One of the best videos ever. You actually show everything with complete details. Not just "talking" about mystery items that are never shown. Thank you Boss.
Hello Neville, thank you for commenting and I'm so glad you found some valuable information for your viewing time. I encourage you to build one if you work with your hands and enjoy repairing things. Nothing more satisfying than taking out a nasty greasing part and making it brand new.
@@vwpier Hi Pierre, 3-3 1/2 cup of media and fill up the 5 gallon bucket to about 3/4 full with water and that's assuming your media pump is inside the same 5 gallon bucket. There is no need to get too scientific with it. Best of luck with your project!
You probably dont give a shit but does anyone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any tips you can offer me
Thank you for this clear, concise and efficient approach to vapor blaster fabrication. I've seen many on the web but your approach is right on the money in terms of cost and performance delivery. A special thank you for your detailed parts listing, a huge time saver for those of us that just want to get up and running ASAP!
Hello Brad, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Hit me up if you have any questions or need troubleshooting help. Best of luck with your build!
I am so blown away by this. The video is by far the best, most descriptive, no nonsense detailed explanation I've ever seen. And the quality is top shelf. Thank you for being so informative. I'm seeing a business opportunity here in just washing other people's parts. This same method but on a much larger scale. I want to do entire engine blocks and manifolds and accessory brackets. Thanks for the video my friend.
Hello Jason, Thanks for commenting and your kind words. There are so many different things this can be used for, etching glass, etching logos into metal instead of stickers or paint. I'm sure a successful parts cleaning and polishing business is in your near future. Best of luck to you in your new endeavor.
I love the simplicity of your set up. This l can tell, is a less is more type of thing. I've watched many builds that have complicated and later on problematic gadgets. The pump and bucket setup is the most straight foward, plus l like your quick coupler idea(definitly in my build), this makes media changes a breeze. I can see having 3 or 4 buckets with different types of pumps and media, quick changing them in and out, or to more than one cabinit. Your set up easily converts back to dry, quite easily if one would want to also. I like it!😁
Hello Curlybrownk9, Thank you for commenting! The multiple bucket idea is awesome and if you really get into it I can see another cabinet in your future. Before I built mine I watched all kinds of videos that were pretty vague, trying to sell me plans or way more complicated and expensive. Best of luck with your build!
Amazing !! This is what TH-cam is great for...People sharing ideas and being creative. Thank you ! I have a HF blasting cabinet, and I'm converting it to this...
Hello Jimmy-K, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Wet media blasting is awesome! No more needing to have squeaky clean part before blasting like in a dry system, no dust, or the risk of warping thin parts from heat build up. I can't say enough about it. Best of luck with your build!
Now this is how a cabinet upgrade video should be made, has all the links and every word for tips is gold and useful. Dude you are awesome. I've been looking at video after video all were useful, but yours was the BEST on Vapor blasting. As an active TH-cam Creator myself I want to say, "Thanks", for taking time to produce and share your information. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hello Keith, thank you for commenting and the kind words. Like yourself it was a real challenge for me to build my own simple system on a budget with the information that was available without paying for someone's plans. Best of luck with your build and don't hesitate to ask questions. I review comments daily and enjoy the interactions. Cheers!
The best I have seen yet thanks I am going to build myself one tomorrow I have a sand blasting cabinet all ready I am going to get anougher one tomorrow for wet vapour blasting thank you 👌
Hello Noel, Thank you for your kind comment. Wet media blasting is one of the coolest processes I ever used for removing contaminants and polishing. You will be blown away at the results from your DIY system. Best of luck with your build!
Hello Creator_ Nater, Thank you for commenting. It's my pleasure, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your build :)
Hello Xinix, Thank you for commenting and you kind words. I couldn't agree with you more. Nothing better than making nasty dirty things brand new and spotless. Best of luck with your projects!
Not sure if others mention but this remote reservoir design and evacuating the cabinet with the vacuum provides a clean viewing area. I am very impressed. Also the small required abrasive amount is also a hit. Commercial units have the sump in the base of the unit and have to use an air knife or wipers to keep vision of the part. Great job
Hello Don, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I still get a good amount of secondary splash on the glass as I'm working but all I do to clear it is lift off the air pedal and just let the slurry flow reflect off my glove at the glass to clear things up enough to continue. Best of luck with your projects!
Thank you K2DO for commenting. I was blown away when I first started seeing videos on vapor blasting but thought that most of the setups were way more complicated than they needed to be. You don't need electronic valves, complicated plumbing, unnecessary bulkhead and air fittings. It's best to focus those extra funds on the air compressor. Let me know if you have any questions should you decide to build one. I'll gladly share what I've learned. Cheers
@@vbared I really appreciate the time and effort you've spent explaining how things works, with a great video detail, i will give it a try and thanks again , i also liked the idea of the clamping jig you did it was simple but very effective thumbs up !
Really appreciate the time you took, detailed and the right speed, Awesome setup, awesome video, I'll be giving it an attempt, have a small cabinet on the way. Thank you.
Hello John, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video. Let me know if you have any questions during your setup. Best of luck with your project!
Hello L J, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Great catch on noticing the split hose sections under the legs. I need to come up with a good way to fasten them so they don't fall off when I move the cabinet. Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared I added 8 in of square tubing to bring the cabinet up to my height and locking casters to move it. I got some good tips from your video. thanks
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your build, it's a blast to use, pun intended :)
@@vbared Hello friend. Thank you, I am interested in building the same device for myself, and from your video, I got a lot of information I needed. Good luck with your new projects. Greetings from Ukraine!
Thank you Victor for this! This is exactly what I’m looking for! Love The results I’ve seen with my media blaster, but what I’ve seen with vapor blasting just far exceeds what I’ve been able to do with baking soda. hope to get this conversion up and running soon!
Hello Trevor, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I agree vapor blasting is amazing if you are working with softer metals. The ability to clean and polish without the worry of clogs associated with dry blasting is awesome. Best of luck with your mods!
Hello eightof8, Thank you commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Much of the information when I was learning seemed incomplete or more complicated than it needed to be. My goal was to put together a budget system capable of producing pro results. Best of luck with your projects!
I agree with everyone that this is one of the greatest videos ever. With only 3.3K subscribers ( i am a new subscriber) and you get 100,000 views. That is awesome!!
Hello John, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm so glad you found value for your viewing time. Building one of these systems was extremely rewarding for me and so useful. Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared And you even get back to your commenters!! WOW you are a great guy! Your video seriously gave me the inspiration to start building my cabinet. I found an old sandblaster cabinet on Craig's list a couple years ago but ended up using it the way it was. I then bought most of the necessary parts to build a vapor honing cabinet but then got run over by an F350 while riding my Harley. It has been over a year to get back to walking and the blood clots are almost gone. During this time I found an old Porsche 914 GT6 factory race car as well as an Allis chalmers 1967 garden tractor. I plan on starting a youtube channel to follow the restoration of these vintage items. I have wanted one of those 914's ever since my mom told me about hers and I restored a Kharmann Ghia which is about the same thing...I found a 100 year old lathe that needs some work but everything will come into play to get the work done. I am sure I will be contacting you to maybe do a collab or something. I am in PA and I am guessing you are in the midwest. Thank you for getting back to me and sorry for the novel I wrote .
@@Biokemist-o3k Hi John, No need to apologize. I'm glad to hear your progressing to a full recovery. Restoration work is extremely rewarding both the final product and more so in the journey. The 914 and classic mower sound like super cool projects to work on. Give me call +1-478-227-3301 when you're ready to ask questions or contact me through the TH-cam comments. I enjoy learning and sharing information with other like minded people. Praying for your full recovery.
Great design and video! Thanks so much! I'm wanting to make one now...lol. You mentioned the spashing out the bottom....when you said that my first thought was would a small size kayak skirt???...basically a waterproof material with a drawstring on both ends to go around bucket with hose hanging out (even could come out the other end) of skirt. I also thought about a downspout adapter & 8-10" downspout connected to bottom of box and diverted down in bucket. Idk how if either would be any better. I'm sure it's great just like it is! I like the way you explained why you were changing things, the problems & solutions, etc. Thanks again!
Hello Dennis, Thank you for commenting, kindness and sharing your splash solution. I was going to design and 3D print a chute that empties out next to the pump but the kayak skirt is a great idea. Being able to restore soft metals back to new is awesome. I've etched glass with it as well. Let me know how it works for you after you build one.
Hi John, Thank you for your kind comments. I'm glad that you found value in this video for your viewing time. This basic system performs as well for its size as commercial units. Best of luck with your build!
Hello William, Thank you for the kind comment. Yeah, man, put one together. It's awesome getting parts to look better than OEM. Check out how I was able to restore my Brembo brakes using it - th-cam.com/video/afBccMhvRBI/w-d-xo.html
Hi Nick, I'm glad you found value in this video. I hope it helps motivate you to build one. The vapor blasting process is amazing. Best of luck with your build.
Wow! Really awesome video, thank you so much! You explained everything so good, i had a question about hot water but you already answered in previous comments, new subscriber man, thank you again,
Hello Miguel, Thank you for subscribing and commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The goal was to build a simple inexpensive vapor honing setup that would give the same results as the big expensive commercial machines for a small business or hobby mechanic. I post videos as new projects come up or new inexpensive additions to the setup that make it better. Best of luck with your build!
Hello Mark, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Let me know should you have an question! Best of luck with your build!
Hello Kyle, Thanks again, most of what I found on TH-cam when building mine seemed way more complicated and expensive than it needed to be. A large enough compressor is really the only roadblock for many. Once you have it the rest doesn't cost much, the results and uses are amazing. Cheers!
@@dsw_kat2693 You're good to go then. I started off in a similar way with a 2hp 20 gallon SpeedAire. Pressure drops where almost immediate. You're gonna have a good time making parts look better than new.
Hello EquineRepro101, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your build.
Hello Sherard, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Best of luck with your conversion, let me know if you have any questions.
@@vbaredHi, I eventually converted my cabinet to vapor blast following your video. It's working but it isn't really any better than the original dry blasting. I'm trying to figure out what I'm missing or what I've done wrong. I noticed you used glass bead. I think I have black aluminum oxide 70 grit but it's not really cleaning my parts as well as I had hoped. Was ok when using dry. I'm also using 80 gallon compressor, and pressure for blasting is regulated at about 75 psi. It's a 1.0hp sump pump with about 75gpm. I have the check valve on the air line too. Do you have any ideas what might be wrong with my setup?
@@sherardhubbert7575 Hello Sherard, Please provide me with some more information about what types of materials you are cleaning? Vapor blasting's strength is the decontamination and polishing of soft metals. It can do coating and rust removal in a pinch but dry sandblasting is way more efficient for that type of work.
May be hard to believe but I did this for a company I worked for 30 years ago but we called it soda blasting because we used baking soda and on a much larger scale. our pump was mounted on a trailer, and we used 10,000 psi. with the blast gun that rested on your shoulder.
Hi K R, thank you for commenting. These home versions of the commercial machines are amazing. I was able to refinish my four Brembo calipers to new condition. To have them sent out for reconditioning would have cost thousands. Wow, 10k PSI, I bet the baking soda would remove just about anything with that amount of force.
Hello Andre, Thank you for commenting and letting me know it's broken. The updated link to the pump is below: www.ebay.com/itm/132314015745?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338718717&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 Best of luck with your build!
Hi this is the best video On this topic great detail and very well explained thanks for shareing Busy building my vapou blaster And would want to keep it simple
Great information 👍 Do you have a link for the pump you are using? I have a small pump laying around that is 26 GPM. Not sure if it will be efficient enough to get the job done. I'm trying to source the parts before I start my build. Once again, thank you for taking the time to document your setup. Awesome job my man. Keep the videos coming please 😁
Hi Charlie, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Below is the exact pump I use for comparison. It flows just under 72 gallons per minute at a head height of 8 meters. I recently had to replace the pump due to rust on the drive shaft. Make sure no to leave the pump in water when not in use. This what I believe caused it to rust so badly. Best of luck with your build. www.ebay.com/itm/132314015745?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338718717&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Brilliant video. I'm in the UK and wanting to build this exact same unit as simple and straightforward. Some other videos are more complex and lot more expensive to build. It would just be for use in my shed for motorbike parts. Pump seems to be stumbling block here in the UK
Hello Kris, Thank you for commenting. You're going to love how awesome all your parts will look. I found this supplier in the UK. Search for a dirty water pump and pick one that will fit into a 5 gallon bucket. There are many in the link below that look similar to what I'm using. www.machinemart.co.uk/categories/?search=Dirty%20Water%20Pump Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared Hi Victor, sorry for late reply. I have just bought this exact pump this morning, a blast cabonet and all hoses fittings required to build an exact copy of your unit. Loving the results you are getting and really hope I can emulate them on my motorcycle restoration. Could you give a bit more info on the sheeting on the door please. I'm sure I'll have loads of questions when everything arrives 🤣🤣. If you don't mind helping me out my email address is devlin11@hotmail.co.uk 👍🏻
I have modified my Harbor Freight blast cabinet to remove the syphon tube. I also use glass beads and on occasion soda. I am planning to modify the cabinet for vapor honing. Just was thinking hot water pressure washers vs cold water and the hot water seems to do better. Thanks for your videos.
Hi Jerry, If you are coming from a dry blast system then wet blasting will be awesome for you. With the dry setup you have to worry about degreasing before sand blasting to keep your media from clumping and disrupting the flow. In a wet setup the media travels along with the water, accelerated by the air at the nozzle tip to scrape away contaminants and polish. The water aids in flushing away the residue. You won't have any issues with grease, carbon, or anything else. If your production rate is too slow just use a larger media. On coating removal I use aluminum oxide or garnet. The sharp edge profile leaves a similar surface to dry blasting but without the hassle of having to degrease first. Cheers!
Some very good information in all your blasting cabinet videos! Started buying the parts for mine, so far I got a 1.1KW pump, a big metal 200 liter oil barrel as my parts are very long(6 cylinder head, front subframe), pneumatic air pedal, 3d printed gun. I was wondering if I should get sandblasting gloves or regular rubber gloves(for better feel of the part), will the water hurt? Also how long should the gloves be, the barrel is 60cm in diameter. Any other advice? I've got two compressors at 3.5HP total, 110 liters tanks. And a vacuum cleaner to clear the misting.
Hello Toyota, Thank you for commenting and congratulations on commenting to put together your own Vapor Blast System. Check out my video on using Harbor Freight's inexpensive chemical gloves for this purpose, I'm still using those gloves today. I can touch the back or my cabinet with them. th-cam.com/video/oZTgCDl93Jo/w-d-xo.html The air supply is going to be the trickiest part, if not enough you're going to need to take frequent breaks so the air supply can recover. My 5hp Ingersoll Rand 18.1 CFM 60 gallon with SS5 pump can barely handle the air demand without breaks to cool down if the sessions are really long. The barrel project sounds super cool, please email me some pics or send a video link of it to vbared@gmail.com I'd love to see it completed. Let me know if I didn't answer anything with enough detail. Best of luck with your build.
@@vbared Thank you for the quick reply, just watched your glove video. How are they holding up two years later? Do you find it easier to hold objects compared to the sand blast gloves? Coincidentally these are the exact some gloves I was looking to get even tho I am in Europe. My air wont be enough for sure, but first thing I will do is just start blasting and go from there. I have a car I will be restoring, after that I wont use the cabinet as often. I will either take breaks on bigger parts or suck it up and just buy a big compressor. Once I am done with the cylinder head and front subframe, the other stuff is small. I was thinking about making a similar video inspired by you, so others can build their own barrel blaster. I will forward it to you.
Hello Clint, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Vapor blasting is amazing and being able to get results like systems costing 10s of thousands for under $2000 (including the compressor) is the icing on the cake. Best of luck with your build!
Hi VB, great video. Just wondering if you ever thought about re-assembling the cabinet using pop rivets instead of bolts/ nuts, at least on the main joints of cabinet & hopper below. It would provide a smoother finish both inside & out. Obviously use silicone sealant and secure with rivet…? Any thoughts? Thanks, Rob
Hi Robert, Thank you for commenting and rivet suggestion. That's sounds like an awesome solution to get rid of the protruding screws. The only place where you might want to keep the screws are areas that would support the mesh base if you decide to cut it down to gain some height inside the cabinet. Best of luck with your build!
Great videos!! Full of great information, I'm close to testing mine out, but after watching this video, I'm going make a few changes. The top light is so simple and easy, way better then what I did. What size is your nozzle opening? Thanks again.
Hi Chad, thank you for commenting. I'm using an 8mm tip. You're going to love using the vapor blasting system. Hit me up if you have further questions. Best of luck with your build.
Another banger! I'm def gonna look into this was already planning to build a cabinet for dry blasting (to prep turbo hot parts before cerakoting) but vapor blasting will leave a much nicer finish on tranny cases and engine covers than dry glass bead. Btw, did you ever live in Winston Park? I used to have a neighbor with an Evo and he was into autoX.
You're gonna love the wet blast system. Using extra fine glass bead media leaves a nice smooth to the touch finish on the softer metals unlike the rough surface that dry blasting leaves behind. The refinished cases are going to look better than when they were new. You're going to be blown away. If you are planning to strip a lot of powder coatings or rust then I would use a dry system. I grew up near The Falls shopping center.
Victor thanks for such useful content, are you able to re-use the media several times, is there a way to filter out the contaminates from the media and how often do you change out the water in the bucket ?
Hi Rob, thank you for commenting. Yes, the glass bead media can be used over and over again so long as you aren't blasting over 60 psi with it. The glass bead will shatter about 60 psi lose mass and develop sharp edges reducing speed and luster. Cleaning it out is simple, oil will float to the top of the water. Oil absorbing pads can be used to trap it. Most of the other bits of debris will be lighter than the glass beads and can be carefully poured out. Walmart has some inexpensive plastic shoe bins with lids that I keep my used media in. I briefly went over cleaning out the media in this video: th-cam.com/video/LXoGc67tuEk/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you have any other questions. Best of luck with your projects!
Muy buen trabajo, siempre a la vanguardia, excelente video explicativo. Muchas gracias por compartir tu video un gran saludo desde la costa norte del estado de Sao Paulo Brasil.
Hola Tu Voz América, ¡Saludos desde Texas, Estados Unidos! Gracias por comentar y amabilidad. Me alegra que hayas encontrado valor en este video para tu tiempo de visualización. Uno de mis objetivos es viajar al extranjero Brasil está en mi lista de países para visitar. ¡Mucha suerte con tu proyecto!
Dear Victor, congratulations on this excellent video, I learned a lot. Is it possible to reuse ground glass several times? How can I separate the glass from the impurities that I have removed from the materials that I have subjected to the process? How many cubic feet per minute of air is required? How environmentally friendly is this method? I will be looking forward to your kind cooperation.
Hello German, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. Yes, the glass beads will last for several cleanings so long as blast pressure is below 60psi. I blast at 50psi to conserve air a keep the glass beads from shattering. My Ingersoll Rand has a 60 gallon tank and running the SS5 pump can produces 18 cfm at 50 psi. If you use a harder material like garnet you can blast between 60-100psi but will deplete the air supply faster. The blast media can be be refreshed to a point by emptying it out into a smaller container filled with water wait a few minutes for the blast media to settle to the bottom and pour out the dirty water. Oil will float to the top and can be absorbed using oil an absorbing mat to be disposed of responsibly. In my opinion wet blasting is more environmentally friendly than other methods since there is no need to disolve oil using chemicals. Best of luck with your build!
Tio, superb video. Gracias. This is a master class in doing this on a budget and very thoughtful and detailed at the same time. Only one question, why 60psi when others say lower the better? Speed? Or surface finish? Or does surface finish suffer in the pursuit of speed?
Hello Fredio54, Thank you for your kind comments. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The type of material being vapor blasted, media type, and air compressor performance is what will determine the blast pressure. Glass beads shatter above 65psi so blasting at 60 PSI is about the max I would recommend. What I've found is that blasting anywhere between 50-60 PSI produces excellent results. 50 PSI conserves more air at the expense of some speed. 60 PSI is the fastest but depletes the air supply faster. If you run a compressor that can pump air at a rate of 20cfm or higher then you can blast at 60 PSI without having to wait for it to recover. The 60 gallon Ingersoll Rand SS5 compressor I use can flow 18.1 CFM at 90 PSI so can only blast at 60 PSI for about 30 minutes before having to wait for it to recover. When blasting at 50 PSI I don't have to wait because the compressor can fill the tank and shut down while I'm blasting. A 2-step method that gives the best results for soft metals like aluminum, brass, and copper.. Start with 80 grit glass beads to decontaminate and then switch to 170-325 US sieve (aka extra fine) glass beads for the final polish.
@@vbared thanks for all the extra detail, much appreciated! I think my 3 cylinder compressor is about 12 CFM. I ran it continously with the regulator wide open wastefully dry blasting with 100-250 micron garnet outside, and the best it could do was 30psi. Next time I'll run it at 50-60 and stop when it drops under that. I have an extra tank inline from the compressor and a large ID retractable hose which flows well so I can dump my stored air fast and refill reasonably quickly, but fairly stable slow changing pressure. 30psi was still removing material, I only stopped and noticed when I ran out :-) for day to day tasks like dusting off or tyre top ups I dont turn it on often, the tank holds enough for a typical month and does not leak, isolated from the compressor which does slowly bleed down.
Hello Jay, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Below is the list of media that I use and when I use them. I mainly use two types of media garnet and glass bead. Three grits is all you need to get 90% of things done, 36 grit garnet (for stripping), 80 grit glass bead (stage one polish), and 170-325 US sieve glass bead (aka extra fine glass bead media) for the final polish. The 100 grit glass bead can be skipped unless that's the finish you're after. 36 Grit Garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F56 80 Grit Glass Bead - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html 170-325 US Sieve (aka Extra Fine Glass Bead Media) -www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13 Best of luck with your build!
Hi Mr10usdad, At the time of recording the system minus the compressor was just under $400. The video description should have the links to the parts I used to get the current prices.
Hello Soullessone_edc, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your build!
Hello Paul, Thank you for commenting. Sorry, I don't have that spec but can tell you the head height is 10 meters. The system can be run with a smaller pump but for under $100 this pump is a very good deal. Just make sure whichever pump you decide on it must not be a grinder type. Originally I was using a dishwasher pump but the flow wasn't enough for my original eBay vapor blast gun but might work with a smaller air and nozzle orifice version. best of luck with your projects!
Hi Victor, I'm still trying to figure out why you selected a high volume pump? 4500 GPH or thereabouts seems like overkill since your only pumping upwards of no more than 3 feet and reducing the output flow from 1 1/2" or thereabouts to 5/8" hose? what would be the disadvantage of using a low volume pump say under 1000 GPH?
Hello G RP, thank you for commenting. I'm sure you can use a smaller pump. The first pump in my system was a repurposed dishwasher pump that I picked up for $40. The problem I had with it was the media agitation. Playing around with media agitation hose position helped. The current pump I have in the system moves so much water that it's almost like a blender. So long as the media hose is in the bucket its position doesn't matter. The cost of my pump was also pretty low at under $70 shipped. Work with what's available in your market, stay within budget, and have fun playing around with your system. Best of luck with your build. Cheers!
@@vbared So as long as the pump I'm using will agitate the slurry enough and provide adequate flow to the gun I should be alright. Thanks again for the quick reply.Cheers! to you!
Hi Victor like the simplicity of your set up! This makes me want to convert as its not intimidating at all. I would line to know how many CFM’s does that IR compressor put out? Also have you thought of a way to add a (foot) switch to the pump and possibly the air? Lastly are you seeing any flash rust on any parts and if so what do you do about it? Cheers
Hello TheRolfano, thank you for commenting. My head was also spinning when I first thought about building my own. There is so much incomplete, complicated, and expensive ways that I came across to build one that I had to put this video out there. Rust will be an issue when working with non stainless steel or iron. What I did when working with the cast iron pan was after each step of blasting I would towel dry it, blow it with compressed air, and finally heat gun the parts to stop most of the flash rust. If your plan is to paint the part I would go ahead and primer it. If it's a cast iron pan rub it with shortening, on tools you can spray them with WD40 and quick wipe. These are the specs for my compressor: Ingersoll Rand SS5L5, 5 HP, Single-Stage Comp, 60 Gal, Vertical, 135 PSI, 18.1 CFM, 1-Phase 230V Best of luck with your projects!
@@asyrafhashim3735 Hello Asyraf, Thank you for commenting. Using a rust inhibitor with the slurry is genius. Is there a particular brand inhibitor you recommend? Best of luck with your projects!
@Victor, I'm hoping you could assist me with a few questions; 1.)Has a "Monstrous" 4300 GPH pump proven necessary? Isn't it the air pressure which does the work? (Everyone claims they're cheap but in reality a decent pump like this runs North of $150 and losing half your pressure to agitation further makes me question the need for a 4300 GPH pump) 2.) Is the check valve really necessary? (Further contradicting the need for a high volume pump as this seems like a MAJOR restriction) 3.) Wouldnt the stock Harbor Freight trigger work with some simple mods (Drillbit, tap and fittings) vs purchasing a separate nozzle? (Doing this will also retain trigger capabilities) Seems to me that if the air does the work that a static flow of water would equal what you're getting with a $100+ pump Maybe I should just go spending a couple hundred and see what I get lol... Ill post more questions as they come.
Hi Stuart, Thank you for commenting. The pump I'm using is just over $60 (link below). The main reason for the big pump is media agitation and type. 36 grit garnet will have a hard time flowing through a low flow pump. I played around with a dishwasher pump at first. It flowed OK but the media would collect in certain spots of the bucket. www.ebay.com/itm/1-5HP-Water-Pump-Stainless-Steel-Clear-Dirty-Pool-Pond-Drain-/383284992030?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 The check valve goes on the air line not the water line. I went with a 1/2 barbed diesel fuel check valve to minimize the air flow restriction. Purchased it on eBay. Without the check valve in place the water and media will flow up the air line, foot pedal, regulator, and get into your compressor. You only want that media going out the nozzle, trust me. Even using a small pump you'll still require the check valve. best of luck with your build.
Nice video. Watched it a few times. Already put the cabinet together and going to buy the SS 5 compressor. I'm going to clean aluminum motocross parts. Do you recommend a better air gun? And what medium should I use at what ratio? I'm excited about all of this. .. thanks in advance,. Daniel
Hello Daniel, Thank you for commenting! If you are following my setup and have your pump all set to go an inside the 5 gallon bucket then fill it 3/4 full of water and use 3 to 3 1/2 cups of media. Use 170-325 US Sieve (extra-fine) glass bead media for smaller parts around 4 inches cubed in size. When working with larger parts to avoid a blotchy finish it's best to use a 2 step approach. The first being 80 grit glass bead then switch the media to the extra-fine for the final finish. This is what's worked best for me. I only have experience with my first nozzle that has an 8mm tip. Check out AmouryEnterprises channel he goes into great detail with the nozzles. th-cam.com/users/ArmouryEnterprisesvideos Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared I'm at lowes looking at wire. I can't find anything on what I need for the sl5 compressor. What guage wire and what amp breaker do I need? Thanks.
Hello Edson, Thank you for commenting. I've settled the following material types and grits. Stripping rust and paint: 36 grit garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F56 80 grit garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F54 Removing oxidation and surface contaminants: 80 grit glass bead - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html Final stage polish: 170 - 325 US sieve (aka extra-fine glass bead) - www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13 Best of luck with your projects!
Hello Smith Original, Thank you for commenting. It's truly incredible what can be accomplished with this process. If I remember correctly under $500. The description has the itemized costs at the time I made the video. Run down the list and add everything up less the compressor. This DIY cabinet is a work in progress. I think there are 5-6 additional things I've upgraded in later videos. Those extras may have added another $200, maybe. The 10k+ cost of a commercial setup didn't make sense to me for occasional use. The same commercial results can be achieved with this budget setup. Best of luck with your projects!
Awesome video! I currently have a harbour freight cabinet, with a bunch of mods, drop down bottom inside, dust deputy, etc. I currently use a Porter Cable 80 gallon 7hp compressor 175psi with 17.3 scfm at 100psi. Will this water pump work for that do you know? I use a foot operated SKAT BLAST S25 gun with a medium ceramic tip. Thanks!
Hi Rick, thank you for commenting. The media pump in this video has been working great for me. I'm sure it will work fine with other nozzles. I'm running an 8mm tip. Your compressor has an awesome flow rate at 100 psi. You shouldn't have any are issues. Best of luck!
Hi Chad, Thank you for commenting. I've settled the following material types and grits. Stripping rust and paint: 36 grit garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F56 80 grit garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F54 Removing oxidation and surface contaminants: 80 grit glass bead - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html Final stage polish: 170 - 325 US sieve (aka extra-fine glass bead) - www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13 Best of luck with your projects!
Hello GREGSGUNSONLINE, Thank you for commenting and the Jet Dry idea. I haven't tried adding anything to the water other than blast media. The mist usually gets taken care of by the vacuum but being able to see with all the water splash can be challenging. I've found that applying RainX to the inside over the 3M paint protective clear vinyl film, as well as Rain X anti-fog on the outside part of the glass, clears things up while I'm breathing on it. Both of these help to maximize visibility. The trouble with the Harbor Freight cabinet is the glass angle since it was designed for dry blasting. An angle more like 75 degrees would allow water to run off quickly making the Rain X more effective. I can't complain too much it gets the job done for a hobby mechanic like myself. A commercial setting would benefit from a cabinet designed for wet blasting. All the internals work perfectly. The weakest link to the system is the cabinet.
Hello EE101, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. It's standard vinyl flooring that Home Depot will cut for you. It's sold by the foot x 12ft long. Any color will work. but the light colors will reflect more light to improve visibility when blasting. www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMaster-Limestone-Slab-Beige-Stone-Residential-Vinyl-Sheet-Flooring-12ft-Wide-x-Cut-to-Length-C6730284C534G14/300866858 Best of luck with your projects!
Hello Pierre, Thank you for commenting. These are the parts links needed. Double-check that everything threads properly while you're at Home Depot. Check Valve - amzn.to/3iGkxYX Media Coupler - www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-3-4-in-PVC-FIP-x-FIP-Union-511-44-34-34H/204202889 Hose Barbs for coupler - www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4-in-Brass-PEX-Barb-x-3-4-in-Male-Pipe-Thread-Adapter-APXMA3434/301541030 Best of luck with your build
I was curious if a Husky 60 Gallon 11.5 cfm @90PSI would be decent enough to run a vapor blasting system just for the house when I want to clean some dirt bike parts?
Hello Micscience, Thank you for commenting. I would give it a try if that's what you have. A smaller nozzle tip like 6mm will ease the CFM demands. If the compressor doesn't stop running while your blasting you could simply give it a few minutes to catch up before continuing. Best of luck with your projects!
Excellent demo and thanks for being very thorough!!! You got me interested now!!! Been holding off on buying the HF blast cabinet....I just wasn’t impressed but your system looks great!! How does it do with heavy rust removal?? 🙏
Hello Outdoorzone, thank you for commenting. I did a rusty cast iron refinishing video here: th-cam.com/video/f5ngwSeXo78/w-d-xo.html What worked best for me to remove heavy rust was to use 36 grit garnet. It's about the size of coarse salt and very sharp edges (caution it will scratch the viewing glass if not protected with some kind of film). It will take some time if blasting at 60 psi which is the limit of my compressor without having to wait for it to recover. Blasting the garnet at 90 PSI is faster but more taxing on the compressor. If you are using a compressor with a bigger pump and larger tank you may not need to stop to give the compressor time to recover. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Best of luck with your build.
Hello G RP, thank you for commenting. The pump that I bought had a stepdown transition tube that I cut leaving the 1" tread part to connect the PVC tee. The reason for the tee is so I could split the water flow. 1 short piece with its end wire tied to the base of the pump to swirl the media around. The top of the tee would pump water to the nozzle. The reducers made lining everything up easy for me. www.ebay.com/itm/1-5HP-Water-Submersible-Pump-Stainless-Steel-Silver-Clear-Dirty-Pool-Pond-Drain/353072228123?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 60.99+tax www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-4-oz-Purple-Primer-and-CPVC-Cement-Handy-Pack-30234/203561639 7.70+tax www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-4-in-x-1-in-PVC-Sch-40-SPG-x-FPT-Reducer-Bushing-PVC021081000HD/203811585 1.44+tax www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-4-in-PVC-Sch-40-S-x-S-x-S-Tee-PVC024001200HD/203812201 2.42+tax www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-4-in-x-3-4-in-PVC-Sch-40-Reducer-Bushing-PVC-02108-0950HD/203851140 1.44+tax will need 2 www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4-in-Brass-PEX-Barb-x-3-4-in-Male-Pipe-Thread-Adapter-APXMA3434/301541030 2.82+tax will need 4 I hope I answered your question. Cheers!
Hey Victor excellent explanation of how you hooked this all up. I was just about to set mine up with the metering valve etc. for dry blasting, but this with no dust, is amazing and has changed my direction. Does this set up work with the gun that comes with the cabinet?, I have the Canadian equivalent "Power Fist" from Princess Auto. Thanks so much!
Hi Trev, Thanks again for commenting and kindness. Unfortunately, the included gun doesn't have the correct entry angle to properly work with vapor blasting. I've been using a 3D printed vapor blast gun that I designed for over a year now. I have a physical kit available on Amazon in the US and the digital version on my Shopify store for anyone that can't get the premade kit. All you need to do if Amazon won't ship one to you is find a local 3D printer and have them print one for you. Check out my video linked below for more details. Purchase links are in the video description. th-cam.com/video/4WWT7O3rxwU/w-d-xo.html
Hello Chatty, thank you for commenting. 18.1 CFM at 90 psi is what's rated for the Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 Single Stage Air Compressor. I haven't measured it myself at the blast cabinet to see what the number is after all the plumbing while blasting. I'll have to produce a video to include that test. Best of luck with your projects!
Excellent video sir. I appreciate your effort but the parts list especially. I plan on building a vapor hone cabinet this summer. Wondering if you’ve discovered anything you’d possibly have done differently since your initial build? Thanks again.
Hello Echotoday, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I updated the parts list and added the related videos at the bottom of the description. Check the descriptions of each for the part links. If you have any questions about the build feel free to contact me by phone +1 478-227-3301 Best of luck with your build!
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Yes, some of the media will end up in the vacuum. Adding a long smooth chimney or running a separator can help recover the lost media and return it to the reservoir. amzn.to/49LeiM6
Hello, do you have any good suggestions on how to keep parts from flash rusting after vapor blasting, and something that will not effect the appearance to much? Thank you.
Hi Chad, Thank you for commenting. I would blow the part off with compressed air and spray it with WD-40 give it a wipe to remove any flash rust that may have started. What type of part are you working with?
Hi Victor very nice pice of equipment one question I have in mind don’t under stand that valve on the top of the compressor you talked about ? Sorry for 🤪 can you explain it a bit more and do you need it 👍🇬🇧
Hello Wayne, Thank you for commenting. Check out this airflow chart I made for you. Let me know if something is unclear. drive.google.com/file/d/1N8XHOAfTOg2Rt_NgPMzbZxnwVhXghlLX/view?usp=sharing Cheers!
Hello Gabriel, Thank you for commenting. I'm currently running a V3 3D printed blast gun. It has a 4mm air jet and 10mm tip. Best of luck with your projects!
Basic-basic question: why go slurry/wet/vapor to begin with? (I feel like I missed the first video...) Does this method use less air? Give finer finishing than you could get by just downsizing your media? I could see wanting to do this outdoors, where contaminating your work area or the environment in general (or your neighbors) would be a big problem, but this is a cabinet system, so...what's the deal?
Hello David S, Thank you for commenting. Your question is a great one. Originally I was going to use a dry blast system. In my opinion having both would be ideal since exposing untreated steel and iron to water results in flash rust. I went wet to not have to deal with degreasing parts prior to sand blasting, concerns about dust or chemical inhalation, and worries about warping thin metals due to heat build up. In a wet setup I can take a nasty greasy part, clean, remove oxidation, and polish all at once. Thin parts don't heat up and warp because the water keeps the temperature in check. Blasting pressure is between 30 - 60 psi. These are the main reasons for me to start of with a wet system. It really depends on the work. Powder coat stripping can be done in a wet system but a dry setup would make short work of it. If I was to use a dry system it would be for stripping coatings and rust. Best of luck with your projects.
@@vbared Good reasons - well, for me, GREAT in the case of the degreasing issue (I'm seldom concerned with thin metal and almost never trying to restore thinly-plated stuff without coating the living hell out of it with epoxy or some such - and pickle that stuff after drip-drying). Anyway do you have a video that illustrates the degreasing? I'm having a hard time imagining the flow-process whereby the grease gets taken out of your way (or maybe it's not entirely automatic). I did read a description from a commercial mfr that indicated their system 'overflows' at some point in their closed-loop process and the lighter (grease, oil, spent grit fines) has a chance to be separated for disposal. I might guess that in your system you could approximate the same thing by adding a trickle of water, calibrated to outflow your pumped slurry usage, but there's probably a better way. What's the practical limit to the grit-size that can be slurried? I'm often confronted with horrifyingly-deep corrosion cells (those black magnetite-filled pits) and they always are the hardest thing to remove - and slowest of all with finer abrasive.
@@davids1681 Hello, David, My system is super simple. If I'm dealing with a lot of grease and the slurry water is looking really bad I'll just stop wait for the oil to rise up to the top of the media bucket and pick it up with an oil absorbing sheet. It only takes a few minutes for that to happen once the pump is off. If the water has a lot of non-oil particles that need removing I'll do the same thing stop wait for the media to settle to the bottom this time and syphon out all but an inch of water above the settled media. I've recently added a separator to recover the media that used to be lost to the vacuum filter. Cheers!
Hello Drifting, thank you for commenting. Another viewer had the same problem and found some debris partially blocking the main nozzle. If that doesn't solve the issue check to make sure that your air supply line is on the top straight path and slurry is on the bottom part that makes the turn. Send a picture link if you still have issues so I can see your plumbing routes. Best of luck!
@@vbared was using a 3MM nozzle, switched to 8mm and the problem stopped. System worked good on Monday and ok the next day (4:05 on your video) Think the glass got too shattered. Still working out some bugs. Thank you
How long did the actual cleaning process take? Was the basting portion of the video sped up? Based on the video time, it took about 2 minutes to do it. Is this accurate time or did you speed up the video? If sped up, how long is the actual cleaning time?
Hello Pavel, Thank you for commenting. The cleaning part of the video is sped up 2X it took about 5 minutes at normal speed. Small aluminum parts that fit in the palm of you hand don't take long at all about 5 minutes. Large parts like a vehicle valve cover can take hours to clean and polish. On large parts using 80 grit glass beads first to cut through the corrosion and then followed by 170-325 US sieve (aka extra fine glass beads) for the final polish gets you professional results. The parts come out looking brand new. Coating removals take much longer. I have a video on restoring 4 Brembo calipers to showroom new condition took about a week. first few days was just removing the old powder coat. Best of luck with your projects!
Hello Richard, Thank you for commenting. and encouraging words. Your question is a great one. Originally I was going to use a dry blast system. In my opinion having both would be ideal since exposing untreated steel and iron to water results in flash rust. I went wet to not have to deal with degreasing parts prior to sand blasting, concerns with dust or chemical inhalation, and worries about warping thin metals due to heat build up. In a wet setup I can take a nasty greasy part, clean, remove oxidation, and polish all at once. Thin parts don't heat up and warp because the water keeps the temperature in check. Blasting pressure is between 30 - 60 psi. These are the main reasons for me to start of with a wet system. It really depends on the work. Powder coat stripping can be done in a wet system but a dry setup would make shorter work of it. If I was to use a dry system it would be for stripping coatings and rust for everything else I would go wet. Best of luck with your projects
@@vbared Great information! I have got to build one now for greasy car parts that I am always having to use degreaser on. I wonder what kind of pump will last the longest pumping the slurry. I assume yours is a centrifugal pump, it looks like a sump pump. Thanks for your fast reply.
The ductless blasting guys told me that wet works better on powdercoating because it doesnt heat up the PC and make it a gummy sticky mess...is that your experience?
@@T0tenkampf Hello ApexSun, Thank you for commenting. I don't have any personal experience with a dry system but have seen many videos on dry systems used in removing powder coatings. Sand blasting usually is done just under 100 psi. Wet blasting is 50-60 psi and the water further softens the impact. Powder coat is super tough and weakening it by marinating parts in aircraft stripper for 24 hours and using 36 grit garnet on it worked best for me.
Wow! This is well done Sir!!! I am a bit stuck with one thing... the nozzle? The link you have gets to a 3D print site. Now as I am completely new to this I wonder what exact nozzle I need. I am in Canada so supply is not quite as plentiful as it is down South... Thanks for the amazing video, cant wait to build me one!
Hello Bruno, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I started off using an eBay nozzle with an 8mm tip like this one: ebay.us/QnJFao If you have a big compressor that can operate at 18cfm at 50-60 psi and up consider the 10mm tip. After some time using the eBay-style blast gun I learned several things. 1 - Its weight caused hand and wrist fatigue during long blasting sessions. 2 - The two different angles of the media and air hoses took up a lot of room inside, and would get caught up on large parts. 3 - Another issue was the shape of it which had a hook at the top making it uncomfortable to hold. 4 - large tips were expensive $25 - $45 US each. The eBay-style gun was originally designed to be used with a pressure washer so comfort and weight were never thought about during the design. Check out my video on why I chose to use a 3D printed vapor blast gun instead of what's currently available. You will need to have and know how to use a 3D printer to make use of the digital download file on my Shopify store. th-cam.com/video/4WWT7O3rxwU/w-d-xo.html Hit me up with any questions. Vapor blasting is a super cool hobby and business to get into. Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared You are just amazing Victor! I cant believe how quickly you answered. People like you make the Internet a lot of fun... I will start with the "regular" nozzle and try with my 2 small compressors hooked up parallel. It will be a bit painful as there will be waiting time but its a start, right? The follow up question would be - are you selling your DIY nozzles?
Hi Bruno, Thanks again for your kindness. Tom left this comment below about his two 3 HP linked compressors. If your setup is similar you should be fine. The eBay gun will definitely get you started with this hobby and changing it out for something else is fairly easy to do. I'm working with one of your Canadian neighbors on getting him a physical kit. Shipping international is new to me but I'm sure with some persistence I can make it happen. Send me an email vbared@gmail.com when you're ready. I'm sure I'll have it figured out by the time you need it. "Once again awesome idea. I’ve downloaded and printed the V3 gun, and am happily using it. I’ve got about 30hrs use on it so far, and can I say it’s a beast. Gets the work done soo much faster and is much more ergonomic. I’ve got it hooked up to 2 x 3hp compressors linked together and I never run out of air. Great product." - Tom Clark Cheers!
@@vbared Hey Victor. I am slowly making progress, certainly quite a bit thanks to you! I was lucky enough to find a 18.5cfm compressor locally so that part is covered. Now I am building my cabinet for the first tests... I have one more question if I may... well, there are many more but I try to be reasonable... lol My "dream" is to do an entire motorcycle engine assembled. Its 40 years old, has some paint, oxidation and crud on it (I did de-gunk it already quite a bit). Now theoretically I would be very hesitant to just plug the holes and blast an engine but I will need to take this one apart and rebuild some components anyway so even if I would somewhat screw up I can fix things... now to the question - what media would you use on it? There are 2 kind of finishes I would need in the end. A) the engine block (cylinder, etc) would need some silver paint and B) parts I would like shiny (valve cover, alternator cover, etc) Is the 36 grit garnet OK on all the parts for a first vapor blast? My thought is do a first pass with garnet and then with 80 grit glass beads. They dont have the finer stuff locally at this point. Thank you kindly if you have time to answer, otherwise I completely understand that u have better things to do than answer all the newbies stuff...
@@1150bbeemer Hi Bruno, I appreciate your kindness and thank you for the comment interactions. Send me an email to vbared@gmail.com so I can exchange information with you. Maybe we can setup a zoom or phone call so I can better answer these and any other questions you might have.
Hello Marco, thank you for commenting. The dirty water pumps are designed to pump water out muddy water from ditches. I haven't had any problems using it with the glass beads (various grits) and 36 grit garnet which has sharp edges and looks like very coarse coffee grinds. Only time will tell but so far so good. Best of luck with your projects!
Hi Chad, thank you for commenting. My current source for blast media is: www.grainger.com/search/abrasives/abrasive-blasting/abrasive-blasting-media?tv_optin=true&searchQuery=blast+media&searchBar=true&suggestConfigId=1 Glass beads for cleaning and polishing, garnet and aluminum oxide for stripping rust, paint, and powder coats. Let me know if you need more detail.
Olá Edson, obrigado por comentar. Eu resolvi os seguintes tipos materiais e grãos. Descascando ferrugem e tinta: 36 granadas de grão - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F56 80 granadas de grão - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F54 Remoção de oxidação e contaminantes superficiais: 80 contas de vidro - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html Polonês da fase final: 170 - 325 peneira dos EUA (também conhecida como contas de vidro extrafinas) - www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13 Boa sorte com seus projetos!
I have been dry blasting for years with lots of diffent media, depending on the job. I just heard of the vapor blaster the other day. What benefits are there besides no dust? Thanks
Hi Robert, Thank you for commenting. Aside from being dustless, there is no need for the parts to be grease free. Wet blasting will produce a better finish than dry blasting on soft metals and doesn't generate any heat which can cause some thin parts to warp.
Good morning.. thank you to share this project with us.. i have question.. i just finished mine and i did and used all parts you did.. everything work but is look like when i push air it goes back in the water hose pushing it back to the pump.. do you know or have any suggestions?? Thank you
Hello, MIrko, thank you for commenting. Is your air hose connected to the top fitting on your nozzle and water on the bottom? Do you have the check valve on the air line? Double check those and let me know if that solves the problem.
Hi Victor, thank for the subscribe Made some headway on my build today I got the vinyl for the glass. and Flexzilla hose. Learning a lot from your build. Making a few experiments of my own along the way as well. I think I bought way more pump than needed though. Got a 3/4HP "Sewage Grinder" Pump. 2" outlet. Is your pump the same type but 1/2HP? I followed the link but it only says "submersible pump". The place I bought mine from had a 1/2HP "sump pump" with a 1/14 outlet. I can still exchange and would certainly be cheaper than the one I bought. Does this pump need to be rated for solids at all? I am guessing a stainless pump is recommended. Seen one that has a thermoplastic impeller but shouldn't rust but not sure how long it would last?
Hello Twisted Tuner, You're welcome! This link below is to the exact pump I'm using. You don't want a pump that grinds it will damage the blast media. All the fittings in my build video will work perfectly with the pump below. I don't have any personal experience with a plastic pump version but If the outlet and specs is similar to the one below it should work just fine. My stainless pump's body is rusting a bit near the base since I always leave it in the media bucket filled with water. The impeller is plastic if I remember correctly. I'll have to confirm if you want to know for sure. www.ebay.com/itm/353072228123?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338718717&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 Hit me up with any questions you have along the way. I'd be happy to help. Best of luck with the build.
@@vbared I finally found one that will ship to Canada. It should be here Friday! Pretty much exactly the same as yours. Something that has been rolling around in my head is... Do you think the float switch is just a "2 wire DRY Contact" made by the float operating it? I would like to have a foot switch for the pump as well maybe even a maintained/off type contact. If there is no real power going through the circuit I have a couple of foot switches that could do the job.
Hi Twisted Tuner, I'm confident that a foot switch would operate it just fine. I found this picture of what's most likely inside the float switch you'll be getting with your pump. drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1U_Nb0HJfDo_yUq2pYAE2v5UCVnNNHl1z Best of luck with your projects.
@@vbared I cut open the float switch and found that there was about 1" metal ball that would press a switch when it float. This switch is INDEED connected to the power circuit! It interrupts the power from the plug to the pump. It is N/C and unless pressed in will provide power to the pump. Important to know if one decides to use a foot switch to turn on and off the slurry pump. This switch will need to handle power and current of the pump. as well be isolated correctly so as to protect from electrocution. I would recommend that this always be connected to a GFCI oultet as a precation as well.
@@AlteredEagle Hello AlteredEagle, Yep, you got it, the float switch is super handy as is, modified to be foot or switch activated. Wait until you get it together and running, the results will blow you away.
Great video very informative. I've done exactly the same setup as you, I've run into a issue though the media doesn't seem to agitation very well. I'm using 11000 watt pump. Any diffent ideas to remedy this
Hi Ryan, thank you for commenting. Please take a picture of your pump setup outside of the media container so I can see how your plumbing looks and past a link in your reply.
What kinda return on investment has this brought you? I mean if you’ve used it to provide it as a service. Because I can’t justify doing this just to clean up parts for a single motorcycle I’m rebuilding, or any other personal job. Definitely produces amazing results
Hello Jonny Hypebeast, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm a hobby mechanic so for me it was all about restoring parts on my older cars. My 2004 Mitsubishi Evolution 8 had started to show its age. The Brembo calipers were looking very bad. Having them redone would have cost me over $1000. I'm planning on restoring the valve cover soon $250 to have it done or $400 to replace it. I could easily charge $50-75 per hour in my local market just to clean up motor cycle parts if I wanted to make a business of it. The most expensive part of this endeavor has been the air compressor to run it. I used a small 20 gallon 1.5hp to run my smaller air tools for years but couldn't run the bigger impact tools or drills so for me upgrading the compressor was justified. It really boils down to budget, will you actually use the system to restore enough of your own parts to recover most of the expense? If yes then build one but if you just like the idea of being able to to do this kind of work only then don't. Hopefully my response helps you decide. If you asked me again today if I would do it again? My answer would be, yes, for sure. Best of luck with your projects!
Hello Axl, Thank you for commenting and kindness. They used to have an eBay store but it looks like they are no longer maintaining it (linked at the bottom). They had a bunch of metal parts, metering valves, foot pedals and sandblast gun. If you're planning on vapor blasting consider the kit I put together and have been using for the last year. amzn.to/3NflgiD Check out my video of it in action restoring a set of Brembo calipers. th-cam.com/video/afBccMhvRBI/w-d-xo.html www.ebay.com/str/tacomacompany?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JFICCHeNR7O&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
i have used a air footpedal , the pressure from the waterpump was so high it backfed intoo the airline through the nozzle and leaked out the airregulator and the pedal , made a big mess of the floor and ruined the regulator
Hello watahyahknow, thank you for commenting. I had the same issue when I first started testing this setup. A diesel fuel check valve installed on the air line just after it enters the cabinet before the nozzle will keep that from happening. I talk about and mention the importance of it in this video at 12:40 seconds. The current location of my check valve: drive.google.com/uc?id=1BjBO55B8OBgL0NWEbHB5-317IhbtQeql Where to buy the same check valve I'm using: www.ebay.com/itm/2-Aluminum-Alloy-1-2-Inch-12mm-Fuel-Non-Return-One-Way-Check-Valve-Diesel-Petrol-/124233930125 Best of luck with your projects!
Hello Balthazar, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Здравствуйте Станислав Сидорчук, С Новым Годом из Техаса! Спасибо за комментарии и добрые слова. Видео и изображения упрощают общение на разных языках. Удачи тебе, мой друг.
Hello Armond, Thank you for commenting and consideration in supporting my work. Yes, I have a kit with the following parts. Please email me vbared@gmail.com your shipping information so I can quote the total cost. Harbor Freight vac port $20 Intake splash shield $15 Vac chute cover & cabinet plugs $ 5
One of the best videos ever. You actually show everything with complete details. Not just "talking" about mystery items that are never shown. Thank you Boss.
Hello Neville, thank you for commenting and I'm so glad you found some valuable information for your viewing time. I encourage you to build one if you work with your hands and enjoy repairing things. Nothing more satisfying than taking out a nasty greasing part and making it brand new.
Agreed. Great video.
@@vbared what is the ratio MEDIA/Water in your bucket.
@@vwpier Hi Pierre, 3-3 1/2 cup of media and fill up the 5 gallon bucket to about 3/4 full with water and that's assuming your media pump is inside the same 5 gallon bucket. There is no need to get too scientific with it.
Best of luck with your project!
You probably dont give a shit but does anyone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any tips you can offer me
Thank you for this clear, concise and efficient approach to vapor blaster fabrication. I've seen many on the web but your approach is right on the money in terms of cost and performance delivery. A special thank you for your detailed parts listing, a huge time saver for those of us that just want to get up and running ASAP!
Hello Brad, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Hit me up if you have any questions or need troubleshooting help.
Best of luck with your build!
I am so blown away by this. The video is by far the best, most descriptive, no nonsense detailed explanation I've ever seen. And the quality is top shelf. Thank you for being so informative. I'm seeing a business opportunity here in just washing other people's parts. This same method but on a much larger scale. I want to do entire engine blocks and manifolds and accessory brackets. Thanks for the video my friend.
Hello Jason, Thanks for commenting and your kind words. There are so many different things this can be used for, etching glass, etching logos into metal instead of stickers or paint. I'm sure a successful parts cleaning and polishing business is in your near future.
Best of luck to you in your new endeavor.
I love the simplicity of your set up.
This l can tell, is a less is more type of thing.
I've watched many builds that have complicated and later on problematic gadgets.
The pump and bucket setup is the most straight foward, plus l like your quick coupler idea(definitly in my build), this makes media changes a breeze.
I can see having 3 or 4 buckets with different types of pumps and media, quick changing them in and out, or to more than one cabinit.
Your set up easily converts back to dry, quite easily if one would want to also. I like it!😁
Hello Curlybrownk9, Thank you for commenting! The multiple bucket idea is awesome and if you really get into it I can see another cabinet in your future. Before I built mine I watched all kinds of videos that were pretty vague, trying to sell me plans or way more complicated and expensive.
Best of luck with your build!
Amazing !! This is what TH-cam is great for...People sharing ideas and being creative.
Thank you !
I have a HF blasting cabinet, and I'm converting it to this...
Hello Jimmy-K, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Wet media blasting is awesome! No more needing to have squeaky clean part before blasting like in a dry system, no dust, or the risk of warping thin parts from heat build up. I can't say enough about it.
Best of luck with your build!
Now this is how a cabinet upgrade video should be made, has all the links and every word for tips is gold and useful. Dude you are awesome. I've been looking at video after video all were useful, but yours was the BEST on Vapor blasting. As an active TH-cam Creator myself I want to say, "Thanks", for taking time to produce and share your information.
Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hello Keith, thank you for commenting and the kind words. Like yourself it was a real challenge for me to build my own simple system on a budget with the information that was available without paying for someone's plans. Best of luck with your build and don't hesitate to ask questions. I review comments daily and enjoy the interactions.
Cheers!
The best I have seen yet thanks I am going to build myself one tomorrow I have a sand blasting cabinet all ready I am going to get anougher one tomorrow for wet vapour blasting thank you 👌
Hello Noel, Thank you for your kind comment. Wet media blasting is one of the coolest processes I ever used for removing contaminants and polishing. You will be blown away at the results from your DIY system.
Best of luck with your build!
Thanks for showing this setup. Another project to do in near future. Have a nice day. SoOldt.
Hello So Oldt, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in the video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
Thank you for sharing your innovation, and experience.
Hello Creator_ Nater, Thank you for commenting. It's my pleasure, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build :)
One of the most satisfied things there is in life, sand & vapor blasting, great video Victor!
Hello Xinix, Thank you for commenting and you kind words. I couldn't agree with you more. Nothing better than making nasty dirty things brand new and spotless.
Best of luck with your projects!
Not sure if others mention but this remote reservoir design and evacuating the cabinet with the vacuum provides a clean viewing area. I am very impressed. Also the small required abrasive amount is also a hit. Commercial units have the sump in the base of the unit and have to use an air knife or wipers to keep vision of the part. Great job
Hello Don, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. I still get a good amount of secondary splash on the glass as I'm working but all I do to clear it is lift off the air pedal and just let the slurry flow reflect off my glove at the glass to clear things up enough to continue.
Best of luck with your projects!
outstanding video , the part you cleaned looks brand new i've never thought vapor blaster works that well , thanks for sharing Mate !
Thank you K2DO for commenting. I was blown away when I first started seeing videos on vapor blasting but thought that most of the setups were way more complicated than they needed to be. You don't need electronic valves, complicated plumbing, unnecessary bulkhead and air fittings. It's best to focus those extra funds on the air compressor. Let me know if you have any questions should you decide to build one. I'll gladly share what I've learned.
Cheers
@@vbared I really appreciate the time and effort you've spent explaining how things works, with a great video detail, i will give it a try and thanks again , i also liked the idea of the clamping jig you did it was simple but very effective thumbs up !
vapor blasting is amazing, used some glass beads and it took of carbon with little effort
Really appreciate the time you took, detailed and the right speed, Awesome setup, awesome video, I'll be giving it an attempt, have a small cabinet on the way. Thank you.
Hello John, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video. Let me know if you have any questions during your setup.
Best of luck with your project!
Great video, I like the rubber tube on the legs for vibration, sweet set-up Victor.
Hello L J, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Great catch on noticing the split hose sections under the legs. I need to come up with a good way to fasten them so they don't fall off when I move the cabinet.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared I added 8 in of square tubing to bring the cabinet up to my height and locking casters to move it. I got some good tips from your video. thanks
This is an absolutely wonderful video, thank you so much for all the details you have shown. Thumbs up and subscribed to your channel!👍👍👍
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your build, it's a blast to use, pun intended :)
@@vbared Hello friend. Thank you, I am interested in building the same device for myself, and from your video, I got a lot of information I needed. Good luck with your new projects.
Greetings from Ukraine!
Thank you Victor for this! This is exactly what I’m looking for! Love The results I’ve seen with my media blaster, but what I’ve seen with vapor blasting just far exceeds what I’ve been able to do with baking soda. hope to get this conversion up and running soon!
Hello Trevor, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I agree vapor blasting is amazing if you are working with softer metals. The ability to clean and polish without the worry of clogs associated with dry blasting is awesome.
Best of luck with your mods!
Very clear and informative presentation sur. Impressive video and machine.
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
Very nicely done sir! This is exactly what I’m going to build. Thank you for the video!
Hello Marcel, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
Very nice setup. Thank you for showing it to us with the great detail.
Hello eightof8, Thank you commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Much of the information when I was learning seemed incomplete or more complicated than it needed to be. My goal was to put together a budget system capable of producing pro results.
Best of luck with your projects!
Wonderful and very well done video! Thanks very much Victor!
Hello William, Thank you for your kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
I agree with everyone that this is one of the greatest videos ever. With only 3.3K subscribers ( i am a new subscriber) and you get 100,000 views. That is awesome!!
Hello John, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm so glad you found value for your viewing time.
Building one of these systems was extremely rewarding for me and so useful.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared And you even get back to your commenters!! WOW you are a great guy! Your video seriously gave me the inspiration to start building my cabinet. I found an old sandblaster cabinet on Craig's list a couple years ago but ended up using it the way it was. I then bought most of the necessary parts to build a vapor honing cabinet but then got run over by an F350 while riding my Harley. It has been over a year to get back to walking and the blood clots are almost gone. During this time I found an old Porsche 914 GT6 factory race car as well as an Allis chalmers 1967 garden tractor. I plan on starting a youtube channel to follow the restoration of these vintage items. I have wanted one of those 914's ever since my mom told me about hers and I restored a Kharmann Ghia which is about the same thing...I found a 100 year old lathe that needs some work but everything will come into play to get the work done. I am sure I will be contacting you to maybe do a collab or something. I am in PA and I am guessing you are in the midwest. Thank you for getting back to me and sorry for the novel I wrote .
@@Biokemist-o3k Hi John, No need to apologize. I'm glad to hear your progressing to a full recovery. Restoration work is extremely rewarding both the final product and more so in the journey. The 914 and classic mower sound like super cool projects to work on. Give me call +1-478-227-3301 when you're ready to ask questions or contact me through the TH-cam comments. I enjoy learning and sharing information with other like minded people.
Praying for your full recovery.
Great video breaking it down and easy to understand
Hello Carl, Thank you for the kind comment. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
one of the best videos on this subject!
Hi Jimmy Poop, thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your system!
Great design and video! Thanks so much! I'm wanting to make one now...lol. You mentioned the spashing out the bottom....when you said that my first thought was would a small size kayak skirt???...basically a waterproof material with a drawstring on both ends to go around bucket with hose hanging out (even could come out the other end) of skirt. I also thought about a downspout adapter & 8-10" downspout connected to bottom of box and diverted down in bucket. Idk how if either would be any better. I'm sure it's great just like it is! I like the way you explained why you were changing things, the problems & solutions, etc. Thanks again!
Hello Dennis, Thank you for commenting, kindness and sharing your splash solution. I was going to design and 3D print a chute that empties out next to the pump but the kayak skirt is a great idea.
Being able to restore soft metals back to new is awesome. I've etched glass with it as well.
Let me know how it works for you after you build one.
Great video right to the point. Great descriptions of the setup. Thank you well done. I will be setting mine up like this next week.
Hi John, Thank you for your kind comments. I'm glad that you found value in this video for your viewing time.
This basic system performs as well for its size as commercial units.
Best of luck with your build!
Really detailed setup!!!..that makes me want to set me one up for parts cleaning...thx a million bro
Hello William, Thank you for the kind comment. Yeah, man, put one together. It's awesome getting parts to look better than OEM.
Check out how I was able to restore my Brembo brakes using it - th-cam.com/video/afBccMhvRBI/w-d-xo.html
Impressive video. Complete walk through and demo. Rock star!
Hello R. Arabian, Thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
Saved for future builds. ❤
Hi Nick, I'm glad you found value in this video. I hope it helps motivate you to build one. The vapor blasting process is amazing.
Best of luck with your build.
Wow! Really awesome video, thank you so much! You explained everything so good, i had a question about hot water but you already answered in previous comments, new subscriber man, thank you again,
Hello Miguel, Thank you for subscribing and commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The goal was to build a simple inexpensive vapor honing setup that would give the same results as the big expensive commercial machines for a small business or hobby mechanic. I post videos as new projects come up or new inexpensive additions to the setup that make it better.
Best of luck with your build!
Great video, very informative. All anyone would need.
Hello Mark, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Let me know should you have an question!
Best of luck with your build!
Thanks for putting this together, much appreciated.
Hello Kyle, Thanks again, most of what I found on TH-cam when building mine seemed way more complicated and expensive than it needed to be. A large enough compressor is really the only roadblock for many. Once you have it the rest doesn't cost much, the results and uses are amazing.
Cheers!
@@vbared i have an 80 gallon IR, i think it's the same as yours actually. I only had a 30 before and not nearly enough air.
@@dsw_kat2693 You're good to go then. I started off in a similar way with a 2hp 20 gallon SpeedAire. Pressure drops where almost immediate. You're gonna have a good time making parts look better than new.
great video, very informative explained in detail well executed 👍
Hello EquineRepro101, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build.
Excelente explicación para hacer mi propia máquina tenía ciertas dudas pero me las aclaraste por completo gracias 👏
Gracias amigo (:
Awesome video! Thanks for the information! Gonna convert my unit now!
Hello Sherard, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your conversion, let me know if you have any questions.
@@vbared Will do thank you!
@@vbaredHi, I eventually converted my cabinet to vapor blast following your video. It's working but it isn't really any better than the original dry blasting. I'm trying to figure out what I'm missing or what I've done wrong. I noticed you used glass bead. I think I have black aluminum oxide 70 grit but it's not really cleaning my parts as well as I had hoped. Was ok when using dry. I'm also using 80 gallon compressor, and pressure for blasting is regulated at about 75 psi. It's a 1.0hp sump pump with about 75gpm. I have the check valve on the air line too. Do you have any ideas what might be wrong with my setup?
@@sherardhubbert7575 Hello Sherard, Please provide me with some more information about what types of materials you are cleaning? Vapor blasting's strength is the decontamination and polishing of soft metals. It can do coating and rust removal in a pinch but dry sandblasting is way more efficient for that type of work.
You made a perfect video , super clear!!!! Very usefull, many thanks!!!
Good morning, Jorge, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
May be hard to believe but I did this for a company I worked for 30 years ago but we called it soda blasting because we used baking soda and on a much larger scale. our pump was mounted on a trailer, and we used 10,000 psi. with the blast gun that rested on your shoulder.
Hi K R, thank you for commenting. These home versions of the commercial machines are amazing. I was able to refinish my four Brembo calipers to new condition. To have them sent out for reconditioning would have cost thousands. Wow, 10k PSI, I bet the baking soda would remove just about anything with that amount of force.
Awesome video! Thanx for sharing 👍
JustAnAverageJoe, I'm glad you found value in this video. Let me know if you have any questions about it.
can you resend the link for waterpump, because like is dead plz... or specification needed. Thx
Hello Andre, Thank you for commenting and letting me know it's broken. The updated link to the pump is below:
www.ebay.com/itm/132314015745?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338718717&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared Thx victor
Hi this is the best video
On this topic great detail and very well explained thanks for shareing
Busy building my vapou blaster
And would want to keep it simple
Well done
Hello Creative Spark, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. I'm glad you found some value for your viewing time.
Cheers!
Nice, I see you don't have a need of a windshield wiper, great video
Thank you for commenting, Edison, my goal was to keep it simple and low cost. I also use RainX on the glass inside so the water beads.
Great information 👍
Do you have a link for the pump you are using?
I have a small pump laying around that is 26 GPM.
Not sure if it will be efficient enough to get the job done. I'm trying to source the parts before I start my build.
Once again, thank you for taking the time to document your setup.
Awesome job my man.
Keep the videos coming please 😁
Hi Charlie, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Below is the exact pump I use for comparison. It flows just under 72 gallons per minute at a head height of 8 meters. I recently had to replace the pump due to rust on the drive shaft. Make sure no to leave the pump in water when not in use. This what I believe caused it to rust so badly.
Best of luck with your build.
www.ebay.com/itm/132314015745?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338718717&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Brilliant video. I'm in the UK and wanting to build this exact same unit as simple and straightforward. Some other videos are more complex and lot more expensive to build. It would just be for use in my shed for motorbike parts. Pump seems to be stumbling block here in the UK
Hello Kris, Thank you for commenting. You're going to love how awesome all your parts will look.
I found this supplier in the UK. Search for a dirty water pump and pick one that will fit into a 5 gallon bucket. There are many in the link below that look similar to what I'm using.
www.machinemart.co.uk/categories/?search=Dirty%20Water%20Pump
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared Hi Victor, sorry for late reply. I have just bought this exact pump this morning, a blast cabonet and all hoses fittings required to build an exact copy of your unit. Loving the results you are getting and really hope I can emulate them on my motorcycle restoration. Could you give a bit more info on the sheeting on the door please. I'm sure I'll have loads of questions when everything arrives 🤣🤣. If you don't mind helping me out my email address is devlin11@hotmail.co.uk 👍🏻
I have modified my Harbor Freight blast cabinet to remove the syphon tube. I also use glass beads and on occasion soda. I am planning to modify the cabinet for vapor honing. Just was thinking hot water pressure washers vs cold water and the hot water seems to do better. Thanks for your videos.
Hi Jerry, If you are coming from a dry blast system then wet blasting will be awesome for you. With the dry setup you have to worry about degreasing before sand blasting to keep your media from clumping and disrupting the flow. In a wet setup the media travels along with the water, accelerated by the air at the nozzle tip to scrape away contaminants and polish. The water aids in flushing away the residue. You won't have any issues with grease, carbon, or anything else. If your production rate is too slow just use a larger media. On coating removal I use aluminum oxide or garnet. The sharp edge profile leaves a similar surface to dry blasting but without the hassle of having to degrease first.
Cheers!
Some very good information in all your blasting cabinet videos! Started buying the parts for mine, so far I got a 1.1KW pump, a big metal 200 liter oil barrel as my parts are very long(6 cylinder head, front subframe), pneumatic air pedal, 3d printed gun. I was wondering if I should get sandblasting gloves or regular rubber gloves(for better feel of the part), will the water hurt? Also how long should the gloves be, the barrel is 60cm in diameter. Any other advice? I've got two compressors at 3.5HP total, 110 liters tanks. And a vacuum cleaner to clear the misting.
Hello Toyota, Thank you for commenting and congratulations on commenting to put together your own Vapor Blast System. Check out my video on using Harbor Freight's inexpensive chemical gloves for this purpose, I'm still using those gloves today. I can touch the back or my cabinet with them.
th-cam.com/video/oZTgCDl93Jo/w-d-xo.html
The air supply is going to be the trickiest part, if not enough you're going to need to take frequent breaks so the air supply can recover. My 5hp Ingersoll Rand 18.1 CFM 60 gallon with SS5 pump can barely handle the air demand without breaks to cool down if the sessions are really long.
The barrel project sounds super cool, please email me some pics or send a video link of it to vbared@gmail.com I'd love to see it completed.
Let me know if I didn't answer anything with enough detail.
Best of luck with your build.
@@vbared Thank you for the quick reply, just watched your glove video. How are they holding up two years later? Do you find it easier to hold objects compared to the sand blast gloves? Coincidentally these are the exact some gloves I was looking to get even tho I am in Europe.
My air wont be enough for sure, but first thing I will do is just start blasting and go from there. I have a car I will be restoring, after that I wont use the cabinet as often. I will either take breaks on bigger parts or suck it up and just buy a big compressor. Once I am done with the cylinder head and front subframe, the other stuff is small.
I was thinking about making a similar video inspired by you, so others can build their own barrel blaster. I will forward it to you.
Man I need to build that. Great detail on the instructions!
Hello Clint, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Vapor blasting is amazing and being able to get results like systems costing 10s of thousands for under $2000 (including the compressor) is the icing on the cake.
Best of luck with your build!
Hi VB, great video. Just wondering if you ever thought about re-assembling the cabinet using pop rivets instead of bolts/ nuts, at least on the main joints of cabinet & hopper below.
It would provide a smoother finish both inside & out. Obviously use silicone sealant and secure with rivet…? Any thoughts?
Thanks, Rob
Hi Robert, Thank you for commenting and rivet suggestion. That's sounds like an awesome solution to get rid of the protruding screws. The only place where you might want to keep the screws are areas that would support the mesh base if you decide to cut it down to gain some height inside the cabinet.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared thanks very much Victor. 😄
Great videos!! Full of great information, I'm close to testing mine out, but after watching this video, I'm going make a few changes. The top light is so simple and easy, way better then what I did. What size is your nozzle opening? Thanks again.
Hi Chad, thank you for commenting. I'm using an 8mm tip. You're going to love using the vapor blasting system. Hit me up if you have further questions.
Best of luck with your build.
Brilliant video, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Hello Keith, Thank you for your encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build.
Another banger! I'm def gonna look into this was already planning to build a cabinet for dry blasting (to prep turbo hot parts before cerakoting) but vapor blasting will leave a much nicer finish on tranny cases and engine covers than dry glass bead. Btw, did you ever live in Winston Park? I used to have a neighbor with an Evo and he was into autoX.
You're gonna love the wet blast system. Using extra fine glass bead media leaves a nice smooth to the touch finish on the softer metals unlike the rough surface that dry blasting leaves behind. The refinished cases are going to look better than when they were new. You're going to be blown away. If you are planning to strip a lot of powder coatings or rust then I would use a dry system. I grew up near The Falls shopping center.
Victor thanks for such useful content, are you able to re-use the media several times, is there a way to filter out the contaminates from the media and how often do you change out the water in the bucket ?
Hi Rob, thank you for commenting. Yes, the glass bead media can be used over and over again so long as you aren't blasting over 60 psi with it. The glass bead will shatter about 60 psi lose mass and develop sharp edges reducing speed and luster. Cleaning it out is simple, oil will float to the top of the water. Oil absorbing pads can be used to trap it. Most of the other bits of debris will be lighter than the glass beads and can be carefully poured out. Walmart has some inexpensive plastic shoe bins with lids that I keep my used media in. I briefly went over cleaning out the media in this video:
th-cam.com/video/LXoGc67tuEk/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best of luck with your projects!
Great video, Many thanks for making it
Thank you, implanecrazy, I appreciate you very much. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build.
Muy buen trabajo, siempre a la vanguardia, excelente video explicativo. Muchas gracias por compartir tu video un gran saludo desde la costa norte del estado de Sao Paulo Brasil.
Hola Tu Voz América, ¡Saludos desde Texas, Estados Unidos! Gracias por comentar y amabilidad. Me alegra que hayas encontrado valor en este video para tu tiempo de visualización. Uno de mis objetivos es viajar al extranjero Brasil está en mi lista de países para visitar. ¡Mucha suerte con tu proyecto!
@@vbared Im living on Ilhabela SP, its a very good place, welcome.
Thanks you.
Dear Victor, congratulations on this excellent video, I learned a lot. Is it possible to reuse ground glass several times? How can I separate the glass from the impurities that I have removed from the materials that I have subjected to the process? How many cubic feet per minute of air is required? How environmentally friendly is this method? I will be looking forward to your kind cooperation.
Hello German, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. Yes, the glass beads will last for several cleanings so long as blast pressure is below 60psi. I blast at 50psi to conserve air a keep the glass beads from shattering. My Ingersoll Rand has a 60 gallon tank and running the SS5 pump can produces 18 cfm at 50 psi. If you use a harder material like garnet you can blast between 60-100psi but will deplete the air supply faster. The blast media can be be refreshed to a point by emptying it out into a smaller container filled with water wait a few minutes for the blast media to settle to the bottom and pour out the dirty water. Oil will float to the top and can be absorbed using oil an absorbing mat to be disposed of responsibly. In my opinion wet blasting is more environmentally friendly than other methods since there is no need to disolve oil using chemicals.
Best of luck with your build!
Tio, superb video. Gracias. This is a master class in doing this on a budget and very thoughtful and detailed at the same time. Only one question, why 60psi when others say lower the better? Speed? Or surface finish? Or does surface finish suffer in the pursuit of speed?
Ha ha, my wife (from Madrid, España) tells me that adressing someone as tio is low class local Spanish slang. Perdoneme. :-)
Hello Fredio54, Thank you for your kind comments. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The type of material being vapor blasted, media type, and air compressor performance is what will determine the blast pressure. Glass beads shatter above 65psi so blasting at 60 PSI is about the max I would recommend. What I've found is that blasting anywhere between 50-60 PSI produces excellent results. 50 PSI conserves more air at the expense of some speed. 60 PSI is the fastest but depletes the air supply faster. If you run a compressor that can pump air at a rate of 20cfm or higher then you can blast at 60 PSI without having to wait for it to recover. The 60 gallon Ingersoll Rand SS5 compressor I use can flow 18.1 CFM at 90 PSI so can only blast at 60 PSI for about 30 minutes before having to wait for it to recover. When blasting at 50 PSI I don't have to wait because the compressor can fill the tank and shut down while I'm blasting.
A 2-step method that gives the best results for soft metals like aluminum, brass, and copper.. Start with 80 grit glass beads to decontaminate and then switch to 170-325 US sieve (aka extra fine) glass beads for the final polish.
Hello, no worries, I'm a Cuban Lebanese American. Tio is the Cuban word we use that means uncle.
@@vbared thanks for all the extra detail, much appreciated! I think my 3 cylinder compressor is about 12 CFM. I ran it continously with the regulator wide open wastefully dry blasting with 100-250 micron garnet outside, and the best it could do was 30psi. Next time I'll run it at 50-60 and stop when it drops under that. I have an extra tank inline from the compressor and a large ID retractable hose which flows well so I can dump my stored air fast and refill reasonably quickly, but fairly stable slow changing pressure. 30psi was still removing material, I only stopped and noticed when I ran out :-) for day to day tasks like dusting off or tyre top ups I dont turn it on often, the tank holds enough for a typical month and does not leak, isolated from the compressor which does slowly bleed down.
@@fredio54 That's great the extra capacity will surely benefit your setup.
Hey victor what micron and type of media are you using for this type of finish ? .... it looks amazing
Hello Jay, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Below is the list of media that I use and when I use them.
I mainly use two types of media garnet and glass bead. Three grits is all you need to get 90% of things done, 36 grit garnet (for stripping), 80 grit glass bead (stage one polish), and 170-325 US sieve glass bead (aka extra fine glass bead media) for the final polish. The 100 grit glass bead can be skipped unless that's the finish you're after.
36 Grit Garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F56
80 Grit Glass Bead - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html
170-325 US Sieve (aka Extra Fine Glass Bead Media) -www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13
Best of luck with your build!
Thanks for taking the time to post this video! How much do you think a system like you made would run?
Hi Mr10usdad, At the time of recording the system minus the compressor was just under $400. The video description should have the links to the parts I used to get the current prices.
This is such awesome information thank you so much
Hello Soullessone_edc, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build!
Hi, I have a question. You say the pump does 16500 L/h what how much kpa of pressure does it.?
Hello Paul, Thank you for commenting. Sorry, I don't have that spec but can tell you the head height is 10 meters. The system can be run with a smaller pump but for under $100 this pump is a very good deal. Just make sure whichever pump you decide on it must not be a grinder type. Originally I was using a dishwasher pump but the flow wasn't enough for my original eBay vapor blast gun but might work with a smaller air and nozzle orifice version.
best of luck with your projects!
Hi Victor, I'm still trying to figure out why you selected a high volume pump? 4500 GPH or thereabouts seems like overkill since your only pumping upwards of no more than 3 feet and reducing the output flow from 1 1/2" or thereabouts to 5/8" hose? what would be the disadvantage of using a low volume pump say under 1000 GPH?
Hello G RP, thank you for commenting. I'm sure you can use a smaller pump. The first pump in my system was a repurposed dishwasher pump that I picked up for $40. The problem I had with it was the media agitation. Playing around with media agitation hose position helped. The current pump I have in the system moves so much water that it's almost like a blender. So long as the media hose is in the bucket its position doesn't matter. The cost of my pump was also pretty low at under $70 shipped. Work with what's available in your market, stay within budget, and have fun playing around with your system.
Best of luck with your build.
Cheers!
@@vbared So as long as the pump I'm using will agitate the slurry enough and provide adequate flow to the gun I should be alright. Thanks again for the quick reply.Cheers! to you!
Hi Victor like the simplicity of your set up! This makes me want to convert as its not intimidating at all. I would line to know how many CFM’s does that IR compressor put out? Also have you thought of a way to add a (foot) switch to the pump and possibly the air? Lastly are you seeing any flash rust on any parts and if so what do you do about it?
Cheers
Hello TheRolfano, thank you for commenting. My head was also spinning when I first thought about building my own. There is so much incomplete, complicated, and expensive ways that I came across to build one that I had to put this video out there. Rust will be an issue when working with non stainless steel or iron. What I did when working with the cast iron pan was after each step of blasting I would towel dry it, blow it with compressed air, and finally heat gun the parts to stop most of the flash rust. If your plan is to paint the part I would go ahead and primer it. If it's a cast iron pan rub it with shortening, on tools you can spray them with WD40 and quick wipe.
These are the specs for my compressor:
Ingersoll Rand SS5L5, 5 HP, Single-Stage Comp, 60 Gal, Vertical, 135 PSI, 18.1 CFM, 1-Phase 230V
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared how Mate. For preventing a flash rust after the wet blast. U can mix your media slurry with Rust " inhibitor ".
@@asyrafhashim3735 Hello Asyraf, Thank you for commenting. Using a rust inhibitor with the slurry is genius. Is there a particular brand inhibitor you recommend?
Best of luck with your projects!
@Victor, I'm hoping you could assist me with a few questions;
1.)Has a "Monstrous" 4300 GPH pump proven necessary? Isn't it the air pressure which does the work? (Everyone claims they're cheap but in reality a decent pump like this runs North of $150 and losing half your pressure to agitation further makes me question the need for a 4300 GPH pump)
2.) Is the check valve really necessary? (Further contradicting the need for a high volume pump as this seems like a MAJOR restriction)
3.) Wouldnt the stock Harbor Freight trigger work with some simple mods (Drillbit, tap and fittings) vs purchasing a separate nozzle? (Doing this will also retain trigger capabilities)
Seems to me that if the air does the work that a static flow of water would equal what you're getting with a $100+ pump
Maybe I should just go spending a couple hundred and see what I get lol...
Ill post more questions as they come.
Hi Stuart, Thank you for commenting. The pump I'm using is just over $60 (link below). The main reason for the big pump is media agitation and type. 36 grit garnet will have a hard time flowing through a low flow pump. I played around with a dishwasher pump at first. It flowed OK but the media would collect in certain spots of the bucket.
www.ebay.com/itm/1-5HP-Water-Pump-Stainless-Steel-Clear-Dirty-Pool-Pond-Drain-/383284992030?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
The check valve goes on the air line not the water line. I went with a 1/2 barbed diesel fuel check valve to minimize the air flow restriction. Purchased it on eBay. Without the check valve in place the water and media will flow up the air line, foot pedal, regulator, and get into your compressor. You only want that media going out the nozzle, trust me. Even using a small pump you'll still require the check valve.
best of luck with your build.
@@vbared Thank You Sir
@@vbared Thanks for the explanation Victor. I was wondering the same thing and didn't realize it was on the air line initially.
Nice video. Watched it a few times. Already put the cabinet together and going to buy the SS 5 compressor. I'm going to clean aluminum motocross parts. Do you recommend a better air gun? And what medium should I use at what ratio? I'm excited about all of this. .. thanks in advance,. Daniel
Hello Daniel, Thank you for commenting! If you are following my setup and have your pump all set to go an inside the 5 gallon bucket then fill it 3/4 full of water and use 3 to 3 1/2 cups of media. Use 170-325 US Sieve (extra-fine) glass bead media for smaller parts around 4 inches cubed in size. When working with larger parts to avoid a blotchy finish it's best to use a 2 step approach. The first being 80 grit glass bead then switch the media to the extra-fine for the final finish. This is what's worked best for me. I only have experience with my first nozzle that has an 8mm tip. Check out AmouryEnterprises channel he goes into great detail with the nozzles.
th-cam.com/users/ArmouryEnterprisesvideos
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared I'm at lowes looking at wire. I can't find anything on what I need for the sl5 compressor. What guage wire and what amp breaker do I need? Thanks.
Good night. Do you use glass microsphere or sand along with the water?
Hello Edson, Thank you for commenting. I've settled the following material types and grits.
Stripping rust and paint:
36 grit garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F56
80 grit garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F54
Removing oxidation and surface contaminants:
80 grit glass bead - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html
Final stage polish:
170 - 325 US sieve (aka extra-fine glass bead) - www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13
Best of luck with your projects!
Nice video man, vapor Honing is amazing! How much would you say you got in total in your set up not including your air compressor?
Hello Smith Original, Thank you for commenting. It's truly incredible what can be accomplished with this process. If I remember correctly under $500. The description has the itemized costs at the time I made the video. Run down the list and add everything up less the compressor. This DIY cabinet is a work in progress. I think there are 5-6 additional things I've upgraded in later videos. Those extras may have added another $200, maybe.
The 10k+ cost of a commercial setup didn't make sense to me for occasional use. The same commercial results can be achieved with this budget setup.
Best of luck with your projects!
Awesome video! I currently have a harbour freight cabinet, with a bunch of mods, drop down bottom inside, dust deputy, etc. I currently use a Porter Cable 80 gallon 7hp compressor 175psi with 17.3 scfm at 100psi. Will this water pump work for that do you know? I use a foot operated SKAT BLAST S25 gun with a medium ceramic tip. Thanks!
Hi Rick, thank you for commenting. The media pump in this video has been working great for me. I'm sure it will work fine with other nozzles. I'm running an 8mm tip. Your compressor has an awesome flow rate at 100 psi. You shouldn't have any are issues.
Best of luck!
Thanks Victor!
Hello Mr. Bared, I know have asked this question before, but what media do you again? Thank you.
Hi Chad, Thank you for commenting. I've settled the following material types and grits.
Stripping rust and paint:
36 grit garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F56
80 grit garnet - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F54
Removing oxidation and surface contaminants:
80 grit glass bead - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html
Final stage polish:
170 - 325 US sieve (aka extra-fine glass bead) - www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13
Best of luck with your projects!
have you tried using a few drops of jet dry in the water to cut down on the mist cloud?
Hello GREGSGUNSONLINE, Thank you for commenting and the Jet Dry idea. I haven't tried adding anything to the water other than blast media. The mist usually gets taken care of by the vacuum but being able to see with all the water splash can be challenging. I've found that applying RainX to the inside over the 3M paint protective clear vinyl film, as well as Rain X anti-fog on the outside part of the glass, clears things up while I'm breathing on it. Both of these help to maximize visibility. The trouble with the Harbor Freight cabinet is the glass angle since it was designed for dry blasting. An angle more like 75 degrees would allow water to run off quickly making the Rain X more effective.
I can't complain too much it gets the job done for a hobby mechanic like myself. A commercial setting would benefit from a cabinet designed for wet blasting. All the internals work perfectly. The weakest link to the system is the cabinet.
Great work! Where did you find the white plastic on the door in Homedepot?
Hello EE101, Thank you for commenting and your kind words. It's standard vinyl flooring that Home Depot will cut for you. It's sold by the foot x 12ft long. Any color will work. but the light colors will reflect more light to improve visibility when blasting.
www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMaster-Limestone-Slab-Beige-Stone-Residential-Vinyl-Sheet-Flooring-12ft-Wide-x-Cut-to-Length-C6730284C534G14/300866858
Best of luck with your projects!
Where diid you get the plastic connector you got on your hose feom your bucket to the cabinet ??
Hello Pierre, Thank you for commenting. These are the parts links needed. Double-check that everything threads properly while you're at Home Depot.
Check Valve - amzn.to/3iGkxYX
Media Coupler - www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-3-4-in-PVC-FIP-x-FIP-Union-511-44-34-34H/204202889
Hose Barbs for coupler - www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4-in-Brass-PEX-Barb-x-3-4-in-Male-Pipe-Thread-Adapter-APXMA3434/301541030
Best of luck with your build
I was curious if a Husky 60 Gallon 11.5 cfm @90PSI would be decent enough to run a vapor blasting system just for the house when I want to clean some dirt bike parts?
Hello Micscience, Thank you for commenting. I would give it a try if that's what you have. A smaller nozzle tip like 6mm will ease the CFM demands. If the compressor doesn't stop running while your blasting you could simply give it a few minutes to catch up before continuing.
Best of luck with your projects!
Excellent demo and thanks for being very thorough!!! You got me interested now!!! Been holding off on buying the HF blast cabinet....I just wasn’t impressed but your system looks great!! How does it do with heavy rust removal?? 🙏
Hello Outdoorzone, thank you for commenting. I did a rusty cast iron refinishing video here: th-cam.com/video/f5ngwSeXo78/w-d-xo.html
What worked best for me to remove heavy rust was to use 36 grit garnet. It's about the size of coarse salt and very sharp edges (caution it will scratch the viewing glass if not protected with some kind of film). It will take some time if blasting at 60 psi which is the limit of my compressor without having to wait for it to recover. Blasting the garnet at 90 PSI is faster but more taxing on the compressor. If you are using a compressor with a bigger pump and larger tank you may not need to stop to give the compressor time to recover. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your build.
@@vbared Ok that’s sounds good!! I have the same AC as you but it’s the 80 gallon version. Thanks for advice! I will check out your rust video!!!
What is the purpose for this PVC pipe coupler at 17:34? Why not use a female to male hose connection that has the same diameter throughout?
Hello G RP, thank you for commenting. The pump that I bought had a stepdown transition tube that I cut leaving the 1" tread part to connect the PVC tee. The reason for the tee is so I could split the water flow. 1 short piece with its end wire tied to the base of the pump to swirl the media around. The top of the tee would pump water to the nozzle. The reducers made lining everything up easy for me.
www.ebay.com/itm/1-5HP-Water-Submersible-Pump-Stainless-Steel-Silver-Clear-Dirty-Pool-Pond-Drain/353072228123?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 60.99+tax
www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-4-oz-Purple-Primer-and-CPVC-Cement-Handy-Pack-30234/203561639 7.70+tax
www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-4-in-x-1-in-PVC-Sch-40-SPG-x-FPT-Reducer-Bushing-PVC021081000HD/203811585 1.44+tax
www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-4-in-PVC-Sch-40-S-x-S-x-S-Tee-PVC024001200HD/203812201 2.42+tax
www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-4-in-x-3-4-in-PVC-Sch-40-Reducer-Bushing-PVC-02108-0950HD/203851140 1.44+tax will need 2
www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-4-in-Brass-PEX-Barb-x-3-4-in-Male-Pipe-Thread-Adapter-APXMA3434/301541030 2.82+tax will need 4
I hope I answered your question.
Cheers!
Hey Victor excellent explanation of how you hooked this all up. I was just about to set mine up with the metering valve etc. for dry blasting, but this with no dust, is amazing and has changed my direction. Does this set up work with the gun that comes with the cabinet?, I have the Canadian equivalent "Power Fist" from Princess Auto. Thanks so much!
Hi Trev, Thanks again for commenting and kindness. Unfortunately, the included gun doesn't have the correct entry angle to properly work with vapor blasting. I've been using a 3D printed vapor blast gun that I designed for over a year now. I have a physical kit available on Amazon in the US and the digital version on my Shopify store for anyone that can't get the premade kit. All you need to do if Amazon won't ship one to you is find a local 3D printer and have them print one for you. Check out my video linked below for more details. Purchase links are in the video description.
th-cam.com/video/4WWT7O3rxwU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks so much, I’ll check it out! Trev.
CFMS. BUDDY. THATS VERY IMPORTANT TO KNOW.
Hello Chatty, thank you for commenting. 18.1 CFM at 90 psi is what's rated for the Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 Single Stage Air Compressor. I haven't measured it myself at the blast cabinet to see what the number is after all the plumbing while blasting. I'll have to produce a video to include that test.
Best of luck with your projects!
Excellent video sir. I appreciate your effort but the parts list especially. I plan on building a vapor hone cabinet this summer. Wondering if you’ve discovered anything you’d possibly have done differently since your initial build? Thanks again.
Hello Echotoday, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I updated the parts list and added the related videos at the bottom of the description. Check the descriptions of each for the part links.
If you have any questions about the build feel free to contact me by phone +1 478-227-3301
Best of luck with your build!
Does the vaccum end up with media in it?? I'm converting my cabinet to vapor hopefully. Good video.
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. Yes, some of the media will end up in the vacuum. Adding a long smooth chimney or running a separator can help recover the lost media and return it to the reservoir.
amzn.to/49LeiM6
Hello, do you have any good suggestions on how to keep parts from flash rusting after vapor blasting, and something that will not effect the appearance to much? Thank you.
Hi Chad, Thank you for commenting. I would blow the part off with compressed air and spray it with WD-40 give it a wipe to remove any flash rust that may have started. What type of part are you working with?
Phosphoric acid to prevent flash rusting
Hi Victor very nice pice of equipment one question I have in mind don’t under stand that valve on the top of the compressor you talked about ? Sorry for 🤪 can you explain it a bit more and do you need it 👍🇬🇧
Hello Wayne,
Thank you for commenting. Check out this airflow chart I made for you. Let me know if something is unclear.
drive.google.com/file/d/1N8XHOAfTOg2Rt_NgPMzbZxnwVhXghlLX/view?usp=sharing
Cheers!
Hi victor think I got it don’t know why to can’t put a package together of all the parts you need to modify and make a small profit 😁🇬🇧
Wayne 👍
Hello, great machine, could you tell me what diameters are using in your air gun set? Thanks.
Hello Gabriel, Thank you for commenting. I'm currently running a V3 3D printed blast gun. It has a 4mm air jet and 10mm tip.
Best of luck with your projects!
Basic-basic question: why go slurry/wet/vapor to begin with? (I feel like I missed the first video...) Does this method use less air? Give finer finishing than you could get by just downsizing your media? I could see wanting to do this outdoors, where contaminating your work area or the environment in general (or your neighbors) would be a big problem, but this is a cabinet system, so...what's the deal?
Hello David S, Thank you for commenting. Your question is a great one. Originally I was going to use a dry blast system. In my opinion having both would be ideal since exposing untreated steel and iron to water results in flash rust. I went wet to not have to deal with degreasing parts prior to sand blasting, concerns about dust or chemical inhalation, and worries about warping thin metals due to heat build up. In a wet setup I can take a nasty greasy part, clean, remove oxidation, and polish all at once. Thin parts don't heat up and warp because the water keeps the temperature in check. Blasting pressure is between 30 - 60 psi. These are the main reasons for me to start of with a wet system. It really depends on the work. Powder coat stripping can be done in a wet system but a dry setup would make short work of it. If I was to use a dry system it would be for stripping coatings and rust.
Best of luck with your projects.
@@vbared Good reasons - well, for me, GREAT in the case of the degreasing issue (I'm seldom concerned with thin metal and almost never trying to restore thinly-plated stuff without coating the living hell out of it with epoxy or some such - and pickle that stuff after drip-drying).
Anyway do you have a video that illustrates the degreasing? I'm having a hard time imagining the flow-process whereby the grease gets taken out of your way (or maybe it's not entirely automatic). I did read a description from a commercial mfr that indicated their system 'overflows' at some point in their closed-loop process and the lighter (grease, oil, spent grit fines) has a chance to be separated for disposal. I might guess that in your system you could approximate the same thing by adding a trickle of water, calibrated to outflow your pumped slurry usage, but there's probably a better way.
What's the practical limit to the grit-size that can be slurried? I'm often confronted with horrifyingly-deep corrosion cells (those black magnetite-filled pits) and they always are the hardest thing to remove - and slowest of all with finer abrasive.
@@davids1681 Hello, David, My system is super simple. If I'm dealing with a lot of grease and the slurry water is looking really bad I'll just stop wait for the oil to rise up to the top of the media bucket and pick it up with an oil absorbing sheet. It only takes a few minutes for that to happen once the pump is off. If the water has a lot of non-oil particles that need removing I'll do the same thing stop wait for the media to settle to the bottom this time and syphon out all but an inch of water above the settled media. I've recently added a separator to recover the media that used to be lost to the vacuum filter.
Cheers!
if the air is pushing slurry back down to the water pump , what is the best way to trouble shoot? thank you
Hello Drifting, thank you for commenting. Another viewer had the same problem and found some debris partially blocking the main nozzle. If that doesn't solve the issue check to make sure that your air supply line is on the top straight path and slurry is on the bottom part that makes the turn. Send a picture link if you still have issues so I can see your plumbing routes.
Best of luck!
@@vbared was using a 3MM nozzle, switched to 8mm and the problem stopped. System worked good on Monday and ok the next day (4:05 on your video) Think the glass got too shattered. Still working out some bugs. Thank you
How long did the actual cleaning process take? Was the basting portion of the video sped up? Based on the video time, it took about 2 minutes to do it. Is this accurate time or did you speed up the video? If sped up, how long is the actual cleaning time?
Hello Pavel, Thank you for commenting. The cleaning part of the video is sped up 2X it took about 5 minutes at normal speed. Small aluminum parts that fit in the palm of you hand don't take long at all about 5 minutes. Large parts like a vehicle valve cover can take hours to clean and polish. On large parts using 80 grit glass beads first to cut through the corrosion and then followed by 170-325 US sieve (aka extra fine glass beads) for the final polish gets you professional results. The parts come out looking brand new. Coating removals take much longer. I have a video on restoring 4 Brembo calipers to showroom new condition took about a week. first few days was just removing the old powder coat.
Best of luck with your projects!
I have been watching your videos and they are really good. Can you tell me what advantage there is to wet blasting over dry blasting?
Hello Richard, Thank you for commenting. and encouraging words. Your question is a great one. Originally I was going to use a dry blast system. In my opinion having both would be ideal since exposing untreated steel and iron to water results in flash rust. I went wet to not have to deal with degreasing parts prior to sand blasting, concerns with dust or chemical inhalation, and worries about warping thin metals due to heat build up. In a wet setup I can take a nasty greasy part, clean, remove oxidation, and polish all at once. Thin parts don't heat up and warp because the water keeps the temperature in check. Blasting pressure is between 30 - 60 psi. These are the main reasons for me to start of with a wet system. It really depends on the work. Powder coat stripping can be done in a wet system but a dry setup would make shorter work of it. If I was to use a dry system it would be for stripping coatings and rust for everything else I would go wet.
Best of luck with your projects
@@vbared Great information! I have got to build one now for greasy car parts that I am always having to use degreaser on. I wonder what kind of pump will last the longest pumping the slurry. I assume yours is a centrifugal pump, it looks like a sump pump. Thanks for your fast reply.
The ductless blasting guys told me that wet works better on powdercoating because it doesnt heat up the PC and make it a gummy sticky mess...is that your experience?
@@T0tenkampf Hello ApexSun, Thank you for commenting. I don't have any personal experience with a dry system but have seen many videos on dry systems used in removing powder coatings. Sand blasting usually is done just under 100 psi. Wet blasting is 50-60 psi and the water further softens the impact. Powder coat is super tough and weakening it by marinating parts in aircraft stripper for 24 hours and using 36 grit garnet on it worked best for me.
Wow! This is well done Sir!!! I am a bit stuck with one thing... the nozzle? The link you have gets to a 3D print site. Now as I am completely new to this I wonder what exact nozzle I need. I am in Canada so supply is not quite as plentiful as it is down South... Thanks for the amazing video, cant wait to build me one!
Hello Bruno, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I started off using an eBay nozzle with an 8mm tip like this one:
ebay.us/QnJFao
If you have a big compressor that can operate at 18cfm at 50-60 psi and up consider the 10mm tip. After some time using the eBay-style blast gun I learned several things.
1 - Its weight caused hand and wrist fatigue during long blasting sessions.
2 - The two different angles of the media and air hoses took up a lot of room inside, and would get caught up on large parts.
3 - Another issue was the shape of it which had a hook at the top making it uncomfortable to hold.
4 - large tips were expensive $25 - $45 US each.
The eBay-style gun was originally designed to be used with a pressure washer so comfort and weight were never thought about during the design.
Check out my video on why I chose to use a 3D printed vapor blast gun instead of what's currently available.
You will need to have and know how to use a 3D printer to make use of the digital download file on my Shopify store.
th-cam.com/video/4WWT7O3rxwU/w-d-xo.html
Hit me up with any questions. Vapor blasting is a super cool hobby and business to get into.
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared You are just amazing Victor! I cant believe how quickly you answered. People like you make the Internet a lot of fun... I will start with the "regular" nozzle and try with my 2 small compressors hooked up parallel. It will be a bit painful as there will be waiting time but its a start, right? The follow up question would be - are you selling your DIY nozzles?
Hi Bruno, Thanks again for your kindness. Tom left this comment below about his two 3 HP linked compressors. If your setup is similar you should be fine. The eBay gun will definitely get you started with this hobby and changing it out for something else is fairly easy to do. I'm working with one of your Canadian neighbors on getting him a physical kit. Shipping international is new to me but I'm sure with some persistence I can make it happen. Send me an email vbared@gmail.com when you're ready. I'm sure I'll have it figured out by the time you need it.
"Once again awesome idea. I’ve downloaded and printed the V3 gun, and am happily using it. I’ve got about 30hrs use on it so far, and can I say it’s a beast. Gets the work done soo much faster and is much more ergonomic. I’ve got it hooked up to 2 x 3hp compressors linked together and I never run out of air. Great product." - Tom Clark
Cheers!
@@vbared Hey Victor. I am slowly making progress, certainly quite a bit thanks to you! I was lucky enough to find a 18.5cfm compressor locally so that part is covered. Now I am building my cabinet for the first tests... I have one more question if I may... well, there are many more but I try to be reasonable... lol My "dream" is to do an entire motorcycle engine assembled. Its 40 years old, has some paint, oxidation and crud on it (I did de-gunk it already quite a bit). Now theoretically I would be very hesitant to just plug the holes and blast an engine but I will need to take this one apart and rebuild some components anyway so even if I would somewhat screw up I can fix things... now to the question - what media would you use on it? There are 2 kind of finishes I would need in the end. A) the engine block (cylinder, etc) would need some silver paint and B) parts I would like shiny (valve cover, alternator cover, etc) Is the 36 grit garnet OK on all the parts for a first vapor blast? My thought is do a first pass with garnet and then with 80 grit glass beads. They dont have the finer stuff locally at this point. Thank you kindly if you have time to answer, otherwise I completely understand that u have better things to do than answer all the newbies stuff...
@@1150bbeemer Hi Bruno, I appreciate your kindness and thank you for the comment interactions. Send me an email to vbared@gmail.com so I can exchange information with you. Maybe we can setup a zoom or phone call so I can better answer these and any other questions you might have.
Also I have that same compressor, how do you keep it from over heating? Mine runs super hot when I try to use it for blasting.
Hello Beach&BoardFan, I point a big fan down at compressor fins. The tank is going to be hot just because of the squeezing air action.
@@vbared Damn I do the same. My pump gets super hot. I've resorted to putting some copper plates on it and using a 36" shop fan to cool it.
great video !!! one question ... will the glass spheres break the pump turbine?
Hello Marco, thank you for commenting. The dirty water pumps are designed to pump water out muddy water from ditches. I haven't had any problems using it with the glass beads (various grits) and 36 grit garnet which has sharp edges and looks like very coarse coffee grinds. Only time will tell but so far so good.
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared great !! .. you have given me great news! Greetings from Villa La Angostura Argentina
Not sure if posted this, but what brand of media do you use? Thanks.
Hi Chad, thank you for commenting. My current source for blast media is:
www.grainger.com/search/abrasives/abrasive-blasting/abrasive-blasting-media?tv_optin=true&searchQuery=blast+media&searchBar=true&suggestConfigId=1
Glass beads for cleaning and polishing, garnet and aluminum oxide for stripping rust, paint, and powder coats.
Let me know if you need more detail.
Good Demo thanks for sharing
Hello Andy, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your projects!
Boa noite . Junto coma água vc usa micro esfera de vidro ou areia?
Olá Edson, obrigado por comentar. Eu resolvi os seguintes tipos materiais e grãos.
Descascando ferrugem e tinta:
36 granadas de grão - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F56
80 granadas de grão - www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Garnet-Blast-Media-402F54
Remoção de oxidação e contaminantes superficiais:
80 contas de vidro - www.harborfreight.com/50-lb-glass-bead-80-grit-abrasive-media-61874.html
Polonês da fase final:
170 - 325 peneira dos EUA (também conhecida como contas de vidro extrafinas) - www.grainger.com/product/BALLOTINI-Glass-Beads-Blast-Media-6ZC13
Boa sorte com seus projetos!
I have been dry blasting for years with lots of diffent media, depending on the job. I just heard of the vapor blaster the other day. What benefits are there besides no dust? Thanks
Hi Robert, Thank you for commenting. Aside from being dustless, there is no need for the parts to be grease free. Wet blasting will produce a better finish than dry blasting on soft metals and doesn't generate any heat which can cause some thin parts to warp.
Good morning.. thank you to share this project with us.. i have question.. i just finished mine and i did and used all parts you did.. everything work but is look like when i push air it goes back in the water hose pushing it back to the pump.. do you know or have any suggestions?? Thank you
Hello, MIrko, thank you for commenting. Is your air hose connected to the top fitting on your nozzle and water on the bottom? Do you have the check valve on the air line? Double check those and let me know if that solves the problem.
@@vbared problem solved...the nozzle was clogged with a ziptie...works perfect now..thank you again!!
@@mrk973mrk Awesome! Have fun using your new system.
Hi Victor, thank for the subscribe Made some headway on my build today I got the vinyl for the glass. and Flexzilla hose. Learning a lot from your build. Making a few experiments of my own along the way as well.
I think I bought way more pump than needed though. Got a 3/4HP "Sewage Grinder" Pump. 2" outlet. Is your pump the same type but 1/2HP? I followed the link but it only says "submersible pump". The place I bought mine from had a 1/2HP "sump pump" with a 1/14 outlet. I can still exchange and would certainly be cheaper than the one I bought.
Does this pump need to be rated for solids at all? I am guessing a stainless pump is recommended. Seen one that has a thermoplastic impeller but shouldn't rust but not sure how long it would last?
Hello Twisted Tuner, You're welcome! This link below is to the exact pump I'm using. You don't want a pump that grinds it will damage the blast media. All the fittings in my build video will work perfectly with the pump below. I don't have any personal experience with a plastic pump version but If the outlet and specs is similar to the one below it should work just fine. My stainless pump's body is rusting a bit near the base since I always leave it in the media bucket filled with water. The impeller is plastic if I remember correctly. I'll have to confirm if you want to know for sure.
www.ebay.com/itm/353072228123?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338718717&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Hit me up with any questions you have along the way. I'd be happy to help.
Best of luck with the build.
@@vbared I finally found one that will ship to Canada. It should be here Friday! Pretty much exactly the same as yours.
Something that has been rolling around in my head is... Do you think the float switch is just a "2 wire DRY Contact" made by the float operating it?
I would like to have a foot switch for the pump as well maybe even a maintained/off type contact. If there is no real power going through the circuit I have a couple of foot switches that could do the job.
Hi Twisted Tuner, I'm confident that a foot switch would operate it just fine. I found this picture of what's most likely inside the float switch you'll be getting with your pump.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1U_Nb0HJfDo_yUq2pYAE2v5UCVnNNHl1z
Best of luck with your projects.
@@vbared I cut open the float switch and found that there was about 1" metal ball that would press a switch when it float. This switch is INDEED connected to the power circuit! It interrupts the power from the plug to the pump. It is N/C and unless pressed in will provide power to the pump. Important to know if one decides to use a foot switch to turn on and off the slurry pump. This switch will need to handle power and current of the pump. as well be isolated correctly so as to protect from electrocution. I would recommend that this always be connected to a GFCI oultet as a precation as well.
@@AlteredEagle Hello AlteredEagle, Yep, you got it, the float switch is super handy as is, modified to be foot or switch activated. Wait until you get it together and running, the results will blow you away.
Great video very informative. I've done exactly the same setup as you, I've run into a issue though the media doesn't seem to agitation very well. I'm using 11000 watt pump. Any diffent ideas to remedy this
Hi Ryan, thank you for commenting. Please take a picture of your pump setup outside of the media container so I can see how your plumbing looks and past a link in your reply.
@@vbared thanks for replying will do in morning. Its 23:45 here in the UK lol
What kinda return on investment has this brought you? I mean if you’ve used it to provide it as a service. Because I can’t justify doing this just to clean up parts for a single motorcycle I’m rebuilding, or any other personal job. Definitely produces amazing results
Hello Jonny Hypebeast, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm a hobby mechanic so for me it was all about restoring parts on my older cars. My 2004 Mitsubishi Evolution 8 had started to show its age. The Brembo calipers were looking very bad. Having them redone would have cost me over $1000. I'm planning on restoring the valve cover soon $250 to have it done or $400 to replace it. I could easily charge $50-75 per hour in my local market just to clean up motor cycle parts if I wanted to make a business of it. The most expensive part of this endeavor has been the air compressor to run it. I used a small 20 gallon 1.5hp to run my smaller air tools for years but couldn't run the bigger impact tools or drills so for me upgrading the compressor was justified. It really boils down to budget, will you actually use the system to restore enough of your own parts to recover most of the expense? If yes then build one but if you just like the idea of being able to to do this kind of work only then don't.
Hopefully my response helps you decide. If you asked me again today if I would do it again? My answer would be, yes, for sure.
Best of luck with your projects!
Hi there, I heard you mention a Tacoma kit? Maybe Im hearing it wrong. I dont see a link for that. Thanks for the great vid!
Hello Axl, Thank you for commenting and kindness. They used to have an eBay store but it looks like they are no longer maintaining it (linked at the bottom). They had a bunch of metal parts, metering valves, foot pedals and sandblast gun. If you're planning on vapor blasting consider the kit I put together and have been using for the last year.
amzn.to/3NflgiD
Check out my video of it in action restoring a set of Brembo calipers.
th-cam.com/video/afBccMhvRBI/w-d-xo.html
www.ebay.com/str/tacomacompany?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JFICCHeNR7O&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
i have used a air footpedal , the pressure from the waterpump was so high it backfed intoo the airline through the nozzle and leaked out the airregulator and the pedal , made a big mess of the floor and ruined the regulator
Hello watahyahknow, thank you for commenting. I had the same issue when I first started testing this setup. A diesel fuel check valve installed on the air line just after it enters the cabinet before the nozzle will keep that from happening. I talk about and mention the importance of it in this video at 12:40 seconds.
The current location of my check valve:
drive.google.com/uc?id=1BjBO55B8OBgL0NWEbHB5-317IhbtQeql
Where to buy the same check valve I'm using:
www.ebay.com/itm/2-Aluminum-Alloy-1-2-Inch-12mm-Fuel-Non-Return-One-Way-Check-Valve-Diesel-Petrol-/124233930125
Best of luck with your projects!
Thanks for a great video!
Hello Balthazar, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Большо спасибо тебе друг. Твоё видео лучшее. Жаль я плохо понимаю язык. 👍
Здравствуйте Станислав Сидорчук, С Новым Годом из Техаса! Спасибо за комментарии и добрые слова. Видео и изображения упрощают общение на разных языках. Удачи тебе, мой друг.
@@vbared И тебя с новым годом. 🤝
Great vid. Could you add the info on the Tacoma upgrade you used for the air intake/exhaust ports to your parts list. Thanks
Hi David, I'll create a more detailed video on that part soon.
@@vbared👌
Ha Vic . Do you sell any of the 3d printed parts you made for the venting system IE inlet , discharge and top cover for the discharge ... Thanks ...
Hello Armond, Thank you for commenting and consideration in supporting my work. Yes, I have a kit with the following parts. Please email me vbared@gmail.com your shipping information so I can quote the total cost.
Harbor Freight vac port $20
Intake splash shield $15
Vac chute cover & cabinet plugs $ 5
@@vbared Thanks . I'll be in touch ...