McLovin' LithiumSolar's Review of the Big Battery 170AH Battery. Loved Will Prowse's review & also appreciate LithiumSolar's work as well. How awesome is that- (2) GREAT reviewers & add in a dash of the ultimate DIYer- David Poz, and- it's a trifecta of lithium goodness!!! Golly, it makes feel all warm inside... Ok, even I can't take all of this 'seasonal goodness', but...Gotta do my part!
Funny, but I think those lock washers on the fuse are direct descendants of your review of the much larger NMC batteries you tested a few months ago... That hot spot was deeply concerning, causing you to do several adjustments & trialing other solutions...And, I think at the end of the day, it was merely a loose connection! I agree, many people DON'T want to build a big battery bank- this is a GREAT solution for those who don't.
It was backordered when I purchased mine too. Ordered on Nov 4, delivered Nov 21 - not that bad though. I'm going to have to get me a Battleborn one of these days. I keep hearing that's pretty much top of the line for LiFePO4.
I received some comments in the past that people think I only make videos because of being paid, so I try to always be completely upfront and honest with whether or not an particular item was sponsored or purchased. In this case, I am trying to learn all I can about LiFePO4 as that's the direction I'm moving :) I love taking apart pretty much anything I can and learning how it works - batteries being particularly interesting/fascinating.
Good to know BigBattery is doing their part with supplying quality product. Thank you for the test and review! How many actual minutes did your heater operate before the inverter shut down?
@@LithiumSolar I think Lishen makes a good cell too. The Big Battery is impressive. Nice quality and innovative build. I am even warming to the Anderson plug. Quick and easy disconnecdt when needed.
121720/1448h PST. Thanks for the new presentation. This new LiFePo4 battery unit from BIG.BATTERY is a perfect and well designed unit, than many I have seen. The printed battery series connector and the balance modular unit seems to be quite unique, that too, I have not seen before. Well done, BigBattery people. The other salient feature that attracted the attention is the clear acrylic cover placed on the battery PCB and the rubber padding on the metal outer cover, which’d hold the Acrylic board in place from rattling. Very intelligent design, indeed. What is the display unit, if you may, please, shed some light on that device. Thanks once again. Stay safe. 73s...
I agree, very well built! The display is an Samsung Galaxy Tab A. I wrote some custom code to pull data from the Batrium, write it to a MySQL database, then threw together a quick dashboard using Grafana that pulls the data from MySQL and displays on the tablet. It works great for capacity testing!
Awesome review! I wish other tech stuffs (that I am interested in) has detailed and honest review of similar quality. Thanks for your dedication and spending on cool batteries. Please go for a Patreon campaign so that we can be a part of it.
Thanks! Is there anything battery-related you're interested in seeing? I love seeing how these things are built, what's inside, and how they work. I'm happy to buy things here and there that I can make a video out of.
@@LithiumSolar On AMAZON, there is an Eco-Worthy 12 Volt 20 AMP Lithium Iron Phosphate battery for $109.95. I'm interested in that Battery as a build for a suitcase Sized Remote Power Supply for my Ham Radio setup.
The shunt isn't affected by the losses in the cable. Since its measuring amps, they are going to be equal through the whole circuit, and the shunt doesn't care if the energy/heat is being dissipated in the inverter or the wires. I think the test came in a bit lower than rated because of the high draw rate. If it was a 34A load (0.2C) instead of 80 or so amps you would have likely gotten the full 170Ah.
Yes. Cabling loss does not affect the amp hours. It does however cause a voltage loss, hence a loss of power (measured in watts), and loss of energy (measured in kWh). And a lower current drawn might have improved the amp hour. We do not know for sure, without knowing what at what current rating the 170 Ah was specified at.
You guys are right, I was mixing up Ah and Wh. The amps would be unaffected. I will be running another test at a lower C rate and have no doubts it will hit 170Ah.
Build quality looks good. The Ah capacity measurement is not affected by cable drop, just the Wh capacity is affected. Another explanation for the lower-than-rated Ah measurement result could be that the battery was NOT BALANCED.
I wish you and projectfarm had video production teams, so yall could do more nerd stuff and not have to focus on the horror that is editing. great work as always.
I've been watching videos on making your own system. I was going to do that for my small camper and have it portable for my electric boat. After watching this video I'm deciding that what I was going to make is done much better here with this unit. Thanks for the video. I'll be ordering one of these this summer. I just need to find out which anderson connectors I need to connect both the charger and camper to the thing. I think it's the parallel one. I'll have to make sure.
I got the same battery today. So far I'm happy with it. The low voltage on the BMS seemed a little low to me. 9.2 volts showing before it shut down. I always thought 9.8 was the correct voltage . I can live with 9.2.
Charge it up to full, then you can discharge it through your inverter with something like this amzn.to/34lBzFe instead of the Batrium shunt I used here. They're cheap and fairly accurate. There's no need to disassemble anything. I just wanted to see what was inside and how it was put together.
@@LithiumSolar Thank you. I hope it gets here today. Great video. I new to a lot of this but, love it. I am converting my RV to lithium form 200 ah AGM . Moving everything closer together. will have two Big Batteries someday. Thanks
In the last battery I tested, they had a double pole circuit breaker where they had wired both poles in parallel to double the rating of the breaker. I had an issue with a loose connection and the breaker catching when I tried to turn it off. Now obviously, one could use a better quality breaker to solve both of those points, but there aren't many DC-rated breakers of reasonable size for 200A or higher.
@@LithiumSolar gotcha, so its basically availability and cost on their end. I did see your last video and wasn't a fan of how they did that breaker setup.
@@glossyfpv1155 A properly sized breaker would add about $100 to the unit cost. And the unit would be larger & heavier. Fuses cost about $10 so I'd prefer a fuse and just buy a spare (like Bussmann/Eaton/Cooper or Littlefuse, no chinese crap).
I’d like to know if you have any information on building a second battery bank? I have a 24 V bank and need to add another one, not sure how to do it or how to supply the energy to it.
For a battery with a continuous rating of 175A, you would need a 218.75A breaker (250A). The cost and physical size of a proper DC-rated breaker at that ampacity and high enough voltage to allow several of these in series make the fuse a FAR better option.
This is just a battery. You'll need a solar charge controller, which can then be connected to the battery terminals. OR purchase an inverter that contains an MPPT built in, such as MPP Solar. The inverter I used for testing here is just an inverter - no charging functionality.
@@LithiumSolar I was wondering the same. There is only one place to connect the Anderson plug. Is that one connection for both an input from a charge controller, and the output? Maybe using the parallel cable set from their website?
I've had my eye on Big Batt. Enjoyed the tear down and test. The series connections on the PCB seamed pretty light. I wanted to see the underside of that PCB board. I guess there are buss bars in that board? Can you tell the size of the bars? I wish they had the premade Anderson connections with large gauge wires. If I buy, I think Ill have to make my own Anderson connector
The underside of the PCB is shown briefly at 6:44. I do agree, Andersons with #4 would have been much better than the #6, but if you're pulling 175A, should consider moving up to 24V anyway in my opinion.
I did too. An online calculator said a 2oz board would need 200mm wide traces on both sides. Also having seen high power PSUs usually these high current traces are covered in solder for extra current capacity...
Awseome video as always with a great review. May I ask you about that Batrium addon for the android as it looks NEAT and I would love to see how you programmed it.
I took the Batrium UDP listener github.com/Batrium/WatchMonUdpListener (NodeJS) and modified it to support MySQL and capture the particular data points I want. The dashboard on the Android tablet is Grafana. It's pulling data from the MySQL tables on a 2 second refresh.
I just got one of these batteries and I did buy the cable and the charger from them as well. Can you suggest of a cheap battery meter that I can buy? I don't know anything about electric. so so something that can just tell me that I need to charge the battery would be great. I will be using it in a Truck camper to keep the led lights, radio, change cell phone and to run a webasto gas heater during the winter time. And usually I will take it in 4 nights, 3 day trips for snowboarding. Oh I did not replace the original inverter from my truck camper, so the current inverter is for led acid batteries and I understand won't charge this battery fully, but I am planning to change the battery at home and hoping the battery will last me the entire trip every time I go to Vermont. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Any trouble shooting tips for these? I shut mine off, added a 2nd inverter, then turned it on and it made a pop/click sound and now the blue display wont turn on. I checked the 300a fuse and it's good. I measure 2.8v when checking the leads. I disconnected everything. I emailed bigbattery for suggestions. I don't want to void the warranty by doing a complete disassembly but also not looking forward to paying shipping. I used it for 1 year. If I had shorted or switched the wires the BMS and or fuse should've protected it? no burned smells or smoke from it. the pop/click sound it made was similar to a circuit breaker sound.
update on this. I had a call with tech support and they helped me get it going again. They had me remove the top cover then connect a wire between the two huge wires going to the BMS, I think this bypassed the BMS. somehow this reset it and it started up. Initially they thought maybe the cells had run down too low and would need to be trickle charged. individually until it was enough for the BMS to function.
Do you know of and recommend a way to purchase the individual solar panel elements, the 4" by 4" or whatever size they come in individual collector elements that comprise a panel?
You can find them on eBay if you search for "solar cells". If you're thinking of DIY building a solar panel, it's often cheaper just to pick up a used panel on CraigsList or somewhere like that though.
I got two of these a few years ago ask for your recommendation. They worked great until I accidentally unplugged the solar panel. Both batteries drain down one shut off in time. But the other one drained down to like 7 V. And I can't get it back what should I do?
Does it turn back on if you connect a charger? If you have a charger that needs to see 12V before it turns on, you may need to temporarily "jump" it with another 12V power supply (like a bench supply) first to get the BMS turned back on.
Can this be charged with the trucks alternator in parallel with the truck's battery? Like I'm currently doing with a regular automotive battery? Then I'd also like to be able to see the percentage full on the battery but that does not appear to be a feature. Ideally I'd like to see the charge state and be confident it is charged enough to handle the day's work...
At the time I uploaded this video, you could connect 2 in series. BigBattery has later recommended against connecting any number in series. If you're interested in doing so, I would definitely ask them directly first before purchasing and/or before connecting.
@@LithiumSolar Thank you for your reply.. I plan a project to use 2 packs with internal BMS, LiFePo4, 48v connected in series (96v for EV) and will have the capability to re-connect in Parallel 48v for home inverter use during grid outage. Some vloggers say its not advisible to connect them in series but did not explain why. Though, they say its ok in parallel.. Im curious as to the reason, Why not? Seems I need a dedicated pack for each application.
You forgot to re-install the black boots on the battery bolts. The plastic shield covers them so no biggie. Would ever consider replacing all of your battery packs out in the shed with these types of batteries? Can these batteries be placed in parallel to make 24/48vdc battery? What about series to make 370 Ah battery? Thanks
Thanks. I didn't even realize until after the fact when I found a pile of them. They're back on now. And yes, I would love to replace my NMC batteries with LiFePO4. It is extremely contingent on finding someone who is interested in buying the NMC and thus far, it seems nobody in my area is interested in even raw cells... You can series up to two of the 12V batteries. If you need 48V, they have a 24V battery that you can also series two of.
I'm using grafana for the display (free, open-source). To pull data from the Batrium, I'm using the Watchmon UDP Listener that was written by DIY Tech and Repairs located here github.com/Batrium/WatchMonUdpListener
So I've really been getting into LFP recently, and I have a hypothesis for why you didn't pull full capacity. At 13.57V, you were at 3.39V per cell, which is pretty close to fully charged. However, 3.7V per cell is considered fully charged for LFP, or 14.8V for a 4s pack. Big battery recommends 14.6V charging voltage, for 3.65V per cell. I personally charge my 4s LFP packs to 14.4V during use, but 14.8V for testing. Anyway, there is barely any capacity gained by charging to 14.6V vs 13.57V, but we are also looking at barely any capacity missing. 161Ah is only ~5% off from the 170 mark. Try charging all the way to 14.6V cc/cv, and wait for the current to go to just about zero. On a pack this large, 100mA is probably close enough, but when I do my own capacity testing I go all the way to zero. LFP voltage does settle lower and quicker vs NMC, but it shouldn't settle THAT much overnight. Great video, keep up the good work!
@@BenCos2018 I stand corrected! I don't know why I thought 3.7 was max, but after some digging, I agree with you. Thanks for calling me out. Will be adjusting my methods!
At the time I uploaded this video, you could connect 2 in series. BigBattery has later recommended against connecting any number in series. If you're interested in doing so, I would definitely ask them directly first before purchasing and/or before connecting.
I have the BB 48V Luma. Works great, but I noticed something when I pull more than 28A at 48V. The right most decimal point on the Amp display will turn on and lock the display. I can power down and clear, but BB has not been able to tell me what that means. As an EE I use the decimal points to indicate things and I am sure they have too. Anybody have any ideas?
@@LithiumSolar Thank you so much for answering, I appreciate it. I thought I saw somewhere, was researching all day and my eyes are crossed at this point, and thought I saw that the minimum charge rate was 80 amps. Anyway, I bought the MPP 1012LV today and the Big Battery's 170ah 12 volt using your code and saved a cool $100!
Before you connect one or more, whether it be series or parallel, you need to make sure both are at the same state of charge. You can do this by charging each one up up to full individually prior to connecting them.
I did the math and it appears that big battery cost is just $441 per kWh compared to my LION Energy which cost me $700 per kWh. How does Big Battery give such a steep differential on price?
Where are you located. Interested to find out how is solar panel output during winter. I am in Toronto, Ontario weather is holding me back going solar.
I'd love to find a better quality wireless mic. It's just difficult to know what is/isn't decent when looking on Amazon. If you have any recommendations, I'd love to hear!
@@LithiumSolar the problem with lavalier mics is, that they have problems with some frequencies. I helped Andreas Spiess - a well known TH-camr - with his bad Sound... he used a not cheap røde system. You don't have Noise in your Recordings, thats good. I think your mic ist good enough.. you only need good EQing. Is there a better way to communicate with you?
With the LiFePO4 chemistry, once the battery reaches fulll charge and you disconnect the charger, the batteries voltage drops a little. It does not rest at 14.6V. This is completely normal and to be expected with all LiFePO4 batteries.
I have the 48 V husky battery installed in my Navitas club car. At first it worked OK, but now the battery management system has failed. I was able to make contact with someone a big battery and at first they were somewhat helpful, but now they are not responsive. I would expect a better customer service for such a large investment. If you have any advice or a better way to contact the company please let me know. Thanks in advance.
Since the cells are in series and with that difference in the voltage between each cells you would be better off to balance the cells until they are the same voltage then charge the battery to 14.7VDC. Problem being is the BMS will shutoff the battery when one battery reaches its low voltage limit thus shutting down the battery during discharge with more voltage available in the other cells and stop charging when one cell reaches the 14.7VDC leaving other cells with less than a full charge. This is why you didn't get the full 175AH out of the battery. This does not happen when cells/batteries are placed in parallel.
Great video. If you wire these in ser for 48v it should drop the amp pull resulting in lower temp on the cables. I have two of the 48v nmc power walls. Why they put 50amp anderson connecters in the 48v nmc is a little baffeling when the breakers are for aprox 63amps. Last I agree they should have used fuses. Can you do a review on wifi or bluetooth BMS?
"50amp anderson connecters [...] breakers are for aprox 63amps" > The standard accepted rules (NEC) are to derate a breaker to 80% for continuous loads. If you are pulling 50A, you need 50 X 1.25 = 62.5A breaker. That value doesn't exist, so it's rounded up to 63A :) "review on wifi or bluetooth BMS" > Is there any in particular you're looking at?
I agree to the 80 20% rule on all my circuits. If you have any suggestion 14s or lifepo? I have a outback power FP1 power panel. Outback said to me that the FX ser inverters are not compatible with lithium batteries. So ive set the power wall battry to the HVCO and LVCO. Between 42-57 volts charging via globle using the flexmate 80 thru the Mate3. Doing this you lose monitoring.
How long do you figure it could run that small heater? I'm looking for something like that in my semi truck so I do not have to run the truck all night long.
I will run a few more tests at a lower rate. What's interesting is the datasheets for most NMC cells that I've tested specify a standard discharge rate of 0.2C. But as I've been looking at some of the aluminum-cased LiFePO4 cells, they specify the "standard discharge" of 1C. My thoughts were that slightly lower than 0.5C would have yielded full capacity, but with only a 9Ah difference, I surely do agree that a lower load would get me there.
Thanks. I am not familiar enough with marine to comment. My understanding is corrosion is a huge factor there because of the salty air/moisture. This is not sealed or anything like that.
I would like your opinion on purchasing either 2 of these 24v units or 4 of the 12v and series either of them to run a 48v electric outboard. I am currently running that 48v outboard with 4 AGM 110 AH batteries in series. Please let me know your thoughts. Thank you - Ro
Opinions: I paired this with my Inergy Apex that is running NMC batteries on a very conservative charge cycle (The unit is specifically limited to prolong battery life). My thought is that the onboard BMS with the Bigbattery 175ah LifePO4 battery will adapt any charging coming from the Apex unit charge controller sufficiently for this to be a safe pairing, if not necessarily ideal. Thoughts?
Will Prowse had some cells from a BigBattery leak on him. The leak(s) were apparently caused by welds in the casing rubbing holes through two cells. It's too bad you didn't check the condition of the casing welds. RVs bounce and giggle batteries around. Welds that are not smooth can cause a problem. Also, aren't such battery cells best used standing upright? That would mean using this battery with it lying on its back, which should be fine.
I checked my cells after that video and do not have any problems. I'm told that Will had a beta version of the battery. Mine has padding on the sides. Also, BigBattery has confirmed with Lishen that these cells can be on their sides. That is not true for all cells, but according to them, is safe for these particular cells.
@@LithiumSolar I certainly hope BigBattery has taken this potential weld and padding problem VERY seriously. If not, there will inevitably be a BIG PROBLEM (in the thousands) coming with RV-mounted batteries. That said, other than this potential problem, I am VERY impressed with BattleBorn batteries. :-)
This is great work, thanks. Do you know the difference between the Big Battery Power Block & Extreme Power Block? Everything I see the spec's are the same.
I asked them this 2 weeks ago. The extreme version has a different BMS that supports up to 4 in series (the regular version supports 2). They also noted that the extreme version has a different kind of thermal management that includes fire-pellets inside. I don't have any further details on what those are exactly.
@@LithiumSolar Here is their response. "The two main differences....1) the fact that the BMS in this power block allows for running them in series up to 48V 2) the new Extreme battery has "Extreme Thermal Management control" which means that if it were to be caught in a fire or by some miracle of science catch on fire then it has little pellets built in that will automatically extinguish that fire. But yes outside of that it is 100% the same specs. The batteries can be put in parallel and series with each other the same as before".
160Ah?! That is not good. Is that shunt calibrated? I pulled over 170Ah. And those cells typically pull full capacity. Hmmm I wonder why you go that figure. The cables should not change the results that much.
I need to re-test this battery. What C rate did you test yours at that you saw 170Ah? Mine was a 0.41C test. I was questioning the shunt as well, which is why I re-tested the RoyPow battery with a Victron shunt and the result was pretty much the same.
@@LithiumSolar I just received one of these Friday supposed to be the 202 amp version according to the link I used to purchase it. It arrived with absolutely no paperwork documentation whatsoever. I've ran this thing to five recharge cycles and let it sit it 14-4 for about a half hour longer each time. It wasn't until the 5th recharge that I finally got a blinking light on l1 on the BMS. Been laying the battery just sit for the last 24 hours and it's lost 1.1 volts all by itself. I suspect I have a bad cell. I still have no idea if this is the 170 or 202 amp. But my rough estimates from how many amps I was taking out and the time it took the BMS to turn off I'm basically in the sub-170 range I will know more later when I get a real shunt to test it.
@@LithiumSolar The current is passed through a shunt to be able to measure the voltage across the known shunt resistance. And from that shunt voltage drop you can calculate the current. So it gives a true measurement of the actual current passing through the shunt regardless of where the remaining voltage is dropped, whether it's in the load or in the wires makes no difference.
@@mcg6762 I beg to differ. There's a length of wire between the battery terminal and the shunt and he noted the wires got warm for example. That's some electrical energy being converted to heat there and that can't be measured by the shunt. That's why shunts must be as close to the battery terminals as much as possible and cables must be thick enough to match the maximum amps been drawn.
@@adon8672 The current is the same regardless of where it's measured. You can't have more current closer to the battery than further away from it. Obviously...
@@adon8672 You're confusing power with current. If the test wanted to measure Wh instead of Ah, then you would need to measure both current and voltage. And the voltage would need to be measured at the battery terminals to be accurate.
@12:30 Whenever someone says to me, "it's stupid to buy a battery, you can build one yourself!" I reply, "you can also buy a cow, slaughter it and make hamburger for much cheaper per pound than you can even buy at the grocer, but yet I bet you ate at McDonald's this week, amiright?" Whether or not to build it yourself comes down to your priorities in 3 things: (1) your personal tastes and interests, (2) skillsets and tools you acquire, and (3) what is most meaningful to you in life. There are a TON of things you can "do yourself", but you only have the time and resources for so much.
Also, the fact that youtubers like prowzzzzz say that you can build it yourself but if you do something wrong you can burn your house down (manipulative)......
Wonder why you didn't state how long it took to use up 170 amp hours? Rolls lead acid have 468 ah and cost less. Never said there was any advantage to the big batteries.
@@harrypalmer5603 Everyone is going to have a different heater so I don't think it's accurate to say "a heater can last 8 minutes" as maybe your heater pulls 1000W and mine pulls 1500W. You can calculate this yourself easily with the formula Capacity x Voltage x Efficiency / Power, for example 170Ah x 12.8V x 0.80 / 970W gives you approximately 1.79 hours.
McLovin' LithiumSolar's Review of the Big Battery 170AH Battery. Loved Will Prowse's review & also appreciate LithiumSolar's work as well. How awesome is that- (2) GREAT reviewers & add in a dash of the ultimate DIYer- David Poz, and- it's a trifecta of lithium goodness!!! Golly, it makes feel all warm inside... Ok, even I can't take all of this 'seasonal goodness', but...Gotta do my part!
Funny, but I think those lock washers on the fuse are direct descendants of your review of the much larger NMC batteries you tested a few months ago... That hot spot was deeply concerning, causing you to do several adjustments & trialing other solutions...And, I think at the end of the day, it was merely a loose connection! I agree, many people DON'T want to build a big battery bank- this is a GREAT solution for those who don't.
I got 4 of the 24v versions for my rv. So far they are outstanding
can you tell how much of the 4.4k (did your get that one?) is actually usable?
OffGrid MGTOW homestead did you connect them in series to make a higher voltage pack? Thanks
i am not in the market for any batteries personally, but have been loving these videos lol. I've been binge watching them the peast couple days now
I just checked on line, backorder but love the 10 year warranty... looks like battleborn has finally met its match..
It was backordered when I purchased mine too. Ordered on Nov 4, delivered Nov 21 - not that bad though. I'm going to have to get me a Battleborn one of these days. I keep hearing that's pretty much top of the line for LiFePO4.
The nerd community thanks you for your service! Perfect review, down to the point with relevant information, no fluff..
yess
watching these are fun
Thanks Man. I dig your DIY stuff and it is always nice to see what the market is providing and what sort of quality exists in those products.
Another fantastic rundown Mike!
Thanks!
I like the Batrium addon you've got going there....
Killer review as always!
Thanks. That's how I made a good use out of a Watchmon that I accidentally broke half of, but we won't get in to that... ;)
Thanks for sharing the fact that you bought this with your own money, hopefully at random. Great review
I received some comments in the past that people think I only make videos because of being paid, so I try to always be completely upfront and honest with whether or not an particular item was sponsored or purchased. In this case, I am trying to learn all I can about LiFePO4 as that's the direction I'm moving :) I love taking apart pretty much anything I can and learning how it works - batteries being particularly interesting/fascinating.
Great video! I really wanted to see the inside of this battery. Thank you. I am impressed with the quality of the battery. Thanks again!!
Good to know BigBattery is doing their part with supplying quality product. Thank you for the test and review! How many actual minutes did your heater operate before the inverter shut down?
I believe Big Battery uses Lishen cells. Very good review. Thanks for taking your time to do it.
Yep, they are Lishens. I didn't know that at the time but learned after :)
@@LithiumSolar I think Lishen makes a good cell too. The Big Battery is impressive. Nice quality and innovative build. I am even warming to the Anderson plug. Quick and easy disconnecdt when needed.
121720/1448h PST. Thanks for the new presentation. This new LiFePo4 battery unit from BIG.BATTERY is a perfect and well designed unit, than many I have seen. The printed battery series connector and the balance modular unit seems to be quite unique, that too, I have not seen before. Well done, BigBattery people. The other salient feature that attracted the attention is the clear acrylic cover placed on the battery PCB and the rubber padding on the metal outer cover, which’d hold the Acrylic board in place from rattling. Very intelligent design, indeed.
What is the display unit, if you may, please, shed some light on that device. Thanks once again. Stay safe. 73s...
I agree, very well built! The display is an Samsung Galaxy Tab A. I wrote some custom code to pull data from the Batrium, write it to a MySQL database, then threw together a quick dashboard using Grafana that pulls the data from MySQL and displays on the tablet. It works great for capacity testing!
121820/0357h PST. That’s fantastic. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe. 73s...
Nice review. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
My battery gurus
@@AlexGonzalez-lv2oq Is this a meeting of the minds? All we need is a lil Will in da haus- and, it would be a MEETING!!! 66% ain't bad tho.
Good review, i like it when reviewers actually open things up.
Awesome review! I wish other tech stuffs (that I am interested in) has detailed and honest review of similar quality. Thanks for your dedication and spending on cool batteries. Please go for a Patreon campaign so that we can be a part of it.
Thanks! Is there anything battery-related you're interested in seeing? I love seeing how these things are built, what's inside, and how they work. I'm happy to buy things here and there that I can make a video out of.
@@LithiumSolar On AMAZON, there is an Eco-Worthy 12 Volt 20 AMP Lithium Iron Phosphate battery for $109.95. I'm interested in that Battery as a build for a suitcase Sized Remote Power Supply for my Ham Radio setup.
The shunt isn't affected by the losses in the cable. Since its measuring amps, they are going to be equal through the whole circuit, and the shunt doesn't care if the energy/heat is being dissipated in the inverter or the wires. I think the test came in a bit lower than rated because of the high draw rate. If it was a 34A load (0.2C) instead of 80 or so amps you would have likely gotten the full 170Ah.
Yes. Cabling loss does not affect the amp hours. It does however cause a voltage loss, hence a loss of power (measured in watts), and loss of energy (measured in kWh). And a lower current drawn might have improved the amp hour. We do not know for sure, without knowing what at what current rating the 170 Ah was specified at.
You guys are right, I was mixing up Ah and Wh. The amps would be unaffected. I will be running another test at a lower C rate and have no doubts it will hit 170Ah.
Build quality looks good.
The Ah capacity measurement is not affected by cable drop, just the Wh capacity is affected.
Another explanation for the lower-than-rated Ah measurement result could be that the battery was NOT BALANCED.
Yeah I was thinking of Wh when I said that. Also, a lower C rate would probably get closer to the rated value.
Nice review! You mentioned that you didn't want to pull too much through that thin wire, why on earth would they sell 6awg for their batteries?
I wish you and projectfarm had video production teams, so yall could do more nerd stuff and not have to focus on the horror that is editing. great work as always.
I think it looks nice, and I always wonder what was inside stuff like that. Hope you stay warm out there.
I've been watching videos on making your own system. I was going to do that for my small camper and have it portable for my electric boat. After watching this video I'm deciding that what I was going to make is done much better here with this unit. Thanks for the video. I'll be ordering one of these this summer. I just need to find out which anderson connectors I need to connect both the charger and camper to the thing. I think it's the parallel one. I'll have to make sure.
I got the same battery today. So far I'm happy with it. The low voltage on the BMS seemed a little low to me. 9.2 volts showing before it shut down. I always thought 9.8 was the correct voltage . I can live with 9.2.
My battery should be here tomorrow. how to i check the capacity and state of charge of the cells without taking it apart?
Charge it up to full, then you can discharge it through your inverter with something like this amzn.to/34lBzFe instead of the Batrium shunt I used here. They're cheap and fairly accurate. There's no need to disassemble anything. I just wanted to see what was inside and how it was put together.
@@LithiumSolar Thank you. I hope it gets here today. Great video. I new to a lot of this but, love it. I am converting my RV to lithium form 200 ah AGM . Moving everything closer together. will have two Big Batteries someday. Thanks
Can someone explain why a fuse is better than circuit breaker? I'm just someone that prefer longevity over consumables.
In the last battery I tested, they had a double pole circuit breaker where they had wired both poles in parallel to double the rating of the breaker. I had an issue with a loose connection and the breaker catching when I tried to turn it off. Now obviously, one could use a better quality breaker to solve both of those points, but there aren't many DC-rated breakers of reasonable size for 200A or higher.
@@LithiumSolar gotcha, so its basically availability and cost on their end. I did see your last video and wasn't a fan of how they did that breaker setup.
@@glossyfpv1155 A properly sized breaker would add about $100 to the unit cost. And the unit would be larger & heavier. Fuses cost about $10 so I'd prefer a fuse and just buy a spare (like Bussmann/Eaton/Cooper or Littlefuse, no chinese crap).
How do a M.P.P.T connect to this battery at the same time connected to an inverter?
Love your videos, very informative keep it up.
Thank you!
What is the charging current for this? and what is the best model battery charge for this unit?
Can you do a video of charging the Owl with the MPP 1012LV and the lithium settings?
I’d like to know if you have any information on building a second battery bank? I have a 24 V bank and need to add another one, not sure how to do it or how to supply the energy to it.
Why do you want a fuse over the breaker?
For a battery with a continuous rating of 175A, you would need a 218.75A breaker (250A). The cost and physical size of a proper DC-rated breaker at that ampacity and high enough voltage to allow several of these in series make the fuse a FAR better option.
Can you charge this battery with a solar panel as well, and if yes, where is the solar input on the box?
This is just a battery. You'll need a solar charge controller, which can then be connected to the battery terminals. OR purchase an inverter that contains an MPPT built in, such as MPP Solar. The inverter I used for testing here is just an inverter - no charging functionality.
@@LithiumSolar I was wondering the same. There is only one place to connect the Anderson plug. Is that one connection for both an input from a charge controller, and the output? Maybe using the parallel cable set from their website?
I've had my eye on Big Batt. Enjoyed the tear down and test. The series connections on the PCB seamed pretty light. I wanted to see the underside of that PCB board. I guess there are buss bars in that board? Can you tell the size of the bars? I wish they had the premade Anderson connections with large gauge wires. If I buy, I think Ill have to make my own Anderson connector
The underside of the PCB is shown briefly at 6:44. I do agree, Andersons with #4 would have been much better than the #6, but if you're pulling 175A, should consider moving up to 24V anyway in my opinion.
I would question that the PCB connecting the individual batteries could handle 300Amps...
I did too. An online calculator said a 2oz board would need 200mm wide traces on both sides. Also having seen high power PSUs usually these high current traces are covered in solder for extra current capacity...
Awseome video as always with a great review.
May I ask you about that Batrium addon for the android as it looks NEAT and I would love to see how you programmed it.
I took the Batrium UDP listener github.com/Batrium/WatchMonUdpListener (NodeJS) and modified it to support MySQL and capture the particular data points I want. The dashboard on the Android tablet is Grafana. It's pulling data from the MySQL tables on a 2 second refresh.
Is the temp sensor only for high temp or is it also for low temp shutoff and does it work?
It has a low temperature cutoff of -5C.
I just got one of these batteries and I did buy the cable and the charger from them as well. Can you suggest of a cheap battery meter that I can buy? I don't know anything about electric. so so something that can just tell me that I need to charge the battery would be great. I will be using it in a Truck camper to keep the led lights, radio, change cell phone and to run a webasto gas heater during the winter time. And usually I will take it in 4 nights, 3 day trips for snowboarding. Oh I did not replace the original inverter from my truck camper, so the current inverter is for led acid batteries and I understand won't charge this battery fully, but I am planning to change the battery at home and hoping the battery will last me the entire trip every time I go to Vermont. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Any trouble shooting tips for these? I shut mine off, added a 2nd inverter, then turned it on and it made a pop/click sound and now the blue display wont turn on. I checked the 300a fuse and it's good. I measure 2.8v when checking the leads. I disconnected everything. I emailed bigbattery for suggestions. I don't want to void the warranty by doing a complete disassembly but also not looking forward to paying shipping. I used it for 1 year. If I had shorted or switched the wires the BMS and or fuse should've protected it? no burned smells or smoke from it. the pop/click sound it made was similar to a circuit breaker sound.
update on this. I had a call with tech support and they helped me get it going again. They had me remove the top cover then connect a wire between the two huge wires going to the BMS, I think this bypassed the BMS. somehow this reset it and it started up. Initially they thought maybe the cells had run down too low and would need to be trickle charged. individually until it was enough for the BMS to function.
Really hard to read the white numbers on the light green background
Yeah I keep meaning to make the font bigger and forget... I'll get it done for the next video. Thanks for the reminder :)
Do you know of and recommend a way to purchase the individual solar panel elements, the 4" by 4" or whatever size they come in individual collector elements that comprise a panel?
You can find them on eBay if you search for "solar cells". If you're thinking of DIY building a solar panel, it's often cheaper just to pick up a used panel on CraigsList or somewhere like that though.
@@LithiumSolar Ok I will check those places thanks.
I got two of these a few years ago ask for your recommendation. They worked great until I accidentally unplugged the solar panel. Both batteries drain down one shut off in time. But the other one drained down to like 7 V. And I can't get it back what should I do?
Does it turn back on if you connect a charger? If you have a charger that needs to see 12V before it turns on, you may need to temporarily "jump" it with another 12V power supply (like a bench supply) first to get the BMS turned back on.
Can this be charged with the trucks alternator in parallel with the truck's battery? Like I'm currently doing with a regular automotive battery? Then I'd also like to be able to see the percentage full on the battery but that does not appear to be a feature. Ideally I'd like to see the charge state and be confident it is charged enough to handle the day's work...
The link for the "Anderson connector" is not working. Do you have another link? I have the battery in the shopping cart but need the connector.
Thanks for uploading..
Can you connect those in series to make a 48v pack like a normal lead acid battery?
At the time I uploaded this video, you could connect 2 in series. BigBattery has later recommended against connecting any number in series. If you're interested in doing so, I would definitely ask them directly first before purchasing and/or before connecting.
@@LithiumSolar Thank you for your reply..
I plan a project to use 2 packs with internal BMS, LiFePo4, 48v connected in series (96v for EV) and will have the capability to re-connect in Parallel 48v for home inverter use during grid outage.
Some vloggers say its not advisible to connect them in series but did not explain why. Though, they say its ok in parallel..
Im curious as to the reason, Why not?
Seems I need a dedicated pack for each application.
Another well thought out review....But again the big battery product did not meet it's advertised rating even at a .5 discharge level.
You forgot to re-install the black boots on the battery bolts. The plastic shield covers them so no biggie. Would ever consider replacing all of your battery packs out in the shed with these types of batteries? Can these batteries be placed in parallel to make 24/48vdc battery? What about series to make 370 Ah battery? Thanks
Thanks. I didn't even realize until after the fact when I found a pile of them. They're back on now. And yes, I would love to replace my NMC batteries with LiFePO4. It is extremely contingent on finding someone who is interested in buying the NMC and thus far, it seems nobody in my area is interested in even raw cells... You can series up to two of the 12V batteries. If you need 48V, they have a 24V battery that you can also series two of.
Good morning, question, what app are you using on the tablet for the batrium bms to display that information?
I'm using grafana for the display (free, open-source). To pull data from the Batrium, I'm using the Watchmon UDP Listener that was written by DIY Tech and Repairs located here github.com/Batrium/WatchMonUdpListener
So I've really been getting into LFP recently, and I have a hypothesis for why you didn't pull full capacity. At 13.57V, you were at 3.39V per cell, which is pretty close to fully charged. However, 3.7V per cell is considered fully charged for LFP, or 14.8V for a 4s pack. Big battery recommends 14.6V charging voltage, for 3.65V per cell. I personally charge my 4s LFP packs to 14.4V during use, but 14.8V for testing.
Anyway, there is barely any capacity gained by charging to 14.6V vs 13.57V, but we are also looking at barely any capacity missing. 161Ah is only ~5% off from the 170 mark.
Try charging all the way to 14.6V cc/cv, and wait for the current to go to just about zero. On a pack this large, 100mA is probably close enough, but when I do my own capacity testing I go all the way to zero.
LFP voltage does settle lower and quicker vs NMC, but it shouldn't settle THAT much overnight.
Great video, keep up the good work!
3.65 volts is the max charge voltage on most lifepo4 cells btw
@@BenCos2018 I stand corrected! I don't know why I thought 3.7 was max, but after some digging, I agree with you. Thanks for calling me out. Will be adjusting my methods!
@@Pifreek no worries
I auctuly used to think it was 3.7 for a while till I read about 10 lifepo4 cell datasheets lol
What does it read when it's fully charged is it 13.4? tia
Oops, fount it, thank you!!
14.6V would be full charge for this battery. LiFePO4 will drop though once the charger shuts off - it won't sit at 14.6V.
Is there a low temp cut-off? I don't recall you saying anything.
Yes. It has a low temperature cutoff of -5C.
For how long did the heater run?
Can you connect those in series to make a 48v pack like a normal lead acid battery?
Thanks for uploading this video.
At the time I uploaded this video, you could connect 2 in series. BigBattery has later recommended against connecting any number in series. If you're interested in doing so, I would definitely ask them directly first before purchasing and/or before connecting.
@@LithiumSolar I would appreciate the support if you can get BigBattery to give a technical reason on why not..
Thanks appreciate what your doing.
I have the BB 48V Luma. Works great, but I noticed something when I pull more than 28A at 48V. The right most decimal point on the Amp display will turn on and lock the display. I can power down and clear, but BB has not been able to tell me what that means. As an EE I use the decimal points to indicate things and I am sure they have too. Anybody have any ideas?
Can you charge this with the 40 amps provided by the MPP 1012 LV?
The max charge rate of this battery (now called the OWL) is 175A. So yes, it can easily handle a 40A charge :)
@@LithiumSolar Thank you so much for answering, I appreciate it. I thought I saw somewhere, was researching all day and my eyes are crossed at this point, and thought I saw that the minimum charge rate was 80 amps. Anyway, I bought the MPP 1012LV today and the Big Battery's 170ah 12 volt using your code and saved a cool $100!
You did not want the battery post caps replaced?
I put them back on
A little pricey for the battery but a nice review none the less.
If I buy 2 24v and connect in series do I need to balance them.ty for answering.
Before you connect one or more, whether it be series or parallel, you need to make sure both are at the same state of charge. You can do this by charging each one up up to full individually prior to connecting them.
@@LithiumSolar but after some usage in series will they unbalance.
I did the math and it appears that big battery cost is just $441 per kWh compared to my LION Energy which cost me $700 per kWh. How does Big Battery give such a steep differential on price?
Where are you located. Interested to find out how is solar panel output during winter. I am in Toronto, Ontario weather is holding me back going solar.
Pennsylvania, USA - a little south of you it sounds :)
Solar output is very poor right now. My panels are mostly angled West due to the shape of my property and tree lines.
@@LithiumSolar Thanks and love your content.
Check into bifacial panels. The back side of the panels will pick up reflected rays from the snow in the winter for us folks in the north.
@@offgridcabinlivingandprojects Thank you will look them up for sure.
Nice video.
If you want to increace your voice sound quality try to use an EQ at around 800Hz, 1.5Q and -12 till -15dB
I'd love to find a better quality wireless mic. It's just difficult to know what is/isn't decent when looking on Amazon. If you have any recommendations, I'd love to hear!
@@LithiumSolar the problem with lavalier mics is, that they have problems with some frequencies.
I helped Andreas Spiess - a well known TH-camr - with his bad Sound... he used a not cheap røde system.
You don't have Noise in your Recordings, thats good. I think your mic ist good enough.. you only need good EQing.
Is there a better way to communicate with you?
Thanks
Are you sure it is ok for those sells to be mounted on their sides?
Most battery is 100 amp, and a price usually $800-900 ,this is a very very good price
Thank you for your video. I bought one. So fat, so good.
Currently 2/2021 there seems to be a issue with how the batteries should be stacked . Your opinion ?? Up down sideways......
if you need to charge these battery's to 14.6V , why do all the video"s show 13.1 as the current charge? what exactly does this mean?
With the LiFePO4 chemistry, once the battery reaches fulll charge and you disconnect the charger, the batteries voltage drops a little. It does not rest at 14.6V. This is completely normal and to be expected with all LiFePO4 batteries.
I have the 48 V husky battery installed in my Navitas club car. At first it worked OK, but now the battery management system has failed. I was able to make contact with someone a big battery and at first they were somewhat helpful, but now they are not responsive. I would expect a better customer service for such a large investment. If you have any advice or a better way to contact the company please let me know. Thanks in advance.
Since the cells are in series and with that difference in the voltage between each cells you would be better off to balance the cells until they are the same voltage then charge the battery to 14.7VDC.
Problem being is the BMS will shutoff the battery when one battery reaches its low voltage limit thus shutting down the battery during discharge with more voltage available in the other cells and stop charging when one cell reaches the 14.7VDC leaving other cells with less than a full charge. This is why you didn't get the full 175AH out of the battery.
This does not happen when cells/batteries are placed in parallel.
Trying to decide between this one and the Sok 206amh for my travel trailer. Any thoughts??
Are battery Evo any good?
Great video. If you wire these in ser for 48v it should drop the amp pull resulting in lower temp on the cables. I have two of the 48v nmc power walls. Why they put 50amp anderson connecters in the 48v nmc is a little baffeling when the breakers are for aprox 63amps. Last I agree they should have used fuses. Can you do a review on wifi or bluetooth BMS?
"50amp anderson connecters [...] breakers are for aprox 63amps" > The standard accepted rules (NEC) are to derate a breaker to 80% for continuous loads. If you are pulling 50A, you need 50 X 1.25 = 62.5A breaker. That value doesn't exist, so it's rounded up to 63A :)
"review on wifi or bluetooth BMS" > Is there any in particular you're looking at?
I agree to the 80 20% rule on all my circuits. If you have any suggestion 14s or lifepo? I have a outback power FP1 power panel. Outback said to me that the FX ser inverters are not compatible with lithium batteries. So ive set the power wall battry to the HVCO and LVCO.
Between 42-57 volts charging via globle using the flexmate 80 thru the Mate3. Doing this you lose monitoring.
How long do you figure it could run that small heater? I'm looking for something like that in my semi truck so I do not have to run the truck all night long.
Is that the highest you can only charge it up to 13.5 V ? I would think you'd be able to get up to 14.4 V making that 3.6 V per cell.
Also a lower amp load will be able to get the last few amp hrs out of it
I will run a few more tests at a lower rate. What's interesting is the datasheets for most NMC cells that I've tested specify a standard discharge rate of 0.2C. But as I've been looking at some of the aluminum-cased LiFePO4 cells, they specify the "standard discharge" of 1C. My thoughts were that slightly lower than 0.5C would have yielded full capacity, but with only a 9Ah difference, I surely do agree that a lower load would get me there.
@@LithiumSolar I also wonder if there is a run-in period like 18650s where you need to cycle them a few times before you get full capacity
Very detailed review. Thank you. Would this battery be suitable for marine applications?
Thanks. I am not familiar enough with marine to comment. My understanding is corrosion is a huge factor there because of the salty air/moisture. This is not sealed or anything like that.
How do I charge it?
I would like your opinion on purchasing either 2 of these 24v units or 4 of the 12v and series either of them to run a 48v electric outboard. I am currently running that 48v outboard with 4 AGM 110 AH batteries in series. Please let me know your thoughts. Thank you - Ro
How long did the test run for before the low voltage shut off?
Do you think it can be shipped to UK?
What would be shipping charge?
Thanks.
I'm not sure, you would have to check with Big Battery. I'm not selling these nor do I work for them.
Can you run them in series
Yes. You can run two of the 12V in series or two of the 24V in series. They even sell a pre-made series cable for them.
@@LithiumSolar niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice thanks for the reply and info
Opinions: I paired this with my Inergy Apex that is running NMC batteries on a very conservative charge cycle (The unit is specifically limited to prolong battery life). My thought is that the onboard BMS with the Bigbattery 175ah LifePO4 battery will adapt any charging coming from the Apex unit charge controller sufficiently for this to be a safe pairing, if not necessarily ideal.
Thoughts?
I plan on doing van life. Would 12 or 24 volt system be better for that?
Will Prowse had some cells from a BigBattery leak on him. The leak(s) were apparently caused by welds in the casing rubbing holes through two cells. It's too bad you didn't check the condition of the casing welds. RVs bounce and giggle batteries around. Welds that are not smooth can cause a problem. Also, aren't such battery cells best used standing upright? That would mean using this battery with it lying on its back, which should be fine.
I checked my cells after that video and do not have any problems. I'm told that Will had a beta version of the battery. Mine has padding on the sides. Also, BigBattery has confirmed with Lishen that these cells can be on their sides. That is not true for all cells, but according to them, is safe for these particular cells.
@@LithiumSolar I certainly hope BigBattery has taken this potential weld and padding problem VERY seriously. If not, there will inevitably be a BIG PROBLEM (in the thousands) coming with RV-mounted batteries. That said, other than this potential problem, I am VERY impressed with BattleBorn batteries. :-)
So how many hours to run 200watts?
12.8V Nominal * 170Ah = 2176Wh / 200W Load = 10.8 Hours. This of course assumes a complete cycle 100% to 0%.
This is great work, thanks. Do you know the difference between the Big Battery Power Block & Extreme Power Block? Everything I see the spec's are the same.
I asked them this 2 weeks ago. The extreme version has a different BMS that supports up to 4 in series (the regular version supports 2). They also noted that the extreme version has a different kind of thermal management that includes fire-pellets inside. I don't have any further details on what those are exactly.
@@LithiumSolar Here is their response.
"The two main differences....1) the fact that the BMS in this power block allows for running them in series up to 48V 2) the new Extreme battery has "Extreme Thermal Management control" which means that if it were to be caught in a fire or by some miracle of science catch on fire then it has little pellets built in that will automatically extinguish that fire. But yes outside of that it is 100% the same specs. The batteries can be put in parallel and series with each other the same as before".
@@hatenlebron Ok yes, that's the same response I received.
@@hatenlebron It in a stainless steel enclosure instead of regular metal
160Ah?! That is not good. Is that shunt calibrated? I pulled over 170Ah. And those cells typically pull full capacity. Hmmm I wonder why you go that figure. The cables should not change the results that much.
I need to re-test this battery. What C rate did you test yours at that you saw 170Ah? Mine was a 0.41C test. I was questioning the shunt as well, which is why I re-tested the RoyPow battery with a Victron shunt and the result was pretty much the same.
@@LithiumSolar
I just received one of these Friday supposed to be the 202 amp version according to the link I used to purchase it.
It arrived with absolutely no paperwork documentation whatsoever.
I've ran this thing to five recharge cycles and let it sit it 14-4 for about a half hour longer each time.
It wasn't until the 5th recharge that I finally got a blinking light on l1 on the BMS.
Been laying the battery just sit for the last 24 hours and it's lost 1.1 volts all by itself.
I suspect I have a bad cell.
I still have no idea if this is the 170 or 202 amp.
But my rough estimates from how many amps I was taking out and the time it took the BMS to turn off I'm basically in the sub-170 range I will know more later when I get a real shunt to test it.
Jesus, that was thorough.
great review
Voltage drop across the wires does not affect your Ah-measurement.
Hmm... Wouldn't the shunt be seeing a lower voltage though because the sense wire as at the inverter? Or maybe that only impacts the kWh reading?
@@LithiumSolar The current is passed through a shunt to be able to measure the voltage across the known shunt resistance. And from that shunt voltage drop you can calculate the current. So it gives a true measurement of the actual current passing through the shunt regardless of where the remaining voltage is dropped, whether it's in the load or in the wires makes no difference.
@@mcg6762 I beg to differ. There's a length of wire between the battery terminal and the shunt and he noted the wires got warm for example. That's some electrical energy being converted to heat there and that can't be measured by the shunt. That's why shunts must be as close to the battery terminals as much as possible and cables must be thick enough to match the maximum amps been drawn.
@@adon8672 The current is the same regardless of where it's measured. You can't have more current closer to the battery than further away from it. Obviously...
@@adon8672 You're confusing power with current. If the test wanted to measure Wh instead of Ah, then you would need to measure both current and voltage. And the voltage would need to be measured at the battery terminals to be accurate.
@12:30 Whenever someone says to me, "it's stupid to buy a battery, you can build one yourself!" I reply, "you can also buy a cow, slaughter it and make hamburger for much cheaper per pound than you can even buy at the grocer, but yet I bet you ate at McDonald's this week, amiright?" Whether or not to build it yourself comes down to your priorities in 3 things: (1) your personal tastes and interests, (2) skillsets and tools you acquire, and (3) what is most meaningful to you in life. There are a TON of things you can "do yourself", but you only have the time and resources for so much.
Also, the fact that youtubers like prowzzzzz say that you can build it yourself but if you do something wrong you can burn your house down (manipulative)......
How does the capacity change after several cycles?
What does "NMC" mean??
NMC is a specific chemistry of lithium ion battery, LiNiMnCoO2.
These Big Battery's seem well put together but I'm not sold on the numbers they rate them at.
Wonder why you didn't state how long it took to use up 170 amp hours?
Rolls lead acid have 468 ah and cost less. Never said there was any advantage to the big batteries.
Because the time it takes is entirely based on your load. It would be a useless statistic for me to report on.
Looks good, you didn't tell the time of the draw on the battery. Would be dandy on my sailboat.
Start: 12:29pm, End: 2:33pm, Duration: 2hrs 4min :)
@@LithiumSolar Thanks
You don't say how long your 800 watt heater ran for?
I don't keep track of time during the tests as the statistic is completely meaningless.
@@LithiumSolar I think you should to show folks how long they can things, so a heater on high would last what 8 min? 1500 watts
@@harrypalmer5603 Everyone is going to have a different heater so I don't think it's accurate to say "a heater can last 8 minutes" as maybe your heater pulls 1000W and mine pulls 1500W. You can calculate this yourself easily with the formula Capacity x Voltage x Efficiency / Power, for example 170Ah x 12.8V x 0.80 / 970W gives you approximately 1.79 hours.
@@LithiumSolar so true, Loved the video
Very nice that’s for the video!
A misprint huh, riiiiiiiiiight.
Grate Video Thank You
what can we really use with this? what' the purpose of this?
Great video. Nice one