There have been many comments about the horn ring needing to be re-chromed. UPDATE! The horn ring has been re-chromed and an image has been posted here: www.polyvance.com/images_old/SteeringWheelReChromed.jpg
I used JB Weld as my filler. Also, I opened the cracks a little to get the filler in place and to help it grip. That was a ot 12 years ago. It's doing great.
JB Weld has almost limitless uses. I actually just fixed a steering wheel with body filler (sparing use of hardener) and then coated the wheel with polyester resin and pigment.
I was wondering about using JB. I've used it on old plastic grille pieces before with good success. There's a LOT of different JB epoxies out there to choose from.
Fantastic job that took far more patience than I would have, and I can't believe that there are those who don't see this as a complete restoration. the only step further that I can think of is re-manufacture. top marks to all concerned.
I've always considered repairing a steering wheel like this, and then finally undertook the endeavor. I was able to come out with a beautiful steering wheel. However, I am right back to where I started five years ago. The problem is that the original plastic will continue to crack in new places despite all you've done, ruining all of that exceptionally hard work. There are a few wheel restoration specialists that use injection molding to remake these vintage wheels using a much more durable plastic. I think that is really the only permanent solution.
it helps to heat gun the steering wheel first to anneal the plastic and release built up stress. This will cause a crap load of cracks as the stress is released but afterwards it shouldn't happen again.
There are solutions besides going all in on a complete strip and re-molded wheel. What causes the damage is sunlight and heat. If you think about the steering wheel sitting under the windshield, cooking away in direct sunlight all the time when parked, it makes sense. Window tinting will eliminate a lot of that destructive sunlight. Purists might scoff at the idea of popping 80% tint on their beloved classics windows, but it saves more than just the wheel. The entire interior is spared. A sun shield for your windshield… placed faithfully every single time you park it, will stop most of that deterioration. I have one for every car I have, including my late model Ram. They work. Parking in the garage if possible
I make a habit of being positive in my comments. Thank you for very clear instructions, and high quality video technique. I aspire to production with this high a value. The remainder of this comment is an exception to my usual habit. I am at 5:32 and stopped. beyond very clear instructions, I just dont see this particular repair working or holding up over time. I do 6 to a dozen steering wheels each winter. Here I see a steering wheel that is just flat out filthy that I would not work on until properly cleaned. I see filth in cracks that are being repaired. This stuff sticks to dirt but does not stick to polypropylene? Just look at the filth in the finger grooves! I see cracks with no fresh edge, no keying, and no hope of holding a repair as expansion and contraction take place I see unaddressed spider cracking directly adjacent to areas being repaired. the time for that dremel and the sander was BEFORE you laid in a lick of plastic to make clean, keyed crevices that will hold material! Based on the experience of seeing failed repairs, The "tiny and not too deep" cracks at 6:30 require cleaning and enlargement and keying using a dremel with a disc or burr so they dont show up at the primer step and they do not fail later. You made it look easy, however, the truth is cleaning that wheel properly was a detailed 3 to 4 hour job, and keying and cleaning cracks prior to filling was hours more. And a full keying job would have produced the need for much more material. (a positive for your bottom line!) In addition to your high quality video and narration work, Your paint job was great!
The nature of the PlastiFix adhesive is that it will not stick to PP. Adhesives are formulated for a specific application. You may disagree, but just ask the guys who put in the anchor bolts in the "Big Dig" ceiling in Boston. They used epoxy, but it was the wrong epoxy and the adhesive failed and caused the ceiling to fall, squishing some poor folks. Plastifix adhesive is ideal on this type of material and holds up well. I'm not sure if filthy is the appropriate term for this wheel. True, it wasn't surgically cleaned but it was cleaned well enough. So far the wheel is holding up fine.
Absolutely excellent, informative, clear detail instructions, great photography, very helpful. I have a 1965 Ford Mustang and a 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado with the original black steering wheel. Looking forward to performing this repair. Much appreciate your efforts in producing this educational video. 🏎🚙👍🏻😉🙏🏻🇺🇸🙏🏻🇺🇸🙏🏻🇺🇸
Great demonstration! I like the design of that applicator tube. The one thing I'd want would be a means of coloring the filler and primer, anticipating wear on the rim. Also, to be honest, I'd be tempted to fill those fine cracks with super glue, unless there is good reason to expect problems with it. I've had good luck with it in similar situations.
Thank you! You're right, there are lots of different plastics on cars! PlastiFix works on rigid plastics like ABS, PC, ASA, and PVC. For other plastics like PP and PE, we recommend fusion welding. We make top quality nitrogen plastic welders as well as many airless plastic welder kits. Not to mention the 20 different welding rod materials we carry!
Tip: when mixing small amounts of paint. weight the liquid to the correct ratios and you'll have more accurate mixes. buy a small digital scale. Depending on lines on a plastic cup with small amounts is inconsistent, especially if you have to mix extra.
I'm afraid the old plastic will just continue to crack and check. Do you have materials that could be used to take a mold and re-cast the entire wheel?
It drives me nuts that you went through all that work to produce a nice finish on that steering wheel and then you put back that crappy looking metal horn trim. You could have at least taken a light bit of steel wool to it to clean off the rough surface finish of the horn metal. Overall though, it was good work.
@@polyvance I hope I didn't come off sounding like a complete prick. I'm a recently retired auto upholsterer after about thirty-five years of doing that for a living. I'm afraid I'm just anal-retentive about stuff like that; even though I'm no longer in the game..
Totally see what you mean, just a good cleaning of the chrome would have made that nice restoration look that much better! Glad the parts were eventually restored, nothing like seeing well done work. I love doing restoration and having people enjoy the finished job.
when using very thin strips of sanding papers (10:40), its a good, if not essential idea to put strong sticky tape or packaging tape on the back of the sanding paper. masking tape isnt usually strong enough.
Hey guys l have a 70 dodge coronet the steering wheel is rough classic industries makes a repo for $249 no horn ring it’s a the pebbled finish will this work and cost compared is it worth it. Thank you. BTW awesome video.
No. PlastiFix is a special type methylmethacryalte designed for ABS, PC, Acrylics and other hard plastics. Superglue only bonds to the surface of the plastic. It is also very brittle and only has about 30% the strength of a PlastiFix repair on hard plastics. PlastiFix chemically etches itself into the plastic and should not fail. Plastifix uses a liquid monomer to polymerize the powder to form MMA plastic in an exothermic chemical reaction. The most common forms of MMA include acrylic and lucite. The individual components have no adhesive properties without the chemical reaction of the two ingredients, unlike super glue. Because the components can be reacted directly on the surface to be bonded, the added benefit is that the reaction incorporates the surface molecules of the base plastic, creating a chemical as well as physical bond on some materials. The chemical AND physical bond make this type of repair extremely durable and impact resistant, plus it is sandable and easily painted, unlike super-glue or gorilla glue type repairs.
@@CreatorCade I'd take your bet; you will lose. Its a different chemistry than CA glue. By themselves, the power nor liquid has any adhesive qualities; its only when they are mixed does the magic happen.
@@JohnMartin-ni2pj Uh, that's true. They still placed the metal ring in the injection moulding machine and molded plastic around the ring though. My comment was pointing out that after watching all of this labor to repair the wheel today, I thought about the guy who stood in front of a machine in the early 60's, putting metal rings in and retrieving finished wheels thousands of times, over and over.
Amazing improvements in technique. I had a 57 Corvette and original steering wheel with cracks was preferred to aftermarket or poor fixes of the time. That plastic covers a metal rim underneath.
View this video on on our website for helpful information and product suggestions for this repair: www.polyvance.com/video/plastifix/steering-wheel-restoration
The individual PlastiFix kits are currently $38.95 each. Our least expensive aluminum tape is $16.95 and our least expensive cleaner is $16.95. Those are the products for the repair. The rest of the products are for refinishing. The list of all products can be found here: www.polyvance.com/video/plastifix/steering-wheel-restoration This does not include the grinders, sandpaper, etc.
Extremely detailed video. Entertaining also I love how you sped up thru the mundane steps like sanding & stuff yet still kept my "short attentions span theater level " glued to see what's was next Great results ,product & video. how long did it actually take from start to finish?
being one that has worked many a long day in trauma rooms i realize and respect what the airbag has done for safety, but sure has taken away the uniqueness and style of these old steering wheels...
@@polyvance That's ok. When any car collides with a '66 Chrysler, that other car will absorb almost all of the impact. It might be easier to think of the entire other car as a crumple zone. This steering wheel looks great by the way!
Good question. To the best of my knowledge, acrylics, polycarbonates and bakelite were all used. They are all hard plastics that are fairly stable. They will continue to shrink somewhat (they start shrinking as soon as they are made) but at a slow rate. The repair will also shrink over time, but should last just as long as the original if done correctly. In fact, because old cars are generally not stored outdoors like they are when new, the repair may last longer as its won't be subject to harsh conditions daily.
That is awesome.. I love your ease of directions. I wonder if you could take the dimensions of the steering wheel and 3D print one? (Using some of the new printing elements like carbon poly, or some of the new harder materials?
I would say you could definitely do that, but you would want to print it out of something that is heat resistant, not PLA. PETG might work, as would probably ABS or PC. It would be an interesting project if you had a really bad wheel to start with, one where the plastic was just falling off or you just had a metal ring. I would make it in two parts that fit snugly around the metal ring and snapped together. I would also use adhesive, like 2510 PlastiFix to lay a bead between the parts before assembling. (leave a space for the adhesive so it all doesn't get squeezed out). I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work, but it would be up to you to determine its road-worthiness. I'd love to see it attempted, anyway!
🤔 what about the chrome why go threw the trouble to do that and not chrome the horn rails. Also wonder how long that will hold up auto paint and hand oils. Not to sure about this. Also the filler and the sun see that cracking Just my two cents
Great video, the final product looks great! How does this hold up considering that it is painted and the originally the steering wheel was the same color all the way through.
That primer surfacer is waterborne and does not require a hardener like a 2K primer and sprays right out of the can. A crosslinker is available, although it is not necessary as the resin system in this primer is very robust without it and in my opinion the benefit is not significant enough to justify the paint wasted by not being able to pour the unused quantity back in to the can.
Polyvance does make "CLEAR" PlastiFix. It is mostly clear when cured , but its difficult to totally eliminate a small amount of air in the cured product. If you decide to use this, use the "Dropper method" for application with the applicator needle. Make sure each layer is completely wet out before adding the next layer, work in thin layers (1/16 in) and don't stop in the middle to let it cure out; this will minimize air entrapment. Also, you will never eliminate the seam line between the repair and the original part. Think of it like the bonded joints in an aquarium; they aren't horrible to look at, but they are there. Cured PlastiFix can be polished out to a high gloss mirror-like finish. So will it be an completely invisible repair, no, but it will certainly look and feel better than a crack.
Very helpful! Now I'm about 90% certain that my truck will be getting an aftermarket wheel. Results look great, but entirely too much time and effort for a non restoration like mine. Not like I really need the 17" wheel with the power steering upgrade and the extra belly room would be nice.
Labor intensive, definitely need the correct tools to complete this project or it will be a disaster. However, anything worth doing should be done right.
There have been many comments about the horn ring needing to be re-chromed. UPDATE! The horn ring has been re-chromed and an image has been posted here: www.polyvance.com/images_old/SteeringWheelReChromed.jpg
How much to do mine?
I used JB Weld as my filler. Also, I opened the cracks a little to get the filler in place and to help it grip.
That was a ot 12 years ago. It's doing great.
JB Weld has almost limitless uses. I actually just fixed a steering wheel with body filler (sparing use of hardener) and then coated the wheel with polyester resin and pigment.
I was wondering about using JB. I've used it on old plastic grille pieces before with good success. There's a LOT of different JB epoxies out there to choose from.
THE BEST instructional video ever made!! Hands down.
Wow, thanks!
Fantastic job that took far more patience than I would have, and I can't believe that there are those who don't see this as a complete restoration. the only step further that I can think of is re-manufacture. top marks to all concerned.
Thank you!
Whitout a doubt a perfect video for pro ppl! Also convening the other ppl to look for a repair shop.
Ready to make people happy for another 60 years! Fantastic prep and end result.
Thanks for watching!
Exceptional instruction. Easy to understand. Ready to try it myself now.
Great!
I've always considered repairing a steering wheel like this, and then finally undertook the endeavor. I was able to come out with a beautiful steering wheel. However, I am right back to where I started five years ago. The problem is that the original plastic will continue to crack in new places despite all you've done, ruining all of that exceptionally hard work. There are a few wheel restoration specialists that use injection molding to remake these vintage wheels using a much more durable plastic. I think that is really the only permanent solution.
it helps to heat gun the steering wheel first to anneal the plastic and release built up stress. This will cause a crap load of cracks as the stress is released but afterwards it shouldn't happen again.
There are solutions besides going all in on a complete strip and re-molded wheel. What causes the damage is sunlight and heat. If you think about the steering wheel sitting under the windshield, cooking away in direct sunlight all the time when parked, it makes sense.
Window tinting will eliminate a lot of that destructive sunlight. Purists might scoff at the idea of popping 80% tint on their beloved classics windows, but it saves more than just the wheel. The entire interior is spared.
A sun shield for your windshield… placed faithfully every single time you park it, will stop most of that deterioration. I have one for every car I have, including my late model Ram. They work.
Parking in the garage if possible
Very well edited. Great job overall.
I make a habit of being positive in my comments. Thank you for very clear instructions, and high quality video technique. I aspire to production with this high a value. The remainder of this comment is an exception to my usual habit. I am at 5:32 and stopped. beyond very clear instructions, I just dont see this particular repair working or holding up over time. I do 6 to a dozen steering wheels each winter. Here I see a steering wheel that is just flat out filthy that I would not work on until properly cleaned. I see filth in cracks that are being repaired. This stuff sticks to dirt but does not stick to polypropylene? Just look at the filth in the finger grooves! I see cracks with no fresh edge, no keying, and no hope of holding a repair as expansion and contraction take place I see unaddressed spider cracking directly adjacent to areas being repaired. the time for that dremel and the sander was BEFORE you laid in a lick of plastic to make clean, keyed crevices that will hold material! Based on the experience of seeing failed repairs, The "tiny and not too deep" cracks at 6:30 require cleaning and enlargement and keying using a dremel with a disc or burr so they dont show up at the primer step and they do not fail later. You made it look easy, however, the truth is cleaning that wheel properly was a detailed 3 to 4 hour job, and keying and cleaning cracks prior to filling was hours more. And a full keying job would have produced the need for much more material. (a positive for your bottom line!) In addition to your high quality video and narration work, Your paint job was great!
The nature of the PlastiFix adhesive is that it will not stick to PP. Adhesives are formulated for a specific application. You may disagree, but just ask the guys who put in the anchor bolts in the "Big Dig" ceiling in Boston. They used epoxy, but it was the wrong epoxy and the adhesive failed and caused the ceiling to fall, squishing some poor folks. Plastifix adhesive is ideal on this type of material and holds up well. I'm not sure if filthy is the appropriate term for this wheel. True, it wasn't surgically cleaned but it was cleaned well enough. So far the wheel is holding up fine.
That's a really nice job ! Even nicer with the new chromed horn ring !
Thank you!
Baking soda and super glue does this exact thing. I have been using that trick for 30+ years.
Absolutely excellent, informative, clear detail instructions, great photography, very helpful. I have a 1965 Ford
Mustang and a 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado with the original black steering wheel. Looking forward to performing this repair.
Much appreciate your efforts in producing this educational video. 🏎🚙👍🏻😉🙏🏻🇺🇸🙏🏻🇺🇸🙏🏻🇺🇸
Thanks for watching!
Looks great, need to do my 60 wheel, now I know how. Thanks again Gary O
Awesome work, thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Nicely done! Thanks for posting!
Thank you!
Very dedicated thorough job. I would have said good enough a long time before you finally were satisfied
Thank you!
Good work 😊
Great demonstration! I like the design of that applicator tube. The one thing I'd want would be a means of coloring the filler and primer, anticipating wear on the rim. Also, to be honest, I'd be tempted to fill those fine cracks with super glue, unless there is good reason to expect problems with it. I've had good luck with it in similar situations.
Excellent repair. Step by step guide. Old skool style. Great job.
Thank you for watching, and thank you for the compliment. Compliments on TH-cam are rare.
Great instructional VDO, I like it when he sped up, save so much time.
Thanks for watching!
Brilliant job on restoring the steering wheel, only to have it over shadowed by the crappy horn ring.
The owner of the car had everything re-chromed after making this video. Hopefully we can post an update on the car soon!
thnaks for show me how its done I wanted to know it was done this way .and very interested for me .
Thanks for watching!
Realy exlent a real professional job.. it was very helpful for me
Many thanks
Thanks for watching!
With all the plastic on cars today this product should be more than successful..... nice resto.🤠👍
Thank you! You're right, there are lots of different plastics on cars!
PlastiFix works on rigid plastics like ABS, PC, ASA, and PVC. For other plastics like PP and PE, we recommend fusion welding. We make top quality nitrogen plastic welders as well as many airless plastic welder kits. Not to mention the 20 different welding rod materials we carry!
loved what you did!!! i have a steering wheel that needs help.. lincoln twelve!!
Thank you!
Very nice video. Thorough and clear. Even I can do it.
Thanks for watching!
I restored my '64 bug steering wheel with JB weld. Works!
You made it look easy.
Pain staking but well worth it awsome job
Thanks for watching!
Finally smart person knows the terminology and chemical
Thank you! Our company has been focused on plastic repair since 1981, and we try to find a way to repair many different kinds of plastic parts!
Good choice of vehicle!
Tip: when mixing small amounts of paint. weight the liquid to the correct ratios and you'll have more accurate mixes. buy a small digital scale. Depending on lines on a plastic cup with small amounts is inconsistent, especially if you have to mix extra.
I'm afraid the old plastic will just continue to crack and check. Do you have materials that could be used to take a mold and re-cast the entire wheel?
learned a lot thanks. ready to tackle my old dodge now
Thanks for watching! And good luck!
It drives me nuts that you went through all that work to produce a nice finish on that steering wheel and then you put back that crappy looking metal horn trim. You could have at least taken a light bit of steel wool to it to clean off the rough surface finish of the horn metal. Overall though, it was good work.
Agreed. I actually had everything re-chromed after making this video. Too bad I can't post a pic in the comments.
@@polyvance I hope I didn't come off sounding like a complete prick. I'm a recently retired auto upholsterer after about thirty-five years of doing that for a living. I'm afraid I'm just anal-retentive about stuff like that; even though I'm no longer in the game..
Totally see what you mean, just a good cleaning of the chrome would have made that nice restoration look that much better! Glad the parts were eventually restored, nothing like seeing well done work. I love doing restoration and having people enjoy the finished job.
when using very thin strips of sanding papers (10:40), its a good, if not essential idea to put strong sticky tape or packaging tape on the back of the sanding paper. masking tape isnt usually strong enough.
That's a GREAT tip! Thanks.
Very nice! Thanks for putting this out there! Very helpful!
Thanks for watching!
Terrific job! Would love to see more of that Newport.
I'll post them on a separate channel. I did this video for Polyvance since I work there and used their products.
that looks really good thanks for making this video
Thank you!
Now you need to re-chrome that horn and center cap! then she'll look totally all brand new, but the steering wheel does look great.
Thanks! The owner did have everything re-chromed after making the video.
Perty cool like having a brand new one. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Hey guys l have a 70 dodge coronet the steering wheel is rough classic industries makes a repo for $249 no horn ring it’s a the pebbled finish will this work and cost compared is it worth it. Thank you. BTW awesome video.
wouldnt be easier to just use epoxy? Could dye it to match the steering wheel color as well
Possiblely but you can see how much difference in color there already is
Is this product just a relatively-large bottle of cyanoacrylates super-glue and a relatively-small bottle of baking soda ?
I’m willing to bet that’s almost exactly what it is.
No. PlastiFix is a special type methylmethacryalte designed for ABS, PC, Acrylics and other hard plastics. Superglue only bonds to the surface of the plastic. It is also very brittle and only has about 30% the strength of a PlastiFix repair on hard plastics. PlastiFix chemically etches itself into the plastic and should not fail.
Plastifix uses a liquid monomer to polymerize the powder to form MMA plastic in an exothermic chemical reaction. The most common forms of MMA include acrylic and lucite. The individual components have no adhesive properties without the chemical reaction of the two ingredients, unlike super glue. Because the components can be reacted directly on the surface to be bonded, the added benefit is that the reaction incorporates the surface molecules of the base plastic, creating a chemical as well as physical bond on some materials. The chemical AND physical bond make this type of repair extremely durable and impact resistant, plus it is sandable and easily painted, unlike super-glue or gorilla glue type repairs.
@@CreatorCade I'd take your bet; you will lose. Its a different chemistry than CA glue. By themselves, the power nor liquid has any adhesive qualities; its only when they are mixed does the magic happen.
@@polyvance BURN!
J B weld works good too
I might suggest using sandpaper to clean inside the crack for better bonding.
This wheel was not properly prepared. proper preparation would have taken 7 to 10 hours
Thk now I can work on my 67 mustang FB steering one more question from where I can buy the material thk
The products used for this are listed at www.polyvance.com/Steering-Wheel-Restoration/
I cant help but think about the injection molding machine that cranked those wheels out by the thousands.
But the original steering wheels had a metal insert, not made of just plastic like the aftermarket ones made today.
@@JohnMartin-ni2pj Uh, that's true. They still placed the metal ring in the injection moulding machine and molded plastic around the ring though.
My comment was pointing out that after watching all of this labor to repair the wheel today, I thought about the guy who stood in front of a machine in the early 60's, putting metal rings in and retrieving finished wheels thousands of times, over and over.
Great instructions and demonstrations! new sub indeed! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
One word... WOW
Thanks for watching!
Amazing improvements in technique. I had a 57 Corvette and original steering wheel with cracks was preferred to aftermarket or poor fixes of the time. That plastic covers a metal rim underneath.
Extremely detailed, and highly successful steering wheel restoration
Thanks for watching!
Is there a video demonstrating the PlastiFix FlexMold Molding Bar?
Yes! This video (th-cam.com/video/gnCl6ogtfZI/w-d-xo.html) and this video (th-cam.com/video/QNu-pQdPWKY/w-d-xo.html)
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls
LMAO, can i just send these folks my wheel?!? really nice results.
Thank you!
nicely done
Thank you!
Can we just use JB Weld?
I'm not sure. We wanted to use products that we sell.
Great video and product. How long did this whole process take ?
Thanks! It took about 14-15 hours.
Where I can get my done please if you know let me know please thank you 🙏🏼
Sorry. I don't know anyone that provides these services.
View this video on on our website for helpful information and product suggestions for this repair: www.polyvance.com/video/plastifix/steering-wheel-restoration
Always wondered about this, now I know
That’s a lot of work- what does a professional restoration person charge for this service?
more.
Thanks for this great instructional video. I was wondering, how do you do a translucent metallic or pearl.
I'm not sure. My goal was to make the steering wheel better than it was, and it does look better.
great job thanks.
Thanks for watching!
so if the home mechanic wants to restore uding this procedure,.. but has no paint booth... whats going to be the cost just for products??
The individual PlastiFix kits are currently $38.95 each. Our least expensive aluminum tape is $16.95 and our least expensive cleaner is $16.95. Those are the products for the repair. The rest of the products are for refinishing. The list of all products can be found here: www.polyvance.com/video/plastifix/steering-wheel-restoration
This does not include the grinders, sandpaper, etc.
Extremely detailed video. Entertaining also I love how you sped up thru the mundane steps like sanding & stuff yet still kept my "short attentions span theater level " glued to see what's was next Great results ,product & video. how long did it actually take from start to finish?
Total time was "about 15 hours," said from the guy who did it...[not me, btw]
Beautiful job
Thanks for watching!
Well done!!........ Always, any miss steps in the preparation, shows in the finished product!!......... 👍.
Thanks for watching.
Nice job,
Thank you!
how long will it last ?
Not long depends on how much you drive it. It will crack in 90 days if you drive it everyday
It’s gonna crack again soon like the parts that didn’t crack will crack
It should last indefinitely.
as always it is so interesting to watch how you work, nice video!
Off topic, what watch you have on your hand? :)
The watch ⌚ is a Fitbit Ionic. Thanks for watching!
@ Polyvance great video, what was the color code that you used for final paint?
being one that has worked many a long day in trauma rooms i realize and respect what the airbag has done for safety, but sure has taken away the uniqueness and style of these old steering wheels...
Agreed. I hope I never get in a wreck with this car. It only has lap belts and a non-collapsible steering column.
@@polyvance That's ok. When any car collides with a '66 Chrysler, that other car will absorb almost all of the impact. It might be easier to think of the entire other car as a crumple zone.
This steering wheel looks great by the way!
@@wilkesjournal That's hilarious! I love that perspective.
How do you know what "plastics" were used one steering wheels? And will it shrink again?
Good question. To the best of my knowledge, acrylics, polycarbonates and bakelite were all used. They are all hard plastics that are fairly stable. They will continue to shrink somewhat (they start shrinking as soon as they are made) but at a slow rate. The repair will also shrink over time, but should last just as long as the original if done correctly. In fact, because old cars are generally not stored outdoors like they are when new, the repair may last longer as its won't be subject to harsh conditions daily.
Great Job !!
Thanks for watching!
What color is that i like it
So when you installed the steering wheel, you already had connected the battery cable,
What paint color/code is that?
That is awesome.. I love your ease of directions.
I wonder if you could take the dimensions of the steering wheel and 3D print one? (Using some of the new printing elements like carbon poly, or some of the new harder materials?
I would say you could definitely do that, but you would want to print it out of something that is heat resistant, not PLA. PETG might work, as would probably ABS or PC. It would be an interesting project if you had a really bad wheel to start with, one where the plastic was just falling off or you just had a metal ring. I would make it in two parts that fit snugly around the metal ring and snapped together. I would also use adhesive, like 2510 PlastiFix to lay a bead between the parts before assembling. (leave a space for the adhesive so it all doesn't get squeezed out). I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work, but it would be up to you to determine its road-worthiness. I'd love to see it attempted, anyway!
Love the duck tape and bungee cord in the after image :-)
That's actually aluminum tape (which we used in the repair process) and the bungee cord is part of our 6076 Bumper Stabilizer kit.
🤔 what about the chrome why go threw the trouble to do that and not chrome the horn rails. Also wonder how long that will hold up auto paint and hand oils. Not to sure about this. Also the filler and the sun see that cracking Just my two cents
The owner of the car had everything re-chromed after making this video.
Good video.....thanks. Have 1 I need to do.......
Thank you and good luck!
Can anyone recommend a professional wheel restoration specialist?
Try www.craftcustoms.com
Great video, the final product looks great! How does this hold up considering that it is painted and the originally the steering wheel was the same color all the way through.
Do all the applicator tips make a barking noise when you remove them?
I rewatched the video and I don't hear a barking noise.
Start at 1:25.
@@jth1987leb It's just a side effect from the video being slowed down.
great job!
Thank you!
Great video. Primer surfaces & sealer don’t need a hardener? It’s ready to spray out of the can?
The primer and sealer do not need a hardener. They are ready to spray out of the can.
That primer surfacer is waterborne and does not require a hardener like a 2K primer and sprays right out of the can. A crosslinker is available, although it is not necessary as the resin system in this primer is very robust without it and in my opinion the benefit is not significant enough to justify the paint wasted by not being able to pour the unused quantity back in to the can.
would you restore my steering for my 67 chevelle , black ?
Sorry, we don't offer this as a service. This is just a video to show people how they can do it themselves.
How much do you charge??
I have a 56’ olds that’s needs your help
Who can i find for someone that is a professional to do it for me
My 1965 Pontiac has clear parts . Is there a clear product ?
Polyvance does make "CLEAR" PlastiFix. It is mostly clear when cured , but its difficult to totally eliminate a small amount of air in the cured product. If you decide to use this, use the "Dropper method" for application with the applicator needle. Make sure each layer is completely wet out before adding the next layer, work in thin layers (1/16 in) and don't stop in the middle to let it cure out; this will minimize air entrapment. Also, you will never eliminate the seam line between the repair and the original part. Think of it like the bonded joints in an aquarium; they aren't horrible to look at, but they are there. Cured PlastiFix can be polished out to a high gloss mirror-like finish. So will it be an completely invisible repair, no, but it will certainly look and feel better than a crack.
Very helpful! Now I'm about 90% certain that my truck will be getting an aftermarket wheel. Results look great, but entirely too much time and effort for a non restoration like mine. Not like I really need the 17" wheel with the power steering upgrade and the extra belly room would be nice.
Labor intensive! Beautifull too!
Thank you! And thanks for watching.
Add colour to the mixture? Can you?
Add color, you cannot.
How long did it actually take to do this
About 14 hours.
you da man
all that work and didnt scrub the chrome horn ring with some 0000 steel wool.... ?? wheel looks mint tho good work
The owner had everything re-chromed after making this video.
Dry sanding?
That many hours of wet sanding would make your finger tips wrinkle up like a raisin.
Bad case of Dish Pan Hands!
Labor intensive, definitely need the correct tools to complete this project or it will be a disaster. However, anything worth doing should be done right.
now explain how to get the wheel to stop off gassing and stop being sticky!