Thanks for describing that orange quick release clip - I was worried about breaking the spigot on the fuel pump like you mentioned. None of the videos describe that as clearly as you did - awesome.
CAUTION: This might be a simple oversight, but mentioning that carb and injector cleaners are extremely flammable, definitely keep the spark of the battery as far away from this process as you can, vapors are not just flammable, they're explosive when they ignite. Best way to do this, is connect the circuit to open your injectors on the NEGATIVE (-) side of the battery. In fact, anytime you connect a battery, you always connect to the negative LAST, as the much smaller spark decreases explosive potential. (Battery vapors can also be explosive, fyi, but generally aren't present in sufficient quantities to impart serious danger. The chemicals inside, and when they DO explode, however, are viciously dangerous.) Safer and easier still, wire up a spring loaded switch (called a momentary switch) anywhere between injector (-) connection pin and the (-) connection at the battery. I have a switch like this for all different kinds of electrical testing and whatnot, and in this case, I just tape it to the floor next to the block of wood my test battery sits on. Can just tap it w your foot, not have to pay attention to the battery and be able to focus on what you're doing with the injector better, AND have the other hand free to hold a beer or whatever. Safety glasses are never a bad idea. Noone should really have to mention that, but someone always ought to. Risking your eyesight, facial disfigurement, burning down your garage, or any combination of the above is a good payback on my two cents...
Awesome video👊 One question though the fuel injection rail on the airbox for the 2013 675r does it only spray when you open the throttle up on high acceleration? or os it suppose to spray with the injectors on the intake ?
Nice video..Need some help if you have some info...Was out riding my daughters 675 when the regulator went bad. I swapped out the regulator tested it, and then dropped the fuel tank off the bike while securing the regulator. Broke the fuel supply elbow and ripped the wires out of the right side connector. Replaced fuel pump...Question..(two connectors) getting power to right connector that was damaged. Upon key on and cranking. The left connector I am getting nothing. Does the right side connector feed the left? or do they work independently? When should the left side connector be hot?
There should not be much wobble in tank. Make sure the sleeve that the screw slides through is in place. Once the 2 screws at the front of the tank are snugged down, it should not move much at all. Make sure nothing is pinched under the tank which would prevent it from seating properly. That would make the tank a little loose.
Andrew Lewis so I was pretty much ignorant to the fact that there are a couple rubber stops in there smh. Found them both and it was fine. Also have you had any trouble with the battery, stator, r/r? I literally had them all replaced and my battery will not keep a charge. It dies even after an hour of riding.
There was a technical service bulliten that came out in 2010 or 2011 that replaces a charging part under the seat. Not sured what the part is called, but it caused enough charging problems with triumphs, that the dealer is repairing it for free. My daytona is a 2008, and it had not been done. The dealer I went to fixed it while I waited. Took a couple hours.
Thanks for describing that orange quick release clip - I was worried about breaking the spigot on the fuel pump like you mentioned. None of the videos describe that as clearly as you did - awesome.
Thanks very much for showing the fuel line removal, much appreciated.
CAUTION:
This might be a simple oversight, but mentioning that carb and injector cleaners are extremely flammable, definitely keep the spark of the battery as far away from this process as you can, vapors are not just flammable, they're explosive when they ignite.
Best way to do this, is connect the circuit to open your injectors on the NEGATIVE (-) side of the battery. In fact, anytime you connect a battery, you always connect to the negative LAST, as the much smaller spark decreases explosive potential. (Battery vapors can also be explosive, fyi, but generally aren't present in sufficient quantities to impart serious danger. The chemicals inside, and when they DO explode, however, are viciously dangerous.)
Safer and easier still, wire up a spring loaded switch (called a momentary switch) anywhere between injector (-) connection pin and the (-) connection at the battery. I have a switch like this for all different kinds of electrical testing and whatnot, and in this case, I just tape it to the floor next to the block of wood my test battery sits on. Can just tap it w your foot, not have to pay attention to the battery and be able to focus on what you're doing with the injector better, AND have the other hand free to hold a beer or whatever. Safety glasses are never a bad idea. Noone should really have to mention that, but someone always ought to.
Risking your eyesight, facial disfigurement, burning down your garage, or any combination of the above is a good payback on my two cents...
u shoukd make a video please it’s kinda hard to understand on text
Wouldn't it be better to squirt in from injector nozzle end? If anything got in there to block it, it needs to go out the way it came?
daytona 955i comes with 01F006A part num.. can i replace them with 01F003A? As they look exactly the same and have equal length
Awesome video👊 One question though the fuel injection rail on the airbox for the 2013 675r does it only spray when you open the throttle up on high acceleration? or os it suppose to spray with the injectors on the intake ?
Im not sure. The nearest triumph service shop can answer that for you, Good luck
Nice video..Need some help if you have some info...Was out riding my daughters 675 when the regulator went bad. I swapped out the regulator tested it, and then dropped the fuel tank off the bike while securing the regulator. Broke the fuel supply elbow and ripped the wires out of the right side connector. Replaced fuel pump...Question..(two connectors) getting power to right connector that was damaged. Upon key on and cranking. The left connector I am getting nothing. Does the right side connector feed the left? or do they work independently? When should the left side connector be hot?
Not sure. Never had to go into the electrical system. There should be some info or stats on the electrical system on internet. Good luck.
Does anyone what that one sensor is(1:24)
It's the Mass Air Flow sensor.
Good video!!
carabetta cleaner is a bit harder to come by in Australia. can I use WD40?
WD40 should work fine
is there a little wobble in the tank after it is replaced?
There should not be much wobble in tank. Make sure the sleeve that the screw slides through is in place. Once the 2 screws at the front of the tank are snugged down, it should not move much at all. Make sure nothing is pinched under the tank which would prevent it from seating properly. That would make the tank a little loose.
Andrew Lewis so I was pretty much ignorant to the fact that there are a couple rubber stops in there smh. Found them both and it was fine. Also have you had any trouble with the battery, stator, r/r? I literally had them all replaced and my battery will not keep a charge. It dies even after an hour of riding.
There was a technical service bulliten that came out in 2010 or 2011 that replaces a charging part under the seat. Not sured what the part is called, but it caused enough charging problems with triumphs, that the dealer is repairing it for free. My daytona is a 2008, and it had not been done. The dealer I went to fixed it while I waited. Took a couple hours.
I believe the part is the regulator.