. then the associated spring, cap and collet fitted in final position before spring length is measured!
The head had been lightly skimmed to make it square, so no matter how much you grind the valve you won’t make the spring seat higher. First stage set all spring heights level and to a known value, then fit valve guides and cut valve seats then fit valve and measure fitted length, then use shims to bring the valve springs to the correct open length 👍👍
@@HREIRL Thanks for the good info. Loving your work... Just start episode 2 of Gretel. good luck