Great time to rebuild those rocker shafts too while it’s apart. Very easy to do. Personally I really like those C3 and C4 heads a lot but I will say from experience it will cost about $800 to rebuild those heads. So it makes sense to go with the Edelbrock heads. They are a great choice for a street head. And if you want to part with those stock heads I may know a guy. 😂
Always liked the FE engine. The worst thing is an oil leak at the gasket surface between the head and the intake. Oil gets sucked through any imperfection and into the chamber.
Those heads look good compared to what I’ve seen come into my shop. And I’ve done a lot of FE stuff including cammer’s and hi risers, but also quite a few restoration FE’s. The two piece retainers are stock factory, which I usually replace because when the spring pressure goes away over the years it floats the valve and beats the locks up and I have seen it crack or brake the inner retainer and drop a valve. These non performance engine’s only had 80 psi or less of spring pressure when new, and with the big 3/8 valve stem it didn’t take much to float the valve after the spring gets weak, as for the galling on the stems I’ve seen that a lot on older engines and I suspect it is from setting over the years and when it doesn’t get started often it doesn’t have enough oil left in the guide to lube the valve until it runs for a little bit. As far as the seals go most of the time they are broken up and in the oil pan on any engine that used the old rubber seals, so those might have been changed at one time, but I have seen them still intact on some occasions. They are a straight forward easy fix to do them but not necessarily a cheap one. Good luck with which ever way you decide to go. Hope to see you guys at the SEGA race at The South Georgia race, I don’t think we will have the car ready ( still waiting on pistons and rods) but we will probably go to see how much everyone has stepped up.
@@AKB351 thanks so much for watching and letting us know all of that. We were thinking the same thing these aren't as bad as we expected or I think everyone that watched the tear down video expected either. Those "welded" oil rings had to have been a massive part of our oil consumption. I am planning to be at South Georgia as long as everything works out! I'll let you know!
@@timferguson8654 exactly right! That's the plan is to swap them out for some aftermarket heads. Flow better, be more reliable and take a little weight off!
@shift_points I've had experience with these Edelbrock heads and intakes Make sure you buy the Edelbrock intake gaskets they will work better than felt pros
Thanks for sharing! Keepem' coming!
Thanks for watching!! We will do our best!
Great time to rebuild those rocker shafts too while it’s apart. Very easy to do. Personally I really like those C3 and C4 heads a lot but I will say from experience it will cost about $800 to rebuild those heads. So it makes sense to go with the Edelbrock heads. They are a great choice for a street head. And if you want to part with those stock heads I may know a guy. 😂
@@frizzellracing I'll probably get a set of rockers in general is what I have in my mind at least! I'll let you know about those! 😂
Always liked the FE engine. The worst thing is an oil leak at the gasket surface between the head and the intake. Oil gets sucked through any imperfection and into the chamber.
@@jimhancock5047 these had some good Fel pros on there. It was taken apart at one point but we don't know why or what was done!
Those heads look good compared to what I’ve seen come into my shop. And I’ve done a lot of FE stuff including cammer’s and hi risers, but also quite a few restoration FE’s. The two piece retainers are stock factory, which I usually replace because when the spring pressure goes away over the years it floats the valve and beats the locks up and I have seen it crack or brake the inner retainer and drop a valve. These non performance engine’s only had 80 psi or less of spring pressure when new, and with the big 3/8 valve stem it didn’t take much to float the valve after the spring gets weak, as for the galling on the stems I’ve seen that a lot on older engines and I suspect it is from setting over the years and when it doesn’t get started often it doesn’t have enough oil left in the guide to lube the valve until it runs for a little bit. As far as the seals go most of the time they are broken up and in the oil pan on any engine that used the old rubber seals, so those might have been changed at one time, but I have seen them still intact on some occasions. They are a straight forward easy fix to do them but not necessarily a cheap one. Good luck with which ever way you decide to go. Hope to see you guys at the SEGA race at The South Georgia race, I don’t think we will have the car ready ( still waiting on pistons and rods) but we will probably go to see how much everyone has stepped up.
@@AKB351 thanks so much for watching and letting us know all of that. We were thinking the same thing these aren't as bad as we expected or I think everyone that watched the tear down video expected either. Those "welded" oil rings had to have been a massive part of our oil consumption. I am planning to be at South Georgia as long as everything works out! I'll let you know!
Sometime is cheaper to buy a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads that are complete then putting new valves new seats resurface them and all the labor
Just remember that head and everything in it is 65 years old
@@timferguson8654 exactly right! That's the plan is to swap them out for some aftermarket heads. Flow better, be more reliable and take a little weight off!
@shift_points I've had experience with these Edelbrock heads and intakes Make sure you buy the Edelbrock intake gaskets they will work better than felt pros
@timferguson8654 that's good to know too! I was planning to go with the Fel Pro kit!