Seriously man… thank you. I’ve been struggling with my remodel and where to put what and how to retrofit certain things. You explained everything so well. Thanks again!
OUTSTANDING! Thank you for being very aware of what to speed through and what to take your time to explain. I especially appreciate the little hacks you mentioned for things like PEX, which I have yet to work with!
I hope you put an access panel for those in wall shut off valves... I was thinking as you were painting; "Hope he turned those shut off valves on"... lol
great video that's the exact shower we are gonna go with in our bathroom update! we are also pulling out a outdated 70s model tub with tile to the ceiling lol. i cant wait to try this for myself wish us luck we will need it.
I don’t know... it might look a little funny if everything doesn’t line up (plumbing and/or tub/walls). Also, it depends on where your shower curtain would be because you wouldn’t want 12” of sheetrock exposed and getting wet during the shower.🤷♂️
I have heard that flex pipe is banned by a lot of plumbing codes. I once had a garbage disposal that official maintenance refused to work on until the flex pipe was removed.
I wouldn’t normally use it, but because water will almost never go down it (unless the tub overflow is needed) I decided to make an exception. I can’t speak to whether it is code or not.
But you're saying is kind of old news. It used to be that way but over the years it's made a comeback the plastic that is. I guess those idiots and clouds are claiming the new plastic doesn't cause cancer like the old plastic.
When you put up the sheetrock around the tub did you cut away a little of the back at the bottom to accommodate the fiberglass flange/lip where it's secured to the wall?
The drywall lays over the fiberglass flange/lip. I predrilled the holes before screwing the drywall in through the flange so that it wouldn’t crack. I didn’t cut away any of the flange/lip. I hope that helps.
@@rutterrealtygc What I mean is did you cut away any of the SHEETROCK since it would not lay flat on the wall since the flange/lip was not flush with the studs.
The manufacturer recommended caulking that gap. If you use the caulk I mentioned in previous comments, you shouldn't have issues with mold. :) Best of luck on your project!
Thank you! Very useful, thanks for taking the time for the video. When attaching surround to studs, you mention apply "adhesive", it looks like you used DAP 3.0. Was DAP 3.0 used for both: sealant (waterproofing) & adhesive (stick the panels to the walls)? If you used something else for the sticking the panels to the walls, what was it? How long did you have the self-made stud support to the surround...was wondering instead of building that, if I could just push with my hands for a few minutes 1 section at a time for a couple of minutes. Thanks.
Hey Brian, I called the manufacturer for this and they said that I should use the DAP 3.0 for both. 👍 Also, it isn’t something that you can just hold for a few minutes. I think I left the bracing there for 24hrs.
The tile is supposed to go over the lip of the tub so that when the water runs down the wall tiles it enters the tub. If you aren't using the wall set, most people would probably tell you to use a waterproof membrane that wouldn't allow water to penetrate and gaps in your grout or tile and get onto the brick. Hope that helps!
Hi Ryan great video enjoyed it.Quick question which I am sort of confused.When placing one acrylic panel next to another creating 90 degree most manufacturers have sort of overlapping engagement that seals the water out however I have seen some installers placing caulking behind as extra assurance however I am more worried mold growing on caulking which happens over time and perhaps something that was not needed to begin with.What do you think.Thank you
I. Stalled it according to the manufacturer’s recommendation. They recommended sealing them with caulk, so I did. Realistically, it would be hard for water to get back there, but if you have kids and they like slinging cups of water around at bath time, it’s probably the best to caulk the seams.
Necessary? No. Convenient, so as not to disturb the rest of the home’s water supply while the project gets finished, yes. There is access to these valves on the pop-out access panel on the backside of the wall.
Hi, nice job, I had a guy install that same Delta 400 classic surround with the matching tub. We have a big problem with the walls, they flex when leaned on and now the caulk keeps separating in the joints. Would not using adhesive on the studs cause that?
Hey mrc6870, Where are the walls flexing? Mine aren’t flexing at all and feel completely solid. Though, that is because I added the manufacturer recommended support boards in between the studs on the back wall and even had to add extra studs because of how few there were from the original wall. The instructions that come with the shower wall set specify wall supports recommended and using adhesive to secure the wall set to the studs. If either of those steps weren’t done, I’d imagine you could have that issue. 😬
@@rutterrealtygc I don't think he read the instructions at all. It gives on the side wall pretty much all over. I think I'm just going to take it out and start over.
According to the manufacturer recommended install, no. Just install it directly to the studs. The manufacturer did instruct to put those few 2x4s in between the vertical studs (as shown).👍😊 Thank you for the feedback and best of luck to your future projects!
The problem is there's NO manufacturer's recommendations whatsoever; just the 3 pieces: tub, walls, and roof, for the alcove. That's it. This is why I asked you.
Hi Ryan, thanks for the video. Very informative. I had the same tub and walls installed in my home and I am noticing water dripping from the end to the floor. Looks like those crevices retain water and then escape at the end. What do you recommend I do here? According to the installers manual it’s a caulk less design but it appears it may need caulking?
Great question. The shower wall will stick out further where it meets up with the tub and the installation guide direct installers to install the panels directly to the studs. Also, the lip of the wall set on the sides of the panel won’t be able to recess under the adjoining drywall. My walls feel solid without the use of backer board. Definitely do the recommended bracing and cross bracing because i’ve heard of people who say that their walls feel flimsy and move, but that is either because they didn’t have the correct bracing or they didn’t follow the instructions that told them to use adhesive to secure the wall set to the studs. I hope this helps!
@@rutterrealtygc a contractor working next door took a look and said it was out of plumb and that was the issue. i am a newbie with father in law helping. we have been trying to be as professional as possible. gonna take a step back and re-do some of the steps.
The ones that I have used strictly require soldering in copper pipe or using another solid metal pipe. The manufacturer of your faucet should say what it recommends in the installation manual. I don’t know of any manufacturer that recommends or allows pex due to its flexible nature.
It's not only that it's flexible but bc of the sheer volume. Using pex for your down spout will restrict flow and force water up to your shower head. Even if you use 3/4" pex. Any installation I have or other contractors/ plumbers have done use copper for down spout.
@@TheMrhighclimber I was looking to see if anyone covered that and thank you. I've seen people use pex down to the spout connection and then put a pex to 1/2" wingback elbow on the bottom and screw in a piece of copper with a male adapter and use a slide on tub spout with the Allen set screw in the spout. It would work if it was just a soaker tub (no shower) but like you said the pex is restrictive and works like a half or so closed diverter and the resulting back pressure makes water divert a bit and go up the shower pipe when you open the faucet full open or even half open as water wants to take the easiest rout and the pexed spout makes it like a 1 lane blocked road so the lazy water guys take the bypass and half of them go out the spout and the other half take the bypass due to the restriction in the road. I love long sentences. If ya don't know what a male adapter or wingback elbow or AKA wingback 90 is look it up on google images, we can't tell you every thing. 😜 And Ryan, if your tub/shower valve instructions told you to use the copper pipe to the spout that's a good product, some don't tell you much because its been translated 4 times before it gets to you, if it said it in the first place at all.
VERY CAREFULLY! 😊 See the 7:19 in the video. Give yourself a point of reference where where the spout and handle are located. Here, I use the outside of the tub measuring to where the spout is and then measure up from there to get the dimensions for the height of my spout and handle. If I had any advice, measure multiple times and double check your corresponding measures on your shower wall before you start drilling. Also, after you have double checked everything, you can make a tiny pilot hole to make sure that everything is lining up with your measurements. The handle hole gives you more of a margin of error because you can create a small pilot hole and then adjust it as needed. The spout hole is already so small, there is not as much “adjusting” room once the pilot hole has been drilled. Worst case scenario, you can adjust the fixture and tub spout to line up with the holes that you created if needed. Just make sure that the holes you drill are in line vertically for the best visual appeal.👍
Hey man, what was your total install time. Start to ready to use. Thanks for the content. Definitely going to use this as a guide. I just purchased the same bundle from Depot. Cheers!
It probably took me a week while working around a full-time job. I probably could’ve done it in 2, maybe 3 days (depending on sheetrock mud dry time and paint), if I could have had dedicated time to work on it.👍😊
@@davidsinger5861 doing a bathroom yourself does not cost “a lot”. This tub and surround are less than $700. We’re redoing our entire bathroom, and though we aren’t replacing the toilet or vanity, and have the baseboard already, we still wouldn’t spend more than $3,000. With the tub, floor tile, and all the new fixtures and materials, we’re well under $2,000 right now. A new toilet would be about $200, and a new vanity would be around $400. Bathrooms aren’t that expensive.
Great question! The bathroom is about 5ft x 9ft and the tub fits in the standard 5ft space. I am 6'2" and the tub is just long enough for me to sit upright with my legs straight in the tub. I recommend going to the store and sitting in the tubs before purchasing (that's what I did) :). Best of luck with your project.
I don’t know what you’re considering the “lip” to be, but you’re correct in saying the drywall should not come in contact with top “shelf” (where water might sit if splashed up) of the wall set. As stated in the video (Around 9:30), bring it within 1/8” and then caulk the gap so water doesn’t get drawn up into the drywall, causing water damage..👍
Yes, you do need to tape between the old and new drywall seams or else you’ll see cracks that will form at the joints. I use the fiber grid tape that has adhesive on one side (not the paper cheap stuff) and either pro form all purpose joint compound or USG “Sheetrock brand” joint compound in the 5 Gallon buckets. I usually backfill larger holes with compound first before applying the tape. I hope that helps and best of luck on your projects!
The "paper cheap stuff" is significantly better than the fiber mesh tape. Either way they are both required to be installed the same way. A layer of compound, then tape, then another layer of compound. Unless you have the fancy taping tool which I believe only works with the paper tape.
I did, yes. You can insert the shower head extension that comes through the wall with a cap on the end or in this instance, I just connected the shower head and let it run into the tub, while inspecting for leaks. 👍
The cut an access panel in the closet wall behind the tub which gave me access. The slab has about a 12”x12” opening where the plumbing comes up from under the house.
You would just get the correct tub (left or right hand facing drain) and drill the hole in the shower wall on the opposite side where your plumbing is, if I’m understanding you correctly.👍
@@rutterrealtygc the hole in the tub for the faucet is directly above the drain. I guess we could plug it and cut a faucet hole on the other end of the tub? Does that seem practical?
kay booth Hey. The hole for the faucet handle that turns the water on and off as well as the tub spout (where the water comes out) are both located on the shower wall and not the tub. The only two holes located on the tub should be the drain hole and drain overflow hole, both of which are associated with draining water and not the water supply or faucet. Are you saying that your current tub (if doing a remodel) has another hole for the tub spout and/or faucet (such as a garden tub or jet tub)? If so, how is it currently plumbed?
@@rutterrealtygc I get it! Now it makes sense what the hole was for. I haven’t had a bathtub in years and had forgotten. Thanks for your input. Really helpful.
Mine left enough room on the back side for Sheetrock to go behind so now have to figure out how to fill that area and not make the bathroom look bad. Wish it would have just went straight to the boards. Smh
Hey KC Creations, No, you do not have to replace the current plumbing that goes to the tub. This particular house was built in the 70s and it was just easier to work with the materials by making everything new. Also, I wanted a more updated look for the bathroom, which is the reason why I changed out the plumbing fixtures to a single handle faucet.
@@rutterrealtygc Great thanks for the response man! We are about to replace our tub and it should be the same as the old one so I'm hoping to use the same drain pipe and fixtures for it!
There’s no insulation on this wall because it’s an interior wall. The moisture barrier is the shower wall itself unless you’re referring to it not being an exterior wall again. It is installed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and specs. 👍😊
@@rutterrealtygc I've Never seen it done that way...maybe California is different, we use insulation on interior walls and then place a moisture barrier over the insulation in-between the wall and shower panels...but if it works it works
For this particular installation, I’d probably charge within the realm of $2000 - $2400 for labor (materials were roughly around $1000) making for a total of around $3000 - $3400. However, I typically don’t do contract work for others unless they are close friends or family. 😊 Keep in mind that all markets are different and the demand is different everywhere. Your market prices may not reflect the same as ours. Also, if you hire someone that is new in the business, they will typically do it for less as they get into the market, but a seasoned plumber or contractor, will more likely charge more. I hope this helps!
The material is thin, but flexible and has a very good ratings for durability which is the main reason that I installed it in this future rental. The walls are solid when installed properly. Aren’t all remodel pop-in showers a bead of caulk away from “failing” (assuming you mean a leak)? The pieces actually overlap with a pretty substantial lip, so you’d have to have pretty forceful water hit a seam (assuming you had no caulk) to leak behind the tub, let alone a lacking portion of caulk. I’d say the chances of a bead of caulk failing are pretty slim. We’ve had ours about a year and it still looks and functions great.👍 Best of luck on your projects and I hope your shower turns out great!
Obviously it doesn't mean that it can't happen... But we definitely have mice around our house (and occasionally in) and have both plastic 1990s manufactured home piping which is soft like PEX, and actual pex. No issues with mice damage
Liked that peace and God bless at the end, I would suggest you work with a professional plumber to learn proper plumbing techniques and correct plumbing materials to uses you make too many mistakes to mention but with the proper training you could become good at this kind of work. I been in the trade for over 40 years and as a young man trained by lic. Plumbers
I was taught not to use compression fittings/valves behind walls unless it’s temporary of course. Not saying it’s wrong to do it your way but a soldered joint is always better than compression so I’ve always used shark bites just to turn water back on for homeowners while walls are opened up and after demo is completed the first thing I do is solder new shower valve and angle stops first thing in morning so I can address any leaky joints and walk away at end of day with confidence of no leaks before covering walls back up. Just another way to skin a cat!
Definitely would be better! They have been good. It was mostly done to show people that they could perform a remodel such as this using different techniques. Thanks for dropping the comment!👍😊
I wish I’ll be able to demo and install my new tub/shower surround in less than 10 minutes… I see about 10 trips to the hardware store to be honest lol
But clogs happen and snakes can go through plastic fairly easily. If for any reason it needs replaced in future it's just a headache for the next person. Plumbers putty is what SHOULD be used on the tub drain. On lav drains, kitchen drains, etc. You also said something about using plumbers putty on threads which is incorrect. And when soldering a joint you always heat the joint side not the pipe side to draw the solder into the joint. Capillary attraction.
Seriously man… thank you. I’ve been struggling with my remodel and where to put what and how to retrofit certain things. You explained everything so well. Thanks again!
Awesome! So glad it helped!
thank you for making a DIY video that cuts the BS and gets to the install. very informative.
You’re welcome! I hope it was helpful!!😁
OUTSTANDING! Thank you for being very aware of what to speed through and what to take your time to explain. I especially appreciate the little hacks you mentioned for things like PEX, which I have yet to work with!
Thanks for the feedback!😊
You are awesome! First time homeowner with a bathroom remodel on my to do list.
Best of luck with your project! I hope it turns out great!
You make it look so easy, definition of professional…
Thank you!
I swear our original showers were identical...thanks for posting!
😆 Goodbye to the 70’s!! Lol
It helped me alot. Now I'll probably replay as I'm moving along. Thank you and God Bless.
Awesome! Thank you for the positive feedback! Best of luck!!
Thanks by the way. I'm currently doing my whole bathroom (including new subfloor). Definitely picked up some tricks. Definitely gained a subscription.
Thanks for the comment! Best of luck!!
This is good more quicker faster job than the tiles, waterproof membrane. Same shower panel more quicker.
I hope you put an access panel for those in wall shut off valves... I was thinking as you were painting; "Hope he turned those shut off valves on"... lol
LOL! I do have an access panel.👍😊
Doing the same fiber glass design this weekend thanks I feel more confident now 💆♂️😎 thanks
Way to go!!! I hope it goes great!!!👍😊
Very informative I'm most likely will be installing this summer I'll use the video.your a professional.
Thanks for the comment Larry. Best of luck to you on your project!
This was excellent. Thank you much. You did a great clean, neat job from start to finish :)
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback! God bless!
Thank you for the helpful info. I will be using what I learned from you today to install two new bath/shower combos. Thank you so much
Way to go! Best of luck in your projects!
Good job telling/showing us what kind of sealant you used. I love guessing. 🙄
I’ve responded to this in several comments.👍
great video that's the exact shower we are gonna go with in our bathroom update! we are also pulling out a outdated 70s model tub with tile to the ceiling lol. i cant wait to try this for myself wish us luck we will need it.
Totally understand! 😆 Oh, the 70’s! It will definitely be a dramatic transformation! I hope your project goes amazingly!!👍😊
Same here, redoing ours that’s from the 70s it seems as well.
Question ? what if you want to replace it with a larger tub ? Wider by 12 inches .Love the shark bites,I use them all the time .
I don’t know... it might look a little funny if everything doesn’t line up (plumbing and/or tub/walls). Also, it depends on where your shower curtain would be because you wouldn’t want 12” of sheetrock exposed and getting wet during the shower.🤷♂️
I have heard that flex pipe is banned by a lot of plumbing codes. I once had a garbage disposal that official maintenance refused to work on until the flex pipe was removed.
I wouldn’t normally use it, but because water will almost never go down it (unless the tub overflow is needed) I decided to make an exception. I can’t speak to whether it is code or not.
But you're saying is kind of old news.
It used to be that way but over the years it's made a comeback the plastic that is. I guess those idiots and clouds are claiming the new plastic doesn't cause cancer like the old plastic.
Man this is wild...I went to UM with you. I thought you looked familiar and then I saw the name.
LOL! Awesome! Shoot me a message on FB because I don’t know who gman4dx266 is. 😆 I hope you are doing well!
When you put up the sheetrock around the tub did you cut away a little of the back at the bottom to accommodate the fiberglass flange/lip where it's secured to the wall?
The drywall lays over the fiberglass flange/lip. I predrilled the holes before screwing the drywall in through the flange so that it wouldn’t crack. I didn’t cut away any of the flange/lip. I hope that helps.
@@rutterrealtygc What I mean is did you cut away any of the SHEETROCK since it would not lay flat on the wall since the flange/lip was not flush with the studs.
Do you put caulk on the bottom where the side wall meets the tub? I think mold would develop in the small cracks.
The manufacturer recommended caulking that gap. If you use the caulk I mentioned in previous comments, you shouldn't have issues with mold. :) Best of luck on your project!
I love the installation of the shark bite valve. It’s my favorite part lol. thank you for all your hard work and information. ! 🫡
Thanks for the feedback! Best of luck on your project! :)
Good video, tad bit more instruction or mention of small details would have made it a bit better but was what I needed to see. Appreciate it
Thanks! Best of luck with your project!!
Exactly what i was looking for thanks
Awesome! Best of luck with your project!
Thank you! Very useful, thanks for taking the time for the video. When attaching surround to studs, you mention apply "adhesive", it looks like you used DAP 3.0. Was DAP 3.0 used for both: sealant (waterproofing) & adhesive (stick the panels to the walls)? If you used something else for the sticking the panels to the walls, what was it? How long did you have the self-made stud support to the surround...was wondering instead of building that, if I could just push with my hands for a few minutes 1 section at a time for a couple of minutes. Thanks.
Hey Brian,
I called the manufacturer for this and they said that I should use the DAP 3.0 for both. 👍 Also, it isn’t something that you can just hold for a few minutes. I think I left the bracing there for 24hrs.
Thx Mr Ryan now for us in Uganda we build using bricks and our bathrooms are not so big can I install the tub on a tiled walls direct thx
The tile is supposed to go over the lip of the tub so that when the water runs down the wall tiles it enters the tub. If you aren't using the wall set, most people would probably tell you to use a waterproof membrane that wouldn't allow water to penetrate and gaps in your grout or tile and get onto the brick. Hope that helps!
Hi Ryan great video enjoyed it.Quick question which I am sort of confused.When placing one acrylic panel next to another creating 90 degree most manufacturers have sort of overlapping engagement that seals the water out however I have seen some installers placing caulking behind as extra assurance however I am more worried mold growing on caulking which happens over time and perhaps something that was not needed to begin with.What do you think.Thank you
I. Stalled it according to the manufacturer’s recommendation. They recommended sealing them with caulk, so I did. Realistically, it would be hard for water to get back there, but if you have kids and they like slinging cups of water around at bath time, it’s probably the best to caulk the seams.
What is the Brown piping that you hook to the valve for the pcp to connect to
What’s pcp?
Was it necessary to install two shut off valves if there's no access to them?
Necessary? No. Convenient, so as not to disturb the rest of the home’s water supply while the project gets finished, yes. There is access to these valves on the pop-out access panel on the backside of the wall.
Can you use this is a mobile home. I want to do a budget renovation. Take tub out. It’s a vacation home. Not looking for fancy just updated. Thanks
I would imagine that as long as the tub dimensions and shower wall height are the same/will fit in the space, I don’t know what it wouldn’t work. 👍
Great job 👏🏼
Thank you!
Great video
Thanks!
Did you caulk the vertical gaps between the tub wall components and the bottom gap between the wall and the tub?
I did. The manufacturer instructed to do so.👌
🤔 I think I have a project coming up lol
Good video man.
Thanks Kenny! Best of luck and let me know how it goes!!👍😊
Hi, nice job, I had a guy install that same Delta 400 classic surround with the matching tub. We have a big problem with the walls, they flex when leaned on and now the caulk keeps separating in the joints. Would not using adhesive on the studs cause that?
Hey mrc6870,
Where are the walls flexing? Mine aren’t flexing at all and feel completely solid. Though, that is because I added the manufacturer recommended support boards in between the studs on the back wall and even had to add extra studs because of how few there were from the original wall. The instructions that come with the shower wall set specify wall supports recommended and using adhesive to secure the wall set to the studs. If either of those steps weren’t done, I’d imagine you could have that issue. 😬
@@rutterrealtygc I don't think he read the instructions at all. It gives on the side wall pretty much all over. I think I'm just going to take it out and start over.
Super tidy. 👌
Thanks!
Great video sir thank you. Could you use shark bites all the way?
What do you mean “all the way”?
When installing the wall do you need drywall behind it
You would not want drywall behind the shower wall, no.
Question. You don’t need a durarock board behind the plastic panels? Love you videos very professional! Thanks Steve
According to the manufacturer recommended install, no. Just install it directly to the studs. The manufacturer did instruct to put those few 2x4s in between the vertical studs (as shown).👍😊 Thank you for the feedback and best of luck to your future projects!
@@rutterrealtygcnice bro I am plumbing my country India City New Delhi
How do you level the tub, making it perfectly horizontal?
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Some might suggest shims, others a mortar bed, etc. Depends on the tub manufacturer and model.
The problem is there's NO manufacturer's recommendations whatsoever; just the 3 pieces: tub, walls, and roof, for the alcove. That's it. This is why I asked you.
My brother and I were thinking of replacing my tub insert. I don’t have the 3 knobs like the old style is there still going to be said wrong involved?
Hopefully that will make it a little easier for you. It’s the finish work that takes the most work.😊
@@rutterrealtygc lol I literally have no idea what I meant there with said wrong involved 😂 I think I meant soldering
Thanks for the helpful video. What kind of caulk did you use between the sheetrock and the tub surround?
DAP 3.0 100% waterproof and paintable advanced hybrid sealant 10 year mold and mildew resistant microban
DAP 3.0 100% waterproof and paintable advanced hybrid sealant 10 year mold and mildew resistant microban
So, when did your solder joints start leaking?
They didn’t. Thanks for the comment
Hi Ryan, thanks for the video. Very informative. I had the same tub and walls installed in my home and I am noticing water dripping from the end to the floor. Looks like those crevices retain water and then escape at the end. What do you recommend I do here? According to the installers manual it’s a caulk less design but it appears it may need caulking?
Hey! If you did get the same exact tub and shower kit, the manufacturer recommends caulking all the seams in the installation instructions.👍😊
Did you create an access panel for your shutoff valves?
Yes, I put a small plastic pop-in panel.👍😊
Can you add a backer board behind the surround? For added durability. I tend to lean against the walls when I shower.
Great question. The shower wall will stick out further where it meets up with the tub and the installation guide direct installers to install the panels directly to the studs. Also, the lip of the wall set on the sides of the panel won’t be able to recess under the adjoining drywall. My walls feel solid without the use of backer board. Definitely do the recommended bracing and cross bracing because i’ve heard of people who say that their walls feel flimsy and move, but that is either because they didn’t have the correct bracing or they didn’t follow the instructions that told them to use adhesive to secure the wall set to the studs. I hope this helps!
Seems to me instead of adding a backer board you could always add more studs as long as they aren't getting in the way of anything else
Thanks for sharing! Do you think this surround will fit over a cast iron tub with same measurements
No, it will not fit over (at least it wouldn’t fit over our old steel tub).👍
Having problems with an A2 kit snapping into place. Any tricks to get the pieces to seat properly?
Sorry, just seeing this! Still working on it? Where is it getting hung up?
@@rutterrealtygc a contractor working next door took a look and said it was out of plumb and that was the issue. i am a newbie with father in law helping. we have been trying to be as professional as possible. gonna take a step back and re-do some of the steps.
What kind of sealant was used for the drain piece?
DAP 3.0 Kitchen and Bath adhesive/caulk. The link is in the description of the video.
How come uou didnt add the waterproofing boards? Or is that only for standing shower? Do a video on standing shower with backsplash :)
😁 Okay, I’ll do it! This wall kit doesn’t require waterproofing boards and was installed according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.👍😊
Do you have to use copper pipe for the bottom faucet? Or do they make some that can be used with pex?
The ones that I have used strictly require soldering in copper pipe or using another solid metal pipe. The manufacturer of your faucet should say what it recommends in the installation manual. I don’t know of any manufacturer that recommends or allows pex due to its flexible nature.
@@rutterrealtygc thanks
gtdodgeviper You’re more than welcome!👍😊
It's not only that it's flexible but bc of the sheer volume. Using pex for your down spout will restrict flow and force water up to your shower head. Even if you use 3/4" pex. Any installation I have or other contractors/ plumbers have done use copper for down spout.
@@TheMrhighclimber I was looking to see if anyone covered that and thank you. I've seen people use pex down to the spout connection and then put a pex to 1/2" wingback elbow on the bottom and screw in a piece of copper with a male adapter and use a slide on tub spout with the Allen set screw in the spout. It would work if it was just a soaker tub (no shower) but like you said the pex is restrictive and works like a half or so closed diverter and the resulting back pressure makes water divert a bit and go up the shower pipe when you open the faucet full open or even half open as water wants to take the easiest rout and the pexed spout makes it like a 1 lane blocked road so the lazy water guys take the bypass and half of them go out the spout and the other half take the bypass due to the restriction in the road. I love long sentences. If ya don't know what a male adapter or wingback elbow or AKA wingback 90 is look it up on google images, we can't tell you every thing. 😜
And Ryan, if your tub/shower valve instructions told you to use the copper pipe to the spout that's a good product, some don't tell you much because its been translated 4 times before it gets to you, if it said it in the first place at all.
How do you get measurements to make holes on new wall for shower fixtures?
VERY CAREFULLY! 😊 See the 7:19 in the video. Give yourself a point of reference where where the spout and handle are located. Here, I use the outside of the tub measuring to where the spout is and then measure up from there to get the dimensions for the height of my spout and handle. If I had any advice, measure multiple times and double check your corresponding measures on your shower wall before you start drilling. Also, after you have double checked everything, you can make a tiny pilot hole to make sure that everything is lining up with your measurements. The handle hole gives you more of a margin of error because you can create a small pilot hole and then adjust it as needed. The spout hole is already so small, there is not as much “adjusting” room once the pilot hole has been drilled. Worst case scenario, you can adjust the fixture and tub spout to line up with the holes that you created if needed. Just make sure that the holes you drill are in line vertically for the best visual appeal.👍
@@rutterrealtygc thank you! Figured it out, was just over thinking it to much, thank you for the video and response!
Does that big valve you mounted to the board come with your shower fixtures set??
Yes, it does. Mounting instructions are in the box as well.👍😊
damn...how long did it take till completion and associated cost ? Thanks.
Around $1000 total and about four days due to drywall dry time.👍
Can you use the shower right when your done cause I got mines done yesterday
Sorry for the late reply! You should be able to use it as soon as the caulk is dry.👍😊
Hey man, what was your total install time. Start to ready to use. Thanks for the content. Definitely going to use this as a guide. I just purchased the same bundle from Depot. Cheers!
It probably took me a week while working around a full-time job. I probably could’ve done it in 2, maybe 3 days (depending on sheetrock mud dry time and paint), if I could have had dedicated time to work on it.👍😊
@@rutterrealtygc how much would a project like this cost to get done -including shower kit?
@@josephmayfield2556 A lot
@@davidsinger5861 doing a bathroom yourself does not cost “a lot”. This tub and surround are less than $700. We’re redoing our entire bathroom, and though we aren’t replacing the toilet or vanity, and have the baseboard already, we still wouldn’t spend more than $3,000. With the tub, floor tile, and all the new fixtures and materials, we’re well under $2,000 right now. A new toilet would be about $200, and a new vanity would be around $400. Bathrooms aren’t that expensive.
Can I put this up over existing tiles ?
No, this shower kit was not designed to do that.
Good job !
Thanks!
I'm confused? Those shut off valves don't need to be sodered in?
No, they're sharkbite connections. They just push on. :)
@@rutterrealtygc Awsome, you did say the other video. I just didn't fully comprehend.
About what size was that bathroom and would that tub fit a 6ft person?
Great question! The bathroom is about 5ft x 9ft and the tub fits in the standard 5ft space. I am 6'2" and the tub is just long enough for me to sit upright with my legs straight in the tub. I recommend going to the store and sitting in the tubs before purchasing (that's what I did) :). Best of luck with your project.
@@rutterrealtygc thanks !!!
What professional plumber would
use a shark bite. The o rings dryrot easy and leak.
Good to know. You should make a video about that. 😊
my kit said not to bring drywall on to lip of wall you go flush then mud the lip in .
I don’t know what you’re considering the “lip” to be, but you’re correct in saying the drywall should not come in contact with top “shelf” (where water might sit if splashed up) of the wall set. As stated in the video (Around 9:30), bring it within 1/8” and then caulk the gap so water doesn’t get drawn up into the drywall, causing water damage..👍
Hello: I was wondering how much will cost me if I want this job for my bathroom.
Thanks
Are you doing it yourself or are you paying someone else to do it?
@@rutterrealtygc paying
Wondering what type of adhesive did you use on the shower walls? BTW nice video
DAP 3.0 100% waterproof and paintable advanced hybrid sealant 10 year mold and mildew resistant microban
Do you not caulk around where the 2 piece meet?
Manufacturer recommends that you do!
No need to tape the gaps between the old and new drywall pieces? What compound do you recommend?
Yes, you do need to tape between the old and new drywall seams or else you’ll see cracks that will form at the joints. I use the fiber grid tape that has adhesive on one side (not the paper cheap stuff) and either pro form all purpose joint compound or USG “Sheetrock brand” joint compound in the 5 Gallon buckets. I usually backfill larger holes with compound first before applying the tape. I hope that helps and best of luck on your projects!
The "paper cheap stuff" is significantly better than the fiber mesh tape. Either way they are both required to be installed the same way. A layer of compound, then tape, then another layer of compound. Unless you have the fancy taping tool which I believe only works with the paper tape.
Did you test the water before installing shower?
I did, yes. You can insert the shower head extension that comes through the wall with a cap on the end or in this instance, I just connected the shower head and let it run into the tub, while inspecting for leaks. 👍
There is gap between each piece. Should I fill those gaps?
The manufacturer (if you got the same exact set) recommends caulking those joints.
Should Silicone goes in the panels joins?
Yes, per the installation guide and manufacturer’s recommendations.👍
Thanks Ryan.
Can you add a sliding door to something like this?
Yes.
Thank you! good one easy and simple
Thanks Vino! Best of luck with your project!!
That’s a lot more than I was thinking… dam
😆 The first time I did a tub replacement, I had a friend help. After that, you’ll see how easy it can be.👍😊
Where did you buy that sheet rock/wet rock?
Home Depot or Lowe’s Home improvement.
Was that a concrete slab floor? If so how did u tighten the drain under the floor?
The cut an access panel in the closet wall behind the tub which gave me access. The slab has about a 12”x12” opening where the plumbing comes up from under the house.
can I get you over my house to do? Family is lucky to have you. God bless
😆 Thanks for the compliment! God bless!
How can we install this kit if our plumbing and drain are on opposite sides?
You would just get the correct tub (left or right hand facing drain) and drill the hole in the shower wall on the opposite side where your plumbing is, if I’m understanding you correctly.👍
@@rutterrealtygc the hole in the tub for the faucet is directly above the drain. I guess we could plug it and cut a faucet hole on the other end of the tub? Does that seem practical?
kay booth Hey. The hole for the faucet handle that turns the water on and off as well as the tub spout (where the water comes out) are both located on the shower wall and not the tub. The only two holes located on the tub should be the drain hole and drain overflow hole, both of which are associated with draining water and not the water supply or faucet. Are you saying that your current tub (if doing a remodel) has another hole for the tub spout and/or faucet (such as a garden tub or jet tub)? If so, how is it currently plumbed?
@@rutterrealtygc I get it! Now it makes sense what the hole was for. I haven’t had a bathtub in years and had forgotten. Thanks for your input. Really helpful.
kay booth 😁 You’re more than welcome!!👍😊
Is it possible to retrofit shower surround at 32D with a tub that is 30D??? 😮
I don’t think that’s possible with this particular model tub. You can always contact the manufacturer though.
Thank-you
Thank you! 😊👍
Awesome, can I hire you🤣
Thanks for the complement. 😊
Mine left enough room on the back side for Sheetrock to go behind so now have to figure out how to fill that area and not make the bathroom look bad. Wish it would have just went straight to the boards. Smh
You can add shims between the studs and the tub. That’s what I did. 👍
@@rutterrealtygc mine beyond shims
How do you add just a shower over a bathtub
So just clarifying, how do you add a shower wall set over an existing tub?
No drywall tape ?
Great question. I didn’t include that part in the video, but after putting on a coat I put the tape on after. Sorry it wasn’t in the take!
Thank for the tips where do you get wet rock at?
Local Lowe’s or Home Depot.
If I only have a shower, I guess I need to add where a bathtub hot/cold would come out? Not only a shower head?
Are you wanting to add a tub spout so you’ll have a tub/shower instead of just a shower?
@@rutterrealtygc yes! I hate not having a bathtub! And so we only have a walk in shower. Wanting to just add an already made bath/tub shower combo!
Shower base installation
I don't have a video for a shower base installation yet! I'll have to add that one to the list! Thanks!
Hey man great work! Do you have to replace the valve and plumbing coming from the tub? And does the tub come with new drain pipe?
Hey KC Creations,
No, you do not have to replace the current plumbing that goes to the tub. This particular house was built in the 70s and it was just easier to work with the materials by making everything new. Also, I wanted a more updated look for the bathroom, which is the reason why I changed out the plumbing fixtures to a single handle faucet.
@@rutterrealtygc Great thanks for the response man! We are about to replace our tub and it should be the same as the old one so I'm hoping to use the same drain pipe and fixtures for it!
Where is the insulation and moisture barrier?
There’s no insulation on this wall because it’s an interior wall. The moisture barrier is the shower wall itself unless you’re referring to it not being an exterior wall again. It is installed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and specs. 👍😊
@@rutterrealtygc I've Never seen it done that way...maybe California is different, we use insulation on interior walls and then place a moisture barrier over the insulation in-between the wall and shower panels...but if it works it works
Do you need a vapor barrier ?
No, the manufacturer installation guide does not recommend installing one.👍
If you were doing that as a job, approximately what would the cost be? I notice you do very careful work. Good job!
For this particular installation, I’d probably charge within the realm of $2000 - $2400 for labor (materials were roughly around $1000) making for a total of around $3000 - $3400. However, I typically don’t do contract work for others unless they are close friends or family. 😊 Keep in mind that all markets are different and the demand is different everywhere. Your market prices may not reflect the same as ours. Also, if you hire someone that is new in the business, they will typically do it for less as they get into the market, but a seasoned plumber or contractor, will more likely charge more. I hope this helps!
@@rutterrealtygc Thank you for the guesstimate and the comment. It helps.
as far as remodel showers go that looks nice but the material is thin and where walls go together is a bead of caulk away from failing
The material is thin, but flexible and has a very good ratings for durability which is the main reason that I installed it in this future rental. The walls are solid when installed properly. Aren’t all remodel pop-in showers a bead of caulk away from “failing” (assuming you mean a leak)? The pieces actually overlap with a pretty substantial lip, so you’d have to have pretty forceful water hit a seam (assuming you had no caulk) to leak behind the tub, let alone a lacking portion of caulk. I’d say the chances of a bead of caulk failing are pretty slim. We’ve had ours about a year and it still looks and functions great.👍 Best of luck on your projects and I hope your shower turns out great!
Well done God bless
Thanks Goodfella! God bless!
How to put in a fiberglass shower
Like a all-in-one set?
if you have mouse issues pex are bad idea.they will chew it
Good to know. Definitely glad we don’t have mice.😁 Mice eat all kinds of things. I don’t know if I’ve heard that one yet...
Obviously it doesn't mean that it can't happen... But we definitely have mice around our house (and occasionally in) and have both plastic 1990s manufactured home piping which is soft like PEX, and actual pex. No issues with mice damage
Liked that peace and God bless at the end, I would suggest you work with a professional plumber to learn proper plumbing techniques and correct plumbing materials to uses you make too many mistakes to mention but with the proper training you could become good at this kind of work. I been in the trade for over 40 years and as a young man trained by lic. Plumbers
Thanks for the comment!👍😁
I was taught not to use compression fittings/valves behind walls unless it’s temporary of course. Not saying it’s wrong to do it your way but a soldered joint is always better than compression so I’ve always used shark bites just to turn water back on for homeowners while walls are opened up and after demo is completed the first thing I do is solder new shower valve and angle stops first thing in morning so I can address any leaky joints and walk away at end of day with confidence of no leaks before covering walls back up. Just another way to skin a cat!
Definitely would be better! They have been good. It was mostly done to show people that they could perform a remodel such as this using different techniques. Thanks for dropping the comment!👍😊
Did you really leave a sharkbite inside a wall?
They are accessible through the access panel on the closet wall that backs up to this bathroom.👍
Don't forget to tape your joints unless you like cracks in your drywall later. Lol!
True that! Yeah, that part of the video didn't make it in, but they're taped! Thanks! :)
Very good gob god pless you amen
Thank you! God bless you as well!😊
I wish I’ll be able to demo and install my new tub/shower surround in less than 10 minutes…
I see about 10 trips to the hardware store to be honest lol
LOL! That’s just part of it, but hopefully watching it will show you what you’ll need.
Don't use sealant on the drain! In 20 years when the drain is corroded, the next person will not be able to replace it. Plumbers putty works fine!
Plastic won’t corrode. 😊
But clogs happen and snakes can go through plastic fairly easily. If for any reason it needs replaced in future it's just a headache for the next person. Plumbers putty is what SHOULD be used on the tub drain. On lav drains, kitchen drains, etc. You also said something about using plumbers putty on threads which is incorrect. And when soldering a joint you always heat the joint side not the pipe side to draw the solder into the joint. Capillary attraction.