Hi Charlie, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. You'll be extremely rewarded once you restore your first part, it's truly amazing. Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared thanks for the words of encouragement. I'm looking forward to getting started. I have a small house in the suburbs with no garage so I'm in the process of turning my front room into my work area. Do you have a link to the pump you are using? That's pretty much the last thing I need to buy. Thanks again for the help 👍
@@charliebelmonte7921 Hi Charlie, That's awesome, I bet you're excited to get it put together. I recently purchased a replacement pump after 4 years of service from the previous one. What I'm going to do different with this new one is pour out the water and dry off the pump when not in use. The previous one developed rust around the shaft and eventually seized. www.ebay.com/itm/354852274910?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k9kwre_jq1q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=w67HWhT5QMO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Have fun with the build, please send some pictures vbared@gmail.com of your setup and restored parts, I'd love to see it.
Hello Tom, Thank you for your kind words and support. Please upload a video of it blasting so we can check out how it works with your setup. Enjoy your new tool!
You are doing a really great job with this vapor blasting, its amazing that you also share your STL files..thanks a lot. Since this a hobby all people needs to share his experiences to build together a better machine. I have the big eBay gun with boron tip, 7.5 mm nozzle and 4 mm air jet, I have enough air supplied by a 7.5hp 80 gal compressor, but want found this week its that im loosing a lot of flow, caused by an open flow pattern, at least half of flow is wasted, without any cleaning action . Since I don't have a 3d printer, but have a lathe I make a Steel nozzle, and results are amazing, I used same diameter but a long nozzle (65 mm instead of 30) but with a bigger and smooth slope on nozzle entry, to allow fluid enter inside without making too much turbulence, which causes high pressure inside gun, smooth and bigger cone makes both fluids came together making a laminar pattern flow which exits the nozzle with a closed pattern flow without any turbulence or bubbles, this closed pattern flow speeds up cleaning time...you should try making one of this way, im sure you will have a better results.
Hello Rodolfo, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Like you mentioned, I also found that a longer tip that transitioned smoothly on the inside from the cone entry to the exit tightened up the spray pattern and increased blast pressure. You need to purchase a 3D printer and learn to use CAD software if you already understand how to shape objects using the different lathe cutting tips. CAD is essentially the same thing but you're using digital cutting tips to work on a digital piece of stock. The 3D printer makes the digital files a reality. It will take your lathe work to another level. You can put together an awesome 3D printer for under $500. Look for my complete Ultimate Ender 3 V2 build list in the video description linked below. th-cam.com/video/ct6YCIUxyHg/w-d-xo.html Best of luck with your projects!
I was in the midst of designing my own 3D printed blasting gun last year using Catia. The only thing left was to learn how to model the threads since Catia does not have that function built into it. I recently came across your video and decided since your design was so close to mine but yours was ready to go I would go that route. This thing has at least twice the volume of slurry that my old DIY gun had - similar design to Armoury Enterprises design using brass in-line filter. I foresee a windshield wiper in my future with all the extra splash this thing has now. The problem I have right now is cavitation. My compressor is approx. 19cfm and working pressure was set to 65psi. If I slow the air down by closing my ball valve 1/2 way it seems to go away. Even with the increased volume of slurry it seems the cavitation is making the gun less efficient. Any idea how to remedy this? Smaller nozzle? Also, you should include in the text file with the download the recommended printer settings for infill ratio, supports, etc. I printed it with the nozzle end pointing up and broke the air jet tip off while removing supports. I will try to reprint with the nozzle end down next time. Thanks again.
Hello Shawn, Thank you for commenting, feedback, and supporting my work. The .STL files in the package can be combined in different ways to tweak the flow for your specific setup. There are 3 air jet variations of gun bodies, and 3 different sized tips. All of the parts are designed to print without supports. The main vapor blast gun body prints with the nozzle facing up and garden hose connectors facing down. Print all in PETG, use brim, combing (not in skin), infill 20%, wall count 10, top/bottom 8, and use gyroid pattern. The collar prints with the flat side down, skirt enabled, no supports, and the rest of the settings are the same as the vapor blast gun body. Tips print flat side down, brim, no supports. Check out this video of my Ender 3 V2 printing the tool parts. th-cam.com/video/wIsHZF9QhPc/w-d-xo.html Please let me know if I missed anything.
@@vbared Just purchased the download files, and I agree that it would be helpful to include the print settings you mention above in the .txt file that's included. It's a little time consuming to dig back through old TH-cam comments to find them. It'll be interesting to see how it comes out. PrusaSlicer is claiming 12 hours 6 minutes for print time on a Mk3S+. I'd like to see what it would be on a Mk4 or Bambu Carbon X1 with input shaping.
@@JCWren Hello JCWren, Thank you for supporting my work. All the parts should load into the slicer properly oriented for printing. Print in PETG, no supports, use 10 walls, 10 top and bottom, 18% gyro infill, 10 wall brim for the V3 blast gun body, and nozzle tips. The collar doesn't need a brim. I recently updated the collar and your message reminded me to verify the print orientation. It should have the flat side of the collar facing down, threads facing up. Give me a call with any questions 478-227-3301
@@vbared Victor, I'd like to offer one other suggestion for the gun and perhaps the nozzles. Embed the nozzle diameter on the nozzle, and the air jet size on the gun like you've done with the 'VB'. Also maybe an 'A' next to the air port and a ''M' next to the media port. Thoughts?
@@JCWren Hi John, I think debossing the tip opening diameter is a great idea. It would even be helpful to me when sorting inventory. On the input side, I feel that a quick glance inside each intake port will identify the air side vs media. Thank you for the valuable feed back. Happy Vapor Blasting!
Hi Dridful, please check out the comment from UcantBeSerious03, He's running a 2hp 30 gallon. The link to his compressor is included. Check those specs against yours and see if they are comparable. If you decide to purchase the .STL files it will include two different blast gun bodies one will have a 3mm air jet (smaller compressor) and the other a 4mm (bigger compressors).
@@vbared yeah I’m sure mine will run it n if for some reason it can’t I have plenty air about 61 gallons, n reason I said I’ll buy it is because I don’t have a 3D printer yet :/
@@dridful1057 Your bringing up a great point. Many DIYers probably haven't had the need for a 3D printer. I'll see if I can create a kit that includes both blast gun bodies, tips, collars, hose adapters, check valve, and clamps. That way subscribers don't have to spend $100s just to 3D print the tool they need. Thank you for bringing up this point.
Hi UcantBeSerious03, The 3mm air orifice should reduce air consumption by 50% vs the 4mm without sacrificing much performance. Let me know how it works for you. Thanks again for supporting my work and giving valuable feedback.
Hi victor, i have purchased the stl file. Do you maybe have any instructions or video how to print it? Because i printed one but water is leaking from all sides
Hi Melvin, Thank you for supporting my work. Sure, give me a call tomorrow so we can figure out what's going on 478-227-3301 I screen new calls so just leave me a message and I'll call you right back.
This is a great explanation. This channel is awesome. I LOVE the idea of using low cost materials from 3D printing to substitute the consumable/wear parts. Cheap 8 dollar ceramic tip is $8. Print 16 of those for the price and you also have a moving living design that can keep giving more options. It's not locked into a high cost manufacturer. I would rather have a part I can print and replace in less than 2 hours than waiting to buy a manufactured part. This technique is massively underrated/unknown as of now. This will get traction.
Hello Brad, Thank you for your kind words. The ability to print things on demand is really cool. I'm hooked on CAD and 3D printing. Currently running on the 3D printer is a 1/3 lb hamburger patty press. It's a long print but should be ready by morning. We're getting ready for BBQ this Independence Day.
Hello Thomas, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you're finding value in these videos for your viewing time. I print all my parts using SUNLU PETG linked below is the exact one I use. amzn.to/3TF4DlF Happy New Year!
Hi Michael J, Thank you for commenting and supporting my work. They are standard garden hose threads. 26.4mm diameter 2.0mm pitch. Home Depot has a hose mender made by Obit. It's gold in color and fits perfectly. Some are too wide in diameter and won't fit without some modifications to them.
@@vbared since you used hose threads, I might as well take advantage and get a small leader hose and just cut the other end to grab onto a barb. Thanks for the reply!
Good morning KNB, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Welcome to the channel! I'm using and Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon with the SS5 pump. m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_211720_211720? Let me know if you have any more questions. Best of luck with your projects.
Hello Dridful, You're gonna enjoy the 3D printer. It's super cool to go from a design to a physical object in a few hours. I need to address this in my own system as well. What I was thinking about using is a rubber glove with the hand part removed. This would create a flexible chute that can be directed to any side of the media pump but not interfere with the media bucket removal. Something like this would work but I'm sure a less expensive dishwashing set of gloves can be used. www.harborfreight.com/rubber-blasting-gloves-4468.html
@@vbared yeah I’ve used a dish washing glove but came to find out that with it being outside n the weather it broke down after a while but I’ll try the HF ones and maybe it’ll hold up
@@vbared muchas gracias por contestar acá en Uruguay no es tan común usar microesferas solo con arena de playa además los instrumentos hay que importarlos y son carismos una cabina común stands cuesta unos 500 dólares acá y el blasting casi 90 dólares los 25 kilos y ni pensar conseguir las pistolas de chorro por menos de 400 dólares profecional un compresor de 3 hp 100 litros mínimo 500 dólares las pistolas de 3d para vapor que venden por Amazon hay que hacerles algo para mejorar el rendimiento?
Hello Mr. ManChannel, Thank you for commenting and purchase. When an update is made you'll receive an email with an invitation to download new files. Please let me know if you have any additional questions. Best of luck with your projects!
With the wisdom of 2 years, have you gone back to ceramic or boron nitride tips so you can forget them and not constantly check for wear and not get variation in performance over time etc? Also not generate microplastics that enter the water cycle through your sewer. Genuine question.
Hello Fredio54, I still use the 3D printed gun and tips for vapor blasting. You won't be wearing out tips at a rate that you need worry about when blasting with glass bead media as a hobby mechanic. If you plan on removing powder coatings and rust the majority of the time a dry system is best. In that case I would just purchase some 6mm Eastwood ceramic tips to use in the V3 3D printed gun. amzn.to/46udU3U The V3 3D printed gun is made out of PETG which is a food grade plastic. It's the same material that takeout food trays are made from. Oils, aluminum, and other materials being removed should be the focus of concern.
Hello Salt, Thank you for supporting my work. What trouble did you have with your purchase and how did you resolve it? Your feedback will be valuable in assisting others that might encounter the same issue. Have fun putting together your new system.
@@vbared for some reason when I used Firefox, the Paypal popup worked but gave an error all the time. I then used Chrome and it worked fine. Using the gun for the past 2 weeks, and works GR8 thx
@@Totalygazed Hi SALT, Thanks again for supporting my work. I'm blown away every time I vapor blast parts myself. Being able to restore things to looking brand new using a home brewed system is amazing to me still. Best of luck with your projects!
Hello Curlybrownk9, Thank you for commenting. I print everything in PETG, it's strong, hard to sand, file and exposure to sunlight temps up to 170f don't bother it at all. PLA in a hot garage will deform over time.
@@vbared thank you for your reply, looking foward to printing and vapor blasting, printable nozzle is definitely the way to go. PETG makes sense. Thanks.
Hi Stephen Densmore, What size air jet are you needing 3mm (under 5hp smaller tank compressor) or 4mm (5hp 60 gallon 18.1 cfm or larger)? You can send your details to vbared@gmail.com so I can figure out the shipping and send you a detailed price quote. Thank you for your interest.
Hello smartroadster452, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I haven't tried using it in a dry system but can tell you that it syphons. If I have the slurry pump off and activate the air only it will draw the water from the slurry bucket and blast it out the nozzle. I would have to test the original sand blast gun that came with the Harbor Freight cabinet to see if it can draw the water up like my 3D printed one. It would be interesting to see if would work dry as well. Best of luck with your build!
Hey Vic, It looks like the 3mm gun is going to work out great with my compressor. I set the reg to 50psi and the compressor wide open, that thing was rock solid holding 90psi. I didn't have the water line hooked up yet. It never gained and never dropped it just held. Its a 30 gallon 2 stage 175psi unit. Lowes put it on clearance a few years ago, stole it for $115. The downside the compressor has a 75% duty cycle. So I guess I can go 45 minutes and have a 15min break. www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-KOBALT-30-Gallon-Two-Stage-Portable-Electric-Vertical-Air-Compressor/1000528965
Hi UcantBeSerious03, That's great news. I was worried about the blast time not being enough for you. 45 minutes is plenty to make progress on a job. Please record a video once it's done so we see it in action with your set up. The compressor price you got is awesome. If you run into another deal like that you can run two of them. Have a great day!
@@vbared That compressor was not cutting it for me. I decided to go all in on a 13hp gas 25CFM at 100psi with 100% duty cycle. I'm going to need a bigger blasting gun. =)
@@UcantBeSerious03 Good morning, A capable compressor is one of those tools that will pay for itself in a short time. It's awesome that you can do anything now and not have to wait around for recovery and cool down. I'll add a 4.5 or 5mm version to the mix in the next day or so you can do some testing. I'll just need to make sure the air jet walls will have enough thickness left.
@@vbared Wow - just wow 54 minutes later I got an email of an update of the increased gun. 'Totally blown away' thank you sir!! I have 80 glass media, 100-170 and 170-325 What else do you use? I'll be stripping paint from steel exhuast headers and rust from an old GM steering box from the 70s - cast iron. I got a 20% off coupon from Zoro that expires today - good time to go shopping. thanks again Victor!
@@UcantBeSerious03 I'm glad to help you fine tune and maximize your efficiency. Let me know how it works on your big air supply. The media types and grits I've been using are: 80 grit glass bead from Harbor Freight for the first level polish. 175-325 as the second and final polish 36 grit garnet for stripping coatings, heavy oxidation, rust. 80 grit garnet for etching glass, and stainless steel. I did some testing with the 100-170 but found that it's not a needed to go from 80 grit glass bead right to 170-325 unless you're after the finish you get from the 100-170. Car projects are the best, have fun working on it.
Hello Thayer, Thank you for commenting. You're exactly right, so annoying dealing with the hoses getting in the way and not having a quick and easy way of adjusting the gun angle with what was available at the time. The 3D printed blast gun made sense to me and printing one continuous gun body with the tip and collar being the only other parts makes it robust enough to work in an application like this. Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared Hey! Thanks for the reply. I've been trying to find the gun I want in my head, but no one seems to offer it. It would basically be both hoses entering parallel, and the nozzle output at a 45 degree downward angle from the inputs. It's like people (engineers? designers?) think that air under pressure through a 4mm orifice can't change direction through a narrow tube. I've even contemplated concentric tubes, with the center hose carrying the media, and an outer hose the pressurized air.
@@thayerhills I've also thought about concentric tubes but believe it would be too difficult to bend. Send me a drawing of what you have in mind. I did a lot of testing with different variations and might be able to help you develop it the way you want. vbared@gmail.com
Please keep these videos coming sir.
I'm going to be building a cabinet very soon thanks to your content.
Hi Charlie, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. You'll be extremely rewarded once you restore your first part, it's truly amazing.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared thanks for the words of encouragement. I'm looking forward to getting started. I have a small house in the suburbs with no garage so I'm in the process of turning my front room into my work area.
Do you have a link to the pump you are using? That's pretty much the last thing I need to buy.
Thanks again for the help 👍
@@charliebelmonte7921 Hi Charlie, That's awesome, I bet you're excited to get it put together. I recently purchased a replacement pump after 4 years of service from the previous one. What I'm going to do different with this new one is pour out the water and dry off the pump when not in use. The previous one developed rust around the shaft and eventually seized.
www.ebay.com/itm/354852274910?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k9kwre_jq1q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=w67HWhT5QMO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Have fun with the build, please send some pictures vbared@gmail.com of your setup and restored parts, I'd love to see it.
This is awesome. I have been watching waiting for you to perfect the design and make it available. Will purchase and start the print right now!
Hello Tom, Thank you for your kind words and support. Please upload a video of it blasting so we can check out how it works with your setup.
Enjoy your new tool!
You are doing a really great job with this vapor blasting, its amazing that you also share your STL files..thanks a lot.
Since this a hobby all people needs to share his experiences to build together a better machine. I have the big eBay gun with boron tip, 7.5 mm nozzle and 4 mm air jet, I have enough air supplied by a 7.5hp 80 gal compressor, but want found this week its that im loosing a lot of flow, caused by an open flow pattern, at least half of flow is wasted, without any cleaning action . Since I don't have a 3d printer, but have a lathe I make a Steel nozzle, and results are amazing, I used same diameter but a long nozzle (65 mm instead of 30) but with a bigger and smooth slope on nozzle entry, to allow fluid enter inside without making too much turbulence, which causes high pressure inside gun, smooth and bigger cone makes both fluids came together making a laminar pattern flow which exits the nozzle with a closed pattern flow without any turbulence or bubbles, this closed pattern flow speeds up cleaning time...you should try making one of this way, im sure you will have a better results.
Hello Rodolfo, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Like you mentioned, I also found that a longer tip that transitioned smoothly on the inside from the cone entry to the exit tightened up the spray pattern and increased blast pressure. You need to purchase a 3D printer and learn to use CAD software if you already understand how to shape objects using the different lathe cutting tips. CAD is essentially the same thing but you're using digital cutting tips to work on a digital piece of stock. The 3D printer makes the digital files a reality. It will take your lathe work to another level. You can put together an awesome 3D printer for under $500. Look for my complete Ultimate Ender 3 V2 build list in the video description linked below.
th-cam.com/video/ct6YCIUxyHg/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your projects!
I was in the midst of designing my own 3D printed blasting gun last year using Catia. The only thing left was to learn how to model the threads since Catia does not have that function built into it. I recently came across your video and decided since your design was so close to mine but yours was ready to go I would go that route. This thing has at least twice the volume of slurry that my old DIY gun had - similar design to Armoury Enterprises design using brass in-line filter. I foresee a windshield wiper in my future with all the extra splash this thing has now. The problem I have right now is cavitation. My compressor is approx. 19cfm and working pressure was set to 65psi. If I slow the air down by closing my ball valve 1/2 way it seems to go away. Even with the increased volume of slurry it seems the cavitation is making the gun less efficient. Any idea how to remedy this? Smaller nozzle? Also, you should include in the text file with the download the recommended printer settings for infill ratio, supports, etc. I printed it with the nozzle end pointing up and broke the air jet tip off while removing supports. I will try to reprint with the nozzle end down next time. Thanks again.
Hello Shawn, Thank you for commenting, feedback, and supporting my work. The .STL files in the package can be combined in different ways to tweak the flow for your specific setup. There are 3 air jet variations of gun bodies, and 3 different sized tips. All of the parts are designed to print without supports. The main vapor blast gun body prints with the nozzle facing up and garden hose connectors facing down. Print all in PETG, use brim, combing (not in skin), infill 20%, wall count 10, top/bottom 8, and use gyroid pattern.
The collar prints with the flat side down, skirt enabled, no supports, and the rest of the settings are the same as the vapor blast gun body.
Tips print flat side down, brim, no supports.
Check out this video of my Ender 3 V2 printing the tool parts.
th-cam.com/video/wIsHZF9QhPc/w-d-xo.html
Please let me know if I missed anything.
@@vbared Just purchased the download files, and I agree that it would be helpful to include the print settings you mention above in the .txt file that's included. It's a little time consuming to dig back through old TH-cam comments to find them. It'll be interesting to see how it comes out. PrusaSlicer is claiming 12 hours 6 minutes for print time on a Mk3S+. I'd like to see what it would be on a Mk4 or Bambu Carbon X1 with input shaping.
@@JCWren Hello JCWren, Thank you for supporting my work. All the parts should load into the slicer properly oriented for printing. Print in PETG, no supports, use 10 walls, 10 top and bottom, 18% gyro infill, 10 wall brim for the V3 blast gun body, and nozzle tips. The collar doesn't need a brim. I recently updated the collar and your message reminded me to verify the print orientation. It should have the flat side of the collar facing down, threads facing up.
Give me a call with any questions 478-227-3301
@@vbared Victor, I'd like to offer one other suggestion for the gun and perhaps the nozzles. Embed the nozzle diameter on the nozzle, and the air jet size on the gun like you've done with the 'VB'. Also maybe an 'A' next to the air port and a ''M' next to the media port. Thoughts?
@@JCWren Hi John, I think debossing the tip opening diameter is a great idea. It would even be helpful to me when sorting inventory. On the input side, I feel that a quick glance inside each intake port will identify the air side vs media.
Thank you for the valuable feed back.
Happy Vapor Blasting!
I’d love to buy one that would work with my 3hp compressor if you ever sell them
Hi Dridful, please check out the comment from UcantBeSerious03, He's running a 2hp 30 gallon. The link to his compressor is included. Check those specs against yours and see if they are comparable.
If you decide to purchase the .STL files it will include two different blast gun bodies one will have a 3mm air jet (smaller compressor) and the other a 4mm (bigger compressors).
@@vbared yeah I’m sure mine will run it n if for some reason it can’t I have plenty air about 61 gallons, n reason I said I’ll buy it is because I don’t have a 3D printer yet :/
@@dridful1057 Your bringing up a great point. Many DIYers probably haven't had the need for a 3D printer. I'll see if I can create a kit that includes both blast gun bodies, tips, collars, hose adapters, check valve, and clamps. That way subscribers don't have to spend $100s just to 3D print the tool they need.
Thank you for bringing up this point.
The gun ring is designed to suspend it from a spring and allow you to work with the gun in your hand without having to carry its weight.
Thanks for the update email it came 2 hours ago!
Hi UcantBeSerious03, The 3mm air orifice should reduce air consumption by 50% vs the 4mm without sacrificing much performance. Let me know how it works for you.
Thanks again for supporting my work and giving valuable feedback.
Hi victor, i have purchased the stl file.
Do you maybe have any instructions or video how to print it?
Because i printed one but water is leaking from all sides
Hi Melvin, Thank you for supporting my work. Sure, give me a call tomorrow so we can figure out what's going on 478-227-3301
I screen new calls so just leave me a message and I'll call you right back.
This is a great explanation. This channel is awesome. I LOVE the idea of using low cost materials from 3D printing to substitute the consumable/wear parts. Cheap 8 dollar ceramic tip is $8. Print 16 of those for the price and you also have a moving living design that can keep giving more options. It's not locked into a high cost manufacturer. I would rather have a part I can print and replace in less than 2 hours than waiting to buy a manufactured part. This technique is massively underrated/unknown as of now. This will get traction.
Hello Brad, Thank you for your kind words. The ability to print things on demand is really cool. I'm hooked on CAD and 3D printing. Currently running on the 3D printer is a 1/3 lb hamburger patty press. It's a long print but should be ready by morning. We're getting ready for BBQ this Independence Day.
@@vbared Yeah, if your printing burger presses, you're hooked. Thanks for the great videos and inspiration. Keep them coming.
@@gearhed78 My kids tell me I need help, lol!
I'd like to know what type of filament you use to print with? Really enjoy everything on your channel.
Hello Thomas, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you're finding value in these videos for your viewing time.
I print all my parts using SUNLU PETG linked below is the exact one I use.
amzn.to/3TF4DlF
Happy New Year!
@@vbared Happy New Year!!
What size threads are on the inlets?
Hi Michael J, Thank you for commenting and supporting my work. They are standard garden hose threads. 26.4mm diameter 2.0mm pitch. Home Depot has a hose mender made by Obit. It's gold in color and fits perfectly. Some are too wide in diameter and won't fit without some modifications to them.
@@vbared since you used hose threads, I might as well take advantage and get a small leader hose and just cut the other end to grab onto a barb. Thanks for the reply!
awesome videos , newly subscribed and would like to know what compressor you are running ?
Good morning KNB, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Welcome to the channel! I'm using and Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon with the SS5 pump.
m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_211720_211720?
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Best of luck with your projects.
I got a 3D printer, would you some time in the future make a print for the bottom of the blast cabinet to prevent so much splashing?
Hello Dridful, You're gonna enjoy the 3D printer. It's super cool to go from a design to a physical object in a few hours. I need to address this in my own system as well. What I was thinking about using is a rubber glove with the hand part removed. This would create a flexible chute that can be directed to any side of the media pump but not interfere with the media bucket removal. Something like this would work but I'm sure a less expensive dishwashing set of gloves can be used.
www.harborfreight.com/rubber-blasting-gloves-4468.html
@@vbared yeah I’ve used a dish washing glove but came to find out that with it being outside n the weather it broke down after a while but I’ll try the HF ones and maybe it’ll hold up
@@dridful1057 If the cabinet gloves are holding up outside the HF gloves should as well. I'll look into finding a 3D printed solution.
@@vbared thanks man, will update after a while of use
@@dridful1057 Anytime Dridful, I'm looking forward to it.
De cual es la medida del blasting en Uruguay es de 100-200 micras y 400-600 micras para el vapor blasting tiene que ser más fino?
Hola David, gracias por comentar. El medio de microesferas de vidrio extra fino que uso para el pulido final es de 44-88 micras.
@@vbared muchas gracias por contestar acá en Uruguay no es tan común usar microesferas solo con arena de playa además los instrumentos hay que importarlos y son carismos una cabina común stands cuesta unos 500 dólares acá y el blasting casi 90 dólares los 25 kilos y ni pensar conseguir las pistolas de chorro por menos de 400 dólares profecional un compresor de 3 hp 100 litros mínimo 500 dólares las pistolas de 3d para vapor que venden por Amazon hay que hacerles algo para mejorar el rendimiento?
I bought your model if there is an update How do I request a file?
Hello Mr. ManChannel, Thank you for commenting and purchase. When an update is made you'll receive an email with an invitation to download new files.
Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
Best of luck with your projects!
With the wisdom of 2 years, have you gone back to ceramic or boron nitride tips so you can forget them and not constantly check for wear and not get variation in performance over time etc? Also not generate microplastics that enter the water cycle through your sewer. Genuine question.
Hello Fredio54, I still use the 3D printed gun and tips for vapor blasting. You won't be wearing out tips at a rate that you need worry about when blasting with glass bead media as a hobby mechanic. If you plan on removing powder coatings and rust the majority of the time a dry system is best. In that case I would just purchase some 6mm Eastwood ceramic tips to use in the V3 3D printed gun.
amzn.to/46udU3U
The V3 3D printed gun is made out of PETG which is a food grade plastic. It's the same material that takeout food trays are made from. Oils, aluminum, and other materials being removed should be the focus of concern.
Another excellent video! Thank you for making your ideas available for purchase 👍
Hello Falcon, Thank you for commenting and kindness. More coming soon!
Hi Victor, I'm struggling to buy your 3D print plans. I have tried CC and Paypal with no luck. can you assist, please?
Sorted thx
Hello Salt, Thank you for supporting my work. What trouble did you have with your purchase and how did you resolve it? Your feedback will be valuable in assisting others that might encounter the same issue.
Have fun putting together your new system.
@@vbared for some reason when I used Firefox, the Paypal popup worked but gave an error all the time. I then used Chrome and it worked fine. Using the gun for the past 2 weeks, and works GR8 thx
@@Totalygazed Hi SALT, Thanks again for supporting my work. I'm blown away every time I vapor blast parts myself. Being able to restore things to looking brand new using a home brewed system is amazing to me still.
Best of luck with your projects!
Standard PLA ok or different type of filament?
Hello Curlybrownk9, Thank you for commenting. I print everything in PETG, it's strong, hard to sand, file and exposure to sunlight temps up to 170f don't bother it at all. PLA in a hot garage will deform over time.
@@vbared thank you for your reply, looking foward to printing and vapor blasting, printable nozzle is definitely the way to go.
PETG makes sense.
Thanks.
I appreciate your support, thank you. If you have any questions just ask here or email me vbared@gmail.com
Do you sell these? I would be interested, if so.
Hi Stephen Densmore, What size air jet are you needing 3mm (under 5hp smaller tank compressor) or 4mm (5hp 60 gallon 18.1 cfm or larger)? You can send your details to vbared@gmail.com so I can figure out the shipping and send you a detailed price quote.
Thank you for your interest.
Hi, gun looks good.
Will it work with dry blasting?
Hello smartroadster452, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I haven't tried using it in a dry system but can tell you that it syphons. If I have the slurry pump off and activate the air only it will draw the water from the slurry bucket and blast it out the nozzle. I would have to test the original sand blast gun that came with the Harbor Freight cabinet to see if it can draw the water up like my 3D printed one.
It would be interesting to see if would work dry as well.
Best of luck with your build!
Hey Vic, It looks like the 3mm gun is going to work out great with my compressor. I set the reg to 50psi and the compressor wide open, that thing was rock solid holding 90psi. I didn't have the water line hooked up yet. It never gained and never dropped it just held. Its a 30 gallon 2 stage 175psi unit. Lowes put it on clearance a few years ago, stole it for $115. The downside the compressor has a 75% duty cycle. So I guess I can go 45 minutes and have a 15min break.
www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-KOBALT-30-Gallon-Two-Stage-Portable-Electric-Vertical-Air-Compressor/1000528965
Hi UcantBeSerious03, That's great news. I was worried about the blast time not being enough for you. 45 minutes is plenty to make progress on a job. Please record a video once it's done so we see it in action with your set up.
The compressor price you got is awesome. If you run into another deal like that you can run two of them.
Have a great day!
@@vbared That compressor was not cutting it for me. I decided to go all in on a 13hp gas 25CFM at 100psi with 100% duty cycle. I'm going to need a bigger blasting gun. =)
@@UcantBeSerious03 Good morning, A capable compressor is one of those tools that will pay for itself in a short time. It's awesome that you can do anything now and not have to wait around for recovery and cool down. I'll add a 4.5 or 5mm version to the mix in the next day or so you can do some testing. I'll just need to make sure the air jet walls will have enough thickness left.
@@vbared Wow - just wow 54 minutes later I got an email of an update of the increased gun. 'Totally blown away' thank you sir!!
I have 80 glass media, 100-170 and 170-325
What else do you use? I'll be stripping paint from steel exhuast headers and rust from an old GM steering box from the 70s - cast iron. I got a 20% off coupon from Zoro that expires today - good time to go shopping. thanks again Victor!
@@UcantBeSerious03 I'm glad to help you fine tune and maximize your efficiency. Let me know how it works on your big air supply.
The media types and grits I've been using are:
80 grit glass bead from Harbor Freight for the first level polish.
175-325 as the second and final polish
36 grit garnet for stripping coatings, heavy oxidation, rust.
80 grit garnet for etching glass, and stainless steel.
I did some testing with the 100-170 but found that it's not a needed to go from 80 grit glass bead right to 170-325 unless you're after the finish you get from the 100-170.
Car projects are the best, have fun working on it.
I'm three minutes in, and for the first time ANYWHERE someone points out how stupid the two hose angles on every damned gun are. Thank you.
Hello Thayer, Thank you for commenting. You're exactly right, so annoying dealing with the hoses getting in the way and not having a quick and easy way of adjusting the gun angle with what was available at the time. The 3D printed blast gun made sense to me and printing one continuous gun body with the tip and collar being the only other parts makes it robust enough to work in an application like this.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared Hey! Thanks for the reply. I've been trying to find the gun I want in my head, but no one seems to offer it. It would basically be both hoses entering parallel, and the nozzle output at a 45 degree downward angle from the inputs. It's like people (engineers? designers?) think that air under pressure through a 4mm orifice can't change direction through a narrow tube. I've even contemplated concentric tubes, with the center hose carrying the media, and an outer hose the pressurized air.
@@thayerhills I've also thought about concentric tubes but believe it would be too difficult to bend. Send me a drawing of what you have in mind. I did a lot of testing with different variations and might be able to help you develop it the way you want.
vbared@gmail.com
@@vbared Thanks, I will try to draw something up. (lets just say I never got an A in either art or drafting)